COSMETIC APPLICATOR

The applicator addresses the challenges of load capacity and separation efficiency by incorporating elements with composition accumulation surfaces, enabling effective retention and easy access for eyelashes, particularly with thick mascara compositions.

FR3070839B1Inactive Publication Date: 2025-04-11LOREAL SA
View PDF 0 Cites 0 Cited by

Patent Information

Application Number
FR2017058404
Authority / Receiving Office
FR · FR
Patent Type
Patents
Current Assignee / Owner
Filing Date
2017-09-12
Publication Date
2025-04-11
Estimated Expiration
Not applicable · inactive patent

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing applicators for cosmetic compositions on eyelashes or eyebrows lack sufficient load capacity, combing properties, and separation efficiency, especially when dealing with thick or viscous mascara.

Method used

The development of an applicator with a soul and multiple elements, each comprising a nucleus and application organs with a composition accumulation surface, such as an open radial throat or a distal arc, allowing for efficient composition retention and easy access for eyelashes.

Benefits of technology

The applicator effectively retains thick mascara compositions on its accumulation surfaces and allows for easy loading and separation of eyelashes without deep engagement, enhancing the makeup process.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.

Smart Images

  • Figure 00000029_0000
    Figure 00000029_0000
  • Figure 00000029_0001
    Figure 00000029_0001
  • Figure 00000029_0002
    Figure 00000029_0002
Patent Text Reader

Abstract

Applicator for applying a cosmetic composition to eyelashes or eyebrows, comprising: - a core, - at least one element (10) attached to the core, each element comprising a nucleus (12) engaged on the core and at least one application member carried by the nucleus, this application member comprising a strand of material having at least one bend defining a composition accumulation surface.
Need to check novelty before this filing date? Find Prior Art

