Cosmetic emulsions with reduced white foaming

Abstract

The invention belongs to the field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to a no-wash cosmetic emulsion which comprises the following components in percentage by weight: a) at least one sucrose ester, b) less than 0.1% or 0% of silicone oil and an organosilicon compound, and c) less than 0.1% or 0% of alkane and mineral oil, and is characterized in that the emulsion does not contain an acrylic polymer. The emulsion shows a surprising effect of remarkably reducing foam appearance when being smeared on human skin.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention belongs to the field of cosmetics and relates to a cosmetic emulsion showing a reduced level of white appearance after application. Background Art

[0002] Cosmetics are not only used to make people look beautiful, but their effects also have a decisive contribution to enhancing self-esteem and people's physical and mental health. Therefore, a wide variety of cosmetics are used for daily cleaning and care of people's skin.

[0003] When applying cosmetic products containing an oily and aqueous phase, such as body lotions and creams, it's common to observe the composition forming small bubbles on the skin. These bubbles can be described as foam with a white appearance. Typically, this foam disappears within a few minutes of application.

[0004] Most lotions and creams contain defoaming agents, which shorten the time it takes for bubbles and the accompanying white foam to disappear. Without defoaming agents, the white foam will take longer to disappear, and the product will increase foaming during spreading and massaging onto the skin. As a result, the skincare product will appear to consumers to be increasingly white during application, even though it will eventually disappear. As a result, consumers may perceive the product as difficult to spread and absorb. Defoaming agents help bubbles burst and disappear faster, making the product appear easier to spread and absorb faster.

[0005] Silicone oils are the most commonly used defoaming agents. Polydimethylsiloxane, for example, has low surface tension and is not easily dissolved in water or other oily substances. Therefore, it easily migrates to and spreads over the surface of bubbles. This process makes the bubble surface uneven, causing them to coalesce and collapse more quickly.

[0006] Typical silicone oil-based defoaming compositions are described in US5531929 A. EP 0339958 A3 describes encapsulated silicone defoaming compositions.

[0007] However, the use of silicone oils has become controversial in recent years for various reasons. Consequently, consumers generally prefer products that do not require silicone oils. Nevertheless, the appearance of foam during application should be kept to a minimum. This means reducing the amount of foam and shortening the time it takes for the white foam to disappear during application.

[0008] Another key ingredient that consumers have fallen out of favor with is acrylic acid polymers. Acrylic acid polymers are polymers derived from the homopolymerization or copolymerization of acrylic acid and its esters. Because the environmental degradation of acrylic acid polymers is unclear, it would be beneficial for everyone if formulations no longer needed to contain them. Therefore, there is a widespread need for alternative formulations that do not require the use of these polymers.

[0009] Furthermore, it would be welcome today if cosmetic emulsions no longer contained pure alkane compounds, such as mineral oil or lower alkanes (e.g., tridecane). This would require fewer or even no fossil-derived ingredients, thus reducing the environmental impact of the emulsions sold to consumers.

[0010] Emulsions containing active ingredients can be formulated in a variety of ways. On the one hand, some formulations are designed to be applied to wet skin and then washed off with water. Typical formulations in this field of technology are shower gels and shampoos. They contain, among other things, foaming surfactants and, in some cases, solid particles such as abrasive particles to achieve thorough removal of dirt or dead skin cells. The abrasive particles have a diameter ranging from 0.2 to 1.5 mm. 2 The average particle size D 50 The average maximum particle size can be determined by dynamic light scattering. The foaming problem described above is not a problem for these formulations because they do not remain on the skin to be absorbed.

[0011] On the other hand, some formulations are designed to be applied to non-wet skin and absorbed into the skin. Because these leave-on lotions are spread onto dry skin and remain on the skin for extended periods, the aforementioned foaming issue is particularly pronounced. Specifically, it is important that the initial foaming disappears quickly and / or that the overall appearance of foam is reduced when applying a leave-on product.

[0012] In addition, in one aspect, it is also desired to provide a leave-on formulation that can maintain phase separation stability for a long time when the formulation contains a large amount of salicylic acid. Here, the above-mentioned limitations on available and acceptable materials also restrict the stability of the formulation.

[0013] The present invention aims to solve this problem without the use of the above-mentioned materials which are avoided in modern skin care formulations. Summary of the Invention

[0014] The first object of the present invention is a disposable cosmetic emulsion comprising, by total weight of the emulsion:

[0015] a. at least one sucrose ester,

[0016] b. Less than 0.1% or 0% silicone oil and organosilicon compounds, and

[0017] c. Less than 0.1% or 0% of alkanes and mineral oils,

[0018] The invention is characterized in that the emulsion does not contain acrylic polymer.

