Particles comprising retinol

Abstract

The present invention relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic field and the skin field, and more particularly to novel particles comprising retinol, cetyl palmitate, glyceryl stearate, ceteareth-12, cetostearyl alcohol, ceteareth-20, tocopherol, and pentaerythritol tetra-di-tert-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, the invention also relates to their use in topical applications, in particular in cosmetic or dermatological applications, and to processes for their preparation.

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD

[0001] The present application relates to the field of non-therapeutic cosmetic makeup and the field of the skin, more particularly to new particles comprising retinol, cetyl palmitate, tocopherol and pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, and their use in topical application, in particular in cosmetic makeup or the skin, and their method of preparation. BACKGROUND

[0002] Retinol is a molecule well known in the field of cosmetic makeup, which stimulates the production of collagen, increases the speed of cell renewal of the skin, thickens the epidermis, and homogenizes the complexion by lightening brown spots (Quan, T. Human Skin Aging and the Anti-Aging Properties of Retinol. Biomolecules 2023, 13, 1614).

[0003] Unfortunately, retinol is a fragile and extremely unstable molecule which degrades rapidly if certain conditions are not met. It is worth noting that light and oxygen have a deleterious effect on the structure of retinol by rapidly transforming it into retinal and a mixture of different epoxides (5,6-epoxyretinol, 5,8-epoxyretinol and 13,14-epoxyretinol) (Crank and Pardijento, Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology 85 (1995) 93-100).

[0004] Formulators then use different strategies to protect retinol in the formulation, by adding antioxidants, or using vacuum packaging to limit contact with oxygen.

[0005] Unfortunately, despite these strategies, retinol remains highly unstable once formulated, and one study showed that out of 12 commercial cosmetic makeup formulations containing retinol or one of its derivatives, more than 40% of the products showed a significant decrease in the content of retinol or its derivatives after 6 months at 40°C (Rakusa et al., Cosmet Dermatol. 2020;00:1-9).

[0006] Encapsulation was found to be one of the solutions in the cosmetic makeup industry, which makes it possible to capture retinol inside a particle, thus making it possible to preserve the properties of retinol. Patent application WO 2023 / 169963 describes a lipid capsule having an oily core comprising retinol, tocopherol and soybean oil, surrounded by a waxy layer comprising cetyl palmitate, lecithin and sorbitan stearate, the capsule having a hydrophilic surface consisting of lauryl glucoside.

[0007] Thus, in the field of cosmetic makeup, it is a major problem to maintain the stability of retinol over time.

[0008] The Applicant has found that the granule comprising retinol, cetyl palmitate, glyceryl stearate, ceteareth-20, ceteareth-12, cetearyl alcohol, tocopherol and pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate is more stable than the solutions found in the prior art and thus can better protect retinol, maintaining its activity over time and / or thermal factors.

[0009] The Applicant has also found that the use of said granule in cosmetic makeup and / or in the skin to prevent and / or reduce the ageing of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes and / or to maintain and / or improve the barrier function and / or biomechanical properties of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, in particular to maintain and / or increase the firmness and / or elasticity and / or density of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, is particularly interesting. SUMMARY

[0010] A first object of the present application relates to a granule comprising retinol, cetyl palmitate, glyceryl stearate, ceteareth-20, ceteareth-12, cetearyl alcohol, tocopherol and pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate.

[0011] The granule of the present application comprises from 1 to 25% by weight of retinol, preferably from 5 to 20% by weight of retinol, more preferably from 10 to 14% by weight of retinol, with respect to the total weight of the granule.

[0012] The granule of the present application comprises from 5 to 60% by weight of cetyl palmitate, preferably from 15 to 50% by weight of cetyl palmitate, more preferably from 25 to 45% by weight of cetyl palmitate, advantageously from 30 to 40% by weight of cetyl palmitate, with respect to the total weight of the granule.

[0013] The granule of the present application comprises from 0.001 to 8% by weight of tocopherol, preferably from 0.01 to 4% by weight of tocopherol, more preferably from 0.1 to 2% by weight of tocopherol, with respect to the total weight of the granule.

[0014] The granule of the present application has an average size of 100-900 nm, preferably 150-750 nm, more preferably 300-500 nm.

[0015] The granule of the present application is obtained by phase inversion temperature technique.

[0016] According to the present application, the aqueous suspension comprises the granule of the present application in an aqueous solution, advantageously the aqueous solution comprises water and glycerol.

[0017] A second object of the application relates to a cosmetic makeup composition for topical application comprising the particles as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 6 or the aqueous suspension as defined according to claim 7, preferably in a content of 1 x 10 -4 % to 15% (w / w), preferably 1 x 10 -2 % to 10% (w / w), advantageously 0.01% to 6% (w / w), more preferentially 0.1% to 4% (w / w) and even more preferentially 1% to 3% (w / w), and at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient.

[0018] A third object of the application relates to the cosmetic use of the particles of the application or of the aqueous suspension of the application or of the cosmetic makeup composition of the application for preventing and / or reducing the aging of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, and / or for maintaining and / or increasing the biomechanical properties of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, and / or for maintaining and / or increasing the barrier function of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0019] The cosmetic use of the application makes it possible to maintain and / or increase the firmness and / or elasticity and / or thickness and / or density of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0020] The cosmetic use of the application is characterized in that the particles are intended to be applied to all or part of the body and / or face and / or scalp, preferably the legs, thighs, arms, abdomen, front chest, neck, armpits, lips, even more preferentially all or part of the face, and preferentially the cheeks, forehead, chin, lips, eye contour, in particular in the cheek and / or corner regions of the face, more preferentially in the regions of skin exhibiting a loss of biomechanical properties, in particular sagging, and / or flaccid skin regions and / or regions of skin lacking tone.

[0021] A fourth object of the application relates to a skin composition for topical application comprising the particles of the application or the aqueous suspension of the application, and at least one skin-acceptable excipient.

[0022] The skin composition of the application is characterized in that the particles or the aqueous suspension are present in the skin composition in a concentration of 1 x 10 -4 % to 15% (w / w), preferably 1 x 10 -2 % to 10% (w / w), advantageously 0.01% to 6% (w / w), more preferentially 0.1% to 4% (w / w) and even more preferentially 1% to 3% (w / w), and at least one skin-acceptable excipient.

[0023] The present application also relates to a particle according to the application or to an aqueous suspension according to the application or to a skin composition according to the application comprising said particle, which can prevent and / or treat pathological skin and / or pathological mucous membranes associated with a loss of elasticity and / or firmness and / or density due to, for example, a pathology such as candidiasis, pustulosis, eczema, acne, telangiectasia, cutis verticis gyrata, Ehlers-Danlos syndrome, osteogenesis imperfecta, solar elastosis, xeroderma, diabetes, tetraplegia, cutis rhomboidalis syndrome, psoriasis, atopic dermatitis and / or cutis laxa.

[0024] A fifth object of the present application relates to a process for the preparation of a particle according to the application or of an aqueous suspension according to the application, characterized in that the particle is obtained by a phase inversion temperature technique.

[0025] The process for the preparation according to the application is characterized in that it comprises the following steps:

[0026] a) mixing cetyl palmitate, glyceryl stearate, ceteareth-20, ceteareth-12, cetearyl alcohol, sodium stearoyl glutamate and pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate and heating to a temperature of 60-100°C, protected from light, to form phase A;

[0027] b) phase B is prepared by mixing retinol and tocopherol at room temperature;

[0028] c) mixing phase A and phase B at a temperature of 60-100°C to obtain a homogeneous product;

[0029] d) heating phase C comprising water and glycerol to a temperature of 60-100°C;

[0030] e) mixing phase C with the product obtained at the end of step c) to obtain an emulsion;

[0031] f) cooling the emulsion obtained at the end of step e) to a temperature of 35-55°C;

[0032] g) adding phase D comprising sodium stearoyl glutamate to the cooled emulsion obtained at the end of step f), mixing everything at a temperature of 35-55°C to obtain a homogeneous solution comprising particles, which corresponds to an aqueous suspension.

[0033] The process for the preparation according to the application is characterized in that the solution obtained at the end of step g) has a pH of 7-11, preferably 7-10.

[0034] A sixth object of the application relates to a method for the cosmetic care of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, characterized in that it comprises the topical application to at least one area of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes of the granules of the application, of the aqueous suspension of the application or of the cosmetic composition of the application comprising said granules.

[0035] The method for the cosmetic care of the application makes it possible to prevent and / or reduce the ageing of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, and / or to maintain and / or increase the biomechanical properties of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, and / or to maintain and / or increase the barrier function of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0036] The method for the cosmetic care of the application makes it possible to maintain and / or increase the firmness and / or density and / or thickness and / or elasticity of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0037] The method for the cosmetic care of the application is characterized in that the application is carried out on all or part of the body and / or face and / or scalp, preferably all or part of the legs, feet, armpits, hands, neck, chest, abdomen, arms, thighs, hips, buttocks, waist, again preferably the face, and preferably the cheeks, forehead, chin, lips, eye contour.

[0038] The method for the cosmetic care of the application comprises the following steps:

[0039] - identifying on the individual the area of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes for which it is desired to prevent and / or reduce the ageing, and / or to maintain and / or increase the biomechanical properties, and / or to maintain and / or increase the barrier function,

[0040] - topically applying to this area of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes an effective amount of the granules of the application or of the aqueous suspension of the application or of the composition of the application, in the form of active ingredients or of a cosmetic composition comprising them.

