Knitted fabric and dyeing and finishing method thereof
By using polyester fiber and viscose fiber blended in knitted fabrics and using specific dyeing and finishing processing methods, the problem of poor anti-flushing and pilling performance of knitted fabrics is solved, and the fabric is bright in color, wash-resistant and friction-resistant. and improve the performance of anti-hair balls.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- CN202411538949.7
- Authority / Receiving Office
- CN · China
- Patent Type
- Applications(China)
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2024-10-30
- Publication Date
- 2025-02-07
AI Technical Summary
It is difficult to effectively solve the problem of anti-fouling and pilling performance during the dyeing and finishing process of existing knitted fabrics, especially fabrics mixed with ordinary polyester and viscose fiber.
Use polyester fiber and viscose fiber blended yarn with a mass ratio of 1: (0.1-10). Through alkali reduction treatment, viscose component polishing and polyester component dyeing, viscose component dyeing, molding and pre-shrinking The dyeing and finishing processing method improves the anti-blasting performance of the fabric.
Through this method, the anti-fouling and pilling performance of the knitted fabric is significantly improved, with bright colors, excellent washing and friction fastness, and soft feel, which can better meet the needs of the clothing industry.
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Abstract
Description
Technical Field
[0001] The invention relates to the technical field of textile printing and dyeing, and in particular to a knitted fabric and a dyeing and finishing method thereof. Background Art
[0002] Polyester fiber is one of the main raw materials for clothing fabrics. It has excellent strength, warmth retention and dyeing properties, and occupies an important position in textile fibers. Traditional polyester fiber is polymerized from two monomers, terephthalic acid and diethylene glycol. Its macromolecular chain segments are linear, with high regularity, high fiber crystallinity and excellent strength. The good strength makes clothing fabrics woven from polyester staple yarns very easy to pilling when rubbed during wearing, which seriously affects the quality of clothing.
[0003] Viscose fiber is a kind of regenerated cellulose fiber, which is soft to the touch, has good hygroscopicity, and has a crystallinity significantly lower than cotton fiber. It is a large category of textile fibers. Ordinary viscose fiber will produce a skin-core structure when it is spun into fibers, with a thicker skin layer. It will absorb moisture and swell violently during the printing and dyeing process. After drying, the fiber is very easy to separate from the main body of the yarn, resulting in hairiness. During the wearing process, the hairiness will be entangled into balls due to friction, affecting the appearance of the cloth.
[0004] Polyester-viscose blended knitted fabric is a knitted fabric blended from polyester and viscose fibers. It has both the strength and abrasion resistance of polyester and the softness and moisture absorption of viscose fibers. However, its anti-pilling performance is a difficult problem to solve in the dyeing and finishing of polyester-viscose blended knitted fabric.
[0005] CN 104337079 A discloses a knitted fabric and its production method and use. The proportion of viscose components in the knitted fabric is low. If the proportion exceeds 25%, the anti-pilling problem of the fabric cannot be solved. The method also limits the yarn count and spinning method of the blended yarn, which limits its wide application. CN 107574528 A discloses a method for obtaining a blended fabric with anti-pilling by spinning and plying fibers that are easy to pilling and fibers that are not easy to pilling separately and then plying them, and using the different shrinkage rates between the fibers. However, the spinning method of this scheme is relatively special and the scope of application is limited. CN 111778613 A discloses a viscose fabric and a preparation method for improving the anti-pilling performance of viscose fabrics. This scheme can only be used for woven fabrics, and the ingredients are limited to viscose. CN 114411423 A discloses a continuous processing technology for improving the pilling of liquid-dyed fabrics. The scheme does not make a corresponding description of the printing and dyeing processing of white grey cloth. The wet strength of viscose fiber is poor, and pilling is very easy to occur during the printing and dyeing process, which cannot be solved. CN 116657315 A discloses a processing method for improving the skinny and anti-pilling performance of polyester / viscose blended fabrics. The scheme requires the use of low-melting point polyester and iterative polyester, and the composition restrictions are large. It is impossible to significantly improve the anti-pilling performance of ordinary polyester and viscose blended knitted fabrics. CN 118007263 A discloses a method for improving the anti-pilling ability of polyester fiber, which solves the anti-pilling performance of polyester fiber from the raw material end, but cannot solve the pilling problem of blended fabrics. CN 116641178 A discloses a production method and application of anti-pilling, brightly colored polyester knitted fabrics, but the method is limited to the processing of cationic modified polyester fabrics and cannot solve the quality problem of blended fabrics.
[0006] It can be seen that the existing methods for improving the anti-pilling performance of knitted fabrics can only be used to treat single-component fabrics (containing only polyester fibers or viscose fibers) or fabrics containing special polyester fibers / viscose fibers. There is still a lack of methods for improving the anti-pilling performance of blended knitted fabrics formed by ordinary polyester and different viscose fibers. Summary of the invention
[0007] The present invention aims to solve at least one of the above-mentioned technical problems existing in the prior art. To this end, one of the purposes of the present invention is to provide a blended yarn; the second purpose of the present invention is to provide a knitted fabric; the third purpose of the present invention is to provide a dyeing and finishing method of the knitted fabric.
[0008] In order to achieve the above object, the technical solution adopted by the present invention is:
[0009] A first aspect of the present invention provides a blended yarn, wherein the blended yarn is formed by blending polyester fiber and viscose fiber; the mass ratio of the polyester fiber to the viscose fiber is 1:(0.1-10).
[0010] Preferably, the mass ratio of the polyester fiber to the viscose fiber is 1:(0.3-3); further preferably, the mass ratio of the polyester fiber to the viscose fiber is 1:(0.8-1.2).