[0019] Surprisingly, the emulsions according to the invention allow the occurrence of foaming after application to be reduced.

[0020] Another subject of the present invention is the use of at least one sucrose ester in a cosmetic emulsion for reducing the foaming of said emulsion when applied to human skin.

[0021] A particular object of the present invention is the use of at least one sucrose ester in a leave-on cosmetic emulsion, comprising, by weight of the total emulsion,

[0022] a. Less than 0.1% or 0% silicone oil and organosilicon compounds, and

[0023] b. Less than 0.1% or 0% of alkanes and mineral oils,

[0024] The invention is characterized in that the emulsion does not contain acrylic polymer.

[0025] By definition, a leave-on lotion is a product that is not rinsed off the skin with water after application. Leave-on lotions are left on the skin to be fully absorbed.

[0026] All weight percentages (wt%) given below, unless otherwise specified, refer to percentages relative to the total weight of the cosmetic emulsion. If the ratios of certain components are disclosed in the following description, these ratios refer to the weight ratios of the components unless otherwise specified.

[0027] Unless otherwise stated, all tests and measurements are carried out under “normal conditions”. The term “normal conditions” means 20°C, 1013 hPa and 50% relative humidity.

[0028] In the following description, the terms "according to the invention", "preferred according to the invention" and the like always refer to the uses according to the invention, the compositions according to the invention and the methods according to the invention.

[0029] For the purposes of the present disclosure, the term “free of” means that the proportion of the corresponding substance is below 0.01% by weight. This ensures that inclusions or impurities of these substances are not considered as “free of” for the purposes of the present invention.

[0030] The term "skin" refers to human skin.

[0031] Organosilicon compounds are understood to be substances which contain dimethylsiloxane units (SiO(CH 3 ) 2 ) in their chemical structure.

[0032] The term "alkane" also includes polyalkanes, in particular hydrogenated polyisobutene. Therefore, the emulsions according to the invention preferably do not contain hydrogenated polyisobutene.

[0033] Emulsifiers are understood to mean all substances listed under the term “emulsifying agents” in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, 13th edition (2010) (ISBN 1-882621-47-6). Surfactants are understood to mean all substances listed under the term “surfactant” in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, 13th edition (2010) (ISBN 1-882621-47-6).

[0034] According to the present invention, it is preferred that the sucrose ester is an ester formed by sucrose and at least one fatty acid containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms. It is particularly preferred that the sucrose ester is an ester formed by sucrose and at least one fatty acid containing 14 to 20 carbon atoms. It is particularly preferred that the sucrose ester is an ester formed by sucrose and at least one fatty acid containing 16 to 18 carbon atoms. Most preferably, the sucrose ester is an ester formed by sucrose and at least one fatty acid containing 18 carbon atoms.

[0035] In one aspect of the present invention, it is preferred that the sucrose ester is selected from sucrose polystearate, sucrose distearate and / or sucrose stearate. In one aspect of the present invention, it is preferred that the emulsion contains sucrose polystearate. In one aspect of the present invention, it is preferred that the emulsion contains sucrose distearate. In one aspect of the present invention, it is preferred that the emulsion contains sucrose stearate.

