Skin repair composition, preparation method and application thereof, and skin care product
Through the combination of polyquaternary ammonium salt-65 and phytosphingosine and combined with D-panthenol, the problem of poor solubility of phytosphingosine in water and alcohol is solved, and its stability and absorption in cosmetics are improved. Efficiency, achieving better skin care effects.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- CN202411492938.X
- Authority / Receiving Office
- CN · China
- Patent Type
- Applications(China)
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2024-10-24
- Publication Date
- 2025-01-07
- Estimated Expiration
- 2044-10-24
AI Technical Summary
The poor solubility of phytosphingosine in water and alcohols makes it difficult to use in cosmetics, and the prior art cannot effectively improve its stability and absorption efficiency in these solvents.
Polyquaternary ammonium salt-65 is used to combine with phytosphingosine to form supramolecular structures through supramolecular action, improve its solubility and stability in water and alcohol, and use it together with D-panthenol to enhance moisture retention Repair effect.
It significantly improves the solubility and activity stability of phytosphingosine, reduces its irritability, and enhances the safety of the skin repair composition and moisturizing and repairing effects.
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Figure CN119257977A_ABST
Abstract
Description
Technical Field
[0001] The present application relates to the technical field of cosmetics, and in particular to a skin repairing composition and a preparation method, use, and skin care product thereof. Background Art
[0002] In recent years, consumers have become increasingly concerned about the problem of damaged skin barrier. When the skin is stimulated, it will overreact and experience problems such as stinging, itching, redness, etc. The three major factors that lead to damaged skin barrier are the abuse of cosmetics, irregular and informal beauty services, and improper use of topical medications.
[0003] Under long-term stimulation from ultraviolet rays, infrared rays, and medical and aesthetic photoelectric beauty projects, the skin is very susceptible to internal skin damage such as barrier damage, erythema, and pigmentation. As consumers' understanding of skin barrier repair continues to deepen, sales of products claiming to repair the skin barrier continue to rise.
[0004] Phytosphingosine, INCI name PHYTOSPHINGOSINE, is a component of the skin itself and a precursor of ceramide in the skin's natural lipid barrier. It participates in the formation of ceramide and also exists partially in the stratum corneum of the skin. Phytosphingosine is an important component of water retention and barrier function, and a key substance for maintaining the skin's natural defense function. Therefore, adding phytosphingosine can effectively keep the skin soft and moist, and has the function of protecting the skin layer; phytosphingosine is also a natural inflammatory regulator of the skin, with soothing and calming, desensitization and anti-allergic effects, eliminating skin redness, itching, papules, peeling and other sensitive phenomena, enhancing skin resistance, soothing dryness / rash / itching / allergy caused by seasonal changes or environmental changes, and can also deeply repair and condition sensitive skin and enhance the skin's own defense ability. It can alleviate the stimulation of various inflammatory factors on the skin, soothe the skin quickly, and has a significant effect on long-term skin disorders. In addition, phytosphingosine also has an excellent skin-lightening effect, which is mainly manifested in its strong antioxidant effect. It has a significant protective effect on skin free radical damage caused by ultraviolet radiation, reduces collagen decomposition, keratin accumulation, and improves skin roughness. It also has the effects of purifying skin, antibacterial and removing ozone, sweeping away the dullness of the skin and restoring the skin to a transparent and bright texture. Although phytosphingosine can exert the above effects, its solubility in water and alcohol is poor, which makes phytosphingosine difficult to use in the cosmetics industry.
[0005] CN117942270A provides an anionic liposome with high stability for anti-aging composition, comprising: bakuchiol, Centella asiatica extract, anionic surfactant, polyquaternium-51 (INCI name: POLYQUATERNIUM-51) and phospholipids; wherein, after adding polyquaternium-51, the stability of the liposome is higher; WO2023221544A1 greatly improves the stability of retinol and its analogs by adding a specific liposome structure analog polyquaternium-51, and because the encapsulation reduces irritation and improves solubility, the stability and product quality of the product are greatly improved. The content of active ingredients in the composition can improve the quality and anti-aging effect of cosmetics; WO2021016924A1 provides a pharmaceutical composition, which mentions the use of a cationic amphiphilic block copolymer such as polyquaternium-51. When its concentration exceeds a certain critical value, the solvophobic part (for example, the hydrophobic part) or the solvophilic part (for example, the hydrophilic part) attracts each other to form a combination with a solid core-shell structure, wherein the core is composed of the solvophobic part (for example, the hydrophobic part) of the molecule, and the shell is composed of the solvophilic part (for example, the hydrophilic part) of the molecule. Through the solution self-assembly method, polymer micelles are formed, which have a solubilization effect. The above polyquaternium-51 is a binary polymer of methacryloyloxyethyl phosphorylcholine and butyl methacrylate, which performs well in water-soluble systems and water-oil amphiphilic systems. Polyquaternium-65, INCI name POLYQUATERNIUM-65, also known as ternary polymer of methacryloyloxyethyl phosphorylcholine, butyl methacrylate and sodium methacrylate, is an upgraded and modified version of polyquaternium-51. Compared with polyquaternium-51, it has better biocompatibility, safety and superior moisturizing and repairing functions.
[0006] D-panthenol, INCI name D-PANTHENOL, can improve skin moisture, increase skin hydration, and reduce transepidermal water loss. It has relevant applications in WO2023092926A1, WO2023103595A1, WO2024125322A1, TWI821265B, etc. At the same time, D-panthenol can moisturize and repair, and can reduce tissue damage caused by the combination of inflammatory factors and protect the proliferation of normal cells. Therefore, panthenol can improve most skin problems. It can also repair scars and wounds, stimulate the regeneration of injured skin, and treat local inflammation. It has the effects of significantly stimulating epithelial tissue, alleviating itching, and reducing skin inflammation.
