METHOD FOR TREATING KERATIN MATERIALS WITH AMIDE, ACID OR ESTER-C-GLYCOSIDE DERIVATIVES AND COSMETIC COMPOSITION THEREBY

Description

[0001] The invention relates to new C-glycoside compounds with an amide or acid group, a cosmetic composition comprising them, a preparation process, the use of said C-glycosides for the treatment of keratin materials and in particular the skin; and a process for treating keratin materials using said C-glycosides.

[0002] In particular, said C-glycosides of the invention are inducers of the expression of GLUT-1,

[0003] The present invention relates in particular to the field of aging and the signs associated therewith, on the skin and / or its appendages. It relates in particular to the modulation of the balance between the proliferation and differentiation of epidermal cells and the improvement of the signs linked to the phenomenon of thinning of the epidermis due to a reduction in the number of keratinocytes in the proliferation phase.

[0004] Women - and men - currently tend to want to look young for as long as possible and therefore seek to reduce the signs of skin aging, which are manifested in particular by wrinkles and fine lines, thinning of the epidermis and / or a soft and sagging appearance. In this regard, advertising and fashion refer to products designed to keep skin radiant and wrinkle-free for as long as possible, the signs of youthful skin, especially since the physical appearance affects the psyche and / or morale.

[0005] The skin is made up of two compartments, one superficial, the epidermis, and the other deeper, the dermis, which interact. The natural human epidermis is composed mainly of three types of cells: keratinocytes, which are the vast majority, melanocytes, and Langerhans cells. Each of these cell types contributes through its own functions to the essential role played in the body by the skin, in particular the role of protecting the body from external aggressions called "barrier function".

[0006] The epidermis is conventionally divided into a basal layer of keratinocytes constituting the germinative layer of the epidermis, a so-called spinous layer consisting of several layers of polyhedral cells arranged on the germinative layers, one to three so-called granular layers consisting of flattened cells containing distinct cytoplasmic inclusions, the keratohyalin grains, and finally the horny layer (or stratum corneum), consisting of a set of layers of keratinocytes in the terminal stage of their differentiation and called corneocytes. Corneocytes are anucleated cells mainly composed of a fibrous material containing cytokeratins, surrounded by a horny envelope.

[0007] The dermis provides the epidermis with solid support. It is also its nourishing element. It is mainly composed of fibroblasts and an extracellular matrix composed mainly of collagen, elastin, and a substance called ground substance. These components are synthesized by fibroblasts. It also contains leukocytes, mast cells, and tissue macrophages. Finally, the dermis is crossed by blood vessels and nerve fibers. Cohesion between the epidermis and the dermis is ensured by the dermoepidermal junction.

[0008] The epidermis is constantly producing new keratinocytes to compensate for the continuous loss of epidermal cells in the stratum corneum. However, during aging, a physiological decrease in the number of cells in the proliferation phase can be observed, and consequently a decrease in the number of living epidermal layers. By limiting and / or delaying the passage of cells into the differentiation phase, the pool of young cells is maintained.

[0009] It is therefore important to preserve this pool of proliferative cells, by avoiding or delaying their differentiation, in order to help delay the appearance of signs of aging.

[0010] Glucose transport in most mammalian cells is regulated by a family of membrane proteins called glucose transporters, also referred to as GLUTs. At least 13 proteins are encoded by a family of related genes, with these proteins having different transmembrane domains. The expression of different GLUT isoforms varies depending on the tissue and hormonal and environmental conditions.

[0011] Keratinocytes express at least 4 types of glucose transporters, GLUT-1, 2, 3 and 5. In the prior art, a number of applications are described with GLUT inducers.

[0012] Thus, US 2003 / 0187036 proposes the use of biguanide derivatives to promote the healing of skin lesions such as ulcers occurring in diabetics, or other injuries.

[0013] US 2005 / 0037440 relates to the identification of longevity factors in mammals, and the role of the cJUN factor and the modulation of the JNK signal. It thus suggests using agents that decrease the activity of an indicator such as DAF-14, superoxide dismutase, GLUT-1 or GLUT-4 to combat the signs of aging caused mainly by oxidative stress.

[0014] DE 10259966 describes cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions containing mycosporine-type amino acids and improving oxygen capture; these compounds induce in particular a reduction in the expression of GLUT-1. The compositions can in particular be applied for the treatment of skin aging. FR2901133 describes the use in a composition containing a physiologically acceptable medium of at least one compound inducing epidermal glycolysis (excluding IGF-1) as an agent for reducing and / or delaying the signs of aging of the skin and / or its appendages. Advantageously, the glycolysis-inducing compound is an activator of glucose transporter peptides (GLUT).

[0015] However, there is still a need to find new useful anti-aging agents.

[0016] Furthermore, glycosides are very interesting in various fields including cosmetics, however their chemical synthesis, especially for C-glycosides, is not always easy and accessible. Indeed, it is generally necessary to halogenate the carbon atom in position 1 of the sugar and then subject it to substitution reactions by alkylation, organomagnesium, organolithium, etc., having previously taken care to protect the hydroxyl or amino groups of the sugar and then deprotect them (see for example "recent advances in stereoselective C-glycoside synthesis", tetrahedron, 54, 9913-9959 (1998)). Another solution is to use glycosylation by transition metal catalysis. However, their implementation is not always easy and also requires the use of expensive metal catalysts and ligands, not necessarily industrial, and which must be compatible with the cosmetic use of the synthesized C-glycosides (see for example"Recent advances in transition metal catalyzed glycosylation" ACS catal,, 3, 2(8), 1563-1595 (2012)). In addition, these synthetic routes do not allow obtaining sugar amides, esters or acids from the same reagent without having to use the protection and deprotection of hydroxy or amino groups. In addition, most of the reactions to obtain C-glycosides are carried out in solvents that are not always eco-compatible or difficult to use in industry. It is therefore desirable as much as possible to use cosmetically acceptable, eco-compatible solvents and in particular water.