[0036] According to the present invention, it is preferred that the total amount of sucrose esters is from 0.01 wt% to 8.0 wt%, more preferably from 0.2 wt% to 7.0 wt%, more preferably from 0.4 wt% to 6.5 wt%, preferably from 0.7 wt% to 5.7 wt%, and most preferably from 0.9 wt% to 5.2 wt%, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0037] It is further preferred that, if the emulsion comprises a sucrose ester, the sucrose ester is an ester of sucrose and at least one fatty acid containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and its content is from 0.01 wt% to 8.0 wt%, more preferably from 0.2 wt% to 7.0 wt%, more preferably from 0.4 wt% to 6.5 wt%, more preferably from 0.7 wt% to 5.7 wt%, and most preferably from 0.9 wt% to 5.2 wt%, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0038] It is further preferred that, if the emulsion comprises a sucrose ester, the sucrose ester is an ester of sucrose and at least one fatty acid containing 14 to 20 carbon atoms, and its content is from 0.01 wt% to 8.0 wt%, more preferably from 0.2 wt% to 7.0 wt%, more preferably from 0.4 wt% to 6.5 wt%, more preferably from 0.7 wt% to 5.7 wt%, and most preferably from 0.9 wt% to 5.2 wt%, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0039] It is further preferred that, if the emulsion comprises a sucrose ester, the sucrose ester is an ester of sucrose and at least one fatty acid containing 16 to 18 carbon atoms, and its content is from 0.01 wt% to 8.0 wt%, more preferably from 0.2 wt% to 7.0 wt%, more preferably from 0.4 wt% to 6.5 wt%, more preferably from 0.7 wt% to 5.7 wt%, and most preferably from 0.9 wt% to 5.2 wt%, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0040] It is further preferred that the emulsion comprises a sucrose ester, which is an ester formed by sucrose and at least one fatty acid containing 18 carbon atoms, in an amount of 0.01 wt% to 8.0 wt%, more preferably 0.2 wt% to 7.0 wt%, more preferably 0.4 wt% to 6.5 wt%, more preferably 0.7 wt% to 5.7 wt%, and most preferably 0.9 wt% to 5.2 wt%, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0041] It is further preferred that if the emulsion comprises a sucrose ester selected from sucrose polystearate, sucrose distearate and / or sucrose stearate, its content is from 0.01 wt.% to 8.0 wt.%, more preferably from 0.2 wt.% to 7.0 wt.%, more preferably from 0.4 wt.% to 6.5 wt.%, more preferably from 0.7 wt.% to 5.7 wt.%, and most preferably from 0.9 wt.% to 5.2 wt.%, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0042] It is further preferred that the emulsion comprises 0.01 wt% to 8.0 wt%, more preferably 0.2 wt% to 7.0 wt%, more preferably 0.4 wt% to 6.5 wt%, more preferably 0.7 wt% to 5.7 wt%, and most preferably 0.9 wt% to 5.2 wt% of sucrose polystearate based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0043] It is further preferred that the emulsion comprises 0.01 wt% to 8.0 wt%, more preferably 0.2 wt% to 7.0 wt%, more preferably 0.4 wt% to 6.5 wt%, more preferably 0.7 wt% to 5.7 wt%, and most preferably 0.9 wt% to 5.2 wt% of sucrose distearate based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0044] It is further preferred that the emulsion comprises 0.01 wt% to 8.0 wt%, more preferably 0.2 wt% to 7.0 wt%, more preferably 0.4 wt% to 6.5 wt%, more preferably 0.7 wt% to 5.7 wt%, and most preferably 0.9 wt% to 5.2 wt% of sucrose stearate based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0045] In a particularly preferred embodiment, it is preferred that the emulsion contain a high content of sucrose ester. The high content of sucrose ester is particularly in the range of 2.5% to 8% by weight, more preferably in the range of 3.5% to 7% by weight, and most preferably in the range of 4.5% to 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In this embodiment, it is particularly preferred that the sucrose ester is an ester formed by sucrose and at least one fatty acid containing 16 to 18 carbon atoms. More preferred are sucrose polystearate, sucrose distearate and / or sucrose stearate. Most preferred in this embodiment is the inclusion of sucrose distearate and / or sucrose stearate. Therefore, it is preferred that the emulsion contain a total amount of sucrose distearate and / or sucrose stearate in the range of 2.5% to 8% by weight, more preferably in the range of 3.5% to 7% by weight, and most preferably in the range of 4.5% to 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion. Compositions according to this embodiment show a surprisingly significant reduction in the appearance of foam when the product is applied to human skin.

[0046] It has also been surprisingly found that the total amount of foam that occurs can be further reduced by adding at least one anionic emulsifier to the emulsion. In this way, the amount of foam that occurs during spreading and the reduction of foam can be optimized.

[0047] According to the present invention, the emulsion preferably comprises at least one anionic emulsifier. Preferred emulsions are characterized in that they contain sodium stearoyl glutamate and / or sodium cetearyl sulfate as anionic emulsifiers.

[0048] If sodium stearoyl glutamate is included, the total amount of sodium stearoyl glutamate is preferably in the range of 0.05 wt% to 1.2 wt%, more preferably in the range of 0.1 wt% to 0.8 wt%, and most preferably in the range of 0.15 wt% to 0.4 wt%, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0049] If included, the total amount of sodium cetearyl sulfate is preferably in the range of 0.05 wt% to 1.2 wt%, more preferably in the range of 0.1 wt% to 0.8 wt%, and most preferably in the range of 0.15 wt% to 0.4 wt%, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0050] According to the present invention, it is preferred that the emulsion is an oil-in-water emulsion.

