Oxidative hair treatment agent with a controlled heat development based on environmentally friendly contents

Abstract

The invention relates to oxidative hair treatment agents, in particular bleaching powder and bleaching pastes, comprising a content of biodegradable complexing agents which do not have a strong heating effect even when used on hair with a high metal or heavy metal content, thus gently lightening the hair or dyeing the hair in a lightening manner.

Description

[0001] “Oxidative hair treatment with controlled heat development based on environmentally friendly ingredients”

[0002] The present invention relates to oxidative hair treatment agents, in particular bleaching powders and bleaching pastes, containing a biodegradable complexing agent, which do not heat up too much even when applied to hair with a higher metal or heavy metal content and thus gently lighten or dye the hair.

[0003] Furthermore, the present invention relates to the use of the agents for gentle bleaching or oxidative lightening or for lightening coloring of human hair and to a multi-component packaging unit (kit of parts) for lightening or lightening coloring of keratin fibers, which comprises an oxidative hair treatment agent and, separately therefrom, an oxidizing agent preparation.

[0004] Furthermore, a method for oxidative lightening or lightening coloring of keratin fibers using said oxidative hair treatment agent and the kit comprising this oxidative hair treatment agent is described.

[0005] The oxidative hair treatment agent according to the invention is a substantially anhydrous oxidizing agent preparation containing at least one persalt. The substantially anhydrous oxidative hair treatment agent is preferably in powder or paste form.

[0006] Lightening one's hair color has always been a desire of many consumers, as blonde hair is considered attractive and fashionable. For this purpose, various bleaching agents with varying bleaching power are available on the market. The oxidizing agents contained in these products are capable of lightening the hair fiber through the oxidative destruction of the hair's natural pigment, melanin. For a moderate bleaching effect, the use of hydrogen peroxide – optionally with the addition of ammonia or other alkalizing agents – as the oxidizing agent alone is sufficient. To achieve a stronger bleaching effect, a mixture of hydrogen peroxide and at least one compound selected from persalts, in particular peroxodisulfate salts and / or peroxomonosulfate salts, is usually used.To enhance the bleaching effect, the products contain higher concentrations of hydrogen peroxide and persalts, especially persulfates. Dark, dark brown, or black hair can be lightened by 4 to 6 shades in a single step. The hydrogen peroxide and the persalt-containing hair treatment product are stored separately until ready to use to prevent premature deactivation of the persalts. The hydrogen peroxide component, which comprises an aqueous solution of hydrogen peroxide, has an acidic pH to stabilize the hydrogen peroxide, in particular a pH of 1.5 to 5.5, especially 3 to 5, measured at 20°C.

[0007] However, for the melanin-degrading effect of the hydrogen peroxide and the bleaching effect on the keratin fiber, it is advantageous if the application mixture of hydrogen peroxide solution and persalt-containing hair treatment agent has an alkaline pH value in the range from 8.0 to 11.5, preferably in the range from 8.5 to 11.0, particularly preferably 9.0 - 10.5, extremely preferably 9.5 - 10.0, in each case measured at 20°C.

[0008] To establish an alkaline pH of the lightening application mixture, preferred oxidative hair treatment agents according to the invention can contain, in addition to the at least one persalt, at least one powdered alkalizing agent in a total amount such that the application mixture has the desired alkaline pH. Alternatively, a third composition can be added to the application mixture of the oxidative hair treatment agent according to the invention and hydrogen peroxide solution, which third composition contains one or more alkalizing agents in an amount such that the application mixture has an alkaline pH in the range from 8.0 to 11.5, preferably in the range from 8.5 to 11.0, particularly preferably 9.0-10.5, extraordinarily preferably 9.5-10.3, in each case measured at 20°C.

[0009] By adding oxidation dye precursors and / or direct dyes to the oxidative hair treatment product, the hair can be colored simultaneously. Such hair dyes are offered especially for consumers with very dark, melanin-rich hair.

[0010] One requirement for the oxidative hair treatment agent according to the invention was to cause as little damage to the hair as possible, despite the harsh chemical conditions prevailing during oxidative bleaching, without compromising the quality of the bleaching. The active ingredients used for this purpose should be as environmentally friendly as possible.

[0011] The use of complexing agents in higher concentrations to reduce hair damage during oxidative hair treatment was already known from WO2002089754A1, WO2002074272A1, and WO2002074273A1. EP1714634A1 discloses a hair treatment kit for coloring human hair, comprising a first compartment containing a complexing agent and a second compartment containing a coloring agent. The complexing agent is intended to prevent undesirable reactions on and with hair that lead to undesirable heating of the agent during the preparation of the application mixture and its contact time on the hair.

[0012] Many bleaching products on the market contain HEDP (1-hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid, etidronic acid) or its salts, or EDTA (ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid) or its salts, as complexing agents. Both HEDP and EDTA effectively stabilize hydrogen peroxide and complex existing metal ions so efficiently that an undesirable temperature increase during use is virtually completely avoided. A major disadvantage of HEDP and EDTA, however, is their poor biodegradability. Especially recently, consumers have become increasingly aware of the ecological profile of the cosmetic products they use. Consumers therefore prefer the most sustainable cosmetics possible, with biodegradable ingredients.

[0013] The use of substances of natural origin as complexing agents is also already known in the prior art. For example, FR2852834A1 discloses agents for bleaching, coloring, or styling hair that contain a combination of at least one oxidizing agent and at least one polyhydroxycarboxylic acid. Even though the polyhydroxycarboxylic acids of FR2852834A1 are readily biodegradable, the performance properties of the agents described in this document still require improvement, particularly with regard to heat development, which is particularly unfavorable in the presence of gluconic acid and its salts, and with regard to bleaching performance.

[0014] EP1602356A1 discloses decolorizing agents or bleaching agents containing the biodegradable complexing agent ethylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid in combination with a persulfate.

[0015] However, the application properties of the agents disclosed in the aforementioned documents still require improvement, and the bleaching performance, in particular, cannot yet be considered optimal. The temperature development occurring during application to the hair also requires further optimization.

[0016] Another problem that can occur during the preparation of a bleaching agent is the swelling of the application mixture of the bleaching agent and the hydrogen peroxide-containing developer. Excessive foam development due to the presence of certain surfactants can also be problematic, especially if the bleaching agent is not applied to the entire head of hair, but when only individual strands of hair are bleached. When bleaching highlights, the strands coated with the ready-to-use bleaching agent are often wrapped in foil, or the strands are wrapped in foil coated with the bleaching agent. The swelling of the agent and the development of foam reduce the contact surface of the bleaching agent with the hair, thus impairing the bleaching result.

[0017] The object of the present invention was to find oxidative hair treatment agents, in particular bleaching agents or agents for oxidative color change, with biodegradable complexing agents that are as superior as possible to the bleaching or lightening agents known from the prior art in terms of their bleaching performance. Furthermore, the bleaching agents should possess sufficiently high stability and not heat up excessively, even when applied to hair with a higher metal or heavy metal content. Furthermore, the swelling and / or foaming of the ready-to-use lightening or bleaching agent should be contained as much as possible during the contact time on the hair. Surprisingly, these objects were achieved by the subject matter of the claims. The complexing agents b)i), b)ii), and b)iii) are described as biodegradable and therefore represent an ecologically advantageous replacement for HEDP and EDTA.Surprisingly, it has been found that the bleaching performance could also be significantly improved by using these special complexing agents (b) in the agent according to the invention.

[0018] According to the invention, keratin-containing or keratinic fibers are understood to mean, in particular, human hair, but also fur, wool and feathers.

[0019] A first aspect of the present invention is an oxidative hair treatment agent for lightening or for lightening the hair, comprising a) at least one oxidizing agent selected from the inorganic salts of a peroxosulfuric acid, as well as mixtures of these salts, b) furthermore at least one complexing agent selected from b) i) complexing agents of the general formula (I), where

[0020] R1 represents a hydrogen atom, a Ci-Ce-alkyl group, a hydroxy-C2-Ce-alkyl group, a carboxy-Ci-Ce-alkyl group or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof,

[0021] R2, R3 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a Ci-Ce-alkyl group, a hydroxy-C2-C6-alkyl group, a carboxy-Ci-Ce-alkyl group or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof, where R2 and R3 do not simultaneously represent a

[0022] hydrogen atom and not simultaneously a carboxy-Ci-Ce-alkyl group,

[0023] M1 , M2 independently represent a hydrogen atom or an alkali metal ion, preferably sodium, potassium, or an ammonium ion (NH4 + ) and b) ii) complexing agents of the general formula (II) where R4, R5 independently of one another represent a carboxy-Ci-Ce-alkyl group or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof, a hydrogen atom, a Ci-Ce-alkyl group or a hydroxy-C2-Ce-alkyl group, and m represents an integer from 0 to 6, and n represents an integer from 0 to 6, and

[0024] M1, M2 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom or an alkali metal ion, preferably sodium, potassium, or an ammonium ion (NF ), b) iii) ethylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid or at least one alkali metal salt or ammonium salt of this acid, c) furthermore at least one amino acid selected from alpha-amino acids, beta-amino acids and the salts of an alpha-amino acid or beta-amino acid, and mixtures of these substances, d) furthermore polyquaternium-4 and e) 0 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably 0.5 to 5% by weight of water, in each case based on the weight of the oxidative hair treatment agent, wherein no polymer is present which comprises acrylic acid, acrylic acid amides, acrylic acid esters, methacrylic acid, methacrylic acid amides and / or methacrylic acid esters as monomer.

[0025] The oxidative hair treatment agent, which is essentially anhydrous with 0 to 10 wt.% water, is preferably in powder, tablet, granulated or paste form.

[0026] According to the invention, the term “powder” or “powdery” is to be understood as meaning a free-flowing dosage form consisting of individual particles which is solid at 20 °C and 1013 mbar and in which the individual particles have particle sizes in the range from 0.1 pm to a maximum of 1.6 mm. The particle size distribution can preferably be determined by means of laser diffraction measurement in accordance with ISO 13320-1 (2009). If necessary, the particles can be adapted in their grain size to the requirements of the bleaching powder by physical treatment, such as sieving, pressing, granulating or pelletizing, or by the addition of certain excipients, in order to enable, for example, better miscibility of the individual powder components or miscibility of the bleaching powder with a hydrogen peroxide preparation.

[0027] Bleaching powders preferred according to the invention have a bulk density in the range of 400 to 1000 g / l (grams / liter), preferably 450 to 900 g / l, particularly preferably 550 to 820 g / l. The bulk density is preferably determined according to EN ISO 60 (version 01 / 2000) or DIN ISO 697 (version 01 / 1984).

[0028] Unless otherwise stated, all temperature specifications refer to a pressure of 1013 mbar.

[0029] The oxidative hair treatment agent according to the invention can also be in tablet form. For this purpose, a bleaching powder according to the invention is preferably pressed into a tablet. The oxidative hair treatment agent according to the invention can also be in granule form. For this purpose, a bleaching powder according to the invention is preferably processed into granules.

[0030] According to the invention, the terms “paste” or “paste-like” are to be understood as meaning a dosage form which, at 20 °C and 1013 mbar, has a viscosity in the range from 200,000 to 1,600,000 mPas, preferably 250,000 to 1,400,000 mPas, particularly preferably 300,000 to 1,000,000 mPas, extraordinarily preferably 400,000 to 750,000 mPas.

[0031] Paste viscosity is preferably determined using a Brookfield RVDV II+ instrument, spindle no. 96, 4 revolutions per minute, at 20°C.

[0032] The oxidative hair treatment agent according to the invention contains as a first essential component at least one oxidizing agent selected from the inorganic salts of a peroxosulfuric acid and mixtures thereof.

[0033] Peroxosulfuric acids include peroxodisulfuric acid and peroxomonosulfuric acid (Caro's acid).

[0034] Preferably, the at least one inorganic salt of a peroxosulfuric acid is selected from ammonium peroxodisulfate, ammonium peroxomonosulfate, alkali metal peroxodisulfates, alkali metal peroxomonosulfates, and alkali metal hydrogen peroxomonosulfates. Particular preference is given to potassium peroxodisulfate, sodium peroxodisulfate, ammonium peroxodisulfate, and potassium hydrogen peroxomonosulfate, as well as mixtures thereof. Furthermore, it has proven particularly preferred in the work on the present invention for the oxidative hair treatment agent according to the invention to contain at least two different peroxodisulfates. Preferred peroxodisulfate salts are potassium peroxodisulfate-ammonium peroxodisulfate mixtures, potassium peroxodisulfate-ammonium peroxodisulfate-sodium peroxodisulfate mixtures, and potassium peroxodisulfate-sodium peroxodisulfate mixtures.Particularly preferred are mixtures of potassium peroxodisulfate and ammonium peroxodisulfate, and extremely preferred are mixtures of potassium peroxodisulfate and ammonium peroxodisulfate with an excess of potassium peroxodisulfate, which are free of sodium peroxodisulfate. Particularly preferred mixtures of potassium peroxodisulfate (KPS) and ammonium peroxodisulfate (APS) according to the invention, which are free of sodium peroxodisulfate, are those with a KPS / APS weight ratio in the range of 4:1-2:1, preferably 3.5:1-2.5:1, particularly preferably 3.2:1-2.8:1.