[0017] Furthermore, during chronological and / or actinic aging, the dermis and epidermis undergo numerous modifications and degradations which result, with age, in flaccidity and a loss of skin suppleness.

[0018] Among the degraded elements (notably collagen and elastin), proteoglycans (also called PGs) and glycosaminoglycans (also called GAGs) are also altered. Indeed, during aging, fibroblasts and keratinocytes produce fewer and fewer PGs and GAGs and their synthesis is imperfect. This results in significant disorganization: the deposition of GAGs on the protein skeleton forming the PG is abnormal, which results in a reduction in tissue tone and therefore a loss of skin suppleness.

[0019] The compounds (I), and in particular the compounds (Ic) described below, used according to the invention also exhibit good skin desquamation activity.

[0020] The Applicant has surprisingly demonstrated that certain C-glycoside compounds with an amide, ester or acid group have anti-aging properties.

[0021] Furthermore, the applicant has found an easy means of synthesis to access a wide variety of C-glycosides, in particular by using a barbituric acid derivative and then an oxidizing agent such as hydrogen peroxide or a hydrogen peroxide generating system. This method is compatible with sugar units with unprotected hydroxy and possibly amino functions.

[0022] The subject of the present invention is therefore the cosmetic use of a C-glycoside compound of formula (I) as defined below as an anti-aging agent.

[0023] The invention also relates to new compounds of formula (I) as defined below.

[0024] The compounds (I) And (I‴) allow the treatment of keratinous materials and in particular the skin in particular to reduce and / or delay the signs of aging of the skin and / or its appendages.

[0025] The invention also relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular of the skin, comprising the application to said materials, comprising a cosmetic composition comprising at least one compound of formula (I) Or (I‴).

[0026] By " skin ", we mean the skin of the face and / or body, the scalp.

[0027] By " annexes ", we mean eyelashes, eyebrows, nails, and hair, especially eyelashes and hair.

[0028] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the composition is intended for topical administration on keratin materials such as the skin.

[0029] The compounds (I) And (I‴) in particular help to prevent and / or treat the signs of skin aging.

[0030] Among the cutaneous signs of aging, we can cite in particular a loss of firmness and / or elasticity and / or tone and / or suppleness of the skin, the formation of wrinkles and fine lines, expression lines, in particular on the forehead and the space between the eyebrows, perioral wrinkles and / or fine lines, and / or sagging around the lips, in particular on the white lip (area between the upper lip and the nose), a dull appearance of the complexion, the papery appearance of the skin.

[0031] Compounds (I) and (I‴) advantageously exhibit an activity of stimulating the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans and thus make it possible to prevent and / or treat the signs of skin aging, in particular the loss of firmness and / or elasticity and / or tone and / or suppleness of the skin.

[0032] A first subject of the invention is a process for treating keratin materials, using at least one cosmetic composition comprising at least one compound of formula (I) next: as well as their solvates such as hydrates, their optical, geometric, tautomeric isomers and their basic or acid salts, organic or mineral, formula (I) in which: S* denotes a monosaccharide chosen from D-glucose, D-xylose, L-rhamnose, D-mannose, D-galactose or a disaccharide chosen from D-lactose, D-maltose and D-cellobiose; said mono or disaccharide radical being linked to the rest of the molecule by a bond between the carbon atom C 1 of one of the sugars of said mono or polysaccharide radical, this bond possibly being anomeric α or β; X represents an oxygen atom; R' represents a hydrogen atom; Rrepresents a group chosen from: i) hydroxy; and ii) amino - NR 1 R 2 with R 1 and R 2 , identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom, a (C 1 -C 18 )alkyl group; preferably C 1 -C 16 alkyl such as methyl, n-propyl, n-hexyl, n-tetradecyl (nC 14 ).

[0033] Another object of the invention is the use of compounds of formula (I) as defined above and preferably the use of compounds of formula (I‴) for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials as well as their solvates such as hydrates, their optical, geometric, tautomeric isomers and their basic or acid salts, organic or mineral,

[0034] Formula (I‴) in which S*, And R are as defined above and R' denotes a hydrogen atom.

[0035] For the purposes of the present invention, and unless otherwise indicated: saturated or unsaturated cycles, possibly condensed, can also be possibly substituted; the radicals " alkyl » are saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radicals, generally C 1 -C 18 , particularly C 1 -C 10 , preferably C 1 -C 6 alkyl radicals; as C 1 -C 14 alkyl group, mention may in particular be made of methyl, ethyl, isopropyl, n-propyl, n-butyl, t-butyl, isobutyl, sec-butyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, n-hexyl, n-heptyl and octyl groups;

[0036] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the compounds of formula (I) are such that, taken together or separately, R' represents a hydrogen atom and / or Rrepresents a hydroxy or amino group -N(H)-R', with R' 1 representing a C 1 -C 16 alkyl group, preferably methyl, n-propyl, n-hexyl, n-tetradecyl and / or X represents an oxygen atom.

[0037] It is understood that for compounds of formula (I) as previously defined when S* represents a monosaccharide radical then it can be found in pyranose form (the sugar heterocycle which constitutes it has 6 members) or furanose form (the sugar heterocycle which constitutes it has 5 members); and when S*represents a disaccharide radical it comprises the chain of 2 identical or different saccharides which can be in furanose or pyranose form. Preferably the disaccharide which results from the chain of a saccharide unit in furanose form and a unit in pyranose form or the chain of a saccharide unit in pyranose form and a unit in furanose form; whether for the monosaccharide or polysaccharide radical each saccharide unit can be in levorotatory L form or dextrorotatory D form, and in anomeric α or β form.