[0051] Furthermore, it was surprisingly noted that the formulations of the present invention were able to stabilize high levels of salicylic acid. Therefore, it is preferred that the emulsion contain salicylic acid. Salicylic acid is an active ingredient included in formulations for use on human skin suffering from acne. If salicylic acid is included, the total amount of salicylic acid is preferably in the range of 0.1% to 4.2% by weight, more preferably in the range of 0.3% to 2.5% by weight, even more preferably in the range of 0.4% to 2.2% by weight, and most preferably in the range of 0.8% to 1.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0052] Furthermore, it is possible to provide formulations containing high levels of lactic acid. Therefore, the emulsion preferably contains lactic acid. Lactic acid is also an active ingredient included in formulations for use on human skin suffering from acne. If lactic acid is included, the total amount of lactic acid is preferably in the range of 0.1% to 4.2% by weight, more preferably in the range of 0.5% to 3.5% by weight, even more preferably in the range of 1.2% to 2.9% by weight, and most preferably in the range of 1.8% to 2.6% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0053] Since the emulsion of the present invention is intended to be used as a leave-on preparation, it is reasonable that the preparation should not contain large particles that remain on the skin after the preparation is absorbed. Therefore, preferably, the emulsion of the present invention comprises an average particle size D 50 Particles with a diameter of 0.2 mm to 1.5 mm have a content of less than 0.1% by weight or 0% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion. Accordingly, such particles are preferably not contained. The above average particle size can be determined, for example, by dynamic light scattering (DLS).

[0054] The emulsion of the present invention preferably comprises a polymer system suitable for thickening the emulsion, wherein the polymer system is different from the polymer systems excluded. Particularly suitable are polysaccharide polymer thickeners. Polysaccharide polymer thickeners are those rheology modifiers based on a polysaccharide structure, or in other words, are rheology modifiers based on such a structure.

[0055] According to the present invention, it is preferred that the emulsion contains one or more polysaccharide polymer thickeners in a total amount of 0.2 wt % to 1.8 wt %, more preferably 0.3 wt % to 1.5 wt %, and most preferably 0.5 wt % to 1.4 wt %, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0056] Preferred polysaccharide polymer thickeners are xanthan gum, sclerotium gum, carob (ceratonia siliqua) gum, succinoglycan and hydroxypropyl starch phosphate.

[0057] A preferred rheology modifier that the emulsion of the present invention may include is xanthan gum. If the emulsion includes xanthan gum, the total amount of xanthan gum is preferably 0.1 wt% to 1.5 wt%, more preferably 0.2 wt% to 1.0 wt%, and most preferably 0.3 wt% to 0.7 wt%, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0058] A preferred rheology modifier that may be included in the emulsion of the present invention is sclerotium gum. If the emulsion contains sclerotium gum, the total amount of sclerotium gum is preferably 0.05 wt% to 0.5 wt%, more preferably 0.1 wt% to 0.4 wt%, and most preferably 0.15 wt% to 0.3 wt%, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0059] A preferred rheology modifier that may be included in the emulsion of the present invention is hydroxypropyl starch phosphate. If the emulsion includes hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, the total amount of hydroxypropyl starch phosphate is preferably 0.1 wt% to 1.5 wt%, more preferably 0.2 wt% to 1.0 wt%, and most preferably 0.3 wt% to 0.8 wt%, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0060] The most preferred is a combination of xanthan gum and hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, wherein further preferred is a weight ratio of xanthan gum to hydroxypropyl starch phosphate of 10:1 to 1:10, more preferably 2:1 to 1:8, most preferably 1:1 to 1:6.

[0061] According to the present invention, the emulsion preferably comprises at least one fatty acid triglyceride represented by the following formula (I):

[0062]

[0063] where R 1 、R 2 and R 3 independently represents a saturated and / or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alkyl group containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms.

