Method for using radio frequency and cosmetic composition

By applying current pulses at frequencies of 100 kHz to 100 MHz to the target skin area in combination with non-polymer cosmetic surfactants, the problems of uneven heat energy and insufficient surfactant penetration in home use of radio frequency beauty devices are solved, achieving efficient and safe skin beauty effects.

CN121311277APending Publication Date: 2026-01-09LOREAL SA
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Patent Information

Application Number
CN202480037602.6
Authority / Receiving Office
CN · China
Patent Type
Applications(China)
Current Assignee / Owner
Priority Date
2023-06-08
Filing Date
2024-04-25
Publication Date
2026-01-09

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing radiofrequency beauty devices pose a risk of uneven heat transfer during home use, potentially leading to skin burns, and insufficient penetration of active agents, affecting the beauty effect.

Method used

The method combines current pulses with a frequency range of 100 kHz to 100 MHz with non-polymer cosmetic surfactants with a molecular weight of 100 Da to 700 Da, and applies them to the target area of ​​the skin through a bipolar radiofrequency beauty device to promote the penetration of the surfactants and collagen remodeling.

Benefits of technology

It significantly improves the penetration and cosmetic effects of active agents, reduces skin treatment time, is suitable for home and professional use, and reduces the risk of side effects.

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Abstract

The present invention relates to a method for the non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment of skin, the method comprising: a. Applying a cosmetic composition to a target area of skin, the cosmetic composition comprising a non-polymeric cosmetic active agent having a molecular weight in the range of 100 Da to 700 Da, b. Exposing the target area of skin to a series of current pulses, the frequency of the pulses ranges from 100 kHz to 100 MHz, and the current is supplied by a bipolar radiofrequency cosmetic device having at least one electrode and at least one counter electrode.
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Description

[0001] This invention relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic method and cosmetic composition for improving skin appearance using radio frequency-based technology.

[0002] More generally, beauty products are those defined as in European Regulation 1223 / 2009 of 30 November 2009 of the European Parliament and the Council on beauty products. Background Technology

[0003] Non-ablation devices designed for home use are designed to deliver heat to the skin to produce biological effects, such as stimulating the natural production of collagen, lifting and firming the skin, and reducing wrinkles. To be suitable for home use, the heat delivered to the skin must be limited to ensure good tolerance and avoid burns.

[0004] Radio frequency (RF) is an electromagnetic wave, not a photon emission process. It is an alternating current: changes in polarity (+ / -) on the skin surface cause molecular vibrations, which generate heat that depends on the current intensity and time, and follows Ohm's law: E = I × R × t.

[0005] Radio frequency (RF) current is sinusoidal current. By general definition, the frequency range of the current is between 3 kHz and 300 GHz; in beauty applications, most listed instruments have current frequencies between 100 kHz and 10 MHz.

[0006] The complexity of radio frequency (RF) technology relates to the various ways energy is delivered. These methods can be external and, depending on the transmission mode, can be categorized as monopolar or bipolar RF, with bipolar being more common. Current circulates between two electrodes, responsible for heating the tissue; this is the basis of an effective thermal effect. The depth of the thermal effect is equal to half the distance between the electrodes. Therefore, increasing the number of electrodes follows this logic of increasing surface area and processing depth, but the names tripolar, quadpolar, or octpolar are essentially marketing terms.

[0007] Energy transfer is limited, as is the pulse duration, to avoid any thermal damage to the epidermis, and the risk of burns or even scarring. This observation helps explain the operating mode of these “external bipolar” technologies, where the rotational motion is repeated for a variable length of time on the skin surface depending on the device. However, most importantly, limiting the energy transfer results only in alterations to extracellular mediators containing collagen and elastin.

[0008] Therefore, monopolar and bipolar radiofrequency are described as subcutaneous (superficial) radiofrequency, i.e., suitable for external and superficial treatments of the skin. The effectiveness of these treatments is limited by the risk of skin burns at temperatures above 42°C.

[0009] To overcome this epidermal risk issue, an alternative approach has been proposed: segmented radiofrequency, which still delivers energy externally, uses probes to increase pulse duration and decrease energy levels, while simultaneously achieving controlled coagulation in both superficial and dermal tissues. The active electrode is segmented into multiple microelectrodes to distribute thermal energy more evenly across several small areas than in a strictly bipolar case, which would multiply the heat density concentrated at a single point, as sensed in a bipolar electrode at the point of contact with the skin.

