Foaming makeup remover
By using compositions in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion in cosmetics, combining alkyl polyglucosides and clay or polysaccharide glues, the shortcomings of existing cosmetic makeup removal compositions in foaming performance and comfort are solved, and the water-based and Effective removal of anhydrous cosmetics.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- CN202180036402.5
- Authority / Receiving Office
- CN · China
- Patent Type
- Patents(China)
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2020-04-22
- Filing Date
- 2021-04-21
- Publication Date
- 2024-12-17
- Estimated Expiration
- 2041-04-21
AI Technical Summary
Existing cosmetic makeup removal compositions are difficult to simultaneously have good foaming properties, comfort and skin protection, especially in removing water and anhydrous cosmetics.
Formulate a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion containing 35% to 60% of the lipophilic phase, a nonionic hydrophilic surfactant and 0.3% to 0.8% of the gelling agent using alkyl polyglucosides and Clay or polysaccharide glue acts as the main ingredient to form foam to remove cosmetics.
It achieves good foaming performance and comfort, while effectively removing water-based and anhydrous cosmetics, providing better cleaning results.
Smart Images

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Abstract
Description
Technical Field
[0001] The present invention particularly relates to a cosmetic composition and use of the cosmetic composition for removing makeup from keratin materials. Background Art
[0002] Skin cleansing is an essential step in facial care. Skin cleansing should be performed every day. Skin cleansing removes impurities, dirt and makeup residues.
[0003] Among the numerous cosmetic compositions for removing makeup, cleansing foam has the advantages of being mild and refreshing.
[0004] However, it is difficult to formulate a make-up removing foam that is both comfortable to the skin and has good make-up removing performance.
[0005] Therefore, foaming makeup removers in the form of oil-in-water emulsions are comfortable to use due to their oil phase, but have very poor foaming properties.
[0006] In contrast, compositions such as foaming gels containing high levels of foaming surfactants have good foaming properties but are more aggressive to the skin than oil-in-water emulsions.
[0007] In this context, there is a need for a cosmetic make-up removal composition having one or more of the following properties:
[0008] - Effective in removing water-based and anhydrous makeup.
[0009] -Easy to apply,
[0010] -Good foam forming ability,
[0011] - Comfortable to apply. Summary of the invention
[0012] To meet this need, the present inventors have formulated a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion with a high proportion of oil, which has good foaming properties and is easy to apply. The cosmetic composition forms foam during makeup removal, which foam breaks and can remove both aqueous and anhydrous cosmetics.
[0013] The object of the present invention is therefore a cosmetic composition for removing make-up in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising:
[0014] - a lipophilic phase, comprising a lipophilic phase in an amount ranging from 35% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,
[0015] - a nonionic hydrophilic surfactant component, the nonionic hydrophilic surfactant component comprising at least one alkyl polyglucoside,
[0016] - at least one gelling agent, the gelling agent being present in an amount ranging from 0.3% to 0.8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, the gelling agent being:
[0017] - at least one clay and / or
[0018] - At least one polysaccharide gum. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
[0019] Figure 1 A comparison of the cleaning results of a cleansing composition according to an embodiment of the present invention and a commercially available makeup remover on a waterless lipstick (Powermatte Lip Pigment by NARS Cosmetics), an aqueous waterproof mascara (Lash augmented mascara by Nocibé), and a colored lip gloss (Lip Tattoo by Dior Addict) is shown. DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0020] definition
[0021] The expression “between… and…” must include inclusive limits.
[0022] Throughout this application and unless otherwise indicated, percentages are by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0023] Cosmetic composition
[0024] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition as defined above.
[0025] Typically, the cosmetic composition according to the invention foams.
[0026] It may be in the form of a single-phase fluid emulsion, such as milk, or multiple phases, such as an oil / emulsion two-phase emulsion. It may also be in the form of a foam when a gas, preferably air, is dispersed in the composition.
[0027] Lipophilic phase
[0028] As described below, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.
[0029] Oil-in-water emulsions comprise a lipophilic phase dispersed in a hydrophilic phase.