[0064] According to the present invention, preferably, the total amount of the fatty acid triglycerides according to the present invention is 0.5 wt % to 8.0 wt %, more preferably 1.0 wt % to 6.5 wt %, further preferably 2.1 wt % to 6 wt %, and most preferably 3.0 wt % to 5.0 wt % or 3.2 wt % to 5.0 wt %, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0065] Preferably, the fatty acid triglyceride is selected from coconut (Cocos Nucifera) oil (triglyceride (fractionated coconut oil)), Astrocaryum Murumuru seed butter (Astrocaryum triglyceride), C10-18 triglyceride, C10-40 isoalkyl acid triglyceride, C12-18 acid triglyceride, C18-36 acid triglyceride, C8-12 acid triglyceride, caprylic / capric / myristic / stearic acid triglyceride, caprylic / capric triglyceride, capric / lauric / myristic / oleic acid triglyceride, caprylic / capric / linoleic acid triglyceride, caprylic / capric / stearic acid triglyceride, castor oil maleate (Ceraphyl Esters of RMT (ricinoleic monomaleic triglyceride), hydrogenated C12-18 triglycerides, lauric / palmitic / oleic triglycerides, erucic / palmitic triglycerides, oleic / linoleic triglycerides, oleic / palmitic / lauric / myristic / linoleic triglycerides, ricinoleic / caproic / caprylic / capric triglycerides, caprylic / capric / succinic triglycerides and / or jojoba oil / caprylic / capric triglycerides.

[0066] Particularly preferred is caprylic / capric triglyceride. Therefore, it is particularly preferred that the total amount of caprylic / capric triglyceride is from 0.5% to 8.0% by weight, more preferably from 1.0% to 6.5% by weight, more preferably from 2.1% to 6% by weight, and most preferably from 3.2% to 5.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0067] The fatty acid triglycerides may also be part of a natural oil. Preferred natural oils that may be included are: coconut oil, (sweet) almond oil, walnut oil, peach kernel oil, apricot kernel oil, avocado oil, tea tree oil, soybean oil, soybean oil, sesame oil, sunflower seed oil, camellia oil, evening primrose oil, rice bran oil, palm kernel oil, mango seed oil, cuckoo campion oil, thistle oil, macadamia nut oil, grape seed oil, amaranth seed oil, argan oil, bamboo oil, olive oil, wheat germ oil, pumpkin seed oil, mallow oil, hazelnut oil, safflower oil, rapeseed oil, camellia oil, jojoba oil, rambutan oil, cocoa butter, and shea butter.

[0068] According to the invention, it is further preferred that the emulsion contains less than 0.1% by weight or 0% by weight of polymers formed from homopolymerization or copolymerization of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid.

[0069] Furthermore, it is preferred that the total amount of the oil phase of the emulsion is from 3.0% to 20.0% by weight, preferably from 5.0% to 15% by weight, and most preferably from 6.0% to 12.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion. By definition, emulsifiers and surfactants are not part of the oil phase. However, fatty acid alcohols are counted as part of the oil phase.

[0070] Other compounds that may be included in the oil phase are, for example, selected from other branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. These alcohols are also often referred to as Guerbet alcohols because they can be produced via the Guerbet reaction. Preferred alcohol oils are hexyldecanol (Eutanol® G 16, Guerbitol® T 16), octyldodecanol (Eutanol® G, Guerbitol® 20), and 2-ethylhexanol.

[0071] Further oils preferred according to the invention are selected from the group consisting of dicarboxylic acid esters of linear or branched C2-C10 alkanols, in particular diisopropyl adipate, di-n-butyl adipate, di(2-ethylhexyl) adipate, dioctyl adipate, diethyl / di-n-butyl / dioctyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, dioctyl malate, dioctyl maleate, dioctyl maleate, diisooctyl succinate, di-2-ethylhexyl succinate and di(2-hexyldecyl) succinate.

[0072] Other oils preferred according to the invention are selected from the addition products of 1 to 5 propylene oxide units with mono- or polyhydric C8-22-alkanols, such as caprylic alcohol, decanol, decanediol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, such as PPG-2 myristyl ether and PPG-3 myristyl ether (Witconol® APM).

[0073] Other oils are chosen from esters of linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2 to 30 carbon atoms and linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2 to 30 carbon atoms, which may be hydroxylated. These include hexyldecyl stearate (Eutanol® G 16 S), hexyldecyl laurate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft® C 24) and 2-ethylhexyl stearate (Cetiol® 868). Further preferred oils from this group are isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, 2-butyloctanoate, diisotridecyl acetate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate, ethylene glycol dioleate and dipalmitate.

[0074] Other oils that may be included in the emulsion according to the invention are chosen from addition products of at least 6 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units with mono- or polyhydric C3-22 alkanols, such as butanol, butylene glycol, myristyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, such as PPG-14 butyl ether (Ucon Fluid® AP), PPG-9 butyl ether (Breox® B25), PPG-10 butylene glycol (Macol® 57) and PPG-15 stearyl ether (Arlamol® E).

