Dihydromyricetin and polar oils

Abstract

Cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations characterized by a content of a) Dihydromyricetin and b) are characterized by one or more polar oils. b) are characterized by one or more polar oils.

Description

[0001] The present invention relates to cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing active ingredients for the care and protection of the skin, in particular sensitive skin and, most particularly, skin aged or aging due to intrinsic and / or extrinsic factors, as well as the use of such active ingredients and combinations of such active ingredients in the field of cosmetic and dermatological skin care.

[0002] More specifically, the invention relates to the use of such active ingredients and combinations of such active ingredients as epigenetic agents. In particular, their use for the partial or complete restoration of the juvenile epigenome.

[0003] Epigenetic refers to all processes in a cell that are considered "additional" to the content and processes of genetics. In 1942, when the structure of DNA was still unknown, epigenetics was (for the first time) referred to as "the branch of biology which studies the causal interactions between genes and their products which bring the phenotype into being."

[0004] To distinguish it from the more general concept of gene regulation, today's definitions are usually more specific, for example: "The term 'epigenetics' defines all meiotically and mitotically inheritable changes in gene expression that are not encoded in the DNA sequence itself.

[0005] Epigenetic processes can involve the blocking of gene expression. The blocked gene is not lost during cell division or inheritance, but merely inactive and can be reactivated with the help of suitable tools.

[0006] Cosmetic skin care primarily means strengthening or restoring the skin's natural function as a barrier against environmental influences (e.g. dirt, chemicals, microorganisms) and against the loss of the body's own substances (e.g. water, natural fats, electrolytes).

[0007] If this function is disrupted, it can lead to increased absorption of toxic or allergenic substances or to infestation by microorganisms and, as a result, to toxic or allergic skin reactions.

[0008] Another goal of skin care is to compensate for the loss of oil and water from the skin caused by daily washing. This is especially important when the skin's natural regenerative capacity is insufficient. Skin care products should also protect against environmental influences, especially sun and wind, and delay skin aging.

[0009] Chronological skin aging, for example, is caused by endogenous, genetically determined factors. Age-related structural damage and functional disorders in the epidermis and dermis, which can also be referred to as "senile xerosis," occur as follows: a) Dryness, roughness and formation of dryness wrinkles, b) Itching and c) reduced re-fatting by sebaceous glands (e.g. after washing).

[0010] Exogenous factors, such as UV light and chemical toxins, can have a cumulative effect and, for example, accelerate or complement endogenous aging processes. In the epidermis and dermis, exogenous factors in particular can lead to the following structural damage and functional disorders in the skin, which exceed the extent and quality of damage caused by chronological aging: d) Visible vascular dilation (telangiectasia, cuperosis); e) flaccidity and formation of wrinkles; f) local hyper-, hypo- and dyspigmentation (e.g. age spots) and g) increased susceptibility to mechanical stress (e.g. cracking).

[0011] The present invention relates in particular to products for the care of naturally aged skin, as well as for the treatment of the consequences of photoaging, in particular the phenomena listed under a) to g).

[0012] Products for the care of aging skin are well known. They contain, for example, retinoids (vitamin A acid and / or its derivatives) or vitamin A and / or its derivatives. However, their effect on structural damage is limited. Furthermore, product development presents considerable difficulties in adequately stabilizing the active ingredients against oxidative degradation. Furthermore, the use of products containing vitamin A acid often causes severe erythematous skin irritation. Retinoids can therefore only be used in low concentrations.

[0013] Epigenetics is a relatively new field of research in the life sciences that has attracted considerable attention in recent years. This is not surprising, as epigenetics investigates how environmental factors affect our bodies. The focus is less on further descriptive analysis of the morphological changes described above, but rather on understanding the underlying molecular biological regulatory mechanisms. In contrast to classical genetics, epigenetics does not deal with changes in the primary DNA sequence, but rather with the mechanisms of gene regulation. Epigenetics acts as a link between the environment and the genome.

