Gelled ecobiological make-up remover composition

Abstract

The invention relates to an aqueous topical make-up remover composition which advantageously is ecobiological, having a dynamic viscosity, measured at 25 degrees centigrade, greater than 2000 cP, preferably greater than 3000 cP, advantageously greater than 4000 cP, even more advantageously greater than 5000 cP, said composition comprising: - at least one surfactant; - at least one citric acid ester. The invention also relates to the use of the composition, in particular in a method for removing make-up or for cleansing the skin, lips and / or skin appendages.

Description

[0001] TITLE OF THE INVENTION: MAKE-UP REMOVER COMPOSITION

[0002] ECO-BIOLOGICAL GEL

[0003] FIELD OF INVENTION

[0004] The present invention relates to the field of cosmetic care, and more particularly to aqueous gel-based makeup-removing compositions. More specifically, the invention concerns a composition for topical application and its use, in particular in a process for removing makeup, cleansing the skin, lips and / or hair, eyes and eyelids.

[0005] STATE OF THE ART

[0006] Makeup removers and facial cleansers come in the form of oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions, biphasic products, aqueous micellar lotions and micellar gels, and anhydrous or essentially anhydrous oil-based products. It is generally accepted that the deepest makeup removal is achieved using W / O emulsions, biphasic products, and anhydrous oil-based products, because the oil phase is readily available to dissolve the various oils present on the skin or from makeup. Indeed, in the case of oil-in-water (O / W) emulsions, the oil phase is the internal phase and therefore not readily available to dissolve oils and lipophilic impurities. However, while very effective, oil-based makeup removers are not always preferred by consumers due to the oily film they inevitably leave on the skin.This drawback can be avoided by using micellar waters and gels, which are considered very practical because no rinsing is necessary, provided the formula is well-tolerated by the skin and eyes. However, micellar waters, which have a viscosity similar to that of water, must be applied using a cloth or wipe. Micellar waters tend to saturate this cloth or wipe, resulting in considerable product loss during application. Micellar gels and syndets with low concentrations of surfactants do not present these drawbacks because, firstly, they can be applied directly with the fingers, which also reduces waste; secondly, even when using a makeup removal cloth or wipe, micellar gels and syndets remain on the surface of the fabric due to their viscosity, allowing for more complete and responsible use of the product.Despite this advantage, these products remain uncommon because this formulation does not provide the deep makeup removal comparable to that achieved with micellar water. Therefore, there is a clear need to develop cleansing gels that are gentle on the skin, well-tolerated, and effective in cleansing the skin, while also ensuring a more comprehensive and eco-friendly use of the product.

[0007] DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0008] The Applicant has observed that the invention provides a solution to all the technical problems defined above. In particular, the Applicant has observed that, surprisingly, several citric acid esters significantly improve makeup removal achieved using aqueous micellar compositions with a suitable dynamic viscosity, especially when measured at 25 degrees Celsius and a pressure of 1 ATM exceeding 2000 cP, making this dosage form suitable for use as a makeup remover instead of micellar waters.

[0009] Thus, the invention relates to an aqueous topical makeup remover composition, advantageously ecobiological, having a dynamic viscosity, measured at 25 degrees Celsius and at a pressure of 1 ATM, greater than 2000 cP, preferably greater than 3000 cP, advantageously greater than 4000 cP, even more advantageously greater than 5000 cP, said composition comprising:

[0010] - at least one surfactant; and

[0011] - at least one citric acid ester.

[0012] In the context of the invention, the term "ecobiological approach" refers to the particular approach initiated and developed by the inventor which combines skin biology and ecology to help the skin live according to its natural biology, in the long term.

[0013] Within the context of this invention, the terms "ecobiological composition," "ecobiological compound," "ecobiological ingredient," "ecobiological active ingredient," and "ecobiological excipient" respectively refer to a composition, compound, ingredient, or excipient that is respectful of the individual, their interactions with the world, and the planet. In particular, they refer to a composition, compound, ingredient, active ingredient, or excipient that is respectful of the living cell communities that constitute the skin (i.e., the skin microbiota, keratinocytes, sebocytes, fibroblasts, etc.) which constantly interact with each other and with their environment.