[0035] Preferred oxidative hair treatment agents according to the invention contain at least one oxidizing agent selected from inorganic salts of a peroxosulfuric acid and mixtures thereof, in a total amount of 5-85 wt.%, preferably 10-70 wt.%, particularly preferably 17-55 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 22-45 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidative hair treatment agent. The oxidative hair treatment agent according to the invention contains, as a second essential component, at least one complexing agent b) selected from b) i) complexing agents de where

[0036] R1 represents a hydrogen atom, a Ci-Ce-alkyl group, a hydroxy-C2-Ce-alkyl group, a carboxy-Ci-Ce-alkyl group or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof,

[0037] R2, R3 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a Ci-Ce-alkyl group, a hydroxy-C2-C6-alkyl group, a carboxy-Ci-Ce-alkyl group or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof, where R2 and R3 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom and a carboxy-Ci-Ce-alkyl group,

[0038] M1 , M2 independently represent a hydrogen atom or an alkali metal ion, preferably sodium, potassium, or an ammonium ion (NH4 + ) and b) ii) complexing agents of the general formula (II) where

[0039] R4, R5 independently of one another represent a carboxy-Ci-Ce-alkyl group or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof, a hydrogen atom, a Ci-Ce-alkyl group or a hydroxy-C2-Ce-alkyl group, and m represents an integer from 0 to 6, and n represents an integer from 0 to 6, and

[0040] M1 , M2 independently represent a hydrogen atom or an alkali metal ion, preferably sodium, potassium, or an ammonium ion (NH4 + ), b) iii) ethylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid or at least one alkali metal salt or ammonium salt of this acid. In a further embodiment of the invention, the oxidative hair treatment agent according to the invention contains, as a second essential component, at least one complexing agent b) i), selected from complexing agents of the general formula (I), where

[0041] R1 represents a hydrogen atom, a Ci-Ce-alkyl group, a hydroxy-C2-Ce-alkyl group, a carboxy-Ci-Ce-alkyl group or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof,

[0042] R2, R3 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a Ci-Ce-alkyl group, a hydroxy-C2-Ce-alkyl group, a carboxy-Ci-Ce-alkyl group or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof, where R2 and R3 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom and a carboxy-Ci-Ce-alkyl group, and

[0043] M1 , M2 independently represent a hydrogen atom or an alkali metal ion, preferably sodium, potassium, or an ammonium ion (NH4 + ) stand.

[0044] The following are examples of the substituents R1, R2 and R3 mentioned in formula (I) which are particularly suitable according to the invention. Examples of C1-C8 alkyl radicals are -CH3, -CH2CH3, -CH2CH2CH3, -CH(CH3)2, -CH2CH(CH3)2, -CH(CH3)CH2CH3, -C(CH3)3, -(CH2)4CH3, -(CH2)SCH3. Particularly preferred C1-C8 alkyl radicals are methyl and ethyl; an extraordinarily preferred C1-C8 alkyl radical is methyl. Examples of C1-C8 hydroxyalkyl groups are -CH2OH, -CH2CH2OH, -CH2CH2CH2OH, -CH2CH(OH)CH3, -CH2CH2CH2CH2OH, with -CH2CH2OH being preferred.

[0045] Examples of carboxy-Ci-Ce-alkyl groups are HOOC-CH2-, HOOC-CH2-CH2-, HOOC-CH2-CH2-CH2-, HOOC-CH2-CH2-CH2-CH2-, with the group HOOC-CH2- being extremely preferred according to the invention.

[0046] In the complexing agents of the general formula (I), the radical R1 represents a hydrogen atom, a Ci-Ce-alkyl group, a hydroxy-C2-Ce-alkyl group, a carboxy-Ci-Ce-alkyl group or a physiologically acceptable salt of a carboxy-Ci-Ce-alkyl group.

[0047] Physiologically acceptable salts are salts that can be used in cosmetics under physiological conditions without adverse effects. Examples of physiologically acceptable salts of a carboxy-Ci-Ce-alkyl group include the sodium salt, the potassium salt, and the ammonium salt of the carboxy-Ci-Ce-alkyl group.

[0048] A particularly strong improvement in terms of reduced heat development and bleaching performance was observed with those agents according to the invention which contained at least one complexing agent (a) of the general formula (I) in which the radical R1 stands for a carboxy-Ci-Ce-alkyl group or for a physiologically acceptable salt thereof, preferably for a carboxymethyl group or for a physiologically acceptable salt thereof, particularly preferably for the sodium salt of a carboxymethyl group.

[0049] In a particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one complexing agent (b) i) of the general formula (I), wherein

[0050] R1 represents a carboxy-Ci-Ce-alkyl group or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof, preferably a carboxymethyl group or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof, particularly preferably the sodium salt of a carboxymethyl group.

[0051] In the complexing agents of the general formula (I), the radicals R2 and R3 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a Ci-Ce-alkyl group, a hydroxy-C2-Ce-alkyl group, a carboxy-Ci-Ce-alkyl group or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof, where R2 and R3 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom and do not simultaneously represent a carboxy-Ci-Ce-alkyl group.

[0052] Furthermore, in bleaching tests, particularly good results were achieved with regard to the lightening performance and the reduced heat development when at least one complexing agent (b) i) of the formula (I) was used in the agent according to the invention, in which one of the radicals R2 or R3 represents a hydrogen atom and the other of the radicals R2 or R3 represents a methyl group.

[0053] In a particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one complexing agent (b) i) of the general formula (I), in which one of the radicals R2 or R3 represents a hydrogen atom and the other of the radicals R2 or R3 represents a methyl group.

[0054] The best results in terms of brightening performance and reduced heat development were obtained with complexing agents (b) i) of formula (I), in which

[0055] R1 represents a carboxymethyl group or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof,

[0056] R2 represents a methyl group and

[0057] R3 represents a hydrogen atom. In a particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one complexing agent (b) i) of the general formula (I), where

[0058] R1 represents a carboxymethyl group or an alkali metal or ammonium salt thereof,

[0059] R2 represents a methyl group and

[0060] R3 stands for a hydrogen atom.

[0061] An explicitly particularly preferred complexing agent (b) i) of this embodiment is N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)-L-alanine, which can alternatively also be referred to as 2-methyl-2',2",2"'-nitrilotriacetic acid and is abbreviated as substance MGDA (methylglycinediacetic acid). MGDA has the CAS number 29578-05-0. MGDA has the formula (Ia). The alkali metal salts and ammonium salts of MGDA are also according to the invention. Trisodium methylglycine diacetate is particularly preferred.

[0062] MGDA possesses a stereogenic center. Both the D-form and the L-form, as well as a mixture of the D- and L-forms, are within the scope of the invention.

[0063] Particularly preferred oxidative hair treatment agents according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one complexing agent b)i), which is selected from complexing agents (b) i) of the formula (I) or an alkali metal or ammonium salt of this acid, is present in a total amount of 0.1 to 5.0 wt.%, preferably 0.5 to 3.0 wt.%, particularly preferably 1.0 to 2.0 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 1.4 - 1.6 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidative hair treatment agent according to the invention.

[0064] Further oxidative hair treatment agents which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one complexing agent b)i), which is selected from methylglycinediacetic acid and its alkali metal or ammonium salts, is present in a total amount of 0.1 to 5.0% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 3.0% by weight, particularly preferably 1.0 to 2.0% by weight, extraordinarily preferably 1.4 to 1.6% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the oxidative hair treatment agent.

[0065] Further oxidative hair treatment agents which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one complexing agent b)i), which is selected from the sodium salts of methylglycinediacetic acid, is present in a total amount of 0.1 to 5.0 wt.%, preferably 0.5 to 3.0 wt.%, particularly preferably 1.0 to 2.0 wt.%, extremely preferably 1.4 - 1.6 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidative hair treatment agent. Further oxidative hair treatment agents which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the trisodium salt of methylglycinediacetic acid is present in an amount of 0.1 to 5.0 wt.%, preferably 0.5 to 3.0 wt.%, particularly preferably 1.0 to 2.0 wt.%, extremely preferably 1.4 - 1.6 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidative hair treatment agent.

[0066] In a further embodiment of the invention, the oxidative hair treatment agent according to the invention contains as a second essential component at least one complexing agent b) ii) selected from complexing agents of the general formula (II), where

[0067] R4, R5 independently of one another represent a carboxy-Ci-Ce-alkyl group or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof, a hydrogen atom, a Ci-Ce-alkyl group or a hydroxy-O2-Ce-alkyl group, and m represents an integer from 0 to 6, and n represents an integer from 0 to 6, and

[0068] M1 , M2 independently represent a hydrogen atom or an alkali metal ion, preferably sodium or potassium, or an ammonium ion (NH4 + ) stand.

[0069] The following are examples of the substituents R4 and R5 mentioned in formula (II):

[0070] Examples of Ci-C eAlkyl radicals are -CH3, -CH2CH3, -CH2CH2CH3, -CH(CH3)2, -CH2CH(CH3)2, -CH(CH3)CH2CH3, -C(CH3)3, -(CH2)4CH3, -(CH2)SCH3. Particularly preferred alkyl radicals are methyl and ethyl. Examples of C1-C8 hydroxyalkyl groups are -CH2OH, -CH2CH2OH, -CH2CH2CH2OH, -CH2CH(OH)CH3, -CH2CH2CH2CH2OH, with -CH2CH2OH being preferred.

[0071] Examples of carboxy-Ci-Ce-alkyl groups are HOOC-CH2-, HOOC-CH2-CH2-, HOOC-CH2-CH2-CH2-, HOOC-CH2-CH2-CH2-CH2-, with the group HOOC-CH2- being preferred.

[0072] In the complexing agents of general formula (II), the radicals R4 and R5 independently of one another represent a carboxy-C1-C8-alkyl group or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof, a hydrogen atom, a C1-C8-alkyl group, or a hydroxy-C2-C6-alkyl group. Physiologically acceptable salts are understood to mean salts that can be used in cosmetics under physiological conditions without adverse effects. Examples of a physiologically acceptable salt of a carboxyl group are the sodium salt, the potassium salt, and the ammonium salt. Examples of a physiologically acceptable salt of a carboxy-C1-C8-alkyl group are, for example, the sodium salt, the potassium salt, and the ammonium salt of the carboxy-C1-C8-alkyl group.

[0073] A particularly strong reduction in heat tone was observed when using agents containing at least one complexing agent (b)ii) of the general formula (II), where the radicals R4 and R5 independently of one another represent a carboxy-Ci-Ce-alkyl group or an alkali metal salt or an ammonium salt thereof.

[0074] In a particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one complexing agent (b) of the general formula (II), where

[0075] R4, R5 independently of one another represent a carboxy-Ci-Ce-alkyl group or an alkali metal salt or an ammonium salt thereof.

[0076] Very particularly preferably, R4 and R5 independently represent a carboxy-Ci-Ce-alkyl group or an alkali metal salt or an ammonium salt thereof. Explicitly very particularly preferably, R4 and R5 independently represent a carboxymethyl group or an alkali metal salt or an ammonium salt of the carboxymethyl group.

[0077] Within the scope of an explicitly particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one complexing agent (b)ii) of the general formula (II), wherein

[0078] R4, R5 independently represent a carboxymethyl group or an alkali metal salt or an ammonium salt thereof.

[0079] Within the scope of an explicitly particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one complexing agent (b)ii) of the general formula (II), wherein

[0080] R4, R5 both represent a carboxymethyl group or an alkali metal salt or an ammonium salt thereof.

[0081] In the complexing agents of general formula (II), the index number m represents an integer from 0 to 6. The index number m indicates the number of methylene groups (i.e., the -CFh groups) located between the structural unit -COOM1 and the carbon atom bearing the group -NR1R2. Particularly good results were obtained when complexing agents of formula (II) were used in which m represents the number 0 or 1, most preferably the number 0.

[0082] In the complexing agents of general formula (II), the index number n represents an integer from 0 to 6. The index number n indicates the number of methylene groups (i.e., the -CH2 groups) located between the carbon atom bearing the -NR1 R2 group and the -COOM2 group. In this context, particularly good results were obtained when complexing agents of formula (II) were used in which n represents the number 0, 1, or 2, most preferably the number 2.

