Reduced irritation surfactant compositions

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition for use in a leave-on product, the composition comprising the following components: A) at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from fatty acid esters of polyglycerol or fatty acid esters of ether polyglycerol or fatty acid ethers of polyglycerol; and B) at least one conventional irritating surfactant other than component A); wherein components A) and B) are present in a weight ratio of 1 :3 to 3:1.

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition of surfactants which have significantly reduced irritation, especially for the skin.

[0002] BACKGROUND

[0003] Skin is present on the surface of the human body. Many people have long sought to refresh the surface of the body in order to feel comfortable in daily life and work. The ultimate goal in the field of cosmetics has been to give the product skin benefits such as hydration, moisturization, anti-aging, whitening, cleansing, a smooth feel, and the like.

[0004] It is known that keratinous materials such as skin suffer from aging due to various factors; and thus, the effects of anti-aging can be achieved by various approaches. For example, the stratum corneum (SC) is the outermost layer of the epidermis. Promoting the renewal of the SC can make the skin smoother and brighter, and fine lines or wrinkles on the skin will be less noticeable.

[0005] In particular, skin care products are often provided in leave-on form, which means that the product is in continuous and prolonged contact with the skin. On the other hand, one or more surfactants are added to skin care products for various purposes, especially for leave-on products. For example, irritating surfactants can be used for the desired surface activity. However, it is known that various surfactants can cause irritation to the skin.

[0006] There is therefore still a need in the art to reduce or even avoid irritation caused by various surfactants. SUMMARY

[0008] Through intensive research, the inventors have surprisingly found that by specific use of a composition comprising at least one fatty acid ester of polyglycerol or fatty acid ether of polyglycerol and an irritating surfactant, the composition can show significantly reduced irritation compared to the irritating surfactant alone.

[0009] Thus, one subject of the present invention is a composition comprising:

[0010] at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from fatty acid ester of polyglycerol or fatty acid ether of polyglycerol; and

[0011] at least one conventional irritating surfactant.

[0012] The composition according to the present invention is particularly useful to formulate products for conditioning the skin. Thus, the composition of the present invention can be in various forms, in particular solutions, such as milks, sprays, and the like, to apply to the scalp, directly to the skin.

[0013] Embodiments of the present application

[0014] Throughout the description, including in the claims, the term "comprising" is to be read as meaning "consisting at least of" unless otherwise indicated. Furthermore, the expression "at least one" used in the present description should be equated with the expression "one or more".

[0015] Throughout the description, including in the claims, embodiments defined by "comprising" or "comprised of should be understood as embracing preferred embodiments defined by "consisting essentially of and preferred embodiments defined by "consisting of.

[0016] Except in operating examples, or where otherwise explicitly indicated, all numerical quantities in the description specifying amounts of components and / or reaction conditions are to be understood as modified by the term "about" having its conventional meaning in the art, e.g. within 10% (and preferably within 5%) of the indicated value, e.g. "about 10%" means 9% to 11%, and "about 2%" means 1.8% to 2.2%.

[0017] In the present application, amounts, parts and percentages are all expressed on a weight basis, unless otherwise specifically indicated.

[0018] The present application relates to an aqueous composition for conditioning the skin, the aqueous composition comprising:

[0019] A) at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from fatty acid esters of polyglycerol or fatty acid ethers of polyglycerol; and

[0020] B) at least one conventional irritating surfactant other than component A).

[0021] The present application thus provides the use of a composition for enhancing the surface properties of a cosmetic product, while avoiding or reducing the irritation suffered by the skin.

[0022] Other features and advantages of the present application will become apparent on reading the following description and examples.

[0023] Component A), nonionic surfactant

[0024] The composition according to the present application can preferably comprise at least one non-ionic surfactant, which is preferably selected from fatty acid esters of polyglycerol or fatty acid ethers of polyglycerol.

[0025] As component A) of the composition according to the present application, mono- or polyglycerolated surfactants can be used, which preferably comprise an average of 1 to 30 glycerol groups, more particularly 1 to 10 glycerol groups, and especially 1.5 to 5.

[0026] The monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated surfactant is preferably chosen from the compounds of the following formulae:

[0027] R"O[CH2CH(CH2OH)O] m H,

[0028] R"O[CH2CH(OH)CH2O] m H or

[0029] R"O[CH(CH2OH)CH2O] m H;

[0030] In the said formulae:

[0031] • R" represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, and preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms; m is an integer between 1 and 30, preferably between 1 and 10, and more particularly from 1.5 to 6; R" can optionally comprise heteroatoms, such as oxygen and nitrogen. In particular, R" can optionally comprise one or more hydroxyl and / or ether groups and / or amide groups. R" preferably denotes a monohydroxylated or polyhydroxylated C 10 -C 20 alkyl and / or alkenyl group.

[0032] It is possible to use, for example, the polyglycerolated (3.5 mol) hydroxy lauryl ether sold under the name NF from Chimex.

[0033] The (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols suitable for implementing the application are more particularly chosen from the alcohols containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0034] The (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols more particularly contain one or more linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radicals comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, which are optionally substituted, in particular with one or more (in particular from 1 to 4) hydroxyl groups. If these compounds are unsaturated, they can comprise from 1 to 3 conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0035] The (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols preferably have the following formula (XII):

[0036]

[0037] wherein

[0038] - R3 represents a linear or branched C8-C 40 alkyl or alkenyl group, and preferably a C8-C 30 alkyl or alkenyl group, which is optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, and

[0039] - c is an integer comprised between 1 and 200, inclusive, preferably between 2 and 50, and more particularly between 8 and 30, for example 20.

[0040] According to one embodiment of the application, the composition can comprise at least one fatty acid ester of polyglycerol as non-ionic surfactant.

[0041] According to one preferred embodiment, the fatty acid ester of polyglycerol is chosen from esters resulting from the reaction of polyglycerol comprising from 2 to 12 glycerol units, preferably from 3 to 10 glycerol units, with at least one fatty acid containing from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 20 carbon atoms or from 8 to 18 carbon atoms. The fatty acid containing from 8 to 24 carbon atoms can be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated.

[0042] The fatty acid can be chosen from oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid, linoleic acid, capric acid and caprylic acid, or mixtures thereof.