[0014] In the context of the invention, "O / W emulsifier" means a compound having emulsifying properties that allow for the production of oil-in-water emulsions.

[0015] In the context of the invention, "oil-in-water emulsifier" means a compound having emulsifying properties that allow for the production of water-in-oil emulsions.

[0016] In the context of this invention, the terms "biphase composition," "biphasic composition," "biphasic treatment," "biphasic composition," "biphase," or "triphasic" refer to a composition consisting of two phases, or, where applicable, three continuous and immiscible phases. Advantageously, in the case of biphasic compositions, these phases are an oily phase and an aqueous phase. Biphasic compositions can form emulsions when shaken, but they differ from conventional emulsions in that, at rest, they undergo a phase separation, after which the two phases—advantageously the oily phase and the aqueous phase—remain separate, so that the two phases are again continuous and immiscible.

[0017] In the context of the invention, "molecular weight (Mw)" refers to the average molecular weight by weight (Mw or Molecular Weight) of a compound or polymer.

[0018] In the context of the invention, "composition for cutaneous application" or "for topical use" means a composition compatible with application to the skin, mucous membranes, hair and / or scalp, preferably human skin.

[0019] For the purposes of this invention, "transparent composition" means a composition that transmits at least 40% of light at a wavelength of 750 nm without scattering it; that is, a composition in which the diffraction angle of light is less than 5°, ideally around 0°. Several methods for measuring light transmission, using, for example, a spectrophotometer, are known to those skilled in the art.

[0020] For the purposes of this invention, "HLB" means hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (or HLB), which is a universally recognized measure of the hydrophilicity of surfactants. The scale ranges from 0 to 20, with HLB being calculated according to Griffin's formula:

[0021] HLB = 1 / 5 x ((molecular mass of the hydrophilic part) / (total molecular mass)) x 100

[0022] Lower values ​​correspond to more lipophilic molecules, higher values ​​to more hydrophilic molecules. HLB values ​​can be determined experimentally using methods known to those skilled in the art. It should be noted that all HLB values ​​given in this application are approximate experimental values ​​that may vary slightly with changes in the composition of a given surfactant.

[0023] According to the invention, the dynamic viscosity of the composition can be measured using methods known to those skilled in the art. For example, the dynamic viscosity can be measured with a Brookfield DV-II+ viscometer, mobile 3, at room temperature (25 °C) and a pressure of 1 ATM.

[0024] For the purposes of the invention, the terms "active substance" and "active substance composition" are used interchangeably, are applied to surfactants, and refer to the mass proportion of a raw material corresponding to the population of surfactants / surfactant species listed under the collective name assigned by the INCI.

[0025] For the purposes of this invention, "jelly" or "micellar jelly" means a composition consisting of an aqueous phase, preferably consisting exclusively of an aqueous phase and therefore devoid of an oily phase, having a dynamic viscosity, measured at 25 degrees Celsius and at a pressure of 1 ATM, greater than 2000 cP, preferably greater than 3000 cP, advantageously greater than 4000 cP, even more advantageously greater than 5000 cP.

[0026] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, in this composition, at least one surfactant represents strictly less than 10% by weight of the active ingredient composition, advantageously strictly less than 6% by weight of the active ingredient composition, and said composition comprises strictly more than 70% by weight of water relative to the weight of the composition, advantageously strictly more than 80% by weight of water. A micellar jelly can therefore be distinguished from a cleansing gel, which may have comparable viscosities but contains a higher proportion of surfactants relative to the water content. A jelly as defined in the invention may consist of a plurality of gelled phases.

[0027] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, at least one surfactant is included in the aqueous phase.