[0075] The other oils are preferably selected from esters of mono- or polybasic C2-C7 hydroxycarboxylic acids with C8-C22 fatty alcohols, in particular esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid and salicylic acid. Such esters based on linear C14 / 15 alkanols (e.g. C12-C15 alkyl lactates) and esters based on C12 / 13 alkanols branched in the 2-position are commercially available under the trade name Cosmacol® from Nordmann, Rassmann GmbH & Co., Hamburg, in particular the commercial products Cosmacol® ESI, Cosmacol® EMI and Cosmacol® ETI.

[0076] Other oils which can preferably be used are selected from the group consisting of symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, for example glycerol carbonate, dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol® CC) or the esters from DE 197 56 454 A1.

[0077] Other oils that can be preferably used are selected from esters formed by unsaturated C12-C22 fatty acid dimers (dimer fatty acids) and monovalent linear, branched or cyclic C2-C18 alkanols, or polyvalent linear or branched C2-C6 alkanols.

[0078] Particularly preferred additional oils are selected from branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, dicarboxylic acid esters of linear or branched C2-C10 alkanols, esters of branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2 to 30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2 to 30 carbon atoms (which may be hydroxylated), addition products of 1 to 5 propylene oxide units onto mono- or poly-C8-22 alkanols, addition products of at least 6 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units onto mono- or poly-C3-22 alkanols, esters of mono- or poly-C2-C7 hydroxycarboxylic acids with C8-C22 fatty alcohols, symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, esters of unsaturated C12-C22 fatty acid dimers (dimer fatty acids) with mono- linear, branched or cyclic C2-C18 alkanols, or with poly- linear or branched C2-C6 alkanols, and mixtures thereof.

[0079] Furthermore, preferably, the emulsion comprises at least one fatty alcohol comprising from 12 to 22 carbon atoms. Among these fatty alcohols, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their respective mixtures, cetearyl alcohol are most preferred.

[0080] When at least one fatty alcohol containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms is present, preferably the total amount of these fatty alcohols is from 0.5% to 8.0% by weight, more preferably from 1.0% to 6.0% by weight and most preferably from 1.3% to 3.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0081] The emulsion according to the invention also preferably comprises at least one fatty acid comprising 12 to 20 carbon atoms. When comprising one or more fatty acids comprising 12 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably the total amount of these fatty acids is from 0.2% to 5.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.3% to 3.0% by weight, and most preferably from 0.5% to 2.25% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0082] Furthermore, the emulsion according to the invention preferably also contains short-chain polyols containing 2 to 8 carbon atoms. Preferred polyols of this type are butanediol, glycerol, propylene glycol, pentanediol, butanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-heptanediol, 1,2-propylene glycol, methylpropylene glycol and caprylyl glycol.

[0083] Preferably, these preferred polyols are present in an amount of 0.5 to 10 wt%, more preferably 1 to 9 wt%, and most preferably 1.5 to 8 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0084] Furthermore, preferably, the emulsion comprises phenoxyethanol and / or ethylhexylglycerin as preservatives.

[0085] When phenoxyethanol is present, preferably the total amount of phenoxyethanol is in the range of 0.1 wt% to 0.8 wt% based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0086] When ethylhexylglycerin is present, preferably the total amount of ethylhexylglycerin is in the range of 0.1 wt% to 1.2 wt% based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0087] In one embodiment of the present invention, the emulsion preferably contains at least one nonionic emulsifier. However, it should be noted that the total amount of nonionic emulsifier is preferably limited to a maximum of 0.5% by weight, more preferably limited to a maximum of 0.3% by weight, and most preferably limited to a maximum of 0.2% by weight, or no nonionic emulsifier is contained at all; all values ​​are based on the total weight of the composition.

[0088] Furthermore, the emulsion preferably does not contain polymers formed from mixtures containing vinyl pyrrolidone. These polymers are no longer desirable due to their questionable biodegradability. Therefore, the emulsion preferably does not contain polymers formed from mixtures containing vinyl pyrrolidone. Therefore, the amount of polymers formed from mixtures containing vinyl pyrrolidone is preferably 0% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0089] According to the present invention, it is also advantageous if other active ingredients are included. These active ingredients are preferably selected from the group consisting of sodium hyaluronate, 1-methylhydantoin-2-imide, creatine, folic acid, panthenol, pantolactone, vitamin C, magnolia, calcium pantothenate, glycyrrhiza inflata root extract, carnitine, trehalose, and sodium ascorbyl phosphate. The total proportion of the active ingredients mentioned in this group is advantageously up to 5% by weight, preferably less than 4% or less than 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0090] Furthermore, preferably, the total amount of water contained in the emulsion is 70.0 wt % to 95 wt % based on the total weight of the emulsion. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0091] Example

[0092] The following examples are provided to illustrate the compositions of the present invention, but are not intended to limit the present invention to these examples. The values ​​in the examples are weight percentages, based on the total weight of the formulation.