[0010] Finally, intra-tissue radiofrequency, or HiFR (High Intensity Focused Radiofrequency), has recently been developed. This term doesn't refer to focusing in the "optical" sense, but rather to deep, localized action. The goal involves, for example, using microneedles to deliver all the energy deep into the tissue. This can be achieved using segmented, intra-tissue, multi-layered high-intensity radiofrequency via microneedles. This technique allows for the delivery of more energy because the microneedles can overcome the skin barrier. The thermal effect at the needle tip can reach 65°.

[0011] Therefore, high-intensity radiofrequency (HIFU) is also known as subcutaneous radiofrequency or deep radiofrequency. It can be administered to tighten tissue or improve the appearance of scars and stretch marks.

[0012] Radio frequency technology is known to be used in skin care or skin rejuvenation applications, as described in documents CN 113317870, CN 107998509, CN110141355, WO 2021243403, WO 2016162234, WO 201687289, and CN 111616794.

[0013] Document WO 201540049 discloses a non-invasive treatment device for heating an internal region of skin using radio frequency current, wherein a treatment substance is disposed on an outer surface region of the skin adjacent to the internal region. This treatment substance is selected to be transportable through the skin under the influence of an electric field and is also selected to increase electrical transport in the internal region. The device includes: - A first processing electrode, which is configured and arranged to allow current to pass through the outer surface of the skin and through the internal region; - A radio frequency generator, which is configured and arranged such that during use, the current generated by the radio frequency generator is applied to the outer surface of the skin through a first processing electrode and through the inner region; - A first field electrode, which is configured and arranged to provide an electric field in the skin during use in order to deliver the treatment material toward the internal region; - An electric field generator configured and arranged such that, during use, a DC electric field generated by the electric field generator is applied across the first field electrode to the processed material, at least some of the processed material being transported from the outer surface region to the inner region by means of the electric field; and -Control unit.

[0014] Document CN 108452436 discloses a high-frequency radio frequency micro-vibration device. The device includes a main control circuit board, a motor, an eccentric gear, and a stainless steel output head. Current flows through the stainless steel output head to the face, then across the face, chest, arms, and palms before reaching a stainless steel button. It then returns to the high-frequency radio frequency micro-vibration device to form a closed loop, promoting better absorption of cosmetics.

[0015] Document CN 112007279 discloses a portable anti-wrinkle device having (a) a housing including a grip portion and a head portion; (b) at least one radio frequency contact disposed on the head; and (c) a capsule retainer adapted to hold a capsule of cosmetic composition.

[0016] Document FR 3014321 discloses a module for processing products, particularly cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical products, intended for application to a user's body. This processing module is configured to activate the product, for example, using radio frequency, and is arranged to be detachably attached to a support defined by a container holding the product. This processing module allows the product to be activated, particularly in situ, i.e., activated on the user's body in this case, especially to optimize the effectiveness of the applied product and / or improve its permeability into the user's body.

[0017] Document JP 2011194175 discloses a beauty device comprising an RF (radio frequency) transmitter and a pair of RF electrodes. A control device transmits control signals to the RF transmitter. The RF transmitter includes, for example, an inverter that converts direct current (DC) from a battery (not shown) into high-frequency current (AC). The RF transmitter supplies the high-frequency current, converted based on the control signals, to the RF electrodes. When the RF electrodes are placed against the skin, the skin becomes a resistor connected between the RF electrodes. This electrically closes the circuit with the RF transmitter and RF electrodes, allowing the high-frequency current to flow through the circuit. Because the skin is in the path of the circuit, particularly between the two RF electrodes, the radio frequency current can be transmitted to the skin. Electrical energy is consumed in the skin as heat, which acts as a resistor, thereby heating the skin to promote the diffusion of cosmetic agents within the skin.

[0018] There remains a need to benefit from a method for improving the effectiveness of radiofrequency devices in cosmetic procedures.

[0019] The aim is to provide multiple advantages for non-ablative and / or high-frequency microcurrent RF technologies by improving the mode of action, particularly by selecting formulations with properties for coupling active agents, for which the RF signal will also act as a skin penetration enhancer.