[0038] Especially, S* represents a monosaccharide selected from D-glucose, D-xylose, L-xylose, and L-rhamnose.

[0039] Preferably, S* represents a sugar chosen from glucose, xylose and lactose. Preferably, S* means glucose or xylose. In particular, S*refers to D-glucose or D-xylose.

[0040] More preferably, S* refer to glucose. In particular, S* refers to D-glucose.

[0041] According to a particular embodiment the radical S* represents a disaccharide chosen from D-lactose, D-cellobiose, D-maltose.

[0042] According to a particular embodiment R preferably represents a group N(H)R 1 and more particularly N(H)CH 3 .

[0043] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the compounds of formula (I) are such that R represents an amino group - NR 1 R 2 with R 1 and R 2 , identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom, (C 1 -C 18 )alkyl, linear or branched; preferably C 1 -C 16 alkyl such as methyl, n-propyl, n-hexyl, n-tetradecyl (nC 14 ).

[0044] According to one embodiment of the invention, the compounds(I) are compounds of formula (Ia) (amide compounds): as well as their solvates such as hydrates, their optical, geometric, tautomeric isomers and their base or acid salts, organic or mineral, Formula (Ia) in which S* , R 1 , And R 2 are as defined above.

[0045] Preferably, S* denotes a sugar chosen from D-glucose, D-xylose, L-rhamnose, D-mannose, D-galactose, D-lactose.

[0046] Preferably, R 1 represents a hydrogen atom; R 2 represents a C 1 -C 18 alkyl radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably C 1 -C 16 such as methyl, n-propyl, n-hexyl, n-tetradecyl.

[0047] More preferably, R 1 represents a hydrogen atom; R 2 represents a linear or branched C 1 -C 5 alkyl radical, such as methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, n-butyl, n-pentyl.

[0048] Particularly S* denotes a sugar chosen from glucose, xylose, rhamnose, mannose, galactose, lactose; R 1 represents a hydrogen atom; R 2 denotes a linear or branched C 1 -C 18 alkyl radical; more particularly R 2 denotes a linear or branched C 1 -C 16 alkyl radical; preferentially R 2 denotes a radical chosen from methyl, n-propyl, n-hexyl, n-tetradecyl.

[0049] Preferably S* denotes a sugar chosen from glucose; R 1 represents a hydrogen atom; R 2 denotes a linear or branched C 1 -C 18 alkyl radical; more particularly R 2 denotes a linear or branched C 1 -C 16 alkyl radical; preferentially R 2 denotes a radical chosen from methyl, n-propyl, n-hexyl, tetradecyl.

[0050] For the compounds (la) described previously, R 2 preferably represents a methyl or propyl radical and preferentially a methyl radical.

[0051] As an example of compounds of formula (Ia), in particular, the following compounds can be cited: Compound S* = D-Glucose 1 2 3 4 Compound S* = L-Xylose 5 6 7 8 Compound S* = L-Rhamnose 9 10 11 12 Compound S* = D-mannose 13 14 15 16 Compound S* = D-galactose 17 18 19 20 Compound S* = D-lactose 21 22 23 24 as well as their solvates such as hydrates, and their basic or acid salts, organic or mineral.

[0052] Compounds 1, 2, 5, 6, 9, 10, 13, 14, 17, 18, 21, 22 described above are particularly preferred.

[0053] According to a second embodiment according to the invention, the compounds (I) are compounds of formula (Ic) (acid compounds: as well as their solvates such as hydrates, their optical, geometric, tautomeric isomers and their base or acid salts, organic or mineral, Compound of formula (Ic) in which S* is as defined above. As a compound (Ic) the following compounds can be cited: Compound S* = D glucose 4 9 S* = D galactose 50 S* = D mannose 51 S* = D xylose 52 S* = L rhamnose 53 Compound S* = D-lactose 54 as well as their solvates such as hydrates, and their basic or acid salts, organic or mineral,

[0054] Acceptable solvates of the compounds used in the present invention include conventional solvates such as those formed during the last step of preparation of said compounds due to the presence of solvents. For example, solvates due to the presence of water (hydrates) or linear or branched alcohols such as ethanol or isopropanol may be mentioned.

[0055] Salts of compounds (I)which comprise at least one acid function may be chosen from metal salts, for example aluminum (Al 3+< ), zinc (Zn 2+< ), manganese (Mn 2+< ) or copper (Cu 2+< ), alkali salts, for example lithium (Li +< ), sodium (Na +< ) or potassium (K +< ), or alkaline earth salts, for example calcium (Ca 2+< ) or magnesium (Mg 2+< ). They may also be ammonium derivatives of formula NH 4 +< or organic salts such as ammoniums of formula Y 3 NH +< , NY 3 denoting an organic amine, the Y radicals being identical or different, two or three Y radicals being able to form two by two a cycle with the nitrogen atom which carries them or NY 3 being able to denote an aromatic amine.Organic amines are, for example, alkylamines, such as, for example, methylamine, dimethylamine, trimethylamine, triethylamine or ethylamine, or hydroxyalkylamines, such as, for example, 2-hydroxyethylamine, bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)amine or tri-(2-hydroxyethyl)amine, or cycloalkylamines, such as, for example, bicyclohexylamine or glucamine, piperidine, or pyridines and the like, for example, collidine, quinine or quinoline, or amino acids of basic character, such as, for example, lysine or arginine; The salts of the compounds of formula (I) which comprise at least one amine function can also be salified by an organic acid such as citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, acetic acid, formic acid, trifluoroacetic acid, hydrochloric acid, glycolic acid, or malic acid.