[0041] The first object thus relates to granules comprising retinol, cetyl palmitate, glyceryl stearate, ceteareth-20, ceteareth-12, cetearyl alcohol, tocopherol and pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate.

[0042] The term "retinol" means retinol, its lipophilic derivatives, retinal, retinoic acid and / or mixtures thereof. Preferably, the term "retinol" means retinol.

[0043] The term "cetyl palmitate" means an ester derived from palmitic acid and cetyl alcohol, in particular sold under the trademark Cetiol® R by BASF.

[0044] "Ceteareth-12" means a polyoxyl cetearyl ether comprising 12 moles of ethylene oxide. The global CAS identification number of Ceteareth-12 is 68439-49-6.

[0045] "Ceteareth-20" means a polyoxyl cetearyl ether comprising 20 moles of ethylene oxide. The global CAS identification number of Ceteareth-20 is 68439-49-6.

[0046] "Ceteareth-20" means a polyoxyl cetearyl ether comprising 20 moles of ethylene oxide. The global CAS identification number of Ceteareth-20 is 68439-49-6. SE-PF" means a mixture comprising:

[0047] - 40-70% of glyceryl stearate,

[0048] - 10-20% of Ceteareth-20,

[0049] - 5-10% of Ceteareth-12,

[0050] - 5-10% of Cetearyl Alcohol, and

[0051] - 5-10% of Cetearyl Alcohol, and

[0052] "Ceteareth-20" means a polyoxyl cetearyl ether comprising 20 moles of ethylene oxide. The global CAS identification number of Ceteareth-20 is 68439-49-6. B1" means Ceteareth-12.

[0053] "Ceteareth-20" means a polyoxyl cetearyl ether comprising 20 moles of ethylene oxide. The global CAS identification number of Ceteareth-20 is 68439-49-6. SG" means Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, also known as (4S)-4-amino-5- octadecanoyloxy-5-oxopentanoic acid sodium (IUPAC name).

[0054] "Ceteareth-20" means a polyoxyl cetearyl ether comprising 20 moles of ethylene oxide. The global CAS identification number of Ceteareth-20 is 68439-49-6. TE" means Tetrahydroxypropyl Ethylenediamine, preferably 1,1',1",1"'-(1,2- ethanediylbisazanediyl)tetra-2-propanol.

[0055] "tocopherol" means natural tocopherols (also known as vitamin E), synthetic tocopherols, their lipophilic derivatives and / or mixtures thereof, preferably alpha-tocopherol.

[0056] "Ceteareth-20" means a polyoxyl cetearyl ether comprising 20 moles of ethylene oxide. The global CAS identification number of Ceteareth-20 is 68439-49-6. TT" means Pentaerythrityl Tetra-di-t-butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, also known as PTTH, preferably it is 3,5-bis(1,1-dimethylethyl)-4-hydroxy-benzene propanoic acid 2,2-bis[[3-[3,5-bis(1,1-dimethylethyl)-4-hydroxyphenyl]-1- oxopropoxy]methyl]-1,3-propanediyl ester.

[0057] In the context of the present application, the term "particle" refers to a spherical vesicle having a solid core, i.e. being solid at 0-50°C, preferably 10-40°C, more preferably room temperature. Preferably, the solid core is surrounded by a semi-solid lamella at a temperature of 0-50°C, preferably 20-50°C, more preferably room temperature.

[0058] In one embodiment, the lamella comprises at least one surfactant, such as glyceryl stearate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, ceteareth-20 and ceteareth-12 and / or mixtures thereof, preferably the lamella comprises glyceryl stearate, ceteareth-20 and ceteareth-12, more preferably the lamella comprises glyceryl stearate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, ceteareth-20 and ceteareth-12.

[0059] According to one embodiment, the solid core of the particle of the present application comprises a single lipid compound, preferably said lipid compound has a melting temperature of 35-65°C, preferably 40-60°C, more preferably 45-55°C. Advantageously, the lipid compound is cetyl palmitate.

[0060] A "stable" particle refers to a particle which is able to maintain the content of retinol contained in the particle of at least 70%, preferably of at least 75%, more preferably of at least 80% relative to the initial content of retinol in the particle when stored at a storage temperature of 40°C for 6 months. Advantageously, a "stable" particle is able to maintain the content of retinol contained in the particle of at least 80%, advantageously of at least 85%, more advantageously of at least 88% relative to the initial content of retinol in the particle when stored at a storage temperature of 25°C for 6 months. More advantageously, a "stable" particle is able to maintain the content of retinol contained in the particle of at least 85%, advantageously of at least 90%, more advantageously of at least 95% relative to the initial content of retinol in the particle when stored at a storage temperature of 4°C for 6 months.

[0061] According to the present application, the particle comprises 1-25% by weight of retinol relative to the total weight of the particle, preferably 5-20% by weight of retinol, more preferably 10-14% by weight of retinol.

[0062] According to the present application, the particle comprises 5-60% by weight of cetyl palmitate relative to the total weight of the particle, preferably 15-50% by weight of cetyl palmitate, more preferably 25-45% by weight of cetyl palmitate, advantageously 30-40% by weight of cetyl palmitate.

[0063] According to one embodiment, the particle of the present application does not comprise ceramides and / or lecithins and / or sphingolipids or mixtures thereof.

[0064] According to another embodiment, the granules of the application do not comprise butylated hydroxytoluene, 2,6-di-tert-butyl-4-methylphenol (BHT) and / or butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA) or mixtures thereof.

[0065] According to another embodiment, in the process for the preparation of the granules of the application, retinol, glyceryl stearate, ceteareth-20, ceteareth-12, cetearyl alcohol, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, tocopherol and cetyl palmitate are miscible with each other.

[0066] According to the application, the granules comprise 10-75% by weight of emulsifier, preferably 25-45% by weight of emulsifier, more preferably 30-40% by weight of emulsifier, relative to the total weight of the granules.

[0067] According to the application, the granules advantageously comprise 1-24% by weight of glyceryl stearate, preferably 2-18% by weight of glyceryl stearate, more preferably 5-14% by weight of glyceryl stearate, relative to the total weight of the granules.

[0068] According to the application, the granules advantageously comprise 0.01-15% by weight of ceteareth-20, preferably 0.1-10% by weight of ceteareth-20, more preferably 0.1-5% by weight of ceteareth-20, relative to the total weight of the granules.

[0069] According to the application, the granules advantageously comprise 0.001-6% by weight of cetearyl alcohol, preferably 0.05-4% by weight of cetearyl alcohol, more preferably 0.1-3% by weight of cetearyl alcohol, relative to the total weight of the granules.

[0070] According to the application, the granules advantageously comprise 1-30% by weight of ceteareth-12, preferably 10-25% by weight of ceteareth-12, more preferably 15-20% by weight of ceteareth-12, relative to the total weight of the granules.

[0071] In a particular embodiment, the granules comprise:

[0072] - 1-24% by weight, preferably 2-18% by weight, more preferably 5-14% by weight of glyceryl stearate, relative to the total weight of the granules;

[0073] - 0.01-15% by weight, preferably 0.1-10% by weight, more preferably 0.1-5% by weight of ceteareth-20, relative to the total weight of the granules;

[0074] - from 0.001 to 6% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 4% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight of cetearyl alcohol relative to the total weight of the granules;

[0075] - from 1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 10 to 25% by weight, more preferably from 15 to 20% by weight of ceteareth-12 relative to the total weight of the granules.

[0076] According to the application, the granules comprise from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 6% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 4% by weight of antioxidant relative to the total weight of the granules.

[0077] In one embodiment, the granules comprise from 0.001 to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 4% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 2% by weight of tocopherol relative to the total weight of the granules.

[0078] The granules comprise from 0.005 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 6% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight of pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate relative to the total weight of the granules.

[0079] According to the application, the average size of the granules is from 100 to 900 nm, preferably from 150 to 750 nm, more preferably from 300 to 500 nm.

[0080] Preferably, 90% of the granules have an average size greater than 150 nm, preferably greater than 300 nm.

[0081] Advantageously, 90% of the granules have an average size less than 750 nm, preferably less than 500 nm.

[0082] Preferably, the measurement of the average size of the granules is carried out by dynamic light scattering as described in Example 2 of the application.

[0083] “Room temperature” means a temperature of from 18 to 30°C.

[0084] Preferably, the granules of the application are contained in an aqueous solution. In this context, the application also relates to an aqueous suspension comprising the granules of the application in an aqueous solution.

[0085] In one embodiment, the aqueous solution comprises water and glycerol. Thus, the aqueous suspension of the application preferably comprises the granules of the application and an aqueous solution comprising water and glycerol.

[0086] According to one embodiment, other compounds well known to the person skilled in the art can be added to the aqueous solution, such as emulsifiers, wetting agents, neutralizing agents, bacteriostatic agents, antioxidants, preservatives and / or mixtures thereof.

[0087] According to one embodiment, the aqueous suspension comprises 5% to 25% by weight, preferably 8% to 20% by weight, more preferably 10% to 15% by weight of glycerol, relative to the total weight of the aqueous suspension of the application.

[0088] According to one embodiment, the aqueous suspension comprises 1 x 10 -3 -4% by weight, preferably 0.01% to 2% by weight, more preferably 0.1% to 1% by weight of sodium stearoyl glutamate, relative to the total weight of the aqueous suspension of the application.