[0011] Preferably, the polyester fiber has a fineness of 0.5-10 dtex and a length of 10-80 mm; further preferably, the polyester fiber has a fineness of 0.8-3 dtex and a length of 20-50 mm.
[0012] Preferably, the polyester fiber is selected from at least one of glossy polyester fiber, semi-dull polyester fiber and fully dull polyester fiber.
[0013] Preferably, the polyester fiber is selected from at least one of polyethylene terephthalate fiber, polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber, polybutylene terephthalate fiber, recycled polyester fiber, cationic dyeable modified polyester, and iterated polyester; further preferably, the polyester fiber is polyethylene terephthalate fiber.
[0014] Preferably, the viscose fiber has a fineness of 0.5-5 dtex and a length of 10-60 mm; further preferably, the viscose fiber has a fineness of 0.8-3 dtex and a length of 20-50 mm.
[0015] Preferably, the viscose fiber is selected from at least one of rayon fiber, lyocell fiber, tencel fiber, modal fiber and bamboo fiber.
[0016] Preferably, the thickness of the blended yarn is 5-200 Ne; further preferably, the thickness of the blended yarn is 15-60 Ne.
[0017] Preferably, in the blended yarn, the spinning method of the polyester fiber and the viscose fiber is selected from one of ring spinning, vortex spinning and siro spinning.
[0018] The second aspect of the present invention provides a knitted fabric, which is woven from the blended yarn described in the first aspect of the present invention; the mass percentage of the blended yarn is ≥50%.
[0019] Preferably, the weaving method of the blended yarn is selected from one of weft knitting and warp knitting; further preferably, the weaving method of the blended yarn is weft knitting.
[0020] Preferably, the mass percentage of the blended yarn is 55-100%.
[0021] Preferably, the knitted fabric may also include spandex and chemical fiber filaments.
[0022] The third aspect of the present invention provides a dyeing and finishing method for the knitted fabric according to the second aspect of the present invention, comprising the following steps:
[0023] The fabric grey cloth of the knitted fabric is sequentially subjected to alkali reduction treatment, viscose component polishing, polyester component dyeing, viscose component dyeing, shaping and pre-shrinking treatment to obtain the knitted fabric.
[0024] Preferably, the process conditions of the alkali weight reduction treatment include at least one of the following:
[0025] 1) The treatment temperature is 40-130°C;
[0026] 2) The treatment time is 10-120 min;
[0027] 3) adding an alkali agent during the treatment, wherein the amount of the alkali agent is 1-50 g / L;
[0028] 4) A weight reduction promoter is added in the treatment, and the amount of the weight reduction promoter is 0.5-5 g / L.
[0029] Further preferably, the process conditions of the alkali weight reduction treatment include at least one of the following:
[0030] 1) The treatment temperature is 60-100°C;
[0031] 2) The treatment time is 20-60 minutes;
[0032] 3) adding an alkali agent during the treatment, wherein the amount of the alkali agent is 5-25 g / L;
[0033] 4) A weight reduction accelerator is added in the treatment, and the amount of the weight reduction accelerator is 1-3 g / L.
[0034] Preferably, the alkaline agent is selected from at least one of alkali metal hydroxides and alkali metal carbonates; further preferably, the alkaline agent is selected from at least one of sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, sodium carbonate and potassium carbonate.
[0035] Preferably, the weight reduction accelerator includes a cationic surfactant; further preferably, the weight reduction accelerator is selected from at least one of dodecyldimethylbenzyl ammonium chloride, hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride, octadecyltrimethylammonium chloride, methyl ditallowylethyl-2-hydroxyethylammonium methyl sulfate, and N-methyl-N-tallowamidoethyl-2-tallow imidazoline methyl sulfate.
[0036] Specifically, the alkali reduction process can simultaneously achieve three functions: polyester fiber reduction, fabric grey cloth degreasing, and viscose fiber component alkali swelling.
[0037] Preferably, after the alkali weight reduction treatment, the process further comprises the steps of washing and neutralizing the fabric.
[0038] Preferably, the water washing and neutralization treatment includes hot water washing, normal temperature water washing and neutralization performed in sequence.
[0039] Preferably, the hot water washing is performed at a temperature of 60-80°C and for a time of 5-30 minutes.
[0040] Preferably, the neutralization comprises adding a neutralizer; the neutralizer is selected from at least one of glacial acetic acid and citric acid; and the amount of the neutralizer is 0.5-2 g / L.
[0041] Preferably, the process conditions for polishing the viscose component and dyeing the polyester component include at least one of the following:
[0042] 1) polishing the viscose component and dyeing the polyester component are performed in a water bath, and the pH of the water bath is 3-7;
[0043] 2) polishing the viscose component using cellulase, the amount of the cellulase used is 0.5-10g / L;
[0044] 3) The polishing temperature of the viscose component is 40-80° C. and the time is 20-120 min;
[0045] 4) The polyester component is dyed with disperse dyes, and the disperse dyes are added after the polishing of the viscose component begins.
[0046] Further preferably, the process conditions for polishing the viscose component and dyeing the polyester component include at least one of the following:
[0047] 1) polishing the viscose component and dyeing the polyester component are performed in a water bath, and the pH of the water bath is 4-5.5;
[0048] 2) polishing the viscose component using cellulase, the amount of the cellulase used is 1-5g / L;
[0049] 3) The polishing temperature of the viscose component is 45-65° C. and the time is 30-90 min;
[0050] 4) The polyester component is dyed with disperse dyes, and the disperse dyes are added after the polishing of the viscose component begins.