Description

The present invention relates to applicators for applying a cosmetic composition to the eyelashes or eyebrows, comprising an applicator part composed of a core and a plurality of elements attached to the core, each element comprising a core engaged on the core and at least one application member carried by the core. US Patent 8,899,241 B2 discloses a first applicator of this type. The core is, for example, made up of a metal pin folded back on itself and twisted or by an axis of non-circular section, the core being crossed by one or more openings of corresponding shapes. US Patent 9,591,916 B2 discloses other examples of applicators of this type, the cores being in the form of discs which can be made with complementary reliefs which allow them to be positioned with a predefined angular orientation between them. The application members consist of simple spikes or, alternatively, spikes having short branches for substantially a third of their length. In other variants, the application members are in the form of lamellae whose thickness decreases towards the radially outer edge of the element, these lamellae being flattened in the same plane as the core. The lamellae may be provided with concentric grooves around the axis of the core, of shallow depth, or with small bosses or recesses, forming a surface roughness. There is a need to further improve applicators of this type, in particular in order to have a good capacity for loading eyelashes or eyebrows in cosmetic composition, while having satisfactory combing and eyelash separation properties. The invention aims to meet this need and achieves this by means of an applicator for applying a cosmetic composition to the eyelashes or eyebrows, comprising: - a soul, - at least one element attached to the core, each element comprising a core engaged on the core and at least one application member carried by the core, this application member comprising a strand of material having at least one bend defining a composition accumulation surface. This composition accumulation surface may be a groove open radially outwardly of the element or in a circumferential direction or otherwise oriented. The choice of the positioning of the groove can be made according to the ease of access sought for the eyelashes to the composition retained in this groove, as well as according to the degree of wringing sought. The accumulation surface may also be a surface present in the distal half of the application member, for example defined by an arc present at the distal end of the application member. This accumulation surface may be located set back, along the elongation axis, from the distal end of the application member, so as to retain product as it passes through the wiping member. Advantageously, the cosmetic composition intended to be applied to the eyelashes and / or eyebrows is a mascara composition. A mascara composition typically has a viscosity at 25°C greater than 5 Pa.s, in particular between 5 Pa.s and 50 Pa.s, in particular measured using a Rhéomat RM100® device. Such a mascara composition conventionally comprises a dry extract, generally in an amount greater than or equal to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, a pulverulent coloring matter, in particular one or more pigments, in particular one or more metal oxides, for example one or more iron oxides, and advantageously a film-forming polymer. A mascara composition may also conventionally comprise one or more waxes, in a total amount in particular of between 5 and 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In the context of the present invention, the applicator is particularly suitable for the application of a relatively thick or viscous mascara composition. Indeed, a mascara composition having a relatively high viscosity will be particularly well retained on the composition accumulation surface and will not flow or will flow little under its own weight out of this accumulation surface. The invention exploits the fact that said elements can be produced separately to form reliefs thereon which would be difficult, or even impossible, to produce on conventional injected brushes, where the application members are molded in a single piece of thermoplastic material with the core, due to the problems of demolding. The invention thus makes it possible to form the aforementioned elbow with various shapes which are difficult, if not impossible, to achieve on conventional injected brushes. In a particularly preferred embodiment, in accordance with the teaching of document US 8,899,241 B2 or its equivalent FR 2,900,319, the core has a longitudinal axis and each element is threaded onto the core along its longitudinal axis before twisting the core, the core and the element, in particular the core and the core of the element, being mechanically linked to substantially prevent the element from pivoting freely on the core. Such a mechanical connection without the possibility of relative rotation of the core and the element(s) threaded onto it before twisting can be obtained by means of a core, produced in the form of an elongated element made of plastically deformable material and having a non-circular cross-section (for example polygonal, such as square, rectangular, triangular, etc., oval, multi-lobed, etc.) in the untwisted state, threaded through an orifice of complementary cross-section provided in the core of each of the elements. Alternatively, the core comprises two wires made of plastically deformable material, for example two metal wires, possibly connected together at one of their ends by being made from a single wire folded into a hairpin, and the mechanical connection without the possibility of relative rotation of the core and the element(s) threaded onto it before twisting is obtained by threading the wires of the core in the untwisted state into two orifices, preferably of complementary shapes, provided in the core of each of the elements. The core carrying the element(s) is then twisted so as to obtain a helical proliferation of the application members along the longitudinal axis of the core. By "the core is twisted" is meant here that the core, carrying the element(s), is subjected to a twist, achieved for example by imparting to one of its parts a rotational movement around the longitudinal axis of the core (for example in a