[0089] According to one embodiment, the aqueous suspension comprises 1 x 10 -3 -2% by weight, preferably 0.01% to 1.5% by weight, more preferably 0.1% to 1% by weight of tetrahydroxypropyl ethylenediamine, relative to the total weight of the aqueous suspension of the application.

[0090] According to one embodiment, the aqueous suspension comprises 0.01% to 6% by weight, preferably 0.1% to 3% by weight, more preferably 0.5% to 2.5% by weight of pentylene glycol, relative to the total weight of the aqueous suspension of the application.

[0091] The particles of the application or the aqueous suspension of the application can be applied topically.

[0092] For the purposes of the present application, the term "topical application" means direct topical application and / or evaporation of the particles of the application or of the compositions comprising them on the surface of the area of skin and / or mucous membrane to be treated.

[0093] The particles of the application or the aqueous suspension of the application can be applied topically to the total or partial surface of the skin, or to the total or partial mucous membrane, whether or not including cutaneous appendages.

[0094] "Skin" means any part of the body and / or face, including the scalp.

[0095] "Mucous membrane" means the ocular and / or nasal and / or ear and / or urogenital and / or vaginal and / or oral and / or lip and / or gingival and / or anal mucous membrane.

[0096] The particles of the application can be used in particular for cosmetic use, to prevent and / or reduce the ageing of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, and / or to maintain and / or increase the biomechanical properties of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, and / or to maintain and / or increase the barrier effect of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0097] The "cosmetic use" is a non-therapeutic, non-medicinal or dermatological use, that is to say which does not require or involve a therapeutic treatment and which aims to be applied to healthy parts of the body, in particular to healthy skin and / or to healthy mucous areas.

[0098] The term "healthy skin", "healthy mucous" or "healthy tissue" means a skin or mucous area to which the granules of the application or the composition of the application are applied and which is referred to by dermatologists as "non-pathological", that is to say which does not present an infection, a scar, a disease or a skin disorder, such as candidiasis, impetigo, psoriasis, eczema, acne, telangiectasia, dermatitis, in particular seborrheic dermatitis, solar elastosis and / or cutis laxa pathologies, does not present a wound or a lesion or dandruff and / or other skin disorders and / or hair loss and / or alopecia and / or alopecia areata.

[0099] Advantageously, the granules of the application and the cosmetic composition of the application comprising said granules can be used topically for treating sensitive and / or fragile healthy skin and / or sensitive and / or sensitized healthy skin and / or reactive healthy skin and / or damaged healthy skin and / or healthy skin.

[0100] The term "sensitive and / or fragile skin" means a skin which is fragile or which becomes fragile due to age, such as the skin of a baby or the skin of a mature person, that is to say a person over 40 years old, or which is fragile or which becomes fragile due to the nature of the skin, such as the skin of the decollete, of the armpits, of the elbows and / or of the knees, or which is fragile or which becomes fragile due to the exposure of the skin of certain areas of the body to rubbing and / or aggression, in particular mechanical rubbing and / or aggression, such as the skin of the face and / or of the hands. The sensitive and / or fragile skin includes a skin which has an allergic tendency. The sensitive and / or fragile skin does not fall within the scope of a pathological prevention and / or treatment.

[0101] The term "sensitive and / or sensitized skin" refers to skin with very low tolerance to natural or temporary external abrasives, particularly environmental factors such as pollutants, chemicals (heavy metals, detergents, compounds contained in cosmetic treatments such as fragrances, preservatives, alcohols, pH, AHAs, or compounds contained in skin treatments such as vitamin A, acids), allergens, tobacco, climatic factors (wind, cold, heat), UV radiation, hard water, and / or non-pathological physiological changes including stress, dietary changes, hormones (during puberty, pregnancy, menopause, and / or male menopause), sweating, and / or repetitive mechanical aggression such as hair removal, shaving, washing, and friction (repeated hand washing). Unlike allergic skin, sensitive and / or sensitized skin is not pathological skin. However, they can respond to abrasives and / or conditions, particularly at the epidermal level. Therefore, the characteristics of "sensitive skin" can be estimated by an individual through subjective skin sensations or by a dermatologist through objective skin responses. Sensitive and / or sensitized skin does not fall within the scope of pathological prevention and / or treatment.

[0102] The particles or aqueous suspensions of the present invention can be contained in cosmetic and / or skin compositions, the compositions further comprising at least one cosmetic and / or skin-acceptable excipient for topical application.

[0103] The particles or aqueous suspensions of the present invention can be obtained by any method commonly known to those skilled in the art, such as high-pressure homogenization (“Synthesis of lipid nanocarrier loaded with retinol via vacuumemulsification to improve topical delivery”, Seung-Hyun Jun et al., Polymers 2021, 13, 826) and phase transition temperature technology (PIT - phase transition temperature).

[0104] Preferably, the particles or aqueous suspensions of the present invention can be obtained using phase transition temperature (PIT) technology. This method is simple to implement for users and is cheaper than other methods available on the market.

[0105] In a preferred embodiment, the particles or aqueous suspension of the present invention are obtained by phase transition temperature technology.

[0106] According to one embodiment, the particles account for 20%-60% of the total weight of the aqueous suspension of the present invention, preferably 30%-50% by weight, and more preferably 35%-45% by weight.

[0107] According to a particular embodiment, the aqueous suspension of the present invention comprises:

[0108] - 20-60%, preferably 30-50%, more preferably 35-45% of the granules of the application;

[0109] - 5%-25%, preferably 8%-20%, more preferably 10%-15% of glycerol; and

[0110] - water, to complete 100%, expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous suspension of the application.

[0111] The application also relates to the cosmetic use of the granules or of the aqueous suspension as active cosmetic ingredients or of the cosmetic compositions comprising them for the cosmetic care of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, in particular for preventing and / or reducing the aging of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, and / or for maintaining and / or increasing the biomechanical properties of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, and / or for maintaining and / or increasing the barrier function of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0112] The term "cosmetic active ingredient" means a component having cosmetic properties on the skin and / or mucous membranes, in particular by topical application, more particularly for caring for the skin and / or mucous membranes, advantageously having cosmetic properties making it in particular possible to prevent and / or reduce the aging of the skin and / or mucous membranes, and / or to maintain and / or increase the biomechanical properties of the skin and / or mucous membranes, and / or to maintain and / or increase the barrier function of the skin and / or mucous membranes.

[0113] The term "preventing and / or reducing the aging of the skin and mucous membranes" means preventing and / or reducing the appearance of signs of aging, in particular the increase in free radicals and toxins, the decrease in firmness, elasticity and / or density. The aging of the skin and / or mucous membranes includes chronological aging and aging induced by external factors, in particular photoaging. Preventing and / or reducing the aging of the skin and / or mucous membranes can lead to maintaining and / or increasing the anti-free radical action, cellular oxygenation, firmness, density and / or elasticity.

[0114] The external factors can be aggressive environmental factors, such as pollution, UV radiation, smog, tobacco, toxins or climate and / or mechanical aggression.

[0115] For the purposes of the application, "maintaining the biomechanical properties" means preventing and / or avoiding the degradation of the biomechanical properties of the skin and / or mucous membranes, in particular during their exposure to environmental, chemical, biological and / or mechanical aggression, in particular by preventing the skin and / or mucous membranes from being damaged and / or by preventing the skin and / or mucous membranes from being damaged more.

[0116] For the purposes of the present invention, "increasing the biomechanical properties" means improving the biomechanical properties of the skin and / or mucosa, in particular when they are exposed to environmental, chemical, biological and / or mechanical aggressions, in particular by preventing the skin and / or mucosa from becoming a damaged skin and / or mucosa and / or by preventing the skin and / or mucosa from being further damaged.

[0117] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "biomechanical properties" means the firmness and / or density and / or elasticity and / or resistance to compression and / or resistance to stretching and / or flexibility and / or extensibility and / or ability to resist deformation of the skin and / or mucosa. Preferably, it relates to the firmness and / or elasticity and / or density of the skin and / or mucosa, in particular of the dermis.

[0118] More preferably, the firmness and / or density and / or elasticity are defined as the properties that limit and / or reduce the sagging, drooping and / or lack of tone of healthy skin and / or healthy mucosa, in particular on the cheeks and / or in the angular regions of the face (generally known as the face oval or face V).

[0119] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "maintaining and / or increasing the firmness" means preventing the decrease in the firmness of the skin and / or mucosa and / or increasing the firmness of the skin and / or mucosa for aesthetic purposes, in particular for skin and / or mucosa that has already lost firmness under the effect of internal and / or external factors.

[0120] The internal factors can be the aging of the skin and / or mucosa, i.e. the time-induced aging, which we find for example in mature skin, i.e. the skin of people over 40 years of age. These can include cellular stress, non-pathological physiological changes such as dietary changes, hormonal changes, in particular during puberty, during pregnancy, pre-menopause, menopause and / or male menopause.

[0121] Preferably, the present invention maintains and / or increases the firmness and / or elasticity and / or radiance and / or reduces the fine lines in the tissue compared to the firmness and / or elasticity and / or radiance and / or fine lines in the tissue measured in the absence of the particles.

[0122] In an advantageous embodiment of the present invention, this is an increase measured in vivo, preferably on the skin of the face of a human being.