[0043] The fatty acid ester of polyglycerol can be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters and tetraesters, polyesters, and mixtures thereof. It is preferred to use esters with a low degree of esterification, for example fatty acid monoesters of polyglycerol, fatty acid diesters of polyglycerol or fatty acid triesters of polyglycerol, or mixtures thereof. The fatty acid ester of polyglycerol can be in the form of a mixture of esters with a low degree of esterification, for example a mixture of monoesters and diesters or a mixture of monoesters, diesters and triesters.

[0044] One can notably mention polyglyceryl-2 distearate, notably as sold by NIHON EMULSION under the name Emalex PGSA; polyglyceryl-10 decastearate, notably as sold by TAIYO KAGAKU under the name Sunsoft Q-1810S; polyglyceryl-5 hexastearate, notably as sold by TAIYO KAGAKU under the name Sunsoft A-186E; polyglyceryl-2 laurate, notably as sold by TAIYO KAGAKU under the name Sunsoft Q-12D; polyglyceryl-5 laurate, notably as sold by TAIYO KAGAKU under the name Sunsoft A-121E-C; polyglyceryl-10 pentaoleate, notably as sold by TAIYO KAGAKU under the name Sunsoft Q-175S; polyglyceryl-10 pentastearate, notably as sold by TAIYO KAGAKU under the name Sunsoft Q-185S; polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, notably as sold by EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT under the name Isolan GI 34; diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dimer dilinoleate, notably as sold by EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT under the name Isolan PDI; polyglyceryl-2 oleate, notably as sold by TAIYO KAGAKU under the name Sunsoft Q-17B; polyglyceryl-5 trimyristate, notably as sold by TAIYO KAGAKU under the name Sunsoft A-143E; polyglyceryl-2 caprylate, notably as sold by TAIYO KAGAKU under the name Sunsoft Q-81B; polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate, notably as sold by TAIYO KAGAKU under the name SUNSOFT Q-102H-C.

[0045] Component A) can be present in the composition according to the application in an amount of 0.1 to 20 %, for example 0.5 to 10 % or 1 to 5 %, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the application.

[0046] Component B), conventional irritant surfactant

[0047] For the purposes of the present application, the composition according to the application can comprise at least one conventional irritating surfactant other than the surfactants used for component A) as component B). According to one embodiment of the application, component B) can comprise component B-1 ) which is at least one amphoteric surfactant; component B-2) which is at least one cationic surfactant; and / or component B-3) which is at least one additional non-ionic surfactant other than the surfactants used for component A).

[0048] The term "irritating surfactant" is understood to mean a surfactant having an EpiSkin cell viability equal to or less than 90%, preferably equal to or less than 85% or even equal to or less than 80%. For the purposes of the present application, the EpiSkin cell viability can be determined by the following steps: applying an effective amount of the composition on a reconstructed skin model (i.e. EpiSkin), leaving to stand, and then counting the amount of viable cells, wherein "EpiSkin" is available from L'Oreal under the name EpiSkin®. TM

[0049] Without being bound by any known theory, it is believed that the simultaneous use of component A) with component B) can significantly reduce the irritation, especially on the skin, that can be caused by component B).

[0050] Component B-1), amphoteric surfactant

[0051] According to one embodiment of the present application, the composition according to the present application comprises at least one amphoteric surfactant as component B-1), which can also be called zwitterionic surfactant. In particular, the present application is especially useful with conventional irritating amphoteric surfactants, which preferably have an EpiSkin cell viability equal to or less than 90%, preferably equal to or less than 85% or even equal to or less than 80%.

[0052] The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants that can be used in the present application can be quaternized fatty secondary or tertiary amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, such as carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate groups, and wherein the fatty group or at least one of the fatty groups is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0053] Among the optional quaternized fatty secondary or tertiary amine derivatives that can be used as defined above, mention can also be made of the following compounds of respective structures (III) and (IV):

[0054]

[0055] In said formula (III):

[0056] • R4 represents a C8-C22 alkyl or alkenyl group, or a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group, derived from an acid R4-C(O)-OH preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil; 10 - C 30 alkyl or alkenyl, or heptyl, nonyl or undecyl;

[0057] • R5 represents a β-hydroxyethyl group; and

[0058] • R6 represents a carboxymethyl group;

[0059] and​

[0060]

[0061] wherein:

[0062] • A represents -CH2CH2OX';

[0063] • A' represents -(CH2) z - Y', with z = 1 or 2;

[0064] • X' represents a group -CH2-C(O)-OH, -CH2-C(O)-OZ', -CH2CH2-C(O)-OH, -CH2-CH2-C(O)-OZ' or a hydrogen atom;

[0065] • Y' represents -C(O)-OH, -C(O)-OZ' or a group -CH2-CH(OH)-SO3H or -CH2-CH(OH)-SO3Z';

[0066] • Z' represents an ion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal (such as sodium, potassium or magnesium); an ammonium ion; or an ion derived from an organic amine, and in particular an amino alcohol, such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine, mono-, di- or triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane.

[0067] • R7represents the C 10 - C 30 alkyl or alkenyl group; an alkyl group, in particular C 17 alkyl and isomeric forms thereof, or unsaturated C 17 groups.

[0068] By way of example, mention can be made of N-cocamidopropyl glycinate salts of alkali metal (such as sodium); or cocamidopropyl betaine, sold, for example, under the trade name C2M concentrate by the company Rhodia.

[0069] Mention can be made especially of betaine surfactants, such as (C8-C 20 alkyl betaine, sulfobetaine, (C8-C 20 alkyl)amidopropyl (C2-C8alkyl)betaine and (C8-C 20 alkyl)amidopropyl (C2-C8alkyl)sulfobetaine.

[0070] Among the amphoteric surfactants mentioned above, use is preferably made of cocamidopropyl betaine, cocoyl betaine and N-cocamidyl carboxymethyl glycinate salts of alkali metals, such as sodium.

[0071] According to a particular embodiment of the application, the amphoteric surfactant mentioned above is cocamidopropyl betaine or cocoyl betaine.

[0072] According to an embodiment of the application, among the amphoteric surfactants mentioned above, the application is particularly used for the conventional irritating ones.

[0073] Component B-1 ) can be present in the composition according to the application in an amount ranging from 0.01 % to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight or preferably from 0.1 % to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

[0074] Component B-2), cationic surfactant

[0075] According to an embodiment of the application, the composition of the application can comprise at least one cationic surfactant which can be used as component B-2). Mention can be made, for example, of primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof. In particular, the application is particularly useful for conventional irritating cationic surfactants, which preferably have an EpiSkin cell viability equal to or less than 90%, preferably equal to or less than 85% or even equal to or less than 80%.