clockwise direction) while the other parts of the core remain fixed in rotation, or are even subjected to a movement in the opposite direction (for example in an anticlockwise direction). This torsional force is achieved so as to impart a plastic deformation to the core, so that the latter adopts its twisted shape in a stable and definitive manner once this torsional force ceases to be exerted on it. The present invention is not limited to the embodiments previously described for ensuring the mechanical connection without the possibility of relative rotation between the core and the element, in particular between the core and the core of the element, but extends to all technical equivalents known to those skilled in the art for achieving such a connection. The invention makes it possible to accumulate composition at a certain radial distance from the core, easily accessible for the eyelashes, and allowing them to be loaded with composition without having to engage them deeply within the applicator part. The invention makes it possible to "raise" the level of the composition on the applicator part, by providing surfaces adapted to its accumulation at a certain radial distance from the core. By "elbow" is meant a change in direction of a strand of material making up the application member, this strand being able to retain a cross-section which is substantially the same. The elbow is for example at a right angle or at an acute or obtuse angle. The strand of material can form a loop of closed contour, the application member then being hollow. The elbow can be formed at the junction of broken arcs, concave towards the outside or convex towards the outside. In the case of arcs convex towards the outside, a concavity defining a product accumulation surface can be formed at the elbow formed by the meeting of these arcs. In the case of concave arcs, the product accumulation surface can be formed by the concavity of the arcs. The cavity of the application member, when it is hollow, allows the product to accumulate by surface tension and thus to increase the autonomy of the applicator and / or to increase the load capacity of the applicator, without losing the capacity to separate and comb the eyelashes. This cavity preferably has a larger dimension of at least 0.2 mm, better still at least 0.5 mm. The application organs can be easily made with a shape suitable for separation and combing as well as in a sufficient number to obtain satisfactory makeup. The invention makes it possible, if desired, to produce wide and hollow application members, capable of being loaded with a relatively large quantity of composition, while retaining a certain flexibility, by producing them using a strand of material which surrounds the aforementioned cavity, this strand preferably being contained in a plane. The strand of material can be given any shape depending on the desired characteristics, and in particular a constant or non-constant cross-section around the perimeter of the cavity. The strand of material can be given a thinned shape in places, if necessary, to provide greater flexibility. The strand has a cross-section, for example, of between 0.04 and 1 mm2 over at least a quarter of the perimeter of the cavity that it delimits, better still at least half of this perimeter, or even three-quarters or all of it. The presence of the cavity gives the hollow application members greater flexibility to pass through the wiping member fitted to the container where the composition is taken. The cross-section of the strand of material can be polygonal or not, for example square, or circular. The greatest width of the application members, in particular hollow ones, measured perpendicular to their axis of elongation, is for example greater than or equal to 0.5 mm, preferably being between 0.5 and 5 mm, better still between 1 and 2 mm. Preferably, the core and the application members of an element are made in one piece by molding thermoplastic material, in particular in the same material. Each element which is mounted on the core can comprise between 4 and 24 application members. The element may comprise hollow application members whose cavity has a closed contour, which contributes to improving the mechanical strength of the application member, since it can then be produced without any loose strand of material. This allows us to obtain application devices which are both product-loading and have a good capacity to comb and separate the eyelashes due to their mechanical resistance. The fact of producing the applicator with separate elements makes it possible to easily give the cavity of the hollow application members various shapes, and / or to form between them quasi-closed cavities of various shapes, the element being for example demolded along the axis of the core, that is to say the general direction in which the core passes through the core, this axis being able to be parallel to the axis of the cavity, which is the direction in which the cavity passes through the application member. Where appropriate, in particular when the axis of the cavity is oriented perpendicular to a radius, demolding can be carried out with elastic deformation of the application member. The cavity formed by a hollow application member can still be quasi-closed, that is to say that the strand of material which defines the cavity is interrupted over a short distance instead of extending over a closed loop. This distance is less than or equal to 0.3 mm, better 0.2 mm, even better 0.1 mm.It is also possible, which can be combined with the presence of hollow application members, to produce quasi-closed cavities on the applicator part, where the composition can accumulate, by playing on the shape of the application members and their proximity. Here again, the invention exploits the fact that the presence of elements initially separate from the core makes it possible to produce them with shapes that would otherwise be difficult, or even impossible, to mold on a conventional injected brush. By quasi-closed cavities, it should be understood that the adjacent application members approach each other, at a non-zero radial distance from the core, by a distance less than or equal to 0.3 mm, better still 0.2 mm, even better still 0.1 mm. The gap is for example measured at least 0.5 mm from the core.For example, the adjacent