[0056] In the case where the compounds according to the invention are in salt form, the cations are of course present in a quantity ensuring the electroneutrality of the compounds of formula (I).

[0057] The mineral salts of the compounds of formula (I) according to the invention may advantageously be chosen from the metal salts Cu 2+< , Mn 2+< and Zn 2+< , the alkali salts Li +< , Na +< and K +< and the alkaline earth salts Ca 2+< and Mg 2+< .

[0058] According to another variant, the organic salts of the compounds of formula (I) according to the invention may advantageously be chosen from ammoniums, preferably from salts of amino acids of basic nature such as for example lysine or arginine or from salts of diethanolamine or triethanolamine.

[0059] Preferably, the compounds (I) are in the form of sodium salts Na +< .

[0060] Preferably, the compounds (I)are in the form of potassium salts K +< .

[0061] Preferably, the compounds (I) are in the form of calcium salts Ca 2+< .

[0062] The invention also relates to the new compounds of formula (I) for which: S* represents a monosaccharide sugar radical chosen from: glucose, galactose, mannose, xylose, rhamnose, or a disaccharide chosen from: lactose, maltulose; said radical S* comprising one or more radicals -OR s and optionally one or two -NHR' radicals, said mono or disaccharide radical being linked to the rest of the molecule by a bond between the carbon atom C 1< of the sugar or one of the sugars and this bond being able to be anomeric α or β; X represents an oxygen or sulfur atom, preferably oxygen; R' represents: i) a hydrogen atom; Rrepresents a group chosen from: i) hydroxy; iv) amino NR 1 R 2 with R 1 and R 2 independently denoting a hydrogen atom, a (C 1 -C 16 )alkyl radical such as methyl, n-propyl, n-hexyl, n-tetradecyl; R s represents a hydrogen atom when S* represents a mannose, R' represents a hydrogen atom, then R is different from a diethylamino group N(Et) 2 .

[0063] As new compounds (I) we can cite compounds 1 to 24 and 49 to 54 described previously.

[0064] Preferably the new compounds are the new compounds (I) for which R = -NR1R2 as defined previously.

[0065] Preferred novel compounds are compounds 1 to 24 described previously. More preferred novel compounds are compounds 1, 2, 5, 6, 9, 10, 13, 14, 17, 18, 21, 22 described previously.

[0066] The present invention also relates to a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a compound of formula (I) as described above. The composition is in particular a cosmetic composition.

[0067] According to an advantageous form of the invention, the cosmetic composition contains at least one compound of formula (I) as defined above and at least one additive chosen from a perfume, a thickening agent, a surfactant, a pigment, a colorant, a preservative.

[0068] More particularly, the cosmetic composition according to the invention contains at least one compound chosen from compounds 1 to 24 and 49 to 54 defined above, as well as their solvates such as hydrates, and their base or acid salts, organic or mineral,

[0069] The compound of formula (I) (each compound of formula (I) if the composition comprises several) may be present in the composition, in an amount which may be between 0.01 and 10% by weight, preferably between 0.1 and 5% by weight, in particular between 0.5 and 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0070] The invention also relates to a method for cosmetic treatment of the skin, comprising the application to the skin of a composition comprising at least one compound of formula (I) as defined above.

[0071] In particular, the treatment process aims to prevent the signs of skin aging.

[0072] Preferably, the treatment method aims to treat the signs of skin aging.

[0073] It also relates to a cosmetic skin treatment process intended to prevent and / or treat aging comprising at least one step consisting of applying to skin showing signs of cutaneous aging at least one composition comprising a compound of formula (I) as defined above.

[0074] In particular, the method according to the invention aims to improve the radiance and / or uniformity of the complexion; improve the radiance and / or transparency of the skin; improve the softness, suppleness and / or elasticity of the skin; and / or prevent and / or reduce wrinkles and / or fine lines.

[0075] The compounds of formula (I) are particularly useful as agents for combating the signs of aging, in particular chronobiological aging, of the skin.

[0076] The present invention also relates to the use of at least one compound of formula (I), one of its salts or one of their solvates, for the preparation of a composition intended to combat the signs of aging, in particular chronobiological aging, of the skin. It also relates to the use of at least one compound of formula (I) as defined above in a cosmetic composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, as an agent intended to combat the signs of aging of the skin.

[0077] The present invention also relates to the use of a compound or composition according to the invention for combating the signs of aging, in particular chronobiological aging, of the skin.

[0078] The compounds or compositions according to the invention are in particular intended for the correction of all skin re-epithelialization disorders.

[0079] For this purpose, we will use in particular the compounds of formula (I) such as: S* represents a monosaccharide sugar radical chosen from: glucose, galactose, mannose, xylose, rhamnose; or a disaccharide chosen from: lactose, cellobiose, maltose; said mono or disaccharide radical being linked to the rest of the molecule by a bond between the carbon atom C 1< of the sugar or one of the sugars and this bond being able to be anomeric α or β; X represents an oxygen atom; R' represents: i) a hydrogen atom; R represents a group chosen from: i) hydroxy; ii) amino NR 1 R 2 with R 1 and R 2 independently denoting a hydrogen atom, a (C 1 -C 16 )alkyl radical such as methyl, n-propyl, n-hexyl, n-tetradecyl;

[0080] According to another variant, a compound of formula (I) will be used in particular such that S*denotes a monosaccharide sugar radical chosen from: glucose, galactose, mannose, xylose, rhamnose; or a disaccharide chosen from: lactose, cellobiose, maltose; said mono or disaccharide radical being linked to the rest of the molecule by a bond between the carbon atom C 1< of the sugar or one of the sugars and this bond being able to be anomeric α or β; X denotes an oxygen atom; R' denotes i) a hydrogen atom; R denotes a group chosen from: i) hydroxy; ii) amino NR 1 R 2 with R 1 and R 2 independently denoting a hydrogen atom, a (C 1 -C 16 )alkyl radical such as methyl, n-propyl, n-hexyl, n-tetradecyl;

[0081] More particularly, a compound chosen from compounds 1 to 24, and 49 to 54 defined previously, as well as their solvates such as hydrates, and their base or acid salts, organic or mineral, will be used.