[0051] Preferably, the polishing of the viscose component and the dyeing of the polyester component further include the use of a leveling agent; the leveling agent is added when adjusting the pH value of the water bath.
[0052] Preferably, the specific steps of polishing the viscose component and dyeing the polyester component are: adjusting the pH of the water bath at room temperature, adding a leveling agent, adding cellulase at 55-65°C, adding disperse dyes for dyeing 20-50 minutes after the cellulase is added; after the disperse dye is dyed, soap washing at 55-65°C for 10-15 minutes, reduction washing at 75-85°C for 10-15 minutes, and washing with water at room temperature for 10-15 minutes to complete the washing treatment of disperse dyeing.
[0053] Preferably, the temperature control procedure for disperse dye dyeing is: heating to 75-85°C at a heating rate of 1.5-2.5°C / min, then heating to 125-135°C at a heating rate of 0.5-1.5°C / min, keeping warm for 25-35min, cooling to 65-75°C at a rate of 1.5-2.5°C / min and then draining.
[0054] Preferably, the process conditions for dyeing the polyester component are the same as those for conventional disperse dye dyeing.
[0055] Preferably, dyeing the viscose component includes dyeing with reactive dyes or direct dyes; further preferably, dyeing the viscose component includes dyeing with reactive dyes.
[0056] Preferably, the process conditions for dyeing the viscose component are the same as those for dyeing with conventional reactive dyes or direct dyes.
[0057] Preferably, the shaping process conditions include at least one of the following:
[0058] 1) The shaping temperature is 120-200°C;
[0059] 2) The shaping time is 45-180s;
[0060] 3) The shaping includes adding a stiffening agent, wherein the amount of the stiffening agent is 0-50 g / L;
[0061] 4) The shaping includes adding a softener, wherein the amount of the softener is 10-100 g / L;
[0062] 5) The shaping includes adding a pH adjuster, and the amount of the pH adjuster is 0-2g / L.
[0063] Further preferably, the shaping process conditions include at least one of the following:
[0064] 1) The setting temperature is 130-175°C;
[0065] 2) The shaping time is 60-120s;
[0066] 3) The shaping includes adding a stiffening agent, wherein the amount of the stiffening agent is 0-25 g / L;
[0067] 4) The shaping includes adding a softener, wherein the amount of the softener is 20-50 g / L;
[0068] 5) The shaping includes adding a pH adjuster, wherein the amount of the pH adjuster is 0.1-0.5 g / L.
[0069] Preferably, the stiffening agent is selected from at least one of polyurethane and polyacrylate.
[0070] Preferably, the softener is selected from at least one of polyethylene emulsion, polyurethane, polydimethylsiloxane and its derivatives, stearic acid and palmitic acid.
[0071] Preferably, the pH adjuster is selected from at least one of glacial acetic acid and citric acid.
[0072] Preferably, after the viscose component is dyed and before the fabric grey cloth is shaped, a dehydration treatment is also included.
[0073] Specifically, the shaping includes shaping by a shaping machine. The shaping requires hand finishing of the knitted fabric. The hand finishing uses a hand finishing agent including at least one of a stiffener, a softener, and a pH regulator. Through shaping, the specification and hand feel of the blended knitted fabric meet the requirements.
[0074] Preferably, a pH adjuster is added during the setting process to adjust the pH of the setting water bath to 4.5-7.5.
[0075] Preferably, the process conditions of the pre-shrinkage treatment include at least one of the following:
[0076] 1) The speed of the pre-shrinkage process is 10-50m / min;
[0077] 2) The steam pressure of the pre-shrinkage treatment is 0.1-0.5 MPa.
[0078] Further preferably, the process conditions of the pre-shrinkage treatment include at least one of the following:
[0079] 1) The speed of the pre-shrinkage process is 20-40 m / min;
[0080] 2) The steam pressure of the pre-shrinkage treatment is 0.1-0.3 MPa.
[0081] Preferably, when the knitted fabric contains spandex and / or chemical fiber filaments, the method further comprises the step of performing a pre-forming treatment on the fabric grey cloth of the knitted fabric before the alkali weight reduction treatment.
[0082] Preferably, the predetermined forming temperature is 180-210° C. and the time is 10-30 seconds.
[0083] Preferably, the presetting is carried out on a stenter setting machine.
[0084] Compared with the prior art, the present invention has the following beneficial effects:
[0085] 1) The blended yarn provided by the present invention comprises polyester fiber and viscose fiber, and the content ratio of the two fibers varies in a wide range; the blended yarn can be used as a raw material alone, or can be used together with spandex, chemical fiber filaments and other raw materials to weave knitted fabrics, and the total content of polyester fiber and viscose fiber in the knitted fabric is 50-100%, which overcomes the defects of the existing knitted fabrics with a single component and strict restrictions on the raw material content;
[0086] 2) In the dyeing and finishing method provided by the present invention, the alkali reduction treatment and the alkali swelling of the viscose fiber are completed simultaneously, so that the swelling of the viscose fiber is completed while the polyester fiber is weakened, which is convenient for the subsequent polishing treatment of the viscose component, thereby improving the anti-pilling performance of the two fibers; the dyeing and finishing method can be used to treat knitted fabrics of different components, and the treated fabrics have bright color, excellent washing fastness, friction fastness and anti-pilling properties, soft hand feel, and can better meet the application needs of the clothing industry. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
[0087] Figure 1 The process curves of the viscose component polishing and polyester component dyeing steps in the knitted fabric dyeing and finishing process in the embodiment;
[0088] Figure 2 The figures are the actual pictures of the knitted fabrics in Example 1(a) and Comparative Example 1(b);
[0089] Figure 3 The actual pictures of the knitted fabrics in Example 2 (a) and Comparative Example 2 (b);
[0090] Figure 4 Actual pictures of the knitted fabrics in Example 3(a) and Comparative Example 3(b). DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0091] The present invention is further described in detail below by specific examples. Unless otherwise specified, the raw materials, reagents or devices used in the examples and comparative examples can be obtained from conventional commercial sources or can be obtained by prior art methods. Unless otherwise specified, the experiments or test methods are conventional methods in the art.