application members have a succession of broken arcs which start from the core and define teeth, two of which are close enough for a quasi-closed cavity to be formed between the two application members by the portion of these which extends from the closest teeth to the core. In exemplary embodiments, the hollow application member comprises a strand of material extending in a complete loop. This strand of material is, for example, of substantially constant section over the majority of the perimeter of the loop, or even over the entire perimeter of the loop. This loop may extend entirely away from the core, which may have the advantage of forming a reserve of product at a location relatively far radially from the core, for example more than 3 mm from the surface of the core, which constitutes a significant difference compared to brushes produced by injection of plastic material with simple pins, the reserve of product then being formed in these known brushes at the base of the pins and not at a significant radial distance from the core. In exemplary embodiments, the loop forms a widened head for the application member and is connected by a foot, in particular less wide than it, to the core. This widened head can be given a harpoon shape for example, with the additional advantage of improving the grip of the eyelashes on the applicator and therefore the capacity for the applicator to take charge, in particular to curl them, of the eyelashes of the manner desired by the user. The foot may be single-strand or, alternatively, multi-strand. The height of the foot may be greater than that of the head, the height being measured along the axis of elongation of the application member, this axis preferably being radial. The presence of a single-strand foot may give more flexibility to the application member when this is desired. In alternative embodiments, the application member has a base and a head connected by a trunk that is narrower than the base and the head, the cavity preferably extending continuously from the base to the head. Such alternative embodiments make it possible to benefit from both a cavity capable of accumulating a relatively large quantity of composition and reliefs on the application member increasing the eyelash grip capacity and / or aimed at further increasing the composition load of the application member, at a predefined distance from the core. In alternative embodiments, the hollow application member comprises a strand of material extending in an incomplete loop, closed by the core. This can make it possible to give the application member a wider base, therefore more stability, and to extend the cavity to the core. When the cavity of the hollow application member extends over the majority of the radial dimension of the application member, in particular over substantially its entire height, to the thickness of the strand of material forming the loop, this tends to increase the quantity of product which is housed in the application member and makes it possible to benefit from a reserve of product over substantially the entire height of the application member. The width of the cavity, measured in the circumferential direction, i.e. perpendicular to a median radius, can be constant or variable. When it varies, its variation can be chosen so as to accumulate more or less product at the desired distance from the core, depending on the desired makeup. For example, the applicator member has a base and a head connected by a trunk that is narrower than the base and the head. This allows product to accumulate in the cavity within the base, trunk, and head, with less product accumulating at the trunk within the cavity. The head and the base may provide between them at least one groove open in the circumferential direction, which may on the one hand contribute to the attachment of the eyelashes, and on the other hand also allow the accumulation of product away from the core on the application member, outside the cavity. This groove may have a substantially flat bottom, in particular oriented substantially radially, and with facing edges converging towards the opening of the groove, which may improve the retention of the composition in the groove. In alternative embodiments, the hollow application member is serrated at its periphery. The teeth are, for example, formed by a succession of broken arcs, concave towards the outside. The application member is, for example, in the general shape of a holly leaf. The teeth present at the periphery of the application member can promote the attachment of the eyelashes and also form reliefs conducive to the accumulation of product at a radial distance from the core of the element. In alternative embodiments, the applicator member has two lateral arcs connected by a head arc, the lateral arcs and the head arc preferably forming teeth at their junction. These teeth can help to comb and separate the eyelashes. The head arc can be concave outwardly, in which case the concavity formed by the head arc allows product to accumulate at a radial distance from the core. The lateral arcs can be concave in the opposite direction to the cavity formed between them. The applicator member can have a shape that widens outwardly, away from the core. In alternative embodiments, the hollow application member is multi-lobed at its periphery, the lobes being for example formed by a succession of outwardly convex broken arcs. The application member may in particular in this case have a sagittal shape. An applicator according to the invention may thus have one or more of the following characteristics, considered in isolation or in combination: - the strand of material forms at least one concavity open towards the outside, in particular radially towards the outside or in a circumferential direction, and located at a non-zero radial distance from the core; the strand of material describes a first bend from the core to form a widened base, which extends into a portion defining a groove; - the throat is U-shaped; - said portion connects to an arc which forms the top of an enlarged head of the application member; - the application member comprises a strand of material which describes at least one groove, in particular comprises a foot which connects radially to the core, a first bend substantially at a right angle, a second bend substantially