[0020] Another objective of this invention is to identify types of activators that can enhance or even create synergistic effects with the biological effects of collagen remodeling directly induced by RF signals. Summary of the Invention

[0021] This invention addresses this need through a method for non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment of the skin, the method comprising: A cosmetic composition comprising a nonpolymeric cosmetic active agent with a molecular weight ranging from 100 Da to 700 Da is applied to a target area of ​​the skin. The target area of ​​the skin is exposed to a series of electrical pulses with a frequency ranging from 100 kHz to 100 MHz, and the current is supplied by a bipolar radiofrequency beauty device having at least one electrode and at least one counter electrode.

[0022] The combined action of pulses in the frequency range of 100 kHz to 100 MHz with cosmetic compositions containing non-polymer cosmetic active agents has a significant effect on promoting the permeability of such active agents in order to increase their effectiveness, especially when the composition is applied and RF treatment is used simultaneously, compared with topical application of the same composition alone, or with RF treatment alone (i.e., without cosmetic composition).

[0023] This involves using a radio frequency generator to deliver heat to the skin, especially within the range suitable for both professional and home use (e.g., a non-invasive application head, limited heating of the skin surface, with sensors and on / off switches to ensure good tolerability / no conventional side effects).

[0024] This method can be designed for home or professional use, such as in a beauty salon.

[0025] In particular, these steps take very little time. Therefore, this method is ideal for everyday household use, such as during lunch breaks.

[0026] The method can be repeated several times, preferably several times a month, wherein the time interval between two applications is preferably from 1 day to 15 days, more preferably from 1 day to 7 days, and even more preferably from 1 day to 2 days.

[0027] Preferably, the equivalent diameter of the target area is less than or equal to 1 cm.

[0028] Preferably, the equivalent diameter of the target area is greater than 0.1 mm, or even greater than 0.5 mm, especially greater than 1 mm.

[0029] cosmetic compositions Step b) can be performed after step a). Preferably, step b) and step a) are performed simultaneously.

[0030] Step a) The cosmetic composition may be applied only once to the same target area.

[0031] As a variation, step a) applying the cosmetic composition may be repeated several times on the same target area, for example, between 2 and 200 times.

[0032] Application step a) can be performed 1 to 5 times per day on the same target area.

[0033] The cosmetic composition can be applied at least once a day for at least 6 days, preferably at least twice a day for at least 7 days, especially for at least 14 days, even better for at least 21 days, even better for at least 28 days, even better for at least 35 days, 42 days, 49 days or 56 days.

[0034] The cosmetic composition contains at least one non-polymer cosmetic active agent with a molecular weight ranging from 100 Da to 700 Da, particularly selected from the following list.

[0035] Preferred active agents with molecular weights ranging from 100 Da to 700 Da 2,4-Diamino-6-piperidinylpyrimidine-3-oxide, or “minoxidil”, described in US-4,139,619 and US-4,596,812. Armenias or 2,4-diaminopyrimidine 3-oxide, as described in WO 96 / 09048 Xanthine derivatives, such as diethylaminoethyl theophylline hydrochloride and caffeine.

[0036] In particular, the compositions according to the invention contain an active agent with a molecular weight ranging from 100 Da to 700 Da, which, by weight, ranges from 0.01% to 10%, preferably from 0.1% to 5%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0037] Additional surfactants and excipients The cosmetic composition may contain one or more additional active agents and / or one or more adjuvants commonly used in the cosmetics industry.

[0038] The cosmetic composition further comprises a physiologically acceptable medium. A medium is considered physiologically acceptable when it does not cause any unacceptable stinging, tightness, or discomfort to the user.

[0039] Galen formulation The compositions used according to the present invention can be provided in any galen formulation commonly used in the cosmetic field.

[0040] More specifically, this composition is intended for topical application. Preferably, such a composition is not intended to be rinsed off after application.

[0041] The compositions according to the invention are preferably intended for application to the skin.

[0042] Preferably, the skin is the skin of the face and / or body, especially the skin of the face and / or hands, more preferably the skin of the face, and more specifically the skin of the forehead and / or the sides of the nose and / or the chin, the lip commissure and the eye commissure.

[0043] The composition may alternatively be in the form of a facial and / or body care or cosmetic product, and may be packaged, for example, in the form of a bottled cream or tubed liquid or a pump bottle or dropper bottle.

[0044] Radio frequency pulse Step b) can only be executed once on the same target area.

[0045] As a variant, step b) can be repeated several times on the same target area, especially several times a month.

[0046] Step b) can be repeated to cover the entire uneven surface of the skin.

[0047] Exposure step b) can be performed 1 to 20 times over a two-month period.