[0123] For the purposes of the present invention, "maintaining and / or increasing elasticity" means, from the cosmetic point of view, preventing the decrease in the elasticity of the skin and / or mucous membranes, particularly under the influence of internal factors, such as the ageing of the skin and / or mucous membranes, i.e. the chronological ageing we find in, for example, mature skin, i.e. the skin of people over 40 years of age, cell stress, non-pathophysiological changes such as dietary changes, hormonal changes, particularly during puberty, pregnancy, pre-menopause, menopause and / or male menopause, and / or causing an increase in it, for aesthetic purposes. This decrease in elasticity can also occur under the influence of external factors, such as aggressive environmental factors, for example pollution, smog, UV radiation, tobacco, toxins, or climatic and / or mechanical aggressive factors.

[0124] Preferably, the elasticity of the skin or mucous membranes measured in vivo in the presence of the particles according to the application is increased compared to the elasticity of the skin and / or mucous membranes measured in the absence of particles. In a preferred embodiment of the application, this is an increase measured in vivo, advantageously on the skin of the face of a human being.

[0125] According to a preferred embodiment, the particles of the application make it possible to maintain and / or increase the expression of collagen, particularly type I and / or type III and / or type XVIII, preferably type I and / or type III collagen.

[0126] "Type I collagen" means type I collagen present in the skin, cornea, tendons, ligaments, bones, more preferably in the skin.

[0127] For the purposes of the present application, the term "type III collagen" means type III collagen present in the skin, muscles, organs, cardiovascular system, preferably in the skin.

[0128] "Maintaining and / or increasing the expression of type I collagen" means preventing a decrease in the gene expression of collagen, i.e. the expression of mRNA (messenger RNA), and / or the protein synthesis of collagen and / or increasing it in a tissue treated with the particles of the application or the aqueous suspension of the application or the cosmetic and dermatological composition of the application, relative to the gene expression and / or protein synthesis measured in the absence of treatment with the particles of the application or the aqueous suspension of the application or the cosmetic and dermatological composition of the application.

[0129] According to an advantageous embodiment of the application, this is an increase in the protein expression level of collagen I and / or collagen III measured in a living biopsy treated or not treated with the particles of the application or the aqueous suspension of the application or the cosmetic and dermatological composition of the application.

[0130] Advantageously, the measurement of the increase in protein expression is carried out ex vivo, preferably after a measurement by immunostaining and / or ELISA.

[0131] The biomechanical properties of the skin and / or mucous membranes can be studied by measurement techniques known to the person skilled in the art, in particular by tensile, torsional, suction, indentation, ballistic measurements, high-resolution ultrasound scanner or elastography, preferably by indentation, high-resolution ultrasound scanning.

[0132] The term "maintaining and / or increasing the barrier function of the skin and / or mucous membranes" means preventing and / or increasing the thickness of the tissue, in particular the thickness of the epidermis and / or mucous membranes, and / or preventing and / or promoting the cohesion thereof at the level of the stratum corneum and / or mucous membranes, and / or limiting and / or reducing the loss of moisture at the level of the skin and / or mucous membranes.

[0133] Advantageously, the term "maintaining and / or increasing the barrier function" means maintaining and / or increasing the thickness of the epidermis.

[0134] The measurement of the increase in the thickness of the epidermis can be carried out by any method known to the person skilled in the art, for example by measuring the thickness of the epidermis by optical microscopy.

[0135] In an advantageous embodiment of the application, the increase in the epidermis is measured in vivo in an individual having healthy, i.e. non-pathological, skin and / or mucous membranes.

[0136] According to one embodiment, the particles of the application and / or the composition comprising the particles of the application and / or the aqueous suspension of the application are intended for application to all or part of the body and / or face and / or scalp, preferably the legs, thighs, arms, abdomen, front chest, neck, armpits, lips, again preferably all or part of the face, and preferably the cheeks, forehead, chin, lips, eye contour, in particular in the cheek and / or angular regions of the face (generally known as the face circle or face V), more preferentially to the skin regions presenting a loss of biomechanical properties, in particular sagging, and / or sagging skin regions and / or skin regions lacking tone.

[0137] According to the application, the particles or the aqueous suspension of the application can be used alone, as a cosmetic and / or dermatological active ingredient and / or can be in the form of a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition for topical application comprising said particles or said aqueous suspension and at least one cosmetically and / or dermatologically acceptable excipient, in particular for preventing and / or attenuating the ageing of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, and / or for maintaining and / or increasing the biomechanical properties of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, and / or for maintaining and / or increasing the barrier function of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0138] The application also relates to a cosmetic composition for topical application comprising the granules or the aqueous suspension of the application and at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient.

[0139] The term "cosmetic composition" means a non-therapeutic composition, i.e. not intended for therapeutic use and applied to a healthy body part, in particular to a healthy skin and / or mucous membrane area.

[0140] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition of the application comprises the aqueous suspension of the application at a concentration of 1 x 10 -4 % to 15% (w / w), preferably 1 x 10 -2 % to 10% (w / w), advantageously 0.01 % to 6% (w / w), more preferably 0.1 % to 4% (w / w), even more preferably 1 % to 3% (w / w), the cosmetic composition further comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient.

[0141] "cosmetically acceptable excipient" means a compound and / or a solvent which is topically acceptable for a healthy skin and / or a healthy mucous membrane, in particular the scalp, i.e. suitable for topical application, non-toxic, non-irritating, does not induce allergies and is not a chemically unstable ingredient.

[0142] The cosmetic composition of the application can be chosen from aqueous or oily solutions, creams or aqueous or oily gels, in particular shower gels, shampoos; milks; emulsions, microemulsions or nanoemulsions, in particular oil-in-water or water-in-oil or multiple or silicone-based; masks; serums; body milks; liquid soaps; body bars; ointments; balms; butters; mousses; patches.

[0143] It can also be a makeup product or a makeup-removing product.

[0144] The composition of the application can comprise any suitable solvent and / or any suitable carrier and / or any suitable excipient, optionally in combination with other target compounds.

[0145] Thus, for these compositions, the excipients include, for example, at least one compound chosen from the following: preservatives, softening agents, emulsifiers, surfactants, moisturizers, thickening agents, conditioning agents, matting agents, stabilizers, antioxidants, texturizing agents, gloss agents, film-forming agents, solubilizers, pigments, dyes, fragrances and sunscreens.

[0146] These excipients are preferably chosen from amino acids and their derivatives, polyglycerols, esters, cellulose polymers and derivatives, lanolin derivatives, phospholipids, lactoferrin, lactoperoxidase, stabilizers based on sucrose, vitamin E and its derivatives, natural and synthetic waxes, vegetable oils, triglycerides, nonsaponifiables, phytosterols, phytosterol esters, silicones and their derivatives, protein hydrolysates, jojoba oil and its derivatives, liposoluble ester / water-soluble ester, betaine, aminooxides, plant extracts, sucrose esters, titanium dioxide, glycine and parabens, and more preferentially from butylene glycol, steareth-2, steareth-21, glycol-15 stearyl ether, cetyl stearyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, methyl paraben, ethyl paraben, propyl paraben, butyl paraben, butylene glycol, natural tocopherol, glycerin, sodium dihydroxycetyl phosphate, isopropyl hydroxycetyl ether, ethylene glycol stearate, triisononyl, octyl decanoate, polyacrylamide, isomeric alkanes, laureth-7, carbomer, propylene glycol, glycerin, bisabalol, dimethicone, sodium hydroxide, PEG 30-dipolyhydroxystearate, capric / caprylic triglyceride, cetyl stearyl octanoate, dibutyl adipate, grape seed oil, jojoba oil, magnesium sulfate, EDTA, cyclomethicone, xanthan gum, citric acid, sodium lauryl sulfate, waxes and mineral oils, isostearyl isostearate, propylene glycol diniapamate, propylene glycol isostearate, PEG 8, beeswax, hydrogenated palm kernel oil glycerides, hydrogenated palm oil glycerides, lanolin oil, sesame oil, cetyl lactate, lanolin alcohols, castor oil, titanium dioxide, lactose, sucrose, low-density polyethylene, isotonic aqueous saline solution and mixtures thereof.

