Aqueous cosmetic composition comprising 1%-8% of amino acids and at least 3% of hydroxylated polycarboxylic acids, and cosmetic treatment method

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, preferably for the hair, comprising from 1% to 8% by weight of a compound of the amino acid type, at least 3% by weight of a hydroxylated polycarboxylic acid comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms and / or a salt thereof, and from 50% to 95% by weight of water. The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method, in particular for washing and / or conditioning the hair using said composition.

Description

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, especially a cosmetic composition for hair, comprising specific contents of one or more amino acid type compounds and one or more hydroxycarboxylic acids. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method using the composition.

[0002] Consumers around the world are routinely exposed to highly varying sources of water which have an impact on the hair, particularly with respect to their cosmetic properties and / or performance qualities of hair products.

[0003] "Mineral" water contains varying amounts of minerals, such as calcite (calcium), dolomite (calcium and magnesium), magnetite (iron), and chalcanthite (copper), in the form of dissolved ions. "Hard" water is also enriched in minerals, such as calcium and magnesium, while swimming pool water is enriched in copper salts, which originate from the algaecides used in swimming pool treatments.

[0004] Hair has a strong tendency to absorb these minerals and / or their metal salts due to the presence of anionic functional groups on its surface, which correspond in particular to the sulfonic or carboxylic acid functional groups of keratin. Furthermore, the isoelectric point of a single hair is generally described as being between 3.2 and 4. As a result, in everyday life, the pH of the water applied to the hair is greater than such values, which results in negatively charged fibers.

[0005] The minerals (very often multivalent cations) will therefore be attracted to this negatively charged fiber and trapped by forming chemical bonds, which prevents these minerals from being released by conventional hair treatment methods. This leads to a possible accumulation of minerals on the hair over time. This attachment depends not only on the hardness of the water, the frequency and / or duration of exposure of the hair to the water in question, but also on the nature and length of the hair (in particular porosity and charge) and also on its state of damage.

[0006] The accumulation of these minerals and / or their metal salts can lead to more or less significant modifications of the hair fiber and in particular of the cosmetic properties of individual hairs. Thus, the accumulation of calcium and magnesium can lead to dry, dull hair, while the accumulation of copper can lead to a greenish discoloration of the hair.

[0007] Furthermore, the accumulation of metal (eg iron, copper) salts can accelerate the damage done to the hair, since they catalyze oxidation / reduction reactions and generate hydroxyl radicals HO° that can be harmful to keratin fibers, including at low levels.

[0008] This can lead to photodegradation of the fibers, lightening of the fibers, and also to detrimental changes in the properties of the hair, which can lead to premature breakage of individual hairs; these phenomena are very particularly observed during subsequent use of lightening or dyeing products.

[0009] In other words, due to the accumulation of minerals and / or their metal salts, the hair may become less resistant, more fragile, indeed even more susceptible to breakage, or also lose its shine.

[0010] There is therefore a real need for available compositions that make it possible to combat the accumulation of metal ions resulting from minerals and metal salts dissolved in water, indeed even to extract them from the keratin fibres, in order to limit their negative effects and overcome all the above-mentioned disadvantages.

[0011] The compositions and their use which are the subject of the present invention make it possible to achieve this object.

[0012] A subject of the present invention is therefore a cosmetic composition, preferably for hair, comprising:

[0013] (i) one or more amino acid-type compounds selected from the compounds corresponding to the following formula (I) and / or their salts; the amino acid-type compounds are present in a total content of 1% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0014] (ii) one or more hydroxylated polycarboxylic acids containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms and / or their salts, present in a total content of at least 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and

[0015] (iii) water, the concentration of which ranges from 50% to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0016] It has been found that the composition according to the invention makes it possible to improve the resistance of the hair to breakage, strengthen the hair and also significantly limit the reduction or loss of its shine, an undesirable effect easily caused by the presence of metal ions, especially copper or calcium ions, in the fibers.

[0017] After application of the composition, the fibers appear to be strengthened, with the strengthening improving with continued application of the composition.

[0018] It has also been found that the compositions according to the invention also make it possible to contribute to the conditioning properties of the hair, in particular smooth feel, softness, shine and easy detangling, and in doing so contribute to the strength, body and volume of the whole head of hair.

[0019] It finds very particular application in the cosmetic treatment, in particular washing and / or conditioning, of keratin fibers that have been sensitized, weakened and / or damaged, in particular as a result of physical treatments (repeated brushing) and / or chemical treatments (for example dyeing, bleaching, permanent wave and / or straightening).

[0020] It is also particularly suitable for the cosmetic treatment, in particular washing and / or conditioning, of keratin fibers which are loaded with metals, in particular calcium and / or copper in an amount of at least 100 ppm, better still at least 200 ppm; in particular with copper, in particular in an amount of at least 100 ppm, better still at least 200 ppm and / or with calcium, in particular in an amount of at least 4000 ppm, better still at least 10 000 ppm.

[0021] In the text below, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values ​​are included in the range, especially in the expressions "between" and "ranging from... to...".

[0022] Furthermore, the expression "at least one" used in the present specification is equivalent to and can be replaced by the expression "one or more".

[0023] Amino acid compounds

[0024] The composition according to the present invention comprises one or more amino acid-type compounds selected from compounds corresponding to the following formula (I) and / or salts thereof.

[0025] Therefore, the amino acid type compound may correspond to formula (I):

[0026]

[0027] Where p is an integer equal to 1 or 2, it should be understood that:

[0028] - when p=1, R and the nitrogen atom form a saturated heterocyclic ring containing 5 to 8 ring members, preferably 5 ring members, which ring may be substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl or (C1-C4) alkyl;

[0029] - When p=2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated, straight chain or branched (C1-C 12 )alkyl, preferably (C1-C4)alkyl, which may be optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -S-, -NH- or -C(NH)- and / or may be optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH, -CONH2 or -NH-C(NH)-NH2.

[0030] Preferably, when p=1, R and the nitrogen atom form a saturated heterocyclic ring containing 5 ring members, which ring is unsubstituted.

[0031] Preferably, p=2.

[0032] Preferably, when p=2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated, linear or branched (C1-C4) alkyl group, which is optionally interrupted by a -S- heteroatom and / or optionally substituted by one or two groups selected from hydroxyl, amino or -NH-C(NH)-NH2.

[0033] Preferably, p=2 and R represents a hydrogen atom.

[0034] The amino acid-type compound may also be a salt of the compound of formula (I).

[0035] These include salts with organic or inorganic bases, for example alkali metal salts, such as lithium, sodium or potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts, such as magnesium or calcium salts, and zinc salts.

[0036] The amino acid type compound may be in the form of an optical isomer in the L, D or DL ​​configuration, preferably the L configuration.

[0037] As examples of the compound according to the present invention in the form of an optical isomer in the L configuration, mention may be made of L-proline, L-methionine, L-serine, L-arginine and L-lysine.

[0038] Preferably, the amino acid compound according to the present invention is selected from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, salts thereof (especially alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts or zinc salts) and mixtures thereof.

[0039] Preferably, the amino acid type compound according to the present invention is selected from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, salts thereof and mixtures thereof.

[0040] Even better, the amino acid type compound is chosen from glycine, its salts (especially alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts or zinc salts) and mixtures thereof.

[0041] As glycinates according to the invention, mention may be made of sodium glycinate, zinc glycinate, calcium glycinate, magnesium glycinate, manganese glycinate and potassium glycinate, preferably sodium glycinate or potassium glycinate.

[0042] Preferably, the amino acid type compound is glycine.

[0043] The total content of the amino acid type compound corresponding to formula (I) present in the composition according to the invention is 1% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. This content can range from 1.1% to 8% by weight, better still 1.2% to 7% by weight, or even 1.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0044] Better yet, the total content of amino acid type compounds selected from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, their salts and mixtures thereof in the composition according to the invention can range from 1% to 8% by weight, especially from 1.1% to 8% by weight, better still from 1.2% to 7% by weight, or even from 1.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0045] Most particularly, the total content of amino acid type compounds chosen from glycine, its salts and mixtures thereof in the composition according to the invention can range from 1% to 8% by weight, in particular from 1.1% to 8% by weight, better still from 1.2% to 7% by weight, or even from 1.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0046] Better still, the glycine content in the composition according to the invention can range from 1% to 8% by weight, in particular from 1.1% to 8% by weight, better still from 1.2% to 7% by weight, or even from 1.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0047] Hydroxypolycarboxylic acid

[0048] The composition according to the invention also comprises one or more hydroxylated polycarboxylic acids comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms and / or salts thereof.

[0049] These polyacids are different from the above-mentioned amino acid type compounds.

[0050] The polyacids contain at least 2 COOH groups (in acid or salified form); thus, they may contain two or three or more COOH groups (in acid or salified form), better still 2 or 3 COOH groups.

[0051] They also contain at least one OH group, but may contain several, in particular two to three, of these OH groups.

[0052] Preferably, they contain from four to six carbon atoms in total and their hydrocarbon-based chains are saturated and straight-chain.

[0053] Advantageously, the hydroxylated polycarboxylic acids and / or their salts contain in total four to six carbon atoms, one to three OH groups and two to three COOH groups (in acid or salified form).

[0054] Salts of these polyacids include salts formed with organic or inorganic bases, for example alkali metal salts, such as lithium salts, sodium salts or potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts, such as magnesium salts or calcium salts, and zinc salts. Alkali metal salts or alkaline earth metal salts are preferred and especially sodium salts.

[0055] Preferably, the hydroxylated polycarboxylic acid or its salt is selected from α-hydroxy acids and their salts, and in particular from tartaric acid or citric acid and their salts, in particular alkali metal salts or alkaline earth metal salts such as sodium citrate and / or sodium tartrate; better still citric acid or its salts, in particular alkali metal salts or alkaline earth metal salts such as sodium citrate.