[0048] The time interval between the two repetitions of step b) can range from 1 day to 15 days, especially 1 day to 7 days, 1 day to 2 days, or even every day.

[0049] Compared to existing technologies, this duration provides higher processing performance over a relatively short period of time.

[0050] This method, especially step b), can be performed using a portable device, particularly the reference RF ultrasound device of model EH-XR10® sold by Panasonic or the Newa® device sold by EndyMed.

[0051] The optical pulses preferably have a constant duration. In variants, the pulses have a variable duration. Therefore, two consecutive optical pulses at the nth and (n+1)th stages can have different corresponding durations.

[0052] The energy per pulse (5 kOhm) is preferably in the range of 0.6 mJ to 70 mJ. The device can be configured to transmit radio frequency for a predefined operating duration and then automatically shut down.

[0053] The total optical power received by the region to be processed during the pulse is advantageously in the range of 0.067 W to 0.67 W.

[0054] The distance between the device and the area to be treated can range from 0 cm to 100 cm, or more preferably from 0 cm to 1 cm or 2 cm.

[0055] Components In addition to the above objectives, another objective of the present invention is a component for performing the above methods, the component comprising a radio frequency beauty device that generates electrical pulses in the frequency range of 100 kHz to 100 MHz; and a cosmetic composition comprising a non-polymer cosmetic active agent in the molecular weight range of 100 Da to 700 Da.

[0056] This component can be sold in the same package, and in particular, includes a user guide that allows users to implement the method according to the invention. Attached Figure Description

[0057] [ Figure 1 ] Figure 1 This is a schematic diagram of the method according to the invention implemented using a Newa® device sold by EndyMed. [ Figure 2 ] Figure 2 This is a schematic diagram of the method according to the invention implemented using an RF ultrasonic device of model EH-XR10® sold by Panasonic Corporation. [ Figure 3 ] Figure 3 The experimental protocol for sample preparation is described. [ Figure 4 ], Figure 4 The amount of caffeine absorbed through the skin after 1 hour is shown (in µg / cm²). [ Figure 5 ], Figure 5 The amount of minoxidil absorbed through the skin after 1 hour is shown (in µg / cm²).

[0058] Example The devices used in this example are the Newa® commercial device sold by EndyMed and the EH-XR10® RF ultrasound device sold by Panasonic Corporation.

[0059] The compositions used are described in Table 1.

[0060] The composition is prepared in gel form based on the weight ratios described below. Percentages are provided by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The percentage of active material (AM) is also indicated if necessary.

[0061] Molecular weight (MW) is expressed in Da.

[0062] [Table 1] like Figure 1 and Figure 2 As shown, the periphery of a human skin sample 1 is attached to a Franz cell 2, exposing the exposed surface 3 to radio frequency. Specific operating conditions are assigned to each device. RF is applied remotely, and then the sample is placed on the Franz cell.

[0063] Prepare the following skin samples: “Passive”: The sample is treated with the composition only.

[0064] “Peeling”: The sample is processed by peeling.

[0065] “Newa”: Treat the skin with the Newa® device and composition for 1 minute. Then leave the composition on the skin for 1 hour.

[0066] "Panasonic": Treat the skin for 1 minute with a Panasonic (RF + ultrasound mode) device and composition. Then leave the composition on the skin for 1 hour.

[0067] Detailed plan as follows Figure 3 As shown.

[0068] Figure 4 The absorption curves of caffeine in the stratum corneum (SC), epidermis, and dermis are shown, as well as the cumulative absorption in the stratum corneum, epidermis, and dermis.

[0069] Figure 5 The absorption curves of minoxidil in the stratum corneum (SC), epidermis, and dermis are shown, as well as the cumulative absorption in the stratum corneum, epidermis, and dermis.

[0070] To measure the absorption profiles of caffeine and minoxidil, the analytical apparatus was used under the following operating conditions: LC-MS / MS coupled to quantify caffeine and minoxidil in the skin compartment to establish absorption profiles. Both molecules were analyzed using the same analytical method, with a mobile phase of a mixture of methanol and water plus 0.1% formic acid by weight, and a stationary phase of a 50 µm long, 2.1 mm diameter C18 column with 2.7 μm particles. Positive ESI was used as the ionization source. For optimal chromatographic results, gradient injection was employed.

