Color-retaining and multi-color production process of yarn-dyed heavy-twist leno fabric

By performing dyeing, humidification, high-twist processing, and refining on yarn-dyed fabrics, the problems of insufficient dye bonding and yarn tension fluctuations were solved, achieving color stability and consistency of multi-color effects, and improving yarn quality and weaving stability.

CN122013410APending Publication Date: 2026-05-12WUJIANG TONGXIN SILK WEAVING CO LTD
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Patent Information

Authority / Receiving Office
CN · China
Patent Type
Applications(China)
Current Assignee / Owner
WUJIANG TONGXIN SILK WEAVING CO LTD
Filing Date
2026-04-02
Publication Date
2026-05-12

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

In existing technologies, yarn-dyed brocade fabrics are prone to fading and color changes due to insufficient dye bonding, and the yarn tension fluctuates greatly, affecting the fabric quality and the consistency of multi-color effects.

Method used

By dyeing yarns of various colors to allow the dyes to penetrate into the fibers, combined with humidification and high twisting to stabilize yarn tension, double warp beam weaving to control tension differences, and refining to improve color stability.

Benefits of technology

It improves the color stability and consistency of multi-color effects of fabrics, reduces yarn breakage and fiber damage, and enhances the stability of the weaving process and the uniformity of fabric structure.

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Abstract

The invention belongs to the technical field of fabrics, and particularly relates to a color-retaining and multi-color production process of a yarn-dyed heavy-twist leno fabric. The process comprises the following steps: dyeing yarns in various colors to enable dye to permeate into fibers, humidifying the yarns, performing heavy twisting processing, and forming a tension buffer area through yarn supply adjustment in the heavy twisting process to reduce tension fluctuation; multi-color yarns are woven through double warp beams, so that the tension difference of different yarns is controlled; and carrying out refining treatment on the woven fabric. Through the synergistic effect of the process steps, the color stability and the multicolor effect consistency of the fabric are improved, and meanwhile the stability in the production process is improved.
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Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention belongs to the field of fabric technology, specifically relating to a color retention and multi-color production process for yarn-dyed high-twist crocheted fabric. Background Technology

[0002] Currently, in the field of yarn-dyed silk fabrics, especially voile fabrics, a combination of warp and weft yarns of multiple colors is typically used, combined with high-twist yarn processing technology and specific weave structures to obtain fabrics with multi-color effects, three-dimensional textures, and certain drape properties. The production process generally involves first dyeing the yarns, followed by twisting, weaving, and subsequent refining processes to fix the dyes onto the fibers, thus forming a fabric product with both decorative and wearable properties.

[0003] While existing technologies can achieve multi-color effects and basic structural characteristics in brocade fabrics, in practical applications, insufficient dye binding within the fibers leads to color fading or color changes during post-processing and use, resulting in poor color stability. Furthermore, significant differences in dye absorption properties between different colored yarns easily cause uneven overall color distribution, affecting the consistency of the multi-color effect. Simultaneously, large fluctuations in yarn tension during high-twist processing and brocade weaving cause unstable weaving, impacting fabric quality.

[0004] Therefore, how to improve the color stability and consistency of multi-color effects of multi-color woven high-twist grosgrain fabric during production, while also enhancing the stability of yarn processing and manufacturing processes, is a technical problem that needs to be solved.

[0005] It should be noted that the information disclosed in this background section is only for understanding the background technology of the present application concept, and therefore, the above description is not considered to constitute prior art information. Summary of the Invention

[0006] This invention provides a color retention and multi-color production process for yarn-dyed high-twist crocheted fabric.

[0007] In a first aspect, the color retention and multi-color production process for yarn-dyed high-twist crocheted fabric provided by the present invention includes: S1. Dyeing multiple colors of yarn, allowing the dye to penetrate from the outer fiber layer inward; S2. After the yarn is humidified, it is subjected to high twisting. During the high twisting process, a tension buffer is formed by adjusting the yarn supply to reduce tension fluctuations during the high twisting process. S3. Multi-colored yarns are woven using a double warp beam to control the tension differences between different yarns; S4. Refine the woven fabric to improve its color stability.

[0008] In one alternative embodiment, the dyeing process employs a color-preserving dyeing process, in which the dye first penetrates the sericin layer and then further enters the fibroin layer to react.

[0009] In one alternative implementation, the humidification process involves continuously humidifying the yarn in a sealed environment to improve the fiber's flexibility and elongation properties.

[0010] In one alternative implementation, high twisting is applied to the yarn with a high twist, thereby enhancing the cohesion between fibers.