[0007] Therefore, the use of polyquaternium-65 together with phytosphingosine and D-panthenol can solve the problem of poor solubility of phytosphingosine in water and alcohol, and can further improve the moisturizing and repairing effect. Summary of the invention
[0008] In view of the deficiencies in the prior art and the needs of the market, the purpose of the present invention is to provide a transparent system that is well dispersed in water, thereby solving the problem that phytosphingosine cannot be well dispersed in water and alcohol.
[0009] Furthermore, the present invention provides a skin repairing composition and a preparation method, use, and skin care product thereof, which can effectively repair and care for the skin.
[0010] To achieve the above objectives, this application provides the following technical solutions:
[0011] The first aspect of the present application provides a skin repairing composition, the core ingredients of which include polyquaternium-65, phytosphingosine and D-panthenol.
[0012] In some embodiments of the first aspect, the skin repair composition comprises the following components in parts by weight: 5.0 to 10.0 parts of polyquaternium-65, 0.1 to 5.0 parts of phytosphingosine, and 5.0 to 20.0 parts of D-panthenol.
[0013] In some embodiments of the first aspect, the skin repair composition further comprises a moisturizer and a solvent.
[0014] In some embodiments of the first aspect, the humectant comprises a polyol, wherein the polyol is one or more of ethylene glycol, glycerol, diglycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 16-ol, 18-ol or sugar alcohol, D-panthenol, hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate, and the solvent comprises water. The sugar alcohol may comprise sorbitol, mannitol, erythritol, maltitol, lactitol or xylitol.
[0015] In some embodiments of the first aspect, the skin repair composition comprises the following components in parts by weight: 5.0 to 10.0 parts of polyquaternium-65, 0.1 to 5.0 parts of phytosphingosine, 5.0 to 20.0 parts of D-panthenol, 2.0 to 6.0 parts of moisturizer, and the balance is solvent.
[0016] The second aspect of the present application provides a method for preparing the skin repair composition described in any of the above items, comprising: heating a mixture of phytosphingosine and water to a first temperature, adding an aqueous solution of polyquaternium-65 while stirring; after the phytosphingosine is dissolved, cooling to a second temperature; adding D-panthenol and dispersing it evenly; adding a moisturizer and dispersing it evenly.
[0017] In some embodiments of the second aspect, the first temperature is 50°C to 80°C, and the second temperature is 20°C to 30°C.
[0018] The third aspect of the present application provides use of any of the above-mentioned skin repair compositions in skin care products.
[0019] The fourth aspect of the present application provides a skin care product, comprising the following ingredients in parts by weight: 90.0 parts to 99.9 parts of a base, and 0.1 parts to 10.0 parts of any one of the above skin repairing compositions.
[0020] In some embodiments of the fourth aspect, the matrix includes the following components in parts by weight: 70.0 to 99.0 parts of water, 0.5 to 3.0 parts of glycerin, 0.01 to 1.0 parts of acrylate / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, 0.1 to 0.5 parts of parahydroxyacetophenone, and 0.1 to 0.3 parts of triethanolamine.
[0021] Compared with the prior art, the technical solution of this application has the following beneficial effects:
[0022] The skin repair composition of the present application uses polyquaternium-65 and phytosphingosine and D-panthenol in a composite, wherein polyquaternium-65 is a high molecular polymer, and its molecules can be combined with phytosphingosine and D-panthenol molecules to form a supramolecular structure through supramolecular forces, thereby improving the solubility of phytosphingosine in water and alcohol, and then making the skin repair composition have good activity stability and transdermal absorption efficiency, while polyquaternium-65 can also reduce the irritation of phytosphingosine, effectively improving the safety of the skin repair composition. And the respective effects of polyquaternium-65 and phytosphingosine are also retained, and the two complement each other and synergize to make the skin repair composition can play a good effect of repairing, moisturizing and protecting the skin. At the same time, D-panthenol is added to the skin repair composition, which works together with other components to further improve the effect of moisturizing and repairing. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
[0023] The following drawings describe in detail the exemplary embodiments disclosed in this application. The same reference numerals represent similar structures in several views of the drawings. Those skilled in the art will understand that these embodiments are non-limiting, exemplary embodiments, and the drawings are only used for the purpose of illustration and description, and are not intended to limit the scope of this application. Other embodiments may also accomplish the inventive intent in this application. It should be understood that the drawings are not drawn to scale. Among them:
[0024] Figure 1 It is a schematic diagram of the results of SIRC cell experiments of the skin repair compositions of Examples 1 to 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 2 of the present application;
[0025] Figure 2 This is a schematic diagram of the repair efficacy test results of the skin repair compositions of Example 3 and Comparative Example 6 of the present application;
[0026] Figure 3 Appearance photos of the skin repairing compositions prepared in Example 4 and Comparative Examples 3-4 of the present application;
[0027] Figure 4 These are photos of the appearance of the skin repairing composition prepared in Example 3 of the present application after being left to stand for three months under different environments. DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0028] The following description provides specific application scenarios and requirements of the present application, with the purpose of enabling those skilled in the art to make and use the content in the present application. It will be apparent to those skilled in the art that various local modifications to the disclosed embodiments are apparent, and the general principles defined herein may be applied to other embodiments and applications without departing from the spirit and scope of the present application. Therefore, the present application is not limited to the embodiments shown, but to the widest scope consistent with the claims.
