Multifunctional down jacket fabric and dyeing and finishing process thereof

Abstract

The application discloses a multifunctional down jacket fabric, relates to the field of functional textile fabric dyeing and finishing technology, and adopts modified nylon 66 extinction stretch textured yarn for the warp yarn and weft yarn of the fabric, and the single yarn specification is 36D / 20F; the fiber body of each single yarn is nylon 66 resin synthesized through polycondensation reaction of hexanediamine and adipic acid, the resin forms a single yarn high molecular skeleton, and the nylon 66 resin in the single yarn accounts for 97.5% of the total mass; 2.5% of modified auxiliary components are synchronously mixed into the main body resin in the spinning polymerization stage, and the mass ratio of the modified components is 1.2% of polyether type hydrophilic modified monomer, 0.8% of long-acting antistatic master batch and 0.5% of organic silicon softening modifier; the application integrates three independent setting finishing processes of waterproofing, stain removal and antistatic into a single same-bath setting process, simultaneously omits the independent pressing process relying on the synchronous dyeing and wrinkling integrated process, reduces three independent processing processes of the whole continuous production line, reduces the comprehensive water and electricity energy consumption, and improves the overall production efficiency of the fabric.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention relates to the field of functional textile fabric dyeing and finishing technology, specifically to a multifunctional down jacket fabric and its dyeing and finishing process. Background Technology

[0002] Currently, high-end lightweight down garments generally use nylon 66 fine denier high-density plain weave fabric as the outer layer. Regular nylon 66 fiber has high molecular chain regularity and dense crystalline structure, and the woven fabric is light, smooth and has good basic down-proof performance.

[0003] The first type is coating composite waterproofing, which achieves water repellency by bonding polyurethane waterproof membranes, polytetrafluoroethylene films, or coating waterproof resins to the fabric surface. However, the coating can clog fabric pores, significantly reducing breathability and causing the fabric to stiffen, thus losing the soft feel of down jackets. The second type is multi-stage independent functional padding finishing, which separates waterproofing, stain removal, and antistatic finishing processes for setting and baking. This process is fragmented and lengthy, and repeated high-temperature heat treatment damages the colorfastness of nylon fibers. It also consumes a lot of water and electricity, and controlling color differences between different batches of fabric is difficult. The third type is... The separate creping process is divided into two types: hollow yarn pre-woven creping and rope-like fabric hot rolling creping. Both require additional independent creping and washing processes before and after dyeing. Conventional dyeing cannot simultaneously form a uniform and lasting textured surface, and wrinkles tend to disappear after multiple washes. The fourth type is the conventional single or double calendering and leveling process. Multiple hot pressing will continuously compress the internal pores of the fabric. Light-colored fibers shrink much more when heated than dark-colored fibers. The same set of calendering parameters cannot accommodate both light and dark-colored fabrics. Enterprises need to set up two independent production lines for separate processing, resulting in low equipment utilization and high production management costs.

[0004] The existing process has the following core technical defects: First, waterproof finishing relies on a hydrophobic film to achieve water repellency, while easy stain removal requires hydrophilic wetting sites to peel off stains. The two mechanisms are conflicting, and conventional processes cannot simultaneously achieve both spray waterproofing and stain removal efficiency. Second, dyeing virgin nylon 66 fibers is difficult, and separating the dyeing and wrinkling processes adds extra processing time. Third, the thermal shrinkage of dark and light colored fabrics differs greatly, making it impossible to share production lines. Fourth, the breathability of the fabric fluctuates greatly after multiple pressings, making it impossible to balance the needs of downproofing and breathability. Fifth, spinning oil, weaving sizing agents, and metal ions remain on the fiber surface, significantly reducing the binding strength of functional agents, and causing various functions to rapidly decline after washing. Summary of the Invention

[0005] The purpose of this invention is to overcome the shortcomings of existing technologies and provide a multifunctional down jacket fabric and its dyeing and finishing process; on the one hand, the spinning stage of nylon 66 yarn is modified and optimized, and on the other hand, an integrated and complete dyeing and finishing process is constructed to form a closed-loop continuous production system.

[0006] The technical solution adopted by this invention to solve its technical problem is: a multifunctional down jacket fabric; all warp and weft yarns of the fabric are made of modified nylon 66 dull stretch textured yarn, with a single filament specification of 36D / 20F; the main fiber of each single filament is nylon 66 resin synthesized by polycondensation reaction of hexamethylenediamine and adipic acid, which constitutes the polymer skeleton of the single filament, and nylon 66 resin accounts for 97.5% of the total mass in the single filament; during the spinning polymerization stage, 2.5% of the total mass of modified auxiliary components are simultaneously mixed into the main resin, and the mass ratio of the modified components is 1.2% of polyether-type hydrophilic modified monomer, 0.8% of long-lasting antistatic masterbatch, and 0.5% of organosilicon softening modifier; The greige fabric is woven in a plain weave, with a warp density of 161 threads / in, a weft density of 159 threads / in, a width of 162.8cm, and a weight of 54.8g / m². The warp shrinkage is 3%, and the weft shrinkage is 8%. After the greige fabric is woven, there is no coating or composite film; all functions are provided by the subsequent integrated dyeing and finishing process. After the complete dyeing and finishing process, the finished product has a warp density of 179 threads / in, a weft density of 166 threads / in, a width of 142cm, and a weight of 62g / m². The finished fiber surface composite functional film simultaneously loads C6 low-fluorine hydrophobic components, hydrophilic detergency components, and ion-conductive antistatic components; the high-density fabric can effectively block down leakage, and the overall fabric is light, thin and soft.

