MOUSSE-LIKE COSMETIC PREPARATION

DE502020009996D1Active Publication Date: 2025-01-02BEIERSDORF AG
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Patent Information

Application Number
DE502020009996
Authority / Receiving Office
DE · DE
Patent Type
Patents
Current Assignee / Owner
Priority Date
2019-03-08
Filing Date
2020-02-17
Publication Date
2025-01-02
Estimated Expiration
2040-02-17

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Conventional cosmetic foams require propellant gases for aerosol containers, leading to instability, increased production costs, and limitations in storage and handling, as well as a non-matt and potentially grainy appearance.

Method used

A cosmetic emulsion containing sodium carboxymethyl starch and water, with a weight ratio of water to sodium carboxymethyl starch between 20:1 and 160:1, which forms stable mousse-like or foam structures without propellants, maintaining stability for 30 days and achieving a matt, non-grainy appearance.

Benefits of technology

The emulsion provides stable, long-lasting foam structures without propellant gases, ensuring ease of packaging and a uniform, fine-pored bubble size, while maintaining a matt appearance and feeling light and creamy on the skin.

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Description

[0001] Cosmetic products generally serve not only to make people look beautiful and attractive, but also contribute significantly to increased self-esteem and well-being. Accordingly, a wide variety of cosmetic products are used for the daily cleansing and care of human skin.

[0002] Conventional cosmetic products often come in solid, powder, liquid gel, or cream form. In addition to these familiar product forms, foamed cosmetic preparations are also familiar to those skilled in the art.

[0003] Foams or mousses are structures made up of gas- or air-filled, spherical or polyhedral cells bounded by liquid, semi-liquid, highly viscous, or solid cell walls. The cell walls, connected by so-called nodes, form a coherent framework. Foam lamellae (closed-cell foam) are located between the cell walls. If the foam lamellae are destroyed or flow back into the cell walls at the end of foam formation, an open-cell foam is obtained. Foams are thermodynamically unstable because surface energy can be gained by reducing the surface area. The stability and thus the existence of a foam therefore depends on the extent to which it is possible to prevent its self-destruction.

[0004] Cosmetic foams are typically dispersed systems of liquids and gases, with the liquid acting as the dispersant and the gas as the dispersed substance. Foams made from low-viscosity liquids are temporarily stabilized by surface-active substances (surfactants, foam stabilizers). Due to their large internal surface area, such surfactant foams have a strong adsorption capacity, which is exploited, for example, in cleaning and washing processes. Accordingly, cosmetic foams are used particularly in the areas of cleansing, for example, as shaving foam, and hair care.

[0005] Various methods for producing foamed cosmetic preparations are known in the prior art. Typically, gas is blown into a suitable liquid, or foam formation is achieved by vigorously beating, shaking, spraying, or stirring the liquid in the gas atmosphere, provided that the liquids contain suitable surfactants or other surface-active substances (so-called foaming agents) that, in addition to surface activity, also possess a certain film-forming capacity.

[0006] Foamed cosmetic preparations have the advantage over cream-like or gel-like liquid cosmetic preparations in that they allow for a fine distribution of active ingredients on the skin. Consumers also value this form of cosmetic product because the gas or air inclusions make these products feel particularly light and thus allow for effective distribution. However, cosmetic foams are generally only available through the use of special surfactants for foaming by the consumer or by storing the cosmetic preparation under propellant gas in an aerosol container that dispenses a foamed cosmetic preparation.

[0007] Aerosol products for providing mousse-like / foamed preparations are known to the skilled person, among other things, from WO2013 / 080127 A2. However, these aerosol products have a number of disadvantages: For example, storage under propellant in an aerosol can is often necessary, which prevents sale in an easily handled jar. Foam or mousse can only be created by dispensing from the aerosol can with propellant. The use of propellants in aerosol containers is expensive in production, as an aerosol filling system is required for the propellants, rather than simply filling them into jars. Cosmetic preparations foamed with propellants often have insufficient stability, meaning that the foam or mousse changes with storage time, for example, collapses, making it impossible to foam it in the production facility and then sell it as a foamed cosmetic preparation. Furthermore, mousse-like preparations are often produced under protective gas rather than under atmospheric conditions. This also results in increased production costs.

[0008] PL 229611 B1 describes a process for creating mousse-like structures. For this purpose, sodium bicarbonate is reacted with citric acid in the presence of water, thus introducing CO2 into the formulation. The preparations also contain sodium carboxymethyl starch as a stabilizer.

[0009] CN10792249 A discloses emulsions containing sodium carboxymethyl starch. There is no mention of foam structures.

[0010] WO2017 / 048557 A1 discloses formulations that can be foamed when dispensed with a pump.

[0011] US 2016 / 0368186 A1 discloses foamed packaging materials.

[0012] Redken Blonde Glam Dream Whip is known under Mintel GNPD registration number 932195. This product uses a propellant to dispense and foam a product.

[0013] It is desirable to provide cosmetic preparations that do not have such disadvantages. In particular, it is desirable to provide cosmetic preparations that form mousse-like or foam structures without having to be foamed from an aerosol containing propellant gas. Furthermore, the mousse-like preparations should be particularly stable, so that they retain their appearance even over extended periods of 30 days or more without phase separation or collapse of the preparation. Furthermore, the mousse-like preparations should have a matte, non-glossy appearance and, at the same time, have a minimal graininess.

[0014] Surprisingly, it has now been found that the preparations according to the present invention have mousse-like or foam structures without having to be foamed with propellants from an aerosol container or by stirring in air.

[0015] The present invention relates to a cosmetic emulsion containing a) sodium carboxymethyl starch and b) water; characterized in that the weight ratio of water to sodium carboxymethyl starch is less than 160:1 and more than 20:1.