[0083] In a particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one complexing agent (b)ii) of the general formula (II), where m stands for the number 0 or 1, preferably for the number 0, and / or n stands for the number 0, 1 or 2, preferably for the number 2.

[0084] In a particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one complexing agent (b)ii) of the general formula (II), where m stands for the number 0 and n stands for the number 2.

[0085] If R4 and R5 independently represent a carboxymethyl group or an alkali metal salt or an ammonium salt thereof, m represents the number 0 and n represents the number 2, then the complexing agent (a) has the general structural formula (Ha).

[0086] In a particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one complexing agent (b)ii) of the general formula (I la), where

[0087] M1 , M2 independently represent a hydrogen atom or an alkali metal ion, preferably sodium or potassium, or an ammonium ion (NH4 +), and M3, M4 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom or an alkali metal ion, preferably sodium or potassium, or an ammonium ion (NF ). The preferred compound of formula (Ila) is glutamic acid-ZV, ZV-diacetic acid (GLDA).

[0088] To achieve the object of the invention, it has proven particularly advantageous if M1, M2, M3 and M4 independently of one another represent a sodium cation (Na + ) or for a potassium cation (K + ) stand.

[0089] In a particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one complexing agent (b)ii) of the general formula (I la), where

[0090] M1, M2 independently represent sodium or potassium, and M3, M4 independently represent sodium or potassium.

[0091] An explicitly particularly preferred complexing agent (b)ii) of this embodiment is tetrasodium- / V, / V-bis(carboxylatomethyl)-L-glutamate. Tetrasodium- / V, / V-bis(carboxylatomethyl)-L-glutamate falls under the formula (I1a), where M1, M2, M3, and M4 represent a sodium cation.

[0092] Tetrasodium (V,V-bis(carboxylatomethyl)-L-glutamate can also be referred to as glutamic acid (ZV), (ZV-diacetic acid tetrasodium salt. The L-form is called L-tetrasodium (V,V-bis(carboxylatomethyl)-L-glutamate) or (S)-glutamic acid (V,V-diacetic acid tetrasodium salt, AZ, Z-bis(carboxymethyl)-L-glutamic acid tetrasodium salt, or GLDA-Na4 for short, and has the CAS number 51981-21-6. The INCI name for this compound is Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate.

[0093] Glutamic acid-ZV, ZV-diacetic acid (GLDA) possesses a stereogenic center. Both the (S) and (R) forms (or both the L and D forms) are according to the invention.

[0094] Particularly preferred oxidative hair treatment agents according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one complexing agent b)ii), which is selected from complexing agents (b) ii) of the formula (II) or an alkali metal or ammonium salt of these complexing agents, is present in a total amount of 0.1 to 5.0 wt.%, preferably 0.5 to 3.0 wt.%, particularly preferably 1.0 to 2.0 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 1.4 - 1.6 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidative hair treatment agent according to the invention.

[0095] Further oxidative hair treatment agents which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one complexing agent b)ii), which is selected from glutamic acid-ZV, / V-diacetic acid and their alkali metal or ammonium salts, is contained in a total amount of 0.1 to 5.0% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 3.0% by weight, particularly preferably 1.0 to 2.0% by weight, extraordinarily preferably 1.4 - 1.6% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the oxidative hair treatment agent.

[0096] Further oxidative hair treatment agents which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one complexing agent b)ii), which is selected from the sodium salts of glutamic acid ZV, ZV-diacetic acid, is contained in a total amount of 0.1 to 5.0% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 3.0% by weight, particularly preferably 1.0 to 2.0% by weight, extraordinarily preferably 1.4 to 1.6% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the oxidative hair treatment agent.

[0097] Further oxidative hair treatment agents which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the tetrasodium salt of glutamic acid ZV, ZV-diacetic acid is contained in an amount of 0.1 to 5.0% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 3.0% by weight, particularly preferably 1.0 to 2.0% by weight, extraordinarily preferably 1.4 to 1.6% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the oxidative hair treatment agent.

[0098] Further oxidative hair treatment agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one salt of ethylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid is selected from the sodium salts, potassium salts, and ammonium salts, as well as from mixtures of these salts. Particularly preferred oxidative hair treatment agents according to the invention are characterized in that the complexing agent b)iii) is selected from the monosodium salt, the disodium salt, the trisodium salt, and the tetrasodium salt of ethylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid, as well as from mixtures thereof, with the trisodium salt and the tetrasodium salt of ethylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid being preferred, and the trisodium salt of ethylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid being particularly preferred.

[0099] Further oxidative hair treatment agents which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one complexing agent b)iii), which is selected from ethylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid or an alkali metal or ammonium salt of this acid, is present in a total amount of 0.1 to 5.0% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 3.0% by weight, particularly preferably 1.0 to 2.0% by weight, extraordinarily preferably 1.4 to 1.6% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the oxidative hair treatment agent according to the invention.

[0100] Further oxidative hair treatment agents which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one complexing agent b)iii), which is selected from the sodium salts of ethylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid, is present in a total amount of 0.1 to 5.0% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 3.0% by weight, particularly preferably 1.0 to 2.0% by weight, extraordinarily preferably 1.4 to 1.6% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the oxidative hair treatment agent.

[0101] Further oxidative hair treatment agents which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the trisodium salt of ethylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid is present in an amount of 0.1 to 5.0% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 3.0% by weight, particularly preferably 1.0 to 2.0% by weight, extraordinarily preferably 1.4 to 1.6% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the oxidative hair treatment agent.

[0102] The oxidative hair treatment agent according to the invention contains as a third essential component at least one amino acid selected from alpha-amino acids, beta-amino acids and the salts of an alpha-amino acid or beta-amino acid, as well as mixtures of these substances.

[0103] An amino acid is a chemical compound with an amino group and a carboxylic acid group. The class of amino acids includes organic compounds that contain at least one amino group (-NH2 or substituted -NR2) and one carboxyl group (-COOH) as functional groups, thus exhibiting structural features of amines and carboxylic acids. Chemically, they can be differentiated according to the position of their amino group relative to the carboxyl group. If the amino group on the amino atom is directly adjacent to the terminal carboxyl group, this is called alpha-position (α-position) and the compounds are referred to as alpha-amino acids (α-amino acids). If the amino group is located on the amino group beta-atom, as seen from the terminal carboxyl group, this is called beta-position (β-position) and the compounds are referred to as beta-amino acids (β-amino acids). Preferably, alpha-amino acids and beta-amino acids with a total number of C atoms from C2-C20, more preferably from C2-C15, particularly preferably from C2-C10 are included.

[0104] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one amino acid (c) from the group consisting of arginine, serine, histidine, lysine, asparagine, glutamine, cysteine, methionine, tryptophan, alanine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, glycine, isoleucine, leucine, phenylalanine, proline, threonine, tyrosine, valine and taurine, the salts of the aforementioned amino acids and mixtures of these substances.

[0105] Amino acids (c) which are particularly preferred according to the invention are selected from the group consisting of arginine, serine, the salts of the aforementioned amino acids and mixtures of these substances.

[0106] Extraordinarily preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one amino acid (c) selected from the group consisting of arginine, serine, the salts of the aforementioned amino acids and mixtures of these substances.

[0107] Chiral amino acids possess a stereogenic center and can occur in mirror-image forms. For example, arginine occurs in the form of L-arginine and D-arginine. Both the L-form of an amino acid and its D-form, as well as mixtures thereof, are encompassed by the present invention. Within the scope of the present invention, both possible enantiomers can be used equally as a specific compound or as mixtures thereof, particularly as racemates. However, it is particularly advantageous to use the naturally occurring isomer form, usually the L-configuration.

[0108] Accordingly, a particularly preferred agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one amino acid (c) from the group consisting of L-arginine, L-serine, L-histidine, L-lysine, L-asparagine, L-glutamine, L-cysteine, L-methionine, L-tryptophan, L-alanine, L-aspartic acid, L-glutamic acid, glycine, L-isoleucine, L-leucine, L-phenylalanine, L-proline, L-threonine, L-tyrosine and L-valine and taurine, the salts of the aforementioned amino acids and mixtures of these substances.

[0109] Further oxidative hair treatment agents which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one alpha-amino acid or beta-amino acid c) and / or its salt is contained in a total amount, converted to the mass of free amino acid, of 0.1 to 3.0% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 1.5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.3 to 0.6% by weight, extraordinarily preferably 0.4 - 0.5% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the oxidative hair treatment agent.

[0110] Oxidative hair treatment agents which are extraordinarily preferred according to the invention contain at least one alpha-amino acid c) selected from arginine, serine or at least one salt of these amino acids, in a total amount, converted to the mass of free amino acid, of 0.1 to 3.0% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 1.5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.3 to 0.6% by weight, extraordinarily preferably 0.4 - 0.5% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the oxidative hair treatment agent.

[0111] Oxidative hair treatment agents which are extraordinarily preferred according to the invention contain at least one amino acid selected from L-arginine, L-serine or at least one salt of these amino acids, in a total amount, converted to the mass of free amino acid, of 0.1 to 3.0% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 1.5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.3 to 0.6% by weight, extraordinarily preferably 0.4 - 0.5% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the oxidative hair treatment agent.

[0112] The oxidative hair treatment agent according to the invention contains polyquaternium-4 as its fourth essential ingredient. Polyquaternium-4 is hydroxyethylcellulose quaternized with diallyldimethylammonium chloride (INCI: Polyquaternium-4). Surprisingly, it has been found that polyquaternium-4 can very favorably influence the swelling behavior of the oxidative hair treatment agent according to the invention after mixing with an aqueous hydrogen peroxide preparation. Polyquaternium-4 is particularly preferably present in a total amount of 0.01 to 3.0 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 1.0 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.1 to 0.7 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 0.3-0.5 wt.%, based in each case on the weight of the oxidative hair treatment agent.

[0113] For the melanin-degrading effect of the hydrogen peroxide and the bleaching effect on the keratin fiber, it is advantageous if the application mixture of hydrogen peroxide solution and persalt-containing hair treatment agent has an alkaline pH value which is in the range of 8.0 to 11.5, preferably in the range of 8.5 to 11.0, particularly preferably 9.0 - 10.5, extremely preferably 9.5 - 10.3, in each case measured at 20°C.

[0114] To establish an alkaline pH of the lightening application mixture, preferred oxidative hair treatment agents according to the invention can contain, in addition to the at least one persalt, at least one powdered alkalizing agent in a total amount such that the application mixture has the desired alkaline pH. Alternatively, a third composition can be added to the application mixture of the oxidative hair treatment agent according to the invention and hydrogen peroxide solution, which third composition contains one or more alkalizing agents in an amount such that the application mixture has an alkaline pH in the range from 8.0 to 11.5, preferably in the range from 8.5 to 11.0, particularly preferably 9.0-10.5, extraordinarily preferably 9.5-10.3, in each case measured at 20°C.

[0115] Oxidative hair treatment agents preferred according to the invention are therefore characterized by containing at least one inorganic alkalizing agent that is solid at 20°C and 1013 mbar. Particularly preferred oxidative hair treatment agents according to the invention contain at least one inorganic alkalizing agent that is solid at 20°C and 1013 mbar in a total amount of 4-70 wt.%, preferably 10-65 wt.%, particularly preferably 15-60 wt.%, extremely preferably 20-55 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidative hair treatment agent.

[0116] Further oxidative hair treatment agents preferred according to the invention contain at least one inorganic alkalizing agent which is solid at 20 °C and 1013 mbar, including, in a total amount of 0.1 to 50 wt. %, preferably 4 to 30 wt. %, particularly preferably 15-25 wt. %, in each case based on the weight of the oxidative hair treatment agent, at least one sodium silicate or sodium metasilicate with a molar SiO2 / Na2O ratio of > 2, preferably 2.5-3.5.

[0117] In addition to the at least one sodium silicate or sodium metasilicate with a molar SiO2 / Na2O ratio of > 2, preferably 2.5-3.5, in a total amount of 0.1-50 wt.%, preferably 4-30 wt.%, particularly preferably 15-25 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidative hair treatment agent, as an optional alkalizing agent, further inorganic alkalizing agents which are particularly preferred according to the invention and are solid at 20 °C and 1013 mbar are selected from alkaline earth metal silicates, alkaline earth metal hydroxide carbonates, alkaline earth metal carbonates, alkaline earth metal metasilicates, alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline earth metal hydroxides, (alkali) earth metal phosphates and (alkali) earth metal hydrogen phosphates and mixtures of these substances.Particularly preferred inorganic alkalizing agents according to the invention, which are solid at 20°C and 1013 mbar, are, in addition to the at least one obligatory sodium silicate or sodium metasilicate, each with a molar SiO2 / Na2O ratio of > 2, preferably from 2.5 to 3.5, selected from magnesium hydroxide carbonates and mixtures of these alkalizing agents. Magnesium hydroxide carbonates preferred according to the invention are those with the formula MgCOs ■ Mg(OH)2 ■ 2 H2O and those with the formula MgCOs ■ Mg(OH)2. Magnesium hydroxide carbonate with the formula MgCOs ■ Mg(OH)2 is particularly preferred according to the invention.