[0056] The total content of hydroxylated polycarboxylic acids and / or salts thereof present in the composition according to the invention containing a total of two to eight carbon atoms is at least 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. This content may range from 3% to 10% by weight, in particular from 3.5% to 8% by weight, better still from 3.8% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0057] In particular, the total content of hydroxylated polycarboxylic acids or their salts comprising a total of four to six carbon atoms, one to three OH groups and two or three COOH groups present in the composition according to the invention may range from 3% to 10% by weight, in particular from 3.5% to 8% by weight and better still from 3.8% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0058] Most particularly, the total content of hydroxylated polycarboxylic acids chosen from tartaric acid or citric acid and their salts, especially alkali metal salts or alkaline earth metal salts, in the composition according to the invention can range from 3% to 10% by weight, especially from 3.5% to 8% by weight and better still from 3.8% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0059] Even better, the content of citric acid and / or its salts in the composition according to the invention may range from 3% to 10% by weight, in particular from 3.5% to 8% by weight, even better from 3.8% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0060] Cationic polymers

[0061] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more cationic polymers.

[0062] The term "cationic polymer" indicates any non-silicone (not comprising any silicon atoms) polymer containing cationic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups and not containing any anionic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into anionic groups.

[0063] The cationic polymers that can be used preferably have a cationic charge density less than or equal to 5 milliequivalents per gram (meq / g), better still less than or equal to 4 meq / g.

[0064] The cationic charge density of a polymer corresponds to the number of moles of cationic charges per unit mass of the polymer under conditions of complete ionization thereof. If the structure of the polymer (i.e. the structure of the monomers constituting the polymer and their molar or weight proportions) is known, the cationic charge density can be determined by calculation. The cationic charge density can also be determined experimentally by the Kjeldahl method.

[0065] The cationic polymers that can be used preferably have a molecular weight between about 500 and 5×10 6 between and preferably about 10 3 With 3×10 6 The weight average molar mass (Mw) between.

[0066] Cationic polymers that can be used are preferably non-associative.

[0067] Among the cationic polymers that can be used, mention may be made of:

[0068] (1) A homopolymer or copolymer derived from an ester or amide of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid and comprising at least one of the units having the formula:

[0069]

[0070] in:

[0071] - R3 can be the same or different, indicating a hydrogen atom or a CH3 group;

[0072] -A may be the same or different and represents a linear or branched divalent alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms;

[0073] - R4, R5 and R6, which may be the same or different, represent an alkyl group containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl group, preferably an alkyl group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

[0074] - R1 and R2 may be the same or different and represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl group or an ethyl group;

[0075] -X indicates an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid, such as a methylsulfate anion or a halide ion such as chloride or bromide.

[0076] The copolymers of family (1) may also contain one or more units derived from a comonomer which may be selected from the family of acrylamide, methacrylamide, diacetone acrylamide, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by lower (C1-C4) alkyl groups, acrylates or methacrylates, vinyl lactams (such as vinyl pyrrolidone or vinyl caprolactam) and vinyl esters.

[0077] Among the copolymers of family (1), mention may be made of:

[0078] - copolymers of acrylamide and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with dimethyl halide, such as the products sold under the name Hercofloc by Hercules,

[0079] - copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride, such as the product sold under the name Bina Quat P 100 by Ciba Geigy,

[0080] - copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methylsulfate, such as the product sold under the name Reten by the company Hercules,

[0081] quaternized or nonquaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, such as the products sold under the name Gafquat by the company ISP, for example Gafquat 734 or Gafquat 755, or alternatively the products known as copolymers 845, 958 and 937,

[0082] - dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinyl caprolactam / vinyl pyrrolidone terpolymer, such as the product sold under the name Gaffix VC 713 by the company ISP,

[0083] - vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers, such as the product sold under the name Styleze CC 10 by the company ISP;

[0084] - quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymers, such as the product sold under the name Gafquat HS100 by the company ISP;

[0085] Preferably, crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxy(C1-C4)alkyltri(C1-C4)alkylammonium salts, such as those obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride or copolymerization of acrylamide and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homopolymerization or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with ethylenically unsaturated compounds, in particular methylenebisacrylamide. Use may more particularly be made of a crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20 / 80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion containing 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is manufactured by the company Ciba under the name SC 92. Crosslinked methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride homopolymers containing about 50% by weight of homopolymer in mineral oil or in liquid esters may also be used. These dispersions are marketed by Ciba under the name SC 95 and SC 96 for sale.

[0086] (2) Cationic polysaccharides, especially cationic cellulose and galactomannan gum.

[0087] Among the cationic polysaccharides, mention may more particularly be made of cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomers, and cationic galactomannan gums.

[0088] Cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups are described, inter alia, in FR 1 492 597; they are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose which have been reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group.

[0089] Mention may especially be made of the polymers sold under the name Ucare Polymer JR (JR 400LT, JR 125 and JR 30M) or LR (LR 400 and LR 30M) by the company Amerchol.

[0090] Cationic cellulose copolymers and cellulose derivatives grafted with water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomers are described in particular in patent US 4 131 576; hydroxyalkylcelluloses such as hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropylcellulose grafted in particular with methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salts may be mentioned. Most particularly, crosslinked or non-crosslinked quaternized hydroxyethylcellulose may be mentioned, the quaternizing agent being in particular diallyldimethylammonium chloride; and most particularly hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium hydroxyethylcellulose.

[0091] Among the commercial products corresponding to this definition, mention may be made of the products sold under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by National Starch.

[0092] A particularly preferred cationic cellulose that may especially be mentioned is the polymer with the INCI name Polyquaternium-10.

[0093] Cationic galactomannan gums are described in particular in patents US 3 589 578 and US 4 031 307; mention may be made of cationic guar gums, especially those containing cationic trialkylammonium groups, especially trimethylammonium. Mention may thus be made of guar gums modified with 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salts (eg chloride).

[0094] Preferably, 2% to 30% by number of the hydroxyl functions of the guar gum carry cationic trialkylammonium groups. Even more preferably, 5% to 20% by number of the hydroxyl functions of the guar gum are branched with cationic trialkylammonium groups. Among these trialkylammonium groups, mention may most particularly be made of trimethylammonium and triethylammonium groups. Even more preferably, these groups represent 5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the modified guar gum. According to the invention, a guar gum modified with 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride may be used.

[0095] Mention may be made in particular of the products with the INCI names Hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride and Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. Such products are especially sold by Solvay under the names Jaguar C13S, Jaguar C15, Jaguar C17 and Jaguar C162.

[0096] Among the cationic polysaccharides that can be used, mention may also be made of the cationic derivatives of cassia gum, especially those comprising quaternary ammonium groups; in particular, mention may be made of the product with the INCI name cinnamyl hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.

[0097] (3) polymers composed of piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene groups containing linear or branched chains, which may be interrupted by oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or by aromatic or heterocyclic rings; and also oxidation and / or quaternization products of these polymers;

[0098] (4) water-soluble polyaminoamides, in particular prepared by polycondensation of acidic compounds with polyamines; these polyaminoamides may be crosslinked with epihalohydrins, diepoxides, dianhydrides, unsaturated dianhydrides, diunsaturated derivatives, dihalohydrins, diazotidylium, dihaloacyldiamines, dialkyl halides or, alternatively, with oligomers resulting from the reaction of reactive bifunctional compounds with dihalohydrins, diazotidylium, dihaloacyldiamines, dialkyl halides, epihalohydrins, diepoxides or diunsaturated derivatives; the crosslinking agents are used in a proportion ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides may be alkylated or, if they contain one or more tertiary amine functions, they may be quaternized;

[0099] (5) Polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylenepolyamines with polycarboxylic acids, followed by alkylation with difunctional reagents; mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid / dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers, in which the alkyl radical contains from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes a methyl, ethyl or propyl radical. Among these derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of the adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl / diethylenetriamine polymers sold under the name Cartaretine F, F4 or F8 by Sandoz.

[0100] (6) Polymers obtained by reacting a polyalkylenepolyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids containing 3 to 8 carbon atoms; the molar ratio between polyalkylenepolyamine and dicarboxylic acid is preferably between 0.8:1 and 1.4:1; the resulting polyaminoamide is reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine groups of the polyaminoamide of preferably between 0.5:1 and 1.8:1. Polymers of this type are sold in particular by Hercosett 57 or, in the case of adipic acid / epoxypropyl / diethylenetriamine copolymers, by Hercosett PD 170 or Delsette 101.

[0101] (7) Cyclized polymers of alkyldiallylamine or dialkyldiallylammonium, such as homopolymers or copolymers containing as the main components of the chain the units corresponding to formula (I) or (II):

[0102]

[0103] in

[0104] -k and t are equal to 0 or 1, and the sum of k+t is equal to 1;

[0105] -R 12 Indicates a hydrogen atom or a methyl group;

[0106] -R 10 and R 11 independently of one another, indicates C1-C6 alkyl, C1-C5 hydroxyalkyl, C1-C4 amidoalkyl; or alternatively, R 10 and R 11 Together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl may be indicated; R 10 and R 11 Independently of each other, preferably indicate C1-C4 alkyl;

[0107] -Y -It is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.