[0092] Figure 1 is the process curve of the viscose component polishing and polyester component dyeing steps in the knitted fabric dyeing and finishing process in the embodiment, Figure 1It can be seen that the specific process of viscose component polishing and polyester component dyeing is as follows: add acid to adjust the pH of the water bath at room temperature, and add a dispersing and leveling agent; heat up to 60°C, add cellulase first, run for 30-45 minutes, and then add disperse dyes; the temperature control procedure for disperse dye dyeing of polyester components is: heat up to 80°C at a heating rate of 2°C / min, then heat up to 130°C at a heating rate of 1°C / min, keep warm for 30 minutes, cool down to 70°C at a rate of 2°C / min, and then drain; after the disperse dye is dyed, soap wash at 60°C for 10 minutes, reduce and wash at 80°C for 10 minutes, and wash with water at room temperature for 10 minutes to complete the washing process of disperse dyeing. The following will be combined with Figure 1 The finishing process of dyeing the knitted fabric in the embodiment is described.
[0093] Example 1
[0094] This embodiment provides a blended yarn and a knitted fabric:
[0095] The blended yarn is made of polyester fiber and viscose fiber in a mass ratio of 1:1 through ring spinning, wherein the polyester fiber is semi-dull polyethylene terephthalate fiber with a fineness of 1.4 dtex and a length of 38 mm; the viscose fiber is rayon fiber with a fineness of 1.4 dtex and a length of 38 mm; the thickness of the blended yarn is 30 English count.
[0096] The composition of the knitted fabric is 96% of the above blended yarn + 4% spandex (48% polyester + 48% viscose + 4% spandex), and it is knitted by circular knitting machine. The specification is 160cm in width and 190g / m in weight. 2 .
[0097] The dyeing and finishing steps of knitted fabrics are as follows:
[0098] S11, pre-setting: After the grey cloth is opened, it is pre-set on the stenter setting machine, the pre-setting temperature is 196℃, the time is 20s, and the width of the grey cloth is set to 165cm;
[0099] S21, alkali weight reduction treatment: add the pre-shaped grey cloth into a jet overflow dyeing machine, add 2 g / L of cationic surfactant dodecyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride and 6 g / L of sodium hydroxide, and heat-treat at 80°C for 60 minutes to complete the grey cloth degreasing, polyester weight reduction and viscose fiber swelling treatment;
[0100] S31, washing and neutralization treatment: the grey cloth after alkali weight reduction treatment is washed with hot water, washed with water at room temperature and neutralized in sequence, the hot water washing is washed with water at 80°C for 20 minutes, and 1.5g / L glacial acetic acid is used for neutralization;
[0101] S41, polishing of viscose component and dyeing of polyester component: polishing of viscose component of washed and neutralized fabric grey cloth, adding 1.5 g / L glacial acetic acid at room temperature, adjusting the pH of the water bath to 4.8, adding 2 g / L dispersing leveling agent (NICCASUNSOLT 7000Z, Nichia Chemical China Co., Ltd.), adding 3 g / L cellulase (B999, Guangzhou Hainuo Bioengineering Co., Ltd.) at 60°C, adding cellulase at 30 min after adding cellulase, adding disperse dye for dyeing, heating to 80°C at a heating rate of 2°C / min, then heating to 130°C at a heating rate of 1°C / min, keeping warm for 30 min, cooling to 70°C at a rate of 2°C / min and then draining, completing dyeing with disperse dye; and then soaping at 60°C for 10 min, reducing cleaning at 80°C for 10 min, and washing with water at room temperature for 10 min to complete the washing treatment of disperse dyeing;
[0102] S51, viscose component dyeing: after viscose polishing and polyester component dyeing are completed, the viscose component is dyed with reactive dyes;
[0103] S61, squeezing and shaping: the dyed fabric is passed through the squeezing machine to remove excess water, and the fabric surface is straightened through the shaping machine to facilitate heat setting in the shaping machine;
[0104] S71, shaping: shaping the arranged fabric sample, using 30g / L of stearic acid softener to improve the feel of the fabric surface, shaping temperature 150°C, time 75s, to obtain the shaped fabric;
[0105] S81. Preshrinkage: Use a rubber blanket preshrinkage machine for preshrinkage finishing, with a speed of 35m / min and a steam pressure of 0.1MPa. After preshrinkage, a 30S / 1 polyester-viscose blended + 50D spandex knitted plain fabric is obtained.
[0106] Example 2
[0107] This embodiment provides a blended yarn and a knitted fabric:
[0108] The blended yarn is made of polyester fiber and viscose fiber in a mass ratio of 1:1 through ring spinning, wherein the polyester fiber is full-dull polyethylene terephthalate fiber with a fineness of 1.2dtex and a length of 38mm; the viscose fiber is lyocell fiber with a fineness of 1.2dtex and a length of 38mm; the thickness of the blended yarn is 26 ne.