[0028] For the purposes of this invention, "essentially devoid of an oil phase" means a composition containing strictly less than 3% oil phase by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, advantageously strictly less than 2%, and preferably no oil phase at all. Limited amounts of oil phase may be provided by the ingredients of the composition, for example, surfactants. For the purposes of this invention, the citric acid esters according to the invention, which are lipophilic, should not be considered as constituents of the oil phase as such.

[0029] For the purposes of this invention, "listed preservative" means a substance added to topical products to prevent the growth of microorganisms (bacteria, fungi, molds) and approved for this use by Regulation (EC) No 1223 / 2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 30 November 2009 on cosmetic products (recast) (OJ L 342, 22.12.2009, p. 59-209).

[0030] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention has the following additional technical characteristics, taken alone or in combination:

[0031] -the composition according to the invention is transparent;

[0032] -the composition according to the invention is environmentally friendly, advantageously, it is free from non-biodegradable compounds and / or compounds whose method of obtaining presents adverse impacts on the environment;

[0033] - at least one citric acid ester is represented by the following chemical formula (I): [Chem 1] in which Ri, R2 and R3 independently represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C30 hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, or a C3-C30 cyclic hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated, in which at least one of Ri, R2 and R3 is not a hydrogen atom, and R4 represents a hydrogen atom or an R CO- group in which R'4 represents a Ci-Cs hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, or a C3-C8 cyclic hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated;

[0034] -at least one citric acid ester according to the invention is chosen from the group consisting of triethyl citrate, tributyl citrate, trioctyl citrate, triethyl acetyl citrate, tributyl acetyl citrate, tri(2-ethylhexyl) acetyl citrate and mixtures thereof;

[0035] -at least one ester of citric acid is triethyl citrate. By way of non-limiting examples: triethyl citrate may correspond to the cosmetic raw material CITROFOL™ AI marketed by Jungbunzlauer and corresponding to the INCI designation triethyl citrate; tributyl acetyl citrate may correspond to the cosmetic raw material CITROFOL™ BI marketed by Jungbunzlauer and corresponding to the INCI designation Tributyl O-acetylcitrate; triethyl acetyl citrate may correspond to the cosmetic raw material CITROFOL™ Ail marketed by Jungbunzlauer and corresponding to the INCI designation Triethyl O-acetylcitrate;

[0036] - at least one citric acid ester according to the invention, advantageously triethyl citrate, represents between 0.1 and 10% by weight of the composition, advantageously between 1% and 5%;

[0037] - the composition according to the invention is free of acrylates and / or polyethoxylated surfactants;

[0038] - the composition according to the invention consists of a plurality of gelled phases (example, bigel, trigel);

[0039] - the composition according to the invention comprises a fatty phase, representing strictly less than 3% by weight of the composition, advantageously strictly less than 2%;

[0040] - the composition according to the invention is devoid of a fatty phase;

[0041] -the composition according to the invention has a dynamic viscosity, measured at 25 degrees centigrade and at a pressure of 1 ATM, of less than 25000 cP, preferably less than 20000 cP, advantageously less than 15000 cP, preferably less than 12000 cP;

[0042] - the composition according to the invention has a dynamic viscosity, measured at 25 degrees centigrade and at a pressure of 1 ATM, preferably greater than 3000 cP, advantageously greater than 4000 cP, even more advantageously greater than 5000 cP, in particular greater than 6000 cP;

[0043] - the composition according to the invention comprises at least one aqueous phase gelling agent, advantageously selected from the group consisting of xanthan gum, Chondrus crispus extract or carrageenan, gellan gum, Caesalpinia spinosa gum, xanthan gum, dehydroxanthan gum, cellulose gum, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, sclerotium gum, microcrystalline cellulose, Amorphophallus konjac gum, acacia gum from Senegal, Ceratonia siliqua gum, pectin, Cyamopsis tetragonoloba gum, agar, alginates, pectin, gum arabic, tragacanth, karaya gum and ghatti gum, carboxymethylcellulose and mixtures thereof, advantageously selected from the group consisting of sclerotium gum and xanthan gum;

