Anti-oxidation makeup fixing product with film-forming property and preparation method of anti-oxidation makeup fixing product
The encapsulation of active ingredients in a P/O/W emulsion system addresses the challenges of film-forming comfort and antioxidant stability, resulting in a durable, antioxidant makeup-setting product with improved skin feel and protection.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- CN202411282510.2
- Authority / Receiving Office
- CN · China
- Patent Type
- Applications(China)
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2024-08-28
- Filing Date
- 2024-09-13
- Publication Date
- 2024-12-13
- Estimated Expiration
- Not applicable · inactive patent
AI Technical Summary
Existing makeup setting products face challenges in providing film-forming properties that are comfortable and breathable, and integrating antioxidants effectively while ensuring their stability and effectiveness over time.
A method involving multiple emulsions to encapsulate active ingredients, forming a film-forming makeup-setting product with a stable encapsulation structure that includes a P/O/W emulsion system, using specific components like PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, vitamin C derivatives, and film-forming agents to enhance durability and antioxidant properties.
The product achieves enhanced durability, antioxidant protection, and improved skin feel by forming a stable film that sustains the release of active ingredients, providing anti-oxidation, anti-photoaging, and moisturizing benefits.
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Figure CN119112734A_ABST
Abstract
Description
[0001] This application claims priority to the following patent application: Chinese patent application filed on August 28, 2024, application number 2024111930440 and entitled “A film-forming antioxidant setting makeup product and its preparation method”. Technical Field
[0002] The present invention belongs to the technical field of makeup setting products, and in particular relates to an antioxidant makeup setting product with film-forming properties and a preparation method thereof. Background Art
[0003] In recent years, with the continuous development of the cosmetics industry and the increasing diversification of consumer demand, setting makeup products, as an important part of the cosmetics category, have also been continuously improving in technology. Existing setting makeup products mainly include setting powder, setting spray, setting powder and other forms, which play an important role in maintaining the durability of makeup. Among them, the mineral ingredients such as talcum powder used in setting powder have strong adsorption capacity, but long-term use may cause skin problems, and the asbestos that may be contained in talcum powder is a class I carcinogen, which poses a safety hazard; although the film-forming agent in the setting spray can form a thin film to enhance the durability of makeup, some film-forming agents may cause problems such as sticky skin and easy rubbing, affecting the consumer's experience.
[0004] As consumers’ demands for makeup products diversify, they are no longer limited to extending the durability of makeup, but are more focused on the multifunctionality of the products, such as anti-oxidation and sun protection. Currently, makeup products on the market generally use film formers to enhance the durability of makeup. Film formers can form a thin film on the surface of the skin to prevent makeup from falling off. However, the performance of different film formers varies greatly. How to develop a film former that has excellent film-forming properties and is comfortable and breathable is one of the technical difficulties; and how to effectively integrate antioxidants into makeup products and ensure their stability and effectiveness over a long period of time is another technical challenge. Summary of the invention
[0005] In view of the above problems, an object of the present invention is to provide an antioxidant makeup setting product with film-forming properties and a preparation method thereof.
[0006] The technical contents of the present invention are as follows:
[0007] The present invention provides a method for preparing an antioxidant makeup-fixing product with film-forming property, comprising the following steps:
[0008] 1) Preparation of P / O emulsion:
[0009] First, the oil phase is mixed with 2-3 wt% of a lipophilic emulsifier, the temperature is raised to 60-80° C., and emulsified at a stirring speed of 600-1000 r / min for 5-8 min to obtain an oil phase emulsion, the temperature is lowered to 40-50° C., and the inner alcohol phase is added to the oil phase emulsion at a volume ratio of (3-5): (7-10), and the mixture is homogenized and stirred to obtain a P / O emulsion;
[0010] The oil phase comprises PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, raspberry (RUBUS IDAEUS) seed oil, tocopherol acetate, polydimethylsiloxane / vinyl polydimethylsiloxane cross-linked polymer, and the mixing mass ratio is (4-7): (3-5): (12-16): (1-3);
[0011] The composition of the lipophilic emulsifier includes cetearyl isononanoate, cetearyl wheat bran glycosides, cetearyl stearate and cetyl palmitate, and the mass ratio is (2-4):(2-6):(2-4):(3-6);
[0012] The inner alcohol phase comprises vitamin C derivatives, niacinamide, Stephania tetrandra extract, ethylhexylglycerin and glycerin; by mass fraction, the vitamin C derivative accounts for 5-10%, niacinamide accounts for 3-5%, Stephania tetrandra extract accounts for 0.5-1%, ethylhexylglycerin accounts for 12-15%, and glycerin is supplemented to 100%;
[0013] The vitamin C derivatives include 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid;
[0014] The stirring speed of the homogenizing stirring is 800-1000 r / min, and the time is 3-5 min;
[0015] The formed P / O emulsion is a structure in which the oil phase emulsion encapsulates the inner alcohol phase. The two phases can form a stable encapsulation system at a certain ratio. The oil phase and the lipophilic emulsifier used can form a stable emulsification system, providing an interface film for the alcohol phase to encapsulate the alcohol phase. The formed encapsulation structure can protect the activity of the active ingredients. After the encapsulation structure contacts the skin, it is slowly released to produce the maximum effect.