at a right angle towards the outside, a third bend substantially at a right angle towards the axis of elongation of the foot and a fourth bend substantially at a right angle towards the outside, a distal portion of the application member being straight and eccentric relative to the axis of elongation of the foot; - the application member comprises an enlarged head comprising two arcs forming elbows when joining, one of the arcs defining a composition accumulation surface; - the application member comprises a strand of material in a serrated shape, comprising a succession of broken arcs concave towards the outside; - the application member comprises two lateral branches joined together to form elbows by an arc at the end; - the application member has a sagittal shape, comprising a strand of material comprising a succession of outwardly convex broken arcs; - the application member has a general V shape with bends at the ends of the V, the element preferably comprising an alternation of a first application member having a general V shape with bends oriented substantially perpendicular to a median plane for the application member, and a second application member having bends oriented towards the core; - the application member comprises a strand of material bent in a V-shape forming two branches diverging radially outwards; - the application member comprises an X-shaped head connected to the core by a radial branch; - the axes of elongation of the application members of an element are coplanar; - at least one application member of an element is flattened according to a plane, in particular each application member of the same element being flattened according to a flattening plane common to all the application members of the element; - the application organs of an element have their flattening plane oriented in a plane containing the axis of the core. The invention also relates to a packaging and application device comprising: - a container containing the composition to be applied, - an applicator according to the invention. The invention also relates to a method for cosmetic treatment of eyelashes and / or eyebrows, in particular for making them up, comprising the step of applying a cosmetic composition to the eyelashes using an applicator according to the invention. The invention may be better understood by reading the detailed description which follows, non-limiting examples of its implementation, and by examining the attached drawing, in which: - Figure 1 schematically and partially represents an example of a packaging and application device according to the invention, - figure 2 represents in isolation the applicator part of an example of an applicator produced in accordance with the invention, - figure 3 represents in isolation an element used to produce the applicator part shown in figure 2, - figure 3A represents in isolation a variant of application member, - figure 4 represents an example of a core on which the elements can be mounted, the core being represented before mounting the elements and twisting, - figures 5, 7, 9, 11, 13, 15, 17, 19, 21, 23, 25 and 27 are views similar to figure 3, of alternative embodiments of the element, and - figures 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26 and 28 represent the applicator parts produced respectively with the elements of figures 5, 7, 9, 11, 13, 15, 17, 19, 21, 23, 25 and 27. The packaging and application device 1 shown schematically and partially in Figure 1 comprises a container 2 containing the composition to be applied, and an applicator 3 for applying this composition. The container 2 comprises a body which is for example provided, as illustrated, with a threaded neck 4 on which the applicator 3 can be fixed when the device 1 is not in use. A wiping member not visible in the figure is fixed in the neck of the container, in the usual way. It can be a flexible lip, conical, wavy or other shape. The applicator 3 comprises an applicator part 5 which is used for applying the composition, this applicator part 5 being mounted at one end of a rod 6, the other end of which is carried by a gripping member 7 also constituting in the example considered a closing member of the container 2, being arranged to be fixed on the neck 4. The composition that is applied may consist of any cosmetic product intended for makeup or care of eyelashes / and / or eyebrows. Preferably, it is mascara. The composition may in particular comprise pigments, such as iron oxides, dispersed in an aqueous or anhydrous medium. The capacity of the container is preferably between 5 and 30 mL. Figure 2 shows an example of an applicator part 5 made from individual elements 10, one of which has been shown in isolation in Figure 3. The applicator part 5 is preferably made in accordance with the teaching of US patent 8,899,241 B2. The elements 10 are thus mounted on a core 9 which keeps them stacked and fixed relative to each other. This core 9 is for example a twisted core, made from a metal wire folded into a pin, as illustrated in Figure 4. Alternatively, the core may be made up of two separate metal wires, positioned substantially parallel to the arms of the pin illustrated in Figure 4, onto which the elements 10 are threaded and which are then twisted. The elements 10 have holes 11 which are shown schematically in Figure 3, for the passage of the branches 9a and 9b of the core before twisting the latter. For the sake of clarity of the drawing, the core 9 has not been shown in Figure 2, and the holes 11 passing through the core 12 have only been shown in Figure 3. In the example considered, the elements 10 are identical but it does not go beyond the scope of the present invention to stack elements 10 of various shapes on the core 9 within the applicator part 5. Each element 10 comprises, as can be seen in Figure 3, hollow application members 20 which engage with the eyelashes or eyebrows when using the applicator 3. In the example considered, these hollow application members 20 alternate circumferentially with solid application members 30. In this example, the application elements 20 and 30 have the same external shape, but it does not go beyond the scope of the present invention if the external shapes are different. The core 12 is in the form of a flattened disc, the holes 11 for the passage of the branches 9a, 9b of the core 