[0108] Mention may be made more particularly of the homopolymers of diallyl dimethylammonium salt (for example the chloride) (INCI name Polyquaternium-6), sold for example under the name Merquat 100 by Nalco, and of the copolymers of diallyl dimethylammonium salt (for example the chloride) and of acrylamide (INCI name Polyquaternium-7), especially sold under the names Merquat 550 or Merquat 7 SPR;

[0109] (8) A quaternary diammonium polymer comprising repeating units of the formula:

[0110]

[0111] in:

[0112] -R 13 , R 14 , R 15 and R 16 may be the same or different and represent an aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic group containing 1 to 20 carbon atoms, or a C1-C 12 Hydroxyalkyl aliphatic group;

[0113] Or another R 13 , R 14 , R 15 and R 16 together or separately with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, form a heterocyclic ring optionally comprising a second non-nitrogen heteroatom;

[0114] Or another R 13 , R 14 , R 15 and R 16 Indicates nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-OR 17 -D or -CO-NH-R 17 -D group substituted straight or branched C1-C6 alkyl, wherein R 17 is an alkylene group and D is a quaternary ammonium group;

[0115] -A1 and B1 represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, divalent polymethylene group containing 2 to 20 carbon atoms, which may contain one or more aromatic rings or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, urea, amide or ester groups attached to or inserted into the main chain, and

[0116] -X -Indicates anions derived from inorganic or organic acids;

[0117] It should be understood that A1, R 13 and R 15 can form a piperazine ring with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached;

[0118] Furthermore, if A1 indicates a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene group, B1 may also indicate a group (CH2)n-CO-D-OC-(CH2)p-, wherein n and p may be the same or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 20, and D indicates:

[0119] a) a diol residue of the formula -OZO-, in which Z indicates a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group or a group corresponding to one of the following formulae: -(CH2CH2O)x-CH2CH2- and -[CH2CH(CH3)O]y-CH2CH(CH3)-, in which x and y indicate integers from 1 to 4 representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization, or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization;

[0120] b) di-secondary diamine residues, such as piperazine derivatives;

[0121] c) a diprimary diamine residue of the formula -NH-Y-NH-, wherein Y indicates a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group, or a divalent group -CH2-CH2-SS-CH2-CH2-;

[0122] d) a ureidene group of the formula -NH-CO-NH-.

[0123] Preferably, X - These polymers have a number-average molar mass (Mn) generally between 1000 and 100 000.

[0124] Mention may be made more particularly of polymers composed of recurring units corresponding to the following formula:

[0125]

[0126] wherein R1, R2, R3 and R4 may be the same or different, indicate an alkyl group or a hydroxyalkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20, and X- is an anion derived from an inorganic acid or an organic acid.

[0127] Particularly preferred compounds of formula (IV) are those in which R1, R2, R3 and R4 represent methyl, n=3, p=6 and X=Cl, which are known as Hexadimethrine chloride according to the INCI (CTFA) nomenclature.

[0128] (9) Polyquaternary ammonium polymers comprising units of formula (V):

[0129]

[0130] in:

[0131] -R 18 , R 19 , R 20 and R 21 may be the same or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, an ethyl group, a propyl group, a β-hydroxyethyl group, a β-hydroxypropyl group or -CH2CH2(OCH2CH2) p OH group, wherein p is equal to 0 or an integer between 1 and 6, provided that R 18 , R 19 , R 20 and R 21 Not all hydrogen atoms are represented at the same time.

[0132] -r and s can be the same or different and are integers between 1 and 6,

[0133] -q is equal to 0 or an integer between 1 and 34,

[0134] -X - Indicator anions, such as halides,

[0135] -A indicates a divalent dihalide group or preferably represents -CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2-.

[0136] Examples that may be mentioned include the products sold by Miranol A 15. AD1, AZ1 and 175.

[0137] (10) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole, for example marketed by BASF under the name Products sold as FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370.

[0138] (11) Polyamines, such as those sold by Cognis H, which is mentioned in the CTFA dictionary by the name polyethylene glycol (15) tallow polyamine;

[0139] (12) A polymer comprising in its structure:

[0140] (a) one or more units corresponding to the following formula (A):

[0141]

[0142] (b) optionally, one or more units corresponding to the following formula (B):

[0143]

[0144] In other words, these polymers may especially be chosen from homopolymers or copolymers comprising one or more units derived from vinylamine and optionally one or more units derived from vinylformamide.

[0145] Preferably, these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers comprising in their structure 5 to 100 mol % of units corresponding to formula (A) and 0 to 95 mol % of units corresponding to formula (B), preferably 10 to 100 mol % of units corresponding to formula (A) and 0 to 90 mol % of units corresponding to formula (B).

[0146] These polymers can be obtained, for example, by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide. This hydrolysis can take place in an acidic or alkaline medium.

[0147] The weight-average molecular mass of the polymer measured by light scattering may range from 1000 to 3 000 000 g / mol, preferably from 10 000 to 1 000 000 and more particularly from 100 000 to 500 000 g / mol.

[0148] Polymers comprising units of formula (A) and optionally units of formula (B) are especially sold under the name Lupamin by BASF, for example, in a non-limiting manner, the products sold under the names Lupamin 9095, Lupamin 5095, Lupamin 1095, Lupamin 9030 (or Luviquat 9030) and Lupamin 9010.

[0149] Preferably, the cationic polymers that can be used in the context of the present invention are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from cationic polysaccharides, especially cationic cellulose, such as polyquaternium-10; cationic galactomannan gums, especially cationic guar gum; and also mixtures thereof.

[0150] When they are present, the compositions according to the invention may comprise a total amount of cationic polymers ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0151] When they are present, the composition according to the invention may comprise a total amount of cationic polysaccharides ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight and even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0152] Nonionic polysaccharides

[0153] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more nonionic polysaccharides.

[0154] The nonionic polysaccharide is preferably selected from (alone or as a mixture) cellulose, starch, galactomannan and nonionic derivatives thereof, in particular ethers or esters thereof.

[0155] These polymers may be physically or chemically modified. As physical treatment, mention may be made of temperature, and as chemical treatment, mention may be made of esterification, etherification, amidation and oxidation reactions, as long as these treatments make it possible to obtain nonionic polymers.

[0156] As galactomannans that can be used, mention may be made of nonionic guar gums which may be modified with (poly)hydroxy(C1-C6)alkyl groups, in particular hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.

[0157] These guar gums are well known in the prior art and can be prepared, for example, by reacting the corresponding alkylene oxides, for example propylene oxide, with guar gum in order to obtain a guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups.

[0158] The degree of hydroxyalkylation preferably ranges from 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functional groups present on the guar gum.

[0159] Such nonionic guar gums, optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups, are sold, for example, by Rhodia Chimie under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60, Jaguar HP120, Jaguar HP105 SGI and Jaguar HP8 SGI.

[0160] The plant source of the starch molecules that can be used in the present invention can be cereals or tubers. Therefore, starch is selected from, for example, corn starch, rice starch, cassava starch, barley starch, potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch and pea starch. Starch can be chemically or physically modified, in particular, by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, cross-linking, esterification, etherification, amidation, heat treatment.

[0161] The starch molecule may originate from any plant source of starch, such as in particular corn, potato, oat, rice, cassava, sorghum, barley or wheat. It is also possible to use the hydrolysates of the above mentioned starches. The starch is preferably derived from potato.

[0162] Nonionic polysaccharides may also be polysaccharides that do not contain C 10 -C 30 A cellulose-based polymer of fatty chains.

[0163] According to the present invention, the term "cellulose-based" refers to any polysaccharide compound carrying in its structure a sequence of glucose residues linked together by β-1,4 bonds; the cellulose-based polymer may be unsubstituted cellulose, and / or a derivative of nonionic cellulose.

[0164] Thus, the cellulose-based polymers that can be used according to the invention can be chosen from unsubstituted celluloses, including those in microcrystalline form, and cellulose ethers. Among these cellulose-based polymers, a distinction is made between cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ether / esters.

[0165] Among the nonionic cellulose ethers that may be mentioned are (C1-C4)alkylcelluloses, such as methylcellulose and ethylcellulose (e.g. Ethocel Standard 100 Premium from Dow Chemical); (poly)hydroxy(C1-C4)alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose (e.g. Natrosol 250HHR sold by Aqualon) and hydroxypropylcellulose (e.g. Klucel EF from Aqualon); mixed (poly)hydroxy(C1-C4)alkyl(C1-C4)alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxypropylmethylcellulose (e.g. Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical), hydroxyethylmethylcellulose, hydroxyethylethylcellulose (e.g. Bermocoll E 481FQ from AkzoNobel) and hydroxybutylmethylcellulose.

[0166] Preferably, the nonionic polysaccharide is chosen, alone or as a mixture, from cellulose, galactomannans and their nonionic derivatives, especially their ethers; and better still, alone or as a mixture, from nonionic guar gum optionally modified with (poly)hydroxy(C1-C6)alkyl, especially hydroxypropyl; and / or substituted or substituted cellulose, and cellulose ethers, such as (C1-C4)alkylcellulose and (poly)hydroxy(C1-C4)alkylcellulose.

[0167] Preferably, the nonionic polysaccharides are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from nonionic guar gums optionally modified with (poly)hydroxy(C1-C6)alkyl groups, in particular hydroxypropyl groups (INCI name: Hydroxypropyl Guar).

[0168] When they are present, the composition according to the invention may comprise a total amount of nonionic polysaccharides ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight and even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0169] When they are present, the composition according to the invention may comprise a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight of nonionic polysaccharides chosen from cellulose, galactomannans and their nonionic derivatives (especially their ethers) and mixtures thereof, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0170] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more cationic polymers and one or more nonionic polysaccharides; in particular one or more cationic polysaccharides and one or more nonionic polysaccharides; and better still one or more cationic polysaccharides selected from cationic guar gum and cationic cellulose and one or more nonionic guar gum.

[0171] Nonionic surfactants

[0172] The compositions according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more nonionic surfactants.

[0173] Examples of nonionic surfactants that may be mentioned include the following compounds, alone or as a mixture:

[0174] -oxyalkylene (C8-C 24 ) alkylphenol;

[0175] - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated or glycerolated C8-C 40 alcohol, preferably containing one or two fatty chains;

[0176] - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylened C8 to C 30 Fatty acid amides;

[0177] - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8 to C 30 Esters of acids and polyethylene glycols;

[0178] - preferably saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8 to C 30 Oxyethylidene esters of acids and sorbitol;

[0179] - fatty acid esters of sucrose;

[0180] - optionally oxyalkylenated alkyl (poly)glycosides (0 to 10 oxyalkylene units), which may contain 1 to 15 glucose units;

[0181] - saturated or unsaturated oxyethylenated vegetable oils;

[0182] - condensation products of ethyleneoxy and / or propyleneoxy;

[0183] -N-(C8-C 30 ) alkyl glucosamine and N-(C8-C 30 ) acylmethylglucosamine derivatives;

[0184] -Amine oxides.

