COSMETIC AGENTS FOR THE TEMPORARY TRANSFORMATION OF KERATINIC FIBERS WITH STARCH DERIVATIVES AND HIGH LONG-TERM DURABILITY

Description

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic agent for the temporary reshaping of keratin fibers, in particular human hair.

[0002] Temporary styling for a longer period of time, even several days, usually requires the use of setting agents. Therefore, hair treatment products that temporarily shape hair play an important role. Such temporary styling products typically contain synthetic polymers and / or waxes as setting agents. Products that support temporary hair styling can be packaged as hairspray, hair wax, hair gel, or hair mousse, for example.

[0003] An important property of a hair-styling product, also referred to as a styling product, is to provide the treated fibers with the most permanent hold possible in their newly shaped form—that is, the shape imprinted on the hair. This is also referred to as long-lasting style hold or the long-lasting hold of the styling product. The style hold is essentially determined by the type and amount of the setting agent used, although other components of the styling product can also have an influence.

[0004] In addition to long-lasting hold, styling products must meet a whole range of other requirements. These can be roughly divided into properties for the hair, properties of the respective formulation, for example, properties of the foam, gel, or sprayed aerosol, and properties related to the handling of the styling product, with particular importance being attached to the hair. Particularly important are moisture resistance, low tack, and a balanced conditioning effect. Furthermore, a styling product should be universally applicable to all hair types and be gentle on hair and skin.

[0005] To meet these diverse requirements, a variety of synthetic polymers have been developed as setting agents for use in styling products. These polymers can be divided into cationic, anionic, nonionic, and amphoteric setting polymers.

[0006] The synthetic polymers commonly used in cosmetic products for temporary shaping are produced from corresponding synthetically accessible monomers. These monomers are obtained from fossil materials such as petroleum by converting them into the corresponding polymer building blocks, which requires energy, among other things. Since the monomers themselves are synthetically produced, the polymers commonly used are fully synthetic polymers. In the context of a more sustainable use of raw materials and energy, it remains desirable to use only those cosmetic raw materials for cosmetic products that are obtainable from renewable resources with the least possible use of energy.However, a reduction in quantity or even a replacement of said fully synthetic polymers can only be carried out if the replacement polymers produce the properties desired for the intended application and give the keratin-containing fibers sufficient, stable hold of the imprinted shape.

[0007] An object of the present invention was to provide cosmetic agents for the temporary deformation of keratin fibers, in which the use of fully synthetic polymers is significantly reduced or in which the use of fully synthetic polymers is dispensed with and the hairstyles impart a long-lasting degree of hold.

[0008] This object is achieved by a cosmetic agent for the temporary reshaping of keratin fibres, containing: at least one amphoteric starch derivative and at least one starch phosphate, according to claim 1.

[0009] Within the scope of the present invention, it has surprisingly been found that the combination of at least one amphoteric starch derivative and at least one starch phosphate in a cosmetic agent for temporarily shaping keratin fibers, in particular human hair, leads to an unexpectedly high long-term hold of hairstyles. In other words, the durability of a hairstyle created using a temporary shaping agent according to the invention can be extended.

[0010] Other properties typically required of cosmetic products for temporarily reshaping keratin fibers, such as low stickiness and good moisture resistance, were retained. Furthermore, the two starch derivatives are based on a natural, renewable raw material.

[0011] The present invention relates in particular to cosmetic styling agents such as hair gels, hair waxes, pastes, lotions, emulsions, or clays. The product form "clay" refers to highly viscous, waxy cosmetic agents that contain, among other things, clay compounds (e.g., kaolin). The term "keratin fibers" encompasses fur, wool, and feathers, but especially human hair.

[0012] As the first ingredient essential to the invention, the cosmetic product contains at least one amphoteric starch derivative according to formula (I) below.

[0013] Amphoteric starch derivatives contain one or more anionic groups and one or more cationic groups. Anionic and cationic groups can be bound to the same reactive site of the starch molecule or to different sites. They are preferably bound to the same reactive site of the starch molecule. Anionic groups can be of the carboxylic acid, phosphate, or sulfate type and are preferably of the carboxylic acid type. The cationic groups can be of the primary amine, secondary amine, tertiary amine, or quaternary amine type.