[0076] Examples of quaternary ammonium salts that can be mentioned in particular include:

[0077] - a) those complying with the following general formula (V):

[0078]

[0079] In said formula (V), the radicals R8to R 11 which can be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic radical or an aromatic radical, for example an aryl radical or an alkylaryl radical, comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, at least one of the radicals R8to R 11 comprises from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The aliphatic radicals can comprise heteroatoms, for example in particular oxygen, nitrogen, sulphur and halogens. X - is an anionic counterion chosen from halide ions, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulphates and (Ci-C4)alkylsulphonates or (Ci-C4)alkylarylsulphonates, preferably halide ions, for example fluoride, chloride, bromide, and the like.

[0080] aliphatic radical is selected from, for example, C1-C 30 alkyl, C1-C 30 alkoxy, polyoxy(C2-C6)alkylene, C1-C 30 alkylamido, (C 12 -C 22 )alkylamido(C2-C6)alkyl, (C 12 -C 22 )alkylacetate, C1-C 30 hydroxyalkyl.

[0081] Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (V), preference is first given to tetraalkylammonium halides, such as tetraalkylammonium chlorides, for example tetraalkylammonium halides or alkyltrimethylammonium halides, such as dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, in which the alkyl groups contain from about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, especially halides such as behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, benzyldimethylstearyl- ammonium chloride, or, secondly, alkoxysulfates, especially distearyylethyl hydroxyethyl methyl ammonium sulfate, dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethyl methyl ammonium sulfate or distearylethyl hydroxyethyl methyl ammonium sulfate, or, finally, palmitamidopropyltrimethylammonium halides (in particular chloride) or stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate) ammonium chloride, sold under the name Arquad® 2HT-75 by the company Van Dyk; 70;

[0082] - b) quaternary ammonium salts of imidazolines, such as those of formula (VI) below:

[0083]

[0084] in said formula (VI):

[0085] R 12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as a fatty acid derivative of tallow;

[0086] R 13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms;

[0087] R 14 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group;

[0088] R 15 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group;

[0089] X -represent an anionic counterion, which is especially chosen from halide ions, phosphate, acetate, lactate, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfate, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfonate or (Ci-C4)alkyl aryl sulfonate.

[0090] R 12 and R 13 preferably represent a mixture of alkyl or alkenyl groups containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, said alkyl or alkenyl groups being derived from, for example, tallow fatty acid, R 14 preferably represents a methyl group, and R 15 preferably represents a hydrogen atom. Such a product is sold, for example, under the name Rewoquat® W 75 by the company Rewo;

[0091] - c) a quaternary di- or tri-ammonium salt, in particular of formula (VII) below:

[0092]

[0093] in said formula (VII):

[0094] R 16 represents an alkyl group comprising from about 16 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally hydroxylated and / or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms;

[0095] R 17 is chosen from hydrogen, an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group -(CH2)3-N + (R 16a )(R 17a )(R 18a ); R 16a , R 17a , R 18a , R 18 , R 19 , R 20 and R 21 , which can be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and

[0096] X - represents an anionic counterion, which is especially chosen from halide ions, acetate, phosphate, nitrate, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfate, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfonate or (Ci-C4)alkyl aryl sulfonate, especially methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate. Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P (Quaternary Ammonium Salt 89) available from the company Finetex and Finquat CT (Quaternary Ammonium Salt 75) available from the company Finetex;

[0097] ​- d) quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions, such as those of the following formula (VIII):

[0098]

[0099] in said formula (VIII):

[0100] ■ R 22 selected from C1-C6 alkyl and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups;

[0101] ■ R 23 selected from:

[0102] - a group

[0103] - a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based group R 22 hydrocarbon-based group R 27 ,

[0104] - a hydrogen atom;

[0105] ■ R 25 selected from:

[0106] - a group

[0107] - a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based group R 29 ,

[0108] - a hydrogen atom;

[0109] ■ R 24 , R 26 and R 28 which can be identical or different, are selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C15 hydrocarbon-based groups; 21

[0110] ■ r, s and t, which can be identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6;

[0111] ■ r1and t1, which can be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1, with r2+ r1= 2r and t1+ t2= 2t,

[0112] ■ y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10;

[0113] ■ x and z, which can be identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10;

[0114] ■ X - represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion;

[0115] with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is between 1 and 15, and when x is 0, then R 23 ​represents R 27 , and when z is 0, then R 25 represents R 29 .

[0116] alkyl R 22 may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear.

[0117] Preferably, R 22 represents a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.

[0118] Advantageously, the sum x+y+z is between 1 and 10.

[0119] when R 23 is a hydrocarbon-based group R 27 , it can be long and can contain from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or it can be short and can contain from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0120] when R 25 is a hydrocarbon-based group R 29 , it preferably contains from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0121] Advantageously, R 24 , R 26 and R 28 , which can be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 11 -C 21 hydrocarbon-based groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 11 -C 21 alkyl and alkenyl groups.

[0122] Preferably, x and z, which can be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1.

[0123] Advantageously, y is equal to 1.

[0124] Preferably, r, s and t, which can be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly equal to 2.

[0125] The anionic counterion X - for formula (VIII) is preferably a halide, preferably for example a chloride, bromide or iodide; a (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfate or a (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfonate or a (Ci-C4)alkyl aryl sulfonate. However, a methyl sulfonate, a phosphate, a nitrate, a toluene sulfonate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as an acetate or a lactate, or any other anion compatible with an ammonium containing an ester function can be used.

[0126] The anionic counterion X -Even more particularly chlorides, methylsulfates or ethylsulfates.

[0127] Among the ammonium salts of formula (VIII) more particularly used in the composition according to the application are those in which:

[0128] - R represents a methyl or ethyl radical, 22

[0129] - x and y are equal to 1,

[0130] - z is equal to 0 or 1,

[0131] - r, s and t are equal to 2,

[0132] - R represents a methyl or ethyl radical, 23

[0133] • a radical -C(0)OR,

[0134] • a methyl, ethyl or C 14 - C(0)OR, 22 hydrocarbon radical, and more particularly chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C

[0135] • a hydrogen atom,

[0136] - R represents a methyl or ethyl radical, 25

[0137] • a radical -C(0)OR,

[0138] • a hydrogen atom,

[0139] - R represents a methyl or ethyl radical, 24 26 and R 28 which can be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 13 - C(0)OR, 17 hydrocarbon radical, and more particularly chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 13 - C(0)OR, 17 alkyl and alkenyl radicals.