9 being arranged symmetrically relative to an axis X of the element 10, which may be an axis of symmetry for the core 12. In the illustrated example, the element 10 comprises three hollow application members 20 which alternate with three solid application members 30, the hollow application members 20 being arranged at 120 degrees from each other around the X axis of the element 10. The application members 20 or 30 have a widened head 40 connected to a base 41 by a trunk 42 less wide than the head and the base. The head 40 forms with the base 41, externally, a groove 45 on each side of the elongation axis Y of the application member 20. The head is wider than the base 4L This elongation axis Y is in the illustrated example an axis of symmetry for the application member, and coincides with a radius. The surface of the core 12 to which the application members are connected may be cylindrical in shape of revolution around the X axis, but other shapes are possible. In the example illustrated, the application members 20 and 30 are each flattened in shape in a plane which coincides with the flattening plane of the core 12, this plane being perpendicular to the axis X as well as to the longitudinal axis Z of the applicator part 5. The application members 20 and 30 are substantially joined at their base, where they connect to the core 12. The application members 20 are formed by a strand of material 44 which extends in a loop which is closed by the core 12. More particularly, this strand of material 44 is connected to the core 12 by forming a first bend 51 which forms one of the sides of the widened base 4L. The strand 44 extends beyond the bend 51 by a portion 52 in the shape of U which defines the groove 45 on one side of the application member 20 then extends in the form of an arc 53, convex towards the outside, which forms the top of the enlarged head 40 of the application member 20. The enlarged head 40 has, on the side opposite the arc 53, edges 54 which are oriented towards the Y axis and towards the arc 53. The groove 45 has edges which converge slightly towards the opening thereof, the bottom of the groove 45 being for example, as illustrated, substantially flat. The fact that the groove 45 is delimited by edges which converge away from the bottom of the groove further improves the retention of the composition within it by surface tension effect. Each application member 20 or 30 has a relatively squat shape, with a height h measured between the top of the application member and the core which is substantially of the same order of magnitude as the width l of the application member, measured perpendicular to the elongation axis Y. For example, we have 0.5 h < l < 2 h. For example, we have 1 mm < l < 6 mm and 2 mm < h < 8 mm. The cavity 14 defined inside the strand of material 44 makes it possible to accumulate the composition within the applicator part 5 despite the passage of the wiping member at the outlet of the container 2. Product can also accumulate in the grooves 45 formed between the head and the base of the application members 20 and 30, this accumulation of composition taking place at a non-zero radial distance from the core 12. Access to the composition by the eyelashes and eyebrows is thus facilitated since they do not have to engage as far as the core 12 to be loaded with composition. The protruding parts formed by the lateral ends of the enlarged heads are conducive to the attachment of the eyelashes, which can improve their handling by the applicator part, for example to curl them or smooth the composition on their surface. The relatively wide base of the application members 20 and 30 gives them good stability with respect to the forces which may be exerted during the use of the applicator part 5, in particular when passing the wiping member or for applying the composition to the eyelashes and eyebrows. The cavity 14 contributes to providing flexibility for the passage of the wiping member. To produce the applicator part 2, the elements 10 are threaded onto the core 9 and then the latter is twisted, in accordance with the teaching of US patent 8,899,241 B2. The number of elements 10 is for example between 2 and 100, better between 5 and 15 To manufacture the elements 10, they can be molded in a suitable mold so that demolding takes place along the X axis. In such a case, the presence of the cavity 14 within the hollow application elements 20 does not hinder demolding in any way. Any thermoplastic material can be used for molding the elements 10, generally speaking, regardless of the shape of the core 12 and the application members connected to it. In particular, a polyolefin or a thermoplastic elastomer, for example of the SEBS type, can be used. The element 10 can also be made from a non-thermoplastic material, for example metallic or ceramic. When twisting the core, the elements 10 can rotate relative to each other, such that a progressive angular offset between the elements is created, along the core, which may, if necessary, generate helical grooves on the applicator part 5. If necessary, the cores 12 can be made with complementary reliefs which cooperate in such a way as to facilitate the positioning of an element 10 in a predefined angular position around the longitudinal axis of the core relative to the adjacent elements 10. The depth p of the groove 45 is for example greater than or equal to 0.2 mm and the width w of the opening of the groove is for example between 0.2 and 3 mm. The strand of material 44 may have a section which is substantially constant over the entire contour of the application member 20, between its ends which connect to the core 12. The section of the strand 44 is for example of the order of 0.25 mm2. We will now describe with reference to figures 5 to 12 a first set of variant embodiments of application members and elements 10 comprising hollow application members 20. In the variant of figures 5 and 6, each element 10 comprises an alternation of hollow application members 20 and solid application members 30, the hollow application members 20 being in the example considered four in number, arranged at 90 degrees to each other. The cavity 14 of each hollow application member 20 is formed by a strand of material 63 which describes a closed curve constituting an enlarged head 60, this loop being connected to the