[0071] Finally, an increase of more than two times was observed: for minoxidil, which has almost no penetration when used topically, there was an increase of more than twenty times, and for caffeine, there was an increase of more than five times. Preferred embodiment

[0072] Preferably, the method according to the invention has one or more of the following features, either individually or in combination: The voltage amplitude of this current ranges from 70 V to 200 V, and the current intensity ranges from 0.1 mA to 10 mA. The duration of each pulse (t) 脉冲 The range of ) is 0.2 ms to 1 s, and the rest interval between pulses (T) 关 The range is from 1 ms to 1,000 ms. The duty cycle of the supplied current (t) 脉冲 / (t 脉冲 +T 关 The range of )) is 2% to 98%, of which t 脉冲 T represents the duration of the pulse. 关 Indicates the interval between two consecutive pulses. The surface area of ​​one or more electrodes (2) in contact with the keratin material ranges from 0.1 to 20 cm². The device is handheld. The method includes applying the composition locally to the target area before and / or during the application of the current. The method involves manually moving one or more electrodes of the device over the target area while subjecting the target area to the current pulse. The duration of exposure of the target area of ​​skin can range from 2 to 10 minutes. The pulse duration T of these pulses 开 The range is from 2 ms to 1,000 ms. The current density applied by this electrode ranges from 0.2 mA / cm² to 50 mA / cm². Non-polymer surfactants contain hydrophilic or lipophilic groups. The logP range for non-polymer surfactants is -5 to 4. The non-polymer active agent is selected from compounds derived from pyrimidines or xanthines. The non-polymer active agent is selected from 2,4-diamino-6-piperidinylpyrimidine-3-oxide, 2,4-diaminopyrimidine-3-oxide, theophylline, caffeine, or mixtures thereof.

[0073] The value of logP represents the partition coefficient of a compound. It can be determined using the method described in the article by Meylan and Howard, “Atom / Fragment contribution method for estimating octanol-water partition coefficient,” J. Pharm. Sci., 84, 83-92 (1995). This value can also be calculated using commercially available software that determines the logP value based on the molecular structure. For example, the Epi-Win software from the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency can be cited.

Claims

1. A method for a non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment of the skin, comprising: a) Applying a cosmetic composition to a target area of ​​the skin, the cosmetic composition comprising a nonpolymeric cosmetic active agent with a molecular weight ranging from 100 Da to 700 Da. b) Exposing a target area of ​​the skin to a series of current pulses with a frequency ranging from 100 kHz to 100 MHz, and the current is supplied by a bipolar radiofrequency cosmetic device having at least one electrode and at least one counter electrode.

2. The method according to claim 1, wherein the voltage amplitude of the current ranges from 70 V to 200 V, and the intensity of the current ranges from 0.1 mA to 10 mA.

3. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the duration (t) of each pulse 脉冲 The range of ) is 0.2 ms to 1 s, and the rest interval between pulses (T) 关 The range is from 1 ms to 1,000 ms.

4. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the duty cycle (t) of the supplied current is... 脉冲 / (t 脉冲 +T 关 The range of )) is 2% to 98%, of which, t 脉冲 T represents the duration of the pulse. 关 This indicates the interval between two consecutive pulses.

5. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the surface area of ​​one or more electrodes (2) in contact with the keratin material ranges from 0.1 to 20 cm2.

6. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the device is handheld.

7. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising applying the composition locally to the target area before and / or during the application of the current.

8. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising manually moving the one or more electrodes of the device over the target region while subjecting the target region to the current pulse.

9. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the duration of exposure of the target area of ​​the skin ranges from 2 minutes to 10 minutes.

10. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the pulse duration T of the pulse 开 The range is from 2ms to 1,000ms.

11. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the current density applied by the electrode is in the range of 0.2 mA / cm² to 50 mA / cm².

12. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the non-polymer surfactant comprises a hydrophilic or lipophilic group.

13. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the logP of the non-polymeric surfactant is in the range of -5 to 4.

14. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the non-polymer active agent is selected from compounds derived from pyrimidines or xanthines.

15. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the non-polymer active agent is selected from 2,4-diamino-6-piperidinylpyrimidine-3-oxide, 2,4-diaminopyrimidine-3-oxide, theophylline, caffeine, or mixtures thereof.

16. A component for performing the method according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising: A radio frequency beauty device that generates electrical pulses in the frequency range of 100 kHz to 100 MHz; And cosmetic compositions comprising a non-polymer cosmetic active agent with a molecular weight ranging from 100 Da to 700 Da.

Citation Information

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