[0185] The oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units, or a combination thereof, preferably oxyethylene units.

[0186] The number of moles of ethyleneoxy and / or propyleneoxy groups preferably ranges from 1 to 250, more particularly from 2 to 100 and better still from 2 to 50; the number of moles of glycerol ranges especially from 1 to 50 and better still from 1 to 10.

[0187] Advantageously, the nonionic surfactant according to the invention does not comprise any oxypropylene units.

[0188] Preferably, they contain a number of moles ranging from 1 to 250, especially from 2 to 100 and better still from 2 to 50, of ethyleneoxy groups.

[0189] As an example of a glycerolated nonionic surfactant, it is preferred to use a monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C8 to C60 surfactant containing 1 to 50 mol of glycerol, and preferably 1 to 10 mol of glycerol. 40 alcohol.

[0190] Mention may be made of lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-4 LAURYL ETHER), lauryl alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol, oleyl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-4 OLYL ETHER), oleyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-2 OLYL ETHER), cetearyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, oleyl / cetyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol and stearyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol.

[0191] Among the glycerolated alcohols, it is particularly preferred to use C8 to C16 glycerol containing 1 mol of glycerol. 10 Alcohol, C containing 1 mol of glycerol 10 To C12 alcohol and C containing 1.5 mol of glycerol 12 alcohol.

[0192] Nonionic surfactants of the alkyl (poly)glycoside type can be represented in particular by the general formula: R1O-(R2O)t-(G)v, wherein:

[0193] - R1 represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl group containing 6 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl group whose linear or branched alkyl group contains 6 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 8 to 18 carbon atoms,

[0194] - R2 represents an alkylene group containing 2 to 4 carbon atoms;

[0195] -G represents a sugar unit containing 5 to 6 carbon atoms;

[0196] -t indicates a value ranging from 0 to 10 and preferably from 0 to 4;

[0197] -v indicates a value ranging from 1 to 15, and preferably 1 to 4.

[0198] Preferably, the alkyl (poly)glycoside surfactant is a compound of the above formula, wherein:

[0199] -R1 indicates a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms,

[0200] - R2 represents an alkylene group containing 2 to 4 carbon atoms;

[0201] -t indicates a value ranging from 0 to 3 and preferably equal to 0,

[0202] -G indicates glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose,

[0203] The degree of polymerization (ie the v value) may range from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4; the average degree of polymerization is more particularly between 1 and 2.

[0204] The glucoside bonds between the sugar units are usually of the 1-6 or 1-4 type and are preferably of the 1-4 type. Preferably, the alkyl (poly) glycoside surfactant is an alkyl (poly) glucoside surfactant. Most particularly preferred are C8 / C16 alkyl (poly) glucosides of the 1-4 type, and especially decyl glucoside and capryl / decanoyl glucoside.

[0205] Among the commercial products, mention may be made of the product manufactured by Corning Inc. under the name (600CS / U, 1200 and 2000) or (818, 1200 and 2000); and by SEPPIC under the names Oramix CG 110 and The product sold under the name Lutensol GD 70 by the company BASF or the product sold under the name AG10 LK by the company Chem Y.

[0206] Preferably, C8 / C16 alkyl (poly)glycosides of type 1-4 are used, especially in the form of a 53% aqueous solution, such as those sold by Corning under the reference number Those sold by 818UP.

[0207] The nonionic surfactants used in the compositions according to the invention are preferably selected, alone or as a mixture:

[0208] - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylidene C8 to C 40 alcohols comprising 1 to 100 mol of ethyleneoxy groups, preferably 2 to 50 and more particularly 2 to 40 mol of ethyleneoxy groups and preferably comprising one or two fatty chains;

[0209] - saturated or unsaturated oxyethylenated vegetable oils containing 1 to 100 and preferably 2 to 50 mol of ethyleneoxy groups;

[0210] -(C8-C 30 ) alkyl (poly) glycosides, which are optionally oxyalkylened, preferably have 0 to 10 mol of ethyleneoxy groups and contain 1 to 15 glucose units;

[0211] - monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C8 to C60 containing 1 to 50 mol of glycerol and preferably 1 to 10 mol of glycerol 40 alcohol;

[0212] - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylened C8 to C 30 Fatty acid amides;

[0213] - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8 to C 30 Esters of acids and polyethylene glycols;

[0214] - preferably saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8 to C 30 Oxyethylidene esters of acids and sorbitol;

[0215] More preferably, the nonionic surfactants used in the composition according to the invention are chosen, alone or as a mixture:

[0216] - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylidene C8 to C 40 Alcohols containing 1 to 100 mol of ethyleneoxy groups, preferably 2 to 50 and more particularly 2 to 40 mol of ethyleneoxy groups and containing one or two fatty chains, especially at least one C8-C 20 , especially C 10 -C 18 Alkyl chain,

[0217] - preferably saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8 to C 30 Oxyethylidene esters of sorbitol and

[0218] -(C8-C 30 )alkyl (poly)glucosides, which are optionally oxyalkylened, preferably contain 0 to 10 mol of ethyleneoxy groups and contain 1 to 15 glucose units.

[0219] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a total content of nonionic surfactants ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0220] Cationic surfactants

[0221] The compositions according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more cationic surfactants.

[0222] They are preferably chosen from optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines or their salts, and quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0223] The composition may comprise one or more cationic surfactants selected, alone or as a mixture, from the following compounds which are quaternary ammonium salts:

[0224] -Compounds corresponding to the following general formula (II):

[0225]

[0226] in:

[0227] X - is an anion especially selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C1-C4)alkylsulfates, (C1-C4)alkylsulfonates or (C1-C4)alkylarylsulfonates;

[0228] The radicals R1 to R4 may be identical or different and represent a linear or branched aliphatic group containing 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as an aryl group or an alkylaryl group, at least one of the radicals R1 to R4 represents a linear or branched aliphatic group containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0229] Aliphatic groups may contain heteroatoms, such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogen. Aliphatic groups are selected, for example, from C1-C 30 Alkyl, C1-C 30 Alkoxy, (C2-C6) polyoxyalkylene, C1-C 30 Alkylamide, (C 12 -C 22 )alkylamido (C2-C6)alkyl, (C 12 -C 22 ) alkyl acetate and C1-C 30 Hydroxyalkyl.

[0230] Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (II), preferred ones are tetraalkylammonium salts, for example dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts, in which the alkyl group contains about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts, and also palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, stearylamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, stearylamidopropyldimethylcetostearylammonium salts or stearylamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium salts, such as those marketed under the name 70 of those sold.

[0231] Particular preference is given to using the chlorides, bromides or methylsulfates of these compounds.

[0232] - quaternary ammonium salts of imidazolines, such as those of formula (III):

[0233]

[0234] wherein R5 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example, derived from tallow fatty acid, R6 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group, or an alkyl or alkenyl group containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R7 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, R8 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, X - is an anion selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl sulfonates or alkyl aryl sulfonates, wherein the alkyl and aryl groups preferably contain 1 to 20 carbon atoms and 6 to 30 carbon atoms, respectively.

[0235] Preferably, R5 and R6 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acid, R7 denotes a methyl group and R8 denotes a hydrogen atom.

[0236] Such a product is sold, for example, by the company Rewo under the name W 75 sales,

[0237] - quaternary diammonium or triammonium salts, in particular quaternary diammonium or triammonium salts of formula (IV):

[0238]

[0239] in:

[0240] R9 denotes an alkyl group containing about 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and / or optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms,

[0241] R 10 is selected from hydrogen or an alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group (R 9a )(R 10a )(R 11a )N-(CH2)3, where R 9a , R 10a , R 11a , R 11 , R 12 , R 13 and R 14 may be the same or different and are selected from hydrogen or an alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and

[0242] X - is an anion selected from the group consisting of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C1-C4)alkyl sulfates, (C1-C4)alkyl sulfonates and (C1-C4)alkyl aryl sulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.

[0243] Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P (quaternium salt 89) sold by Finetex, and Finquat CT (quaternium salt 75) sold by Finetex;

[0244] - quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, such as those of the following formula (V):

[0245]

[0246] in:

[0247] R 15 Selected from C1-C6 alkyl and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl;

[0248] R 16 Selected from the group R19-C(O)-; the group R 20 , which is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C 22 Hydrocarbon-based groups; hydrogen atoms;

[0249] R 18 Selected from the group R21-C(O)-; the group R 22 , which is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based group; a hydrogen atom;

[0250] R 17 , R 19 and R 21 may be the same or different and be selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C 21 hydrocarbon-based groups;

[0251] r, s and t may be the same or different and are integers having values ​​from 2 to 6;

[0252] y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10;

[0253] x and z may be the same or different and are integers having values ​​from 0 to 10;

[0254] X - are simple or complex, organic or inorganic anions;

[0255] The premise is that the sum of x+y+z is from 1 to 15; when x is 0, then R 16 Indicator R 20 ; and when z is 0, then R 18 Indicator R 22 .

[0256] Alkyl R 15 R may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear. 15 Methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl is indicated, and more particularly methyl or ethyl.

[0257] Advantageously, the sum of x+y+z is 1-10.

[0258] When R 16 is a hydrocarbon-based group R 20 When it is present, it may be longer and contain from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or it may be shorter and contain from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0259] When R 18 is a hydrocarbon-based group R 22 When , it preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0260] Advantageously, R 17 , R 19 and R 21 may be the same or different, and be selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 11 -C 21 A hydrocarbon-based group, and more particularly selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 11 -C 21 Alkyl and alkenyl.

[0261] Preferably, x and z may be the same or different and equal to 0 or 1.