[0109] The knitted fabric is made of 100% of the above blended yarn (50% polyester + 50% viscose), and is knitted by circular knitting machine. The specifications are width 160cm and weight 160g / m 2 .
[0110] The dyeing and finishing steps of knitted fabrics are as follows:
[0111] S21, alkali weight reduction treatment: add the grey cloth to the jet overflow dyeing machine, add 1.5 g / L of cationic surfactant hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride and 8 g / L of sodium hydroxide, and heat-treat at 90°C for 45 minutes to complete the grey cloth degreasing, polyester weight reduction and viscose fiber swelling treatment;
[0112] S31, washing and neutralization treatment: the grey cloth after alkali weight reduction treatment is washed with hot water, washed with water at room temperature and neutralized in sequence, the hot water washing is washed with water at 80°C for 20 minutes, and 1.5g / L glacial acetic acid is used for neutralization;
[0113] S41, polishing of viscose component and dyeing of polyester component: polishing of viscose component of washed and neutralized fabric grey cloth, adding 1 g / L glacial acetic acid at room temperature to adjust pH to 5.2, then adding 1.5 g / L dispersing leveling agent (NICCASUNSOLT 7000Z, Nichia Chemical China Co., Ltd.), adding 2 g / L cellulase (B999, Guangzhou Hainuo Bioengineering Co., Ltd.) at 60°C, adding cellulase at 45 minutes after the cellulase is added, adding disperse dye for dyeing, heating to 80°C at a heating rate of 2°C / min, then heating to 130°C at a heating rate of 1°C / min, keeping warm for 30 minutes, cooling to 70°C at a rate of 2°C / min, and then draining to complete the dyeing of disperse dye; and then after soaping at 60°C for 10 minutes, reducing cleaning at 80°C for 10 minutes, and washing at room temperature for 10 minutes, the washing treatment of disperse dyeing is completed;
[0114] S51, viscose component dyeing: after viscose polishing and polyester component dyeing are completed, the viscose component is dyed with reactive dyes;
[0115] S61, squeezing and shaping: the dyed fabric is passed through the squeezing machine to remove excess water, and the fabric surface is straightened through the shaping machine to facilitate heat setting in the shaping machine;
[0116] S71, shaping: shaping the arranged fabric samples, using 25g / L amino silicone softener and 15g / L polyurethane stiffener to improve the feel of the fabric, shaping temperature 160°C, time 65s, to obtain the shaped fabric;
[0117] S81. Preshrinkage: Use a rubber blanket preshrinkage machine for preshrinkage finishing, with a speed of 30m / min and a steam pressure of 0.15MPa. After preshrinkage, 26S / 1 polyester-viscose blended knitted plain fabric is obtained.
[0118] Example 3
[0119] This embodiment provides a blended yarn and a knitted fabric:
[0120] The blended yarn is made of polyester fiber and viscose fiber in a mass ratio of 1:1.5 through ring spinning, wherein the polyester fiber is semi-dull polyethylene terephthalate fiber with a fineness of 1.2dtex and a length of 38mm; the viscose fiber is modal fiber with a fineness of 1.4dtex and a length of 38mm; the thickness of the blended yarn is 40 English count.
[0121] The composition of the knitted fabric is 56% of the above blended yarn and 44% of polyester filament (66% polyester + 34% viscose). The polyester filament is 100D / 72F semi-dull FDY filament, which is knitted by circular knitting machine. The specification is 170cm in width and 210g / m in weight. 2 .
[0122] The dyeing and finishing steps of knitted fabrics are as follows:
[0123] S11, pre-setting: After the grey cloth is opened, it is pre-set on the stenter setting machine, the pre-setting temperature is 190℃, the time is 25s, and the width of the grey cloth is set to 170cm;
[0124] S21, alkali weight reduction treatment: add the pre-shaped grey cloth into the jet overflow dyeing machine, add 2g / L of cationic surfactant dodecyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride and 5g / L of sodium hydroxide, and heat-treat at 85°C for 40min to complete the grey cloth degreasing, polyester weight reduction and viscose fiber swelling treatment;
[0125] S31, washing and neutralization treatment: the grey cloth after alkali weight reduction treatment is washed with hot water, washed with water at room temperature and neutralized in sequence, the hot water washing is washed with water at 80°C for 20 minutes, and 1.5g / L glacial acetic acid is used for neutralization;
[0126] S41, polishing of viscose component and dyeing of polyester component: polishing of viscose component of washed and neutralized fabric grey cloth, adding 1.2 g / L glacial acetic acid at room temperature, adjusting the water bath pH to 5.0, adding 1.5 g / L dispersing leveling agent (NICCASUNSOLT 7000Z, Nichia Chemical China Co., Ltd.), adding 4 g / L cellulase (B999, Guangzhou Hainuo Bioengineering Co., Ltd.) at 60°C, adding cellulase at 40 min after adding cellulase, adding disperse dye for dyeing, heating to 80°C at a heating rate of 2°C / min, then heating to 130°C at a heating rate of 1°C / min, keeping warm for 30 min, cooling to 70°C at a rate of 2°C / min and then draining, completing dyeing with disperse dye; and then soaping at 60°C for 10 min, reducing cleaning at 80°C for 10 min, and washing with water at room temperature for 10 min to complete the washing treatment of disperse dyeing;
[0127] S51, viscose component dyeing: after viscose polishing and polyester component dyeing are completed, the viscose component is dyed with reactive dyes;
[0128] S61, squeezing and shaping: the dyed fabric is passed through the squeezing machine to remove excess water, and the fabric surface is straightened through the shaping machine to facilitate heat setting in the shaping machine;
[0129] S71, shaping: shaping the arranged fabric samples, using 40g / L modified amino silicone softener and 0.3g / L glacial acetic acid, making the pH of the shaping water bath 6.0 to improve the feel of the fabric, shaping temperature 170℃, time 45s, to obtain the shaped fabric;
[0130] S81. Preshrinkage: Use a rubber blanket preshrinkage machine for preshrinkage finishing, with a speed of 25m / min and a steam pressure of 0.15MPa. After the preshrinkage, a 40S / 1 polyester modal blended yarn and polyester filament interwoven knitted double-sided fabric is obtained.