[0014] One of the best-described components of epigenetics is DNA methylation. DNA methylation is a modification of DNA that, in mammals, usually occurs symmetrically on both DNA strands at the C5 position of cytosine nucleotides when they are located 5' adjacent to guanosine nucleotides (CpG) [Bird, 202]. The high mutational potential of methylated cytosine nucleotides results in a very low proportion of CpG dinucleotides relative to the entire genome. Hydrolytic deamination of methylated cytosine spontaneously leads to the formation of thymine, resulting in TG mismatch. In comparison, the deamination of an unmethylated cytosine to uracil occurs much more slowly and the repair of the resulting UG mismatch is much more efficient, since uracil is not a naturally occurring base in DNA [Coulondre et al., 1978; Jurkowska et al., 2010].

[0015] Despite the high mutation rate, there are some CG-rich DNA segments in the genome, known as CpG islands. These short DNA segments are defined as 0.5–4 kb long regions whose ratio of actual to expected CG content is greater than 0.65 [Takai and Jones, 2002]. Approximately 70% of all promoters in the human genome are associated with such CpG islands [Saxonov et al., 2006]. There, they are usually unmethylated, which correlates with the transcriptional expression of the corresponding gene. However, some biological processes are also known in which the methylation of a CpG island leads to the silencing of specific genes. Examples include the inactivation of the X chromosome and germline and tissue-specific genes [Bird, 2002, Avner and Heard, 2001, Bird, 1986]. This highlights the fundamental role of DNA methylation in regulating gene expression and determining cell identity.

[0016] However, methylation is much more frequently found in regions distant from the promoter, such as repetitive sequences or parasitic sequences, where methylation prevents transcription of these sequences and thus contributes to genome integrity [Yoder et al., 1997, Walsh et al., 1998]. Overall, approximately 3–5% of cytosines in genomic DNA are methylated, which ultimately means that approximately 80% of all CpG loci in the genome are methylated [Ehrlich et al., 1982, Gama-Sosa et al., 1983].

[0017] Compared to DNA methylation in healthy cells, numerous studies have demonstrated that the DNA methylation pattern in malignant cancer cells is often altered. For example, a global decrease in genome methylation (hypomethylation) has been observed in cancerous tissue, primarily due to a reduction in the methylation level in repetitive elements [Ehrlich, 2002]. This hypomethylation can cause the reactivation of these transposing elements [Yoder et al., 1997, Wash et al., 1998] and thus negatively impacts genomic integrity [Gaudet, 2003]. In parallel with global hypomethylation, hypermethylation of CpG islands associated with the promoter region of genes has also been observed [Herman and Baylin, 2000, Jones and Baylin, 2007]. This hypermethylation is often accompanied by transcriptional inactivation of the gene.

[0018] Since tumor suppressor genes, among others, are affected by this hypermethylation, dysregulation of important cellular mechanisms occurs. To distinguish such epigenetic changes from classic genetic mutations, they are referred to as "epimutations" [Jeggo and Holliday, 1986].

[0019] Even beyond cancer research, it has become increasingly clear in recent years that epigenetics is just as important for the development of a healthy organism as DNA itself. Scientific studies have also revealed that the epigenome—the totality of all epigenetic modifications—can be altered much more easily by external influences than the genes themselves. Epigenetically active molecules act as mediators between the environment and the genetic material. It has been clearly demonstrated that external factors can switch genes on or off, thus triggering phenotypic changes and / or diseases (Jaenisch & Bird, 2003; Bird et al. 2007; Reik, 2007; Feinberg, 2008). Recent studies have also shown that epigenetic changes—particularly in DNA methylation patterns—also occur during aging (Fraga et al. 2005; Esteller et al. 2012; Winnefeld & Lyko 2012).

[0020] It has also been shown that epigenetic changes (hypermethylation) can also be observed during skin aging (Grönniger et al., 2010), which leads to a “silencing” of skin-relevant genes.

[0021] In order to improve the condition of the skin, it is therefore desirable to reverse epigenetic changes - which occur either with age or in certain skin conditions - in order to reactivate the skin-relevant genes.

[0022] However, to date only a limited number of substances are known that have DNA demethylating activity.

[0023] In this context, the substance dihydromyricetin demonstrated an inhibitory effect on DNA methyltransferase 1. This enzyme is responsible for the methylation of CpGs in the genome and thus for maintaining the cell's specific methylation pattern. The resulting epigenetic activity of the drug was demonstrated by the modification of the methylation pattern in skin samples after dihydromyricetin treatment (EPIC analysis). Furthermore, the use of dihydromyricetin was able to increase the expression of age-dependent hypermethylated genes. Since DHM inhibits methyltransferase, wouldn't it lead to hypomethylated genes instead of hypermethylated ones?