[0044] -at least one aqueous phase gelling agent represents between 0.01 and 5% by weight of the composition according to the invention, advantageously between 0.1% and 2%;

[0045] -at least one surfactant included in the composition according to the invention has an HLB value strictly greater than 8, advantageously strictly greater than 10;

[0046] - at least one surfactant included in the composition according to the invention is chosen from the group consisting of polyglycerol esters, fatty acid and sugar esters, alkyl polyglucosides, amphoteric surfactants and mixtures thereof;

[0047] - the composition according to the invention contains at least two surfactants, advantageously chosen from polyglycerol esters and alkyl polyglucosides;

[0048] - The polyglycerol ester according to the invention comprises 3 to 10 glycerols, advantageously of

[0049] 5 to 6 glycerols and / or 1 to 3 saturated or unsaturated fatty acids;

[0050] - the fatty acids according to the invention are advantageously saturated fatty acids, preferably chosen from the group consisting of lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, capric acid, caprylic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid and mixtures thereof;

[0051] - the polyglycerol ester according to the invention is selected from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-2 caprate, polyglyceryl-2 laurate, polyglyceryl-3 laurate, polyglyceryl-4 laurate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, polyglyceryl-4 oleate, polyglyceryl-5 laurate, polyglyceryl-5 oleate, polyglyceryl-5 dioleate, polyglyceryl-6 caprylate, polyglyceryl-

[0052] 6 tricaprylate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-6 caprylate, polyglyceryl-4 caprate, polyglyceryl-10 myristate, polyglyceryl-10 isostearate, polyglyceryl-10 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-10 oleate and polyglyceryl-6-isostearate;

[0053] - the alkylpolyglucoside according to the invention is chosen from the group consisting of (C12-C20)alkylpolyglucoside, (C8-C16)alkylpolyglucoside, (C8-C10)alkylpolyglucoside, (C12-C16)alkylpolyglucoside, (C12-C14)alkylpolyglucoside, (Cl2-C14)alkylpolyglucoside and mixtures thereof;

[0054] -1' alkylpolyglucoside according to the invention is selected from the group consisting of coco-glucoside, decyl glucoside-lauryl glucoside, caprylyl / capryl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside, butyl glucoside, caprylyl glucoside, cetearyl glucoside, hexadecyl glucoside, isostearyl glucoside, ethyl glucoside, myristyl glucoside, octadecyl D-glucoside, octyldodecyl glucoside, undecyl glucoside, and mixtures thereof. By way of non-limiting examples: coco-glucoside may correspond to the cosmetic raw material marketed under the trade name Plantacare 818™ of BASF or BergaSoft CG 50 / MB of Berg + Schmidt or Sucranov 818UP of Jarchem; or to the cosmetic raw material marketed under the trade name Lamesoft PO 65 and corresponding to the INCI designations aqua / water / eau & coco-glucoside & glyceryl oleate & citric acid & tocopherol & hydrogenated palm glycerides citrate;Decyl glucoside may correspond to the cosmetic raw material marketed under the trade name BASF or BergaSoft CG 50 / MB from Berg + Schmidt or Sucranov 818UP from Jarchem; lauryl glucoside may correspond to the cosmetic raw material marketed under the trade name Plantacare 1200 from BASF or BergaSoft LG 50 / MB from Berg + Schmidt or Sucranov 1200 UP from Jarchem; and caprylyl / capryl glucoside may correspond to the cosmetic raw material marketed under the trade name BergaSoft CCG 70 / MB from Berg + Schmidt, Sucranov 810 UP from Jarchem or PLANTACARE 810 UP from BASF;

[0055] - the composition according to the invention contains at least one polyglycerol ester and at least one amphoteric surfactant;

[0056] - The amphoteric surfactants according to the invention are selected from the group consisting of alkyl(C8-C20)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)amphoacetates, alkyl(C8-C20)amphodiacetates and mixtures thereof; preferably from among alkyl(C8-C20)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines and mixtures thereof, advantageously sodium cocoamphoacetate and disodium cocoamphodiacetate