[0140] Advantageously, the hydrocarbon-based radical is linear.

[0141] Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (VIII) containing one or more ester functions, examples that can be mentioned include the salts, in particular the chlorides or methyl sulfates, of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethyihydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium or monoacyloxyethyihydroxyethyldimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably contain from 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are more particularly obtained from a plant oil, such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups can be identical or different.

[0142] ​​​​These products can be obtained, for example, by direct esterification of optionally oxidized olefinic triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyl diethanolamine, or alkyl diisopropanolamine with fatty acids or mixtures of fatty acids of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization with an alkylating agent, such as an alkyl halide, preferably a methyl halide or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably methyl sulfate or ethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl p-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin, or glycerol chlorohydrin.

[0143] Such compounds are, for example, produced by Henkel under the name... By Stepan Company By Ceca company under the name Or by Rewo-Witco under its name WE18 for sale.

[0144] The compositions according to the invention may contain a mixture of quaternary ammonium salts, such as monoesters, diesters and triesters, wherein the diester salt constitutes the majority by weight.

[0145] It may also use ammonium salts containing at least one ester functional group as described in patents US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180.

[0146] Sorbitoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, sold by KAO under the name Quatarmin BTC 131, can be used.

[0147] Preferably, the ammonium salt containing at least one ester functional group contains two ester functional groups.

[0148] Some amines can provide cations when interacting with other reagents, such as certain acids. In such cases, the specific amine can be classified as an available cationic surfactant.

[0149] Preferred examples of available cationic surfactants include non-silicone cationic surfactants, including cetyltriammonium, betaine triammonium, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, distearylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, and methyl (C9-C) 19 )alkyl, (C 10 -C 20 )Alkylamidoethylimidazolium and stearamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldimethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0150] According to a preferred embodiment, the cationic surfactant is a chloride or bromide salt of tetraalkylammonium, alkylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium, trialkylbenzylammonium, trialkylhydroxyalkylammonium, or alkylpyridinium.

[0151] According to one embodiment, among the cationic surfactants which can be present in the composition according to the application, more particular preference is given to choosing stearamidopropyl dimethyl(myristyl acetate) ammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium salts, behenyltrimethylammonium salts and dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethyl methyl ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly stearamidopropyl dimethyl(myristyl acetate) ammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride and dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethyl methyl ammonium sulfate, and mixtures thereof.

[0152] According to one embodiment of the application, among the cationic surfactants mentioned above, the application particularly employs those of the conventional irritant type.

[0153] Component B-2) can be present in the composition according to the application in an amount of from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 5% by weight or from 0.01 to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition according to the application.

[0154] Component B-3), further nonionic surfactant

[0155] According to one embodiment of the application, the composition according to the application comprises at least one additional nonionic surfactant other than the surfactants used for component A), as component B-3). In particular, the application can be used especially with conventional irritant nonionic surfactants, which preferably have an EpiSkin cell viability equal to or less than 90%, preferably equal to or less than 85% or even equal to or less than 80%.

[0156] Examples of useful additional nonionic surfactants can include esters of polyols with fatty acids having a saturated or unsaturated chain containing, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and still more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and also oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, i.e. derivatives containing oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene units, for example their oxyalkylenated derivatives; C8-C 24 Polyglycol esters of fatty acids, and also oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; C8-C 24 Sorbitol esters of fatty acids, and also oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; C8-C 24 Sugar (sucrose, glucose or alkylglucose) esters of fatty acids (fatty acid esters of glucose or alkylglucose), and also oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; fatty alcohol ether; C8-C 24 Sugar ethers of fatty alcohols; and mixtures thereof.

[0157] Fatty acid esters of glucose or alkylglucose that can especially be mentioned include glucose palmitate, alkylglucose sesquistearate such as methylglucose sesquistearate, alkylglucose palmitate such as methylglucose palmitate or ethylglucose palmitate, fatty esters of methylglucoside, and more especially the diester of methylglucoside with oleic acid (CTFA name: Methyl Glucose Dioleate); the mixed ester of methylglucoside with a mixture of oleic acid / hydroxystearic acid (CTFA name: Methyl Glucose Dioleate / Hydroxystearate); the ester of methylglucoside with isostearic acid (CTFA name: Methyl Glucose Isostearate); the ester of methylglucoside with lauric acid (CTFA name: Methyl Glucose Laurate); the mixture of mono- and diesters of methylglucoside with isostearic acid (CTFA name: Methyl Glucose Sesquiisostearate); the mixture of mono- and diesters of methylglucoside with stearic acid (CTFA name: Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate), and especially the product sold under the name Glucamate® SS, and mixtures thereof.

[0158] Examples of fatty acid oxyethylenated ethers with glucose or alkylglucose that can be mentioned include the oxyethylenated ethers of fatty acids with methylglucose, and more especially the polyethylene glycol ether of the diester of methylglucose with stearic acid containing about 20 moles of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Distearate), such as the product sold under the name Glucamate® E-20 Distearate by Amerchol, the polyethylene glycol ether of the mixture of mono- and diesters of methylglucose with stearic acid containing about 20 moles of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate), and more especially the product sold under the name Glucamate® SSE-20 by Amerchol, and the product sold under the name Tegosoft® PSE-20 by Goldschmidt, and mixtures thereof. E-20 Distearate by Amerchol, the polyethylene glycol ether of the mixture of mono- and diesters of methylglucose with stearic acid containing about 20 moles of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate), and more especially the product sold under the name Glucamate® SSE-20 by Amerchol, and the product sold under the name Tegosoft® PSE-20 by Goldschmidt, and mixtures thereof. E-20 Distearate by Amerchol, the polyethylene glycol ether of the mixture of mono- and diesters of methylglucose with stearic acid containing about 20 moles of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate), and more especially the product sold under the name Glucamate® SSE-20 by Amerchol, and the product sold under the name Tegosoft® PSE-20 by Goldschmidt, and mixtures thereof. E-20 Distearate by Amerchol, the polyethylene glycol ether of the mixture of mono- and diesters of methylglucose with stearic acid containing about 20 moles of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate), and more especially the product sold under the name Glucamate® SSE-20 by Amerchol, and the product sold under the name Tegosoft® PSE-20 by Goldschmidt, and mixtures thereof. E-20 Distearate by Amerchol, the polyethylene glycol ether of the mixture of mono- and diesters of methylglucose with stearic acid containing about 20 moles of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate), and more especially the product sold under the name Glucamate® SSE-20 by Amerchol, and the product sold under the name Tegosoft® PSE-20 by Goldschmidt, and mixtures thereof.