[0016] The formed inner alcohol phase contains active ingredients such as vitamin C derivatives, raspberry seed oil and stephania tetrandra extract, which have a synergistic effect, can effectively fight free radicals, and reduce the damage to the skin caused by external factors such as ultraviolet rays and environmental pollution. Vitamin C derivatives, as antioxidants, can promote collagen synthesis and brighten the skin tone; niacinamide helps to fade spots and improve the skin barrier function; raspberry seed oil is rich in unsaturated fatty acids and vitamin E, which nourishes and strengthens the antioxidant effect; stephania tetrandra extract further protects the skin from irritation with its anti-inflammatory properties;
[0017] 2) Preparation of P / O / W emulsion
[0018] First, the water phase is mixed with 1-3 wt% of a hydrophilic emulsifier to obtain a water phase emulsion, and the P / O emulsion is added to the water phase emulsion, and stirred homogeneously to form a P / O / W emulsion;
[0019] The stirring speed of the emulsification is 1000-2000 r / min, and the time is 2-3 min;
[0020] The volume ratio of the P / O emulsion to the aqueous emulsion is 1:(3-8);
[0021] The components of the aqueous phase include water, sodium hyaluronate, HAMAMELIS VIRGINIANA water, glucosyl hesperidin / mannitol / ILEX PARAGUARIENSIS leaf extract, gentian (GENTIANASCABRA) extract, p-hydroxyacetophenone, ethanol and disodium EDTA;
[0022] By mass fraction, the sodium hyaluronate accounts for 3-6%, the water of witch hazel (HAMAMELIS VIRGINIANA) accounts for 10-15%, the glucosyl hesperidin / mannitol / paraguay tea (ILEX PARAGUARIENSIS) leaf extract accounts for 8-10%, the gentian (GENTIANA SCABRA) extract accounts for 1-2%, the p-hydroxyacetophenone accounts for 1-2%, the ethanol accounts for 18-25%, the disodium EDTA accounts for 1-2%, and the water is supplemented to 100%;
[0023] The glucosyl hesperidin / mannitol / Ilex PARAGUARIENSIS leaf extract is a complex composed of glucosyl hesperidin, mannitol and Ilex PARAGUARIENSIS leaf extract, and the composite mass ratio is (3-5):(5-10):(4-7). The glucosyl hesperidin and Ilex PARAGUARIENSIS leaf extract in the formed complex are both rich in antioxidant components, which can neutralize free radicals and reduce the damage of oxidative stress to the skin. The Ilex PARAGUARIENSIS leaf extract and glucosyl hesperidin both have a certain soothing and calming effect, which can relieve the discomfort of the skin caused by external stimulation. The components of the complex can be covered on the skin surface with a thin film, and together improve the skin care effect and makeup durability of the setting spray.
[0024] The components of the hydrophilic emulsifier include ceteareth-12, cetearyl alcohol, ceteareth-20 and sucrose stearate, and the mass ratio is (1-2):(8-12):(3-5):(1-2);
[0025] The stirring speed of the homogenizing stirring is 500-800 r / min, and the time is 5-7 min;
[0026] 3) Preparation of makeup setting products
[0027] Adding Limnanthes alba oligolactide, polyester-5, silica and glycerol polyether-26 to butanediol, heating to 70-80°C and stirring evenly, cooling to 30-40°C and stirring evenly to obtain a film-forming agent, and slowly adding the film-forming agent to the P / O / W emulsion by injection, and mixing evenly to form a film-forming makeup setting product;
[0028] The film-forming agent comprises, by mass fraction, 5-10% of Limnanthes alba oligolactide, 12-18% of polyester-5, 8-12% of silica, 20-30% of glycerol polyether-26, and 100% of butanediol.
[0029] The film-forming agent is used in an amount of 10 to 18 wt % of the P / O / W emulsion;
[0030] Meadowfoam oligolactide, polyester-5, silica and disodium EDTA are mixed in ethylene glycol and treated at a specific temperature to prepare a film-forming agent. The film-forming property of meadowfoam oligolactide and polyester-5 helps to form a durable protective film on the skin surface and enhance the durability of makeup. The moisturizing property of meadowfoam oligolactide helps to lock in skin moisture and prevent skin dryness caused by makeup. Silica can adjust the texture and glossiness of the product to make the makeup more natural and fit. The addition of disodium EDTA helps to maintain the stability of the film-forming agent and prevent oxidation or discoloration.