[0262] Advantageously, y is equal to 1.

[0263] Preferably, r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3 and even more particularly equal to 2.

[0264] Anion X - Preferred are halides (chloride, bromide or iodide) or alkyl sulfates, more particularly methyl sulfate. However, methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, toluenesulfonate, anions derived from organic acids such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion compatible with ammonium carrying an ester function may be used. Anion X - Even more particular are chloride or methyl sulfate.

[0265] In the compositions according to the invention, it is more particularly possible to use ammonium salts of formula (V) in which R 15 Indicates methyl or ethyl, x and y are equal to 1; z is equal to 0 or 1; r, s and t are equal to 2;

[0266] R 16 Selected from the group R19-C(=O)-, methyl, ethyl or C 14 -C 22 hydrocarbon-based groups, as well as hydrogen atoms;

[0267] R 18 is selected from the group R21-C(=O)- and a hydrogen atom;

[0268] R 17 , R 19 and R 21 may be the same or different, and be selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 13 -C 17 The hydrocarbon-based group is preferably selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 13 -C 17 Alkyl and alkenyl.

[0269] Advantageously, these hydrocarbon-based groups are linear.

[0270] Mention may be made, for example, of compounds of formula (V), such as diacyloxyethyl dimethyl ammonium, diacyloxyethyl hydroxyethyl methyl ammonium, monoacyloxyethyl dihydroxyethyl methyl ammonium, triacyloxyethyl methyl ammonium and monoacyloxyethyl hydroxyethyl dimethyl ammonium salts (especially chlorides or methyl sulfates), and mixtures thereof. These acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are more particularly derived from vegetable oils such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be identical or different.

[0271] These products are prepared, for example, by reacting triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine (which may be oxyalkylened) with C 10 -C 30 Fatty acids or C 10 -C 30 Direct esterification of a mixture of fatty acids or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably methyl or ethyl halide), a dialkyl sulfate (preferably methyl or ethyl sulfate), methyl methanesulfonate, methyl p-toluenesulfonate, ethylene chloride or chloroglycerol.

[0272] Such compounds are marketed, for example, by Henkel under the name Sold by Stepan under the name Sold by CECA under the name Sold or sold by Rewo-Witco under the name Sold by WE 18.

[0273] The compositions according to the invention may contain, for example, mixtures of quaternary ammonium monoesters, diesters and triester salts, the majority by weight being the diester salts.

[0274] It is also possible to use ammonium salts containing at least one ester function as described in patents US Pat. No. 4,874,554 and US Pat. No. 4,137,180.

[0275] Behenyl hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride sold under the name Quatarmin BTC 131 by Kao Corporation (KAO) may be used.

[0276] Preferably, the ammonium salt containing at least one ester function contains two ester functions.

[0277] Among the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that can be used, preference is given to using dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salt.

[0278] The term "fatty amine" means a amine group comprising at least one optionally (poly)oxyalkylened primary, secondary or tertiary amine functional group, or a salt thereof and comprising at least one C6-C 30 And preferably C8-C 30 Compounds based on hydrocarbon chains.

[0279] Preferably, the fatty amines used according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

[0280] Fatty amines that may be mentioned include amidoamines. The amidoamines according to the invention may be chosen from fatty amidoamines, it being possible for the fatty chain to be carried by the amine group or by the amide group.

[0281] The term "amidoamine" means a compound comprising at least one amide functional group and at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine functional group.

[0282] The term "fatty amidoamine" refers to an amine generally comprising at least one C6-C 30 Amidoamines based on hydrocarbon chains. Preferably, the fatty amidoamines used according to the invention are not quaternized.

[0283] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines used according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

[0284] Among the fatty amidoamines used according to the invention, mention may be made of the amidoamines of the following formula (VI): RCONHR"N(R')2(VI)

[0285] in:

[0286] -R represents a substituted or unsubstituted, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based group containing 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched C5-C 29 And preferably C7-C 23 Alkyl, or linear or branched C5-C 29 And preferably C7-C 23 alkenyl;

[0287] -R" represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based group containing less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms and better still 3 carbon atoms; and

[0288] -R' may be the same or different and represents a substituted or unsubstituted, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched monovalent hydrocarbon-based group containing less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably methyl.

[0289] The fatty amidoamine of formula (VI) is selected from, for example, oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine (especially the one commercialized by Inolex Chemical Company under the name Lexamine S13 sales products), isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauroamidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, castor oilamidopropyl dimethylamine, soybean oilamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocado oilamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocoamidopropyl dimethylamine, mink oilamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesameamidopropyl dimethylamine, tall oilamidopropyl dimethylamine, olive oilamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, rapeseed oilamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof.

[0290] Preferably, the fatty amidoamine is selected from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, rapeamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof.

[0291] The cationic surfactants are preferably chosen from those of formula (II), those of formula (V), those of formula (VI), and mixtures thereof; better still from those of formula (II) and / or formula (VI); even better still from those of formula (II).

[0292] Preferably, the cationic surfactant may be chosen from tetraalkylammonium salts such as chlorides, bromides or methylsulfates, for example dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts, wherein the alkyl group contains from about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts; dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, such as dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methylsulfate; and mixtures thereof.

[0293] Even more preferably, they are chosen from cetyltrimonium chloride, behenyltrimonium chloride, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methylsulfate, and mixtures thereof.

[0294] Preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise a total amount of cationic surfactants ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 8% by weight and even better still from 1% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0295] Fatty substances

[0296] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more non-silicone fatty substances which may be chosen from solid fatty substances, liquid fatty substances and mixtures thereof.

[0297] The term "non-silicone fatty substance" means a fatty substance which does not contain any Si-O bonds.

[0298] The term "solid fatty matter" means a substance having a solid mass under atmospheric pressure (1.013 × 10 5 Fatty substances having a melting point at 100 °C Pa greater than 25 °C, preferably greater than or equal to 28 °C, preferably greater than or equal to 30 °C.

[0299] Advantageously, the solid fatty substances that can be used according to the invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.

[0300] The solid fatty substances may be chosen from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, waxes and ceramides, and mixtures thereof.

[0301] The term "fatty acid" means a long-chain carboxylic acid comprising 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The solid fatty acid according to the present invention preferably comprises 10 to 30 carbon atoms and also better 14 to 22 carbon atoms. These fatty acids are neither oxyalkylene nor glycerolated. The solid fatty acid that can be used for the present invention is especially selected from myristic acid, cetyl acid, stearyl acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid and mixtures thereof. The fatty acid is different from the previously described (poly) hydroxylated carboxylic acids comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms.

[0302] The term "fatty alcohol" means a long-chain fatty alcohol containing 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and containing at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylened nor glycerolated. Solid fatty alcohols can be saturated or unsaturated and are linear or branched and contain 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still 12 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, solid fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH, wherein R indicates a linear alkyl group optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, the alkyl group containing 8 to 40, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still 12 to 30, or even 12 to 24 atoms and even better still 14 to 22 carbon atoms. The solid fatty alcohols that may be used are preferably chosen from saturated and linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated (monohydric) alcohols containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even 12 to 24 atoms and better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0303] The solid fatty alcohols that can be used can be chosen, alone or as a mixture:

[0304] -Myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol);

[0305] - Cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol);

[0306] - Stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecyl alcohol);

[0307] -Arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol);

[0308] -Behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol);

[0309] - wood wax alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol);

[0310] -Ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol);

[0311] -Mondanol (or 1-octacosanol);

[0312] - Beeswax alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).

[0313] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or mixtures thereof, such as cetearyl stearyl alcohol; still better, the solid fatty alcohol is cetyl stearyl alcohol.

[0314] The solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols that can be used are preferably selected from the group consisting of C9-C 26 Fatty carboxylic acids and / or C9-C 26 Esters of fatty alcohols.

[0315] Preferably, the solid fatty esters are esters of a linear or branched saturated carboxylic acid containing at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly 12 to 24 carbon atoms and a linear or branched saturated monohydric alcohol containing at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acid may optionally be hydroxylated and is preferably a monocarboxylic acid.

[0316] It is also possible to use esters of C4-C22 di- or tri-carboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tri-carboxylic acids and C2-C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or penta-hydric alcohols.

[0317] Mention may be made especially of octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

[0318] Preferably, the solid ester of fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol is selected from palmitic acid C9-C 26 Alkyl esters, especially myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate or stearyl palmitate; myristic acid C9-C 26 Alkyl esters such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate, and myristyl myristate; and stearic acid C9-C 26 Alkyl esters, especially myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate and stearyl stearate; and mixtures thereof.

[0319] Particularly preferably, the solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols are selected from myristyl stearate, myristyl palmitate and mixtures thereof.

[0320] For the purposes of the present invention, waxes are lipophilic compounds that are solid at 25° C. and atmospheric pressure, have a reversible solid / liquid state change, have a melting point greater than about 40° C., which can be as high as 200° C., and have an anisotropic crystal structure in the solid state. Generally, the size of the wax crystals is such that they diffract and / or scatter light, providing a substantially opaque, turbid appearance to the composition containing them. By bringing the wax to its melting point, it is possible to make it miscible with the oil and form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but when returning the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, a recrystallization of the wax is achieved, which is microscopically and macroscopically detectable (opalescence).

[0321] In particular, the waxes suitable for use in the present invention may be chosen from waxes of animal, vegetable or mineral origin, non-silicone synthetic waxes, and mixtures thereof.

[0322] Mention may be made especially of hydrocarbon-based waxes, for example beeswax or modified beeswax (cera bellina), lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives, spermaceti; cork fiber or sugar cane wax, olive tree wax, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, esparto wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and sumac wax, absolute waxes of flowers; montan wax, orange wax, lemon wax, microcrystalline wax, paraffin wax, vaseline, lignite and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes and wax copolymers obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, and also esters thereof.