[0118] Particularly preferred oxidative hair treatment agents according to the invention contain, in each case based on their total weight, 0.1 to 50 wt.%, preferably 4 - 30 wt.%, particularly preferably 15

[0119] - 25 wt.% sodium silicates with a molar SiO2 / Na2O ratio of > 2, preferably from 2.5 to 3.5, and 2 - 40 wt.%, preferably 5 - 35 wt.%, particularly preferably 10 - 32 wt.% magnesium hydroxide carbonate as inorganic alkalizing agents which are solid at 20 °C and 1013 mbar.

[0120] The oxidative hair treatment agents according to the invention are anhydrous, which in the sense of the present invention means that they contain, in each case based on their weight, 0 to 10 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 8 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.5 to 5 wt.% of water.

[0121] This information refers to the free water content. The content of molecularly bound water or water of crystallization, which individual powder components may contain, is not taken into account. The water content can be determined, for example, using Karl Fischer titration based on ISO 4317 (version 2011-12).

[0122] The oxidative hair treatment agents according to the invention are further characterized by not containing any polymer that comprises acrylic acid, acrylic acid amides, acrylic acid esters, methacrylic acid, methacrylic acid amides, and / or methacrylic acid esters as monomers. Such polymers can adversely affect the heat development in the ready-to-use bleaching agent.

[0123] For safety reasons, oxidative hair treatment products packaged as bleaching powders should be formulated in such a way that they produce little or no dust during use, especially before or during mixing with the liquid hydrogen peroxide solution. Suitable dust-reducing agents include oils mixed with the dust-generating components of the bleaching powder, with the total amount of oils being 0.2

[0124] - 20% by weight, based on the weight of the oxidative hair treatment agent according to the invention, which is in the form of bleaching powder.

[0125] If more than 20% by weight of oil is used, a paste forms with the anhydrous powdered components. Oxidative hair treatment agents according to the invention, which are in the form of bleaching pastes, contain, based on their weight, at least one oil in a total amount of 20.1-80% by weight, preferably 35-65% by weight.

[0126] Through careful selection of oils, the application properties of the oxidative hair treatment product as well as the entire ready-to-use lightening product can be optimized. When selecting oils, the consumer's desire for products that contain as few synthetically produced ingredients as possible and instead rely on naturally derived ingredients must also be taken into account. Oils of mineral origin, such as mineral oils and paraffins, exhibit good application properties and are inexpensive. In the interest of the sustainability of the entire product, oils from renewable raw materials can be used instead of oils of mineral origin. Surprisingly, it was discovered that certain oils can have a very positive effect on the swelling behavior of the oxidative hair treatment product according to the invention after mixing with an aqueous hydrogen peroxide preparation.Oxidative hair treatment agents preferred according to the invention contain, based on their weight, at least one oil in a total amount of 0.2 - 80 wt.%, preferably 1 - 70 wt.%, particularly preferably 4 - 60 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 5 - 20 wt.%.

[0127] According to the invention, the at least one oil is preferably selected from mineral oils, branched fatty alcohols having 8 - 24 carbon atoms, dialkyl ethers having 6 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl groups, and mixtures of the aforementioned substances.

[0128] Preferred branched fatty alcohols with 8-24 carbon atoms according to the invention are 2-octyl-1-dodecanol, 2-hexyl-1-decanol, 2-ethyl-1-hexanol, and isostearyl alcohol, as well as mixtures thereof. 2-octyl-1-dodecanol is extremely preferred.

[0129] Preferred dialkyl ethers according to the invention having 6 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl groups are di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of 12 to 36 C atoms, in particular 16 to 24 C atoms in the molecule, such as, for example, di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, di-n-octadecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether, and n-hexyl n-undecyl ether. Likewise preferred dialkyl ethers are those having branched alkyl groups each having 6 to 18 C atoms, in particular having alkyl groups substituted in the 2-position with an ethyl group. Preferred branched-chain dialkyl ethers with 6 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group are selected from di-(2-ethylhexyl) ether and di-(2-ethyldecyl) ether. Particularly preferred is di-n-octyl ether (INCI: Dicaprylyl ether), which is commercially available, for example, under the name Cetiol® OE from BASF.

[0130] Oxidative hair treatment agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, at least one oil selected from mineral oils, branched fatty alcohols having 8 - 24 carbon atoms, dialkyl ethers having 6 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl groups, and mixtures of the aforementioned substances, in a total amount of 0.2 - 80 wt.%, preferably 1 - 70 wt.%, particularly preferably 4 - 60 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 5 - 20 wt.%.

[0131] Oxidative hair treatment agents which are extraordinarily preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, at least one oil selected from mineral oils, branched fatty alcohols having 8 - 24 carbon atoms, dialkyl ethers having 6 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl groups, and mixtures of the aforementioned substances, in a total amount of 0.2 - 10 wt.%, preferably 1 - 7 wt.%, particularly preferably 4 - 6 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 5 - 5.5 wt.%.

[0132] Further oxidative hair treatment agents which are extraordinarily preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, at least one oil selected from mineral oils and 2-octyl-1-dodecanol and mixtures of the aforementioned substances, in a total amount of 0.2 - 10 wt.%, preferably 1 - 7 wt.%, particularly preferably 4 - 6 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 5 - 5.5 wt.%.

[0133] Further oxidative hair treatment agents which are extraordinarily preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, at least one oil selected from mineral oils and di-n-octyl ether and mixtures of the aforementioned substances, in a total amount of 0.2 - 10 wt.%, preferably 1 - 7 wt.%, particularly preferably 4 - 6 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 5 - 5.5 wt.%.

[0134] Furthermore, silicone oils are also suitable oils according to the invention. Ester oils, for example benzoic acid esters of linear or branched C8-22 alkanols, such as benzoic acid C12-C15 alkyl esters, furthermore triglycerides (i.e. triple esters of glycerol) of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated C8-30 fatty acids, preferably saturated triglyceride oils, in particular capric / caprylic triglycerides, as well as natural oils, e.g. amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, cottonseed oil, borage seed oil, safflower oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, hemp oil, hazelnut oil, elderberry seed oil, blackcurrant seed oil, jojoba oil, linseed oil, macadamia nut oil, corn germ oil, almond oil, marula oil, evening primrose oil, olive oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, Brazil nut oil, pecan nut oil, peach kernel oil, rapeseed oil, castor oil, sea buckthorn pulp oil, sea buckthorn kernel oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, walnut oil, wild rose oil,Wheat germ oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil, furthermore the dicarboxylic acid esters of linear or branched O2-C10-alkanols, such as diisopropyl adipate, di-n-butyl adipate, di-(2-ethylhexyl) adipate, dioctyl adipate, diethyl / di-n-butyl / dioctyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, dioctyl malate, dioctyl maleate, dicaprylyl maleate, diisooctyl succinate, di-2-ethylhexyl succinate and di-(2-hexyl decyl) succinate, furthermore esters of linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2-30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2-30 carbon atoms, which may be hydroxylated, which are preferably selected from 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-hexyl decyl laurate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate and 2-ethylhexyl stearate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, Isocetyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate,Isotridecyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, 2-butyl octanoic acid, diisotridecyl acetate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate, ethylene glycol dioleate and ethylene glycol dipalmitate, also C8-C22 fatty alcohol esters of monobasic or polybasic C2-C7 hydroxycarboxylic acids, in particular the esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid and salicylic acid, e.g. B. Ci2-Ci5-alkyl lactate, furthermore the symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with C3-C22-alkanols, C3-C22-alkanediols or C3-C22-alkanetriols, e.g. dicaprylyl carbonate, can also be used according to the invention as oil, but are less preferred due to the possible risk of hydrolysis or should only be used in small amounts of 0.1 to a maximum of 2 wt.%.based on the oxidative hair treatment agent according to the invention.

[0135] Surprisingly, it was found that an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salt of a C12-C24 monocarboxylic acid, which may be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, can very favorably influence the swelling behavior of the oxidative hair treatment agent according to the invention after mixing with an aqueous hydrogen peroxide preparation.

[0136] Further oxidative hair treatment agents which are extraordinarily preferred according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they contain at least one alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salt of a C12-C24 monocarboxylic acid, which may be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, wherein the C12-C24 monocarboxylic acid is preferably selected from lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid, erucic acid and brassidic acid and mixtures thereof, wherein stearic acid and palmitic acid and mixtures thereof are particularly preferred and wherein the potassium, magnesium and calcium salts of the C12-C24 monocarboxylic acid are extraordinarily preferred.In this context, potassium stearate, potassium palmitate, magnesium stearate, magnesium palmitate, calcium stearate, calcium palmitate, and mixtures of these substances are extremely preferred, with potassium stearate being particularly preferred. Further oxidative hair treatment agents that are extremely preferred according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they contain, in each case based on their weight, at least one alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salt of a C12-C24 monocarboxylic acid, which may be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, in a total amount of 0.05-1 wt.%, preferably 0.2-0.6 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.3-0.5 wt.%. Further oxidative hair treatment agents that are extremely preferred according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they contain, in each case based on their weight, potassium stearate in a total amount of 0.05-1 wt.%, preferably 0.2-0.6 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.3-0.5 wt.%.

[0137] Surprisingly, it was found that sodium hexametaphosphate can have a very favorable effect on the swelling behavior of the oxidative hair treatment agent according to the invention after mixing with an aqueous hydrogen peroxide preparation. Further oxidative hair treatment agents that are particularly preferred according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, 0.05-0.5 wt.%, preferably 0.2-0.4 wt.%, of sodium hexametaphosphate.

[0138] Surprisingly, it was found that kaolin can have a very favorable effect on the swelling behavior of the oxidative hair treatment agent according to the invention after mixing with an aqueous hydrogen peroxide preparation. Further oxidative hair treatment agents that are particularly preferred according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, 0.05-5% by weight, preferably 0.5-4% by weight, particularly preferably 1-2% by weight of kaolin.In a further preferred embodiment, the oxidative hair treatment agent according to the invention further contains at least one dicarboxylic acid having 2 to 10 carbon atoms, which is particularly preferably selected from succinic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, malic acid, D-tartaric acid, L-tartaric acid, meso-tartaric acid, grape acid, alpha-ketoglutaric acid, beta-ketoglutaric acid, oxaloacetic acid, maleic acid and fumaric acid and / or at least one salt of these acids and mixtures of these compounds, wherein the at least one dicarboxylic acid having 2 to 10 carbon atoms is extremely preferably selected from succinic acid, malic acid, malonic acid and maleic acid and salts thereof.

[0139] Preferred salts of the dicarboxylic acids having 2 to 10 carbon atoms according to the invention are selected from the mono- and disalts of the anions of succinic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, malic acid, D-tartaric acid, L-tartaric acid, meso-tartaric acid, grape acid, alpha-ketoglutaric acid, beta-ketoglutaric acid, oxaloacetic acid, maleic acid and fumaric acid with alkali metal ions, alkaline earth metal ions and the ions of basic amino acids, such as arginine, lysine and histidine, in particular with lithium, sodium, potassium, magnesium and calcium ions, as well as mixtures of these salts.

[0140] The succinic acid particularly preferred according to the invention has a melting point in the range of 185-187°C at 1013 mbar, thus being a solid at 20°C. Suitable salts of succinic acid according to the invention are selected from the succinates and hydrogen succinates of alkali metal ions, alkaline earth metal ions, and the ions of basic amino acids, such as arginine, lysine, and histidine, in particular lithium, sodium, potassium, magnesium, and calcium ions, or the succinates and hydrogen succinates of basic amino acids, such as arginine, lysine, and / or histidine, e.g., arginine succinate, as well as mixtures of these salts. The succinic acid salts mentioned may also contain bound water of crystallization, in particular sodium succinate hexahydrate, which is particularly preferred according to the invention.

[0141] The malic acid particularly preferred according to the invention is optically active. For cost reasons, racemic DL-malic acid is preferred. Suitable malic acid salts according to the invention are selected from the malates and hydrogen malates of alkali metal ions, alkaline earth metal ions, and the ions of basic amino acids, such as arginine, lysine, and histidine, in particular lithium, sodium, potassium, magnesium, and calcium ions, as well as mixtures of these salts, in particular disodium malate and dipotassium malate, but also calcium malate. The aforementioned malic acid salts suitable according to the invention may contain bound water of crystallization, in particular disodium malate hemihydrate and disodium malate trihydrate.