[0016] The present invention also relates to the use of sodium carboxymethyl starch for forming mousse and / or foam structures in a cosmetic water-containing emulsion, characterized in that the weight ratio of water to sodium carboxymethyl starch is less than 160:1 and more than 20:1.

[0017] Without being bound by theory, it is suspected that the presence of sodium carboxymethyl starch in the emulsion leads to the binding of water by the sodium carboxymethyl starch after the emulsion is prepared. This presumably leads to the formation of air-filled cavities in the preparation.

[0018] It was also surprising that, unlike preparations foamed with propellant gas, the preparations do not increase in volume when the air-filled cavities form. This also surprisingly overcomes another product disadvantage: If a preparation increases in volume over time, it must be packaged in a more voluminous packaging. Instead, a packaging material can be used for the preparation of the present invention that corresponds to the volume of the preparation immediately after production. No additional, unnecessary space needs to be considered for the expansion of the preparation.

[0019] Furthermore, the preparation according to the invention and the mousse or foam structures obtained therefrom differ from foams obtained from a preparation foamed with propellant gas from an aerosol can in that a more uniform, finer-pored bubble size is achieved.

[0020] Where percentages by weight (wt%) are given without reference to a particular composition or specific mixture, these data always refer to the total weight of the cosmetic emulsion.

[0021] If ratios of components / substances / groups of substances are disclosed, these ratios refer to weight ratios of the named components / substances / groups of substances.

[0022] If weight percentage ranges for the components of the cosmetic emulsion are given below, the disclosure of the present application also includes all individual values ​​in steps of 0.1 wt.% within these weight percentage ranges.

[0023] The phrases "according to the invention", "advantageous according to the invention", "advantageous within the meaning of the present invention" etc. always refer in the context of the present disclosure to the emulsion according to the invention and to the use according to the invention.

[0024] Unless otherwise stated, all tests were conducted under standard conditions. The term "standard conditions" refers to 20°C, 1013 hPa, and a relative humidity of 50%.

[0025] When the term skin is used, it preferably refers to human skin.

[0026] It is advantageous according to the invention if the weight ratio of water to sodium carboxymethyl starch is less than 100:1, preferably less than 80:1 and particularly preferably less than 60:1.

[0027] Furthermore, it is advantageous according to the invention if the weight ratio of water to sodium carboxymethyl starch is preferably more than 30:1.

[0028] Consequently, according to the invention, advantageous weight ratios of water to sodium carboxymethyl starch are in the range from 80:1 to 20:1 and particularly preferably from 60:1 to 30:1.

[0029] Surprisingly, it was discovered that the foam or mousse properties can also be influenced by selecting specific weight ratios of water to sodium carboxymethyl starch. The following surprising aspects were observed: When the weight ratio of water to sodium carboxymethyl starch is between 80:1 and 10:1, coarse-bubble mousse / foam structures were found. The most even distribution of air bubbles is achieved at a ratio of 60:1 to 30:1.

[0030] If a water to sodium carboxymethyl starch weight ratio of less than 10:1 is chosen, i.e., with an increasing proportion of sodium carboxymethyl starch compared to water, surprisingly fewer visible air bubbles are obtained in the preparation. Preparations containing a higher proportion of water compared to the proportion of sodium carboxymethyl starch, or a water to carboxymethyl starch weight ratio of more than 10:1, exhibit larger, more clearly visible air bubbles. Accordingly, these preparations produce a much more perceptible foam structure. The preparation is more similar to a mousse, as is known, for example, from food products.

[0031] Other starches, such as tapioca starch, do not show any formation of mousse or foam structures when used alone.

[0032] Thus, it was surprisingly possible to form foam or mousse structures in a cosmetic emulsion without having to actively blow propellant gas into the emulsion or without having to package the emulsion in an aerosol container with propellant gas and dispense it from there.

[0033] Surprisingly, the foam and / or mousse structure of the emulsion according to the invention did not collapse even when stored under normal conditions for 30 days.

[0034] Furthermore, it was surprisingly found that emulsions according to the invention with a weight ratio of water to sodium carboxymethyl starch of less than 50:1, i.e., with a decreasing proportion of water relative to sodium carboxymethyl starch, exhibit a particularly matte surface. This can be analytically verified using a UV / VIS spectrometer with an integrating sphere. It was found that, after irradiation, surprisingly less directional scattering is measurable than in emulsions with a higher water content compared to sodium carboxymethyl starch.

[0035] Furthermore, the emulsions with a weight ratio of water to sodium carboxymethyl starch of 70:1 to 20:1, preferably 60:1 to 30:1, are surprisingly easy to spread and can be easily distributed on the skin. These emulsions feel surprisingly light and creamy. If a higher water content is chosen relative to sodium carboxymethyl starch, the emulsion feels lumpy to gritty on the skin. If a lower weight ratio of water to sodium carboxymethyl starch is chosen, the emulsions were more viscous and difficult to spread on the skin. The light feeling of the mousse-like emulsion was lost.

[0036] The proportion of water in the emulsion according to the invention is from 55 to 90% by weight, preferably from 60 to 80% by weight and particularly preferably from 65 to 75% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0037] The proportion of sodium carboxymethyl starch in the emulsion according to the invention is from 0.5 to 6% by weight, preferably from 1% by weight to 4% by weight and particularly preferably from 1.5 to 3.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0038] The features of the emulsion according to the invention described below relate to the emulsion according to the invention per se, as well as to the first and second advantageous embodiments of the invention.

[0039] Sodium carboxymethyl starch with CAS No. 9063-38-1 has the INCI name sodium carboxymethyl starch. According to the invention, it is preferred if the sodium carboxymethyl starch is based on potato starch. It is particularly preferred that no other starches besides potato starch be used to produce the sodium carboxymethyl starch.