[0323] Mention may also be made of C20 to C60 microcrystalline waxes, such as Microwax HW.

[0324] Mention may also be made of the MW 500 polyethylene wax sold under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene.

[0325] Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils containing linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains. Among these waxes, mention may be made in particular of isomerized jojoba oils, such as trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oils, in particular those marketed by the company Desert Whale under the trade reference No. Products manufactured or sold, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut kernel oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil and bis(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, especially by Heterene Company under the name Products for sale.

[0326] It is also possible to use waxes obtained by hydrogenating castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the name Phytowax Castor by the company Sophim. and The ones that are sold.

[0327] Waxes that can also be used are C20 to C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearates (the alkyl group contains 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture. Such waxes are especially marketed by Koster Keunen under the name Kester Wax K Hydroxypolyester K and Kester Wax K Sale.

[0328] It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention; mention may be made in particular of carnauba microcrystalline waxes, such as those marketed under the name MicroCare by Micro Powders. Products sold; synthetic wax microcrystalline wax, such as those sold by American Micronized Powder Company under the name MicroEase Products sold; microcrystalline wax consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as that sold by the American Micronized Company under the name Micro Care and Products sold; microcrystalline wax consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and synthetic waxes, such as those sold by the American Micronized Company under the name Micro Care Products sold; Polyethylene microcrystalline wax, such as those sold by American Micronized Powder Company under the name Micropoly and products sold; and polytetrafluoroethylene microcrystalline wax, such as that sold by the American Micronized Company under the name Microslip and Products for sale.

[0329] The waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes, for example paraffin, vaseline, lignite or ozokerite; vegetable waxes, for example cocoa butter, shea butter or cork fiber or sugar cane wax, olive wax, rice bran wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, carnauba wax, chrysanthemum wax, candelilla wax, phragmites wax or neat flower waxes, such as the blackcurrant flower essence wax sold by Bertin (France); waxes of animal origin, for example beeswax or modified beeswax (cera bellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.

[0330] The ceramides or ceramide analogs such as glycosylceramides that can be used in the composition according to the invention are known; mention may in particular be made of ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the Dawning classification.

[0331] The ceramide or its analogues which can be used preferably correspond to the following formula:

[0332]

[0333] in:

[0334] - R1 indicates a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group derived from a C14-C30 fatty acid, which group may be substituted by a hydroxyl group in the α position or a hydroxyl group in the ω position, which hydroxyl group is esterified with a saturated or unsaturated C16-C30 fatty acid;

[0335] - R2 indicates a hydrogen atom or a (glycosyl)n group, a (galactosyl)m group or a sulfogalactosyl group, wherein n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8;

[0336] - R3 indicates a saturated or unsaturated C15-C26 hydrocarbon-based group at the α position, which may be substituted by one or more C1-C14 alkyl groups;

[0337] It should be understood that in the case of natural ceramides or glycosylceramides, R3 may also indicate a C15-C26 α-hydroxyalkyl group, which hydroxyl group is optionally esterified with a C16-C30 α-hydroxy acid.

[0338] Preferably, ceramide is used, wherein R1 indicates a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group derived from a C14-C30 fatty acid; R2 indicates a galactosyl group or a sulfogalactosyl group; and R3 indicates a -CH=CH-(CH2)12-CH3 group.

[0339] More particularly preferred ceramides are compounds in which R1 indicates a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group derived from a C16-C22 fatty acid; R2 indicates a hydrogen atom; and R3 indicates a saturated or unsaturated straight-chain C15 group.

[0340] The following compounds can also be used, wherein R1 indicates a compound derived from C 12 -C 22 a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group of a fatty acid; R2 indicates a galactosyl group or a sulfogalactosyl group, and R3 indicates a saturated or unsaturated C 12 -C 22 A hydrocarbon-based group and preferably -CH=CH-(CH2) 12 -CH3 group.

[0341] As particularly preferred compounds, mention may also be made of 2-N-linoleoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxypalmitoyl]aminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3,4-triol, and In particular, N-stearoyl phytosphingosine, 2-N-palmitoylaminohexadecane-1,3-diol, N-linoleoyl sphingosine, N-oleoyl sphingosine, N-palmitoyl sphingosine, N-stearoyl sphingosine, and N-behenoyl sphingosine, N-docosanoyl-N-methyl-D-glucosamine, cetyl acid N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)amide and bis(N-hydroxyethyl-N-cetyl)malonamide; and mixtures thereof. Preferably, N-oleoyl sphingosine will be used.

[0342] As liquid fatty substances that can be used, mention may be made of liquid hydrocarbons, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, triglyceride-type oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, mineral oils and mixtures thereof.

[0343] Liquid fatty substances have a 5 Pa) of less than or equal to 25° C., preferably less than or equal to 20° C. Advantageously, the liquid fatty substance is not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

[0344] It is contemplated that fatty alcohols, fatty esters and fatty acids contain more particularly at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical containing 6 to 40 and better still 8 to 30 carbon atoms, which may optionally be substituted in particular by one or more, in particular 1 to 4, hydroxyl groups. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may contain one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0345] Liquid hydrocarbons can be C6 to C 18 Liquid hydrocarbons, and are linear, branched or optionally cyclic; they are preferably selected from C8-C 16 , especially C 10 -C 14 Alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane or isoparaffins such as isohexadecane or isodecane, and mixtures thereof.

[0346] The liquid hydrocarbons may also be chosen from those of mineral or synthetic origin containing more than 16 carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched; mention may be made of liquid paraffin or liquid vaseline, polydecene, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as and mixtures thereof.

[0347] The triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin may be chosen from liquid fatty acid triglycerides containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, such as heptanoic or caprylic triglycerides, or alternatively, such as sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grape seed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, almond oil, macadamia oil, aurora oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric triglycerides (such as those sold by Stéarinerie Dubois in France or by Dynamit Nobel under the name 810, 812 and 818), jojoba oil and shea butter, and mixtures thereof.

[0348] The liquid fatty alcohol may be chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched alcohols containing from 6 to 40 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples that may be mentioned include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, ricinoleyl alcohol, undecenyl alcohol and linoleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0349] As regards the liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides mentioned above, mention may be made in particular of saturated or unsaturated, linear C1 to C 26 or branched chain C3 to C 26 Aliphatic monobasic or polybasic acids and saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain C1 to C 26or branched chain C3 to C 26 Esters of aliphatic monohydric or polyhydric alcohols, the total carbon number of these esters is greater than or equal to 6, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.

[0350] Preferably, for esters of monohydric alcohols, at least one of the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.

[0351] Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate ; Isostearyl palmitate; Methyl acetyl ricinoleate; Octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate; Octyldodecyl erucate; Oleyl erucate; Ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate; Alkyl myristates such as isopropyl 2-octyldodecyl myristate, isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.

[0352] Preferably, among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, use will be made of ethyl or isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate and mixtures thereof.

[0353] Still within the context of this variant, it is also possible to use esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols and esters of monocarboxylic acids, dicarboxylic acids or tricarboxylic acids and C2-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols.

[0354] Mention may be made in particular of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearate; pentaerythritol monoricinoleate; pentaerythritol tetraisononanoate; pentaerythritol tetranonanoate; pentaerythritol tetraisostearate; pentaerythritol tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl tricaprylate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and polyethylene glycol distearate, and mixtures thereof.

[0355] The composition may also contain sugar esters and diesters of C6 to C30 and preferably C12 to C22 fatty acids as fatty esters. It should be noted that the term "sugar" refers to oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds with several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions and containing at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

[0356] Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, in particular alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.

[0357] Sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising esters or mixtures of esters of the above-mentioned sugars and linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6 to C30 and preferably C12 to C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may contain one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0358] The esters according to this variant may also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, polyesters and mixtures thereof.

[0359] These esters may be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonate or mixtures thereof, such as, in particular, the mixed esters oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate and palmito-stearate.

[0360] More particularly, use is made of monoesters and diesters and especially mono- or di-oleates, -stearates, -behenates, -oleyl palmitates, -linoleates, -linolenates and -oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose, and mixtures thereof.

[0361] An example that may be mentioned is the company established under the name A product sold by DO which is methyl glucose dioleate.

[0362] Preferably, liquid esters of monobasic acids and monohydric alcohols will be used.

[0363] Preferably, the fatty substance is chosen from triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, liquid C6-C 18 Hydrocarbons, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

[0364] Preferably, the composition according to the invention may contain a total content of fatty substances ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, better still from 1% to 18% by weight, preferably from 2% to 15% by weight and even better still from 5% to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0365] Other compounds

[0366] The composition according to the invention comprises water in a concentration ranging from 50% to 95% by weight, for example from 55% to 90% by weight, in particular from 60% to 85% by weight and better still from 65% to 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0367] The pH of the composition may be between 2.5 and 8, preferably between 3 and 7, or even between 4 and 6.

[0368] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more preferably hydrophilic (water-soluble or water-miscible) organic solvents which are liquid at 25° C. and 1 atm, which may be chosen from C1-C6 aliphatic or aromatic monoalcohols, C2-C8 polyols and C3-C7 polyol ethers. Advantageously, the organic solvent is chosen from C2-C4 mono-, di- or tri-glycols. It may advantageously be chosen from ethanol, isopropanol, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, 1,2-propylene glycol (propylene glycol) and mixtures thereof.

[0369] The composition according to the invention may also contain at least one or more standard cosmetic ingredients, which are especially chosen from thickeners, gelling agents, all different from nonionic polysaccharides; screening agents; anti-dandruff agents; antioxidants; chelating agents; reducing agents; oxidation bases, coupling agents, oxidants, direct dyes; hair straightening agents; pearlescent agents and sunscreens; mica, mother-of-pearl, glitter flakes; plasticizers or coalescing agents; pigments; fillers; fragrances; alkalizing agents or acidifying agents; silanes. A person skilled in the art will carefully choose the ingredients included in the composition and also their amounts so that they do not impair the properties of the composition of the invention.