[0007] This invention also provides an integrated continuous dyeing and finishing process for the above-mentioned fabrics, comprising the following steps: Step 1, Fabric splicing: The finished fabric is continuously sewn together end to end. The machine runs at a speed of 70m / min. After splicing, the whole roll of fabric is stored in a box-type stacking container to ensure that the fabric is free from stretching and creases. Step 2, Enhanced Chelating Low-Temperature Stacking Degreasing: Prepare a special room-temperature stacking treatment solution with the following mass ratio: sodium hydroxide 10%, organometallic chelating agent 2%, fatty alcohol penetrant 1.2%, nylon-specific dispersing degreasing agent 1.5%, and the remainder deionized water; use a one-dip-one-roll method to completely saturate the fabric with the treatment solution, controlling the roll-in rate to 70%. After saturation, the fabric is placed in a sealed stacking silo and stacked at room temperature for 24 hours. During the stacking stage, the fabric is kept moist and not allowed to dry out. The unit operates at a speed of 50 m / min. Step 3, Desizing and Drying: After stacking, the greige fabric is continuously fed into a multi-compartment washing unit for multi-stage washing to fully remove weaving sizing impurities. After washing, it is directly connected to a segmented drying oven for drying. The drying unit operates at a speed of 50m / min, and the dried semi-finished fabric is stacked and stored in box-type containers. Step 4, semi-finished product weighing and testing: Randomly select three pieces of dried semi-finished fabric with a size of 1㎡, weigh them by unit area, and record the average weight data for subsequent process parameter matching. Step 5, Simultaneous Dyeing and Wrinkling Process: Prepare a special dyeing working bath. The bath composition is: 1-5% owf of acid dye and 3-6 g / L of leveling and wrinkle-promoting composite auxiliary agent. The pH value of the bath is slowly adjusted to 4.5-5.5 using acetic acid. The leveling and wrinkle-promoting composite auxiliary agent is composed of fatty alcohol polyoxyethylene ether, polyamide softener, and polyethylene glycol wrinkle-promoting components in a fixed ratio. The fabric is put into the dyeing machine at room temperature and heated to 98℃ at a uniform speed and held for 40 minutes. The dyeing and three-dimensional embossed wrinkle formation are completed simultaneously throughout the heating and holding process, without the need for a separate wrinkling process. Step 6, spreading the fabric: After dyeing and wrinkling, the fabric with natural wrinkles is fed into the spreading machine. The spreading rollers pull the fabric flat at a uniform speed to eliminate local dead wrinkles. The machine speed is 70m / min. Step 7, Loose-type segmented drying: After the fabric is laid flat, it is sent into six independent segmented drying ovens for loose-type drying. All six drying ovens are set to a uniform drying temperature of 130℃. The drying unit operates at a speed of 45m / min. The entire process is loosely conveyed without tension to avoid wrinkles from disappearing. After drying, the fabric is stored in a box-type container. Step 8, Online Inspection of Semi-finished Products: The dried fabric is continuously conveyed to the online inspection station. The equipment collects two sets of data in real time: the unit weight of the fabric and the basic air permeability value. The data is transmitted to the back-end setting unit control system in real time for automatic adjustment of the setting speed. Step 9: Waterproofing, Stain Removal, Antistatic, and Three-in-One Bath Finishing: Two sets of freely switchable finishing agents are set up. Both sets of agents use a one-dip-one-paddle process, with the padding rate controlled within the range of 60%-80%. The mass ratio of the first set of C6 low-fluorine high-performance finishing solution is as follows: C6 low-fluorine waterproofing agent 3%-7%, stain remover 2%-6%, nonionic antistatic agent 1%-3%, silicone penetrant 0.5%-1.5%, epoxy crosslinking agent 0.5%-1.5%, and the balance being deionized water. The preferred intermediate ratio is: C6 low-fluorine waterproofing agent 5%, stain remover 4%, nonionic antistatic agent 2%, silicone penetrant 2%, and the remainder being deionized water. The first set of finishing agents consists of: 1% penetrant and 1% epoxy crosslinking agent. When using this agent for setting, the temperature of oven sections 2 through 8 should be uniformly set to 185℃, and the production line speed should be 60m / min. The second set of fluorine-free environmentally friendly finishing solutions contains: 6% bio-based fluorine-free hydrophobic agent, 3.5% plant-based detergent, 2% cationic antistatic agent, 1% silicone penetrant, 1.2% low-temperature crosslinking agent, and the remainder deionized water. When using this agent for setting, the temperature of oven sections 2 through 8 should be uniformly set to 170℃, and the production line speed should be 55m / min. After setting, the fabrics should be stored in a saddle-type fabric rack to avoid stacking and indentations. Step 10, First front-side multi-pass calendering: Use pure nylon calendering rollers to perform two consecutive calendering processes on the front side of the fabric; the reference roller temperature of the calender is 165℃, and the roller pressure is 45t; when processing light-colored blanks, the overall roller temperature is increased by 5℃, and the roller pressure is increased by 5t simultaneously; after calendering, the fabric is saddle-shaped and stored. Step 11, intermediate stress release and setting: The semi-finished fabric after the initial calendering is sent to the setting unit to eliminate the internal compressive stress of the fibers; the temperature of the setting oven from the 2nd to the 8th section is 170℃, the unit runs at a speed of 50m / min, the fabric is conveyed with the front side facing the calendering roller, and the finished product is saddle-type stored. Step 12, Second front single-pass calendering: Continue to use nylon calendering rollers to perform a single front calendering operation, with a reference roller temperature of 160℃ and a roller pressure of 38t; for light-colored fabrics, simultaneously increase the roller temperature by 5℃ and the roller pressure by 5t. Step 13, Third front single-pass calendering: Nylon calendering roller performs single front fine calendering, with a reference roller temperature of 155℃ and a roller pressure of 32t; for light-colored fabrics, the roller temperature is simultaneously increased by 5℃ and the roller pressure is increased by 5t. Step 14, Comprehensive Inspection of Finished Products: After all three calendering processes are completed, the product is transported to the finished product inspection station for continuous testing of fabric weight. The weight per unit area of ​​the finished product is controlled at 62g / m². At the same time, all quantitative performance indicators such as breathability, waterproofing, stain removal, antistatic properties, color difference, and wrinkle removal are tested.