[0024] Dihydromyricetin (or (+)-dihydromyricetin; ampelopsin; (2R,3R)-3,5,7-trihydroxy-2-(3,4,5-trihydroxyphenyl)chroman-4-one) is characterized by the following structure:

[0025] JP 63316711 discloses the use of dihydromyricetin as a skin-lightening agent. Furthermore, FR 2868701 discloses the use of dihydromyricetin as an anti-cellulite agent, as it influences fat storage in fat cells. Furthermore, DE 10 2009 055 916 describes the use of dihydromyricetin to increase dermal collagen synthesis and for the treatment and prevention of the symptoms of intrinsic and / or extrinsic skin aging.

[0026] However, dihydromyricetin in cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations tends to decompose during storage or upon exposure to heat and oxygen. This decomposition can manifest itself in discoloration, crystal formation, and degradation of the active ingredient.

[0027] This problem can be counteracted, and the present invention consists in combining dihydromyricetin with one or more polar oils.

[0028] This use is advantageously carried out in topical preparations, in particular cosmetic or dermatological preparations.

[0029] In the context of the present disclosure, the term "lipids" is occasionally used as a generic term for fats, oils, waxes, and the like, as is well known to those skilled in the art. The terms "oil phase" and "lipid phase" are also used synonymously.

[0030] Oils and fats differ, among other things, in their polarity, which is difficult to define. It has already been proposed to use the interfacial tension with water as a measure of the polarity index of an oil or oil phase. The lower the interfacial tension between this oil phase and water, the greater the polarity of the oil phase in question. According to the invention, the interfacial tension is considered a possible measure of the polarity of a given oil component.

[0031] Interfacial tension is the force acting on an imaginary one-meter-long line at the interface between two phases. The physical unit for this interfacial tension is classically calculated using the force / length relationship and is usually expressed in mN / m (millinewtons divided by meters). It has a positive sign if it tends to reduce the interface. Conversely, it has a negative sign. Lipids whose interfacial tension against water is less than 30 mN / m are considered polar within the meaning of the present invention.

[0032] Polar oils include, for example, those from the group of lecithins and fatty acid triglycerides, namely the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18, carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can advantageously be selected, for example, from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic, and natural oils, such as olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, grape seed oil, safflower oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil, and the like.

[0033] The total amount of such lecithins and fatty acid triglycerides in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations is advantageously selected from the range up to 50% by weight, preferably 0.5 - 15.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.

[0034] Further polar oil components can be selected from the group of esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms as well as from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms.Such ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol CC) and cocoglycerides (Myritol 331), butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate and dibutyl adipate as well as synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, such as jojoba oil.

[0035] The total amount of such esters in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations is advantageously selected from the range up to 50% by weight, preferably 0.5 - 15.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.

[0036] Furthermore, the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols. It is particularly advantageous if the oil phase of the W / O emulsions according to the invention contains C 12-15 -alkyl benzoate or consists entirely of it.

[0037] The total amount of dialkyl ethers in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations is advantageously selected from the range up to 50% by weight, preferably 0.5 - 15.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.

[0038] Furthermore, the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of Guerbet alcohols. Guerbet alcohols are named after Marcel Guerbet, who first described their production. They are formed according to the reaction equation: oxidation of an alcohol to an aldehyde, aldol condensation of the aldehyde, elimination of water from the aldol, and hydrogenation of the allyl aldehyde. Guerbet alcohols are liquid even at low temperatures and cause virtually no skin irritation. They can be advantageously used as lubricating, superfatting, and refatting ingredients in skin and hair care products.

[0039] The use of Guerbet alcohols in cosmetics is well known. Such species are usually characterized by their structure, with R1 and R2 usually being unbranched alkyl residues.

[0040] According to the invention, the Guerbet alcohol(s) are advantageously selected from the group in which R1 = Propyl, Butyl, Pentyl, Hexyl, Heptyl or Octyl and R2 = Hexyl, Heptyl, Octyl, Nonyl, Decyl, Undecyl, Dodecyl, Tridecyl or Tetradecyl.