[0029] The words "preferred embodiment", "more preferably embodiment" and the like in this application refer to embodiments of the present application that may provide certain beneficial effects in certain circumstances. However, other embodiments may also be preferred under the same circumstances or in other circumstances. In addition, the description of one or more preferred embodiments does not imply that other embodiments are not applicable, nor is it intended to exclude other embodiments from the scope of the present invention.
[0030] It should be understood that, except in any operating examples, or otherwise indicated, all numbers representing the amount of ingredients used in the specification and claims should be understood to be modified by the term "about" in all cases. Therefore, unless otherwise indicated, the numerical parameters set forth in the following specification and the appended claims are approximate values that vary according to the desired performance to be obtained by the present application. At least, it is not intended to limit the application of the doctrine of equivalents to the scope of the claims, and each numerical parameter should at least be interpreted according to the number of reported significant figures and by applying ordinary rounding techniques.
[0031] Notwithstanding that the numerical ranges and parameters setting forth the broad scope of the invention are approximations, the numerical values set forth in the specific examples are reported as precisely as possible. Any numerical value, however, inherently contains certain errors necessarily resulting from the standard deviation found in their respective testing measurements.
[0032] The present application provides a skin repairing composition, comprising polyquaternium-65, phytosphingosine and panthenol, wherein polyquaternium-65 has good repairing ability for wrinkles of dehydrated skin, and also has excellent moisturizing, emollient and refreshing abilities, and has excellent compatibility with the skin.
[0033] Phytosphingosine is a component of the skin itself and a precursor of ceramide in the skin's natural lipid barrier. It participates in the formation of ceramide and also exists partially in the stratum corneum of the skin. In this application, phytosphingosine is an important component of moisture retention and barrier function and a key substance for maintaining the skin's natural defense function. Therefore, adding phytosphingosine can effectively keep the skin soft and moist and protect the skin layer.
[0034] Phytosphingosine is also a natural inflammatory regulator for the skin. It has the effects of soothing, calming, desensitizing and preventing allergies. It eliminates sensitive phenomena such as skin redness, itching, papules, and peeling, enhances skin resistance, relieves dryness / rash / itching / allergies caused by seasonal changes or environmental changes, and can also deeply repair and condition sensitive skin to enhance the skin's own defense capabilities. It can alleviate the stimulation of various inflammatory factors on the skin, soothe the skin quickly, and has a significant effect on long-term skin disorders.
[0035] In addition, phytosphingosine also has excellent skin lightening effects, mainly because phytosphingosine has strong antioxidant effects, and has a significant protective effect on skin free radical damage caused by ultraviolet radiation, reducing collagen decomposition, keratin accumulation, and improving skin roughness. It also has the effects of purifying skin, antibacterial and removing ozone, sweeping away the dullness of the skin and restoring the skin to a transparent and bright texture.
[0036] Although phytosphingosine can bring into play the above-mentioned effect, because its solubility in water and alcohol is all poor, phytosphingosine is difficult to be used in the cosmetics industry. And the application uses polyquaternium-65 and phytosphingosine in a composite manner, effectively solving this problem. Wherein polyquaternium-65 can play a modification effect on phytosphingosine, and polyquaternium-65 molecules and phytosphingosine molecules are combined together to form a supramolecular structure by supramolecular forces (such as intermolecular forces, wrapping, etc.), which can not only significantly improve the solubility and activity stability of phytosphingosine in water and alcohol, but also can reduce the irritation of phytosphingosine. Meanwhile, the respective effects of polyquaternium-65 and phytosphingosine are also retained, and the two complement each other, synergistic enhancement, and have played the effect of 1+1>2.
[0037] In this application, D-panthenol can improve skin moisture, increase the hydration of the skin, and reduce transepidermal water loss. At the same time, D-panthenol can moisturize and repair, and can reduce tissue damage caused by the combination of inflammatory factors and protect the proliferation of normal cells. Therefore, panthenol can improve most skin problems. It can also repair scars and wounds, stimulate the regeneration of injured skin, and treat local inflammation. It has the effects of significantly stimulating epithelial tissue, alleviating itching, and reducing skin inflammation. D-panthenol works together with polyquaternium-65 and phytosphingosine to further improve the effect of moisturizing and repairing.
[0038] In some preferred embodiments, the skin repair composition includes the following components in parts by weight: 5.5 to 10.0 parts of polyquaternium-65, 0.5 to 2.0 parts of phytosphingosine, and 9.0 to 11.0 parts of D-panthenol.
[0039] In some embodiments, the skin repair composition further comprises a humectant and a solvent. In some preferred embodiments, the humectant comprises at least one of 1,2-hexanediol (INCI name PENTYLENE GLYCOL). In some preferred embodiments, the solvent comprises water.
[0040] In some preferred embodiments, the skin repair composition includes the following components in parts by weight: 5.5 to 10.0 parts of polyquaternium-65, 0.5 to 2.0 parts of phytosphingosine, 9.0 to 11.0 parts of D-panthenol, 2.0 to 4.0 parts of 1,2-hexanediol, and 73.0 to 83.0 parts of water.
[0041] In some more preferred embodiments, the skin repair composition includes the following components in parts by weight: 5.5 to 6.5 parts of polyquaternium-65, 0.8 to 1.2 parts of phytosphingosine, 9.0 to 11.0 parts of D-panthenol, 2.0 to 4.0 parts of 1,2-hexanediol, and 77.3 to 82.7 parts of water.