[0370] The composition according to the invention may additionally advantageously comprise one or more silicone polymers derived from amino acids, in particular silicone polymers of the following formula (A1) or (A2):

[0371]

[0372]

[0373] in:

[0374] - n is an integer between 1 and 100, preferably between 1 and 50, more preferably between 1 and 20, better still between 1 and 10, even better still between 1 and 5, even better still between 1 and 3,

[0375] -R1 is a polypeptide chain derived from an amino acid such as cysteine.

[0376] Preferably, the silicone polymer derived from amino acids corresponds to formula (A1) wherein R1 is a hydrolyzed vegetable protein residue.

[0377] Mention may be made in particular of the compounds having as INCI names: hydrolyzed wheat protein PG-propyl silanetriol, hydrolyzed vegetable protein PG-propyl silanetriol or cystine bis-PG-propyl silanetriol, which are marketed by Croda under the name W. WPF, PE or Cystine Sales.

[0379] Preferably, the silicone polymer derived from an amino acid may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content that may range from 0.1% to 2% by weight, in particular from 0.2% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0380] Better still, the silicone polymer derived from amino acids of formula (A1) in which R1 is a hydrolyzed vegetable protein residue may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 2% by weight, especially from 0.2% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0381] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, a cosmetic composition, preferably a cosmetic composition for hair, may comprise:

[0382] - one or more amino acid compounds corresponding to formula (I) as defined above, in which p=2 and R represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated, linear or branched (C1-C4) alkyl group, which is optionally interrupted by a -S- heteroatom and / or optionally substituted by one or two groups chosen from hydroxyl, amino or -NH-C(NH)-NH2; better still, R represents a hydrogen atom;

[0383] The amino acid type compound is preferably present in a total content of 1% to 8% by weight, in particular 1.1% to 8% by weight, better still 1.2% to 7% by weight, or even 1.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0384] one or more hydroxylated polycarboxylic acids containing 4 to 6 carbon atoms, 1 to 3 OH groups and 2 or 3 COOH groups and / or their salts, preferably present in a total content of at least 3% by weight, better still from 3% to 10% by weight, especially from 3.5% to 8% by weight, better still from 3.8% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0385] - optionally one or more cationic polysaccharides, in particular chosen from cationic cellulose and / or galactomannan gums; preferably present in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0386] - optionally one or more nonionic polysaccharides, in particular chosen (alone or as a mixture) from nonionic guar gums optionally modified with (poly)hydroxy(C1-C6-alkyl); preferably present in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0387] - optionally one or more nonionic surfactants; preferably the nonionic surfactants are present in a total content ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention;

[0388] - optionally one or more cationic surfactants; they are preferably present in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 8% by weight and even better still from 1% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and

[0389] - Water, the concentration of which ranges from 50% to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0390] The cosmetic compositions according to the invention find particularly advantageous use in the field of hair care, in particular for cleaning and / or conditioning the hair. The composition for hair is preferably a lotion, a hair mask or a conditioner, but can also be in the form of a shampoo, in particular a conditioning shampoo, which can be rinsed off, or else in the form of a pre-shampoo to be rinsed off or left on before applying the shampoo.

[0391] The cosmetic composition may or may not be rinsed off after application to keratin materials, in particular hair. Thus, after a possible dwell time, rinsing (for example with water) may be optional. Preferably, it is rinsed off after a possible dwell time.

[0392] A subject of the present invention is also a cosmetic treatment method, especially a hair treatment method, in particular for washing and / or conditioning keratin fibers, especially hair, which method comprises applying to said fibers a cosmetic composition according to the invention, preferably followed by rinsing after a possible leave-on time.

[0393] The subject matter is preferably a method for treating hair, in particular for washing and / or conditioning hair which has been sensitized, weakened and / or damaged, or which is otherwise loaded with metal ions, in particular copper and / or calcium.

[0394] The method may also comprise at least two consecutive steps of applying to the hair, in particular to already sensitized, weakened and / or damaged hair, a composition as defined above; this is then known as a multiple application method.

[0395] A subject of the present invention is also the use of a cosmetic composition according to the invention for strengthening hair, in particular sensitized, weakened and / or damaged, and / or for limiting the loss of shine of hair, in particular sensitized, weakened and / or damaged.

[0396] The subject of the invention is also a method for the cosmetic treatment of hair, in particular sensitized, weakened and / or damaged hair, comprising:

[0397] - a step (i) of washing the hair, which step comprises applying a washing cosmetic composition A comprising one or more anionic and / or amphoteric surfactants, followed by

[0398] - a step (ii) of applying to the hair a cosmetic composition B as defined according to the invention, followed by

[0399] - a step (iii) of conditioning the hair, comprising applying a cosmetic care composition C comprising one or more conditioning agents chosen from cationic surfactants, cationic polymers, silicones, fatty substances and mixtures thereof.

[0400] Step (i) of washing the hair may or may not be followed by a leave-in time, for example a leave-in time of 1 to 15 minutes, especially 2 to 5 minutes.

[0401] This step may or may not be followed by a rinsing step, for example with water, before proceeding to step (ii).

[0402] Preferably, said step (i) is followed by a rinsing step, after a residence time of possibly 1-15 minutes.Thus, the method according to the invention preferably comprises an intermediate rinsing step between steps (i) and (ii).

[0403] Step (ii) of applying the cosmetic composition according to the invention to the hair may or may not be followed by a leave-on time, for example a leave-on time ranging from 1 to 15 minutes, in particular from 2 to 5 minutes.

[0404] This step may or may not be followed by a rinsing step, for example with water, before proceeding to step (iii).

[0405] Preferably, step (ii) is not followed by a rinsing step before performing step (iii).

[0406] Step (iii) of conditioning the hair may or may not be followed by a leave-in time, for example a leave-in time of from 1 to 15 minutes, especially from 2 to 5 minutes.

[0407] This step may or may not be followed by a rinsing step, for example with water.

[0408] Preferably, said step (iii) is followed by a rinsing step, after a residence time of possibly 1 to 15 minutes; and optionally a drying step.

[0409] Steps (i), (ii) and (iii) are carried out successively or sequentially, which means that step (i) is carried out before step (ii) and step (ii) is carried out before step (iii); there may be intermediate steps between each of these steps, such as dwelling and / or rinsing and / or drying steps.

[0410] Preferably, steps (i) and (ii) are separated by a period of at most one hour, better still 1 to 50 minutes, or even 5 to 45 minutes.

[0411] Preferably, steps (ii) and (iii) are separated by a period of at most one hour, better still 1 to 50 minutes, or even 5 to 45 minutes.

[0412] A subject of the present invention is also a method for the cosmetic treatment of hair, in particular hair that has been sensitized, weakened and / or damaged, comprising at least two consecutive steps of applying a cosmetic composition as defined according to the invention.

[0413] In other words, the composition is applied to the hair several times successively, that is to say the steps of applying the composition according to the invention are carried out one after another with or without an intermediate rinsing step.

[0414] Preferably, the method according to the invention comprises at least a step of rinsing the hair between two consecutive steps of applying the composition.

[0415] The residence time of the composition according to the invention on the hair may vary between a few seconds (for example 10 seconds) and several minutes (for example 5 to 60 minutes), preferably between 1 and 30 minutes and better still between 2 and 15 minutes.

[0416] Application to the hair can be carried out, for example, by means of a comb, a fine brush, with the aid of a coarse brush or with the fingers.

[0417] Between each successive step of applying the composition, the hair may be rinsed and / or may be dried.

[0418] Rinsing can be done with water or shampoo after a possible dwell time. The hair can then be squeezed dry, optionally washed with a standard shampoo and then dried.

[0419] The rinsing step may also be followed by a drying step, for example at room temperature (25° C.) or at a temperature greater than 40° C. Preferably, the hair is dried with a stream of air in addition to the supply of heat. During drying, a mechanical action may be applied to the locks of hair, such as combing, brushing or running the fingers through. The drying step of the method according to the invention may be carried out with a hood, a hair dryer or a hair straightener. When the drying step is carried out with a hood or a hair dryer, the drying temperature is between 40° C. and 110° C., preferably between 50° C. and 90° C. When the drying step is carried out with a hair straightener, the drying temperature is between 110° C. and 220° C., preferably between 130° C. and 200° C.

[0420] The hair treatment method according to the invention may comprise more than two consecutive steps of applying to the hair a composition as defined above, for example at least 3 consecutive steps, or even at least 4 consecutive steps. These consecutive applications may also be carried out over a period of weeks or even months.

[0421] The time between each administration step may advantageously be between 1 and several days, for example 1 to 7 days, which corresponds to weekly administration of the composition, or between 2 and 4 days, which corresponds to twice weekly administration of the composition.

[0422] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention but are not limiting in nature.

[0423] Unless otherwise indicated, in the following examples all amounts are indicated as mass percentage (g% AM) of active material relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0424] Example 1

[0425] The following compositions according to the invention were prepared from the ingredients (g % AM) shown in the table below:

[0426] [Table 1]

[0427]

[0428] Composition A1 is in the form of a milky white cream shampoo, and composition A2 is in the form of a translucent shampoo; they can be advantageously used to cleanse the hair.

[0429] The composition enables the production of a rich and creamy foam that is easily distributed throughout the hair. After application, rinsing and drying, the hair is stronger, more resistant and has a good shine.

[0430] Example 2

[0431] The composition A3 according to the invention and the comparative composition A'3 were prepared from the ingredients (g % AM) indicated in the following table:

[0432] [Table 2]

[0433]

[0434]

[0435] Composition A3 is in the form of a cream which can advantageously be used as a hair mask after shampooing and rinsed off after a leave-on time of a few minutes.

[0436] This composition can be used to detangle the hair, thereby adding conditioning and strength (body and overall effect).

[0437] The composition also has hair strengthening properties.

[0438] The strengthening was measured using the DSC technique.