[0147] The cosmetic makeup composition can also comprise an active ingredient that reinforces the barrier function of the skin, which causes a complementary or synergistic effect with the particles of the application, chosen from those that reinforce the barrier function and reduce the unperceived loss of moisture and / or increase the water content of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or stimulate aquaporin synthesis to improve water circulation in the cells. In this regard, mention can be made of serine, urea and its derivatives, products such as Marine Collagen Microspheres and chondroitin sulfate as a glycosaminoglycan, and a preparation comprising hyaluronate, urea, trehalose, glyceryl triacetate and polyquaternium 51, sold respectively under the names Marine Filling sphères TM and Advanced moisturizing complex TM sold; hyaluronic acid microspheres sold under the names Osmogelline TM and Micropatch TM TM ​Serine sells a mixture of algal extract or farnelin, alginate and serine; or pullulan, hyaluronic acid or one of its salts or one of its derivatives, in combination with alginic acid, one of its salts or one of its derivatives, under the trade name Patch2O TM Serine sells a mixture of algal extract or farnelin, alginate and serine; or pullulan, hyaluronic acid or one of its salts or one of its derivatives, in combination with alginic acid, one of its salts or one of its derivatives, under the trade name Patch2O

[0148] Other compounds can be used, such as alkylcellulose, lecithin, compounds based on sphingolipids, ceramides, phospholipids, cholesterol and its derivatives, glycosphingolipids, phytosterols (stigmasterol, beta-sitosterol, campesterol), essential fatty acids, 1,2 diacylglycerols, 4-chromanones, pentacyclic triterpenes such as ursolic acid, petroleum jelly, lanolin, sugars, in particular trehalose and its derivatives, rhamnose, fructose, maltose, lactose, erythritol, mannitol, D-xylose and glucose, adenosine and its derivatives, sorbitol, polyols, advantageously C2-C6, and more advantageously C3-C6, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, dipropylene glycol, diglycerol, polyglycerol and mixtures thereof, glycerol and its derivatives, glyceryl polyacrylate, sodium lactate, pentylene glycol, serine, lactic acid, AHAs, BHAs, sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, xylitol, sodium lactate, ectoin and its derivatives, chitosan and its derivatives, collagen, plankton, steroid derivatives (including DHEA, its 7-oxidized and / or 17-alkylated derivatives and saponin aglycone), dihydrojasmonic acid methyl ester, vitamin D and its derivatives, Malva sylvestres extract or Centella asiatica extract, acrylic acid homopolymer, beta-glucan, and in particular sodium carboxymethyl beta-glucan, C-glycoside derivatives such as those described in application WO2002051828, rose musk oil, Algualane Zinc TM Serine sells a mixture of algal extract or farnelin, alginate and serine; or pullulan, hyaluronic acid or one of its salts or one of its derivatives, in combination with alginic acid, one of its salts or one of its derivatives, under the trade name Patch2O TM Serine sells a mixture of algal extract or farnelin, alginate and serine; or pullulan, hyaluronic acid or one of its salts or one of its derivatives, in combination with alginic acid, one of its salts or one of its derivatives, under the trade name Patch2O TM Serine sells a mixture of algal extract or farnelin, alginate and serine; or pullulan, hyaluronic acid or one of its salts or one of its derivatives, in combination with alginic acid, one of its salts or one of its derivatives, under the trade name Patch2O TM Serine sells a mixture of algal extract or farnelin, alginate and serine; or pullulan, hyaluronic acid or one of its salts or one of its derivatives, in combination with alginic acid, one of its salts or one of its derivatives, under the trade name Patch2O TM Serine sells a mixture of algal extract or farnelin, alginate and serine; or pullulan, hyaluronic acid or one of its salts or one of its derivatives, in combination with alginic acid, one of its salts or one of its derivatives, under the trade name Patch2O TM Serine sells a mixture of algal extract or farnelin, alginate and serine; or pullulan, hyaluronic acid or one of its salts or one of its derivatives, in combination with alginic acid, one of its salts or one of its derivatives, under the trade name Patch2O

[0149] The cosmetic composition may also contain other cosmetic and / or skin surfactants having the same properties and having or not having a particulate-inducing synergistic effect with the present invention, or cosmetic surfactants having a complementary effect.

[0150] These can be, for example, moisturizing, anti-free radical, anti-aging, soothing, anti-inflammatory, whitening, matte ingredients and / or hot water.

[0151] Preferably, the composition comprising the particles of the present invention further comprises one or more cosmetic active ingredients having the same properties as the particles of the present invention and inducing or not inducing a synergistic effect with the particles, or comprising cosmetic active agents having a complementary effect.

[0152] It can also be an anti-aging active ingredient, such as BASF Beauty Care Solutions' Nephoria brand. TM Rambutan (Nephelium lappaceum) leaf extract sold under the trade name Lox-Age TM The chicory (Cichorium intybus) extract and / or BASF Beauty Care Solutions sold under the brand name Cist'M TM Extracts of the aerial parts of *Cistus monspeliensis* and / or sold under the trade name Linefactor TM Hibiscus abelmoschus seed extract sold by BASF Beauty Care Solutions and / or Replexium peptide sold by BASF Beauty Care Solutions. TM Revitor TM Dermagenist TM and / or Lys'lastine TM and Matrixyl TM Matrixyl3000T and / or Bakuchiol.

[0153] These can be firming and / or moisturizing active ingredients, such as those from BASF Beauty Care Solutions under the brand name Nephydrat. TM Rambutan (Nephelium lappaceum) bark extract and / or active agents that enhance the epidermal barrier function, such as those marketed by BASF Beauty Care Solutions under the brand name Oligolin. TMHydrolyzed flaxseed extract for sale.

[0154] The firming agents that can be used in the present application can be chosen from synthetic polymers, such as polyurethane or acrylic latices, polymers of natural origin, in particular polysaccharides in the form of starches or carrageenans, alginates, agar-agar, gellans, cellulose polymers and pectins; vegetable proteins and protein hydrolysates; mixed silicates; wax microparticles; colloidal particles of inorganic fillers, such as chosen from silica, silica-alumina composites; and mixtures thereof.

[0155] Finally, it can also be a cosmetic makeup ingredient, such as an antimicrobial agent, an antiradical agent, a soothing agent, a calming or relaxing agent, an active agent acting on the microcirculation to improve the radiance of the complexion, in particular of the face, a healing agent or a slimming agent. Advantageously, the cosmetic makeup and / or skin composition of the application also contains one or more firming agents and / or one or more antimicrobial agents and / or one or more antiradical agents and / or one or more soothing agents and / or one or more slimming agents and / or one or more active agents acting on the microcirculation.

[0156] In a preferred embodiment of the application, the antimicrobial agents combined with the particles of the application can mention 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether (or triclosan), 3,4,4'-trichlorobanilide, phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol, phenoxyisopropanol, hexamidine isethionate, metronidazole and its salts, miconazole and its salts, itraconazole, terconazole, econazole, ketoconazole, saperconazole, fluconazole, clotrimazole, butoconazole, omoconazole, sulconazole, sulconazole, terbinafine, undecylenic acid and its salts, benzoyl peroxide, 3-hydroxybenzoic acid, 4-hydroxybenzoic acid, phytic acid, N-acetyl-L-cysteine, thioctic acid, azelaic acid and its salts, arachidonic acid, resorcinol, octoxyglycerol, octanoylglycine, octanoyl glycol, 10-hydroxy-2-decanoic acid, farnesol, sphingosine and mixtures thereof.

[0157] The antiradical agents can be vitamin C and its derivatives, including ascorbic acid glucoside, phenols and polyphenols, in particular tannins, ellagic acid and tannic acid; epigallocatechin and natural extracts containing it, in particular green tea extract; anthocyanins; active scavengers of mononuclear or polynuclear aromatic compounds, tannins such as ellagic acid and indole derivatives and / or active scavengers of heavy metals such as EDTA, antiradical active ingredients such as vitamin E and its derivatives such as tocopheryl acetate; bioflavonoids; coenzyme Q10 or ubiquinone.

[0158] As soothing agents of the composition of the application, pentacyclic triterpenes, ursolic acid and its salts, oleanolic acid and its salts, betulinic acid and its salts, salicylates, in particular zinc salicylate, bisabalol, allantoin, unsaturated omega-3 oils, cortisone, hydrocortisone, indomethacin and beta-methadol, anti-inflammatory active agents, in particular those described in application FR 2 847 267, in particular from the applicant under the trade name Inhipase TM Pueraria lobata root extract, Theobroma cacao extract.

[0159] Active ingredients acting on the microcirculation, vasoprotectors or vasodilators can be chosen from flavonoids, ruscogenins, nicotinic acid esters, essential oils.

[0160] The application also relates to a process for the preparation of the granules of the application or of the aqueous suspension of the application by phase inversion temperature technique, comprising in particular the following steps:

[0161] a) mixing cetyl palmitate, glyceryl stearate, ceteareth-20, ceteareth-12, cetearyl alcohol and pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate and heating to 60-100°C, protected from light, to form phase A;

[0162] b) phase B is prepared by mixing retinol and tocopherol at room temperature;

[0163] c) mixing phase A and phase B at 60-100°C to obtain a homogeneous product;

[0164] d) heating phase C comprising water and glycerol to 60-100°C;

[0165] e) mixing phase C with the product obtained at the end of step c) to obtain an emulsion;

[0166] f) cooling the emulsion obtained at the end of step e) to 35-55°C;

[0167] g) adding phase D comprising sodium stearoyl glutamate to the cooled emulsion obtained at the end of step f), mixing everything at 35-55°C to obtain a homogeneous solution comprising the granules of the application, i.e. the aqueous suspension of the application;

[0168] h) optionally recovering (isolating) said granules.

[0169] The solution obtained at the end of step g) has a pH of 7-11, preferably 7-10.

[0170] Preferably, step a) is carried out at 70-90°C, more preferably 75-85°C, advantageously at 80°C.

[0171] Preferably, step c) is carried out at 70-90°C, more preferably 75-85°C, advantageously at 80°C.

[0172] Preferably, step d) is carried out at 70-90°C, more preferably 75-85°C, advantageously at 80°C.

[0173] Preferably, the emulsion is cooled to 40-55°C, more preferably 45-55°C, advantageously 50°C in step f).

[0174] Preferably, 5-25% by weight, more preferably 10-20% by weight, of cetyl palmitate relative to the total weight of the resulting aqueous suspension is introduced in step a).