[0040] An example of a sodium carboxymethyl starch based on potato starch according to the invention is known under the trade name COVAGEL from LCW. Other sodium carboxymethyl starches according to the invention can be purchased under the trade names GLYCOLYS from Roquette and VIVASTAR P3500 and VIVASTAR CS INSTANT Powder from JRS Pharma.

[0041] According to the invention, it is generally advantageous if the emulsion does not contain any acrylate-based polymers. Acrylate-based polymers are polymers obtained from homopolymerization or copolymerization with acrylic and / or methacrylic acid. Examples include carbomer or acrylate copolymer. Acrylate-based polymers are often critically discussed in public with regard to their environmental compatibility. Accordingly, cosmetic products containing acrylate-based polymers no longer appeal to all consumer groups. Furthermore, it was surprising to the person skilled in the art that mousse-like structures could be formed by the emulsion according to the invention when the emulsion did not contain any acrylate-based polymers.

[0042] Furthermore, it is advantageous if, in addition to sodium carboxymethyl starch, at least one further polymer based on polysaccharides, with the exception of polysaccharides modified with acrylic acid or methacrylic acid, is present. Such preferred polymers include, among others, polymers based on celluloses, particularly preferably selected from the group consisting of carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, ethylcellulose, methylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose, and methylethylcellulose.

[0043] Further preferred polymers are selected from the group of polymers based on starches, particularly preferably selected from the group of hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, sodium hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate and distarch phosphate.

[0044] Another preferred polymer is xantham gum.

[0045] Other preferred polymers are sclerotium gum, locust bean gum and / or gellan gum.

[0046] It is further preferred if the total proportion of the further polymers based on polysaccharides, with the exception of polysaccharides modified with acrylic acid or methacrylic acid, is from 0.1 to 8 wt.%, preferably 0.2 to 5 wt.%, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0047] It is particularly advantageous if xanthan gum, sclerotium gum, locust bean gum and / or gellan gum are contained in the emulsion in a proportion of 0.05 to 0.5% by weight, the information relating to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0048] Advantageously, the emulsion of the present invention is characterized in that it is an oil-in-water emulsion.

[0049] Furthermore, it is advantageous if the proportion of the oil phase is from 3 to 20 wt.%, preferably from 5 to 18 wt.%, further preferably from 6 to 15 wt.% and particularly preferably from 7 to 12 wt.%, whereby emulsifiers and surfactants are by definition not included in the oil phase and the data refer to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0050] Emulsifiers are all substances listed as "emulsifying agents" in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Thirteenth Edition 2010, (ISBN 1-882621-47-6). Surfactants are all substances listed as "surfactants" in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Thirteenth Edition 2010, (ISBN 1-882621-47-6).

[0051] Furthermore, it is advantageous if the oil phase, or rather the emulsion, contains caprylic / capric triglycerides. If caprylic / capric triglycerides are present in the emulsion, the proportion of caprylic / capric triglycerides is advantageously from 6 to 13 wt.% and preferably from 7.5 to 11 wt.%, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0052] Furthermore, it is advantageous if the oil phase, or rather the emulsion, contains hydrogenated coconut oil (INCI: hydrogenated coco glycerides). If hydrogenated coconut oil is included in the emulsion, the proportion of hydrogenated coconut oil is advantageously between 0.4 and 3% by weight based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0053] Furthermore, it is advantageous for the purposes of the present invention if the emulsion of the present invention contains one or more esters of monohydric alcohols and monocarboxylic acids, wherein the esters have at least 10, preferably at least 15, carbon atoms. Advantageously selected esters of monohydric alcohols and monocarboxylic acids are 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, isotridecyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C 12-15 alkyl benzoate, isopropyl myristate, and isopropyl palmitate.

[0054] Furthermore, it is advantageous for the purposes of the present invention if the emulsion of the present invention contains one or more dialkyl ethers having 12 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably dicaprylyl ether. If the emulsion contains dicaprylyl ether, the proportion of dicaprylyl ether is preferably from 0.5 to 3 wt.%, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0055] Furthermore, the emulsions according to the invention can advantageously contain vegetable oils, such as sunflower oil (Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil), rapeseed oil (Canola Oil), soybean oil (Glycine Soja Oil), olive oil (Olea Europaea Fruit Oil), almond oil (Prunus amygdalus dulcis Oil), avocado oil (Persea Gratissima Oil), walnut oil (Junglans Regia Seed Oil), peach kernel oil (Prunus Persica Kernel Oil), apricot kernel oil (Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil), sesame oil (Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil), camellia oil (Camelia Oleifera / Camelia Sasanqua), evening primrose oil (Oenothera biennis), macadamia nut oil (Macadamia Intergrifolia Seed Oil), safflower oil (Silybum Marianum Seed Oil), wheat germ oil (Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil), palm kernel oil (Elaeis guineensis Kernel Oil), palm oil (Elaeis guineensis Oil), Grape Seed Oil (Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil), Argan Oil (Argania spinosa Seed Oil), Peanut Oil (Arachis hypogaea Oil), Pumpkin Seed Oil (Cucurbita Pepo Seed Oil), Castor Oil (Ricinus Communis Seed Oil), Rice Germ Oil (Oryza Sativa Bran Oil),Vegetable Oil (Olus Oil) and / or coconut oil.

[0056] It is also advantageous if the emulsion of the present invention contains one or more branched and / or unbranched hydrocarbons, provided they are not gaseous under normal conditions. Hydrocarbons advantageously used are liquid paraffin, isododecane, isohexadecane, isoeicosane, squalane, and microcrystalline wax.

[0057] Advantageously, the emulsion of the present invention contains at least one emulsifier.