[0057] - the composition according to the invention contains polyglyceryl-6 caprylate, polyglyceryl-4 caprate and sodium cocoamphoacetate. By way of non-limiting examples: the polyglycerol ester according to the invention may correspond to the raw material TEGOSOLVE™ 90 MB marketed by Evonik Nutrition & Care GmbH and corresponding to the INCI designations POLYGLYCERYL-6 CAPRYLATE & POLYGLYCERYL-4 CAPRATE & AQUA / WATER / EAU;

[0058] - the amphoteric surfactant may correspond to the raw material REWOTERIC™ AM C MB marketed by the company Evonik Nutrition & Care GmbH and corresponding to the INCI designations AQUA / WATER / EAU & SODIUM COCOAMPHO ACETATE;

[0059] - polyglyceryl-6 caprylate, polyglyceryl-4 caprate and sodium cocoamphoacetate cocoamphoacetate present in the composition according to the invention individually represent strictly less than 4% by weight of the composition according to the invention in active matter, advantageously strictly less than 2%;

[0060] -the composition according to the invention contains at least two alkylpolyglucosides;

[0061] - At least one surfactant according to the invention represents strictly less than 10% by weight of the composition according to the invention in active matter, advantageously strictly less than 6% 5

[0062] - the composition according to the invention comprises strictly more than 70% water by weight relative to the weight of the composition, advantageously strictly more than 80%, even more advantageously strictly more than 85%;

[0063] - the composition according to the invention is free from any listed preservative;

[0064] - the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one alkanediol, advantageously chosen from 1,2-alkanediols or 1,3-alkanediols or mixtures thereof;

[0065] - At least one alkanediol is selected from the group consisting of compounds corresponding to the following INCI designations: propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, caprylyl glycol, 1,2-decanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, 1,2-heptanediol, and mixtures thereof. By way of non-limiting examples, the alkanediols to be used in the compositions according to the invention may correspond to: EVO-100™ marketed by ARCHER DANIELS MIDLAND COMPANY and corresponding to the INCI designation propylene glycol; ZEMEA™ marketed by DUPONT-TATE & LYLE BIOPRODUCTS and corresponding to the INCI designation 1,2-propanediol; DUB DIOL™ marketed by the company STEARINERIE DUBOIS and corresponding to the INCI designation 2-methyl- 1,3 -propanediol;

[0066] THydrolite-5™, Hydrolite-6™, Hydrolite-7™ GREEN, Hydrolite-8™ and SymClariol 344028™ marketed by the company SYMRISE and corresponding respectively to the INCI designations 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-heptanediol, caprylyl glycol and 1,2-decanediol;

[0067] - at least one alkanediol, advantageously 1,3-propanediol, represents between 0.001% and 2% by total weight of the composition according to the invention, advantageously between 0.01% and 1%;

[0068] - the composition according to the invention further comprises p-hydroxyacetophenone;

[0069] - p-hydroxyacetophenone may correspond to the SYMSAVE H raw material marketed by the company SYMRISE GMBH and corresponding to the INCI designation hydroxyacetophenone;

[0070] - p-hydroxyacetophenone represents between 0.001% and 2% by total weight of the composition according to the invention, advantageously between 0.01% and 1%;

[0071] - the composition according to the invention further comprises sodium levulinate and / or sodium anisate;

[0072] - sodium levulinate and / or sodium anisate represent overall between 0.001% and 2% by total weight of the composition according to the invention, advantageously between 0.01% and 1%;

[0073] - sodium levulinate and / or sodium anisate may correspond to the raw material dermosoft™ 1388 ECO marketed by the company EVONIK GMBH and corresponding to the INCI designation aqua & sodium levulinate & sodium anisate.

[0074] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention further comprises additives such as those commonly used in the cosmetics industry, including antioxidants, complexing agents, solvents, perfumes, fillers, electrolytes, odor absorbers, and colorants. The choice of these additives, as well as their concentrations, must be determined in such a way that they do not alter the properties and benefits sought for the composition according to the invention.