[0159] Examples of fatty acid oxyethylenated ethers with glucose or alkylglucose that can be mentioned include the oxyethylenated ethers of fatty acids with methylglucose, and more especially the polyethylene glycol ether of the diester of methylglucose with stearic acid containing about 20 moles of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Distearate), such as the product sold under the name Glucamate® E-20 Distearate by Amerchol, the polyethylene glycol ether of the mixture of mono- and diesters of methylglucose with stearic acid containing about 20 moles of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate), and more especially the product sold under the name Glucamate® SSE-20 by Amerchol, and the product sold under the name Tegosoft® PSE-20 by Goldschmidt, and mixtures thereof.

[0160] Examples of fatty acid oxyethylenated ethers with glucose or alkylglucose that can be mentioned include the oxyethylenated ethers of fatty acids with methylglucose, and more especially the polyethylene glycol ether of the diester of methylglucose with stearic acid containing about 20 moles of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Distearate), such as the product sold under the name Glucamate® E-20 Distearate by Amerchol, the polyethylene glycol ether of the mixture of mono- and diesters of methylglucose with stearic acid containing about 20 moles of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate), and more especially the product sold under the name Glucamate® SSE-20 by Amerchol, and the product sold under the name Tegosoft® PSE-20 by Goldschmidt, and mixtures thereof.

[0161] Sugar ethers that may be specifically mentioned are alkyl polyglucosides, such as decyl glucoside, for example, those marketed by Kao Chemicals under the name... 10. Products sold by Henkel under the name Products sold in 2000, and products sold by SEPPIC under the name Products sold by NS10; octyl / decyl glucosides, such as those marketed by SEPPIC under the name... Products sold by CG 110 or by BASF under that name Products sold by GD 70; lauryl glucoside, for example, by Henkel under the name... 1200N and Products sold in 1200; coco-based glucosides, such as those sold by Henkel under the name Plantacare 818 / UP; optional cetearyl glucosides as a mixture with cetearyl alcohol, such as those sold by SEPPIC under the name 68. Sold by Goldschmidt company under the name CG90 sales, and sales by Henkel under the name KE3302 for sale; arachidonic glucosides, such as in the form of a mixture of arachidonic alcohol and betaine alcohol, and arachidonic glucosides, by the company SEPPIC under the name... 202 Sales; cocoylethylglucoside, for example in the form of a mixture (35 / 65) with cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, by SEPPIC under the name 82. Sales; and mixtures thereof.

[0162] PEG-modified esters, such as PEG-7 oleic acid ester, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-30 glyceryl cocoate, and PEG-80 glyceryl cocoate, can also be used.

[0163] The following can also be mentioned as examples of other available nonionic surfactants: polysorbate series, such as polysorbate 20, polysorbate 21, polysorbate 60, polysorbate 61 and polysorbate 80; or glyceryl ester compounds, such as glyceryl caprylate (also known as glyceryl monocaprylate), glyceryl decanoate (also known as glyceryl monodecanoate) and glyceryl laurate (also known as glyceryl monolaurate), such as PEG-6 glyceryl caprylate / decanoate.

[0164] According to one embodiment of the present invention, among the other nonionic surfactants mentioned above, the present invention particularly employs the conventionally irritating type.

[0165] Component B-3) can be present in the composition in an amount of 0.1% to 15%, for example 0.15% to 10% (including all ranges and subranges therebetween), relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present application.

[0166] Component B) can be present in the composition in a total amount of 0.1% to 20%, for example 0.5% to 10% or 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present application.

[0167] Combination of components A) and B)

[0168] According to the present application, it has surprisingly been found that the irritation that can be caused by component B) can be substantially reduced or substantially avoided when component A) is used simultaneously with component B) which is a conventional irritating surfactant.

[0169] Without being bound by any known theory, it is believed that with respect to the irritating component B) in a surfactant effective amount, when it is replaced by a certain component A) in an appropriate ratio, the surfactant effect of component B) can still be achieved, but with a highly inhibited irritation, in particular a highly inhibited irritation to the skin.

[0170] According to one embodiment of the present application, it is necessary that a significant portion of the surfactant effective amount of component B) is replaced by a comparable amount of component A) with respect to the surfactant effective amount of component B). According to one embodiment, too much of the surfactant effective amount is replaced by component A) can result in an insufficient surfactant effect. According to one embodiment, too little of the surfactant effective amount is replaced by component A) can result in an insufficient reduction of irritation.

[0171] Surprisingly, it has been found that according to one embodiment of the present application, by weight, a "significant amount" can be from 1 / 4 to 3 / 4 of the surfactant effective amount of component B). For example, according to the present application, by weight, when 100 g of product contains a specific irritating component B) in a surfactant effective amount of about 12 g, 3 g to 9 g thereof can be replaced by component A).

[0172] In other words, in the composition according to the present application, component A) and component B) can be present in a weight ratio of about 1 :3 to 3:1, preferably 1 :2 to 2:1 or preferably 1 :1.5 to 1.5:1. For example, according to the present application, a component A) / B) ratio of 2:1, 1 :1, 1 :1.5 or 1 :2 can be useful.

[0173] Hydroxyl-containing acid

[0174] The composition of the present application comprises at least one hydroxyl group containing acid.

[0175] According to the present application, the hydroxyl-containing acid can in particular be an alpha-hydroxy acid. According to the present application, the term "alpha-hydroxy acid" is understood to mean a carboxylic acid having at least one hydroxyl function which occupies the alpha-position (carbon adjacent to the carboxylic acid function) of the acid. Such acids are preferably present in the final composition in the form of the free acid and.

[0176] The one or more alpha-hydroxy acids include, for example, citric acid, lactic acid, methyl lactic acid, glucuronic acid, glycolic acid, pyruvic acid, 2-hydroxybutyric acid, 2-hydroxyvaleric acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxynonanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyundecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetracosanoic acid, 2-hydroxyeicosanoic acid, mandelic acid, phenyllactic acid, gluconic acid, galacturonic acid, alepunic acid, ribonic acid, tartronic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, fumaric acid, and mixtures thereof. It is also possible to use mixtures of these various acids.