[0058] Among the known emulsifiers, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate citrate, polyglyceryl-10 stearate, and / or fatty acids containing 14 to 22 carbon atoms and / or their salts are preferred. In particular, the use of polyglyceryl-10 stearate and / or fatty acids containing 14 to 22 carbon atoms and / or their salts resulted in emulsions that showed no phase separation when stored below 40°C.

[0059] Furthermore, it is advantageous within the meaning of the invention if the total proportion of polyglyceryl-10 stearates and fatty acids having 14 to 22 carbon atoms and / or their salts is from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 4% by weight and particularly preferably from 1 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0060] Thus, the total proportion of emulsifiers is advantageously from 0.1 to 10 wt.%, preferably from 0.5 to 8 wt.% and particularly preferably from 1 to 6 wt.%, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0061] Further advantageous emulsions advantageously contain the emulsifiers in a total proportion of 0.1 to 5 wt.%, preferably 0.5 to 4 wt.% and particularly preferably 1 to 3 wt.%, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0062] In one embodiment, it is particularly advantageous if the emulsion contains one or more fatty acids having 14 to 22 carbon atoms and / or their salts in a proportion of 0.1 to 5 wt.%, preferably 0.5 to 4 wt.%, and particularly preferably 1 to 3 wt.%, based on the total weight of the emulsion. Within this embodiment, it is preferred if at least stearic acid and / or palmitic acid or their salts are present.

[0063] In a further embodiment, it is particularly advantageous if the emulsion contains polyglyceryl-10 stearates in a proportion of 0.1 to 5 wt.%, preferably 0.5 to 4 wt.% and particularly preferably 1 to 3 wt.%, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0064] It is also advantageous within the meaning of the present invention if the cosmetic emulsion contains glyceryl stearate. If the emulsion contains glyceryl stearate, it is preferred if the proportion of glyceryl stearate is from 0.1 to 3 wt.%, more preferably from 0.3 to 2.5 wt.%, and particularly preferably from 0.5 to 1.5 wt.%, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0065] Furthermore, it is advantageous if the emulsion according to the invention contains glyceryl stearate citrate in a proportion of 0.5 to 4 wt.%, preferably 1 to 3 wt.% and particularly preferably 1.5 to 2.5 wt.%, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0066] Furthermore, it is advantageous if the cosmetic emulsion of the invention contains at least one fatty alcohol, in particular stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol and / or behenyl alcohol. Mixtures of stearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol according to the invention are known under the INCI name cetyl alcohol. If the cosmetic emulsion contains at least one fatty alcohol, in particular stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol and / or behenyl alcohol, it is preferred if the proportion of fatty alcohols is from 0.5 to 4 wt.% based on the total weight of the emulsion. It is particularly advantageous if stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol and / or behenyl alcohol are present in a proportion of 1 to 4 wt.% based on the total weight of the emulsion, wherein it is further preferred if no other fatty alcohols are present. The addition of the above-mentioned fatty alcohols surprisingly leads to a further reduction in the bubble size and thus to a finer ora finer-bubble mousse / foam structure. Particularly advantageous and surprising results were achieved when behenyl alcohol is included and the proportion of behenyl alcohol is from 1.5% to 4% by weight, preferably from 2% to 3.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0067] It is also advantageous if the cosmetic emulsion contains ethanol, the proportion of ethanol preferably being from 0.5 to 5% by weight, particularly preferably from 1 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0068] Furthermore, advantageous emulsions are characterized in that they contain butylene glycol, wherein the proportion of butylene glycol is preferably from 1 to 8 wt.% and further preferably from 2 to 5 wt.% and particularly preferably from 2.5 to 4 wt.% based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0069] It is further advantageous according to the invention if the emulsion contains propylene glycol, 2-methylpropane-1,3-diol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-octanediol, glyceryl caprylate and / or 1,2-decanediol.

[0070] Furthermore, it is also advantageous in the sense of the present invention if the emulsion contains phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, sorbic acid and its alkali salts, dehydroacetic acid, benzethonium chloride and / or ethylhexylglycerin.

[0071] If the emulsion contains phenoxyethanol, it is preferred if the proportion of phenoxyethanol is from 0.2 to 1.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0072] If the emulsion contains methylparaben and / or ethylparaben, it is preferred if the total proportion of methylparaben and / or ethylparaben is from 0.01 to 0.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0073] Last but not least, advantageous embodiments according to the invention are characterized in that the emulsion contains one or more active ingredients selected from the group of the compounds glycyrrhetinic acid, urea, arctiin, folic acid, coenzyme Q10 (ubiquinone), alpha-glucosylrutin, carnitine, carnosine, caffeine, natural and / or synthetic isoflavonoids, glyceryl glucose, creatine, creatinine, taurine, tocopherol, tocopherol acetate vitamin C, vitamin C phosphate, vitamin C palmitate, niacinamide, vitamin A palmitate, retinol, panthenol, licochalcone A, rucinol, N-[(2,4-dihydroxyphenyl)thiazol-2-yl]isobutyramide, honociol and magnolol (also as a component of magnolia extracts), hyaluronic acid and / or silymarin (milk thistle extract).

[0074] In one embodiment of the present invention, it is advantageous if the emulsion does not contain any silicone oils or silicone-containing substances.

[0075] A further embodiment of the invention is advantageously characterized in that the emulsion contains at least one silicone oil.