[0041] Preferred Guerbet alcohols according to the invention are 2-butyloctanol - it has the chemical structure and is available, for example, under the trade name Isofol □ 12 is available from Condea Chemie GmbH - and 2-hexyldecanol - it has the chemical structure and is available, for example, under the trade name Isofol 16 from Condea Chemie GmbH.

[0042] Mixtures of Guerbet alcohols according to the invention can also be used advantageously according to the invention. Mixtures of 2-butyloctanol and 2-hexyldecanol are available, for example, under the trade name Isofol 14 from Condea Chemie GmbH.

[0043] The total amount of Guerbet alcohols in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations is advantageously selected from the range up to 50% by weight, preferably 0.5 - 15.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.

[0044] The total amount of polar oils in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations is advantageously selected from the range up to 60% by weight, preferably 0.5 - 15.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.

[0045] Examples of polar oils which can be used advantageously in the context of the present invention are listed in Table 1: Tabelle 1 Handelsname INCI-Bezeichnung (mN / m) Isofol® 14 T Butyl Decanol + Hexyl Decanol + Hexyl Octanol + Butyl Octanol 27,6 Isofol® 16 Hexyl Decanol 24,3 Eutanol® G Octyldodecanol 24,8 Cetiol® OE Dicaprylyl Ether 22,1 Miglyol® 812 Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride 21,3 Cegesoft® C24 Octyl Palmitate 23,1 Isopropylstearat Isopropyl Stearate 21,9 Estol® 1540 EHC Octyl Octanoate 30,0 Finsolv® TN C 12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 21,8 Cetiol® SN Cetearyl Isonoanoate 28,6 Dermofeel® BGC Butylene Glycol DiCaprylate / DiCaprate 21,5 Trivent® OCG Tricaprylin 20,2 MOD Octyldodeceyl Myristate 22,1 Cosmacol® ETI Di-C 12-13 Alkyl Tartrate 29,4 Miglyol® 829 Caprylic / Capric Diglyceryl Succinate 29,5 Prisorine® 2036 Octyl Isostearate 29,7 Tegosoft® SH Stearyl Heptanoate 28,7 Abil® Wax 9840 Cetyl Dimethicone 25,1 Cetiol® LC Coco-Caprylate / Caprate 24,8 IPP Isopropyl Palmitate 22,5 Luvitol® EHO Cetearyl Octanoate 28,6 Cetiol® 868 Octyl Stearate 28,4

[0046] Cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention preferably contain 0.001 - 10 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.01 - 1 wt.% of dihydromyricetin, based on the total composition of the preparations.

[0047] Emulsions are advantageous dosage forms within the meaning of the present invention, e.g. in the form of a cream, a lotion, a cosmetic milk are advantageous and contain, e.g., fats, oils, waxes and / or other fatty substances, as well as water and one or more emulsifiers, as are usually used for this type of formulation.

[0048] It is particularly advantageous in the sense of the present invention if the water phases of the emulsions according to the invention have pH values ​​of 4 to 6, particularly advantageously of 4.5 to 5.5.

[0049] It is furthermore particularly advantageous in the sense of the present invention if the dihydromyricetin is first dissolved in one or more polyols. Advantageous polyols can be selected from the group: glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol, glycerin, erythritol, arabitol, adonitol, sorbitol, dulcitol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, 2,4-pentanediol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 2,3-dimethyl-2,3-butanediol, 2,2-diethyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 2,2,4-trimethyl-1,3-pentanediol, 2-ethyl-2-butyl-1,3-propanediol, 1,2,4-Butanetriol, 1,2,6-Hexanetriol, 2,2-Dihydroxymethyl-1-butanol, 1,2-Octanediol, Tetramethylolmethane, the mono-methyl ether of glycerin, the mono-n-butyl ether of glycerin, 2-O-beta-D-Glucopyranosyl-L-ascorbic acid, 3(2-Ethylhexyloxy)-1,2-propanediol, 1,2-Hexanediol.

[0050] Particularly advantageous weight ratios of dihydromyricetin to polyol (or the total amount of polyols) are selected from the range of 50:1 to 1:50. The preferred polyol is glycerol.

[0051] A further aspect of the invention, which is characterized by independent inventive step, is a process for incorporating dihydromyricetin into cosmetic or dermatological preparations, characterized in that dihydromyricetin is first dissolved in one or more polyols and this solution is then introduced into components of the oil and / or water phase of a cosmetic or dermatological preparation. This is also independent of whether the cosmetic or dermatological preparation contains polar oils or not.