core 12 by a foot 61. The enlarged head 60 has in the illustrated example a general harpoon shape with a head arc 65 which has a substantially parabolic shape convex towards the outside, and a foot arc 66 which is concave towards the core 12, of lesser curvature than the head arc 65. The foot arc 66 and the head arc 65 connect by forming elbows 67. Product can in particular accumulate on the external surface of the head arcs 65, in the hollow formed between two adjacent heads. Product can also accumulate in the cavity 14, in particular at the elbows where the proximity of the arcs 65 and 66 which promotes the retention of the product by surface tension. The cavity 14 has a radial dimension which is maximum on the elongation axis Y and which decreases as it approaches the junction between the arcs 65 and 66. The enlarged head 60 defines at this junction teeth which are oriented in a direction opposite to the Y axis and towards the core, this orientation contributing to further gripping the eyelashes which engage in the applicator part 5. In the example illustrated, the distance e which separates the widened heads 60 of two adjacent application members 20, 30 on the element 10 is relatively small and less than the distance which separates the feet 61 at their base. The widened heads 60 are thus relatively close together. This distance e can be between 0.1 and 0.3 mm, being sufficiently large to allow the passage of an eyelash in the space situated between two feet 61 under the widened heads 60. When the gap e is sufficiently small, that is to say less than or equal to 0.3 mm, better than 0.2 mm, even better than 0.1 mm, another, quasi-closed cavity 69 is formed between the application members 20 and 30, where the composition can also accumulate by surface tension. This quasi-closed cavity 69 extends in the example considered as far as the core 12. As for the example in Figure 3, we can have the height h and the width l of the application organ which verify the relationship 0.5 h < l < 2 h. In Figure 6, it can be seen that the elements 10 can be arranged by being stacked and forming helical grooves due to the twisting of the core. We will now describe with reference to figures 7 and 8 an alternative embodiment of the applicator part 5 and the elements 10 with which it is produced. In the example of Figure 7, the element 10 only comprises hollow application members 20, unlike the examples of Figures 3 and 5, where there is an alternation of application members of different natures in the circumferential direction. All the application members 20 are identical and each have a serrated shape, with numerous bends which define as many teeth on their outer side. The cavities 14 are delimited by a strand of material 80 which describes a succession of broken arcs, concave towards the outside, teeth being formed at the junction between two arcs. More particularly, in the example illustrated, the strand of material 80 describes, when starting from the core 12, a first broken arc 81, which connects to a second arc 82 by forming a first tooth 86, this second arc 82 itself connecting to a third arc 83 by forming a tooth 84. Each application member 20 has a symmetrical shape relative to its elongation axis Y. The two arcs 83 form at their junction a tooth 85 which defines the top of the hollow application member 20 and which is located on the elongation axis Y. Each application member 20 thus has a general holly leaf shape. The cavity 14 extends in this example over substantially the entire height of the application member 20, if the thickness occupied by the strand of material 80 is disregarded. The height m of the cavity, measured along the elongation axis Y, that is to say along a radius in the example considered, is thus greater than or equal to half the height h. For example, we have the following relationship between l and h 0.5 h < l < 2 h, where l denotes the largest transverse dimension of the application member, measured perpendicular to the elongation axis Y. It can be seen in Figure 7 that the interval e which exists between two adjacent application members, at the level of the teeth 86, is relatively small and for example less than or equal to 0.3 mm, and can in particular be between 0.1 and 0.3 mm. In the example illustrated, the application members 20 are substantially joined at their base, where the strands of material 80 connect to the core 12. The fact that the teeth 86 of the adjacent application members are relatively close makes it possible to constitute reserves of product between the first arcs 81 of two adjacent application members in a relatively confined space 90, and communicating with the outside only through a relatively narrow opening 91, of width e. The space 90 constitutes a quasi-closed cavity within the meaning of the invention, when the width e is less than or equal to 0.3 mm, better still 0.2 mm, even better still 0.1 mm The arcs 82 which extend on either side of this narrow opening 91 define a space 94 where the product can accumulate at a non-zero radial distance from the core 12. The user thus has a reserve of product in this space 94, where the eyelashes can engage, while benefiting from teeth formed at the junction of the different arcs to grip the eyelashes. All the concavities formed by the different arcs constitute as many recesses in which product can accumulate, which increases the load capacity of the applicator part 5. The end arcs 83 each define a cavity 89 open in a direction T which makes a relatively small angle y with the elongation axis Y, y being less than or equal to 30°, such that the cavity 89 is open substantially radially outwards. The direction T coincides in the example illustrated with a median axis for the cavity 89, which is also the axis of symmetry for this cavity. The orientation of the cavity 89 facilitates access of the eyelashes to the product which has accumulated inside. This access is all the easier since the cavity 89 is present at the periphery of the applicator part 5, such that the eyelashes do not have to penetrate deeply into the applicator part to be loaded with product. In Figure 8, it can be seen that the elements 10 can be angularly offset around the longitudinal axis of the applicator part due to the twisting of the core. We will now describe with reference to figures 9 and 10 an