[0093] Examples 1 to 6 are examples of the present invention, while Comparative Examples 1 to 3 are reference examples.

[0094]

[0095]

[0096] All the above formulations were prepared and their defoaming properties were analyzed.

[0097] Whitening / defoaming performance was evaluated by a panel of 15 experts. These experts were selected based on the global standard E1490-11. Whitening was assessed separately on the upper forearm. This evaluation measures the extent to which the product remains as an occlusive film (usually white) on the forearm.

[0098] The panelist applies 100 µL of the product in a 10-cm straight line to the upper forearm. Mark the ends of the 10-cm line with a pen. Use your index and middle fingers to quickly spread the product across the straight line on your arm at a rate of 120 strokes per minute. Evaluations are performed after 4 and 20 strokes. The panelist then assesses how much skin is visible and how much white foam is visible. Each score ranges from 0 (no blushing / no foaming) to 100 (complete blushing / foaming, i.e., no skin visible).

[0099] The experimental results are included in the table above. Comparative Example 3 shows a reference example, representing a conventional silicone-containing formulation. It can be seen that white foam was significantly reduced during application, comparing foaming after 4 and 20 applications. A similar rapid reduction was observed in the examples of the present invention (Example 6 compared to Comparative Example 3). The total amount of foam produced can be further reduced by adding an anionic emulsifier (Examples 1 to 5).

[0100] In contrast to the examples of the present invention, no reduction in foam was observed in the silicone-free reference examples, Control 1 and Control 2. In fact, an increase in foaming was observed when glyceryl stearate was used instead of sucrose ester.

Claims

1. A wash-free cosmetic emulsion comprising, by total weight of the emulsion: a. at least one sucrose ester, b. Less than 0.1% or 0% silicone oil and organosilicon compounds, and c. Less than 0.1% or 0% of alkanes and mineral oils, The invention is characterized in that the emulsion does not contain acrylic polymer.

2. Use of at least one sucrose ester in a leave-on cosmetic emulsion to reduce foaming of the emulsion when applied to human skin, the leave-on cosmetic emulsion comprising, by weight of the total emulsion: a. Less than 0.1% or 0% silicone oil and organosilicon compounds, and b. Less than 0.1% or 0% of alkanes and mineral oils, The invention is characterized in that the emulsion does not contain acrylic polymer.

3. Emulsion or use according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the sucrose ester is an ester of sucrose and at least one fatty acid containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably an ester of sucrose with at least one fatty acid containing 14 to 20 carbon atoms, more preferably an ester of sucrose with at least one fatty acid containing 16 to 18 carbon atoms, and most preferably an ester of sucrose with at least one fatty acid containing 18 carbon atoms.

4. Emulsion or use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the sucrose ester is selected from sucrose polystearate, sucrose distearate and / or sucrose stearate.

5. The emulsion or use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total amount of sucrose ester is from 0.01% to 8.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.2% to 7.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.4% to 6.5% by weight, preferably from 0.7% to 5.7% by weight, and most preferably from 0.9% to 5.2% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

6. Emulsion or use according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the emulsion comprises 0.01% to 8.0% by weight, more preferably 0.2% to 7.0% by weight, more preferably 0.4% to 6.5% by weight, more preferably 0.7% to 5.7% by weight and most preferably 0.9% to 5.2% by weight of sucrose polystearate, sucrose distearate and / or sucrose stearate, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

7. Emulsion or use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of sucrose ester is from 2.5% to 8% by weight, more preferably from 3.5% to 7% by weight and most preferably from 4.5% to 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

8. Emulsion or use according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the emulsion comprises sucrose distearate and / or sucrose stearate in a total amount of 2.5 to 8% by weight, more preferably 3.5 to 7% by weight and most preferably 4.5 to 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

9. Emulsion or use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one anionic emulsifier.

10. The emulsion or the use according to claim 1, characterized in that sodium stearoyl glutamate and / or sodium cetearyl sulfate are contained as anionic emulsifiers.