[0175] Preferably, 0.1-10% by weight, more preferably 1-6% by weight, of glyceryl stearate relative to the total weight of the resulting aqueous suspension is introduced in step a).

[0176] Preferably, 1-20% by weight, more preferably 3-10% by weight, of ceteareth-12 relative to the total weight of the resulting aqueous suspension is introduced in step a).

[0177] Preferably, 0.01-5% by weight, more preferably 0.1-2% by weight, of ceteareth-20 relative to the total weight of the resulting aqueous suspension is introduced in step a).

[0178] Preferably, 0.005-5% by weight, more preferably 0.05-2% by weight, of cetearyl alcohol relative to the total weight of the resulting aqueous suspension is introduced in step a).

[0179] Preferably, 0.01-5% by weight, more preferably 0.1-2% by weight, of pentylene glycol tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate relative to the total weight of the resulting aqueous suspension is introduced in step a).

[0180] Preferably, 1-10% by weight, more preferably 2-8% by weight, of retinol relative to the total weight of the resulting aqueous suspension is introduced in step b).

[0181] Preferably, 0.005-5% by weight, more preferably 0.05-2% by weight, of tocopherol relative to the total weight of the resulting aqueous suspension is introduced in step b).

[0182] Preferably, 5-25% by weight, more preferably 10-20% by weight, of glycerol relative to the total weight of the resulting aqueous suspension is introduced in step d).

[0183] Preferably, 30% to 60% by weight, more preferably 40% to 50% by weight, of water relative to the total weight of the resulting aqueous suspension are introduced in step d).

[0184] Preferably, 0.005% to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.05% to 2% by weight, of sodium stearoyl glutamate relative to the total weight of the resulting aqueous suspension are introduced in step g).

[0185] According to one embodiment, other compounds well known to the person skilled in the art can be added at any step of the process, preferably in phase A of step a), in phase B of step b), in phase C of step d) and / or in phase D of step g), such as emulsifiers, humectants, neutralizing agents, bacteriostatic agents, antioxidants, etc.

[0186] The emulsifier can be chosen from all emulsifiers well known to the person skilled in the art, such as glyceryl stearate, cetostearyl peg-20, cetostearyl peg-12, cetostearyl alcohol, sodium stearoyl glutamate and mixtures thereof.

[0187] The humectant can be chosen from all humectants well known to the person skilled in the art, in particular glycerol.

[0188] The neutralizing agent can be chosen from all neutralizing agents well known to the person skilled in the art, such as pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate.

[0189] The antioxidant can be chosen from all antioxidants well known to the person skilled in the art, such as tocopherol, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate and mixtures thereof.

[0190] The bacteriostatic agent can be chosen from all bacteriostatic agents well known to the person skilled in the art, such as benzyl alcohol, pentylene glycol and mixtures thereof.

[0191] The present application also relates to a method for the cosmetic care of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, characterized in that it comprises the topical application to at least one area of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, in particular for preventing and / or reducing the aging of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, and / or maintaining and / or increasing the biomechanical properties of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, and / or maintaining and / or increasing the barrier function of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, of the particles of the present application or of the aqueous suspensions of the present application, in particular those described above, or of the cosmetic and / or dermatological composition comprising them.

[0192] Advantageously, the particles or the aqueous suspensions of the present application, preferably in the form of a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition comprising them, are used for topical application on a regular basis and preferably at least once a day, advantageously twice a day, for at least 1 month, preferably at least 2 months, more preferably at least 3 months.

[0193] The cosmetic care method for preventing and / or reducing the ageing of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes and / or maintaining and / or increasing the biomechanical properties of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes and / or maintaining and / or increasing the barrier function of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes according to the application advantageously comprises the following steps:

[0194] - identifying on the individual the area of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes for which it is desired to prevent and / or reduce the ageing, and / or to maintain and / or increase the biomechanical properties, and / or to maintain and / or increase the barrier function,

[0195] - applying topically to this area of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes an effective amount of the particles according to the application or of the aqueous suspension according to the application, in the form of an active ingredient or of a cosmetic composition comprising said particles or said suspension.

[0196] In another embodiment, the particles according to the application can be incorporated into a cosmetic composition.

[0197] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic care method according to the application is characterized in that it comprises the topical application to at least one area of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes of said particles or of a cosmetic composition comprising them, in order to maintain and / or increase the firmness and / or density and / or thickness and / or elasticity of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0198] Advantageously, the particles according to the application or the compositions comprising them are intended for application to all or part of the body and / or face and / or scalp, preferably to all or part of the legs, feet, armpits, hands, neck, front chest, abdomen, arms, thighs, hips, buttocks, waist, again preferably to all or part of the face, and preferably to the cheeks, forehead, chin, lips, eye contour.

[0199] Advantageously, the particles and / or the compositions comprising them and / or the aqueous suspension are intended for application to areas of healthy tissue exhibiting sagging and / or drooping and / or areas of healthy tissue lacking tonicity.

[0200] Thus, advantageously, the cosmetic composition is intended for topical application to healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0201] Alternatively, the particles according to the application can be present in all galenical forms usually used for topical application.

[0202] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic care method according to the application makes it possible for the particles to be in the form of an aqueous suspension according to the application added to a cosmetic composition, said aqueous suspension being present in an amount of between 1 x 10 -4 % and 15% (w / w), preferably 1 x 10 -2at a concentration ranging from 0.01% to 10% (w / w), advantageously from 0.01% to 6% (w / w), more preferentially from 0.1% to 4% (w / w), even more preferentially from 1% to 3% (w / w), in a composition also comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient.

[0203] The present application also relates to the particles or to the aqueous suspensions of the application, or to the skin compositions comprising them, for topical use for treating and / or preventing and / or attenuating the occurrence of pathological conditions associated with pathological skin and / or pathological mucous membranes, such as candidiasis, impetigo, eczema, acne, telangiectasia, skin porosity, Ehlers-Danlos syndrome, osteogenesis imperfecta, solar elastosis, xeroderma senile, diabetes, tetraplegia, skin exfoliation syndrome, psoriasis, atopic dermatitis and / or cutis laxa pathology.

[0204] For the purposes of the present application, the term "skin composition" means a composition intended to prevent the occurrence of a pathology and / or to treat pathological skin and / or pathological mucous membranes associated with a loss of elasticity and / or firmness and / or density due to a pathology.

[0205] According to one embodiment, the particles or the aqueous suspensions of the application are characterized in that they are in the form of a skin composition comprising at least one skin-acceptable excipient.

[0206] In particular, the particles are particles of the application, more particularly as described and / or defined hereinabove in the present specification. Similarly, the aqueous suspensions are in particular aqueous suspensions of the application, more particularly as described and / or defined hereinabove in the present specification.

[0207] According to one embodiment, the skin composition comprises the particles of the application in the form of an aqueous suspension of the application at a concentration ranging from 1 x 10 -3 from 1 x 10 -2 at a concentration ranging from 0.01% to 10% (w / w), advantageously from 0.01% to 6% (w / w), more preferentially from 0.1% to 4% (w / w), even more preferentially from 1% to 3% (w / w), in a composition also comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0208] The application will be better understood by reading the description of the following examples.

[0209] The following examples are given in relation to the description of the application. These examples are given for illustrative purposes and in no way limit the scope of the application. Each example has a general scope.

[0210] The examples are an integral part of the application and any feature that is new relative to any prior art state, from the entire description including the examples, is an integral part of the application.

[0211] On the other hand, in the examples, all percentages are percentages by weight, unless otherwise stated, and the temperatures are expressed in degrees Celsius, unless otherwise stated.

[0212] Example

[0213] Example 1 : Method for preparing the granules of the present application comprising vitamin E, TT and cetyl palmitate Example 2: Size measurement of the granules of the present application obtained according to Example 1

[0214] a) Preparation of phase A:

[0215] 7.5 g of Rétinol 50 (50% Retinol and 50% Polysorbate 20) in crystalline liquid form, 0.62 g of DL Alpha Tocopherol in powder form and 15 g of Cetyl Palmitate in granular form are mixed at room temperature. SE-PF, 7.5 g of Rétinol 50 (50% Retinol and 50% Polysorbate 20) in crystalline liquid form, 0.62 g of DL Alpha Tocopherol in powder form and 15 g of Cetyl Palmitate in granular form are mixed at room temperature. B1 solid wax, 0.62 g of DL Alpha Tocopherol in powder form and 15 g of Cetyl Palmitate in granular form are mixed at room temperature. TT and 15 g of Cetyl Palmitate in granular form are heated to 80°C ± 2°C under light-protected conditions and mixed.

[0216] The mixture is stirred at a temperature of 80°C for 1 hour to completely melt the wax and obtain a homogeneous mixture.

[0217] b) Preparation of phase B:

[0218] 10.16 g of Rétinol 50 (50% Retinol and 50% Polysorbate 20) in crystalline liquid form and 0.34 g of DL Alpha Tocopherol in liquid form are mixed at room temperature.

[0219] c) Phase A and phase B are mixed at a temperature of 80°C ± 2°C under stirring at 500 rpm for up to 5 minutes.

[0220] d) Preparation of phase C:

[0221] 43.78 g of water and 12.5 g of glycerol in liquid form are mixed and then heated to 80°C ± 2°C.

[0222] e) Phase C is then added to the mixture obtained in c) and everything is mixed under stirring at 500 rpm to obtain an emulsion.