[0131] Comparative Example 1
[0132] This comparative example provides a blended yarn and a knitted fabric:
[0133] The blended yarn is made of polyester fiber and viscose fiber in a mass ratio of 1:1 through ring spinning, wherein the polyester fiber is semi-dull polyethylene terephthalate fiber with a fineness of 1.4 dtex and a length of 38 mm; the viscose fiber is rayon fiber with a fineness of 1.4 dtex and a length of 38 mm; the thickness of the blended yarn is 30 English count.
[0134] The composition of the knitted fabric is 96% of the above blended yarn + 4% spandex (48% polyester + 48% viscose + 4% spandex), and it is knitted by circular knitting machine. The specification is 160cm in width and 190g / m in weight. 2 .
[0135] The dyeing and finishing steps of knitted fabrics are as follows:
[0136] S11, pre-setting: After the grey cloth is opened, it is pre-set on the stenter setting machine, the pre-setting temperature is 196℃, the time is 20s, and the width of the grey cloth is set to 165cm;
[0137] S21, grey cloth degreasing treatment: add the pre-shaped grey cloth into the jet overflow dyeing machine, add 2g / L non-ionic degreasing agent (AEO-9, Guangzhou Junxin Chemical Co., Ltd.), 2g / L sodium carbonate, and heat-treat at 80°C for 30min to complete the grey cloth degreasing treatment;
[0138] S31, washing and neutralization treatment: the grey cloth after alkali weight reduction treatment is washed with hot water, washed with water at room temperature and neutralized in sequence, the hot water washing is washed with water at 80°C for 20 minutes, and 1.5g / L glacial acetic acid is used for neutralization;
[0139] S41, polyester component dyeing: the washed and neutralized fabric is dyed with polyester component, 1.5 g / L of glacial acetic acid is first added at room temperature, the pH of the water bath is adjusted to 4.8, 2 g / L of dispersing leveling agent (NICCA SUNSOLT 7000Z, Nichia Chemical China Co., Ltd.) is added, disperse dye is added for dyeing, the temperature is raised to 80°C at a heating rate of 2°C / min, and then the temperature is raised to 130°C at a heating rate of 1°C / min, and the temperature is kept at 30 minutes, and the temperature is lowered to 70°C at a rate of 2°C / min, and then the liquid is discharged to complete the dyeing of disperse dye; after soap washing at 60°C for 10 minutes, reduction cleaning at 80°C for 10 minutes, and washing at room temperature for 10 minutes, the washing water treatment of disperse dyeing is completed;
[0140] S51, viscose component dyeing: after viscose polishing and polyester component dyeing are completed, the viscose component is dyed with reactive dyes;
[0141] S61, squeezing and shaping: the dyed fabric is passed through the squeezing machine to remove excess water, and the fabric surface is straightened through the shaping machine to facilitate heat setting in the shaping machine;
[0142] S71, shaping: shaping the arranged fabric sample, using 30g / L of stearic acid softener to improve the feel of the fabric surface, shaping temperature 150°C, time 75s, to obtain the shaped fabric;
[0143] S81. Preshrinkage: Use a rubber blanket preshrinkage machine for preshrinkage finishing, with a speed of 35m / min and a steam pressure of 0.1MPa. After preshrinkage, 30S / 1 ordinary polyester viscose blended yarn + 50D spandex knitted plain fabric is obtained.
[0144] Comparative Example 2
[0145] This comparative example provides a blended yarn and a knitted fabric:
[0146] The blended yarn is made of polyester fiber and viscose fiber in a mass ratio of 1:1 through ring spinning, wherein the polyester fiber is full-dull polyethylene terephthalate fiber with a fineness of 1.2dtex and a length of 38mm; the viscose fiber is lyocell fiber with a fineness of 1.2dtex and a length of 38mm; the thickness of the blended yarn is 26 ne.
[0147] The knitted fabric is made of 100% of the above blended yarn (50% polyester + 50% viscose), and is knitted by circular knitting machine. The specifications are width 160cm and weight 160g / m 2 .