[0011] In one alternative implementation, the yarn supply is adjusted to create a relaxed yarn supply state by increasing the yarn supply speed relative to the take-up speed.

[0012] In one alternative implementation, double warp beams are used for weaving, with different tension control methods applied to the twist warp and ground warp respectively.

[0013] In one alternative implementation, the woven fabric comprises a combination of gauze and jacquard structures.

[0014] In one alternative implementation, the refining process includes performing multi-stage refining sequentially and gradually extending the refining time.

[0015] In one alternative embodiment, the refining process includes a protease treatment step, and the refining process is further followed by a multi-stage water washing process.

[0016] In one alternative implementation, the yarn consists of warp yarn of a single color and weft yarn of at least two colors.

[0017] The beneficial effects of this invention are as follows: by dyeing yarns of various colors to allow the dye to penetrate into the fiber, and combining this with post-weaving refining, the bonding stability between the dye and the fiber is improved, thereby enhancing the color stability of the fabric. Simultaneously, by uniformly post-treating different colored yarns, overall color differences are reduced, improving the consistency of multi-color effects. Furthermore, by subjecting the dyed yarns to humidification and then high-twist processing, and by creating a tension buffer zone through yarn supply adjustment during the high-twist process, the stress on the yarn tends to stabilize, thereby reducing yarn breakage and fiber damage. The use of dual warp beams to control different yarns in kilt weaving reduces tension control during the weaving process, thereby improving weaving stability and fabric structural uniformity. Overall, this achieves color stability, consistent multi-color effects, and a stable production process.

[0018] Other features and advantages of the invention will be set forth in the description which follows, and will be apparent in part from the description, or may be learned by practicing the invention. The objects and other advantages of the invention are realized and obtained in accordance with the structures particularly pointed out in the description, claims and drawings.

[0019] To make the above-mentioned objects, features and advantages of the present invention more apparent and understandable, preferred embodiments are described below in detail with reference to the accompanying drawings. Attached Figure Description

[0020] To more clearly illustrate the specific embodiments of the present invention or the technical solutions in the prior art, the drawings used in the description of the specific embodiments or the prior art will be briefly introduced below. Obviously, the drawings described below are some embodiments of the present invention. For those skilled in the art, other drawings can be obtained from these drawings without creative effort.

[0021] Figure 1 A flowchart of a color-retention and multi-color production process for a yarn-dyed high-twist crocheted fabric provided in this embodiment of the disclosure; Figure 2 A flowchart of key steps in the color retention and multicolor production process of a yarn-dyed high-twist crocheted fabric provided in this embodiment of the disclosure; Figure 3 A schematic diagram of the vines and leaves of a yarn-dyed high-twist crocheted fabric for color retention and multi-color production process provided in an embodiment of this disclosure. Figure 4 A schematic diagram of the fabric's floral structure for a color-preserving and multi-color production process of a yarn-dyed high-twist crocheted fabric provided in this embodiment of the disclosure. Figure 5 An overall fabric design drawing of a color-preservation and multi-color production process for a yarn-dyed high-twist crocheted fabric provided in this embodiment of the disclosure; Figure 6 Test reports for fabrics provided in embodiments of this disclosure. Detailed Implementation

[0022] To make the objectives, technical solutions, and advantages of the embodiments of the present invention clearer, the technical solutions of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below with reference to the accompanying drawings. Obviously, the described embodiments are only some embodiments of the present invention, not all embodiments. Based on the embodiments of the present invention, all other embodiments obtained by those skilled in the art without creative effort are within the scope of protection of the present invention.

[0023] The shortcomings of the above solutions are the result of the inventor's practical experience and careful research. Therefore, the discovery process of the above problems and the solutions proposed in this disclosure below should be considered as the inventor's contribution to this disclosure.

[0024] The following detailed description of some embodiments of the present invention is provided in conjunction with the accompanying drawings. Unless otherwise specified, the following embodiments and features can be combined with each other.

[0025] See Figure 1 , Figure 1 The paper illustrates a color retention and multi-color production process for yarn-dyed high-twist crocheted fabric, comprising the following steps: Raw material sampling and testing → soaking → winding → skeining → dyeing treatment → natural drying → winding → spinning → humidification → high twisting → setting → rewinding → rewinding → retwisting → resetting → rewinding → warping → weaving → refining treatment.

[0026] The dyeing process employs a color-preserving scouring dyeing technique to allow the dye to penetrate into the fiber; the humidification and high-twist processing steps are used to reduce tension fluctuations during yarn processing; the weaving steps utilize a bast yarn weave structure; and the refining process is used to improve the color stability of the fabric.