[0223] f) The emulsion obtained in step e) is naturally cooled while being stirred with a rayneri. When the mixture reaches a temperature of 65-70°C, it is in the form of a translucent gel. When the gel reaches a temperature of 60°C, a light yellow emulsion is formed;

[0224] g) when the emulsion obtained in step f) reaches a temperature of 50°C ± 5°C, 0.6 g of SG is added to the emulsion;

[0225] h) when the mixture obtained in step g) reaches a temperature of 40°C ± 5°C, 1.5 g of pentylene glycol is added to the mixture;

[0226] i) when the mixture obtained in step h) reaches a temperature of less than 40°C, 0.5 g of Neutrol TE is added to the mixture.

[0227] The pH of the product obtained in i) is 9 ± 0.1.

[0228] The product obtained in i) is an aqueous solution comprising the particles of the application.

[0229]

[0230]

[0231] Mean size (nm)

[0232] i) 1 g of the product obtained according to example 1 is diluted in 50 mL of osmosed water. The mixture is kept at room temperature for 5 hours 30 minutes under magnetic stirring.

[0233] ii) 100 μL taken from the mixture obtained in i) is mixed with 10 mL of osmosed water to read the particle size reading.

[0234] The particle size is measured using a Malvern DLS ZS90. The size of the particles obtained is 295 nm with a polydispersity of 0.255.

[0235] Polydispersity Test 1 Test 2 444 0.338 Test 3 373 0.243 Mean value 393 0.249 Example 3: Measurement of the amount of retinol in the granules of the present application obtained according to Example 1 403 0.277

[0236] Example 4: Stability study of retinol in the granules of the present application and in the granules obtained according to Example 1 not containing

[0237] Sample preparation:

[0238] 200 mg of the product obtained according to example 1 and 5 mL of water are mixed by ultrasound for 2 minutes then made up to 25 mL with tetrahydrofuran.

[0239] The resulting mixture is eluted in column with acetonitrile alone or mixed with water as mobile phase at 0.6 mL / minute linear gradient. The elution starts at T0 with a mixture of 70% acetonitrile and 30% water, gradually reaching a mobile phase of 100% acetonitrile at 12 minutes. The mobile phase composition is maintained for 8 minutes then returned to the initial conditions of the mobile phase, i.e. a mixture of 70% acetonitrile and 30% water at 32 minutes. Finally, the mobile phase composition is maintained for 5 minutes.

[0240] The retinol content in the particles was determined by HPLC using an Agilent 1260 Infinity diode array detector device (Agilent Technologies Inc., USA) with an Agilent Thermo C30 column, 150 × 3 mm (1-49#), at 35 °C.

[0241] The injection volume was 2 μL, and retinol was detected at 325 nm (retinol retention time was 5-6 minutes).

[0242] The product obtained according to Example 1 was quantified. 4.89% retinol was measured in the particles of the present invention.

[0243] TT Example 5: Stability study of retinol in the granules of the present application and in the granules obtained according to Example 1 not containing TT added to a cosmetic formulation

[0244] The particles of the present invention were obtained according to Example 1.

[0245] Prepare a product free of [substance] according to the method of Example 1. TT granules, of which 0.62g TT was replaced with 0.62g of tocopherol. The method and other components were the same.

[0246] Each product obtained, the particles of the present invention and those without TT granules were divided into three batches and stored in PET bottles covered with aluminum foil, without the use of inert gas, at 4°C, 25°C, and 40°C, respectively. The vials were opened at each stability measurement time point: t0, t=1 month, t=2 months, t=3 months, and t=6 months. The stability study was conducted for 6 months. The retinol content was determined according to the method described in Example 3.

[0247]

[0248] The particles of the present invention exhibit higher retinol content over time during storage at 40°C, and after 3 and 6 months. When stored at 4°C, 25°C, and 40°C, respectively, the particles of the present invention also exhibit higher retinol content after 6 months.

[0249] Therefore, in the particles of this invention The presence of TT can increase the stability of retinol in the particles of the present invention over time, preferably 6 months, regardless of storage temperature.

[0250] Example 6: Inflammation / irritation test of free retinol and retinol in the granules of the present application IL-8 expression (%) Standard deviation (%)

[0251] The granules of the application were obtained according to example 1 and added to a cosmetic makeup composition at a concentration of 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic makeup composition.

[0252] The granules of the application were obtained according to example 1 and added to a cosmetic makeup composition at a concentration of 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic makeup composition. The granules of the application were obtained according to example 1 and added to a cosmetic makeup composition at a concentration of 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic makeup composition.

[0253] Two compositions of unencapsulated (free) retinol were used as controls:

[0254] - a composition of unencapsulated (free) retinol formulated with the same antioxidant (BHT) as in the granules of the application, was added to a cosmetic makeup composition having a concentration of 0.21% by weight of retinol (in the form of retinol provided by BASF, formulated with 49.11% by weight of polysorbate 20, 47.6% by weight of retinol and 3.29% by weight of tocopherol relative to the total weight of the retinol composition provided by BASF) and a concentration of 0.0124% by weight of BHT relative to the total weight of the cosmetic makeup composition. - a composition of unencapsulated (free) retinol formulated with the same antioxidant (BHT) as in the granules of the application, was added to a cosmetic makeup composition having a concentration of 0.21% by weight of retinol (in the form of retinol provided by BASF, formulated with 49.11% by weight of polysorbate 20, 47.6% by weight of retinol and 3.29% by weight of tocopherol relative to the total weight of the retinol composition provided by BASF) and a concentration of 0.0124% by weight of BHT relative to the total weight of the cosmetic makeup composition. - a composition of unencapsulated (free) retinol formulated with the same antioxidant (BHT) as in the granules of the application, was added to a cosmetic makeup composition having a concentration of 0.21% by weight of retinol (in the form of retinol provided by BASF, formulated with 49.11% by weight of polysorbate 20, 47.6% by weight of retinol and 3.29% by weight of tocopherol relative to the total weight of the retinol composition provided by BASF) and a concentration of 0.0124% by weight of BHT relative to the total weight of the cosmetic makeup composition.

[0255] - a composition of unencapsulated (free) retinol formulated with the same antioxidant (BHT) as in the granules of the application, was added to a cosmetic makeup composition having a concentration of 0.21% by weight of retinol (in the form of retinol provided by BASF, formulated with 49.11% by weight of polysorbate 20, 47.6% by weight of retinol and 3.29% by weight of tocopherol relative to the total weight of the retinol composition provided by BASF) and a concentration of 0.0124% by weight of BHT relative to the total weight of the cosmetic makeup composition. - a composition of unencapsulated (free) retinol formulated with the same antioxidant (BHT) as in the granules of the application, was added to a cosmetic makeup composition having a concentration of 0.21% by weight of retinol (in the form of retinol provided by BASF, formulated with 49.11% by weight of polysorbate 20, 47.6% by weight of retinol and 3.29% by weight of tocopherol relative to the total weight of the retinol composition provided by BASF) and a concentration of 0.0124% by weight of BHT relative to the total weight of the cosmetic makeup composition.

[0256] The cosmetic makeup compositions were formulated at a temperature lower than 30°C.

[0257]

[0258]

[0259] Each product was stored in a plastic bottle (PET) covered with aluminum foil, without inert gas, and stored at 25°C and 40°C respectively, the stability study being carried out for 3 months, the vials being opened at each stability measurement time point to, to = 1 month, t = 2 months, t = 3 months. The determination of the retinol content was carried out according to the method described in example 3.

[0260] The results showing the changes in retinol content in different compositions are shown below.

[0261]

[0262] After being stored at 40°C for one month, it was compared with other products containing free retinol or lacking retinol. TT particles in cosmetic compositions (containing free retinol and tocopherol, respectively, and containing deficient retinol) TT particles, and those containing free retinol, tocopherol, and Compared to TT's cosmetic compositions (which contain 67%, 80%, and 73% of the initial retinol content), the cosmetic compositions containing the particles of the present invention (which contain 88% of the initial retinol content) achieved better results.

[0263] After being stored at 25°C for 2 months, it was compared with other products containing free retinol or lacking retinol. TT particles in cosmetic compositions (containing free retinol and tocopherol, respectively, and containing deficient retinol) TT particles, and those containing free retinol, tocopherol, and Compared to TT's cosmetic compositions (containing 78%, 90%, and 91% of the initial retinol content), cosmetic compositions containing the particles of the present invention (containing 100% of the initial retinol content) achieved better results. The same trend was observed after storage at 40°C for 2 months.

[0264] After being stored at 25°C for 3 months, it was compared with other products containing free retinol or lacking retinol. TT particles in cosmetic compositions (containing free retinol and tocopherol, respectively, and containing deficient retinol) TT particles, and those containing free retinol, tocopherol, and Compared to TT's cosmetic compositions (which contained 67%, 80%, and 82% of the initial retinol content), the cosmetic compositions containing the particles of the present invention (which contained 100% of the initial retinol content) achieved better results. The same trend was observed after storage at 40°C for 3 months.

[0265] Therefore, with the presence of deficiency Compared to TT particles or free (unencapsulated) retinol compositions formulated with one or two antioxidants, the particles of the present invention can better maintain the initial retinol content in cosmetic compositions over time.