[0076] It is further advantageous if the emulsion according to the invention contains glycerol in a proportion of 0.5 to 12% by weight, preferably 2 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0077] The cosmetic emulsion according to the invention can further contain dyes and / or color pigments, particularly if the emulsion is used for decorative cosmetics. The dyes and color pigments can be selected from the corresponding positive list of the Cosmetics Directive or the EC list of cosmetic dyes. In most cases, they are identical to the dyes approved for food use. Advantageous color pigments include, for example, titanium dioxide, mica, iron oxides (e.g., Fe2O3, Fe3O4, FeO(OH)) and / or tin oxide. Advantageous dyes include, for example, carmine, Prussian blue, chromium oxide green, ultramarine blue and / or manganese violet. It is particularly advantageous to select the dyes and / or color pigments from the following list. The color index numbers (CIN) are taken from the Rowe Color Index, 3rd edition, Society of Dyers and Colourists, Bradford, England, 1971. Inhaltstoff CIN Farbe Piqment Green 10006 qrün Acid Green 1 10020 qrün 2,4-Dinitrohydroxynaphthalene-7-sulfonic acid 10316 gelb Piqment Yellow 1 11680 gelb Piqment Yellow 3 11710 gelb Piqment Orange 1 11725 orange 2,4-Dihydroxyazobenzene 11920 orange Solvent Red 3 12010 rot 1-(2'-Chloro-4'-nitro-1'-phenylazo)-2-hydroxynaphthalene 12085 rot Piqment Red 3 12120 rot Ceres red; Sudan red; Fat Red G 12150 rot Piqment Red 112 12370 rot Piqment Red 7 12420 rot Piqment Brown 1 12480 braun 4-(2'-Methoxy-5'-sulfodiethylamido-1'-phenylazo)-3-hydroxy-5"-chloro-2",4"-dimethoxy-2-naphthanilide 12490 rot Disperse Yellow 16 12700 gelb 1-(4-Sulfo-1-phenylazo)-4-aminobenzene-5-sulfonic acid 13015 gelb 2,4-Dihydroxyazobenzene-4'-sulfonic acid 14270 orange 2-(2,4-Dimethylphenylazo-5-sulfo)-1-hydroxynaphthalene-4-sulfonic acid 14700 rot 2-(4-Sulfo-1-naphthylazo)-1-naphthol-4-sulfonic acid 14720 rot 2-(6-Sulfo-2,4-xylylazo)-1-naphthol-5-sulfonic acid 14815 rot 1-(4'-Sulfophenylazo)-2-hydroxynaphthalene 15510 orange 1-(2-Sulfo-4-chloro-5-carboxy-1-phenylazo)-2-hydroxynaphthalene 15525 rot 1-(3-Methylphenylazo-4-sulfo)-2-hydroxynaphthalene 15580 rot 1-(4',(8')-Sulfonaphthylazo)-2-hydroxynaphthalene 15620 rot 2-Hydroxy-1,2'-azonaphthalene-1'-sulfonic acid 15630 rot 3-Hydroxy-4-phenylazo-2-naphthylcarboxylic acid 15800 rot 1-(2-Sulfo-4-methyl-1-phenylazo)-2-naphthylcarboxylic acid 15850 rot 1-(2-Sulfo-4-methyl-5-chloro-1-phenylazo)-2-hydroxynaphthalene- 3-carboxylic acid 15865 rot 1-(2-Sulfo-1-naphthylazo)-2-hydroxynaphthalene-3-carboxylic acid 15880 rot 1-(3-Sulfo-1-phenylazo)-2-naphthol-6-sulfonic acid 15980 orange 1-(4-Sulfo-1-phenylazo)-2-naphthol-6-sulfonic acid 15985 gelb Allura Red 16035 rot 1-(4-Sulfo-1-naphthylazo)-2-naphthol-3,6-disulfonic acid 16185 rot Acid Orange 10 16230 orange 1-(4-Sulfo-1-naphthylazo)-2-naphthol-6,8-disulfonic acid 16255 rot 1-(4-Sulfo-1-naphthylazo)-2-naphthol-3,6,8-trisulfonic acid 16290 rot 8-Amino-2-phenylazo-1-naphthol-3,6-disulfonic acid 17200 rot Acid Red 1 18050 rot Acid Red 155 18130 rot Acid Yellow 121 18690 gelb Acid Red 180 18736 rot Acid Yellow 11 18820 gelb Acid Yellow 17 18965 gelb 4-(4-Sulfo-1-phenylazo)-1-(4-sulfophenyl)-5-hydroxy-pyrazolone-3-carboxylic acid 19140 gelb Piqment Yellow 16 20040 gelb 2,6-(4'-Sulfo-2", 4"-dimethyl)bisphenylazo)-1,3-dihydroxybenzene 20170 orange Acid Black 1 20470 schwarz Piqment Yellow 13 21100 gelb Piqment Yellow 83 21108 gelb Solvent Yellow 21230 gelb Acid Red 163 24790 rot Acid Red 73 27290 rot 2-[4'-(4"-Sulfo-1 "-phenylazo)-7'-sulfo-1'-naphthylazo]-1-hydroxy-7-aminonaphthalene-3,6-disulfonic acid 27755 schwarz 4'-[(4"-Sulfo-1"-phenylazo)-7'-sulfo-1'-naphthylazo]-1-hydroxy-8-acetylaminonaphthalene-3,5-disulfonic acid 28440 schwarz Direct Orange 34, 39, 44, 46, 60 40215 orange Food Yellow 40800 orange trans-β-Apo-8'-carotenaldehyde (C 30 ) 40820 orange trans-Apo-8'-carotenic acid (C 30 )-ethyl ester 40825 orange Canthaxanthin 40850 orange Acid Blue 1 42045 blau 2,4-Disulfo-5-hydroxy-4'-4"-bis(diethylamino)triphenylcarbinol 42051 blau 4-[(4-N-Ethyl-p-sulfobenzylamino)phenyl(4-hydroxy-2-sulfophenyl)(methylene)-1-(N-ethyl-N-p-sulfobenzyl)-2,5-cyclohexadienimine] 42053 grün Acid Blue 7 42080 blau (N-Ethyl-p-sulfobenzylamino)phenyl(2-sulfophenyl)methylene-(N-ethyl-N-p-sulfobenzyl)Δ 2,5< -cyclohexadienimine 