[0008] Compared with the prior art, the beneficial effects of the present invention are: (1) This invention integrates the three independent finishing processes of waterproofing, stain removal and antistatic into a single bath finishing process. At the same time, relying on the integrated process of synchronous dyeing and wrinkling, the independent wrinkling process is eliminated. The entire continuous production line reduces three independent processing steps, reduces the overall water and electricity consumption, and improves the overall production efficiency of the fabric. By regulating the molecular structure of the composite film on the fiber surface through the epoxy crosslinking agent in the bath formula, the film layer has both hydrophobic and hydrophilic stain-removing groups, which completely solves the long-standing technical problem of the conflict between waterproofing and stain removal functions in the industry. With the three-stage gradient cooling and pressure reduction calendering process and the temperature and pressure fine adjustment mechanism for light-colored fabrics, dark and light-colored fabrics can share a complete production line for continuous processing without the need for separate production lines. The overall utilization rate of equipment is increased by 50%, and the loss of raw materials and inventory pressure during production changes are reduced. Relying on the semi-finished product breathability online closed-loop automatic control system, the breathability value of batch finished products fluctuates very little, which can simultaneously meet the high down-proof requirements of the fabric and the breathability comfort of daily wear.

[0009] (2) This invention completes the modification of multiple components in the spinning and polymerization stage of nylon 66 yarn, and with the addition of a high-efficiency chelating low-temperature stacking pretreatment system, it can thoroughly remove spinning grease, weaving sizing agents, and metal ion impurities from the fiber surface, significantly improving the adhesion of waterproof, stain-removing, and antistatic finishing agents to the fiber surface. After multiple washes, the decline in various functional indicators of the fabric is greatly reduced. The matching special leveling and wrinkle-promoting composite auxiliary agent reduces the crystallinity of nylon 66 fiber, and the dry and wet friction color difference ΔE of the fabric can be controlled within 1.5. The three-dimensional wrinkle retention rate reaches more than 94% after 50 consecutive washes. The three-stage gradient gradual cooling, pressure reduction, and calendering gradually control the size of the internal pores of the fabric, giving the fabric a delicate matte feel while stably controlling the air permeability value within 6.0CC / s. The 62g / m² high-density finished product is light, thin, and soft. The high-density structure combined with multiple heat shrinkage results in excellent down-proof performance.

[0010] (3) This invention is equipped with two sets of setting agent formulations: C6 low-fluorine and bio-based low-temperature fluorine-free. These formulations are adapted to the domestic high-end down fabric market and the environmental protection standards for fluorine-free textile exports in Europe and the United States, respectively. The setting temperature of the fluorine-free formulation is reduced by 15°C, further reducing carbon emissions during production. At the same time, an economical processing route with two simplified calendering stages is set up. Manufacturers can freely choose the complete set of high-end processes or low-cost simplified solutions according to product pricing and market demand, making the product applicable to a wider range of scenarios. Compared with the traditional multi-stage segmented dyeing and finishing process, the microfiber cleanliness, functional film adhesion, washability, appearance, and batch stability of the fabric of this invention are all comprehensively improved. The overall cost of industrial production is lower, and the market competitive advantage is significant. Attached Figure Description

[0011] To more clearly illustrate the technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention or the prior art, the drawings used in the description of the embodiments or the prior art will be briefly introduced below. Obviously, the drawings described below are only some embodiments of the present invention. For those skilled in the art, other drawings can be obtained based on these drawings without creative effort.