[0042] Since the polyquaternium-65 of the present application has a good modification effect on phytosphingosine, on the one hand, phytosphingosine can be well dispersed in water and alcohol, thereby making the skin repair composition of the present application have good activity stability and transdermal absorption efficiency; on the other hand, polyquaternium-65 can reduce the irritation of phytosphingosine, which can effectively improve the safety of the skin repair composition; at the same time, polyquaternium-65 and phytosphingosine can also play a role in repairing and protecting the skin. In addition, the skin repair composition of the present application also includes D-panthenol, which works together with polyquaternium-65 and phytosphingosine to further improve the effect of moisturizing and repairing.
[0043] The present application also provides a method for preparing the above-mentioned skin repair composition, comprising the following steps:
[0044] S1: heating the mixture of phytosphingosine and water to a first temperature, and adding an aqueous solution of polyquaternium-65 while stirring;
[0045] S2: After the phytosphingosine is dissolved, cooling to a second temperature;
[0046] S3: Add D-panthenol and disperse evenly;
[0047] S4: Add 1,2-hexanediol and disperse evenly.
[0048] In some preferred embodiments, in step S1, the temperature is raised to 50°C to 80°C, so that phytosphingosine can be quickly dissolved. In step S2, the temperature needs to be lowered to about 25°C, preferably 20°C to 30°C, to prevent the addition of D-panthenol at a higher temperature, which may cause a decrease in the physiological activity of D-panthenol.
[0049] It should be noted that the order of the above-mentioned step S3 and step S4 can be interchanged.
[0050] The skin repair composition of the present application can be applied to skin care products, mainly used for repairing and caring for the skin.
[0051] In addition, the present application also provides a skin care product, comprising the following ingredients in parts by weight: 90 parts to 99.9 parts of a matrix and 0.1 parts to 10 parts of the above-mentioned skin repair composition.
[0052] In some preferred embodiments, the matrix includes the following components in parts by weight: 70.0 to 99.0 parts of water, 0.5 to 3.0 parts of glycerin, 0.01 to 1.0 parts of acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, 0.1 to 0.5 parts of p-hydroxyacetophenone, and 0.1 to 0.3 parts of triethanolamine.
[0053] The skin care product of the present application can be made into any category, such as essence, lotion, gel, gel or cream.
[0054] The technical scheme of the present application will be described clearly and completely below in conjunction with the specific embodiments of the present application. Unless otherwise specified, the reagents and raw materials used can be purchased through commercial channels. The experimental methods for which specific conditions are not specified in the following specific embodiments are selected according to conventional methods and conditions, or according to the product specifications.
[0055] Skin repair composition
[0056] Safety Testing
[0057] D-panthenol is generally considered to have less irritation, so the following Examples 1-2 only discuss the irritation issues of polyquaternium-65 and phytosphingosine.
[0058] Polyquaternium-65 was purchased from Shanghai Aoli Industrial Co., Ltd., model PQ65; phytosphingosine was purchased from Chongqing Zhihe Biotechnology Co., Ltd.; salicyloylsphingosine was purchased from Evonik Specialty Chemicals (Shanghai) Co., Ltd.; dimethyl sulfoxide (DMSO) was purchased from Sinopharm Chemical Reagent Co., Ltd.; D-panthenol was purchased from DSM (China) Co., Ltd.; 1,2-hexanediol was purchased from Shanghai Qianyi Chemical Co., Ltd.
[0059] Example 1
[0060] The skin repair composition of this embodiment includes polyquaternium-65 and phytosphingosine, and the weight proportions of the raw materials (the total weight proportions of the raw materials and the cell culture medium are 100 parts) are shown in Table 1.
[0061] Example 2
[0062] The difference from Example 1 is that DMSO is added, and the weight proportions of the various raw materials (the total weight proportions of the various raw materials and the cell culture medium are 100 parts) are shown in Table 1.
[0063] Comparative Example 1
[0064] The difference from Example 2 is that polyquaternium-65 is not added, the weight difference is supplemented by phytosphingosine, and the weight proportions of the raw materials (the total weight of the raw materials and the cell culture medium is 100 parts) are shown in Table 1.
[0065] Comparative Example 2
[0066] The difference from Comparative Example 1 is that salicyloylsphingosine is used to replace phytosphingosine, and the weight proportions of the raw materials (the total weight of the raw materials and the cell culture medium is 100 parts) are shown in Table 1.
[0067] Table 1 Proportions of the components of Examples 1 to 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 2
[0068] Components Example 1 Example 2 Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Polyquaternium-65 0.14 0.14 0 0 Phytosphingosine 0.05 0.05 0.19 0 Salicyloylsphingosine 0 0 0 0.19 DMSO 0 5 5 5 Cell culture medium 99.81 94.81 94.81 94.81
[0069] SIRC cell experiments
[0070] The skin repair compositions of Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-2 were subjected to a rabbit corneal epithelial cell (SIRC) experiment, and the experimental method was based on the "In vitro short-term exposure test of chemical raw materials for cosmetics on rabbit corneal epithelial cells".
[0071] 1. Experimental Materials and Reagents
[0072] 1.1 Cell lines
[0073] Rabbit corneal epithelial cells (SIRC) were donated by Shanghai University of Technology and were of 5 generations.
[0074] 1.2 Culture medium
[0075] MEM culture medium was used, and 10% fetal bovine serum, 2 mmol / L glutamine and appropriate amount of antibiotics (final concentration of penicillin 60 IU / mL, streptomycin 60 μg / mL) were added.