[0082] The compounds or compositions according to the invention are particularly suitable for combating the signs of chronobiological aging of the epidermis. During chronobiological aging, the thickness of the epidermis is reduced, with cell divisions decreasing in number. By facilitating cell multiplication, particularly of epidermal cells, its regeneration is facilitated and the skin has a younger appearance.

[0083] The compounds or compositions according to the invention are in particular intended to prevent or reduce wrinkles and fine lines, and / or thinning of the skin and / or the appearance of soft and / or withered skin. The present invention thus also relates to the use of at least one compound according to the invention in a cosmetic composition for preventing or reducing wrinkles and fine lines, and / or thinning of the skin and / or the appearance of soft and / or withered skin.

[0084] The composition further comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, which is preferably a cosmetically or pharmaceutically, in particular dermatologically, acceptable medium, i.e. without unpleasant odor, color or appearance, and which does not generate tingling, tightness or redness unacceptable to the user. In particular, the composition is suitable for topical application to the skin and appendages.

[0085] A physiologically acceptable environment means an environment compatible with human skin and appendages.

[0086] The composition according to the invention can then comprise all the adjuvants usually used in the field of application envisaged.

[0087] Examples include water; organic solvents, especially C1-C6 alcohols and C2-C10 carboxylic acid esters; carbonaceous and / or silicone oils of mineral, animal and / or vegetable origin; water, waxes, pigments, fillers, dyes, surfactants, emulsifiers, co-emulsifiers; cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients, UV filters, polymers, hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, thickeners, preservatives, perfumes, bactericides, odor absorbers, antioxidants.

[0088] These possible adjuvants may be present in the composition at a rate of 0.001 to 80% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0089] The composition according to the invention may constitute a makeup composition, or preferably a skin care composition, and in particular a cleansing, protective, treatment or care cream for the face, for the hands, for the feet, for the large anatomical folds or for the body (for example day creams, night creams, makeup remover creams, foundation creams, anti-sun creams); a fluid foundation, a makeup remover milk, a protective or care body milk, an anti-sun milk; a lotion, gel or mousse for skin care, such as a cleansing lotion, a hair composition.

[0090] The composition according to the invention is advantageously an anti-aging composition, in particular a care composition, intended to treat and / or combat, cosmetically, the external signs of skin aging; the composition is more particularly a care composition for mature skin.

[0091] The invention is illustrated in more detail by the following non-limiting examples. EXAMPLES Example 1: Synthesis of compound 1

[0092]

[0093] Step 1. In a 250 mL single-necked flask, D-glucose (5 g), dissolved in water (56 mL), is introduced. 1,3-Dimethylbarbituric acid (4.33 g) is added with stirring, then NaHCO 3 is added until pH 7. After neutralization, the flask is equipped with a condenser and the mixture is heated at 80 °C for 5 h. The reaction is monitored by TLC in 1:1 DCM / MeOH. The reaction mixture is concentrated under vacuum. The residue obtained is taken up in water then precipitated in acetone, filtered and the solid obtained is dried under vacuum. Orange powder, 9.3 g, yield 98%. The 1< H NMR and mass spectrometry spectra are in agreement with the expected structure.

[0094] Step 2.5 g of the product obtained in step 1 are diluted in 10 mL of water at room temperature, then 30% H 2 O 2 (3 mL) are added. The reaction mixture is stirred at room temperature for 2 days. The reaction is monitored by TLC in BuOH / AcOH / H 2 O (3 / 1 / 1). Then 0.21 equiv. of a 20% aqueous solution of sodium metabisulfite are added, and stirring is continued for 1 h at room temperature. The absence of peroxide is checked, then the reaction mixture is poured into 300 mL of ethanol. The precipitate formed is filtered, and the filtrate concentrated to a minimum volume. The second fraction of solid is collected and the two fractions are dried under vacuum at 30 °C (1.6 g). The filtrate is again taken up in ethanol, the precipitate formed is filtered, and the filtrate concentrated to dryness to give another fraction of product (0.8 g). White solid, 2.4 g, yield 65%. 1< H / 13< C NMR and mass spectrometry spectra are consistent with the expected structure. Example 2: Synthesis of compound 5

[0095]

[0096] Step 1. Following the process described in Example 1, the intermediate is obtained from D-xylose. Yield 70%.

[0097] Step 2. 5 g of the product obtained in step 1 are diluted in 80 mL of acetonitrile at ta 7 mg (0.0012 eq) of EDTANa 2 previously diluted in 46 mL of water (C = 4.10 -4 < M) are added. The mixture is placed in an ice bath and then 13 mL of acetone is poured into it. The Oxone (25.2 g, 2.5 eq) / NaHCO 3 (10.5 g, 8 eq) mixture is slowly added to the reaction medium (approximately two spatulas every 10 minutes). The pH variations must be monitored at each addition. The solution becomes white. The mixture obtained is filtered on a Büchner funnel then the solvent is evaporated on a rotary evaporator and the product dried under vacuum. White powder, 3.38 g, yield 93%. The 1< H / 13< C NMR and mass spectrometry spectra are consistent with the expected structure. Example 3: Synthesis of compound 9

[0098]

[0099] Step 1. Following the process described in Example 1, the intermediate is obtained from L-rhamnose (3.4 g, 20.8 mmol). Yield 99%.