[0052] Medicinal topical compositions within the meaning of the present invention generally contain one or more medicaments in effective concentrations. For the sake of simplicity, reference is made to the legal provisions of the Federal Republic of Germany (e.g., the Cosmetics Regulation, the Food and Drug Act) to clearly distinguish between cosmetic and medical applications and corresponding products.

[0053] It is also advantageous to add the active ingredient used according to the invention as an additive to preparations which already contain other active ingredients for other purposes.

[0054] If the cosmetic or dermatological preparation within the meaning of the present invention is a solution, emulsion or dispersion, the following can be used as solvents: - Water or aqueous solutions - Oils such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid, but preferably castor oil; - fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fatty substances, preferably esters of fatty acids with low carbon alcohols, e.g. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcohols with low carbon alkanoic acids or with fatty acids; - Alcohols, diols or polyols with a low carbon number, as well as their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogous products.

[0055] In particular, mixtures of the above-mentioned solvents are used. In the case of alcoholic solvents, water may be an additional component.

[0056] It may also be advantageous to add a certain amount of non-polar oils to the preparations according to the invention.

[0057] Nonpolar oils include, for example, those selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, especially petrolatum (petrolatum), liquid paraffin, squalane and squalene, polyolefins, and hydrogenated polyisobutenes. Among the polyolefins, polydecenes are the preferred substances. Table 1 below lists lipids that are advantageous according to the invention, either individually or in mixtures. The corresponding interfacial tensions with water are given in the last column. However, it is also advantageous to use mixtures of higher and lower polarity lipids, and the like.

[0058] Fat and / or wax components to be used additionally according to the invention can be selected from the group of vegetable waxes, animal waxes, mineral waxes, and petrochemical waxes. Examples of suitable components according to the invention are candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japan wax, esparto grass wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, sugar cane wax, berry wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, jojoba wax, shea butter, beeswax, shellac wax, spermaceti, lanolin (wool wax), ceresin, ozokerite (petroleum wax), paraffin waxes, and microwaxes, provided the conditions required in the main claim are met.

[0059] Other advantageous fat and / or wax components are chemically modified waxes and synthetic waxes, such as those sold under the trade names Syncrowax HRC (Glyceryl Tribehenate) and Syncrowax AW 1C (C 18-36-fatty acid) available from CRODA GmbH as well as montan ester waxes, sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes, synthetic or modified beeswaxes (e.g. dimethicone copolyol beeswax and / or C 30-50 -Alkyl beeswax), polyalkylene waxes, polyethylene glycol waxes, but also chemically modified fats, such as hydrogenated vegetable oils (e.g. hydrogenated castor oil and / or hydrogenated coconut fatty glycerides), triglycerides, such as trihydroxystearin, fatty acids, fatty acid esters and glycol esters, such as C 20-40 -Alkyl stearate, C 20-40 -Alkylhydroxystearoyl stearate and / or glycol montanate. Certain organosilicon compounds that have similar physical properties to the aforementioned fatty and / or wax components, such as stearoxytrimethylsilane, are also advantageous, provided the conditions required in the main claim are met.

[0060] According to the invention, the fat and / or wax components can be present either individually or in a mixture.

[0061] The following recipe examples are intended to illustrate the present invention. Unless otherwise stated, the numerical values ​​refer to percentages by weight. Recipe examples Inhaltsstoff 1 2 3 4 5 Dihydromyricetin 0.15 0.15 0.05 0.20 0.10 Sodium Hyaluronate 0 0 0.20 0.20 0.30 Ricinusöl 8.00 0 0 4 2 Dibutyl Adipate 0 4 2 0 0 Isopropylpalmitate 0 0 0 0 6 Octyldodecanol 0 4 2 0 0 Isopropylstearate 0 0 0 0 0 Cetearyl Isonoanoate 0 0 0 1.00 0 Glyceryl Stearate Citrate 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 1.00 Glyceryl Stearate 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.50 Cetearyl Alcohol 1.75 1.75 1.00 1.00 1.00 Parfum 0.50 0.50 0.50 0 0 Glycerin 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 Butylene Glycol 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 Phenoxyethanol 0.40 0.40 0.40 0.60 0.60 Alcohol Denat. 6.00 6.00 6.00 4.00 4.00 Ethylhexylglycerin 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.10 0.15 Trisodium EDTA 1.00 1.00 0 0 0 Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate 0 0 1.00 1.00 0.50 Xanthan Gum 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.20 Succinoglycan 0.30 0.30 0.10 0.10 0.10 Gellan Gum 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.10 0.10 Sodium Metabisulfite 0.15 0.15 0.05 0.10 0.20 Diethylhexyl Syringylidenemalonate 0.10 0.10 0.15 0.15 0.05 Aqua ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 QUOTES CONTAINED IN THE DESCRIPTION