[0076] 1.3 Solution preparation
[0077] Phosphate buffered saline (PBS): 9.00 g sodium chloride, 0.73 g disodium hydrogen phosphate heptahydrate, 0.21 g anhydrous potassium dihydrogen phosphate, dilute to 1000 mL with deionized water, adjust pH to 7.2-7.4, and sterilize by high pressure.
[0078] 1.4 Choice of solvent
[0079] A DMSO aqueous solution with a mass fraction of 5% was selected.
[0080] 1.5 Selection and preparation of test substance concentration
[0081] The test substance was selected to be tested at a mass concentration of 5%, and was freshly prepared before use.
[0082] 1.6 Choice of controls
[0083] The experiment also set up positive control, blank control and solvent control. Complete culture medium was used as blank control, 0.01% sodium dodecyl sulfate (SLS) saline solution was used as positive control, and 5% DMSO solution was used as solvent control.
[0084] 2. Experimental steps
[0085] 2.1 Test article groups
[0086] During the test, the skin repairing compositions of Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 were prepared into test substance solutions with a mass concentration of 5% using a DMSO aqueous solution with a mass fraction of 5%.
[0087] 2.2 Cell infection
[0088] 2.2.1 Thawing cells.
[0089] 2.2.2 The cells were seeded in a 96-well plate in MEM complete medium containing 10% fetal bovine serum by mass, and the cell growth status was observed every day.
[0090] 2.2.3 When the cells grow to a confluence of more than 80%, they are exposed to 200 μL of 5% mass concentration test substance solution for 5 minutes. Each sample is treated with 3 replicates. At the same time, the positive control, blank control and solvent control are treated accordingly.
[0091] 2.2.4 After the infection, rinse with 200 μL phosphate buffer for 2-3 times. Then add 100 μL culture medium and 10 μL enhanced CCK-8 solution to each well, place in a 37℃ 5% CO2 incubator for 4 hours, and measure the absorbance value (OD450 value) at 450nm in a multifunctional microplate reader after the incubation.
[0092] The cell viability was calculated based on the OD value. Each sample was tested in triplicate.
[0093]
[0094] 2.2.5 Result determination
[0095] The average cell survival rate of each sample is calculated based on the three test results of the test substance, and the irritation level is determined according to the judgment standard. When the cell survival rate is greater than 70%, the eye irritation intensity of the test substance is judged to be non-irritating or slightly irritating; when the cell survival rate is ≤70%, the eye irritation intensity of the test substance is judged to be corrosive (irreversible eye damage).
[0096] 3. Test results
[0097] refer to Figure 1 The cell survival rate of the positive control group was only 47.06%, which was corrosive. The cell survival rate of the solvent control group was 83.02%, which was non-irritating. The cell survival rates of Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-2 were all over 70%. The results of Example 1 and Example 2 were very close, indicating that in the composite system of polyquaternium-65, phytosphingosine and DMSO, the interaction between polyquaternium-65 and phytosphingosine played a dominant role in improving the cell survival rate, while DMSO had little effect on the cell survival rate.
[0098] Comparing the cell survival rates of Example 2 with those of Comparative Example 1, it can be seen that when polyquaternium-65 is used to modify phytosphingosine, the irritation of phytosphingosine can be significantly reduced. Comparing the cell survival rates of Comparative Example 1 with those of Comparative Example 2, it can be seen that the irritation of phytosphingosine is higher than that of salicyloylsphingosine. Further, comparing Example 2 with Comparative Example 2, it can be seen that after phytosphingosine is modified with polyquaternium-65, the irritation of phytosphingosine is greatly reduced and is much less than that of salicyloylsphingosine.
[0099] The above-mentioned SIRC cell experiment shows that the polyquaternium-65 of the present application can modify phytosphingosine well, and the two can interact with each other, thereby reducing the irritation of phytosphingosine. Therefore, the skin repair composition composed of polyquaternium-65 and phytosphingosine has good safety and can be used in skin care products.
[0100] Example 3
[0101] The skin repair composition of this embodiment includes the following components: polyquaternium-65, phytosphingosine, D-panthenol, 1,2-hexanediol and water. The weight proportions of each raw material composition (total weight proportion is 100 parts) are shown in Table 2.
[0102] The preparation method of the skin repair composition comprises the following steps:
[0103] (1) Dissolve polyquaternium-65 in water, filter and set aside after it is completely dissolved;
[0104] (2) adding phytosphingosine and water to a reaction flask, stirring and heating to 60° C., and then slowly adding the aqueous solution of polyquaternium-65 prepared in step (1);
[0105] (3) After the solid in the reaction bottle is gradually reduced and the system is clarified, cool it down to 25°C;
[0106] (4) Add D-panthenol and disperse evenly, and the system becomes transparent;
[0107] (5) adding 1,2-hexanediol and dispersing uniformly;
[0108] (6) Filter to obtain the skin repairing composition.
[0109] Example 4
[0110] The skin repair composition of this embodiment includes the following components: polyquaternium-65, phytosphingosine, D-panthenol, 1,2-hexanediol and water, and the weight proportions of each raw material composition (total weight parts are 100 parts) are shown in Table 2. The preparation steps of the skin repair composition are the same as those of Example 3.
[0111] Comparative Example 3
[0112] The skin repair composition of this comparative example comprises the following components: polyquaternium-65, phytosphingosine, D-panthenol, 1,2-hexanediol and water, and the weight proportions of the raw materials (total weight proportion is 100 parts) are shown in Table 2. The preparation steps of the skin repair composition are the same as those of Example 3.