[0439] (i) Preparation of hair strands

[0440] The measurements are carried out on tresses that have been previously bleached manually and then treated five times according to the following regimen: the tresses are washed with a neutral shampoo, then rinsed, 2 g of the composition to be tested are applied to each tress of 5.7 g, the treatment is left on for 5 minutes and then rinsed again.

[0441] (ii) Measurement method

[0442] The differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) technique is a method known to those skilled in the art for quantifying the strengthening of proteins in the cortex of keratin fibers (Kinetics of the changes imparted to the main structural components of human hair by thermal treatment, https: / / doi.org / 10.1016 / j.tca.2018.01.014 & F.-J. Wortmann and H. Deutz, J. Appl. Polym Sci., 48, 137 (1993)). The principle of the test is to measure the denaturation temperature of the protein. It is generally believed that the higher the denaturation temperature of the protein, the better the integrity of the protein in the cortex, which reflects the reduction of fiber breakage.

[0443] The denaturation temperature is directly related to the binding density of the keratin proteins present in the cortex. Therefore, the lower the denaturation temperature, the lower the binding density between the proteins: the disulfide bridges break and the cortex is damaged. A person skilled in the art considers a difference of 2°C to be a significant change.

[0444] The machine used to make the measurements was a TA Instruments DSC Q20 reference instrument. This machine measures the energy flow during heating of the sample. The temperature of the maximum energy flow represents the denaturation temperature.

[0445] (iii) Results

[0446] The results of the denaturation temperature (Td) measurements of each tress treated according to the previously described protocol are summarized in the table below and correspond to the average of three measurements carried out on each tress.

[0447] [Table 3]

[0448]

[0449] *SD = Standard Deviation

[0450] These results show that the use of the composition according to the invention increases the binding density of the keratin present in the cortex of the treated hair, thus making it possible to repair damaged hair.

[0451] Furthermore, the denaturation temperature of the hair tresses treated according to the invention is superior to the denaturation temperature measured for natural, undamaged hair, indicating that the hair has been repaired.

[0452] Example 3

[0453] The following compositions (composition A1 according to the invention and comparative composition A2) were prepared from the ingredients (g% AM) shown in the table below:

[0454] [Table 4]

[0455]

[0456]

[0457] Composition A1 or A2 is applied to a tress weighing 5.4 g of hair (moderately sensitized hair, SA20 type) previously washed with a conventional shampoo (DOP), at a rate of 2.5 g of composition for 5.4 g of tress; the tress is kneaded 5 times.

[0458] The tresses were rinsed with water (21 passes between fingers), wrung out (5 passes between fingers), dried with a hair dryer and then detangled for evaluation.

[0459] The smoothness performance of the detangled dry hair was blindly evaluated by 5 experts on a scale ranging from 0 (very poor) to 5 (very good) (0.5 steps per step).

[0460] The assessment is tactile: the expert pinches the lock of hair between thumb and index finger and slides his fingers along the lock from the top to the ends; he assesses whether the hair has rough edges and whether the hair catches the fingers.

[0461] The results are as follows:

[0462] [Table 5]

[0463]

[0464]

[0465] On the smoothness criterion, all experts judged composition A1 to be superior to composition A2.

[0466] The average of the scores obtained when applying composition A1 (according to the invention) compared to composition A2 (comparative) shows an improvement in smoothness relative to the touch criterion. These results are significant in view of the standard deviation.

[0467] Example 4

[0468] The following compositions (composition B1 according to the invention and comparative composition B2) were prepared from the ingredients (g% AM) shown in the table below:

[0469] [Table 6]

[0470]

[0471] Composition B1 or B2 is applied to a tress weighing 5.4 g of hair (moderately sensitized hair, SA20 type) previously washed with a conventional shampoo (DOP), at a rate of 2.5 g of composition for 5.4 g of tress; the tress is kneaded 5 times.

[0472] The tresses are rinsed with water (21 passes between the fingers), wrung out (5 passes between the fingers), dried with a hair dryer and then untangled. This regimen is repeated 4 times. At the end of the 4th cycle, the tresses are not dried, but only untangled for evaluation (wet evaluation).

[0473] The smoothness performance of wet hair after detangling was blindly evaluated by 5 experts on a scale ranging from 0 (very poor) to 5 (very good) (0.5 steps per step).

[0474] The assessment is tactile: the expert holds the lock of hair between thumb and index finger and slides his fingers along the lock from the top to the ends; he assesses whether the hair has rough edges and whether the hair catches the fingers.

[0475] The results are as follows:

[0476] [Table 7]

[0477]

[0478] The average of the scores obtained when applying composition B1 (according to the invention) compared to composition B2 (comparative) shows an improvement in smoothness relative to the touch criterion. These results are significant in view of the standard deviation.

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition, preferably a cosmetic composition for hair, comprising: (i) one or more amino acid type compounds selected from compounds corresponding to formula (I) and / or salts thereof, in particular alkali metal salts or alkaline earth metal salts, or zinc salts: Where p is an integer equal to 1 or 2, it should be understood that: - when p=1, R and the nitrogen atom form a saturated heterocyclic ring containing 5 to 8 ring members, preferably 5 ring members, which ring may be substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl or (C1-C4) alkyl; - When p=2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated, straight chain or branched (C1-C 12 )alkyl, preferably (C1-C4)alkyl, which is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -S-, -NH- or -C(NH)- and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH, -CONH2 or -NH-C(NH)-NH2; The amino acid type compound is present in a total content of 1% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, (ii) one or more hydroxylated polycarboxylic acids comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms; preferably comprising four to six carbon atoms, one to three OH groups and two to three COOH groups; and / or salts thereof, said hydroxylated polycarboxylic acids and / or their salts being present in a total content of at least 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and (iii) water, the concentration of which ranges from 50% to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. The composition according to claim 1, comprising one or more compounds corresponding to formula (I) and / or their salts, wherein p=2 and R represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated, linear or branched (C1-C4) alkyl group, which is optionally interrupted by an -S- heteroatom and / or optionally substituted by one or two groups selected from hydroxyl, amino or -NH-C(NH)-NH2; even better, p=2 and R represents a hydrogen atom.

3. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein The amino acid compound is selected from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, salts thereof, especially alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts or zinc salts, and mixtures thereof; preferably selected from glycine, salts thereof, especially alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts or zinc salts, and mixtures thereof.

4. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein The total content of the amino acid type compounds of formula (I) ranges from 1.1% to 8% by weight, better still from 1.2% to 7% by weight, or even from 1.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. The composition according to claim 1 , comprising one or more hydroxylated polycarboxylic acids selected from tartaric acid or citric acid and salts thereof, in particular alkali metal salts or alkaline earth metal salts such as sodium citrate and / or sodium tartrate; better still citric acid or salts thereof, in particular alkali metal salts or alkaline earth metal salts such as sodium citrate.

6. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein The total content of hydroxylated polycarboxylic acids containing in total from 2 to 8 carbon atoms and / or their salts ranges from 3% to 10% by weight, in particular from 3.5% to 8% by weight and better still from 3.8% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Composition according to any of the preceding claims, comprising one or more cationic polymers, preferably chosen from cationic polysaccharides, especially cationic cellulose, cationic galactomannan gum, especially cationic guar gum, and also mixtures thereof, the total amount of cationic polymers ranging, in particular, from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to any of the preceding claims, comprising one or more nonionic polysaccharides, in particular chosen - alone or as a mixture - from cellulose, galactomannans and nonionic derivatives thereof, in particular ethers thereof; better still chosen - alone or as a mixture - from nonionic guar gum optionally modified with (poly)hydroxy(C1-C6)alkyl, in particular hydroxypropyl, and / or substituted or unsubstituted cellulose, and cellulose ethers such as (C1-C4)alkylcellulose and (poly)hydroxy(C1-C4)alkylcellulose; preferably chosen - alone or as a mixture - from nonionic guar gum optionally modified with (poly)hydroxy(C1-C6)alkyl, in particular hydroxypropyl; the total amount of nonionic polysaccharides preferably ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Composition according to any of the preceding claims, comprising one or more nonionic surfactants, the total content of which ranges from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 3% by weight, especially relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

10. Composition according to any of the preceding claims, comprising one or more cationic surfactants, the total amount of which ranges from 0.1% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 8% by weight, even better still from 1% to 6% by weight, especially relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. Composition according to any of the preceding claims, comprising one or more non-silicone fatty substances, preferably chosen from triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, liquid C6-C 18 Hydrocarbons, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof; the total amount of said non-silicone fatty substances ranges in particular from 0.1% to 20% by weight, better still from 1% to 18% by weight, preferably from 2% to 15% by weight, better still from 5% to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. Composition according to any of the preceding claims, comprising water in a concentration ranging from 55% to 90% by weight, in particular from 60% to 85% by weight, better still from 65% to 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. A cosmetic treatment method, in particular a hair treatment method, in particular for washing and / or conditioning keratin fibers, in particular hair, in particular sensitized, weakened and / or damaged hair, or hair loaded with metal ions, in particular copper and / or calcium, comprising applying to the fibers a cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, preferably followed by rinsing after a possible dwell time.

14. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12 for strengthening hair, in particular already sensitized, weakened and / or damaged hair, and / or for limiting the loss of its shine.

15. A method for the cosmetic treatment of hair, especially hair that has been sensitized, weakened and / or damaged, the method comprising: - a step (i) of washing the hair, said step comprising applying a washing cosmetic composition A comprising one or more anionic and / or amphoteric surfactants, followed by - a step (ii) of applying to the hair a cosmetic composition B as defined in any one of claims 1 to 12, followed by - a step (iii) of conditioning the hair, said step comprising applying a cosmetic care composition C comprising one or more conditioning agents chosen from cationic surfactants, cationic polymers, silicones, fatty substances and mixtures thereof.

16. A method for the cosmetic treatment of hair, in particular hair that has been sensitized, weakened and / or damaged, comprising at least two consecutive steps of applying a cosmetic composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 12.

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