[0030] The lipophilic phase, also called the oil phase or the fat phase, consists of the lipophilic ingredients, eg the oils and other lipophiles present in the composition, and any lipophilic additives that may be present.
[0031] The lipophilic phase is included in an amount ranging from 35% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the lipophilic phase is included in an amount ranging from 45% to 55% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0032] Advantageously, the lipophilic phase comprises at least one oil, especially a cosmetic oil. "Oil" is understood to mean a fatty body that is liquid at ambient temperature.
[0033] The oil may be chosen from mineral oil, vegetable oil or synthetic oil.
[0034] For example, the oil may be selected from the group consisting of alkanes such as paraffin, petrolatum, isohexadecane and isododecane, fatty acid esters, fatty ethers or mixtures of these.
[0035] According to a preferred embodiment, the oil is a fatty acid ester or a mixture of fatty acid esters.
[0036] Preferably, the composition does not comprise any fatty alcohol.
[0037] Examples of fatty esters include CETIOL NIKKOL CRODAMOL PTISTM and LIPONATE
[0038] Hydrophilic phase
[0039] Advantageously, the hydrophilic phase comprises water and may therefore also be referred to as the aqueous phase.
[0040] In addition to water, the hydrophilic phase may also comprise other hydrophilic solvents, such as alcohols (eg ethanol or isopropanol).
[0041] The hydrophilic phase also contains hydrophilic compounds in addition to the hydrophilic solvent.
[0042] According to a preferred embodiment, the oil / water ratio is comprised between 0.5 and 1.5.
[0043] Surfactants
[0044] The composition according to the present invention comprises a nonionic hydrophilic surfactant package.
[0045] According to a preferred embodiment, the surfactant composition is included in an amount ranging from 5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0046] Advantageously, the surfactant combination comprises a hydrophile-lipophile balance (HLB) value of between 12 and 18, more preferably between 14 and 16.
[0047] The hydrophile-lipophile balance (HLB) of a surfactant is a measure of its degree of hydrophilicity or lipophilicity that is well known to those skilled in the art (Griffin, William C. (1949), "Classification of Surfactants by 'HLB'" (PDF), Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, 1(5):311-26; Griffin, William C. (1954), "Calculation of HLB Values of Nonionic Surfactants", Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, 5(4):249-56, The HLB System: A Guide to Quick Emulsifier Selection (Published by ICI Americas Inc; 1984).
[0048] The inclusion of a surfactant package having an HLB of between 12 and 18 and more preferably between 14 and 16 allows obtaining a composition having good foam forming ability.
[0049] The surfactant combination comprises at least one alkyl polyglucoside. Alkyl polyglucosides are known to those skilled in the art. Preferably, their molecular formula is [C 6 H 11 O 5 ][C 6 H 10 O 5 ] n OR, wherein R is an alkyl group having 1 to 20 carbon atoms, more preferably 8 to 14 carbon atoms, and n is an average value of 0 or greater.
[0050] According to a preferred embodiment, the surfactant package component does not comprise any amphoteric surfactants.
[0051] Gelling Agent
[0052] As mentioned above, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention has a gelling agent, and the weight content of the gelling agent contained is between 0.3% and 0.8% relative to the total weight of the composition. More preferably, the weight content of the gelling agent contained is between 0.4% and 0.6% relative to the total weight of the composition, and even more preferably, it is 0.5%.
[0053] Generally, if the concentration of the gelling agent is too high, the cosmetic composition will be too viscous and will not form foam. If the concentration of the gelling agent is too low, the emulsion will be unstable.
[0054] Thus, the concentration of the gelling agent allows obtaining the desired viscosity of the cosmetic composition, which thus has a good ability to form foam and to form a stable emulsion.
[0055] Thus, preferably, the viscosity of the cosmetic composition according to the invention, measured at ambient temperature for a time t=60 seconds using a measuring device of the RM 100 PLUS LAMYRHEOLOGY type, is between 200 cP and 400 cP.
[0056] The at least one gelling agent of the cosmetic composition according to the invention is at least one clay and / or at least one polysaccharide gum.