42090 blau Acid Green 9 42100 qrün Diethyldisulfobenzyl-di-4-amino-2-chloro-di-2-methyl-fuchsonimmonium 42170 grün Basic Violet 14 42510 violett Basic Violet 2 42520 violett 2'-Methyl-4'-(N-ethyl-N-m-sulfobenzyl)amino-4"-(N-diethyl)amino-2-methyl-N-ethyl-N-m-sulfobenzylfuchsonimmonium 42735 blau 4'-(N-Dimethyl)amino-4"-(N-phenyl)aminonaphtho-N-dimethyl-fuchsonimmonium 44045 blau 2-Hydroxy-3,6-disulfo-4,4'-bisdimethylaminonaphtho-fuchsonimmonium 44090 grün Acid Red 52 45100 rot 3-(2'-Methylphenylamino)-6-(2'-methyl-4'-sulfophenylamino)-9-(2"-carboxyphenyl)xanthenium salt 45190 violett Acid Red 50 45220 rot Phenyl-2-oxyfluorone-2-carboxylic acid 45350 gelb 4,5-Dibromofluorescein 45370 orange 2,4,5,7-Tetrabromofluorescein 45380 rot Solvent Dye 45396 orange Acid Red 98 45405 rot 3',4',5',6'-Tetrachloro-2,4,5,7-tetrabromofluorescein 45410 rot 4,5-Diiodofluorescein 45425 rot 2,4,5,7-Tetraiodofluorescein 45430 rot Quinophthalone 47000 gelb Quinophthalonedisulfonic acid 47005 gelb Acid Violet 50 50325 violett Acid Black 2 50420 schwarz Piqment Violet 23 51319 violett 1,2-Dioxyanthraquinone, calcium-aluminum complex 58000 rot 3-Oxypyrene-5,8,10-sulfonic acid 59040 grün 1-Hydroxy-4-N-phenylaminoanthraquinone 60724 violett 1-Hydroxy-4-(4'-methylphenylamino)anthraquinone 60725 violett Acid Violet 23 60730 violett 1,4-Di(4'-methylphenylamino)anthraquinone 61565 grün 1,4-Bis(o-sulfo-p-toluidino)anthraquinone 61570 qrün Acid Blue 80 61585 blau Acid Blue 62 62045 blau N,N'-Dihydro-1,2,1',2'-anthraquinone azine 69800 blau Vat Blue 6; Piqment Blue 64 69825 blau Vat Orange 7 71105 orange Indiqo 73000 blau Indiqo-disulfonic acid 73015 blau 4,4'-Dimethyl-6,6'-dichlorothioindigo 73360 rot 5,5'-Dichloro-7,7'-dimethylthioindigo 73385 violett Quinacridone Violet 19 73900 violett Piqment Red 122 73915 rot Piqment Blue 16 74100 blau Phthalocyanine 74160 blau Direct Blue 86 74180 blau Chlorinated phthalocyanine 74260 grün Natural Yellow 6,19; Natural Red 1 75100 gelb Bixin, Norbixin 75120 orange Lycopene 75125 gelb trans-alpha-, beta- and gamma-carotene 75130 orange Keto- and / or hydroxyl derivates of carotene 75135 gelb Guanine or pearlescent aqent 75170 weiß 1,7-Bis(4-hydroxy-3-methoxyphenyl)-1,6-heptadiene-3,5-dione 75300 gelb Complex salt (Na, Al, Ca) of carminic acid 75470 rot Chlorophyll a and b; copper compounds of chlorophylls and chlorophyllins 75810 grün Aluminum 77000 weiß Hydrated alumina 77002 weiß Hydrous aluminum silicates 77004 weiß Ultramarine 77007 blau Piqment Red 101 and 102 77015 rot Barium sulfate 77120 weiß Bismuth oxychloride and its mixtures with mica 77163 weiß Calcium carbonate 77220 weiß Calcium sulfate 77231 weiß Carbon 77266 schwarz Piqment black 9 77267 schwarz Carbo medicinalis veqetabilis 77268:1 schwarz Chromium oxide 77288 qrün Chromium oxide, hydrous 77289 qrün Piqment Blue 28, Piqment Green 14 77346 qrün Piqment Metal 2 77400 braun Gold 77480 braun Iron oxides and hydroxides 77489 orange Iron oxide 77491 rot Hydrated iron oxide 77492 gelb Iron oxide 77499 schwarz Mixtures of iron (II) and iron(III)hexacyanoferrate 77510 blau Piqment White 18 77713 weiß Manqanese animonium diphosphate 77742 violett Manqanese phosphate; Mn 3 (PO 4 ) 2 · 7 H20 77745 rot Silver 77820 weiß Titanium dioxide and its mixtures with mica 77891 weiß Zinc oxide 77947 weiß 6,7-Dimethyl-9-(1'-D-ribityl)isoalloxazine, lactoflavine gelb Suqar colorinq braun Capsanthin, capsorubin orange Betanin rot Benzopyrylium salts, anthocyans rot Aluminum, zinc, maqnesium and calcium stearate weiß Bromothymol blue blau Bromocresol qreen qrün Acid Red 195 rot Silica-treated Red Iron Oxide 77491 rot Silica-treated Black Iron Oxide 77499 schwarz Silica-treated Yellow Iron Oxide C338073 gelb Silica-treated Pigmentary Titanium Dioxide 77891 weiß Alqinate-treated Red Iron Oxide rot Alqinate-treated Black Iron Oxide schwarz Alqinate-treated Yellow Iron Oxide gelb Alqinate-treated Pigmentary Titanium Dioxide weiß Sodium glycerophosphate-treated Iron Oxide 77491 rot Sodium glycerophosphate-treated Iron Oxide 77499 schwarz Sodium glycerophosphate-treated Iron Oxide 77492 gelb Sodium glycerophosphate- treated Pigmentary Titanium Dioxide 77891 weiß Hydrogenated-Lecithin-treated Iron Oxide 77491 rot Hydrogenated-Lecithin-treated Iron Oxide 77499 schwarz Hydrogenated-Lecithin-treated Iron Oxide 77492 gelb Hydrogenated-Lecithin-treated Pigmentary Titanium Dioxide 77891 weiß