[0012] Figure 1 This is a schematic diagram of the fabric weaving pattern plate of the present invention; Figure 2 This is a process flow diagram of the present invention. Detailed Implementation

[0013] To make the objectives, technical solutions, and advantages of this invention clearer, the invention will be further described in detail below with reference to embodiments. It should be understood that the specific embodiments described herein are merely illustrative and not intended to limit the invention.

[0014] Example 1: This example provides a high-end fabric with complete C6 three-gradient calendering. The raw material for the fabric is modified nylon 66 matte stretched textured yarn as both warp and weft, with a monofilament specification of 36D / 20F. The main fiber of each monofilament is nylon 66 resin synthesized by the polycondensation reaction of hexamethylenediamine and adipic acid. This resin constitutes the polymer skeleton of the monofilament, with nylon 66 resin accounting for 97.5% of the total mass within the monofilament. During the spinning polymerization stage, a modified auxiliary component, accounting for 2.5% of the total mass, is simultaneously mixed into the main resin. The modified component mass ratio is as follows: The fabric consists of 1.2% polyether-type hydrophilic modified monomer, 0.8% long-lasting antistatic masterbatch, and 0.5% organosilicon softening modifier. The greige fabric is woven using a standard plain weave machine with a warp density of 161 threads / in and a weft density of 159 threads / in. The finished greige fabric has a width of 162.8 cm and a weight of 54.8 g / m². The warp shrinkage rate is 3% and the weft shrinkage rate is 8%. The greige fabric is not coated or laminated with a waterproof film throughout the entire process, and all functional properties are provided solely by the subsequent complete dyeing and finishing process.

[0015] The specific processing steps are as follows: Step 1, Fabric splicing: The ends of the woven roll of modified nylon 66 fabric are continuously sewn together with special sewing thread to ensure that the seams are flat and without curling edges. The splicing equipment runs at a speed of 70m / min. After splicing, the long roll of fabric is stored in a sealed box-type fabric stacking container to prevent local creases from being caused by air drying, which would affect the uniformity of subsequent dyeing. Step 2, Enhanced Chelating Low-Temperature Degreasing: The treatment solution is prepared strictly according to the following ratio: 10% sodium hydroxide, 2% organometallic chelating agent, 1.2% fatty alcohol penetrant, 1.5% nylon-specific dispersant and degreasing agent, and the remainder is deionized water; the padding equipment adopts a one-dip-one-pinch mode, with a stable padding rate of 70%. The soaked fabric is sent to a closed fabric storage silo and stored at room temperature for 24 hours. The fabric is kept completely wet throughout the storage process, and the unit operates at a speed of 50m / min. Step 3, Desizing and Drying: After the greige fabric has been stacked for a period of time, it is fed into a six-cell multi-stage washing machine to completely remove the weaving sizing and attached oil stains. After washing, it is connected to a segmented drying oven for drying. The speed of the drying machine is 50m / min. The dried semi-finished products are stacked and stored in boxes. Step 4, semi-finished product weighing and testing: three pieces of dried fabric with a size of 1㎡ were randomly selected and weighed using a precision electronic balance. The average weight was calculated to be 54.8g / m². The data was recorded for automatic matching of the setting speed in the later stage. Step 5, Synchronous dyeing and wrinkling process: Add 4% owf neutral acid dye and 5g / L leveling and wrinkle-promoting compound auxiliary agent to the dyeing bath, and adjust the pH of the bath solution to 5.0 with acetic acid; put the fabric into the machine at room temperature, and heat it up to 98℃ at a uniform speed and keep it at that temperature for 40 minutes. The dyeing and three-dimensional embossed wrinkle formation are completed simultaneously during the heating and holding stages, without the need for a separate wrinkling process. Step 6, spreading the fabric: After dyeing, the wrinkled fabric is fed into the spreading and spreading machine. The arc-shaped spreading roller flattens the local dead wrinkles. The machine runs at a speed of 70m / min. Step 7, loose segmented drying: The six drying ovens are uniformly set at 130℃, with tension-free loose conveyor drying, and the unit speed is 45m / min. After drying, the fabric is stored in a box. Step 8, Online Inspection of Semi-finished Products: The dried fabric is continuously conveyed to the inspection station, and the instrument collects the weight and air permeability data in real time and transmits them to the control system of the setting unit; Step 9: Waterproofing, stain removal, antistatic and three-effect simultaneous bath shaping and finishing: Select C6 low fluoride optimized ratio agent, one dip and one roll, roll-up rate 70%, shaping oven 2-8 section temperature 185℃, production line speed 60m / min, the system automatically fine-tunes the speed according to the front end air permeability data, and after shaping, saddle-type suspended storage. Step 10, First front-side multi-pass calendering: Nylon calendering rollers perform two consecutive calendering passes, with a reference roller temperature of 165℃ and a roller pressure of 45t; for light-colored fabrics, the roller temperature is increased by 5℃ to 170℃ and the roller pressure is increased by 5t to 50t, and the fabric is then saddle-shaped for storage after processing. Step 11, intermediate stress release and shaping: The shaping oven temperature is 170℃, the machine speed is 50m / min, and the internal stress of the fibers generated by calendering is released. The fabric is conveyed with the front side facing the calendering roller. Step 12, Second front single-pass calendering: Base roller temperature 160℃, roller pressure 38t; for light-colored fabrics, increase roller temperature by 5℃ and roller pressure by 5t. Step 13, Third front single-pass calendering: Base roller temperature 155℃, roller pressure 32t; for light-colored fabrics, increase roller temperature by 5℃ and roller pressure by 5t. Step 14, Comprehensive Inspection of Finished Product: After three calendering processes, online inspection is conducted to control the finished product weight to a stable 62g / m². Simultaneously, all quantitative indicators such as breathability, waterproofing, stain removal, antistatic properties, color difference, and wrinkles are tested.