[0100] Step 2. Following the method described in Example 2, the compound 9 crude is obtained after filtration (5.5 g).

[0101] Step 3. A mixture of the compound 9crude (5.5 g, 20.8 mmol) and NaOAc.3H 2 O (4.24 g, 31.2 mmol) in 100 ml of Ac 2 O (acetic anhydride) is stirred at 100 °C for 16 h. After cooling, the mixture is poured into 160 ml of an ice / water bath and extracted 3 times with diethyl ether. The organic phases are combined, washed three times with sat. NaHCO 3 and five times with H 2 O. The solvent is evaporated under vacuum, and the residue obtained is purified by chromatography on silica (20% ethyl acetate in hexane), then recrystallized from ethanol to give 4.74 g of acetylated intermediate in the form of a white solid, yield 53% (2 steps). The 1< H NMR and mass spectrometry spectra are in agreement with the expected structure.

[0102] Step 4.A mixture of the product obtained in step 3 (4.74 g, 11 mmol) and K 2 CO 3 (3.04 g, 22 mmol) in 80 ml of methanol is stirred at rt for 16 h. Then IR-120 ion exchange resin (12 g) washed in absolute methanol is added. Then the mixture is stirred for 30 min, and the resin is removed by filtration. The solvent is evaporated in vacuo to give 2.2 g of compound 9 pure in the form of a white solid, yield 85%. The 1< H / 13< C NMR and mass spectrometry spectra are consistent with the expected structure. Example 4: Synthesis of compound 13

[0103]

[0104] Following the method described in Example 3, the compound 13 is obtained from D-mannose (5.85 g, 32.5 mmol). White solid, 2.8 g, yield steps 1+2+3 = 68%, yield step 4 = 86%. The 1< H / 13< C NMR and mass spectrometry spectra are consistent with the expected structure. Example 5: Synthesis of compound 17

[0105]

[0106] Following the method described in Example 3, the compound 17 is obtained from D-galactose (5 g, 27.8 mmol). White solid, 2.4 g, yield steps 1+2+3 = 53%, yield step 4 = 83%. The 1< H / 13< C NMR and mass spectrometry spectra are consistent with the expected structure. Example 6: Synthesis of compound 21

[0107]

[0108] Following the method described in Example 3, the compound 21 is obtained from D-lactose (6.2 g, 17 mmol). White solid, 3 g, yield steps 1+2+3 = 56%, yield step 4 = 83%. The 1< H / 13< C NMR and mass spectrometry spectra are consistent with the expected structure. Example 7: Synthesis of compound 49

[0109]

[0110] Step 1. To a solution of NaOH (4 g, 100 mmol) in 50 ml of water is added the compound 1(2.56 g, 10 mmol). After stirring at 100 °C for 5 h, the reaction mixture is adjusted to pH ~4 by the addition of an ion exchange resin. The resin is then removed by filtration. The filtrate is concentrated to obtain 2.3 g of the acid salt as a gray solid, yield quant. The 1< H NMR and mass spectrometry spectra are consistent with the expected structure.

[0111] Step 2. A mixture of the salt obtained in step 1 (3.3 g, 12.6 mmol), benzyl bromide (2.6 g, 15.2 mmol), 12.6 ml of n-Bu 4 NF in 1 M solution in THF, and 20 ml of DMF, is stirred at rt for 16 h. The mixture is then concentrated to dryness. The residue is purified by silica column chromatography (dichloromethane / methanol = 10 / 1) to give 2.4 g of the benzyl ester in the form of a white solid, yield 58%. The 1 < H NMR spectra and mass spectrometry are in agreement with the expected structure. Step 3. To a solution of the ester obtained in step 2 (950 mg, 2.9 mmol) in 20 ml of methanol is added 50 mg of Pd / C. The mixture is stirred at rt under H 2 for 16 h. After filtration, the filtrate is concentrated to dryness to give 720 mg of compound 49 in the form of a white solid, yield quant. The 1< H / 13< C NMR and mass spectrometry spectra are consistent with the expected structure. Example 8: Synthesis of compound 2

[0112]

[0113] Step 1.A mixture of the acid salt described in Example 7 (2.5 g, 10 mmol), AcONa (2 g, 10 mmol), and 20 ml of Ac 2 O is stirred at 110 °C for 16 h. Then the mixture is concentrated to dryness. The residue is taken up in 200 ml of sat. aq. NaHCO 3 and extracted 3 times with ethyl acetate. The organic phases are combined, concentrated under vacuum, and the residue obtained is purified by chromatography on silica (petroleum ether / ethyl acetate = 2 / 1) to give 1.9 g of the lactone intermediate in the form of a white solid, yield 50%. The 1< H NMR and mass spectrometry spectra are in agreement with the expected structure.