[0031] The above makeup setting products can be prepared into makeup setting spray using a sprayer.
[0032] The beneficial effects of the present invention are as follows:
[0033] The film-forming antioxidant makeup-setting product of the present invention adopts multiple emulsions to form a wrapping structure, fuses and wraps effective active ingredients, and forms a film-forming makeup-setting product under the support of the fusion of film-forming agents. The components of the inner alcohol phase can effectively fight free radicals and reduce the damage to the skin caused by external factors such as ultraviolet rays and environmental pollution. The middle oil phase provides a stable carrier for the inner layer components and helps to form a uniform film layer to enhance the durability of the makeup. The outer water phase constructs the moisturizing and soothing system of the product. While moisturizing and controlling oil, it can also improve the affinity, antioxidant and anti-photoaging properties to the skin, enhance the protection of the skin, and improve the skin feel experience. The formed film-forming agent can improve the softness of the film, and the adopted wrapping structure enables the makeup-setting product to achieve sustained release of ingredients while forming a skin film, promote effective skin absorption, and enhance the durability of the makeup. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
[0034] Figure 1 This is a schematic diagram of preparing the makeup setting product of the present invention;
[0035] Figure 2 This is a graph showing the surface tension test results of the makeup setting product of the present invention;
[0036] Figure 3 This is a test result diagram of the moisturizing performance of the makeup setting product of the present invention;
[0037] Figure 4 This is a test result diagram of the anti-ultraviolet performance of the makeup product of the present invention;
[0038] Figure 5 This is a graph showing the sustained-release ability test results of the makeup setting product of the present invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0039] The present invention is further described in detail below through specific implementation cases and accompanying drawings. It should be understood that these embodiments are only used to illustrate the present invention and are not used to limit the scope of protection of the present invention. After reading the present invention, various equivalent forms of modifications to the present invention by those skilled in the art are all within the scope of the claims attached to this application.
[0040] Unless otherwise specified, all raw materials and reagents of the present invention are raw materials and reagents from the conventional market.
[0041] Example 1
[0042] A method for preparing a film-forming antioxidant makeup-fixing product comprises the following steps:
[0043] 1) Preparation of P / O emulsion:
[0044] First, the oil phase was mixed with 2.5 wt% of a lipophilic emulsifier, the temperature was raised to 75°C, and the mixture was emulsified at a stirring speed of 800 r / min for 6 min to obtain an oil phase emulsion, the temperature was lowered to 45°C, the inner alcohol phase was added to the oil phase emulsion at a volume ratio of 4:9, and the mixture was homogenized and stirred at a speed of 850 r / min for 4 min to obtain a P / O emulsion;
[0045] The oil phase comprises PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, raspberry (RUBUS IDAEUS) seed oil, tocopherol acetate, and polydimethylsiloxane / vinyl polydimethylsiloxane crosspolymer, and the mixing mass ratio is 5:4:14:2;
[0046] The composition of the lipophilic emulsifier includes cetearyl isononanoate, cetearyl wheat bran glycosides, cetearyl stearate and cetyl palmitate, and the mass ratio is 3:4:3:5;
[0047] The composition of the inner alcohol phase includes 8% 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid, 4% niacinamide, 0.8% groundnut extract, 13% ethylhexylglycerin and 74.2 glycerin;
[0048] 2) Preparation of P / O / W emulsion
[0049] First, the water phase was mixed with 2 wt % of a hydrophilic emulsifier to obtain a water phase emulsion, and the stirring speed was 1500 r / min for 2.5 min. Then, the P / O emulsion was added to the water phase emulsion at a volume ratio of 1:5, and homogenized and stirred at 600 r / min for 6 min to form a P / O / W emulsion.
[0050] The components of the aqueous phase include 50% water, 5% sodium hyaluronate, 12% HAMAMELISVIRGINIANA water, 8% glucosyl hesperidin / mannitol / ILEX PARAGUARIENSIS leaf extract, 1% gentiana scabra extract, 2% p-hydroxyacetophenone, 20% ethanol, and 2% disodium EDTA;
[0051] The glucosyl hesperidin / mannitol / Ilex paraguariensis leaf extract is a complex composed of glucosyl hesperidin, mannitol and Ilex paraguariensis leaf extract in a mass ratio of 4:7:5;
[0052] The components of the hydrophilic emulsifier include ceteareth-12, cetearyl alcohol, ceteareth-20 and sucrose stearate in a mass ratio of 2:10:4:1.5;
[0053] 3) Preparation of makeup setting products
[0054] Add 8% of Limnanthes alba oligolactide, 15% of polyester-5, 10% of silica and 25% of glycerol polyether-26 to 42% of butanediol, heat to 75°C and stir evenly, cool to 35°C, and stir at a speed of 700 r / min to obtain a film-forming agent, slowly add 15wt% of the film-forming agent into the P / O / W emulsion by injection, mix evenly, and thus form a film-forming makeup setting product.