[0075] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is a makeup-removing composition and / or a cleansing and / or care composition for keratinous surfaces, preferably the skin, mucous membranes and / or hair appendages (i.e. hair, eyelashes, body hair and nails).

[0076] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is presented in a pharmaceutical form suitable for topical application; advantageously, it contains a physiologically acceptable medium. Advantageously, the composition according to the invention is a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition.

[0077] The invention also relates to the topical use of a composition as defined above.

[0078] The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for removing makeup and / or cleansing the skin, mucous membranes, hair, eyes and / or eyelids comprising the topical application of a composition as defined above.

[0079] The manner in which the invention can be implemented and the resulting advantages will be more clearly shown in the following implementation examples, which are given by way of illustration and not limitation.

[0080] The following examples form an integral part of the invention and any feature which appears to be new in relation to the prior art is claimed as such and as a general means.

[0081] DESCRIPTION OF FIGURES

[0082] Figure 1 shows the in vivo evaluation on 10 volunteers of the makeup-removing efficacy of 4 different compositions, i.e., according to the invention and according to the prior art.

[0083] EXAMPLES OF ACHIEVEMENTS

[0084] Example I - Formulation of a gelled makeup-removing cosmetic composition according to the invention

[0085] A composition according to the invention is described in Table 1.

[0086] The percentages indicated correspond to the weight of the product indicated in relation to the total weight of the composition.

[0087] [Table 1]

[0088] The composition of Example I exhibits a dynamic viscosity of 6600 cP (as measured with Brookfield RVDV-II+ - M3V6 apparatus).

[0089] Example II - Formulation of a gelled makeup-removing cosmetic composition according to the invention

[0090] A composition according to the invention is described in Table 2.

[0091] The percentages indicated correspond to the weight of the product indicated in relation to the total weight of the composition.

[0092] [Table 2]

[0093] The composition of Example II exhibits a dynamic viscosity of 11000 cP (as measured with Brookfield RVDV-II+ - M3V6 apparatus).

[0094] Example III - Formulation of a gelled makeup-removing cosmetic composition according to the invention

[0095] A composition according to the invention is described in Table 3.

[0096] The percentages indicated correspond to the weight of the product indicated in relation to the total weight of the composition.

[0097] [Table 3]

[0098] The composition of Example III exhibits a dynamic viscosity of >5000 cP (as measured with Brookfield RVDV-II+ - M3V6 apparatus).

[0099] Example IV - comparative trials - in vivo makeup removal efficacy

[0100] IV-1 Objective of the study

[0101] The aim of the study is to compare the in vivo makeup-removing power of different compositions.

[0102] IV-2 Materials and methods

[0103] IV-2.1 Equipment - Pasteur plastic pipettes;

[0104] - "Demak'up" cotton pads;

[0105] - Finger cots;

[0106] - Waterproof Mascara: "GEMEY MAYBELLINE - Great Lash Waterproof, very black, 26 x 500"

[0107] - Chromameter® CR400 (Konica Minolta),

[0108] - CLS software (Monaderm),

[0109] - Excel software (Microsoft 365).

[0110] IV-2.2 Inclusion of volunteers

[0111] Inclusion criteria

[0112] • Sex: female;

[0113] • Age: between 18 and 75 years old;

[0114] • Subjects with all skin types on the inside of the forearms, phototype I to IV, hairless and with very few moles.

[0115] General

[0116] • Healthy subjects;

[0117] • The subjects gave their free, informed and written consent;

[0118] • Subjects willing to adhere to the study protocol and procedure.