[0113] Comparative Example 4
[0114] The skin repair composition of this comparative example comprises the following components: polyquaternium-65, phytosphingosine, D-panthenol, 1,2-hexanediol and water, and the weight proportions of the raw materials (total weight proportion is 100 parts) are shown in Table 2. The preparation steps of the skin repair composition are the same as those of Example 3.
[0115] Comparative Example 5
[0116] The skin repairing composition of this comparative example includes D-panthenol and water, and the weight proportions of the various raw materials (total weight proportion is 100 parts) are shown in Table 2.
[0117] Table 2 Proportions of the components of Examples 3 to 4 and Comparative Examples 3 to 5
[0118] Components Example 3 Example 4 Comparative Example 3 Comparative Example 4 Comparative Example 5 Polyquaternium-65 6.5 6.0 2.5 20.0 0 Phytosphingosine 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 0 D-Panthenol 10.0 10.0 10.0 10.0 10 1,2-Hexanediol 2.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 0 water 80.5 80.0 83.5 66.0 90
[0119] Repair effect experiment
[0120] The skin repairing efficacy test was performed on the skin repairing compositions of Example 3 and Comparative Example 5.
[0121] 1. Test materials
[0122] 1.1 Cells: Human keratinocytes HaCaT were purchased from Beijing Biobio Biotechnology Co., Ltd.
[0123] 1.2 Main reagents and consumables
[0124] Fetal bovine serum, DMEM high-glucose medium, trypsin / EDTA solution, penicillin-streptomycin (purchased from Gibco); FLG kit (Signalway Antibody); dimethyl sulfoxide, anhydrous ethanol (analytical grade, Sinopharm Chemical Reagent Co., Ltd.); phosphate buffered saline (PBS) (Aladdin); Triton X-100 cell lysis buffer (Shanghai Yuanye Biotechnology Co., Ltd.); BCA protein concentration determination kit (Shanghai Biyuntian Biotechnology Co., Ltd.); cell culture flasks, 96-well cell culture plates (Wuxi Nice Life Science Co., Ltd.).
[0125] 1.3 Main instruments
[0126] Analytical balance (ME204E, METTLER TOLEDO), biological safety cabinet (AC2-5S1, ESCO), pipette (eppendorf), CO2 incubator (CLM-170B-8-cn, ESCO); fluorescence microplate reader ( Tecan); centrifuge (L420-A, Hunan Xiangyi); vortex mixer (V2 standard, Shanghai Yiheng); cell counting chamber (MARIENFELD); fluorescence inverted microscope (EVOS M5000, Thermo); ultra-low temperature refrigerator (DW-86L388J, Haier); UVB irradiation lamp (Beijing Normal University Optoelectronic Technology Co., Ltd.).
[0127] 2 Test methods
[0128] 2.1HaCaT
[0129] Cell culture was carried out by inoculating cryopreserved HaCaT cells at 75 cm in DMEM medium containing 10% fetal bovine serum (FBS), penicillin (100 U / mL) and streptomycin (100 μg / mL). 2 The cells were cultured in a culture flask at 37°C and 5% CO2. The cells were subcultured when the cell confluence reached 80-90%, and the cells were subcultured at least once before the formal experiment.
[0130] 2.2 Sample preparation
[0131] The skin repair compositions of Example 3 and Comparative Example 5 were dissolved in DMEM culture medium and prepared into samples with different test concentrations (mass concentrations) for testing. The skin repair composition of Example 3 was prepared into samples with mass concentrations of 0.0078% and 0.0039%, and the skin repair composition of Comparative Example 5 was prepared into samples with mass concentrations of 0.1%, 0.05%, 0.0078%, and 0.0039%. Filter before use.
[0132] 2.3 Testing of FLG content after UV damage
[0133] a. HaCaT cells were seeded in 96-well plates (3×10 4 PBS was added to the wells and irradiated with UVB (280nm-320nm) (dose 150mJ / cm 2 ), and set up a blank group (without UVB irradiation). Aspirate and discard the PBS in each well, add equal volumes of samples of different concentrations to each well, and add equal volumes of DMEM medium to the blank group (without UVB irradiation) and the model group (with UVB irradiation). Continue to incubate in the incubator for 24 hours.
[0134] b. Discard the cell supernatant, add cell lysis buffer to each cell well for cell lysis, and collect the cell lysate. Use the BCA method to test the total protein content of each sample.
[0135] c. Use the FLG kit and perform FLG detection according to the instructions.
[0136] 3. Data Analysis
[0137] The calculation formula of the FLG content increase rate is: increase rate (%) = (FLG content of samples with different concentrations - FLG content of the model group) / FLG content of the model group × 100%.
[0138] 4. Results Analysis
[0139] refer to Figure 2 The skin repair composition of Example 3 has a high FLG content increase rate at the measured concentrations, that is, the skin repair composition of Example 3 has a significant FLG enhancement effect. It can be seen that the skin repair composition of Example 3 has a strong skin barrier repair effect. The skin repair composition of Comparative Example 5 has a lower FLG content increase rate at the measured concentrations, indicating that the repair effect of the skin repair composition of Comparative Example 5 is weak.
[0140] In the skin repair compositions of Example 3 and Comparative Example 5, the mass fraction of D-panthenol is 10%. However, compared with the repair effect of Comparative Example 5, the repair effect of the skin repair composition of Example 3 is significantly improved, indicating that the polyquaternium-65 and phytosphingosine added to the skin repair composition of Example 3 have significant repair and synergistic effects.