[0078] The term "treated" in the table above means, in the sense of the present disclosure, that a pigment has been treated with the respective substance so that the respective substance used is deposited on the surface of the pigment.

[0079] Advantageous emulsions are characterized by containing 0.1 to 12 wt.%, preferably 3 to 10 wt.%, and particularly preferably 5 to 9 wt.% of inorganic pigments, with the percentage being based on the total weight of the emulsion. It is particularly advantageous if at least one inorganic pigment having a coating is present.

[0080] An advantageous embodiment of the invention is characterized in that the proportion of inorganic pigments is from 5 to 10 wt.% based on the total weight of the emulsion, with the proportion of coated inorganic pigments being at least 60 wt.%, preferably at least 90 wt.%, based on the total weight of all inorganic pigments present. Coated pigments coated with silicate, alginate, sodium glycerophosphate, or hydrogenated lecithin are particularly preferred. Vergleichsversuche und Beispiele

[0081] The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without limiting it. Unless otherwise stated, all quantities, proportions, and percentages are based on the weight and the total amount or the total weight of the preparations.

[0082] To illustrate the inventive effect, the emulsions of Examples 1 to 8 were prepared.

[0083] The preparations could be produced using manufacturing processes known to those skilled in the cosmetics field. Examples 1 to 8 were prepared by suspending sodium carboxymethyl starch or tapioca starch in butylene glycol. Xanthan gum was incorporated into a mixture of caprylic / capric triglyceride, glyceryl stearate citrate, behenyl alcohol, and phenoxyethanol, tempered to 75°C. This prepared mixture was added to a similarly prepared mixture of water and glycerin, which had also been preheated to 75°C. After cooling to 30°C, the starch-butylene glycol suspension was added and homogenized.

[0084] The O / W emulsions of Examples Ex. 1, Ex. 6, Ex. 7 and Ex. 8 are comparative examples not according to the invention, while Ex. 2 to Ex. 5 are emulsions according to the invention. Inhaltstoffe Bsp.1 Bsp.2 Bsp.3 Bsp.4 Aqua ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 Glycerin 8 7,96 7,92 7,84 Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride 10 9,95 9,9 9,8 Glyceryl Stearate Citrate 2 1,99 1,98 1,96 Behenyl Alcohol 3 2,985 2,97 2,94 Phenoxyethanol 0,8 0,796 0,792 0,784 Xanthan Gum 0,3 0,2985 0,297 0,294 Sodium Carboxymethyl Starch 0,5 1 2 Tapioca Starch Butylene Glycol 5 4,975 4,95 4,9 Verhältnis Wasser: Natriumcarboxymethylstärke - 141:1 70,19:1 34,74:1 Inhaltstoffe Bsp.5 Bsp.6 Bsp.7 Bsp.8 Aqua ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 Glycerin 7,76 7,68 7,6 7,6 Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride 9,7 9,6 9,5 9,5 Glyceryl Stearate Citrate 1,94 1,92 1,9 1,9 Behenyl Alcohol 2,91 2,88 2,85 2,85 Phenoxyethanol 0,776 0,768 0,76 0,76 Xanthan Gum 0,291 0,288 0,285 0,285 Sodium Carboxymethyl Starch 3 4 5 Tapioca Starch 5 Butylene Glycol 4,85 4,8 4,75 4,75 Ratio of water: sodium carboxymethyl starch or tapioca starch 22,92:1 17,02:1 13,47:1 13,47:1

[0085] Microscopic images of the emulsions of examples 1, 4 and 8 were taken. These are shown in Figures 1 to 3 shown, always using the same magnification.

[0086] Figure 1 shows Example 1, Figure 2 shows Example 4 and Figure 3 Example 8 shows 24 hours after production.

[0087] Furthermore, it was surprisingly found that the examples according to the invention exhibited a surprisingly matte appearance. This is demonstrated by a comparison of Examples 1, 4, and 8. Reflection measurements of the diffuse scattering were determined for these example formulations using a UV / Vis spectrometer with a gloss trap.

[0088] The comparison spectrum is in Figure 4It can be seen that the proportion of diffuse scattering of light across the entire spectrum is significantly greater for Example 4 than for Example 1 and Example 8. As a result, Example 4 has a significantly more matte appearance than Example 1 and Example 8.