[0266] p relative to NT

[0267] 1. Materials and Methods:

[0268] Retinol has been shown to induce an increase in the expression of IL-8, a proinflammatory mediator responsible for retinol-induced skin irritation (B.-H. Kim et al. / Toxicology Letters 146 (2003) 65-73), in epidermal cells and fibroblasts.

[0269] 1.1 Cell culture and sample treatment

[0270] Normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDF) were cultured in DMEM medium supplemented with 10% heat-inactivated fetal bovine serum and 1% penicillin / streptomycin / amphotericin B at 37°C under controlled atmosphere (95% air and 5% C02).

[0271] When 80-90% confluence was reached, NHDF cells were detached and seeded onto multiple 96-well plates at a density of 5,000 cells per well. Cells were treated for 48 hours (n=3) with the following samples to be evaluated:

[0272] - untreated control NT

[0273] - a mixture comprising 0.005% of particles containing TT (encapsulated, content 0.62% by weight) and 0.00025% by weight of free retinol, in the form of retinol provided by BASF, previously formulated with 49.11% by weight of polysorbate 20, 47.6% by weight of retinol and 3.29% by weight of tocopherol.

[0274] - 0.005% of particles of the application, corresponding to 0.00025% of pure retinol, prepared according to Example 1.

[0275]

[0276] 1.2 Analysis of pro-inflammatory proteins by ELISA

[0277] After 48 hours of treatment, cell supernatants were collected and the concentration of IL-8 was measured using an ELISA kit according to the manufacturer's instructions (IL-8 ELISA Kit (R&D Systems)).

[0278] The amount of IL-8 was quantified by reading the absorbance at 450 nm using a microplate reader.

[0279] 1.3 Statistics

[0280] Data are expressed as mean ± SD and analyzed with Student t test * **p<0.01.

[0281] 2. Results:

[0282] The results are shown in the table. The level of interleukin-8 secreted by the NHDF, i.e. evidence of inflammation, was comparable between the untreated NT control sample and the sample treated with the particles of the application (100% vs 102.7%). Whereas the sample treated with free retinol showed a significant increase in the level of interleukin-8 secreted by the NHDF (147.4%).

[0283] The particles of the application make it possible to inhibit the inflammation and / or irritation induced by retinol on the skin and / or mucous membranes.

[0284] The effect of the test samples on the expression of IL-8 in NHDF was tested.

[0285] p relative to sample 1 NT (not treated) Retinol in free form Granules of the present application Example 7: Cosmetic and / or dermatological active ingredients comprising the granules of the present application 100.0％ 7.5％ / / Active ingredient #1 147.4％ 6.8％ 0.00808** / Active ingredient #2 102.7％ 7.8％ 0.77664 0.00382**

[0286] Example 8: Cosmetic and / or dermatological composition formulated with a cosmetic and / or dermatological active ingredient comprising the granules of the present application

[0287] ​

[0288]

[0289] ​

[0290]

[0291]

[0292] ​

[0293]

Claims

1. Granules containing retinol, cetyl palmitate, glyceryl stearate, cetearyl alcohol polyether-20, cetearyl alcohol polyether-12, cetearyl alcohol, tocopherol and pentaerythritol tetra-di-tert-butylhydrocinnamate.

2. The particles according to claim 1, comprising 1% to 25% by weight of retinol relative to the total weight of the particles, preferably 5% to 20% by weight of retinol, more preferably 10% to 14% by weight of retinol.

3. The particles according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising 5% to 60% by weight of cetyl palmitate relative to the total weight of the particles, preferably 15% to 50% by weight, more preferably 25% to 45% by weight, and advantageously 30% to 40% by weight.

4. The particles according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising 0.001% to 8% by weight of tocopherol relative to the total weight of the particles, preferably 0.01% to 4% by weight of tocopherol, more preferably 0.1% to 2% by weight of tocopherol.

5. The particles according to any one of the preceding claims, having an average size of 100nm-900nm, preferably 150nm-750nm, more preferably 300nm-500nm.

6. The particles according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that... The particles were obtained using phase transition temperature technology.

7. An aqueous suspension comprising particles as defined in any one of claims 1 to 6 in an aqueous solution, wherein, advantageously, the aqueous solution comprises water and glycerol.

8. A cosmetic composition for topical application, comprising particles as defined in any one of claims 1 to 6 or an aqueous suspension as defined in claim 7, and at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient, wherein the content of said particles or aqueous suspension relative to the total weight of the composition is preferably 1 × 10⁻⁶. -4 %-15% (p / p), preferably 1×10 -2 %-10% (p / p), advantageously 0.01%-6% (p / p), more preferably 0.1%-4% (p / p), and even more preferably 1%-3% (w / w).

9. The cosmetic use of particles as defined in any one of claims 1 to 6, or the aqueous suspension as defined in claim 7, or the cosmetic composition as defined in claim 8, for preventing and / or reducing aging of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, and / or maintaining and / or increasing the biomechanical properties of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, and / or maintaining and / or increasing the barrier function of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

10. The cosmetic use according to claim 9, for maintaining and / or increasing the firmness and / or elasticity and / or thickness and / or density of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

11. The cosmetic use according to any one of claims 9 or 10, characterized in that, The particles are intended to be applied to all or part of the body and / or face and / or scalp, preferably the legs, thighs, arms, abdomen, chest, neck, armpits, lips, and even more preferably all or part of the face, and preferably the cheeks, forehead, chin, lips, and eye contours, especially the angular areas of the cheeks and / or face, more preferably in areas of skin exhibiting biomechanical loss, particularly sagging, and / or loose skin areas and / or skin areas lacking tone.

12. A skin composition for topical application, comprising particles as defined in any one of claims 1 to 6 or an aqueous suspension as defined in claim 7, and at least one skin-acceptable excipient.

13. The skin composition according to claim 12, characterized in that, The particles or the aqueous suspension are at a concentration of 1 × 10⁻⁶ relative to the total weight of the skin composition. -4 % to 15% (w / w), preferably 1×10 -2 The concentration is present in the skin composition at % to 10% (w / w), advantageously 0.01% to 6% (w / w), more preferably 0.1% to 4% (w / w), and even more preferably 1% to 3% (w / w).

14. The particles as defined in any one of claims 1 to 6, or the aqueous suspension as defined in claim 7, or the skin composition comprising them as defined in claim 12 or 13, for preventing and / or treating pathological skin and / or pathological mucous membranes associated with loss of elasticity and / or firmness and / or density, said loss being caused by pathologies such as candidiasis, impetigo, eczema, acne, telangiectasia, polypores of the skin, Ehlers-Danlos syndrome, osteogenesis imperfecta, solar elastin degeneration, senile xerosis, diabetes, quadriplegia, exfoliative dermatitis, psoriasis, atopic dermatitis, and / or skin laxity pathology.

15. A method for preparing particles according to any one of claims 1 to 6 or an aqueous suspension according to claim 7, characterized in that, The particles were obtained using phase transition temperature technology.

16. The preparation method according to claim 15, characterized in that, The method includes the following steps: a) Cetyl palmitate, glyceryl stearate, cetearyl alcohol polyether-20, cetearyl alcohol polyether-12, cetearyl alcohol, sodium stearoyl glutamate and pentaerythritol tetra-di-tert-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate are mixed and heated to a temperature of 60℃-100℃ in the dark to form phase A; b) Phase B was prepared by mixing retinol and tocopherol at room temperature; c) Mix phase A and phase B at a temperature of 60℃-100℃ to obtain a homogeneous product; d) Heat the C phase containing water and glycerol to a temperature of 60°C-100°C; e) Mix phase C with the product obtained at the end of step c) to obtain an emulsion; f) Cool the emulsion obtained at the end of step e) to a temperature of 35°C to 55°C; g) Add the D phase containing sodium stearoyl glutamate to the cooled emulsion obtained at the end of step f), and mix all at a temperature of 35°C to 55°C to obtain a homogeneous solution containing particles, which is equivalent to an aqueous suspension.

17. The preparation method according to claim 16, characterized in that... The solution obtained at the end of step g) has a pH of 7-11, preferably 7-10.

18. A method for cosmetic care of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, characterized in that, The method comprises topically applying particles as defined in claims 1 to 6, an aqueous suspension as defined in claim 7, or a cosmetic composition comprising them as defined in claim 8 to at least one area of ​​healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

19. The cosmetic care method according to claim 18, used to prevent and / or reduce aging of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, and / or maintain and / or increase the biomechanical properties of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, and / or maintain and / or increase the barrier function of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

20. A cosmetic care method according to any one of claims 18 or 19, for maintaining and / or increasing the firmness and / or density and / or thickness and / or elasticity of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

21. The cosmetic care method according to any one of claims 18 to 20, characterized in that, It can be applied to all or part of the body and / or face and / or scalp, preferably the legs, feet, armpits, hands, neck, chest, abdomen, arms, thighs, hips, buttocks, and waist, and even more preferably all or part of the face, and preferably the cheeks, forehead, chin, lips, and eye contours.

22. The cosmetic care method according to any one of claims 18 to 21, the method comprising the following steps: - Identify on an individual areas of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes where it is desired to prevent and / or mitigate aging, and / or maintain and / or increase biomechanical properties, and / or maintain and / or increase barrier function. - Apply topically to the area of ​​healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes an effective amount of the particles according to any one of claims 1 to 6, or the aqueous suspension according to claim 7, or the composition according to claim 8, in the form of an active ingredient or a cosmetic composition comprising them.

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