[0055] Example 2
[0056] A method for preparing a film-forming antioxidant makeup-fixing product comprises the following steps:
[0057] 1) Preparation of P / O emulsion:
[0058] First, the oil phase was mixed with 3 wt% of a lipophilic emulsifier, the temperature was raised to 70°C, and the mixture was emulsified at a stirring speed of 600 r / min for 8 min to obtain an oil phase emulsion, the temperature was lowered to 40°C, the inner alcohol phase was added to the oil phase emulsion at a volume ratio of 3:7, and the mixture was homogenized and stirred at a speed of 1000 r / min for 3 min to obtain a P / O emulsion;
[0059] The oil phase comprises PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, raspberry (RUBUS IDAEUS) seed oil, tocopherol acetate, and polydimethylsiloxane / vinyl polydimethylsiloxane crosspolymer, and the mixing mass ratio is 4:3:12:2;
[0060] The lipophilic emulsifier comprises cetearyl isononanoate, cetearyl wheat bran glycosides, cetearyl stearate and cetyl palmitate, and the mass ratio is 2:3:3:3;
[0061] The composition of the inner alcohol phase includes 5% 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid, 5% niacinamide, 1% groundnut extract, 12% ethylhexylglycerin and 77% glycerin;
[0062] 2) Preparation of P / O / W emulsion
[0063] First, the water phase was mixed with 2 wt% of a hydrophilic emulsifier to obtain a water phase emulsion, and the stirring speed was 2000 r / min for 2 min. Then, the P / O emulsion was added to the water phase emulsion at a volume ratio of 1:8, and homogenized and stirred at 500 r / min for 7 min to form a P / O / W emulsion.
[0064] The components of the aqueous phase include 53% water, 6% sodium hyaluronate, 10% HAMAMELISVIRGINIANA water, 10% glucosyl hesperidin / mannitol / ILEX PARAGUARIENSIS leaf extract, 1% gentiana scabra extract, 1% p-hydroxyacetophenone, 18% ethanol, and 1% disodium EDTA;
[0065] The glucosyl hesperidin / mannitol / Ilex paraguariensis leaf extract is a complex composed of glucosyl hesperidin, mannitol and Ilex paraguariensis leaf extract in a mass ratio of 3:5:4;
[0066] The components of the hydrophilic emulsifier include ceteareth-12, cetearyl alcohol, ceteareth-20 and sucrose stearate in a mass ratio of 2:8:3:2;
[0067] 3) Preparation of makeup setting products
[0068] Add 5% of white meadowfoam oligolactide, 18% of polyester-5, 8% of silica and 20% of glycerol polyether-26 to 49% of butanediol, heat to 80°C and stir evenly, cool to 40°C, and stir at a speed of 800r / min to obtain a film-forming agent, slowly add 13wt% of the film-forming agent into the P / O / W emulsion by injection, mix evenly, and thus form a film-forming makeup setting product.
[0069] Example 3
[0070] A method for preparing a film-forming antioxidant makeup-fixing product comprises the following steps:
[0071] 1) Preparation of P / O emulsion:
[0072] First, the oil phase was mixed with 2 wt% of a lipophilic emulsifier, the temperature was raised to 80°C, and the mixture was emulsified at a stirring speed of 1000 r / min for 5 min to obtain an oil phase emulsion, the temperature was lowered to 50°C, the inner alcohol phase was added to the oil phase emulsion at a volume ratio of 5:10, and the mixture was homogenized and stirred at a speed of 900 r / min for 4 min to obtain a P / O emulsion;
[0073] The oil phase comprises PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, raspberry (RUBUS IDAEUS) seed oil, tocopherol acetate, and polydimethylsiloxane / vinyl polydimethylsiloxane crosspolymer, and the mixing mass ratio is 7:4:14:1;
[0074] The composition of the lipophilic emulsifier includes cetearyl isononanoate, cetearyl wheat bran glycosides, cetearyl stearate and cetyl palmitate, and the mass ratio is 4:2:3:5;
[0075] The composition of the inner alcohol phase includes 10% 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid, 3% niacinamide, 0.5% tetrandria terrestris extract, 15% ethylhexylglycerin and 71.5% glycerin;
[0076] 2) Preparation of P / O / W emulsion
[0077] First, the water phase was mixed with 3 wt% of a hydrophilic emulsifier to obtain a water phase emulsion, and the stirring speed was 1500 r / min for 3 min. Then, the P / O emulsion was added to the water phase emulsion at a volume ratio of 1:3, and homogenized and stirred at 600 r / min for 7 min to form a P / O / W emulsion.