[0141] Stability test
[0142] The stability of the skin repairing compositions prepared in Examples 3-4 and Comparative Examples 3-4 was tested.
[0143] (1) The appearance of the skin repair compositions prepared in Examples 3 to 4 and Comparative Examples 3 to 4 was observed. It was found that the appearance of the skin repair compositions of Examples 3 to 4 was clear and transparent without any sticky feeling. Figure 3 Figure a, Figure b and Figure c are appearance photos of Example 4, Comparative Example 3 and the skin repair composition of Comparative Example 4, respectively. The skin repair composition of Example 4 has a clear and transparent appearance without any stickiness, the skin repair composition of Comparative Example 3 has obvious precipitation, and the skin repair composition of Comparative Example 4 has a clear and transparent appearance but has an obvious stickiness.
[0144] (2) The stability of the skin repair composition prepared in Example 3 was further tested. Equal volumes of the skin repair composition prepared in Example 3 were taken and added to transparent containers of the same specifications. They were placed for three months in an environment of -18°C, 5°C, 25°C, 45°C, high and low temperature cycle (heating from -18°C to 45°C, then cooling from 45°C to -18°C, and so on), and light (25°C, TL84 light source). The appearance of the system was observed in the first month, the second month, and the third month. The test results are shown in Table 3. Figure 4 The photographs show the appearance of the skin repairing composition prepared in Example 3 after standing for three months. The conditions from left to right are -18°C, 5°C, 25°C, 45°C, high and low temperature cycles, and light.
[0145] Table 3 Stability test results
[0146] project -18℃ 5℃ 25℃ 45℃ High and low temperature cycle illumination Month 1 Clarity and transparency Clarity and transparency Clarity and transparency Slightly yellow hair mist Slightly yellow hair mist Clarity and transparency Month 2 Clarity and transparency Clarity and transparency Clarity and transparency Yellow hair mist Yellow hair mist Clarity and transparency Month 3 Clarity and transparency Clarity and transparency Clarity and transparency Yellow hair mist Yellow hair mist Clarity and transparency
[0147] From Table 3 and Figure 4 It can be seen that the skin repair composition of Example 3 of the present application shows excellent stability at 5°C to 25°C, and can fully meet daily storage requirements.
[0148] Skin Care Products
[0149] Embodiments 5 to 8
[0150] Glycerin was purchased from Shanghai Yichuan Chemical Technology Co., Ltd.; acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer was purchased from Lubrizol Specialty Chemicals (Shanghai) Co., Ltd.; p-hydroxyacetophenone was purchased from Shanghai Titan Technology Co., Ltd.; triethanolamine was purchased from Shanghai Titan Technology Co., Ltd.; deionized water was homemade.
[0151] The skin care products of each embodiment include the following components: a matrix and the skin repair composition of embodiment 3. The matrix includes deionized water, glycerin, acrylate / C10-30 alkyl acrylate cross-linked polymer, p-hydroxyacetophenone and triethanolamine. The weight ratio of each raw material composition (total weight parts is 100 parts) is shown in Table 4.
[0152] The base is obtained by blending various components, and the skin care product is obtained by blending the base and a skin repairing composition (B5Pro).
[0153] The skin care products prepared in Examples 5 to 8 are essences.
[0154] Comparative Example 6
[0155] The skin care product of this comparative example is the base material of Examples 5 to 8, which is used as an essence liquid for standby use.
[0156] Table 4 Composition ratio of the skin care products of Examples 5 to 8 and Comparative Example 6
[0157]
[0158]
[0159] Moisturizing Clinical Efficacy Test
[0160] The moisturizing effects of the skin care products of Examples 5 to 8 and Comparative Example 6 were tested.
[0161] 1. Main instruments
[0162] Analytical balance, magnetic stirrer, CM 825 Skin Moisture Tester, Tewameter tester, Cutometer tester.
[0163] 2. Sample Preparation
[0164] The skin care products of Examples 5 to 8 and Comparative Example 6 were prepared.
[0165] 3. Human testing method
[0166] Healthy male or female subjects aged 25 to 65 were selected for the experiment in a constant temperature and humidity environment with a temperature of (21±1)℃ and a humidity of (50±10)%. Before the experiment, the subjects were required to sit quietly for more than 30 minutes in this environment. After the environment reached equilibrium, a randomized, single-blind, controlled test was conducted. The serum was applied to the left and right forearms of the subjects according to a random principle, at a concentration of (2.0±0.1) mg / cm 2 The dosage was applied to the test area. The blank area without applying the essence was used as the blank control group.
[0167] 4. Result detection
[0168] 4.1 Skin moisture content test
[0169] The skin moisture content value (MMV value) can directly reflect the dryness of the skin, and thus reflect the moisturizing effect of the product.
[0170] The subjects were used by the tester before using the sample, 2 hours after using the product, and 4 hours after using the product The CM 825 skin moisture tester tests the skin moisture content of the experimental parts, and each part is measured 3 to 5 times, and the average value is taken. The skin moisture content change rate is calculated, and the results are shown in Table 5. The calculation formula of the skin moisture content change rate is as follows:
[0171] Skin moisture content change rate (%) = (moisture content after use - moisture content before use) / moisture content before use × 100%.
[0172] 4.2 Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL) Test
[0173] The Tewameter tester evaluates the skin barrier function based on Fick's diffusion law. The larger the TEWL value, the more serious the skin barrier function is damaged.