[0114] Step 2. A mixture of the lactone obtained in step 1 (1.9 g, 5 mmol) and 10 ml of propylamine is stirred at 60 °C for 16 h. The mixture is then concentrated to dryness. The residue obtained is recrystallized from ethyl acetate to give 1.1 g of compound 2as a pale yellow solid, yield 80%. The 1< H / 13< C NMR and mass spectrometry spectra are consistent with the expected structure. Example 9: Synthesis of compound 3

[0115]

[0116] Following the method described in Example 8, the compound 3 is obtained from the lactone intermediate (2.5 g, 6 mmol) and 10 ml of n-hexylamine, after 16 h at 100 °C. Recrystallization from ethyl acetate. Pale yellow solid, 1.6 g, yield 83%. The 1< H / 13< C NMR and mass spectrometry spectra are consistent with the expected structure. Example 10: Synthesis of compound 4

[0117]

[0118] Following the method described in Example 8, the compound 4is obtained from the lactone intermediate (1 g, 2.57 mmol) and n-tetradecylamine (2.8 g, 12.85 mmol), after 6 h at 150 °C. Recrystallization from ethyl acetate. Pale yellow solid, 0.9 g, yield 81%. The 1< H / 13< C NMR and mass spectrometry spectra are consistent with the expected structure. Example 11 : Biological activity of compounds 1 And 4

[0119] Normal human keratinocytes (NHEK) were seeded and cultured in culture medium for 24 hours and then in test medium for another 24 hours. After incubation, the medium was replaced with test medium containing or not (control) the test compounds or the references and the cells were incubated for 48 hours. All experimental conditions were carried out in n=3. After incubation, the culture medium was removed and the cells were rinsed, fixed and permeabilized. GLUT-1 expression was determined by immunostaining. GLUT-1 expression vs. 100% control Compound 1 (10 µM) Reference metformin 2 mM 159% (p<0.05) 252% (p<0.01) GLUT-1 expression vs. 100% control Compound 4 (10 µM) Reference metformin 2 mM 142% (p<0.01) 296% (p<0.001)

[0120] GLUT-1 protein expression is very significantly stimulated by the compounds 1 And 4. Example 12

[0121] An anti-aging skin gel is prepared comprising (% by weight): compound of example 1 2% hydroxypropylcellulose (Klucel H from Hercules) 1% perfume, preservative qs isopropanol 40% water qsp 100%

[0122] A similar composition is prepared with the compound of Example 2.

[0123] Example 13 : Studies of the effect of compounds (I) on the synthesis of total glycosaminoglycans in normal human epidermal keratinocytes: The study is carried out by measuring the incorporation of radioactive glucosamine into the matrix neosynthesized by cultures of normal human epidermal keratinocytes. The incorporation of radioactive [ 3< H]-glucosamine indicates a specific neosynthesis of total glycosaminoglycans.

[0124] The test is carried out on cultures of normal human epidermal keratinocytes in 96-well plates and cultivated in culture medium for 24 hours: Culture medium: Keratinocytes-SFM supplemented with Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF) 0.5 ng / ML, Pituitary extract 25 µg / ml, Gentamycin 25 µg / ml Culture conditions: 37 °C; 5% CO 2 The medium was then replaced with culture medium containing or not (control) the compound (I) tested or the references 4-Nitrophenyl-BD-xylopyranoside (tested at 300 µM) and 4-methylumbelliferyl-BD-xylopyranoside (tested at 54 µM) or the solvent control (DMSO at 0.1%) then the cells were incubated for 72 hours with addition of the marker [ 3< H]-glucosamine during the last 24 hours of incubation.

[0125] The test was performed with 3 assays for each compound tested, at concentrations of 1, 10, 100 and 300 µM.

[0126] At the end of the incubation, glycosaminoglycans were extracted from the cells with a chaotropic buffer. The level of incorporated radioactive glucosamine is measured at the end of the test by adsorption of the anionic molecules on Q-sepharose beads followed by desorption of the low and medium anionic molecules with 6M urea plus 0.2M NaCl. Once washed, the radioactivity incorporated into the highly cationic molecules remaining on the support is counted.

[0127] The results were evaluated relative to a control consisting of cells not treated with compound (I).

[0128] A positive control (TGFβ at 0.25 ng / ml) known to stimulate GAG ​​synthesis was introduced into the test as a positive reference.

[0129] The results are presented in the following table: Treatment Average value sd n % P Witness 15109 892 3-3 100 -- 4-nitrophenyl β-D-xylopyranoside 31280 544 3 207 < 0,001 4-methylumbelliferyl-β-D-xylopyranoside 32202 670 213 < 0,001 Solvent control (DMSO 0.1%) 17863 932 3-3 118 > 0,05 Compound 1 1 µM 21591 293 3 125 0,01<p<0,05 10 µM 20216 709 3 117 p>0.05 100µM 20451 898 3 118 p>0.05 300µM 16850 2070 3 97 p>0.05 Compound 2 1 µM 14638 838 3 110 p>0.05 10 µM 16779 1032 3 126 0,01<p<0,05 100µM 16435 2319 3 123 p>0.05 300µM 16929 1865 3 127 p>0.05 Compound 5 1 µM 17792 1030 3 134 0,01<p<0,05 10 µM 16133 1949 3 121 p>0.05 100µM 15835 2289 3 119 p>0.05 300µM 15495 2171 3 116 p>0.05 Compound 9 1 µM 16162 2008 3 120 p>0.05 10 µM 15439 985 3 114 p>0.05 100µM 17655 2224 3 131 p>0.05 300µM 22845 400 3 169 < 0,001 Compound 13 1 µM 16090 1523 3 119 p>0.05 10 µM 17340 598 3 129 0,001<p<0,01 100µM 18139 2075 3 134 p>0.05 300µM 18804 301 3 139 p>0.05 Compound 17 1 µM 17387 815 3 129 0.01<p<0,05 10 µM 16614 699 3 123 0.01<p<0,05 100µM 17861 945 3 132 0.01<p<0,05 300µM 14498 1047 3 108 p>0.05 Compound 21 1 µM 18416 1507 3 142 0.01<p<0,05 10 µM 17611 717 3 136 0.01<p<0,05 100µM 17796 1682 3 137 p>0.05 300µM 17429 665 3 134 0.01<p<0,05 Measured values ​​are given in counts per minute (cpm) sd: standard deviation p: confidence interval n: replicates