[0142] Salts of oxalic acid suitable according to the invention are selected from the oxalates and hydrogen oxalates of alkali metal ions, alkaline earth metal ions, and the ions of basic amino acids, such as arginine, lysine, and histidine, in particular lithium, sodium, potassium, magnesium, and calcium ions, as well as mixtures of these salts. Salts of the particularly preferred malonic acid suitable according to the invention are selected from the malates and hydrogen malates of alkali metal ions, alkaline earth metal ions, and the ions of basic amino acids, such as arginine, lysine, and histidine, in particular lithium, sodium, potassium, magnesium, and calcium ions, as well as mixtures of these salts.

[0143] Salts of adipic acid suitable according to the invention are selected from the adipates and hydrogen adipates of alkali metal ions, alkaline earth metal ions and the ions of basic amino acids, such as arginine, lysine and histidine, in particular of lithium, sodium, potassium, magnesium and calcium ions, as well as mixtures of these salts.

[0144] Salts of pimelic acid suitable according to the invention are selected from the pimelates and hydrogen pimelates of alkali metal ions, alkaline earth metal ions and the ions of basic amino acids, such as arginine, lysine and histidine, in particular of lithium, sodium, potassium, magnesium and calcium ions, as well as mixtures of these salts.

[0145] Salts of suberic acid suitable according to the invention are selected from the suberates and hydrogen suberates of alkali metal ions, alkaline earth metal ions and the ions of basic amino acids, such as arginine, lysine and histidine, in particular lithium, sodium, potassium, magnesium and calcium ions, as well as mixtures of these salts.

[0146] Salts of azelaic acid suitable according to the invention are selected from the azelates and hydrogen azelates of alkali metal ions, alkaline earth metal ions and the ions of basic amino acids, such as arginine, lysine and histidine, in particular of lithium, sodium, potassium, magnesium and calcium ions, as well as mixtures of these salts.

[0147] Salts of sebacic acid suitable according to the invention are selected from the sebacates and hydrogen sebacates of alkali metal ions, alkaline earth metal ions and the ions of basic amino acids, such as arginine, lysine and histidine, in particular of lithium, sodium, potassium, magnesium and calcium ions, as well as mixtures of these salts.

[0148] Salts of the particularly preferred maleic acid suitable according to the invention are selected from the maleates and hydrogen maleates of alkali metal ions and alkaline earth metal ions, in particular lithium, sodium, potassium, magnesium, and calcium ions, as well as mixtures of these salts. Salts of the preferred fumaric acid suitable according to the invention are selected from the fumarates and hydrogen fumarates of alkali metal ions and alkaline earth metal ions, in particular lithium, sodium, potassium, magnesium, and calcium ions, as well as mixtures of these salts.

[0149] Salts of the preferred D-tartaric acid suitable according to the invention are selected from the tartrates and hydrogen tartrates of alkali metal ions and alkaline earth metal ions, in particular lithium, sodium, potassium, magnesium and calcium ions, as well as mixtures of these salts.

[0150] Salts of the preferred L-tartaric acid suitable according to the invention are selected from the tartrates and hydrogen tartrates of alkali metal ions and alkaline earth metal ions, in particular lithium, sodium, potassium, magnesium and calcium ions, as well as mixtures of these salts.

[0151] Salts of the preferred meso-tartaric acid suitable according to the invention are selected from the tartrates and hydrogen tartrates of alkali metal ions and alkaline earth metal ions, in particular lithium, sodium, potassium, magnesium, and calcium ions, as well as mixtures of these salts. The particularly preferred tartaric acid according to the invention is the racemic mixture of D-tartaric acid and L-tartaric acid. Salts of tartaric acid suitable according to the invention are selected from the tartrates and hydrogen tartrates of alkali metal ions and alkaline earth metal ions, in particular lithium, sodium, potassium, magnesium, and calcium ions, as well as mixtures of these salts.

[0152] Salts of alpha-ketoglutaric acid suitable according to the invention are selected from the alpha-ketoglutarates and alpha-ketohydrogenglutarates of alkali metal ions and alkaline earth metal ions, in particular lithium, sodium, potassium, magnesium and calcium ions, as well as mixtures of these salts.

[0153] Salts of beta-ketoglutaric acid suitable according to the invention are selected from the beta-ketoglutarates and beta-ketohydrogenglutarates of alkali metal ions and alkaline earth metal ions, in particular of lithium, sodium, potassium, magnesium and calcium ions, as well as mixtures of these salts.

[0154] Salts of oxaloacetic acid suitable according to the invention are selected from the oxaloacetates and oxalohydrogenacetates of alkali metal ions and alkaline earth metal ions, in particular of lithium, sodium, potassium, magnesium and calcium ions, as well as mixtures of these salts.

[0155] Oxidative hair treatment agents preferred according to the invention contain at least one dicarboxylic acid having 2 to 10 carbon atoms, which is preferably selected from succinic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, malic acid, D-tartaric acid, L-tartaric acid, meso-tartaric acid, grape acid, alpha-ketoglutaric acid, beta-ketoglutaric acid, oxaloacetic acid, maleic acid and fumaric acid and / or at least one salt of these acids, in a total amount, converted to the mass of free dicarboxylic acid, of 0.2 to 4.0 wt.%, preferably 0.33 to 3.0 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.5 to 2.0 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 0.7 - 1.0 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidative hair treatment agent.

[0156] Further oxidative hair treatment agents preferred according to the invention contain succinic acid and / or at least one salt of succinic acid in a total amount, converted to the mass of free dicarboxylic acid, of 0.2 to 4.0 wt.%, preferably 0.33 to 3.0 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.5 to 2.0 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 0.7 - 1.0 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidative hair treatment agent.

[0157] Further oxidative hair treatment agents preferred according to the invention contain malic acid and / or at least one salt of malic acid in a total amount, converted to the mass of free dicarboxylic acid, of 0.2 to 4.0 wt.%, preferably 0.33 to 3.0 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.5 to 2.0 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 0.7 - 1.0 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidative hair treatment agent.

[0158] Further oxidative hair treatment agents preferred according to the invention contain malonic acid and / or at least one salt of malonic acid in a total amount, converted to the mass of free dicarboxylic acid, of 0.2 to 4.0 wt.%, preferably 0.33 to 3.0 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.5 to 2.0 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 0.7 - 1.0 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidative hair treatment agent.

[0159] Particularly preferred oxidative hair treatment agents according to the invention further contain at least one or more hydrophilic thickeners, which are preferably selected from polysaccharides that may be chemically and / or physically modified. Compounds from the group of polysaccharides are particularly preferred as hydrophilic thickeners according to the invention, since the basic structures of the polysaccharides are of natural origin and biodegradable. Preferred hydrophilic polysaccharide thickeners are selected from celluloses, cellulose ethers of C1-C4 alcohols, cellulose esters, xanthan gum, alginic acids (and their corresponding physiologically acceptable salts, the alginates), agar agar (with the polysaccharide agarose present in agar agar as the main component), starch fractions and starch derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, karaya gum, locust bean gum, gum arabic, pectins, dextrans and guar gum, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0160] Cellulose ethers of C1-C4 alcohols and cellulose esters preferred according to the invention are selected from methylcelluloses, ethylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses (such as hydroxyethylcellulose), methylhydroxyalkylcelluloses and carboxymethylcelluloses (such as those with the INCI name Cellulose Gum) and their physiologically acceptable salts.

[0161] In preferred embodiments, carboxymethylcellulose (preferably carboxymethylcellulose with the INCI name Cellulose Gum) is included as a hydrophilic thickener for reliable viscosity adjustment and residue-free application to keratin fibers and the scalp. In a preferred embodiment, carboxymethylcellulose can be included as the sole hydrophilic thickener. A combination of carboxymethylcellulose and hydroxyethylcellulose is particularly preferred.

[0162] A combination of carboxymethylcellulose and xanthan (preferably xanthan with the INCI name Xanthan Gum) may also be preferred according to the invention.

[0163] Particularly preferred oxidative hair treatment agents according to the invention contain at least one hydrophilic thickener in a total amount of 0.1 to 5 wt.%, preferably 0.5 to 4 wt.%, more preferably 1 to 3.5 wt.% and most preferably 2.5 to 3.4 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidative hair treatment agent.

[0164] In a further preferred embodiment of the present invention, the oxidative hair treatment agent according to the invention contains, in each case based on its weight, 0.1 to 4 wt.%, preferably 1 to 2.5 wt.%, of carboxymethylcellulose.

[0165] In a further preferred embodiment of the present invention, the oxidative hair treatment agent according to the invention contains, in each case based on its weight, 0.1 to 3 wt.%, preferably 0.2 to 1.0 wt.%, more preferably 0.25 to 0.5 wt.%, of hydroxyethylcellulose.

[0166] Furthermore, the oxidative hair treatment agents according to the invention or preferred according to the invention can contain at least one substantive dye. These are dyes that are absorbed directly into the hair and do not require an oxidative process to develop the color. To dull undesirable residual color impressions caused by melanin degradation products, particularly in the reddish or bluish range, certain substantive dyes of complementary colors are particularly preferably included. Substantive dyes are typically nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones, or indophenols. Substantive dyes can be anionic, cationic, or nonionic. The substantive dyes are each preferably present in an amount of 0.001 to 2% by weight, based on the weight of the oxidative hair treatment agent.

[0167] Preferred anionic direct dyes are the compounds known under the international names or trade names Acid Yellow 1, Yellow 10, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 52, Pigment Red 57:1, Acid Blue 7, Acid Green 50, Acid Violet 43, Acid Black 1, Acid Black 52, Bromophenol Blue and Tetrabromophenol Blue. Preferred cationic direct dyes are cationic triphenylmethane dyes, for example Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Violet 2 and Basic Violet 14, aromatic systems substituted with a quaternary nitrogen group, such as Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17, cationic anthraquinone dyes, such as HC Blue 16 (Bluequat B) and direct dyes containing a heterocycle having at least one quaternary nitrogen atom, in particular Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31 and Basic Red 51.The cationic direct dyes marketed under the trademark Arianor are also preferred cationic direct dyes according to the invention. Particularly suitable nonionic direct dyes are nonionic nitro and quinone dyes and neutral azo dyes. Preferred nonionic direct dyes are those known under the international designations "Arianor" and "Arianor" respectively.Handelsnamen HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, HC Orange 1 , Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 1 , HC Red 3, HC Red 10, HC Red 1 1 , HC Red 13, HC Red BN, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 11 , HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, HC Violet 1 , Disperse Violet 1 , Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9 bekannten Verbindungen, sowie 1 ,4-Diamino-2-nitrobenzol, 2-Amino-4-nitrophenol, 1 ,4-Bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-amino-2-nitro- benzol, 3-Nitro-4-(2-hydroxyethyl)aminophenol, 2-(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino-4,6-dinitrophenol, 4-[(2- Hydroxyethyl)amino]-3-nitro-1 -methylbenzol, 1-Amino-4-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-5-chlor-2-nitroben- zol, 4-Amino-3-nitrophenol, 1-(2'-Ureidoethyl)amino-4-nitrobenzol, 2-[(4-Amino-2-nitrophenyl)- amino]-benzoesäure, 6-Nitro-1 ,2,3,4-tetrahydrochinoxalin, 2-Hydroxy-1 ,4-naphthochinon, Pikramin- säure und deren Salze, 2-Amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-Ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoesäure und 2-Chlor-6-ethylamino-4-nitrophenol.According to the invention, a combination of Tetrabromophenol Blue and Acid Red 92 is particularly preferably included.

[0168] The present invention further provides a process for lightening or lightening coloring keratin fibers, in particular human hair, in which an oxidative hair treatment agent (B) according to the invention or preferred according to the invention is mixed with an oxidation composition (Ox) which, in each case based on its weight, contains 50 - 96 wt.%, preferably 70 - 93 wt.%, particularly preferably 80 - 90 wt.%, water and 0.5 - 20 wt.-% hydrogen peroxide and further contains at least one pH adjuster in an amount such that the oxidation composition has a pH in the range from 1.5 to 5.5, measured at 20°C, immediately thereafter applied to the keratin-containing fibers, left on the fibers for 5 to 60 minutes and then the fibers are rinsed with water and optionally washed out with a surfactant-containing cleaning agent, wherein the oxidative hair treatment agent (B) and the oxidation composition (Ox) are preferably mixed with one another in a weight-related ratio (B): (Ox) of 0.2-2, particularly preferably 0.3-1.5, further preferably 0.5-1.

[0169] The oxidizing composition (Ox) used in the brightening process according to the invention essentially contains water and hydrogen peroxide. The concentration of hydrogen peroxide is determined by legal requirements and the desired effect. It is 0.5-20 wt.%, preferably 3-12 wt.%, particularly preferably 6-9 wt.% hydrogen peroxide (calculated as 100% H2O2), in each case based on the weight of the oxidizing composition (Ox).