[0078] The components of the aqueous phase include 45% water, 3% sodium hyaluronate, 15% HAMAMELISVIRGINIANA water, 8% glucosyl hesperidin / mannitol / ILEX PARAGUARIENSIS leaf extract, 2% gentiana scabra extract, 1% p-hydroxyacetophenone, 25% ethanol, and 1% disodium EDTA;
[0079] The glucosyl hesperidin / mannitol / Ilex paraguariensis leaf extract is a complex composed of glucosyl hesperidin, mannitol and Ilex paraguariensis leaf extract in a mass ratio of 5:8:6;
[0080] The components of the hydrophilic emulsifier include ceteareth-12, cetearyl alcohol, ceteareth-20 and sucrose stearate in a mass ratio of 1:8:3:1;
[0081] 3) Preparation of makeup setting products
[0082] Add 10% of white meadowfoam oligolactide, 12% of polyester-5, 8% of silica and 30% of glycerol polyether-26 to 40% of butanediol, heat to 70°C and stir evenly, cool to 30°C, and stir at a speed of 500r / min to obtain a film-forming agent, slowly add 16wt% of the film-forming agent into the P / O / W emulsion by injection, mix evenly, and thus form a film-forming makeup setting product.
[0083] Example 4
[0084] A method for preparing a film-forming antioxidant makeup-fixing product comprises the following steps:
[0085] 1) Preparation of P / O emulsion:
[0086] First, the oil phase was mixed with 2.5 wt% of a lipophilic emulsifier, the temperature was raised to 60°C, and the mixture was emulsified at a stirring speed of 800 r / min for 7 min to obtain an oil phase emulsion, the temperature was lowered to 40°C, the inner alcohol phase was added to the oil phase emulsion at a volume ratio of 3:7, and the mixture was homogenized and stirred at a speed of 800 r / min for 5 min to obtain a P / O emulsion;
[0087] The oil phase comprises PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, raspberry (RUBUS IDAEUS) seed oil, tocopheryl acetate, and polydimethylsiloxane / vinyl polydimethylsiloxane crosspolymer, and the mixing mass ratio is 5:5:16:1;
[0088] The composition of the lipophilic emulsifier includes cetearyl isononanoate, cetearyl wheat bran glycosides, cetearyl stearate and cetyl palmitate, and the mass ratio is 3:6:4:6;
[0089] The composition of the inner alcohol phase includes 6% 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid, 4% niacinamide, 0.8% tetrandria terrestris extract, 12% ethylhexylglycerin and 77.2% glycerin;
[0090] 2) Preparation of P / O / W emulsion
[0091] First, the water phase was mixed with 1 wt% of a hydrophilic emulsifier to obtain a water phase emulsion, and the stirring speed was 1000 r / min for 3 min. Then, the P / O emulsion was added to the water phase emulsion at a volume ratio of 1:3, and homogenized and stirred at 600 r / min for 7 min to form a P / O / W emulsion.
[0092] The components of the aqueous phase include 47% water, 5% sodium hyaluronate, 12% HAMAMELISVIRGINIANA water, 10% glucosyl hesperidin / mannitol / ILEX PARAGUARIENSIS leaf extract, 2% gentiana scabra extract, 2% p-hydroxyacetophenone, 20% ethanol, and 2% disodium EDTA;
[0093] The glucosyl hesperidin / mannitol / Ilex paraguariensis leaf extract is a complex composed of glucosyl hesperidin, mannitol and Ilex paraguariensis leaf extract in a mass ratio of 5:10:7;
[0094] The components of the hydrophilic emulsifier include ceteareth-12, cetearyl alcohol, ceteareth-20 and sucrose stearate in a mass ratio of 2:12:5:2;
[0095] 3) Preparation of makeup setting products
[0096] Add 10% of Limnanthes alba oligolactide, 15% of polyester-5, 12% of silica and 20% of glycerol polyether-26 to 43% of butanediol, heat to 75°C and stir evenly, cool to 35°C, add disodium EDTA, and stir at a speed of 500 r / min to obtain a film-forming agent, slowly add 18wt% of the film-forming agent into the P / O / W emulsion by injection, mix evenly, and thus form a film-forming makeup setting product.
[0097] like Figure 1 It is a schematic diagram of the process of preparing the makeup setting product of the present invention. The microscope image in the upper right corner shows that the emulsion product is in a wrapped state with a particle size of 50 to 80 μm.