[0119] Exclusion criteria

[0120] • Pregnant women, breastfeeding women, or women planning to become pregnant during the study;

[0121] • Skin pathology on the study areas;

[0122] • Use of a topical or systemic treatment in the preceding weeks that may interfere with the evaluation of the efficacy of the product under investigation;

[0123] • Subject who took anti-inflammatory drugs or corticosteroids during the previous week of the study, or retinoids (Roaccutane) during the previous 3 weeks of the study by systemic administration;

[0124] • Excessive exposure to the sun or UV rays during the previous month;

[0125] • Subject enrolled in another clinical trial during the study period (on the same areas studied);

[0126] • A large tattoo that does not leave enough bare skin for measurements.

[0127] - 11 subjects included

[0128] - 11 subjects completing the study

[0129] - 10 subjects analyzed: one subject was excluded from the analysis due to outliers.

[0130] IV-2.3 Test and Measurement Method To:

[0131] - Subjects come to the laboratory without having applied any moisturizing product to their forearms in the days preceding the study (cleansers are not included),

[0132] - They are informed of the objectives of the trial, the procedure, and the risks of the study.

[0133] - they sign the consent form,

[0134] - The technician verifies the inclusion and exclusion criteria,

[0135] - Determination of 5 measurement zones (using a 3x3cm template) on the forearms (to avoid aberrant measurements, avoid as much as possible: hair, moles, veins...)

[0136] - measurements of the baseline skin color state on the 5 zones at three different points (TO), using the Chromameter™ CR400 device,

[0137] - application of 20ml of waterproof mascara to the areas,

[0138] - allow to air dry (5 min).

[0139] Ti:

[0140] - new color measurements at three different points on each zone (Tl) using the Chromameter™ CR400 device.

[0141] For the lotion:

[0142] - application of 2mL of product onto one side of a cotton ball,

[0143] - Remove makeup by 6 passes with the first side, then 6 more passes with the other side of the cotton pad (12 passes in total),

[0144] - air dry.

[0145] T2:

[0146] - new color measurements at three different points on each zone (T2) using the Chromameter™ CR400 device,

[0147] - the subjects sign the discharge form.

[0148] Ambient conditions during the acclimatization period and measures:

[0149] - ambient temperature: 20-22°C;

[0150] - relative humidity: 40-60%.

[0151] IV-2.4 Tested Formulas

[0152] The following formulas were tested (see Table 4); the percentages indicated correspond to the weight of the product specified relative to the total weight of the composition. Formula 2 corresponds to a composition according to the invention, and formulas 1, 3, and 4 correspond to compositions according to the prior art.

[0153] [Table 4]

[0154] III-2.5 Statistical analyses

[0155] Calculation formulas:

[0156] Percentage variations from the average (A%) are calculated using the following formulas:

[0157] A% = l - [ (T2-T0) / (T1-T0)l

[0158] A% = % without makeup

[0159] To: Measurement of the initial skin color before makeup;

[0160] Ti: Measurement after makeup: waterproof mascara;

[0161] T2: Measurement after 12 cotton passes;

[0162] Statistical analyses:

[0163] 16

[0164] REPLACEMENT SHEET (RULE 26) The principle of the Student's t-test consists of setting a null hypothesis (HO) of no difference between the effect before and after treatment (= 0) and an alternative hypothesis H1 (our research hypothesis) of a difference before and after treatment ( <> 0).

[0165] We then determine the probability p of observing a difference before and after treatment at least as large as that which was observed if the null hypothesis is true.

[0166] If p < 5%, the null hypothesis is rejected. Then the alternative hypothesis H1 of a significant difference before and after treatment is accepted.

[0167] If p > 5%, the null hypothesis is accepted. The data did not show a significant difference before and after treatment.

[0168] A Student's t-test was performed to compare the effects produced with an untreated area.

[0169] III-3 Results and conclusions

[0170] The test results are shown in graph form in figure 1.

[0171] The inclusion of a citric acid ester, in particular triethyl citrate, in a non-viscous micellar composition (i.e., having the same viscosity as water) comprising at least one surfactant, has a modest positive impact on the effectiveness of makeup removal (% of makeup removed) which increases from 41% to 55%, with an improvement of 33.9% (Figure 1; formula 3 and formula 4).