[0170] To stabilize the hydrogen peroxide, the oxidation composition (Ox) preferably has an acidic pH, in particular a pH in the range of 1.5 to 5.5, measured at 20°C. To stabilize the hydrogen peroxide, complexing agents, preservatives, stabilizers, and / or buffer substances are preferably also included.

[0171] According to the invention, the oxidative hair treatment agent (B) is preferably composed such that the mixture with the aforementioned oxidation composition (Ox), i.e. the ready-to-use lightening agent, in particular bleaching agent, has an alkaline pH, preferably a pH of 8.0 to 11.5, preferably in the range of 8.5 to 11.0, particularly preferably 9.0 - 10.5, extraordinarily preferably 9.5 - 10.0, in each case measured at 20 °C.

[0172] Oxidation compositions (Ox) used particularly preferably according to the invention further contain at least one oil and / or at least one fat component having a melting point in the range of 23 - 110 °C, preferably in a total amount of 0.1 - 60 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.5 - 40 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 2 - 24 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidation composition (Ox) used preferably according to the invention.

[0173] The oils suitable for the oxidation compositions (Ox) preferably used according to the invention are largely the same oils disclosed above as suitable dedusting agents for bleaching powders and as carrier oils for bleaching pastes.

[0174] Fat components having a melting point in the range of 23 - 110 °C which are preferably used in the oxidation compositions (Ox) according to the invention are selected from linear saturated 1-alkanols having 12 - 30 carbon atoms, preferably in a total amount of 0.1 - 8% by weight, particularly preferably 3.0 to 6.0% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the oxidation composition (Ox) used according to the invention.

[0175] Preferably, the at least one linear saturated 1-alkanol having 12-30 carbon atoms is selected from lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol as well as from mixtures of these 1-alkanols, particularly preferably from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol / stearyl alcohol mixtures.

[0176] Oxidation compositions (Ox) preferably used according to the invention further contain, in each case based on their weight, at least one linear saturated 1-alkanol having 12-30 carbon atoms in a total amount of 0.1-8 wt.%, preferably in a total amount of 2-6 wt.%, wherein at least one 1-alkanol selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol / stearyl alcohol mixtures is present.

[0177] Further oxidation compositions (Ox) preferably used according to the invention contain at least one fatty component with a melting point in the range of 23 - 110 °C, which is selected from esters of a saturated, monohydric Cie-Ceo alkanol and a saturated C1-C6B monocarboxylic acid, in particular cetyl behenate, stearyl behenate and C2o-C4o alkyl stearate, glycerol triesters of saturated linear C12 - C50 carboxylic acids, which may be hydroxylated, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, beeswax, saturated linear C14 - C36 carboxylic acids and mixtures of the aforementioned substances.

[0178] Further oxidation compositions (Ox) preferably used according to the invention contain at least one surfactant or at least one emulsifier, preferably in a total amount of 0.5 - 10 wt.%, preferably 1 - 5 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidation composition (Ox) used according to the invention.

[0179] Surfactants and emulsifiers within the meaning of the present application are amphiphilic (bifunctional) compounds consisting of at least one hydrophobic and at least one hydrophilic moiety. The hydrophobic moiety is preferably a hydrocarbon chain with 8-28 carbon atoms, which can be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched. This C8-C28 alkyl chain is particularly preferably linear. Basic properties of surfactants and emulsifiers are oriented absorption at interfaces, aggregation into micelles, and the formation of lyotropic phases.

[0180] According to the invention, anionic, nonionic, and cationic surfactants are particularly suitable. However, zwitterionic and amphoteric surfactants are also very suitable.

[0181] Suitable anionic surfactants in the compositions according to the invention include all anionic surface-active substances suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing anionic group, such as a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate, or phosphate group, and a lipophilic alkyl group with 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, the molecule may contain glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether, and amide groups, as well as hydroxyl groups. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 C atoms (soaps), alkyl ether carboxylic acids, acyl sarcosides, acyl taurides, acyl isethionates, sulfosuccinic acid mono-, dialkyl esters and sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkyl polyoxyethyl esters, linear alkanesulfonates, linear alpha-olefinsulfonates, alkyl sulfates and alkyl ether sulfates as well as alkyl and / or alkenyl phosphates.Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, and alkyl ether carboxylic acids, each containing 10 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 14 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, and up to 12 glycol ether groups, preferably 2 to 6 glycol ether groups, in the molecule. Examples of such surfactants are the compounds with the INCI names Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Sodium Myreth Sulfate, or Sodium Laureth Carboxylate.

[0182] Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds that contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate, sulfonate, or sulfate group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are so-called betaines, such as N-alkyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example, cocoalkyl dimethylammonium glycinate; N-acyl-aminopropyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example, cocoacylaminopropyl dimethylammonium glycinate; and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazolines, each with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, as well as cocoacylaminoethyl hydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

[0183] Amphoteric surfactants are surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C5-C24 alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO5H group in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable amphoteric surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycine, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids, and alkylaminoacetic acids, each containing 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred amphoteric surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate, and C12-C18-acylsarcosine.

[0184] Non-ionic surfactants contain, for example, a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups as a hydrophilic group. Such compounds are, for example, addition products of 4 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide with linear and branched fatty alcohols, with fatty acids and with alkylphenols, each with 8 to 20 C atoms in the alkyl group, ethoxylated mono-, di- and triglycerides, such as, for example, glycerol monolaurate + 20 ethylene oxide, and glycerol monostearate + 20 ethylene oxide, sorbitan fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as, for example, the polysorbates (Tween 20, Tween 21, Tween 60, Tween 61, Tween 81), addition products of ethylene oxide with fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines, and alkyl polyglycosides.Particularly suitable non-ionic surfactants are C8-C22 alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues as well as ethylene oxide addition products with saturated or unsaturated linear fatty alcohols, each containing 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol.

[0185] Further oxidation compositions preferably used according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one anionic surfactant is selected from alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates and alkyl ether carboxylic acids each having 10 to 18 C atoms, preferably 12 to 14 C atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12, preferably 2 to 6 glycol ether groups, in the molecule.Further oxidation compositions preferably used according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from ethylene oxide addition products onto saturated or unsaturated linear fatty alcohols, each containing 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol, and at least one anionic surfactant selected from alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, and alkyl ether carboxylic acids, each containing 10 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 14 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12, preferably 2 to 6 glycol ether groups in the molecule, wherein the weight ratio of the total of all anionic surfactants to the total of all non-ionic surfactants is particularly preferably in the range of 5 - 50, preferably 10 - 30. Suitable cationic surfactants in oxidation compositions (Ox) preferably used according to the invention are, in principle, all cationic surface-active substances suitable for use on the human body.These are characterized by at least one water-solubilizing, cationic group, such as a quaternary ammonium group, or by at least one water-solubilizing, cationizable group, such as an amine group, and furthermore at least one (lipophilic) alkyl group having 6 to 30 carbon atoms or at least one (lipophilic) imidazole group or at least one (lipophilic) imidazole alkyl group. Oxidation compositions (Ox) particularly preferably used according to the invention contain at least one cationic surfactant, which is preferably selected from quaternary ammonium compounds having at least one C8-C24 alkyl radical, esterquats, and amidoamines each having at least one C8-C24 acyl radical, as well as mixtures thereof.Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds with at least one C8-C24 alkyl radical are ammonium halides, especially chlorides, and ammonium alkyl sulfates, such as methosulfates or ethosulfates, such as C8-C24 alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, C8-C24 dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides, and C8-C24 trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, e.g., cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, as well as the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27, Quaternium-83, Quaternium-87, and Quaternium-91. The alkyl chains of the above-mentioned surfactants preferably have 8 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0186] Esterquats are cationic surfactants that contain at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element, as well as at least one C8-C24 alkyl radical or C8-C24 acyl radical. Preferred esterquats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines, and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines. N,N-bis(2-palmitoyloxyethyl)dimethylammonium chloride, distearoylethyl dimonium methosulfate, and distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate are preferred examples of such esterquats.

[0187] The alkylamidoamines are typically prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic C8-C24 fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with di-(C1-C3)alkylaminoamines. A particularly suitable compound from this group of substances according to the invention is stearamidopropyldimethylamine. Oxidation compositions (Ox) used with particular preference according to the invention contain at least one cationic surfactant in a total amount of 0.01-5 wt.%, preferably 0.1-3 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.3-2 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidation composition (Ox) used according to the invention.

[0188] A further subject matter of the present invention is a multi-component packaging unit (kit of parts) for lightening keratinic fibers, which contains at least two separately packaged components and which is characterized in that i) the first component (B) is an oxidative hair treatment agent according to the invention or an oxidative hair treatment agent preferred according to the invention, ii) the second component (Ox) is an oxidation composition which, in each case based on its weight, 50 - 96 wt.%, preferably 70 - 93 wt.%, particularly preferably 80 - 90 wt.%, water and 0.5 - 20 wt.-% hydrogen peroxide and furthermore at least one pH adjuster in an amount such that the oxidation composition has a pH in the range from 1.5 to 5.5, measured at 20°C, wherein the components (B) and (Ox) are preferably present in a weight-related ratio (B): (Ox) of 0.2 - 2, particularly preferably 0.3 - 1.5, further preferably 0.5 - 1, extraordinarily preferably 0.5 - 0.6, to one another.

[0189] The ready-to-use mixtures of an oxidative hair treatment agent according to the invention or preferred according to the invention with one of the aforementioned oxidation compositions (Ox) preferably have a viscosity in the range of 15,000 to 100,000 mPas, particularly preferably 20,000 to 85,000 mPas, each measured at 20°C using a Brookfield viscometer type DV-II+, spindle 5, at a speed of 4 revolutions per minute. A viscosity in this range allows the ready-to-use agent to be easily applied and, at the same time, to have such flow properties that it guarantees a sufficiently long contact time for the agent at the site of action on the keratin fibers.

[0190] A multi-component packaging unit comprises several individual components that are assembled separately from one another, as well as a common packaging for these components, for example, a folding box. Within this box, the components are each provided separately in different containers. For the purposes of the present invention, a container is understood to mean a packaging in the form of a possibly resealable bottle, a tube, a can, a pouch, a sachet, or a similar packaging. According to the invention, there are no limits to the packaging material. However, the packaging is preferably made of glass or plastic.

[0191] In addition, the packaging unit may include application aids such as combs, brushes or paintbrushes, personal protective clothing, in particular disposable gloves, and instructions for use.

[0192] The exposure time is preferably 5 to 60 minutes, in particular 5 to 50 minutes, and particularly preferably 10 to 45 minutes. During the exposure time of the agents on the fiber, it may be advantageous to support the lightening process by applying heat. A exposure phase at room temperature is also in accordance with the invention. In particular, the temperature during the exposure time is between 20°C and 40°C, in particular between 25°C and 38°C. The agents produce good treatment results even at physiologically acceptable temperatures below 45°C.

[0193] After the bleaching process is complete, all components present on the keratin fibers are rinsed from the hair with water or a detergent containing surfactants. Commercial shampoo can be used as a detergent, although the detergent can be omitted and the rinse can be performed with tap water, especially if the bleaching agent has a higher surfactant content.

[0194] What has been said about the oxidative hair treatment agents according to the invention and preferred according to the invention also applies mutatis mutandis to the multi-component packaging units (kits of parts) according to the invention and preferred according to the invention.

[0195] What has been said about the oxidative hair treatment agents according to the invention and preferred according to the invention also applies mutatis mutandis to the methods according to the invention and preferred according to the invention for lightening the keratin fibers.

[0196] What has been said about the oxidation compositions used according to the invention and preferred according to the invention also applies mutatis mutandis to the multi-component packaging units (kits of parts) according to the invention and preferred according to the invention.

[0197] What has been said about the oxidation compositions used according to the invention and preferred according to the invention also applies mutatis mutandis to the methods according to the invention and preferred according to the invention for lightening the keratin fibers.

[0198] What has been said about the oxidative hair treatment agents according to the invention and those preferred according to the invention also applies mutatis mutandis to the use according to the invention.

[0199] What has been said regarding the oxidation compositions used in accordance with the invention and those preferably used in accordance with the invention also applies mutatis mutandis to the use according to the invention.