[0098] Comparative Example 1
[0099] As a control group of Example 1, in the preparation of the makeup setting product of Comparative Example 1, raspberry (RUBUS IDAEUS) seed oil and cetearyl alcohol gluten glycosides are not used in step 1), and the other conditions remain unchanged.
[0100] Comparative Example 2
[0101] As a control group of Example 1, in the preparation of the makeup setting product of Comparative Example 2, glucosyl hesperidin / mannitol / ILEX PARAGUARIENSIS leaf extract was not used in step 2), and the rest remained unchanged;
[0102] The components of the water phase include 55% water, 6% sodium hyaluronate, 13% HAMAMELISVIRGINIANA water, 2% gentiana scabra extract, 2% p-hydroxyacetophenone, 20% ethanol, and 2% disodium EDTA.
[0103] Comparative Example 3
[0104] As a control group of Example 1, in the preparation of the setting makeup product of Comparative Example 3, white meadowfoam oligolactide is not used in step 3), and the other parts remain unchanged. The preparation of the film-forming agent is as follows: 17% polyester-5, 12% silica and 27% glycerol polyether-26 are added to 44% butanediol, the temperature is raised to 75°C and stirred evenly, the temperature is lowered to 35°C, and the film-forming agent is prepared at a speed of 800r / min.
[0105] Comparative Example 4
[0106] As a control group of Example 1, in the preparation of the makeup setting product of Comparative Example 4, step 3) was removed, and no film-forming agent was added to obtain a makeup setting product, while other conditions remained unchanged.
[0107] Comparative Example 5
[0108] As the control group of Example 1, in the preparation of the setting makeup product of Comparative Example 5, the oil phase, lipophilic emulsifier, inner alcohol phase, water phase, hydrophilic emulsifier and film-forming agent are prepared by a one-step mixing process, the temperature is raised to 75°C, and stirred at an average of 800 r / min for 6 minutes to obtain the setting makeup product.
[0109] The prepared makeup product was subjected to the following performance tests:
[0110] 1. Skin feel test
[0111] 10 volunteers were selected to wash their hands at room temperature, air dry them naturally, and spray the above makeup setting products evenly on the back of their right hands with a sprayer. The refreshing feeling, stickiness and retention were scored by observation and feeling. The evaluation criteria are shown in Table 1:
[0112] Table 1 Skin feel evaluation criteria
[0113]
[0114] The results are as follows:
[0115] Table 2 Skin feel evaluation results
[0116]
[0117]
[0118] As can be seen from Table 2, the makeup setting products prepared in Examples 1 and 3 of the present invention have higher scores in terms of refreshing feeling and stickiness, and have better skin feel. Since it is a makeup setting spray, some ingredients in the product are absorbed by the skin, and some remain on the skin surface, and have certain anti-sweat and anti-scratch effects. It is speculated that it has certain film-forming properties and is conducive to makeup setting. The makeup setting products lacking a film-forming agent (Comparative Example 4) and prepared by a one-step mixing method (Comparative Example 5) have poor skin feel.
[0119] 2. Determination of surface tension
[0120] A fully automatic surface tension meter was used, the experimental method was the platinum ring method, and the experimental temperature was controlled at 25°C. Each sample was measured three times, and the average value was taken.
[0121] Surface tension is used to evaluate the spreadability of a product on a solid surface. The lower the surface tension of a product, the easier it is to spread on the skin surface. Figure 2 It can be seen that the makeup setting products prepared in Examples 1-4 of the present invention have certain spreadability, while the makeup setting product of Comparative Example 5 has a larger surface tension and poorer spreadability.
[0122] 3. Skin patch test
[0123] 30 volunteers were selected, and the makeup setting product of Example 1 was evenly sprayed on a 1 cm*1 cm area on the flexed side of the forearm with a sprayer. With reference to the closed patch test method, plastic wrap was applied to the sample coating area, and the skin reaction was observed after 0.5 h, 24 h, and 48 h. According to the skin adverse reaction grading standard in the "Technical Specification for Safety of Cosmetics", the results showed that no person had a skin adverse reaction, and the pH was measured to be 5.6, which is close to the natural pH value of the skin and helps to maintain the skin in a healthy state.
[0124] 4. Moisturizing performance test
[0125] Transdermal water loss rate (TEWL) is an important parameter for evaluating the function of the skin's moisture barrier. The TEWL tester is used to evaluate the skin's barrier function and moisturizing properties. TWEL can be understood as how much water is lost from 1 meter to the skin surface within 1 hour. 2 Entering the air, the result is Figure 3 As shown, the transepidermal water loss rate in the embodiment is low, indicating that the moisturizing product or method can lock skin moisture more effectively, and has better barrier function and self-protection ability of the skin; the transepidermal water loss rate of Comparative Examples 1 and 2 is slightly higher, which means that the use of raspberry (RUBUS IDAEUS) seed oil, cetearyl wheat bran glycosides and glucosyl hesperidin / mannitol / paraguay tea (ILEX PARAGUARIENSIS) leaf extract and film-forming agent used plays an important role in skin moisturizing.