[0016] Example 2: This example provides a fluorine-free environmentally friendly special fabric, wherein the raw materials, monofilament modification ratio, weaving density, fabric width, weight, and shrinkage parameters are all consistent with those in Example 1, and there is no coating or composite waterproof film.

[0017] The specific processing steps are as follows: All reagents, temperatures, vehicle speeds, and calendering temperature and pressure parameters in steps 1 to 8 and steps 10 to 14 are completely consistent with those in Example 1. Only the reagents and temperature and vehicle speed parameters in step 9 are adjusted.

[0018] Step 9: Waterproofing, stain removal, antistatic, and three-in-one finishing and shaping: Replace with fluorine-free environmentally friendly finishing liquid, with the following ratio: 6% bio-based fluorine-free hydrophobic agent, 3.5% plant-based detergent, 2% cationic antistatic agent, 1% silicone penetrant, 1.2% low-temperature crosslinking agent, and the remainder deionized water; one dip and one roll, with a roll-up rate of 70%, setting oven section 2-8 at 170℃, production line speed at 55m / min, and the air permeability closed-loop control logic remains unchanged. After shaping, the fabric is saddle-shaped and stored.

[0019] The remaining steps and process parameters are performed exactly as described in Example 1.

[0020] Example 3 provides an economical and affordable fabric in which the modified nylon 66 monofilament specifications, polymer modification components, and weaving parameters are completely consistent with those of Example 1, and there is no coating or composite film.

[0021] The specific processing steps are as follows: All reagents, temperatures, vehicle speeds, and pressure parameters in steps 1 to 8 are completely consistent with those in Example 1.

[0022] Step 9: Waterproofing, stain removal, antistatic, and three-in-one bath finishing: Select a C6 low-fluorine preferred formula, 185℃, speed 60m / min, process parameters are the same as in Example 1.

[0023] Step 10, First front multi-pass calendering: Reference temperature 165℃, 45t, light color temperature and pressure adjustment, operation is the same as in Example 1.

[0024] Step 11, intermediate stress release and shaping: 170℃, vehicle speed 50m / min, operation is the same as in Example 1.

[0025] After the finalization in step 11 is completed, the product is directly sent to the finished product inspection station.

[0026] Compared to traditional segmented dyeing and finishing processes, traditional fabrics use ordinary nylon 6636D / 20F plain weave fabric that has not undergone spinning modification. Each monofilament fiber is mainly composed of nylon 66 resin, and no polyether hydrophilic monomers, antistatic masterbatches, or silicone softeners are added during the spinning stage. The weaving density is 161 warp threads / in, the weft density is 159 warp threads / in, the fabric width is 162.8cm, the fabric weight is 54.8g / m², the warp shrinkage is 3%, the weft shrinkage is 8%, and there is no coating or composite film.