[0014] According to the invention, the amphoteric starch derivative is selected from formula (I): ST-O stands for a starch molecule, R is the same or different and stands for a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical, R' is the same or different and stands for a hydrogen atom, a methyl radical or a -COOH group, n is an integer equal to 2 or 3, M is the same or different and stands for a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal such as Na, K, Li, NH 4 , a quaternary ammonium or an organic amine; R" stands for a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical having 1 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0015] In particular, amphoteric starch derivatives modified with 2-chloroethylaminodipropionic acid are used. These are the amphoteric starch derivatives of formula (I) in which R, R', and M represent a hydrogen atom and n is 2. Other amphoteric starch derivatives according to formulas (II)-(IV) above can also be used.

[0016] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the amphoteric starch derivative used is a potato starch modified with 2-chloroethylaminodipropionic acid and neutralized with NaOH. Such a modified potato starch is available, for example, under the name Structure® Solanace from Nouryon.

[0017] The cosmetic product preferably contains the amphoteric starch derivative in an amount of 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.25 to 8% by weight and most preferably 0.4 to 5% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the cosmetic product.

[0018] As a second ingredient essential to the invention, the cosmetic product contains at least one starch phosphate.

[0019] Particularly preferred starch phosphates are compounds of formulas (I) to (III), which Monostarch phosphates Am-O-PO-(OX)z (I) distarch phosphates, Am-O-PO-(OX)-O-Am (II) tristarch phosphates Am-O-PO-(O-Am)z (III) and mixtures thereof, where Am is starch, X can be the same or different and is an alkali metal, preferably sodium or potassium, an alkaline earth metal, preferably calcium or magnesium, an ammonium salt, an amine salt, preferably a salt of monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine or 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, or an ammonium salt derived from a basic amino acid, preferably lysine, arginine, sarcosine, ornithine or citrulline.

[0020] Preferably, the starch phosphate is selected from distarch phosphates of formula (II).

[0021] The starch molecules used can come from a plant source such as grains, tubers, roots, legumes, and fruits. Preferably, the starch comes from a plant source, including corn, peas, potatoes, sweet potatoes, bananas, barley, wheat, rice, oats, sago, tapioca, and sorghum. Preferably, the starch is obtained from corn.

[0022] The at least one starch phosphate may have further modifications, in particular etherifications and / or esterifications.

[0023] A particularly preferred modified starch phosphate is a hydroxypropyl-substituted starch phosphate, in particular hydroxypropyl distarch phosphate. Most preferably, the starch phosphate comprises a hydroxypropyl distarch phosphate produced from corn starch. In a highly preferred embodiment, the starch phosphate comprises a hydroxypropyl distarch phosphate produced from waxy corn starch.

[0024] Suitable distarch phosphates include, for example, the commercial products Prejel VA-70-T AGGL (gelatinized hydroxypropyl cassava distarch phosphate), Prejel TK1 (gelatinized cassava distarch phosphate) and Prejel 200 (gelatinized acetyl cassava distarch phosphate) from Avebe or Structure Zea (gelatinized hydroxypropyl corn distarch phosphate) or Structure XL (hydroxypropyl corn distarch phosphate) from Nouryon or AGENAJEL 20.313 (hydroxypropyl corn distarch phosphate) from AGRANA Starch.

[0025] The cosmetic agent preferably contains the starch phosphate in an amount of 0.1 to 10 wt.%, more preferably 0.25 to 8 and most preferably 0.4 to 5 wt.%, in each case based on the total weight of the cosmetic agent.

[0026] In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic agent can be formulated with other, particularly film-forming, polymers. The cosmetic agent can further contain, for example, acrylate (co)polymers, polyurethane polymers, or vinylpyrrolidone-containing homopolymers and copolymers, such as PVP or PVP / VA.

[0027] Due to their cosmetic effect in combination with the two starch derivatives, the additional film-forming polymers preferably comprise polyvinylpyrrolidones (INCI name: PVP) or vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers (INCI name: VP / VA copolymer). The addition of additional film-forming polymers, in particular the aforementioned polyvinylpyrrolidones and / or vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, noticeably advantageously influences the holding properties as well as the application properties of the cosmetic products. The weight fraction of these additional polymers is preferably limited to amounts between 1 and 15 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic product. Preferred cosmetic products are therefore characterized in that they further contain 1 to 15 wt.% of polyvinylpyrrolidone and / or a vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymer, preferably polyvinylpyrrolidone, based on their total weight.Particularly preferred cosmetic agents have a weight proportion of the polyvinylpyrrolidone and / or vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymer in the total weight of the cosmetic agent of 2 to 10 wt.%, preferably of 5 to 10 wt.%.