[0172] Surprisingly, the same test, carried out on similar formulas (in particular, including the same concentrations of the same surfactants and other main excipients) but with a dynamic viscosity measured at 25 degrees Celsius and at a pressure of 1 ATM greater than 2000 cP, shows an improvement in makeup removal efficiency of 90.8% as a result of the addition of a citric acid ester, in particular triethyl citrate (% of makeup removed = from 21.8% to 41.6%; Figure 1; formula 1 and formula 2).

[0173] In conclusion, adding a citric acid ester, particularly triethyl citrate, to a composition containing at least one surfactant and exhibiting a dynamic viscosity measured at 25 degrees Celsius and a pressure of 1 ATM greater than 2000 cP, allows (i) improved makeup removal efficacy compared to the same composition without citric acid ester and (ii) achieving the makeup removal efficacy obtained for the non-viscose formula in the absence of citric acid ester. This is particularly advantageous because effective makeup removal can be achieved using formulas that are less prone to absorption into the carrier than micellar waters, ultimately allowing for more complete and therefore more eco-friendly use of the product.

Claims

DEMANDS

1. A topical aqueous makeup-removing composition, advantageously ecobiological, having a dynamic viscosity, measured at 25 degrees Celsius and at a pressure of 1 ATM, greater than 2000 cP, preferably greater than 3000 cP, advantageously greater than 4000 cP, even more advantageously greater than 5000 cP, said composition comprising: - at least one surfactant; and -at least one citric acid ester.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that at least one citric acid ester is selected from the group consisting of triethyl citrate, tributyl citrate, trioctyl citrate, triethyl acetyl citrate, tributyl acetyl citrate, tri(2-ethylhexyl) acetyl citrate and mixtures thereof.

3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that at least one citric acid ester is triethyl citrate.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that at least one citric acid ester represents between 0.1 and 10% by weight of the composition, advantageously between 1% and 5% by weight of the composition.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition is free of acrylates and polyethoxylated surfactants.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition is essentially devoid of fat phase.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it has a dynamic viscosity, measured at 25 degrees centigrade and at a pressure of 1 ATM greater than 2000 cP, advantageously greater than 4000 cP.

8. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises at least one aqueous-phase gelling agent, advantageously selected from the group consisting of xanthan gum, Chondrus crispus extract or carrageenan, gellan gum, Caesalpinia spinosa gum, xanthan gum, dehydroxanthan gum, cellulose gum, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, sclerotium gum, microcrystalline cellulose, Amorphophallus konjac gum, acacia senegal gum, Ceratonia siliqua gum, pectin, Cyamopsis tetragonoloba gum, agar, alginates, pectin, gum arabic, tragacanth, karaya gum and ghatti gum, carboxymethylcellulose and mixtures thereof, advantageously selected from the group consisting of sclerotium gum and xanthan gum.

9. Composition according to claim 8, characterized in that at least one aqueous phase gelling agent represents between 0.01 and 5% by weight of the composition, advantageously between 0.1% and 2%.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that at least one surfactant is selected from the group consisting of polyglycerol esters, fatty acid and sugar esters, alkyl polyglucosides, amphoteric surfactants and mixtures thereof.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that at least one surfactant has an HLB value greater than 8, advantageously greater than 10.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains at least two surfactants, advantageously selected from polyglycerol esters and alkyl polyglucosides.

13. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that it contains at least one polyglycerol ester and an amphoteric surfactant.

14. Composition according to claim 12 or 13, characterized in that it contains polyglyceryl-6 caprylate, polyglyceryl-4 caprate and sodium cocoamphoacetate.

15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that at least one surfactant represents strictly less than 10% by weight of the active ingredient composition, advantageously strictly less than 6%.

16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises water representing strictly more than 70% by weight of the composition, advantageously strictly more than 80%.

17. Cosmetic method for removing makeup, cleansing the skin, mucous membranes, hair, eyes and / or eyelids, comprising the topical application of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16.

Images