[0027] The specific processing steps are as follows: Process 1: Ordinary single alkali agent room temperature stacking degreasing: The treatment solution contains only 8% sodium hydroxide, without chelating agent, dispersing degreasing agent, penetrant, and the remainder is tap water; one dip and one nibble, with a nibble rate of 70%; open room temperature stacking for 12 hours, without a moisturizing sealed chamber, machine speed of 50m / min, and local air drying of the fabric. Process 2, washing, desizing and drying: three-stage ambient temperature washing, no high-temperature cleaning section; drying oven at a constant temperature of 120℃, unit speed 50m / min, box-type storage; Step 3, High-temperature dyeing alone: ​​The dyeing bath is only added with 3% owf acid dye, without leveling and wrinkle-promoting agents, and the pH is adjusted to 6.0 with acetic acid; the temperature is raised to 100℃ and kept at 30 minutes. Dyeing alone cannot simultaneously form three-dimensional wrinkles. Step 4: Independent hot pressing and pleating of rope-shaped fabrics: The dyed semi-finished products are fed into the rope-shaped pleating machine, with a roller temperature of 180℃, a roller pressure of 28t, and a machine speed of 40m / min. The pleats are uneven in depth. Step 5, multi-stage cold water washing: four cold water washes to remove wrinkled and flaked dye, with a machine speed of 60m / min; Step 6, Independent Pre-drying: Oven 130℃, machine speed 45m / min, box-type storage; Step 7, Separate high-fluoride waterproofing and setting: The finishing liquid contains 6% traditional high-fluoride waterproofing agent and 1% penetrant, without epoxy crosslinking agent; one dip and one roll, 70% of the liquid is rolled, oven temperature is 175℃, machine speed is 58m / min, and it is processed by an independent setting machine; Step 8, Separate Easy-to-Clean Setting: The finishing solution contains only 5% easy-to-clean agents and has no antistatic or cross-linking components; the oven is set at 175℃, the machine speed is 58m / min, and it is a second independent high-temperature baking process. Step 9, Separate Antistatic Setting: The finishing solution contains 2.5% ordinary cationic antistatic agent, without hydrophobic or detergency agents; oven temperature 175℃, machine speed 58m / min, third independent setting; Process 10: Two-stage non-gradient conventional calendering, without intermediate stress setting: First calendering roller temperature 162℃, roller pressure 40t per pass; No intermediate setting, directly proceed to the second calendering, roller temperature 158℃, roller pressure 35t per pass; For light-colored fabrics, the entire set of roller temperature is increased by 8℃ and roller pressure is increased by 6t, which must be produced on separate lines. Process 11, Manual Finished Product Inspection: There is no online air permeability and weight testing equipment; only manual visual inspection is performed, and there is no closed-loop air permeability control system.

[0028] Table 1 shows a comprehensive comparison of the industrial application of Examples 1-3 with traditional process fabrics.

[0029] Table 1. Comprehensive Comparison of Industrial Applications of Fabrics Monitoring indicators Example 1: C6 Full-Process Fabric Example 2: Fluorine-free environmentally friendly fabric Example 3: Simplified Calendered Fabric Comparison of traditional fabric processing techniques Finished product air permeability (CC / s) 5.1 5.0 6.0 7.3~11.8 Oil stain removal rate at 60℃ high-temperature aged oil (%) 100 100 100 60 Surface electrostatic decay half-life (s) 0.40 0.44 0.59 1.78 Dry rubbing color difference ΔE 1.2 1.3 1.8 3.2 wet friction color difference ΔE 1.5 1.5 2.0 3.8 Percentage of wrinkles and dents remaining after 50 standard water washes (%) 94.7 93.9 82.3 31.6 The ability to continuously process light and dark colored fabrics on the same line feasible feasible feasible Not feasible Relative overall production energy consumption (Example 1 baseline = 100%) 100 92 95 130 Relative overall processing cost (Example 1 baseline = 100%) 100 103 88 115 Organize pharmaceutical system types C6 low-fluorine compound system Bio-based fluorine-free low-temperature system C6 low-fluorine compound system Traditional high-fluorine single-component Product Market Adaptation and Positioning Down jackets, outdoor windproof jackets Eco-friendly clothing Affordable down fabric Ordinary woven garments Table 1 compares the four processes from three macro dimensions: industrial mass production, end-use performance, and production cost. All data are objective quantitative values ​​measured by instruments and do not contain any scoring or rating indicators. This table provides a direct comparison of the industrialization advantages and disadvantages of the four processes. Example 1 uses a complete three-stage gradient calendering process with a C6 compound agent, achieving optimal oil stain removal rate, static electricity dissipation speed, rubbing color fastness, and wash wrinkle durability. Dark and light-colored fabrics can be processed continuously on the same production line, making it suitable for mass production of high-end outdoor down products. Example 2 replaces the fluorine-free low-temperature finishing system, with finished product performance similar to Example 1, but with lower overall production energy consumption. The agent meets overseas fluorine-free environmental protection standards for textiles, making it specifically for export orders. Example 3 omits the last two gradient calendering processes, significantly reducing processing costs. However, the proportion of wrinkles remaining after multiple washes is significantly reduced, making it only suitable for inexpensive civilian fabrics with low requirements for appearance durability. The comparative example uses a traditional segmented independent dyeing and finishing process, resulting in poor oil stain removal, severe static electricity, large rubbing color difference, and near-complete disappearance of texture after washing. Furthermore, dark and light-colored fabrics must be produced on separate lines, leading to the highest production energy consumption and manufacturing costs, making it only applicable to low-end apparel fabrics.

[0030] Table 2 shows the results of the laboratory testing of the microstructure of the fabric fibers in Examples 1-3 and traditional processes.