[0028] The cosmetic product may contain, as a further component, a natural or synthetic wax having a melting point above 37°C. The cosmetic product may contain the wax in a total amount of 1 to 30 wt.%, preferably 2 to 25 wt.%, and more preferably 2.5 to 20 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic product.

[0029] The cosmetic product preferably contains an emulsifier. Suitable emulsifiers include anionic, cationic, non-ionic, and ampholytic surfactants suitable for application to the human body. Ampholytic surfactants include zwitterionic surfactants and ampholytes. Non-ionic emulsifiers are preferred.

[0030] As non-ionic emulsifiers, in particular addition products of ethylene oxide with linear fatty alcohols, with fatty acids, with fatty acid alkanolamides, with fatty acid monoglycerides, with sorbitan fatty acid monoesters, with fatty acid glycerides, with methyl glucoside monofatty acid esters, with polydimethylsiloxanes and mixtures thereof can be used.

[0031] Particularly preferred nonionic surfactants include the addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil or hydrogenated castor oil. Preference is given to ethylene oxide addition products of hydrogenated castor oil, which are available, for example, under the name PEG Hydrogenated Castor Oil, e.g., PEG-30 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-33 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-35 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-36 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, or PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil. The use of PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is preferred.

[0032] The cosmetic product may contain the emulsifier in a total amount of 0.1 to 2 wt.%, preferably 0.25 to 1.5 wt.%, more preferably 0.5 to 1 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic product.

[0033] Other suitable auxiliaries and additives that may be contained in the cosmetic product include, in particular, care components such as oils, protein hydrolysates, vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors.

[0034] To adjust the pH, the cosmetic product may also contain pH adjusters. Examples of pH adjusters used in cosmetic products are primary amino alcohols such as aminomethyl propanol (INCI), which is commercially available under the name AMP-ULTRA ®< PC, for example, AMP-ULTRA ®< PC 2000.

[0035] The products may also contain cosmetically acceptable preservatives. An example of a preferred preservative is 2-phenoxyethanol.

[0036] The cosmetic agent of the present invention can be packaged in the usual forms for temporarily styling hair, for example, as wax, paste, lotion, emulsion, or clay. The cosmetic agents are preferably offered in cans or jars.

[0037] The cosmetic agent is preferably a hair gel. Hair gel, in the sense of the present invention, encompasses a water- or water / alcohol-based hair setting agent in gel form that is used to style the hairstyle.

[0038] Preferred water-based or water / alcohol-based cosmetic products contain, based on their total weight, at least 20% by weight, preferably at least 40% by weight, and in particular at least 70% by weight of water. Preferred water / alcohol-based cosmetic products also contain, based on their total weight, at least 2% by weight, preferably at least 5% by weight, and in particular at least 7.5% by weight of ethanol.

[0039] The cosmetic product in the form of a mousse, foam, or spray can be delivered without the addition of a propellant, for example, by means of a mechanical pump, foam, or spray device, or with the use of a propellant (e.g., an aerosol spray). Such cosmetic products then also comprise at least one propellant.

[0040] The present invention also relates to the cosmetic use of the cosmetic agents according to the invention for the temporary reshaping of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, the use of the cosmetic agents according to the invention for the temporary reshaping of keratinic fibers in order to impart long-lasting hold to a hairstyle and a method for the temporary deformation of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, in which the cosmetic agent is applied to keratinic fibers. Examples

[0041] The following hair gels were produced: Component / raw material INCI name V1 V2 V3 E1 E2 Structure ®< Solanace Modified Potato Starch 0,5 - - 0,5 0,5 Structure ®< XL Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate - 0,5 - 0,5 - Agenajel 20.313 Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate - - 0,5 - 0,5 Water 91,5 91,5 91,5 91 91 Ethanol 8 8 8 8 8 In total 100 100 100 100 100

[0042] The quantities in the table are given in % by weight of the respective raw material, based on the total cosmetic product.