[0057] The clay may be selected from a combination consisting of bentonite, montmorillonite, talc, hectorite, fluorohectorite, beidellite, nontronite, vermiculite, halloysite, moroccan clay, stevensite and mixtures of these. Preferably, the clay is hectorite, bentonite, montmorillonite and / or mixtures of these. These clays are in fact commonly used as agents for controlling viscosity in cosmetic products. More preferably, the clay is hectorite.
[0058] The polysaccharide gum may be selected from the group consisting of xanthan gum, tara gum, carrageenan, gellan gum, rhizobium gum, microsclerotium gum and mixtures of these. Preferably, the polysaccharide gum is xanthan gum.
[0059] According to a preferred embodiment, at least one gelling agent of the cosmetic composition is clay, more preferably hectorite.Therefore, the cosmetic composition has better stability and better foam forming ability.
[0060] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention does not comprise any copolymer or polymer having ethylenic unsaturation, crosslinked with monomers, cationically or anionically, such as carbomers.
[0061] other
[0062] The cosmetic composition may also contain any other compound useful in the cosmetic field.
[0063] Thus, for example, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise active ingredients such as moisturizers, anti-aging agents, anti-seborrheic agents, preservatives, vitamins, antioxidants, trace elements and / or fragrances.
[0064] Foam dispensing device
[0065] The invention also relates to a foam-dispensing device comprising a can comprising a cosmetic composition according to the invention.
[0066] Foam dispensing devices are commonly found in commerce (WO97 / 13585, EP0613728). Typically, in addition to their canister, foam dispensing devices also comprise a foam forming device. The foam forming device allows the gas in the canister to be dispersed into the liquid.
[0067] In this case, therefore, the foam-dispensing device comprises foam-forming means for dispersing the gas in the reservoir into the cosmetic composition.
[0068] Preferably, the foam-dispensing device does not comprise any propellant gas.The foam is formed by dispersing air into the cosmetic composition.
[0069] use
[0070] The invention also relates to the cosmetic use of a cosmetic composition as defined above as a make-up removal product.
[0071] The invention also relates to a method for removing make-up from keratin materials, wherein the keratin materials are selected from the group consisting of skin, lips, hair, eyelashes and eyebrows, wherein a cosmetic composition as defined above is applied to the keratin materials.
[0072] Preferably, the keratin material to be cleansed by the cosmetic composition according to the invention is the skin, the lips, the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows.
[0073] According to a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is a makeup remover. It can be used to remove any type of makeup, such as lipstick, foundation, mascara and / or eye shadow. The cosmetic composition according to the present invention has the advantage of being able to remove both water-based and oily makeup.
[0074] The present invention will be further described by the accompanying drawings and the following examples. However, the accompanying drawings and these examples should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.
[0075] Example
[0076] Materials and methods
[0077] Water and gelling agent were placed in a 250 ml beaker and the composition was then stirred for 10 minutes at 600 rpm by means of a TURBOTEST EVORAYNERI apparatus equipped with a slotted stator to form a gel which was placed in the centre of the beaker.
[0078] The surfactant was then added to the gel obtained and the combined ingredients, which were placed in the center of the beaker, were then homogenously mixed for 5 minutes at 600 revolutions per minute using a TURBOTEST EVO RAYNERI apparatus equipped with a slotted stator.
[0079] Then, an emulsion was made by injecting little by little the fat phase previously homogeneously mixed in the hydrophilic phase, still stirring at 3300 rpm for 5 minutes using the TURBOTEST EVO RAYNERI apparatus equipped with a slotted stator, which was placed in the center of the beaker.
[0080] Finally, the formulation was added to the emulsion obtained and the combined ingredients were then homogenously mixed for 5 minutes at 3000 revolutions per minute using a TURBOTEST EVORAYNERI apparatus equipped with a slotted stator, the combined ingredients being placed in the center of the beaker.
[0081] The viscosity of the obtained emulsion was then measured at ambient temperature for a time of t=60 seconds using an RM 100 PLUS LAMY RHEOLOGY viscometer with the following parameters:
[0082] - Measuring system MS-R3; at 45 rpm, contains emulsions with viscosities ranging from 72 cP to 21,600,000 cP
[0083] - Measuring system MS-DIN 11; at 193.65 rpm, for emulsions with viscosities between 3 cP and 1,000,000 cP
[0084] Finally, the obtained emulsion was poured into a foam pump without using a propellant gas type package, and it was observed whether foam was obtained.