[0031] Table 2 Comparison of Laboratory Test Data for Fiber Microstructure Precision Microscopic precision testing projects Standardized testing conditions Measured values ​​in Example 1 Measured values ​​in Example 2 Measured values ​​in Example 3 Comparative measured values Percentage of residual spinning and weaving grease on fiber surface (%) Ether extraction method 0.12 0.13 0.12 0.76 Percentage of surface functional finishing film adhesion quality (%) High-temperature burning weight loss method 2.15 2.08 1.86 0.93 Maximum deviation in gram weight of finished product in a single batch (g / m²) Five random 1㎡ standard samples ±0.4 ±0.5 ±0.6 ±2.1 Average weight of raw materials before fabric processing (g / m²) Sampling and weighing of dried semi-finished products 54.8 54.8 54.8 54.8 Stable target weight of finished product (g / m²) Inspection after all calendering is completed 62.0 62.0 62.0 No stable control value Fabric warp shrinkage after washing (%) Size test after 50 washes 2.1 2.2 2.5 4.9 Fabric weft-direction washing shrinkage rate (%) Size test after 50 washes 4.3 4.4 4.7 9.2 Percentage of functional membrane residue after 50 water washes relative to the initial membrane thickness (%) Segmented Burn Comparison Test 87.5 81.2 69.4 11.3 Maximum fluctuation difference in breathability value of a single batch of fabric (CC / s) 20 consecutive online samplings 0.28 0.30 0.33 4.51 The relative decrease in surface crystallinity of fabric monofilaments (%) X-ray diffraction detection 18.6 17.9 15.2 2.7 Table 2 contains the original quantitative data on fiber microstructure, batch stability, water washing dimensional stability, and functional agent binding strength obtained by laboratory precision instruments. It significantly expands the microscopic detection indicators, has no classification parameters, and explains the substantial improvements brought about by the process of this invention from the underlying mechanism. It complements the macroscopic performance indicators in Table 1 and has no duplicate testing items.

[0032] This invention employs a spinning modification combined with a synergistic chelating low-temperature degreasing pretreatment to thoroughly remove spinning oil and weaving sizing agents from the fiber surface, resulting in a significantly lower residual oil content compared to traditional processes. A three-stage gradient calendering process, coupled with a co-bath crosslinking agent, substantially enhances the adhesion of the functional film. Even after 50 washes, approximately 80% of the finished film remains, significantly improving wash resistance and durability. A matching online closed-loop breathability control system ensures minimal variation in breathability between batches, and high precision in controlling finished weight and warp and weft shrinkage rates after washing. A dedicated leveling and wrinkle-inducing agent reduces the crystallinity of nylon 66 monofilaments, enhancing the adsorption capacity of dyes and functional agents. In contrast, without fiber modification, synergistic pretreatment, or gradient calendering, the comparative process resulted in high residual oil on the fiber surface, extremely low functional film adhesion, significant agent detachment after washing, severe fabric shrinkage, large variations in breathability between batches, and poor batch consistency. Microscopic testing data fully demonstrates the unexpectedly superior technical effects of this invention's process.

[0033] Of course, the above description is not limited to the examples above. Technical features not described in this invention can be implemented by or using existing technology, and will not be repeated here. The above embodiments and drawings are only used to illustrate the technical solutions of this invention and are not intended to limit this invention. This invention has been described in detail with reference to preferred embodiments. Those skilled in the art should understand that any changes, modifications, additions or substitutions made by those skilled in the art within the scope of this invention do not depart from the spirit of this invention and should also fall within the scope of protection of the claims of this invention.

Claims

1. A multifunctional down jacket fabric, characterized in that, The warp and weft yarns of the fabric are all made of modified nylon 66 matte stretch textured yarn, with a single filament specification of 36D / 20F. The main fiber of each single filament is nylon 66 resin synthesized by polycondensation reaction of hexamethylenediamine and adipic acid. This resin constitutes the polymer skeleton of the single filament, and nylon 66 resin accounts for 97.5% of the total mass in the single filament. During the spinning polymerization stage, 2.5% of the total mass of modified auxiliary components are simultaneously mixed into the main resin. The mass ratio of the modified components is 1.2% polyether-type hydrophilic modified monomer, 0.8% long-lasting antistatic masterbatch, and 0.5% organosilicon softening modifier.

2. The multifunctional down jacket fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, The fabric is woven in a plain weave with an over-under pattern. The fabric has a warp density of 161 threads / in, a weft density of 159 threads / in, a width of 162.8cm, a weight of 54.8g / m², a warp shrinkage of 3%, and a weft shrinkage of 8%.

3. A dyeing and finishing process for the multifunctional down jacket fabric as described in claim 1 or 2, characterized in that, Includes the following steps: Step 1, Fabric splicing: The ends of the woven fabric are continuously sewn together. After splicing, the whole roll of fabric is stored in a box-type fabric stacking container to ensure that the fabric is not stretched or creased. Step 2, Enhanced Chelating Low-Temperature Degreasing: Prepare a special room-temperature degreasing treatment solution with the following mass ratio: sodium hydroxide 10%, organometallic chelating agent 2%, fatty alcohol penetrant 1.2%, nylon-specific dispersing degreasing agent 1.5%, and the remainder deionized water; use a one-dip-one-pick method to completely saturate the fabric with the treatment solution, controlling the pick-up rate at 70%. After saturation, the fabric is placed in a sealed fabric storage silo and stacked at room temperature for 24 hours, keeping the fabric moist and preventing it from drying out during the stacking stage; Step 3, Desizing and Drying: After the fabric is stacked, it is continuously fed into a multi-compartment washing unit for multi-stage washing to fully remove impurities from the weaving sizing material. After washing, it is directly connected to a segmented drying oven for drying. The dried semi-finished fabrics are stored in stacked box-type containers; Step 4: Weighing and testing of semi-finished products: Randomly select three pieces of dried semi-finished fabric with a size of 1㎡, weigh them by unit area, and record the average weight data for subsequent process parameter matching. Step 5, Simultaneous dyeing and wrinkling process: Prepare a special dyeing working bath. Bath components: 1-5% owf of acid dye, 3-6 g / L of leveling and wrinkle-promoting composite auxiliary agent. Use acetic acid to slowly adjust the pH of the bath to 4.5-5.