[0200] In summary, the objects of the invention are described by the following points:

[0201] 1. An oxidative hair treatment agent for lightening or for lightening the hair, comprising a) at least one oxidizing agent selected from the inorganic salts of a peroxosulfuric acid, and mixtures of these salts, b) furthermore at least one complexing agent selected from b) i) complexing agents of the general formula (I), where

[0202] R1 represents a hydrogen atom, a Ci-Ce-alkyl group, a hydroxy-C2-C6-alkyl group, a carboxy-Ci-Ce-alkyl group or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof,

[0203] R2, R3 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a Ci-Ce-alkyl group, a hydroxy-C2-C6-alkyl group, a carboxy-Ci-Ce-alkyl group or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof, where R2 and R3 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom and not simultaneously represent a carboxy-Ci-Ce-alkyl group, M1, M2 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom or an alkali metal ion, preferably sodium, potassium, or an ammonium ion (NH4 + ) and b) ii) complexing agents of the general formula (II) where

[0204] R4, R5 independently of one another represent a carboxy-Ci-Ce-alkyl group or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof, a hydrogen atom, a Ci-Ce-alkyl group or a hydroxy-O2-Ce-alkyl group, and m represents an integer from 0 to 6, and n represents an integer from 0 to 6, and

[0205] M1 , M2 independently represent a hydrogen atom or an alkali metal ion, preferably sodium, potassium, or an ammonium ion (NH4 +), b) iii) ethylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid or at least one alkali metal salt or ammonium salt of this acid, c) furthermore at least one amino acid selected from alpha-amino acids, beta-amino acids and the salts of an alpha-amino acid or beta-amino acid, and mixtures of these substances, d) furthermore polyquaternium-4 and e) and 0 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably 0.5 to 5% by weight of water, in each case based on the weight of the oxidative hair treatment agent, wherein no polymer is present which comprises acrylic acid, acrylic acid amides, acrylic acid esters, methacrylic acid, methacrylic acid amides and / or methacrylic acid esters as monomer. Oxidative hair treatment agent according to point 1, characterized in that the at least one oxidizing agent a) is present in a total amount of 5 - 85 wt.%, preferably 10 - 70 wt.%, particularly preferably 17 - 55 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 22 - 45 wt.- %, each based on the weight of the oxidative hair treatment agent. Oxidative hair treatment agent according to point 1 or 2, characterized in that the at least one oxidizing agent a) is selected from sodium peroxodisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate, ammonium peroxodisulfate, sodium peroxomonosulfate, potassium peroxomonosulfate, ammonium peroxomonosulfate and mixtures of these compounds, preferably potassium peroxodisulfate-ammonium peroxodisulfate mixtures, potassium peroxodisulfate-ammonium peroxodisulfate-sodium peroxodisulfate mixtures and potassium peroxodisulfate-sodium peroxodisulfate mixtures, particularly preferably from potassium peroxodisulfate-ammonium peroxodisulfate mixtures, extraordinarily preferably from potassium peroxodisulfate-ammonium peroxodisulfate mixtures with an excess of potassium peroxodisulfate, which are free of sodium peroxodisulfate.Oxidative hair treatment agent according to any one of points 1-3, characterized in that the at least one complexing agent b) i) of the general formula (I) is selected from methylglycinediacetic acid, the sodium salts, potassium salts, and ammonium salts of methylglycinediacetic acid, and mixtures of the aforementioned substances, with the disodium salt and the trisodium salt of methylglycinediacetic acid being preferred and the trisodium salt of methylglycinediacetic acid being particularly preferred. Oxidative hair treatment agent according to any one of points 1-4, characterized in that the trisodium salt of methylglycinediacetic acid is present in an amount of 0.1 to 5.0 wt.%, preferably 0.5 to 3.0 wt.%, particularly preferably 1.0 to 2.0 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 1.4 to 1.6 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidative hair treatment agent.Oxidative hair treatment agent according to one of points 1 - 5, characterized in that the at least one complexing agent b) ii) of the general formula (II) is selected from glutamic acid-ZV, ZV-diacetic acid, the sodium salts, potassium salts and ammonium salts of glutamic acid-ZV, ZV-diacetic acid and mixtures of the aforementioned substances, wherein the disodium salt and the trisodium salt of glutamic acid-ZV, ZV-diacetic acid are preferred and the trisodium salt of glutamic acid-ZV, ZV-diacetic acid is particularly preferred. Oxidative hair treatment agent according to one of points 1 - 6, characterized in that the tetrasodium salt of glutamic acid ZV, A / diacetic acid is present as complexing agent b) ii) in an amount of 0.1 to 5.0 wt.%, preferably 0.5 to 3.0 wt.%, particularly preferably 1.0 to 2.0 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 1.4 - 1.6 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidative hair treatment agent.Oxidative hair treatment agent according to one of points 1 - 7, characterized in that the at least one salt of ethylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid is selected from the sodium salts, potassium salts and ammonium salts and mixtures of these salts, preferably selected from the monosodium salt, the disodium salt, the trisodium salt and the tetrasodium salt of ethylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid and mixtures thereof, wherein the trisodium salt and the tetrasodium salt of ethylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid are particularly preferred and the trisodium salt of ethylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid is extremely preferred. Oxidative hair treatment agent according to one of points 1 - 8, characterized in that the complexing agent b) iii) is the trisodium salt of ethylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid in an amount of 0.1 to 5.0 wt.%, preferably 0.5 to 3.0 wt.%, particularly preferably 1.0 to 2.0 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 1.4 - 1.6 wt.-%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidative hair treatment agent. Oxidative hair treatment agent according to one of points 1-9, characterized in that the at least one complexing agent b) is contained in a total amount of 0.1 to 5.0 wt.%, preferably 0.5 to 3.0 wt.%, particularly preferably 1.0 to 2.0 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 1.4 to 1.6 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidative hair treatment agent. Oxidative hair treatment agent according to one of points 1 - 10, characterized in that the at least one alpha-amino acid or beta-amino acid c) and / or its salt is contained in a total amount, converted to the mass of free amino acid, of 0.1 to 3.0 wt.%, preferably 0.2 to 1.5 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.3 to 0.6 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 0.4 - 0.5 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidative hair treatment agent.Oxidative hair treatment agent according to one of points 1-11, characterized in that the at least one alpha-amino acid c) is selected from serine, arginine, the salts of these amino acids and mixtures of the aforementioned substances, with mixtures of serine and arginine being particularly preferred. Oxidative hair treatment agent according to one of points 1-12, characterized in that at least one alpha-amino acid c) selected from L-arginine, L-serine or at least one salt of these amino acids is present in a total amount, converted to the mass of free amino acid, of 0.1 to 3.0 wt.%, preferably 0.2 to 1.5 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.3 to 0.6 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 0.4-0.5 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidative hair treatment agent. Oxidative hair treatment agent according to one of points 1 - 13, characterized in that polyquaternium-4 is present in a total amount of 0.01 to 3.0 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 1.0 wt.-%, particularly preferably 0.1 to 0.7 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 0.3 - 0.5 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidative hair treatment agent. Oxidative hair treatment agent according to one of points 1 - 14, characterized in that at least one alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salt of a C12-C24 monocarboxylic acid, which may be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, is contained, wherein the C12-C24 monocarboxylic acid is preferably selected from lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid, erucic acid and brassidic acid and mixtures thereof, wherein stearic acid and palmitic acid and mixtures thereof are particularly preferred and wherein the potassium, magnesium and calcium salts of the C12-C24 monocarboxylic acid are extremely preferred.The oxidative hair treatment agent according to any one of items 1-15, characterized in that, based on its weight in each case, at least one alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salt of a C12-C24 monocarboxylic acid, which may be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, is present in a total amount of 0.05-1 wt.%, preferably 0.2-0.6 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.3-0.5 wt.%. The oxidative hair treatment agent according to any one of items 1-16, characterized in that, based on its weight in each case, potassium stearate is present in a total amount of 0.05-1 wt.%, preferably 0.2-0.6 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.3-0.5 wt.%. Oxidative hair treatment agent according to one of points 1 - 17, characterized in that 0.05 - 0.5 wt.%, preferably 0.2 - 0.4 wt.% of sodium hexametaphosphate is contained, in each case based on the weight of the oxidative hair treatment agent.Oxidative hair treatment agent according to one of points 1 - 18, characterized in that it further contains at least one dicarboxylic acid having 2 to 10 carbon atoms, selected from succinic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, malic acid, D-tartaric acid, L-tartaric acid, meso-tartaric acid, grape acid, alpha-ketoglutaric acid, beta-ketoglutaric acid, oxaloacetic acid, maleic acid and fumaric acid, the salts of the aforementioned acids and mixtures of the aforementioned substances, wherein preferably the at least one dicarboxylic acid having 2 to 10 carbon atoms and / or its salt(s) is contained in a total amount of 0.2 to 4.0 wt.%, preferably 0.33 to 3.0 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.5 to 2.0 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 0.7 - 1.0 wt.%, in each case converted to the undissociated acid and based on the weight of the oxidative hair treatment agent.The oxidative hair treatment agent according to any one of points 1-19, characterized in that it contains at least one inorganic alkalizing agent that is solid at 20°C and 1013 mbar in a total amount of 0.1 to 50 wt.%, preferably 5 to 40 wt.%, based in each case on the weight of the oxidative hair treatment agent. The oxidative hair treatment agent according to any one of points 1-20, characterized in that it contains, based in each case on its weight, 0.05-5 wt.%, preferably 0.5-4 wt.%, particularly preferably 1-2 wt.%, of kaolin. Oxidative hair treatment agent according to one of points 1 - 21, characterized in that, based on its weight, at least one oil selected from mineral oils, branched fatty alcohols with 8 - 24 carbon atoms, dialkyl ethers with 6 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl groups, and mixtures of the aforementioned substances, in a total amount of 0.2 - 80 wt.%, preferably 1 - 70 wt.%, particularly preferably 4 - 60 wt.-%, extremely preferably 5 - 20 wt.%. Oxidative hair treatment agent according to one of points 1 - 22, characterized in that, based on its weight, at least one oil selected from mineral oils and 2-octyl-1-dodecanol and mixtures of the aforementioned substances is contained in a total amount of 0.2 - 10 wt.%, preferably 1 - 7 wt.%, particularly preferably 4 - 6 wt.%, extremely preferably 5 - 5.5 wt.%. Oxidative hair treatment agent according to one of points 1 - 22, characterized in that, based on its weight, at least one oil selected from mineral oils and di-n-octyl ether and mixtures of the aforementioned substances is contained in a total amount of 0.2 - 10 wt.%, preferably 1 - 7 wt.%, particularly preferably 4 - 6 wt.%, extremely preferably 5 - 5.5 wt.%.A process for lightening or lightening coloring keratin fibers, in particular human hair, characterized in that an oxidative hair treatment agent (B) according to one of points 1 - 24 is mixed with an oxidation composition (Ox) which, in each case based on its weight, 50 - 96 wt.%, preferably 70 - 93 wt.%, particularly preferably 80 - 90 wt.%, water and 0.5 - 20 wt.-% hydrogen peroxide and furthermore at least one pH adjuster in an amount such that the oxidation composition has a pH in the range from 1.5 to 5.5, measured at 20°C, immediately thereafter applied to the keratin-containing fibers, left on the fibers for 5 to 60 minutes and then the fibers are rinsed with water and optionally washed out with a surfactant-containing cleaning agent, wherein the oxidative hair treatment agent (B) and the oxidation composition (Ox) are preferably mixed with one another in a weight-related ratio (B): (Ox) of 0.2 - 2, particularly preferably 0.3 - 1.5, further preferably 0.5 - 1.

[0206] 26. A method for lightening or lightening coloring of keratinic fibers according to claim 25, characterized in that the mixture of the oxidative hair treatment agent (B) according to any one of points 1 - 24 and the oxidation composition (Ox), optionally after addition of a third alkalizing component, has a pH of 8.0 to 11.5, preferably in the range of 8.5 to 11.0, particularly preferably 9.0 - 10.5, extraordinarily preferably 9.5 - 10.3, in each case measured at 20°C.

[0207] 27. Multi-component packaging unit (kit of parts) for lightening keratin fibers, which contains at least two separately packaged components and which is characterized in that i) the first component (B) is an oxidative hair treatment agent according to any one of points 1 - 24, ii) the second component (Ox) is an oxidation composition which, in each case based on its weight, contains 50 - 96 wt.%, preferably 70 - 93 wt.%, particularly preferably 80 - 90 wt.%, water and 0.5 - 20 wt.% hydrogen peroxide and further contains at least one pH adjuster in an amount such that the oxidation composition has a pH in the range of 1.5 to 5.5, measured at 20°C, wherein the components (B) and (Ox) are preferably present in a weight-related ratio (B):(Ox) of 0.2 - 2, particularly preferably 0.3 - 1 ,5, more preferably 0.5 - 1, most preferably 0.5 - 0.6, to each other.

[0208] The following examples illustrate the subject matter of the invention without limiting it thereto. Experimental Part

[0209] 1 . Investigations into heat development

[0210] Table 1 : Bleaching powder

[0211] Table 2: Developer containing oxidizing agent Each of the bleaching powders from Table 1 was mixed with the hydrogen peroxide-containing oil-in-water emulsion from Table 2 in a 1:1 weight ratio and applied to copper salt-doped hair strands, which were then wrapped in aluminum foil. The temperature gradient in the bleaching agent mixture was measured at regular intervals. The results are shown in Table 3.