[0148] The dyeing and finishing steps of knitted fabrics are as follows:
[0149] S21, grey cloth degreasing treatment: add the grey cloth into the jet overflow dyeing machine, add 1.5 g / L nonionic degreasing agent (AEO-9, Guangzhou Junxin Chemical Co., Ltd.), 1.5 g / L sodium carbonate, and heat-treat at 85° C. for 30 min to complete the grey cloth degreasing treatment;
[0150] S31, washing and neutralization treatment: the grey cloth after alkali weight reduction treatment is washed with hot water, washed with water at room temperature and neutralized in sequence, the hot water washing is washed with water at 80°C for 20 minutes, and 1.5g / L glacial acetic acid is used for neutralization;
[0151] S41, polyester component dyeing: the washed and neutralized fabric grey cloth is dyed with polyester component, 1g / L glacial acetic acid is first added at room temperature to adjust the pH to 5.2, 2g / L dispersing leveling agent (NICCA SUNSOLT 7000Z, Nichia Chemical China Co., Ltd.) is added, disperse dye is added for dyeing, the temperature is raised to 80°C at a heating rate of 2°C / min, then raised to 130°C at a heating rate of 1°C / min, kept warm for 30min, cooled to 70°C at a rate of 2°C / min, and then the liquid is drained to complete the dyeing of disperse dye; after soap washing at 60°C for 10min, reduction cleaning at 80°C for 10min, and washing with water at room temperature for 10min, the washing treatment of disperse dyeing is completed;
[0152] S51, viscose component dyeing: after viscose polishing and polyester component dyeing are completed, the viscose component is dyed with reactive dyes;
[0153] S61, squeezing and shaping: the dyed fabric is passed through the squeezing machine to remove excess water, and the fabric surface is straightened through the shaping machine to facilitate heat setting in the shaping machine;
[0154] S71, shaping: shaping the arranged fabric samples, using 25g / L amino silicone softener and 15g / L polyurethane stiffener to improve the feel of the fabric, shaping temperature 160°C, time 65s, to obtain the shaped fabric;
[0155] S81. Preshrinkage: Use a rubber blanket preshrinkage machine for preshrinkage finishing, with a speed of 30m / min and a steam pressure of 0.15MPa. After preshrinkage, a 26S / 1 polyester lyocell blended yarn knitted plain fabric is obtained.
[0156] Comparative Example 3
[0157] This comparative example provides a blended yarn and a knitted fabric:
[0158] The blended yarn is made of polyester fiber and viscose fiber in a mass ratio of 1:1.5 through ring spinning, wherein the polyester fiber is semi-dull polyethylene terephthalate fiber with a fineness of 1.2dtex and a length of 38mm; the viscose fiber is modal fiber with a fineness of 1.4dtex and a length of 38mm; the thickness of the blended yarn is 40 English count.
[0159] The composition of the knitted fabric is 56% of the above blended yarn and 44% of polyester filament (66% polyester + 34% viscose). The polyester filament is 100D / 72F semi-dull FDY filament, which is knitted by circular knitting machine. The specification is 170cm in width and 210g / m in weight. 2 .
[0160] The dyeing and finishing steps of knitted fabrics are as follows:
[0161] S11, pre-setting: After the grey cloth is opened, it is pre-set on the stenter setting machine, the pre-setting temperature is 190℃, the time is 25s, and the width of the grey cloth is set to 170cm;
[0162] S21, grey cloth degreasing treatment: add the grey cloth into the jet overflow dyeing machine, add 3g / L nonionic degreasing agent (AEO-9, Guangzhou Junxin Chemical Co., Ltd.), 1.5g / L sodium carbonate, and heat-treat at 85°C for 30min to complete the grey cloth degreasing treatment;
[0163] S31, washing and neutralization treatment: the grey cloth after alkali weight reduction treatment is washed with hot water, washed with water at room temperature and neutralized in sequence, the hot water washing is washed with water at 80°C for 20 minutes, and 1.5g / L glacial acetic acid is used for neutralization;
[0164] S41, polyester component dyeing: the washed and neutralized fabric grey cloth is dyed with polyester component, 2 g / L of glacial acetic acid is first added at room temperature, the pH of the water bath is adjusted to 5.0, 2 g / L of dispersing leveling agent (NICCA SUNSOLT 7000Z, Nichia Chemical China Co., Ltd.) is added, disperse dye is added for dyeing, the temperature is raised to 80°C at a heating rate of 2°C / min, and then the temperature is raised to 130°C at a heating rate of 1°C / min, and the temperature is kept at 30 minutes, and the temperature is lowered to 70°C at a rate of 2°C / min, and then the liquid is discharged to complete the dyeing of disperse dye; after soap washing at 60°C for 10 minutes, reduction cleaning at 80°C for 10 minutes, and washing with water at room temperature for 10 minutes, the washing treatment of disperse dyeing is completed;
[0165] S51, viscose component dyeing: after viscose polishing and polyester component dyeing are completed, the viscose component is dyed with reactive dyes;
[0166] S61, squeezing and shaping: the dyed fabric is passed through the squeezing machine to remove excess water, and the fabric surface is straightened through the shaping machine to facilitate heat setting in the shaping machine;
[0167] S71, shaping: shaping the arranged fabric samples, using 40g / L modified amino silicone softener and 0.3g / L glacial acetic acid, making the pH of the shaping water bath 6.0 to improve the feel of the fabric, shaping temperature 170℃, time 45s, to obtain the shaped fabric;
[0168] S81. Preshrinkage: Use a rubber blanket preshrinkage machine for preshrinkage finishing, with a speed of 25m / min and a steam pressure of 0.15MPa. After the preshrinkage, a 40S / 1 polyester modal blended yarn and polyester filament interwoven knitted double-sided fabric is obtained.
[0169] Performance Testing
[0170] 1. Observe the appearance of the knitted fabrics in Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-3.
[0171] 2. Test the color fastness to washing, color fastness to rubbing, anti-pilling performance and bursting strength of the knitted fabrics in Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-3. Among them, the color fastness to washing is carried out with reference to ISO 105C06 "Test for color fastness to washing"; the color fastness to rubbing of the fabric is carried out with reference to ISO 105X12:2016 "Textiles. Color fastness test"; the water resistance and anti-pilling performance are carried out with reference to ASTM D3512 "Standard test method for anti-pilling and other related surface changes of textiles"; the bursting strength of the fabric samples before and after treatment is carried out with reference to ISO 13938-2:2019 "Textiles-Fabric bursting performance test"; the test results are shown in Table 1.