[0000] This list of documents submitted by the applicant was generated automatically and is included solely for the convenience of the reader. This list is not part of the German patent or utility model application. The DPMA assumes no liability for any errors or omissions. Cited patent literature

[0000] JP 63316711

[0025] FR 2868701

[0025] DE 10 2009 055 916

[0025] Cited non-patent literature

[0000] Coulondre et al., 1978; Jurkowska et al., 2010

[0014] Bird, 2002, Avner and Heard, 2001, Bird, 1986

[0015] Yoder et al., 1997, Walsh et al., 1998

[0016] Herman and Baylin, 2000, Jones and Baylin, 2007

[0017] Jeggo and Holliday, 1986

[0018] Jaenisch & Bird, 2003, Bird et al. 2007

[0019] Reich, 2007; Feinberg, 2008

[0019] Fraga et al. 2005; Esteller et al. 2012; Winnefeld & Lyko 2012

[0019] Grönniger et al., 2010

[0020]

Claims

[1] Cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations which are characterized by a content of a) Dihydromyricetin and b) one or more polar oils. [2] Preparations according to claim 1, characterized by that the polar oil or oils is or are selected from the group of lecithins and fatty acid triglycerides, namely the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 C atoms, preferably selected from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, such as olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, grape seed oil, safflower oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil. [3] Preparations according to claim 1, characterized bythat the polar oil(s) is / are selected from the group of esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms and from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms, particularly advantageously selected from the group of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-Ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol CC) and cocoglycerides (Myritol 331),Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate and Dibutyl Adipate as well as synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, such as jojoba oil. [4] Preparations according to claim 1, characterized by that the polar oil(s) is / are selected from the group of dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols and Guerbet alcohols. [5] Preparations according to one or more of the preceding claims, characterized by that the dihydromyricetin is present in amounts of 0.001 - 10 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.01 - 1 wt.% dihydromyricetin, based on the total composition of the preparations. [6] Preparations according to one or more of the preceding claims, characterized bythat the total amount of polar oils in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations is advantageously selected from the range up to 60% by weight, preferably 0.5 - 15.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations. [7] Preparations according to one or more of the preceding claims, characterized by that they are present as emulsions. [8] Preparations according to claim 7, characterized by that the water phases of the emulsions have pH values ​​of 4 to 6, particularly advantageously of 4.5 to 5.

5. [9] Process for incorporating dihydromyricetin into cosmetic or dermatological preparations, characterized by that dihydromyricetin is first dissolved in one or more polyols and this solution is then introduced into components of the oil and / or water phase of a cosmetic or dermatological preparation. [10] Method according to claim 9, characterized bythat the polyol(s) is / are selected from the group: glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol, glycerin, erythritol, arabitol, adonitol, sorbitol, dulcitol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, 2,4-pentanediol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 2,3-dimethyl-2,3-butanediol, 2,2-diethyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 2,2,4-trimethyl-1,3-pentanediol, 2-ethyl-2-butyl-1,3-propanediol, 1,2,4-Butanetriol, 1,2,6-Hexanetriol, 2,2-Dihydroxymethyl-1-butanol, 1,2-Octanediol, Tetramethylolmethane, the mono-methyl ether of glycerin, the mono-n-butyl ether of glycerin, 2-O-beta-D-Glucopyranosyl-L-ascorbic acid, 3(2-Ethylhexyloxy)-1,2-propanediol, 1,2-Hexanediol. [11] Method according to claim 9 or 10, characterized by that the weight ratio of dihydromyricetin to polyol (or the total amount of polyols) is selected from the range of 50:1 to 1:

50. [12] Cosmetic or dermatological preparations obtainable by a process according to claim 10 or 11.