[0126] 5. Oil control test
[0127] Refer to the enzyme inhibition rate method QTTZ-XZ-39 in the "Cosmetic Oil Control Efficacy Verification Test Rules", and test the oil control effect by testing the 5α-reductase inhibition rate. The calculation formula is as follows:
[0128] Inhibition rate (%) = (1-T / C) × 100%;
[0129] Wherein, T is the 5α-reductase content of the test sample solution; C is the 5α-reductase content of the negative control.
[0130] The results are shown in the following table:
[0131] Table 3 Oil control test results
[0132]
[0133]
[0134] Reducing the activity or content of 5α-reductase can theoretically reduce the secretion of oil, thereby achieving the effect of oil control. As can be seen from Table 3, Examples 1 to 4 show similar 5α-reductase contents, all between 25.84 and 26.77 pg / mL, and the inhibition rate is between 65% and 67%, which shows that under the preparation of the present invention, the content of 5α-reductase is relatively stably controlled. Compared with the comparative example, it is explained that the ingredients or preparation methods used in the present invention can effectively inhibit the activity of 5α-reductase in these embodiments, thereby possibly reducing the secretion of oil.
[0135] 6. Free radical scavenging ability
[0136] With reference to the "Cosmetics - Free Radical (DPPH) Scavenging Test Method (T / SHRH006-2018)", the DPPH free radical scavenging rates (%) of the makeup products prepared in the above Examples 1-4 and Comparative Examples 1-5 were respectively tested, and the results are shown in the following table.
[0137] Table 4 Antioxidant test results
[0138]
[0139]
[0140] The free radical elimination rate is an important indicator for measuring the effectiveness of antioxidants or antioxidant methods. As shown in Table 4, the free radical elimination rates of Examples 1 to 4 are all very high, ranging from 93.6% to 94.2%. This shows that in these examples, the antioxidant components used in combination with the corresponding processes can exert better free radical scavenging ability and protect cells from oxidative stress. In contrast, although the comparative examples also have a certain antioxidant effect, the effect is relatively weak.
[0141] 7. Anti-ultraviolet test
[0142] Ultraviolet absorption rate refers to the ability of a material or product to absorb ultraviolet radiation, and is an important indicator for measuring its anti-ultraviolet performance. The ultraviolet absorption wavelength of the sample in the range of 280-320nm (UVB zone) is measured by an ultraviolet spectrophotometer to analyze the ultraviolet absorption effect of the makeup product. The results are as follows: Figure 4 As shown, Example 1 and Example 3 are superior to most comparative examples in terms of anti-ultraviolet effect, especially compared with Comparative Example 4 and Comparative Example 5, showing more significant anti-ultraviolet performance. This shows that the formula and preparation process in the examples are crucial to improving the anti-ultraviolet performance of the product, and the difference in anti-ultraviolet effect between different comparative examples reflects the influence of different ingredients and preparation processes on product performance. In particular, the changes in the film-forming agent (Comparative Example 4) and the preparation process (Comparative Example 5) have the most significant influence on the anti-ultraviolet performance of the product.
[0143] 8. Sustained release permeability
[0144] The vitamin C derivative (3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid) in the inner alcohol phase was used as the detection component of the sustained release effect, and its release ability was detected by dialysis method. The release rate was statistically prepared into a change curve, such as Figure 5 As shown, it can be seen that the makeup setting product of the present invention can achieve a certain degree of sustained release effect and control the effect of the active ingredients on the skin. It also shows that the makeup setting product of the present invention achieves film formation and long-lasting makeup setting through its sustained release effect, and the changes in the film-forming agent (Comparative Example 4) and the preparation process (Comparative Example 5) have a more significant effect on the sustained release effect of the active ingredients.
[0145] In summary, the makeup setting product prepared by the present invention has film-forming and sustained-release effects, and exerts multiple functions, including skin conditioning and moisturizing, anti-oxidation and anti-ultraviolet, enhancing makeup setting effect, and soothing and calming the skin, etc. It can be used in makeup setting spray to comprehensively improve skin affinity and makeup durability.