11. The emulsion or the use according to claim 1, characterized in that sodium stearoyl glutamate is contained in an amount of 0.05% to 1.2% by weight, preferably 0.1% to 0.8% by weight, and more preferably 0.15% to 0.4% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

12. The emulsion or the use according to claim 1, characterized in that sodium cetearyl sulfate is contained and the total amount of sodium cetearyl sulfate is 0.05% to 1.2% by weight, preferably 0.1% to 0.8% by weight and more preferably 0.15% to 0.4% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

13. Emulsion or use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the emulsion is an oil-in-water emulsion.

14. The emulsion or the use according to claim 1 , characterized in that the emulsion further comprises salicylic acid and / or lactic acid, the total amount of salicylic acid being from 0.1% to 4.2% by weight, preferably from 0.3% to 2.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.4% to 2.2% by weight, and most preferably from 0.8% to 1.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion, and the total amount of lactic acid being from 0.1% to 4.2% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 3.5% by weight, more preferably from 1.2% to 2.9% by weight, and most preferably from 1.8% to 2.6% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

15. The emulsion or use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the emulsion further comprises a polysaccharide polymer thickener, preferably selected from xanthan gum, sclerotium gum, carob gum, succinoglycan and hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, in a total amount of 0.2% to 1.8% by weight, preferably 0.3% to 1.5% by weight, and more preferably 0.5% to 1.4% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion, the polysaccharide polymer thickener being more preferably a combination of xanthan gum and hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, wherein the weight ratio of xanthan gum to hydroxypropyl starch phosphate is 10:1 to 1:10, preferably 2:1 to 1:8, and more preferably 1:1 to 1:

6.

16. The emulsion or use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the emulsion further comprises at least one fatty acid triglyceride represented by the following formula (I): where R 1 、R 2 and R 3 independently represents a saturated and / or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alkyl group containing 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably selected from coconut (Cocos Nucifera) oil (triglyceride (fractionated coconut oil)), Astrocaryum Murumuru seed butter (Astrocaryum triglyceride), C10-18 triglyceride, C10-40 isoalkyl acid triglyceride, C12-18 acid triglyceride, C18-36 acid triglyceride, C8-12 acid triglyceride, caprylic / capric / myristic / stearic acid triglyceride, caprylic / capric triglyceride, capric / lauric / myristic / oleic acid triglyceride, caprylic / capric / linoleic acid triglyceride, caprylic / capric / stearic acid triglyceride, ricinoleyl maleate (Ceraphyl RMT (ricinoleic monomaleic triglyceride), hydrogenated C12-18 triglycerides, lauric / palmitic / oleic triglycerides, erucic / palmitic triglycerides, oleic / linoleic triglycerides, oleic / palmitic / lauric / myristic / linoleic triglycerides, ricinoleic / caproic / capric / capric triglycerides, caprylic / capric / succinic triglycerides and / or jojoba oil / caprylic / capric triglycerides, and more preferably caprylic / capric triglycerides.

17. The emulsion or use according to claim 16, characterized in that the total amount of fatty acid triglycerides is from 0.5% to 8.0% by weight, preferably from 1.0% to 6.5% by weight, more preferably from 2.1% to 6% by weight, and most preferably from 3.0% to 5.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

18. The emulsion or use according to claim 1, characterized in that the emulsion further comprises a short-chain polyol containing 2 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably selected from butanediol, glycerol, propylene glycol, pentanediol, butanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-heptanediol, 1,2-propylene glycol, methylpropanediol and octanediol, in an amount of 0.5% to 10% by weight, preferably 1% to 9% by weight and more preferably 1.5% to 8% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

19. The emulsion or the use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the emulsion further comprises phenoxyethanol and / or ethylhexylglycerin, wherein the total amount of phenoxyethanol is from 0.1% to 0.8% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion, and the total amount of ethylhexylglycerin is from 0.1% to 1.2% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

20. The emulsion or use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the emulsion further comprises an active ingredient selected from the group consisting of sodium hyaluronate, 1-methylhydantoin-2-imide, creatine, folic acid, panthenol, pantolactone, vitamin C, magnolia, calcium pantothenate, glycyrrhiza inflata root extract, carnitine, trehalose and sodium ascorbyl phosphate, the total proportion of which is at most 5% by weight, preferably less than 4% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

21. The emulsion or the use according to claim 1, characterized in that the total amount of water contained in the emulsion is from 70.0% to 95% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

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