[0085] If a composition tested by this method foams, the foaming performance of the composition tested is considered acceptable and useful.
[0086] result
[0087] Foaming performance
[0088] [Table 1]
[0089]
[0090]
[0091] The INCI names of the commercial products used in these three examples are as follows:
[0092] KELTROL CG-F: Xanthan gum
[0093] BENTONE EW CE: Hectorite
[0094] LAPONITE XLG: Lithium Sodium Magnesium Silicate
[0095] CREMOPHOR CO 40: PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil
[0096] ORAMIX CG110: Caprylyl / Decyl Glucoside
[0097] ORAMIX NS10: Decyl Glucoside
[0098] CETIOL C5C: Coco-Caprylate / Caprate
[0099] NIKKOL IPIS: Isopropyl Isostearate
[0100] CRODAMOLPTIS: Pentaerythritol tetraisostearate
[0101] LIPONATE NPGC-2: Neopentyl glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate
[0102] PHYTOFOAM: Water (and) Acacia Quince Fruit Extract (and) Balanites Aegyptiaca Fruit Extract (and) Glechoma Cone Root Extract
[0103] The compositions of Examples 1 to 3 have satisfactory foaming properties, in contrast to the composition of Example 4 and commercial make-up remover foaming gels / creams with polyacrylate type gels.
[0104] Effect of viscosity on foam generation
[0105] The relationship between viscosity and foam generation of different emulsions containing different percentages of the same gelling agent was studied.
[0106] As formulations, the compositions tested had:
[0107] -8.0% of a surfactant combination comprising a surfactant having an average HLB of between 12 and 16 and comprising at least one glucoside surfactant
[0108] - Different concentrations of clay or xanthan gum-based gelling agents
[0109] -50% oily mixture containing either cleansing or moisturizing oils
[0110] - Water (appropriate amount)
[0111] The percentages of gelling agent used were: 0%; 0.2%; 0.5%; 0.8% and 1%.
[0112] The results are summarized in the following table:
[0113] [Table 2]
[0114]
[0115] The results obtained indicate that the test with viscosities greater than about 400 cP failed to produce foam.
[0116] Cleaning performance
[0117] The cleaning performance of the composition of Example 2 is compared with the weight content of these oil phases less than 20% ( Figure 1 ) were used to compare the cleaning performance of commercial cleaning agents.
[0118] The composition of Example 2 shows better cleaning performance on anhydrous lipstick, aqueous waterproof mascara, and colored lip gloss.
Claims
1. A foam makeup remover in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, characterized in that: The foam makeup remover comprises: - a lipophilic phase, wherein the weight content of the lipophilic phase relative to the total weight of the foaming makeup remover is between 35% and 60%, - a surfactant composition, wherein the surfactant composition is a nonionic hydrophilic surfactant combination component, the nonionic hydrophilic surfactant combination component comprises at least one alkyl polyglucoside, and the weight content of the surfactant composition relative to the total weight of the foaming makeup remover is between 5% and 10%, - at least one gelling agent, the gelling agent contained in the foam cleansing product has a weight content of between 0.3% and 0.8% relative to the total weight of the foam cleansing product, and the gelling agent is clay, The hydrophile-lipophile balance (HLB) value of the nonionic hydrophilic surfactant combination component is between 12 and 18.
2. The foam makeup remover according to claim 1, characterized in that: The oil / water ratio contained is between 0.5 and 1.
5.
3. The foam makeup remover according to claim 1, characterized in that: The weight content of the lipophilic phase relative to the total weight of the foam makeup remover is between 45% and 55%.
4. A foam dispensing device, comprising a tank comprising the foaming makeup remover according to any one of claims 1 to 3.
5. Use of the foam makeup remover according to any one of claims 1 to 3 as a makeup remover product.
6. A method for cleaning keratin materials, characterized in that The foaming makeup remover according to any one of claims 1 to 3 is applied onto the keratin material.