[0043] The long-term durability of the working examples E1 and E2 and the comparative examples V1 to V3 was measured.

[0044] The products were tested for their styling properties using a long-lasting hold test. Standardized hair strands from Kerling (Art. No. 826500) of the hair type "European Natural, color 6 / 0" with a length (L max ) of 220 mm and a weight of 3.0 g were used. For preparation, the strands were washed with a 12.5 wt.% sodium laureth sulfate solution. The hair strands were dried overnight in a drying oven at 45°C.

[0045] The hair was soaked in lukewarm water for 20 minutes and then blotted to approximately 50% residual moisture. 750 mg of the test compound was applied to each strand of hair and massaged in. The strands of hair were placed in a Teflon splint, smoothed using a steel roller, and dried overnight at 21°C and 80% humidity.

[0046] The hair strands were then clamped at one end into a holding device and stored for six hours at 21 °C and 85% relative humidity. To calculate the long-lasting hold (LLH), the strand length protruding from the holding device was measured before (L 0 ) and after (L t ) storage.

[0047] Long-lasting hold is a measure of the temporal change in length of a hair strand secured with a hair styling product. The higher the LLH value, the smaller the change in length of the hair strand under the influence of humidity over a given period of time and the better the hold of the hair styling product.

[0048] The long-lasting hold was calculated using the following formula. LLH = 1 − L t − L 0 / L max V1 V2 V3 E1 E2 (V1+V2) (V1+V3) LLH 8,23 6,44 5,66 18,58 17,49 14,67 13,89

[0049] The cosmetic agents E1 and E2 according to the invention therefore showed a clearly superadditive, synergistic effect with regard to moisture resistance.

[0050] Furthermore, the following hair gels E3 and E4 were produced: Component / raw material INCI name E3 E4 Structure ®< Solanace Modified Potato Starch 0,5 0,5 Structure ®< XL Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate 0,5 - Agenajel 20.313 Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate - 0,5 Luviskol ®< VA 64 P VP / VA copolymer 5 5 Perfume 0,25 0,25 Water 85,75 85,75 Ethanol 8 8 In total 100 100

Claims

1. A cosmetic agent for temporarily shaping keratin fibers, containing: - at least one amphoteric starch derivative and - at least one starch phosphate, characterized in that the amphoteric starch derivative is selected from compounds of the following formula: where ST-O represents a starch molecule, R is the same or different and represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical, R' is the same or different and represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl radical or a -COOH group, n is an integer equal to 2 or 3, M is the same or different and represents a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or an alkaline-earth metal such as Na, K, Li, NH4, a quaternary ammonium or an organic amine.

2. The cosmetic agent according to claim 1, characterized in that R, R' and M represent a hydrogen atom and n is equal to 2.

3. The cosmetic agent according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the amount of amphoteric starch derivative is from 0.1 to 10 wt.%, more preferably from 0.25 to 8 and very particularly preferably from 0.5 to 5 wt.%, in each case based on the total weight of the cosmetic agent.

4. The cosmetic agent according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the at least one starch phosphate comprises a compound of formulas (I) to (III) which comprises         Am-O-PO-(OX)2     (I),         Am-O-PO-(OX)-O-Am     (II),         Am-O-PO-(O-Am)2     (III) and mixtures thereof, where Am represents starch, X can be the same or different and represents an alkali metal, an alkaline-earth metal, an ammonium salt, an amine salt.

5. The cosmetic agent according to claim 4, characterized in that the starch phosphate is selected from distarch phosphates of formula (II).

6. The cosmetic agent according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the starch phosphate comprises a hydroxypropyl distarch phosphate which was prepared from corn starch, preferably from waxy corn starch.

7. The cosmetic agent according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the agent further contains polyvinylpyrrolidone and / or a vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymer.

8. A use of a cosmetic agent according to one of the preceding claims for the temporary deformation of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, which is preferably in the form of a hair gel.

9. The use of a cosmetic agent according to claim 8, in order to impart long-lasting hold to a hairstyle.

10. A method for temporarily shaping keratin fibers, in particular human hair, characterized in that a cosmetic agent according to one of claims 1-7 is applied to the keratin fibers.