[0089] Further examples according to the invention are listed below: Ingredients Example 9 Example 10 Example 11 Example 12 Example 13 Example 14 Aqua to 100 to 100 to 100 to 100 to 100 to 100 Glycerin 4,8 5,2 3,9 4,7 4,9 4 Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride 7,3 6,5 7 9,3 12 5 Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides 1 1,2 0,2 1,2 1,1 2 Cetearyl Alcohol 0,85 1 0,58 2 1,55 2 Glyceryl Stearate 1 1 1 1 1 1 Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate 1,8 1,65 1 0,5 1,2 1,2 Fatty acid mixture (1.5 wt.% Arachidic Acid; 2.5 wt.% Myristic Acid; 0.5 wt.% Oleic Acid; 48.5 wt.% Palmitic Acid; 47 wt.% Stearic Acid) 1 2,1 0,3 0,2 Xanthan Gum 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 Ethanol 1,92 1,92 1,92 1,92 1,92 2,3 Phenoxyethanol 0,6 0,8 0,5 0,8 0,7 0,8 Butylene Glycol 5 3 2 5 5 5 Perfume 0,3 0,5 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 Tapioca Starch 0,1 Sodium Carboxymethyl Starch 1,7 1,55 2 1,45 2,8 2,4 Ingredients Example 15 Example 16 Example 17 Example 18 Example 19 Aqua to 100 to 100 to 100 to 100 to 100 Glycerin 7,0 5,0 4,0 5,0 8,0 Aqua + Trisodium EDTA 0,03 0,03 0,03 0,03 0,03 Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride 6,0 6,0 6,0 4,0 6,0 Behenyl Alcohol 2,0 2,0 2,0 2,0 2,0 Glyceryl Stearate 1,0 1,0 1,0 1,0 1,0 Fatty acid mixture (1.5 wt.% Arachidic Acid; 2.5 wt.% Myristic Acid; 0.5 wt.% Oleic Acid; 48.5 wt.% Palmitic Acid; 47 wt.% Stearic Acid) 2,5 2,5 2,5 2,5 2,5 Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides 1,0 1,0 1,0 1,0 1,0 Dimethicone 3,0 3,0 3,0 2,0 3,0 Butyrospermum Parkii Butter 1,0 1,0 1,0 1,0 1,0 PVP 0,9 0,9 0,9 0,9 0,9 Xanthan Gum 0,2 0,2 0,2 0,2 0,2 Phenoxyethanol 0,5 1,0 0,8 0,8 Ethanol 5,0 4,0 2,0 2,0 2,0 Benzethonium chlorid 0,05 Octandiol 0,2 0,3 Butylene Glycol 4,0 5,0 5,0 5,0 4,0 Parfum 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 Sodium Carboxymethyl Starch 1,5 1,75 1,8 2,5 1,5 Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethan 0,5 Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenolmethoxyphenyltriazine 0,5 2-Ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3-diphenylacrylat (Octocrylen) 2 Ethylhexylsalicylate 3 CI 77492 + CI 77491 + CI 77499 0,3 CI 77491 + CI 77499 0,1 CI 77491 0,07 CI 77492 0,9 CI 77891 6,63 Silica-treated CI 77491 0,17 Silica-treated CI 77499 0,07 Silica-treated CI 338073 0,1 Silica-treated CI 77891 6,76 Alginate-treated Red Iron Oxide 0,17 Alginate-treated Black Iron Oxide 0,07 Alginate-treated Yellow Iron Oxide 0,1 Alginate-treated Pigmentary Titanium Dioxide 6,76 Hydrogenated-Lecithin-treated CI 77491 0,17 Hydrogenated-Lecithin-treated CI 77499 0,07 Hydrogenated-Lecithin-treated CI 77492 0,1 Hydrogenated-Lecithin-treated CI 77891 6,76

Claims

1. Cosmetic emulsion comprising a) sodium carboxymethyl starch and b) water; characterized in that the weight ratio of water to sodium carboxymethyl starch is less than 160:1 and more than 20:1.

2. Cosmetic emulsion according to Claim 1, characterized in that the weight ratio of water to sodium carboxymethyl starch is less than 100:1, preferably less than 80:1, and particularly preferably less than 60:1.

3. Cosmetic emulsion according to either of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio of water to sodium carboxymethyl starch is more than 30:1.

4. Cosmetic emulsion according to Claim 1, characterized in that the weight ratio of water to sodium carboxymethyl starch is within a range from 80:1 to 20:1 and particularly preferably from 60:1 to 30:1.

5. Cosmetic emulsion according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the proportion of water in the emulsion is from 55% to 90% by weight, preferably from 60% to 80% by weight, and particularly preferably from 65% to 75% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

6. Cosmetic emulsion according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains no acrylatebased polymers.

7. Cosmetic emulsion according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that it additionally comprises at least one further polysaccharide-based polymer other than polysaccharides modified with acrylic acid or methacrylic acid.

8. Cosmetic emulsion according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that xanthan gum, sclerotium gum, locust bean gum, and / or gellan gum are present in the emulsion in a proportion of 0.05% to 0.5% by weight based on the total weight of the emulsion.

9. Cosmetic emulsion according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the proportion of the oil phase is from 3% to 20% by weight, preferably from 5% to 18% by weight, more preferably from 6% to 15% by weight, and particularly preferably from 7% to 12% by weight, with emulsifiers and surfactants by definition not counted toward the oil phase and based on the total weight of the emulsion.

10. Cosmetic emulsion according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises as emulsifiers glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate citrate, polyglyceryl-10 stearate, and / or fatty acids containing 14 to 22 carbon atoms and / or salts thereof.

11. Cosmetic emulsion according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total proportion of emulsifiers is advantageously from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 8% by weight, and particularly preferably from 1% to 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

12. Cosmetic emulsion according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, and / or behenyl alcohol in a proportion of from 0.5% to 4% by weight based on the total weight of the emulsion.

13. Cosmetic emulsion according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises 0.1% to 12% by weight, preferably 3% to 10% by weight, and particularly preferably 5% to 9% by weight, of inorganic pigments, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

14. Cosmetic emulsion according to Claim 14, characterized in that the proportion of inorganic pigments is from 5% to 10% by weight based on the total weight of the emulsion, the proportion of coated inorganic pigments being at least 60% by weight, preferably at least 90% by weight, based on the total weight of all inorganic pigments present.

15. Use of sodium carboxymethyl starch for the formation of mousse structures and / or foam structures in a cosmetic water-containing emulsion, characterized in that the weight ratio of water to sodium carboxymethyl starch is less than 160:1 and more than 20:1.