[0212] Table 3: Temperature curve [temperature in °C]

[0213] Ready-to-use bleaching agent mixtures containing tetrasodium iminodisuccinate (IDS) or sodium gluconate as complexing agents heated up to almost 100°C within the first three minutes. This is unsuitable for use on a human scalp.

[0214] The complexing agents MGDS and GLDA used according to the invention, however, heated up to a maximum of 51 °C, which makes them suitable substitutes for the complexing agent EDTA.

[0215] The complexing agent EDDS used in the invention showed the lowest temperature rise, reaching a maximum of 42°C, making it an excellent replacement for the complexing agent EDTA. Table 4: Bleaching powder

[0216] Each of the bleaching powders from Table 4 was mixed with the hydrogen peroxide-containing oil-in-water emulsion from Table 2 in a mixing bowl at a weight ratio of 1:1. The temperature gradient of the bleaching agent mixture in the mixing bowl was measured at regular intervals. The results are shown in Table 5.

[0217] Table 5: Temperature curve [Temperature in °C] 2. Investigations into swelling behavior

[0218] In order to optimize the bleaching powders according to the invention also with regard to the swelling behavior when mixed with a hydrogen peroxide-containing emulsion (developer), the bleaching powders shown in Table 6 were produced and the respective influence of certain ingredients on the foam volume of the ready-to-use bleaching agent was investigated.

[0219] Table 6: Bleaching powder

[0220] Each of the bleaching powders from Table 6 was mixed with the hydrogen peroxide-containing oil-in-water emulsion according to Table 2 in a weight ratio of 1:1 and poured into a measuring cylinder. The volume of the bleaching agent mixture was measured at regular intervals. The pore size of the foam was assessed visually with the naked eye by trained personnel. The results are shown in Table 7:

[0221] Table 7: Time course of the volume of the bleaching agent mixture [ml]

[0222] % swelling

[0223] In the series of tests presented above, polyquaternium-4, sodium hexametaphosphate, potassium stearate, and kaolin were identified as particularly suitable for controlling the swelling volume. Liquid paraffin, di-n-octyl ether, and 2-octyl-1-dodecanol also reduce the swelling volume. A fine-pored foam is achieved with 2-octyl-1-dodecanol, sodium hexametaphosphate, and kaolin. Based on the series of tests presented in Tables 6 and 7, the bleaching powders according to Table 4 were prepared. Each bleaching powder from Table 4 was mixed with the hydrogen peroxide-containing oil-in-water emulsion according to Table 2 in a weight ratio of 1:1 and poured into a measuring cylinder. The volume of the bleaching agent mixture was measured at regular intervals. The pore size of the foam was visually assessed with the naked eye by trained personnel. The results are shown in Table 8:

[0224] Table 8: Time course of the volume of the bleaching agent mixture [ml]

[0225] A lower degree of swelling also means better adhesion of the mixture to a film. Large bubbles or coarse-pored foam reduce adhesion.

[0226] The partial replacement of the paraffin oil with the oil 2-octyl-1-dodecanol led to a refinement of the foam pores, which leads to improved adhesion of the bleaching agent, especially in the foil application used in the bleaching of highlights.

[0227] Bleaching powder formulations 0003\51 and 0003\52 demonstrated acceptable heat development and swelling behavior. 3. Investigations on bleaching performance and lightening power

[0228] Table 9: Bleaching powder

[0229] Table 10: Oxidizing agent-containing developer for bleaching powder

[0230] Each of the bleaching powders from Table 9 was mixed with the hydrogen peroxide-containing oil-in-water emulsion from Table 10 in a weight ratio of 1:2 to form a ready-to-use bleaching agent. The bleaching agent was applied to dry hair strands of shade 6-0 (light brown, Fischbach & Miller) (liquor ratio of 4 grams of ready-to-use bleaching agent per gram of hair). The bleaching agents were left on for 45 minutes and rinsed out. The ready-to-use bleaching agents each had a pH of 10.3, measured at 20°C.

[0231] After washing and drying, the bleached strands were colorimetrically measured using the L ab system. The colorimetric values ​​are summarized in Table 11.

[0232] Table 11 : colorimetric values

[0233] The bleaching powders according to the invention achieved the same degree of lightening as the EDTA-containing bleaching powder from the prior art.

Claims

Patent claims 1. Oxidative hair treatment preparation for lightening or lightening hair, containing a) at least one oxidizing agent selected from the inorganic salts of peroxosulfuric acid, and mixtures of these salts, b) furthermore at least one complexing agent selected from b) i) complexing agents of general formula (I), where R1 represents a hydrogen atom, a Ci-Ce alkyl group, a hydroxy-C2-Ce alkyl group, a carboxy-Ci-Ce alkyl group, or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof. R2, R3 independently represent a hydrogen atom, a Ci-Ce alkyl group, a hydroxy-C2-Ce alkyl group, a carboxy-Ci-Ce alkyl group or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof, wherein R2 and R3 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom and not simultaneously represent a carboxy-Ci-Ce alkyl group. M1, M2 independently of each other for a hydrogen atom or an alkali metal ion, preferably for sodium, potassium, or for an ammonium ion (NH4) + ) stand, and b) ii) complexing agents of the general formula (II) where R4, R5 independently represent a carboxy-Ci-Ce-alkyl group or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof, a hydrogen atom, a Ci-Ce-alkyl group or a hydroxy-C2-Ce-alkyl group, and m represents an integer from 0 to 6, and n represents an integer from 0 to 6, and M1, M2 independently of each other for a hydrogen atom or an alkali metal ion, preferably for sodium, potassium, or for an ammonium ion (NH4) + ) stand, b) iii) Ethylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid or at least one alkali metal salt or ammonium salt of this acid, c) furthermore at least one amino acid selected from alpha-amino acids, beta-amino acids and the salts of an alpha-amino acid or beta-amino acid, as well as mixtures of these substances, d) furthermore polyquaternium-4 and e) and 0 to 10 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 8 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.5 to 5 wt.% water, in each case based on the weight of the oxidative hair treatment agent, wherein no polymer is included which comprises as a monomer acrylic acid, acrylamides, acrylic esters, methacrylic acid, methacrylamides and / or methacryl esters. Oxidative hair treatment agent according to claim 1, characterized in that the at least one oxidizing agent a) is present in a total amount of 5 - 85 wt.%, preferably 10 - 70 wt.%, particularly preferably 17 - 55 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 22 - 45 wt.%.-%, each based on the weight of the oxidative hair treatment agent. Oxidative hair treatment agent according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the at least one oxidizing agent a) is selected from sodium peroxodisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate, ammonium peroxodisulfate, sodium peroxomonosulfate, potassium peroxomonosulfate, ammonium peroxomonosulfate, and mixtures of these compounds, preferably potassium peroxodisulfate-ammonium peroxodisulfate mixtures, potassium peroxodisulfate-ammonium peroxodisulfate-sodium peroxodisulfate mixtures, and potassium peroxodisulfate-sodium peroxodisulfate mixtures, particularly preferably potassium peroxodisulfate-ammonium peroxodisulfate mixtures, and extraordinarily preferably potassium peroxodisulfate-ammonium peroxodisulfate mixtures with an excess of potassium peroxodisulfate, which are free of sodium peroxodisulfate.Oxidative hair treatment composition according to any one of claims 1-3, characterized in that the at least one complexing agent b) i) of general formula (I) is selected from methylglycine diacetic acid, the sodium salts, potassium salts and ammonium salts of methylglycine diacetic acid, and mixtures of the aforementioned substances, wherein the disodium salt and the trisodium salt of methylglycine diacetic acid are preferred and the trisodium salt of methylglycine diacetic acid is particularly preferred. Oxidative hair treatment composition according to any one of claims 1-4, characterized in that the at least one complexing agent b) ii) of general formula (II) is selected from glutamic acid central amino acids, central amino acid diacetic acid, the sodium salts, potassium salts and ammonium salts of glutamic acid central amino acids, central amino acid diacetic acid, and mixtures of the aforementioned substances, wherein the disodium salt and the trisodium salt of glutamic acid central amino acids, central amino acid diacetic acid. Oxidative hair treatment composition according to any one of claims 1-5, characterized in that the at least one salt of ethylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid is selected from the sodium salts, potassium salts, and ammonium salts, as well as mixtures of these salts, preferably selected from the monosodium salt, the disodium salt, the trisodium salt, and the tetrasodium salt of ethylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid, as well as from mixtures thereof, wherein the trisodium salt and the tetrasodium salt of ethylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid are particularly preferred, and the trisodium salt of ethylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid is exceptionally preferred. Oxidative hair treatment agent according to one of claims 1-6, characterized in that the at least one complexing agent b) is present in a total amount of 0.1 to 5.0 wt. %, preferably 0.5 to 3.0 wt. %, particularly preferably 1.0 to 2.0 wt.-%, most preferably 1.4 to 1.6 wt%, based on the weight of the oxidative hair treatment agent. Oxidative hair treatment agent according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the at least one alpha-amino acid or beta-amino acid c) and / or its salt is contained in a total amount, converted to the mass of free amino acid, of 0.1 to 3.0 wt%, preferably 0.2 to 1.5 wt%, particularly preferably 0.3 to 0.6 wt%, and most preferably 0.4 to 0.5 wt%, based on the weight of the oxidative hair treatment agent. Oxidative hair treatment agent according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the at least one alpha-amino acid c) is selected from serine, arginine, the salts of these amino acids, and mixtures of the aforementioned substances, with mixtures of serine and arginine being particularly preferred.An oxidative hair treatment composition according to any one of claims 1-9, characterized in that polyquaternium-4 is contained in a total amount of 0.01 to 3.0 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 1.0 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.1 to 0.7 wt.%, and most preferably 0.3 to 0.5 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidative hair treatment composition. An oxidative hair treatment composition according to any one of claims 1-10, characterized in that it contains at least one alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salt of a C12-C24 monocarboxylic acid, which may be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched. wherein the C12-C24 monocarboxylic acid is preferably selected from lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid, erucic acid, and brassidic acid, as well as mixtures thereof, wherein stearic acid and palmitic acid, as well as mixtures thereof, are particularly preferred, and wherein the potassium, magnesium, and calcium salts of the C12-C24 monocarboxylic acid are exceptionally preferred. Oxidative hair treatment composition according to any one of claims 1-11, characterized in that it contains 0.05-0.5 wt.%, preferably 0.2-0.4 wt.%, sodium hexametaphosphate, in each case based on the weight of the oxidative hair treatment composition.An oxidative hair treatment composition according to any one of claims 1-12, characterized in that it further comprises at least one dicarboxylic acid with 2 to 10 carbon atoms, selected from succinic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, corticic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, malic acid, D-tartaric acid, L-tartaric acid, meso-tartaric acid, racemic acid, alpha-ketoglutaric acid, beta-ketoglutaric acid, oxaloacetic acid, maleic acid and fumaric acid, the salts of the aforementioned acids and mixtures of the aforementioned substances, wherein the at least one dicarboxylic acid with 2 to 10 carbon atoms and / or its salt(s) is preferably contained in a total amount of 0.2 to 4.0 wt.%, preferably 0.33 to 3.0 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.5 to 2.0 wt.%, and most preferably 0.7 to 1.0 wt.%, in each case converted on the undissociated acid and based on the weight of the oxidative hair treatment product.An oxidative hair treatment agent according to any one of claims 1-13, characterized in that it contains at least one inorganic alkalizing agent, solid at 20 °C and 1013 mbar, in a total amount of 0.1 to 50 wt.%, preferably 5 to 40 wt.%, based on the weight of the oxidative hair treatment agent. A method for lightening or lightening keratinous fibers, in particular human hair, characterized in that an oxidative hair treatment agent (B) according to any one of claims 1-14 is mixed with an oxidation composition (Ox) which, based on its weight, contains 50 to 96 wt.%, preferably 70 to 93 wt.%, particularly preferably 80 to 90 wt.%, water and 0.5 to 20 wt.%.-% hydrogen peroxide and furthermore contains at least one pH adjuster in such a quantity that the oxidation composition has a pH value in the range of 1.5 to 5.5, measured at 20°C, is applied immediately afterwards to the keratin-containing fibers, left on the fibers for 5 to 60 minutes and then the fibers are rinsed with water and optionally washed with a surfactant-containing detergent. wherein the oxidative hair treatment agent (B) and the oxidation composition (Ox) are preferably mixed together in a weight-related ratio (B) : (Ox) of 0.2 - 2, particularly preferably 0.3 - 1.5, further preferably 0.5 - 1.

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