5. The leveling and wrinkle-promoting composite auxiliary agent is composed of fatty alcohol polyoxyethylene ether, polyamide softener, and polyethylene glycol wrinkle-promoting components in a fixed ratio. Put the fabric into the dyeing machine at room temperature and heat it to 98℃ at a uniform speed for 40 minutes. Step 6, Spreading out the fabric: After dyeing and wrinkling, the fabric with natural wrinkles is fed into the spreading machine. The spreading rollers pull the fabric out at a uniform speed to eliminate local dead wrinkles. Step 7, Loose-type segmented drying: After the fabric is laid flat, it is sent into six independent segmented drying ovens for loose-type drying. All six drying ovens are set to a uniform drying temperature of 130℃. The drying unit operates at a speed of 45m / min. After drying, the fabric is stored in box-type containers. Step 8, Online Inspection of Semi-finished Products: The dried fabric is continuously conveyed to the online inspection station. The equipment collects two sets of data in real time: the unit weight of the fabric and the basic air permeability value. The data is transmitted to the back-end setting unit control system in real time for automatic adjustment of the setting speed. Step 9: Waterproof, stain-removing, anti-static, and three-in-one bath finishing: Set up two sets of finishing agents that can be switched freely. Both sets of agents use a one-dip-one-pick-pick process, with the pick-up rate controlled between 60% and 80%. After finishing, the fabric is stored in a saddle-type fabric rack. Step 10, First front-side multi-pass calendering: Use pure nylon calendering rollers to perform two consecutive calendering processes on the front side of the fabric; the reference roller temperature of the calender is 165℃, and the roller pressure is 45t; when processing light-colored blanks, the overall roller temperature is increased by 5℃, and the roller pressure is increased by 5t simultaneously; after calendering, the fabric is saddle-shaped and stored. Step 11, intermediate stress release and setting: The semi-finished fabric after the initial calendering is sent to the setting unit to eliminate the internal compressive stress of the fibers; the temperature of the setting oven from the 2nd to the 8th section is 170℃, the unit runs at a speed of 50m / min, the fabric is conveyed with the front side facing the calendering roller, and the finished product is saddle-type stored. Step 12, Second front single-pass calendering: Continue to use nylon calendering rollers to perform a single front calendering operation, with a reference roller temperature of 160℃ and a roller pressure of 38t; for light-colored fabrics, simultaneously increase the roller temperature by 5℃ and the roller pressure by 5t. Step 13, Third front single-pass calendering: Nylon calendering roller performs single front fine calendering, with a reference roller temperature of 155℃ and a roller pressure of 32t; for light-colored fabrics, the roller temperature is simultaneously increased by 5℃ and the roller pressure is increased by 5t. Step 14, Comprehensive Inspection of Finished Products: After all three calendering processes are completed, the finished product is transported to the finished product inspection station for continuous testing of fabric weight. The weight per unit area of ​​the finished product is controlled at 62g / m². At the same time, the breathability, waterproofness, stain resistance, antistatic properties, color difference, and wrinkle index are tested.

4. The dyeing and finishing process for the multifunctional down jacket fabric according to claim 3, characterized in that, In step 9, the mass ratio of the first set of C6 low-fluorine high-performance finishing liquid is as follows: C6 low-fluorine waterproofing agent 3%-7%, stain remover 2%-6%, nonionic antistatic agent 1%-3%, silicone penetrant 0.5%-1.5%, epoxy crosslinking agent 0.5%-1.5%, and the balance being deionized water; the preferred intermediate ratio is C6 low-fluorine waterproofing agent 5%, stain remover 4%, nonionic antistatic agent 2%, silicone penetrant 1%, and epoxy crosslinking agent 1%; the temperature of the oven from section 2 to section 8 is uniformly set at 185℃, and the production line operating speed is 60m / min.

5. The dyeing and finishing process for the multifunctional down jacket fabric according to claim 3, characterized in that, In step 9, the mass ratio of the second set of fluorine-free environmentally friendly finishing liquid is as follows: 6% bio-based fluorine-free hydrophobic agent, 3.5% plant-based detergent, 2% cationic antistatic agent, 1% organosilicon penetrant, 1.2% low-temperature crosslinking agent, and the remainder is deionized water; the temperature of the oven from section 2 to section 8 is uniformly set at 170℃, and the production line operating speed is 55m / min.

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