[0177] According to one embodiment of the present application, the alpha-hydroxy acid is preferably a lower acid having from 2 to 12 carbon atoms or from 2 to 8 carbon atoms or from 2 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0178] According to one embodiment of the present application, the alpha-hydroxy acid is preferably a monocarboxylic acid.

[0179] Examples of hydroxyl-containing acids can include glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid; gluconic acid, lactobionic acid, tartaric acid and salicylic acid.

[0180] According to one particular embodiment of the present application, precursors of the hydroxyl-containing acid can also be used in the composition. According to the present application, "precursor" means a substance which is capable of being converted (for example by hydrolysis) into a hydroxyl-containing acid which can be used in the present application. An example of such a precursor can in particular be glucosactone. For the purposes of the present application, and in particular given that the composition according to the present application is aqueous, such a precursor can be considered to belong to the concept of "hydroxyl-containing acid".

[0181] According to one preferred embodiment of the present application, the alpha-hydroxy acid is a lower monocarboxylic acid having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, for example lactic acid, gluconic acid or glycolic acid.

[0182] The hydroxyl-containing acid can be present in the composition according to the present application in an amount ranging from 0.001% to 15% by weight, or from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0183] Medium / solvent

[0184] The composition according to the application can advantageously comprise, as component D), at least one medium / solvent, including water and / or an organic medium / solvent.

[0185] Water

[0186] The composition according to the application can advantageously comprise water in various amounts. For low-viscosity applications of the composition, for example in the form of a leave-in lotion, relatively large amounts of water can be used. For example, water is used in a content greater than or equal to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The content of water in the low-viscosity composition according to the application is preferably between 40% and 99% by weight, between 50% and 90% by weight or between 60% and 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0187] Organic medium / solvent

[0188] The composition according to the application can also comprise one or more organic media / solvents, preferably water-soluble organic media / solvents (solubility in water greater than or equal to 5% at 25°C and atmospheric pressure).

[0189] Examples of organic media / solvents that can be mentioned include, alone or as a mixture: linear or branched and preferably saturated mono- or dihydric alcohols comprising from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, (iso)propanol, butanol, hexanediol (2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol), neopentyl glycol and 3-methyl-1,5-pentanediol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and propylene glycol; aromatic alcohols, such as phenyl ethyl alcohol; polyols containing more than two hydroxyl functions, especially C3-C6 polyols, such as glycerol; polyol ethers, such as ethylene glycol monomethyl ether, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether and ethylene glycol monobutyl ether, propylene glycol or ethers thereof, such as propylene glycol monomethyl ether; and also diethylene glycol alkyl ethers, especially C1-C4 alkyl ethers, such as diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or diethylene glycol monobutyl ether.

[0190] When organic media / solvents are present, they are present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 1% to 30% by weight or from 5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the application.

[0191] Preservative

[0192] For the purposes of the application, the composition according to the application can optionally comprise a preservative. The preservative that can be used according to the application can be any conventional for use in cosmetics, especially for ampoule products.

[0193] For example, preservatives that can be used according to the application include methylchloroisothiazolinone, imidazolidinyl urea, derivatives of hydantoin such as DMDMH, parabens, phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol, chlorphenesin, benzoic acid and its derivatives such as its salts such as sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate, hydroxyacetophenone, preservatives based on amino acids, sorbitan caprylate, glyceryl caprylate and the like, or salicylic acid.

[0194] According to the application, the preservative can be present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 5%, preferably from 0.01% to 3% or from 0.01% to 1%, relative to the total weight of the composition of the application.

[0195] Chelating agent

[0196] According to one particularly advantageous embodiment, the composition can comprise a chelating agent. Such chelating agents are defined and described in particular in the article "Chelating agents" (Kirk Othmer Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, volume 5, pages 708-739, published in 2003).

[0197] As mentioned in this article, examples of chelating agents are polyphosphates, aminocarboxylic acids, 1,3-diketones, hydroxycarboxylic acids, polyamines, amino alcohols, heterocyclic aromatic bases, amino phenols, Schiff bases, tetrapyroles, sulfur compounds, synthetic macrocyclic compounds, polymers and phosphonic acids.

[0198] For the purposes of the application, the chelating agents that can be used can include ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), nitrilotriacetic acid, diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid, and salts thereof, such as tetrasodium N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)glutamate, disodium EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, tetrasodium salt of N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)glutamate (glutamic acid diacetate, GLDA); hydroxycarboxylic acids such as citric acid, tartaric acid, glucuronic acid, succinic acid, ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS), and salts thereof; hydroxyaminocarboxylic acids such as hydroxyethylethylenediaminetriacetic acid (HEDTA), dihydroxyethylglycine (DEG), and salts thereof; polyphosphonic acids and salts thereof; other phosphorus-containing organic acids such as phytic acid and salts thereof, such as sodium phytate, potassium phytate; polycarboxylic acids such as polyacrylic acid, polymethacrylic acid, and salts thereof.

[0199] These agents are particularly useful for reducing the electrostatic binding associated with the large presence of water in the intermediate makeup and / or care composition according to the application. To this end, the addition of a chelating agent or complexing agent such as disodium EDTA / tetrasodium EDTA makes it possible to complex free ions and, more particularly, Ca2+ions present in particular in nacres and fillers. 2+cations of the type of the cations of the mineral fillers. Thus, when EDTA complexes these ions, the ionic strength of the water is reduced. Preferably, the agent is chosen from aminocarboxylic acids, and preferably is EDTA or a derivative thereof.

[0200] For example, the chelating agents that can be used are chosen from sodium citrate, disodium EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, tetrasodium GLDA, trisodium EDDS, phytic acid, sodium phytate, potassium phytate, and mixtures thereof.

[0201] According to the application, the chelating agent can be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.001% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 0.1% by weight or preferably from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the application.

[0202] Polysaccharide

[0203] The composition according to the application can comprise at least one polysaccharide, which is preferably of biotechnological origin.

[0204] In particular, these polysaccharides can be chemically modified, as appropriate, so as to increase their hydrophilic valence, as is the case for cellulose derivatives, in particular hydroxyalkylcelluloses such as hydroxyethylcellulose.