[0172] Table 1 Performance test results of knitted fabrics in Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-3
[0173]
[0174] Figure 2 The figures are the actual pictures of the knitted fabrics in Example 1(a) and Comparative Example 1(b); Figure 3 The actual pictures of the knitted fabrics in Example 2 (a) and Comparative Example 2 (b); Figure 4 The figures are the actual pictures of the knitted fabrics in Example 3 (a) and Comparative Example 3 (b). Figure 2-4 It can be seen that the knitted fabric dyeing and finishing method provided by the present invention is adopted in Examples 1-3, and the obtained 30S / 1 polyester-viscose blended + 50D spandex knitted plain fabric, 26S / 1 polyester-viscose blended knitted plain fabric, and 40S / 1 polyester modal blended yarn and polyester filament interwoven knitted double-sided fabric are evenly dyed, the fabrics are soft, and the color is brighter and more vivid than the fabrics with the same composition in Comparative Examples 1-3.
[0175] Table 1 shows the performance test results of the knitted fabrics in Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-3. It can be seen from Table 1 that the knitted fabric dyeing and finishing method provided by the present invention is adopted in Examples 1-3, and the obtained knitted fabrics containing polyester-viscose blended yarns are compared with the fabrics of the same composition obtained by conventional processes in the comparative examples. The fastness to washing is equivalent, the fastness to friction is improved, the anti-pilling property is improved, and the bursting strength is slightly reduced. However, due to the good strength of polyester fiber, the strength of the treated fabric can still meet the application requirements of existing clothing.
[0176] It can be seen that in the polyester-viscose blended yarn provided by the present invention, the ratio of polyester fiber to viscose fiber has a large variable range, the polyester-viscose blended yarn can be woven alone to form a knitted fabric, or woven together with spandex, chemical fiber filaments, etc. to form a knitted fabric, and the content range of the polyester-viscose blended yarn in the knitted fabric is wide; after the knitted fabric is treated by the dyeing and finishing method provided by the present invention, the color is bright, and it has excellent water washing fastness, friction fastness and pilling resistance. Compared with the existing knitted fabrics, the fabric components are diverse and the anti-pilling performance is improved, which can better meet the application needs of the clothing industry.
Claims
1. A blended yarn, characterized in that: The blended yarn is formed by blending polyester fiber and viscose fiber; the mass ratio of the polyester fiber to the viscose fiber is 1:(0.1-10).
2. The blended yarn according to claim 1, characterized in that: The polyester fiber has a fineness of 0.5-10 dtex and a length of 10-80 mm; Preferably, the polyester fiber is selected from at least one of polyethylene terephthalate fiber, polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber, polybutylene terephthalate fiber, recycled polyester fiber, cationic dyeable modified polyester, and iterated polyester.
3. The blended yarn according to claim 1, characterized in that: The viscose fiber has a fineness of 0.5-5 dtex and a length of 10-60 mm; Preferably, the viscose fiber is selected from at least one of rayon fiber, lyocell fiber, tencel fiber, modal fiber and bamboo fiber.
4. The blended yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that: The thickness of the blended yarn is 5-200 Ne; and / or, in the blended yarn, the spinning method of the polyester fiber and the viscose fiber is selected from one of ring spinning, vortex spinning and siro spinning.
5. A knitted fabric, characterized in that: It is formed by weaving the blended yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 4; The mass percentage of the blended yarn is ≥50%.
6. The dyeing and finishing method of knitted fabric according to claim 5, characterized in that: The following steps are involved: The fabric grey cloth of the knitted fabric is sequentially subjected to alkali reduction treatment, viscose component polishing, polyester component dyeing, viscose component dyeing, shaping and pre-shrinking treatment to obtain the knitted fabric.
7. The dyeing and finishing method according to claim 6, characterized in that: The process conditions of the alkali reduction treatment include at least one of the following: 1) The treatment temperature is 40-130°C; 2) The treatment time is 10-120 min; 3) adding an alkali agent during the treatment, wherein the amount of the alkali agent is 1-50 g / L; 4) A weight reduction promoter is added in the treatment, and the amount of the weight reduction promoter is 0.5-5 g / L.
8. The dyeing and finishing method according to claim 6, characterized in that: The process conditions for polishing the viscose component and dyeing the polyester component include at least one of the following: 1) polishing the viscose component and dyeing the polyester component are performed in a water bath, and the pH of the water bath is 3-7; 2) polishing the viscose component using cellulase, the amount of the cellulase used is 0.5-10g / L; 3) The polishing temperature of the viscose component is 40-80° C. and the time is 20-120 min; 4) The polyester component is dyed with disperse dyes, and the disperse dyes are added after the polishing of the viscose component begins.
9. The dyeing and finishing method according to claim 6, characterized in that: The process conditions for the shaping include at least one of the following: 1) The shaping temperature is 120-200°C; 2) The shaping time is 45-180s; 3) The shaping includes adding a stiffening agent, wherein the amount of the stiffening agent is 0-50 g / L; 4) The shaping includes adding a softener, wherein the amount of the softener is 10-100 g / L; 5) The shaping includes adding a pH adjuster, and the amount of the pH adjuster is 0-2g / L.
10. The dyeing and finishing method according to claim 6, characterized in that: The process conditions of the pre-shrinkage treatment include at least one of the following: 1) The speed of the pre-shrinkage process is 10-50m / min; 2) The steam pressure of the pre-shrinkage treatment is 0.1-0.5 MPa.
Citation Information
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