[0027] The above process flow is a specific embodiment of the present invention. The order of each step and some process steps can be adjusted or simplified according to actual needs.

[0028] See Figure 2 In some embodiments, the color retention and multi-color production process of yarn-dyed high-twist crocheted fabric includes the following steps: S1. Dyeing treatment: Dyeing treatment is carried out on yarns of multiple colors. In order to achieve better multi-color effects and excellent fastness and drape, color-preserving dyeing process is used. In some embodiments, the dyeing formula is: 8% reactive dye, 5g / L soda ash, 10g / L leveling agent, 30g / L sodium sulfate, liquor ratio 1:22, and fixing time 30min.

[0029] The dyeing process includes: immersion temperature 50℃, first add 1 / 2 sodium sulfate for 10 minutes, then add 1 / 2 sodium sulfate for 20 minutes, then fix with soda ash for 30 minutes at a fixing temperature of 45℃, and finally wash with water and soap at a temperature of 55-60℃ for 10 minutes, with a slow heating rate of 2℃ / min.

[0030] In some embodiments, the reactive dye used is a bireactive dye.

[0031] S2. Humidification and high twisting: The dyed yarn is humidified and then subjected to high twisting.

[0032] In some embodiments, before the yarn is twisted, a humidification pretreatment process is added, in which the yarn after twisting is placed in a closed environment and continuously humidified to allow it to fully absorb moisture, thereby significantly improving the fiber's flexibility and elasticity, maintaining good elongation performance, and effectively reducing the breakage rate during the twisting process.

[0033] In some embodiments, during the high-twist process of silk, the yarn feeding speed is adjusted to be higher than the take-up speed, creating a controllable "overfeed" effect, thereby establishing a tension buffer zone between the twisting zone and the take-up zone. When the yarn is added to the twisting zone, due to the relaxation provided by the overfeed, the yarn can pass through the twisting disc with a lower and more stable tension, effectively offsetting the tension fluctuations caused by mechanical vibration or changes in roll diameter during the high-speed operation of the double twister.

[0034] It avoids the breakage caused by excessive instantaneous tension, and also helps to reduce friction damage on the surface of the yarn, maintain the original luster and feel of the silk fibers, significantly improve the one-time forming rate of silk high twist, and ensure the uniformity and stability of yarn quality.

[0035] In some embodiments, the weft yarn employs a high-twist process with 28 twists. By significantly increasing the yarn twist, the cohesion between fibers is greatly enhanced, thereby effectively improving the fabric's tear resistance, abrasion resistance, and anti-snagging ability, giving the fabric a more stable structural foundation and a longer service life. Simultaneously, the high twist creates a fine and uniform crimp structure in the yarn, increasing its own rigidity and elastic recovery, thus giving the fabric superior drape. When worn, the fabric has smooth, natural lines, a crisp and shapely texture, and combines structural aesthetics with wearing comfort.

[0036] S3. Weaving: Multi-colored yarns processed with high twist are woven using a grosgrain structure. The tension of different yarns is controlled separately by double warp beams to reduce tension differences during weaving. Through the rational combination and precise interlacing of two sets of different colored yarns, completely different color effects are achieved on the front and back of the fabric, even with the same pattern and color, or different colors within the same pattern. This structure breaks the limitations of traditional single-sided color weaving, allowing the fabric to display rich and varied color gradations and dynamic luster as natural light subtly changes.

[0037] S4. Refining Treatment: The woven fabric undergoes a refining treatment to improve its color stability. In some embodiments, refining mainly uses refining agents, soda ash, and protease for color preservation, gradually increasing the refining time to achieve the purpose of brightening the luster of the colored silk.

[0038] In some embodiments, the refining process includes: first, preparing 8 refining vats, and then refining the woven yarn-dyed greige fabric using soda ash, sericin refining agent, and protease for color preservation and degumming. The first 6 vats are gradually refined under the condition of being treated at 95°C for 40 minutes. After the treatment is completed (about 4 hours), a certain amount of protease is added to the 7th vat and it is treated at 40°C for 60 minutes. It is then treated at around 40°C for 40 minutes. The last vat requires three water washes at different temperatures to ensure the luster and vibrancy of the fabric.

[0039] Main process parameters: Fabric weaving process sheet

[0040] Fabric weaving structure diagram: The base is a 1-twist 2-section ribbing + jacquard double-sided structure, using double warp beam weaving (the reason is that the base is a 1-twist 2-section ribbing, with a large tension difference. Since the twist warp is stretched more during the twisting process, its weaving shrinkage will be greater than that of the ground warp. If the difference is too large, it may be necessary to use "double beams" to control the tension of the twist warp and the ground warp separately during weaving).