[0205] As examples of polysaccharides that can be used according to the application, mention can be made especially of:

[0206] a) algal extracts, such as alginates, carrageenans and agar-agar, and mixtures thereof. Examples of carrageenans that can be mentioned include Satiagum® from the company Degussa; and The alginates that can be mentioned are sodium alginate sold under the name Kelgin® by the company ISP; Algimulse® by the company FMC;

[0207] b) gums, such as xanthan gum, gellan gum, guar gum and nonionic derivatives thereof (hydroxypropyl guar gum), gum arabic, konjac or mannan gum, gum tragacanth, ghatti gum, karaya gum, locust bean gum, agar gum, scleroglucan gum, and mixtures thereof; examples that can be mentioned include xanthan gum sold under the name Kelzan® CG-T by the company CP Kelco, gellan gum sold under the name Kelgin® CG LA by the company CP Kelco, guar gum sold under the name Jaguar HP by the company Rhodia, mannan gum and konjac (1% glucomannan) sold by the company GfN;

[0208] ​​​​c) starch, which is preferably modified, for example derived from, for example, cereals, such as wheat, corn or rice, legumes, such as lentils, tubers, such as potatoes or tapioca, tapioca starch; dextrin, such as corn dextrin; Amidon de modified with 2-chloroethylaminodipropionic acid neutralized with sodium hydroxide, sold under the name Structure LC by the company National Starch; natural tapioca starch powder sold under the name Tapioca Starch 15 M by the company National Starch;

[0209] d) dextrin, for example the dextrin extracted from corn sold under the name Dexplus by the company National Starch;

[0210] e) cellulose and its derivatives, especially alkylcelluloses or hydroxyalkylcelluloses; mention can be made especially of methylcellulose, hydroxyalkylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose. Examples that can be mentioned include hydroxyethylcellulose sold under the name Natrosol TM 250 HHR PC by the company Ashland or hydroxyethylcellulose sold under the name Cellosize TM QP 4400 H by the company Amerchol (Dow Chemical), Polysurf and Natrosol Plus by the company Ashland;

[0211] f) pectin;

[0212] g) chitosan and its derivatives;

[0213] h) polysaccharides comprising at least two sugars, which are preferably of natural origin and are especially chosen from:

[0214] - aldoses, for example

[0215] - pentoses: for example ribose, arabinose, xylose or apiose,

[0216] - hexoses: for example glucose, fucose, mannose or galactose,

[0217] - ketoses, for example fructose,

[0218] - deoxy sugars, for example rhamnose, digitoxose, codonapose or oleandrose,

[0219] - sugar derivatives, such as uronic acids, for example mannuronic acid, guluronic acid, galacturonic acid or glucuronic acid, or itols, for example mannitol or sorbitol.

[0220] Mention can be made in particular of polysaccharides comprising units of fucose, galactose and galacturonic acid, for example a linear sequence of a-L-fucose, a-D-galactose and galacturonic acid, such as the product sold under the trade name 1000 PP or 1.5 P marketed by the company Solarbia.

[0221] i) anionic polysaccharides, in particular of biotechnological origin, such as anionic polysaccharides bearing as repeating units a tetrasaccharide consisting of L-fucose, D-glucose and glucuronic acid, such as the product with the INCI name of Biosaccharide gum-4 sold by the company Solarbia under the reference Glycofilm 1.5 P;

[0222] j) and mixtures thereof.

[0223] Preferably, the polysaccharide(s) of the application are chosen from:

[0224] - gums, such as xanthan gum or gellan gum;

[0225] - cellulose and derivatives thereof, such as hydroxyethylcellulose;

[0226] - polysaccharides comprising units of fucose, galactose and galacturonic acid, such as Biosaccharide gum-1.

[0227] According to one embodiment, the polysaccharide(s) (for example according to one embodiment) can also act as gelling agent(s) for the composition(s) of the application.

[0228] According to one embodiment, the polysaccharide(s) can be present in the composition(s) in an amount ranging from 0.0001% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.001% to 2% by weight or from 0.005% to 1% by weight of polysaccharide(s), relative to the total weight of the composition(s).

[0229] Further active ingredient

[0230] The composition(s) according to the application can advantageously comprise one or more additional active ingredients, in particular cosmetic, dermatological or pharmaceutical active ingredients.

[0231] In the context of the application, the additional active ingredient(s) are active ingredients other than the astilbin or resveratrol present in the composition(s) and the other active agents defined above, in particular.

[0232] Advantageously, such additional active ingredients (cosmetic, dermatological or pharmaceutical active ingredients) can be intended to exert a cosmetic, caring or hygiene effect on keratin materials, such as the skin, including the face, the hair, the eyelashes, the scalp and / or the coat, and preferably on the skin.

[0233] The choice of this additional active ingredient is of course modulated by the effect sought jointly by the composition under consideration.

[0234] Thus, the composition according to the application can further comprise an active ingredient having an anti-aging activity or a hydrating activity.

[0235] Of course, the person skilled in the art will carefully select the optional additional active ingredient added to the composition according to the application in such a way that the advantageous properties inherent to the composition according to the application are not, or not substantially, altered by the proposed addition.

[0236] These additional active ingredients are generally present in the composition in a content of between 0.0001 % and 20% by weight, and preferably between 0.01 % and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0237] Additive

[0238] According to various embodiments, the composition of the application is provided for application to the skin. According to these embodiments, the composition of the application can comprise the various ingredients conventionally usable in compositions for conditioning the skin, such as moisturizers, fatty substances, antidandruff agents, anti-seborrhea agents, agents for preventing loss and / or promoting regrowth, vitamins and provitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, chelating agents, plasticizing agents, acidifying agents, opacifiers, nacreous or pearlescent agents, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, fragrances and preservatives.

[0239] A non-exhaustive list of such ingredients can be found in U.S. Patent Application Publication No. 2004 / 0170586, the disclosure of which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety. Yet further examples of such additional ingredients can be found in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, 9th Edition, 2002.

[0240] The person skilled in the art will carefully select the optional additional additives and / or their amounts so as not to adversely affect the advantageous properties of the composition according to the application.

[0241] These additives can be chosen differently by the person skilled in the art in order to facilitate the preparation of a composition having the desired properties (for example consistency or texture). In particular, the additives, if used, and their amounts are specifically determined according to the particular product / its application (for example leave-in conditioner, rinse-off conditioner, skin care conditioner, etc.).

[0242] These additives can be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 50% relative to the total weight of the composition, including all the ranges and sub-ranges therebetween.

[0243] Methods and uses

[0244] The composition according to the application can generally be prepared according to the basic knowledge of the person skilled in the art. However, it should be understood that the person skilled in the art can choose the method of preparation on the basis of his / her basic knowledge, taking into account the nature of the ingredients used (for example their solubility in the vehicle) and the envisaged application of the composition or kit.