[0130] These results show that: Compounds 1 and 5 stimulate the incorporation of radioactive glucosamine at a concentration of 1 µM; Compounds 2 and 13 stimulate the incorporation of radioactive glucosamine at a concentration of 10 µM; Compound 9 stimulates the incorporation of radioactive glucosamine at a concentration of 300 µM; Compound 17 stimulates the incorporation of radioactive glucosamine at concentrations of 1 and 10 and 100 µM; Compound 21 stimulates the incorporation of radioactive glucosamine at concentrations of 1 and 10 and 300 µM.

[0131] Thus, the tested compounds (I) stimulate the incorporation of radioactive glucosamine, which indicates a neosynthesis of glycosaminoglycans.

Claims

1. Process for treating keratin materials, in particular the skin, in particular for treating the signs of skin aging, comprising the application to said materials of at least one cosmetic composition comprising one or more compounds of formula (I) below and also the solvates thereof such as hydrates, the optical and geometric isomers and tautomers thereof and the organic or mineral base or acid salts thereof; in which formula (I): - S* denotes a monosaccharide chosen from D-glucose, D-xylose, L-rhamnose, D-mannose and D-galactose or a disaccharide chosen from D-lactose, D-maltose and D-cellobiose, said monosaccharide or disaccharide radical being connected to the rest of the molecule by a bond between the C1 carbon atom of one of the sugars of said monosaccharide or disaccharide radical, this bond possibly being α or β anomeric; - X represents an oxygen atom; - R' represents a hydrogen atom; - R represents a group chosen from: i) hydroxyl; and ii) amino - NR1R2 with R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom, a (C1-C18)alkyl group, preferably C1-C16 alkyl group such as methyl, n-propyl, n-hexyl, n-tetradecyl (n-C14).

2. Process according to the preceding claim, wherein the compound(s) of formula (I) comprise(s) a sugar radical S* which represents a sugar chosen from D-glucose, L-xylose and D-lactose; more particularly, S* denotes D-glucose or D-xylose; more preferentially, S* denotes D-glucose.

3. Process according to either one of the preceding claims, wherein the compound(s) of formula (I) comprise(s) a radical R which represents an amino group - NR1R2 with R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom, linear or branched C1-C14 alkyl such as methyl, n-propyl, n-hexyl, or n-tetradecane (n-C14); preferably, the compound (I) is of formula (Ia): and also the solvates thereof such as hydrates, the optical isomers and tautomers thereof and the organic or mineral base or acid salts thereof, in which formula (Ia), R1 and R2 are as defined above, S* is as defined in either one of Claims 1 and 2.

4. Process according to either one of Claims 1 and 2, wherein the compound(s) of formula (I) comprise(s) a radical R which represents a hydroxyl group, preferably the compound (I) is of formula (Ic): and also the solvates thereof such as hydrates, the optical and geometric isomers and tautomers thereof and the organic or mineral base or acid salts thereof, with S* being as defined in either one of Claims 1 and 2.

5. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the compound(s) of formula (I) is (are) chosen from the following compounds: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 11 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 39 49 50 51 52 53 54 and also the solvates thereof such as hydrates, and the organic or mineral base or acid salts thereof.

6. Cosmetic composition comprising at least one compound of formula (I) as defined in any one of the preceding claims, preferably at least one compound of formula (I) chosen from (Ia) and (Ic) as defined in Claims 3 or 4 and compounds 1 to 39 and 49 to 54 as defined in the preceding claim, it preferably being understood that the compound(s) of formula (I) is (are) such that S* represents a mannose and R' represents a hydrogen atom, then R is other than a diethylamino group N(Et)2.

7. Compound of formula (I) wherein: - S* represents a monosaccharide sugar radical chosen from: glucose, galactose, mannose, xylose and rhamnose, or a disaccharide chosen from: lactose and maltulose; said radical S* comprising one or more radicals -ORs and optionally one or two radicals -NHR's, said monosaccharide or disaccharide radical being connected to the rest of the molecule by a bond between the C1 carbon atom of the sugar or one of the sugars and this bond possibly being α or β anomeric; - X represents an oxygen atom; - R' represents: i) a hydrogen atom; - R represents a group chosen from: i) hydroxyl; ii) amino NR1R2 with R1 and R2 independently denoting a hydrogen atom, a (C1-C16)alkyl radical such as methyl, n-propyl, n-hexyl or n-tetradecyl, Rs represents a hydrogen atom, when S* represents a mannose and R' represents a hydrogen atom, then R is other than a diethylamino group N(Et)2.

8. Compounds according to Claim 7, chosen from: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 49 50 51 52 53 54 and also the solvates thereof such as hydrates, and the organic or mineral base or acid salts thereof.

9. Compounds according to Claim 7 or 8, characterized in that they are chosen from the compounds for which R = -NR1R2;10. Compounds according to one of Claims 7, 8 or 9, chosen from: 1 2 5 6 9 10 13 14 17 18 21 22 and also the solvates thereof such as hydrates, and the organic or mineral base or acid salts thereof.

11. Non-therapeutic use, of compound (I) as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 5, preferably at least one compound of formula (I) chosen from (Ia) and (Ic), as defined in Claims 3 or 4 and compounds 1 to 39 and 49 to 54 as defined in Claim 5; for decreasing and / or delaying the signs of aging of the skin and / or skin appendages.