[0174] The subjects were used by the tester before using the sample, 2 hours after using the product, and 4 hours after using the product The Tewameter tester tests the TEWL value of the experimental part and calculates the TEWL value change rate. The results are shown in Table 5. The calculation formula for the TEWL value change rate is as follows:
[0175] TEWL change rate (%) = (TEWL value after use - TEWL value before use) / TEWL value before use × 100%.
[0176] 4.3 Skin elasticity test
[0177] The Cutometer tester is based on the principle of suction and stretching, and uses software analysis to determine the elastic properties of the skin. The R2 value is the ratio of the distance the skin rebounds in a test cycle to the maximum distance the skin stretches when negative pressure is applied. The larger the R2 value and the closer it is to 1, the more sufficient the skin rebounds and the better the skin elasticity. The F4 value is that the skin will gradually fatigue as negative pressure is continuously applied and stretched, making it increasingly difficult to return to its initial state during the rebound process. The maximum stretch of each test cycle will become larger and larger. After using the product, the skin's ability to rebound is enhanced, which slows down the trend of the maximum stretch and reduces the F4 value. The F4 value is an indicator of skin looseness and firmness. The smaller the value, the greater the density and firmer the skin.
[0178] The subjects were used by the tester before using the sample, 2 hours after using the product, and 4 hours after using the product The Cutometer tester tests the R2 value and F4 value of the experimental part, and calculates the change rate of the R2 value and the F4 value. The results are shown in Table 5. The calculation formula for the change rate of the R2 value and the F4 value is as follows:
[0179] R2 value or F4 value change rate (%) = (R2 value or F4 value after use - R2 value or F4 value before use) / R2 value or F4 value before use × 100%.
[0180] Table 5 Moisturizing effect test results
[0181]
[0182]
[0183] According to the test results of water content, compared with the skin care product of comparative example 6, the water content of the skin care products of examples 5 to 8 increased by 18.71%, 41.36%, 48.85% and 24.18%, respectively, indicating that after adding the skin repair composition of the present application, the water content of the skin is significantly increased. It can be seen that the skin repair composition of the present application has a good moisturizing effect.
[0184] According to the TEWL test results, the TEWL values of the skin care products of Examples 5 to 8 were reduced by 26.37%, 52.51%, 59.12% and 43.06% respectively compared with the skin care product of Comparative Example 6. It can be seen that after adding the skin repair composition of the present application, the TEWL value can be significantly reduced, proving that the skin repair composition of the present application has a good repair effect.
[0185] According to the skin elasticity test results, after adding the skin repair composition of the present application, the R2 value can be significantly increased and the F4 value can be reduced. Therefore, it can be seen that the skin repair composition of the present application has a good anti-wrinkle and firming effect.
[0186] The above description of the embodiments is to facilitate those of ordinary skill in the art to understand and apply the present application. It is obvious that those familiar with the art can easily make various modifications to these embodiments and apply the general principles described herein to other embodiments without having to pay creative labor. Therefore, the present application is not limited to the embodiments herein, and improvements and modifications made by those skilled in the art based on the contents disclosed in the present application without departing from the scope and spirit of the present application are within the scope of the present application.
Claims
1. A skin repairing composition, characterized in that: Includes Polyquaternium-65, Phytosphingosine, and D-Panthenol.
2. The skin repairing composition according to claim 1, characterized in that The skin repairing composition comprises the following components in parts by weight: 5.0 to 10.0 parts of polyquaternium-65, 0.1 to 5.0 parts of phytosphingosine, and 5.0 to 20.0 parts of D-panthenol.
3. The skin repairing composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that: The skin repair composition also includes a moisturizer and a solvent.
4. The skin repairing composition according to claim 3, characterized in that The moisturizing agent includes a polyol, and the polyol is one or more of ethylene glycol, glycerol, diglycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 16-hydroxyl alcohol, 18-hydroxyl alcohol or sugar alcohol, D-panthenol, and hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate. The solvent includes water. Preferably, the sugar alcohol includes sorbitol, mannitol, erythritol, maltitol, lactitol or xylitol.
5. The skin repairing composition according to claim 4, characterized in that: The skin repair composition comprises the following components in parts by weight: 5.0 to 10.0 parts of polyquaternium-65, 0.1 to 5.0 parts of phytosphingosine, 5.0 to 20.0 parts of D-panthenol, 2.0 to 6.0 parts of moisturizer, and the balance is solvent.
6. The method for preparing the skin repairing composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that: include: The mixture of phytosphingosine and water is heated to a first temperature, and an aqueous solution of polyquaternium-65 is added while stirring; After the phytosphingosine is dissolved, cooling to a second temperature; Add D-panthenol and disperse evenly; Add moisturizer and spread evenly.
7. The method for preparing the skin repairing composition according to claim 6, characterized in that: The first temperature is 50°C to 80°C, and the second temperature is 20°C to 30°C.
8. Use of the skin repair composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5 in skin care products.
9. A skin care product, characterized in that: The composition comprises the following components in parts by weight: 90.0 to 99.9 parts of a matrix and 0.1 to 10.0 parts of the skin repairing composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5.
10. The skin care product according to claim 9, characterized in that The matrix comprises the following components in parts by weight: 70.0 to 99.0 parts of water, 0.5 to 3.0 parts of glycerol, 0.01 to 1.0 parts of acrylate / C10-30 alkyl acrylate cross-linked polymer, 0.1 to 0.5 parts of p-hydroxyacetophenone, and 0.1 to 0.3 parts of triethanolamine.
Citation Information
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