[0245] The composition according to the application is preferably useful for formulating a skin care product. In addition, and as discussed in detail above, it should be understood that the composition according to the application can be free of silicone oil.

[0246] The composition according to the application is preferably useful for formulating a leave-in product. The term "leave-in" object is understood to mean that the object is present on the skin (including the scalp, the lips and other body surfaces) for a period of time, for example more than 10 minutes, more than 30 minutes, more than 1 hour or even more. It is known to avoid any long contact of irritating components with the skin. However, as stated above, the use of irritating surfactants B) in leave-in products is allowed by using such irritating surfactants B) in the composition according to the application.

[0247] The application thus provides the use of a composition according to the application for a leave-in product. In turn, the composition according to the application (including those discussed in any of the embodiments herein) can itself be a leave-in composition.

[0248] The application thus provides the use of a composition according to the application for enhancing the surface properties of a cosmetic and / or therapeutic product, while avoiding or reducing the irritation suffered by the skin.

[0249] The application will be further illustrated by the following examples, which set forth particularly advantageous embodiments.

[0250] Notwithstanding that the numerical ranges and parameters setting forth the broad scope of the application are approximations, the numerical values set forth in the specific examples are reported as precisely as possible. Any numerical value, however, inherently contains certain errors necessarily resulting from the standard deviation found in their respective testing measurements. The examples below are intended to exemplify the application and are not therefore meant to limit its scope. Examples

[0251] The amounts / concentrations of the ingredients in the compositions / formulations are expressed in weight % relative to the total weight of the composition / formulation.

[0252] Materials:

[0253] EpiSkin: EpiDerm™ available under the name EpiSkin TM available from L'Oreal;

[0254] PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate: CETIOL HE available from BASF;

[0255] Polyglyceryl-5 laurate: SUNSOFT A-121 E-C available from TAIYO KAGAKU; and

[0256] The other materials not specified here are each commercially available.

[0257] Example I, preparation of a composition

[0258] The compositions were prepared according to Examples 1-5 and Comparative Examples 1-3 in Table 1 below:

[0259] Table 1

[0260]

[0261] The above listed compositions were prepared according to known manufacturing methods in the art. Briefly, the process of preparing the compositions included the following steps:

[0262] 1). Dissolve lactic acid, salicylic acid and glycerin in hot water at a temperature of 70°C, mix until completely dissolved;

[0263] 2). Add xanthan gum and mix until no lumps are observed, then cool to room temperature; and

[0264] 3). Add the other components one by one in any order.

[0265] Example II

[0266] The effect of the compositions on cell viability was determined including the following steps: applying an effective amount of the composition on a reconstructed skin model, letting it stand, and then counting the amount of viable cells. A higher viability means a higher level of comfort.

[0267] The sebum migration results were as follows:

[0268] Table 2

[0269]

Claims

1. An aqueous composition for use in retention products, said composition comprising the following components: A) 1.5-20% by weight of at least one nonionic surfactant selected from polyglycerol fatty acid esters or polyglycerol fatty acid ethers; and B) At least one conventional irritant surfactant other than component A); wherein it is selected from at least one amphoteric surfactant and at least one additional nonionic surfactant other than the nonionic surfactant used in component A), wherein the at least one amphoteric surfactant is selected from (C8-C20)alkyl betaine, sulfobetaine, (C8-C20 alkyl)amide (C2-C8 alkyl) betaine and (C8–C20 alkyl)amide (C2-C8 alkyl) sulfobetaine, and the at least one additional nonionic surfactant other than the nonionic surfactant used in component A is selected from fatty acid esters of glucose or alkyl glucose, ethers of fatty acids oxyethyleneized with glucose or alkyl glucose, sugar ethers, PEG-modified esters, polysorbate series and glycerol ester compounds; wherein components A) and B) are present in a weight ratio of 1:3 to 3:

1.

2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein components A) and B) are present in a weight ratio of 1:2 to 2:

1.

3. The composition according to any one of claims 1-2, wherein the component A) is selected from esters generated from the reaction of polyglycerol with at least one fatty acid, the polyglycerol comprising 2 to 12 glycerol units, and the fatty acid comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms.

4. The composition according to any one of claims 1-2, wherein component A) is present in the composition in an amount of 1.5% to 10% relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. The composition according to any one of claims 1-2, wherein components A) and B) are present in a weight ratio of 1:1.5 to 1.5:1, and component A) is selected from esters generated from the reaction of polyglycerol with at least one fatty acid, the polyglycerol comprising 3 to 10 glycerol units and the fatty acid comprising 8 to 18 carbon atoms.

6. The composition according to any one of claims 1-2, wherein the at least one additional nonionic surfactant other than the nonionic surfactant used for component A) is selected from cocoyl glucoside, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-30 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-80 glyceryl cocoate, polysorbate 20 or polysorbate 21, caprylic acid glyceride, decanoic acid glyceride, laurate glyceride or PEG-6 caprylic / decanoic acid glyceride.

7. The composition according to any one of claims 1-2, wherein component B) is present in the composition in an amount of 0.1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. The composition according to claim 1, further comprising a hydroxyl-containing monocarboxylic acid.

9. The composition according to claim 8, wherein the hydroxyl-containing monocarboxylic acid comprises glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, gluconic acid, lactobionic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, and salicylic acid.

10. The composition according to claim 8, wherein the hydroxyl-containing monocarboxylic acid is present in an amount of 0.001% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. The composition according to any one of claims 1-2, further comprising at least one polysaccharide selected from gums; cellulose and its derivatives; polysaccharides comprising fucose, galactose and galacturonic acid units.

12. The composition according to claim 11, wherein the polysaccharide is present in an amount of 0.0001% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. The composition of claim 1, wherein the conventional irritant surfactant other than component A) has an EpiSkin cell viability equal to or less than 90%; and component A) is selected from an ester formed by the reaction of polyglycerol with at least one fatty acid, the polyglycerol comprising 3 to 10 glycerol units and the fatty acid comprising 8 to 18 carbon atoms.

14. The composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one conventional irritant surfactant other than component A) has an EpiSkin cell viability of equal to or less than 85%.

15. A retention product comprising the composition according to any one of claims 1-14.

16. The non-therapeutic use of the composition according to any one of claims 1-14 for enhancing the surface properties of cosmetic and / or therapeutic products while avoiding or reducing skin irritation.

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