[0041] See Figure 3 and Figure 4 In some embodiments, the tissue structure diagram of the vines, leaves and flowers in the specific jacquard is shown: the jacquard double-sided structure is "jacquard double-sided oblique"; Figure 5 The overall fabric design is shown.

[0042] Reference Figure 6 As shown, in some embodiments, the fabric produced according to the above-described color-fastness and multi-color production process of a yarn-dyed high-twist crocheted fabric was tested. The results showed that its color fastness and mechanical properties met the expected requirements. The test data are as follows: Fiber content (%): Mulberry silk 100; Elongation at break (%): 21.0 in the warp direction and 25.0 in the weft direction; Fracture strength: 790 N in the longitudinal direction and 970 N in the latitudinal direction; Yarn slippage at seams: 3mm radially, 2mm weftly; Color fastness - acid perspiration resistance grade 4; Color fastness - Alkali perspiration resistance grade 4; Color fastness - dry rubbing resistance: 4-5; Color fastness - wet rubbing resistance grade 4-5; Colorfastness - Dry cleaning resistance: 4-5; By dyeing multi-colored yarns to allow the dyes to penetrate the fibers, and combining this with post-weaving refining, the bonding stability between the dyes and fibers is improved, thus enhancing the color stability of the fabric. Simultaneously, uniform post-treatment of different colored yarns reduces overall color variations and improves the consistency of multi-color effects. Furthermore, the dyed yarns undergo a humidification and high-twist process, with tension buffers created through yarn supply adjustments during this process, stabilizing the yarn stress and reducing breakage and fiber damage. Double warp beam control of different yarns in kilometre weaving reduces tension control during the weaving process, thereby improving weaving stability and fabric structural uniformity. Overall, this achieves color stability, consistent multi-color effects, and a stable production process.

[0043] Based on the above-described preferred embodiments of the present invention, and through the foregoing description, those skilled in the art can make various changes and modifications without departing from the inventive concept. The technical scope of this invention is not limited to the contents of the specification, but must be determined according to the scope of the claims.

Claims

1. A color-preservation and multi-color production process for yarn-dyed high-twist crocheted fabric, characterized in that, include: S1. Dyeing multiple colors of yarn, allowing the dye to penetrate from the outer fiber layer inward; S2. After the yarn is humidified, it is subjected to high twisting. During the high twisting process, a tension buffer is formed by adjusting the yarn supply to reduce tension fluctuations during the high twisting process. S3. Multi-colored yarns are woven using a double warp beam to control the tension differences between different yarns; S4. Refine the woven fabric to improve its color stability.

2. The color retention and multi-color production process of yarn-dyed high-twist crocheted fabric as described in claim 1, characterized in that, The dyeing process employs a color-preserving dyeing technique, whereby the dye first penetrates the sericin layer and then further enters the fibroin layer to react.

3. The color retention and multi-color production process of yarn-dyed high-twist crocheted fabric as described in claim 1, characterized in that, The humidification process involves continuously humidifying the yarn in a sealed environment to improve the fiber's flexibility and elongation.

4. The color retention and multi-color production process of yarn-dyed high-twist crocheted fabric as described in claim 1, characterized in that, The high-twist processing involves applying a high twist to the yarn to enhance the cohesion between fibers.

5. The color retention and multi-color production process of yarn-dyed high-twist crocheted fabric as described in claim 1, characterized in that, The yarn supply adjustment is achieved by increasing the yarn supply speed relative to the winding speed to create a relaxed yarn supply state.

6. The color retention and multi-color production process of yarn-dyed high-twist crocheted fabric as described in claim 1, characterized in that, The double warp beams are used for weaving, with different tension control methods applied to the twist warp and the ground warp.

7. The color retention and multi-color production process of yarn-dyed high-twist crocheted fabric as described in claim 1, characterized in that, The woven fabric used includes a combination of gauze and jacquard structures.

8. The color retention and multi-color production process of yarn-dyed high-twist crocheted fabric as described in claim 1, characterized in that, The refining process includes performing multiple stages of refining sequentially, with the refining time being gradually extended.

9. The color retention and multi-color production process of yarn-dyed high-twist crocheted fabric as described in claim 8, characterized in that, The refining process includes a protease treatment step, and the refining process is followed by a multi-stage water washing process.

10. The color retention and multi-color production process of the yarn-dyed high-twist crocheted fabric as described in claim 1, characterized in that, The yarn consists of warp yarn of a single color and weft yarn of at least two colors.