Claims
1. A method for preparing a film-forming antioxidant makeup-fixing product, It is characterized in that The steps include: 1) Preparation of P / O emulsion: First, the oil phase is mixed with 2-3 wt% of a lipophilic emulsifier, the temperature is raised to 60-80° C., and emulsified at a stirring speed of 600-1000 r / min for 5-8 min to obtain an oil phase emulsion, the temperature is lowered to 40-50° C., and the inner alcohol phase is added to the oil phase emulsion at a volume ratio of (3-5): (7-10), and the mixture is homogenized and stirred to obtain a P / O emulsion; The stirring speed of the homogenizing stirring is 800-1000 r / min, and the time is 3-5 min; 2) Preparation of P / O / W emulsion First, the water phase is mixed with 1-3 wt% of a hydrophilic emulsifier to obtain a water phase emulsion, and the P / O emulsion is added to the water phase emulsion, and stirred homogeneously to form a P / O / W emulsion; The stirring speed of the emulsification is 1000-2000 r / min, and the time is 2-3 min; The volume ratio of the P / O emulsion to the aqueous emulsion is 1:(3-8); The stirring speed of the homogenizing stirring is 500-800 r / min, and the time is 5-7 min; 3) Preparation of makeup setting products Add meadowfoam oligolactide, polyester-5, silica and glycerol polyether-26 to butanediol, heat to 70-80°C and stir evenly, cool to 30-40°C, stir evenly to obtain a film-forming agent, slowly add the film-forming agent to the P / O / W emulsion by injection, mix evenly, and thus form a film-forming makeup setting product.
2. The method for preparing the film-forming antioxidant makeup-fixing product according to claim 1, It is characterized in that Step 1) The composition of the oil phase includes PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, raspberry (RUBUS IDAEUS) seed oil, tocopherol acetate, polydimethylsiloxane / vinyl polydimethylsiloxane crosspolymer, and the mixing mass ratio is (4-7): (3-5): (12~16):(1~3)。 3. The method for preparing the film-forming antioxidant makeup-fixing product according to claim 1, It is characterized in that The composition of the lipophilic emulsifier in step 1) includes cetearyl isononanoate, cetearyl wheat bran glycosides, cetearyl stearate and cetyl palmitate, and the mass ratio is (2-4):(2-6):(2-4):(3-6).
4. The method for preparing the film-forming antioxidant makeup-fixing product according to claim 1, It is characterized in that Step 1) The composition of the inner alcohol phase includes vitamin C derivatives, niacinamide, Stephania tetrandra extract, ethylhexylglycerin and glycerin; by mass fraction, the vitamin C derivative accounts for 5-10%, niacinamide accounts for 3-5%, Stephania tetrandra extract accounts for 0.5-1%, ethylhexylglycerin accounts for 12-15%, and glycerin is supplemented to 100%; The vitamin C derivatives include 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid.
5. The method for preparing the film-forming antioxidant makeup-fixing product according to claim 1, It is characterized in that Step 2) The components of the aqueous phase include water, sodium hyaluronate, HAMAMELIS VIRGINIANA water, glucosyl hesperidin / mannitol / ILEX PARAGUARIENSIS leaf extract, GENTIANA SCABRA extract, p-hydroxyacetophenone, ethanol and disodium EDTA; Calculated by mass fraction, the sodium hyaluronate accounts for 3-6%, the HAMAMELIS VIRGINIANA water accounts for 10-15%, the glucosyl hesperidin / mannitol / ILEX PARAGUARIENSIS leaf extract accounts for 8-10%, the gentian (GENTIANA SCABRA) extract accounts for 1-2%, the p-hydroxyacetophenone accounts for 18-25%, the ethanol accounts for 1-2%, the disodium EDTA accounts for 1-2%, and the water accounts for 100%.
6. The method for preparing the film-forming antioxidant makeup-fixing product according to claim 5, It is characterized in that The glucosyl hesperidin / mannitol / Ilex paraguarian tea (ILEX PARAGUARIENSIS) leaf extract is a complex composed of glucosyl hesperidin, mannitol and Ilex paraguarian tea (ILEX PARAGUARIENSIS) leaf extract, and the composite mass ratio thereof is (3-5):(5-10):(4-7).
7. The method for preparing the film-forming antioxidant makeup-fixing product according to claim 1, It is characterized in that Step 2) The components of the hydrophilic emulsifier include ceteareth-12, cetearyl alcohol, ceteareth-20 and sucrose stearate, and the mass ratio is (1-2):(8-12):(3-5):(1-2).
8. The method for preparing the film-forming antioxidant makeup-fixing product according to claim 1, It is characterized in that In step 3), the film-forming agent comprises, by mass fraction, 5-10% of Limnanthes alba oligolactide, 12-18% of polyester-5, 8-12% of silica, 20-30% of glycerol polyether-26, and 100% of butanediol.
9. The method for preparing the film-forming antioxidant makeup-fixing product according to claim 1, It is characterized in that Step 3) The amount of the film-forming agent used is 10 to 18 wt % of the P / O / W emulsion.
Citation Information
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