alternative embodiment of the applicator part 5. In this example, the element 10 only carries hollow application members 20 defining as many cavities 14. Each application member 20 is formed by two lateral arcs 100 joined at their distal end by a head arc 101, the lateral arcs 100 and the head arc 101 being concave towards the outside. The arcs 100 and 101 form at their junction elbows, the outside side of which defines teeth 102. The application member 20 is formed by a strand of material 105. The head arc 101 defines a cavity 109 open in a direction T which coincides with the elongation axis Y of the application member 20, which is also a median axis of symmetry for the application member 20. The product can accumulate in the concavity of the head arc 101, the bottom of which is set back from the top of the teeth 102 along the elongation axis Y. Product can also accumulate in the cavity 14 formed by the strand of material 105. The lateral arcs 100 facing two adjacent application members 20 define between them a space 111 in which product can also accumulate. This space communicates via a narrowed opening 112 with the outside, this opening 112 opening between the two teeth 102 of the two adjacent application members 20. The fact that the opening 112 is narrowed improves the retention of product between the hollow application members 20. The application members 20 of the example in Figure 9 thus allow an accumulation of product in the cavity 14, as well as in the hollow of the head arc 101. The teeth 102 promote the attachment of the eyelashes by their oblique orientation relative to the elongation axis Y. Finally, the relatively small spacing between the adjacent application members 20 also contributes to the attachment of the eyelashes, these being able to engage in the space 111. In the illustrated example, the lateral arcs 100 of two adjacent application members are joined at their base. The number of application members 20 is equal to eight. As illustrated in Figure 10, the elements 10 may be angularly offset due to the twisting of the core. In the example of figures 11 and 12, the hollow application members 20 have a general sagittal shape, with a strand of material 120 which has a succession of convex broken arcs towards the outside, elbows being formed at the junction of these arcs. The application members 20 each have a symmetrical shape relative to their respective elongation axis Y. The strand of material successively describes, starting from the core 12, a first arc 121, a second arc 122 and a third arc 123. The two arcs 123 join together to form a tooth at the top of the application member 20. The arcs 121 and 122 form at their junction, opposite the cavity 14, a hollow 128 which can accommodate the composition. The same applies to the arcs 122 and 123 which form a hollow 129. In the example of figure 11, the hollow application members 20 are joined at their base. The elements 10 may be angularly offset due to the twisting of the core, as illustrated in Figure 12. In the examples which have just been described with reference to Figures 3 to 12, the application members are each of flattened shape in the flattening plane of the core 12, and have a thickness, measured along the X axis of the core 12, which is less than or equal to the thickness of the latter. The application members can be given another orientation, without departing from the scope of the present invention, as will now be described with reference to Figures 13 to 20. In the examples of these figures, each element 10 has a core 12 that is thicker than in the examples previously described, and the application members are each flattened in shape in a plane that contains a radius and the axis X of the core 12. In the example of figures 13 and 14, the elements 10 each have an alternation of hollow application members 20 and solid application members 30 of the same shape as those of the example of figures 2 and 3. However, in this example, the application members are more numerous, and are not joined at their base, the gap between two consecutive application members in the circumferential direction being, for example, greater than the thickness of an application member. Element 10, for example, comprises eighteen application members, half of which are hollow. Figure 14 illustrates the angular offset between the application members caused by the twisting of the branches 9a and 9b of the core. In the example of figures 15 and 16, the application members 20 are identical to those of the example of figures 5 and 6. Their arrangement on the core 12 is identical to that of the example of figure 13. In the example of figures 17 and 18, the application members 20 are identical to those of the example of figures 7 and 8. Their arrangement on the core 12 is identical to that of the example of figure 13. In the examples just described, the hollow application members define closed cavities. It is possible to produce the hollow application members with quasi-closed cavities. By way of example, Figure 3A shows an example of such a hollow application member 20', the outer contour of which is substantially identical to that of a hollow application member 20 of the example of Figure 3 except for an interruption 130 of the strand of material 44, this interruption being of width e less than or equal to 0.3 mm, better still 0.2 mm, even better still 0.1 mm. The interruption 130 can provide more flexibility, allow, if necessary, access of the eyelash to the cavity 14' delimited by the strand of material 44, and can also promote the filling of the cavity 14' with the product when the applicator part 5 is in the container. In the illustrated example, the interruption 130 is positioned at the top of the application member, but it could be elsewhere, for example at the connection to the core 12. Quasi-closed cavities can still be formed between two adjacent application members of the same element 10, when these have portions sufficiently close together elsewhere than at their base. This is for example the case of the examples of figures 5 to 9 described above when the interval e between the adjacent application members, at the level for example of the enlarged heads 60 or the teeth 86 or 102 is sufficiently small, namely less than or equal to 0.3 mm, better than 0.2 mm, even better than 0.1 mm. A small gap e may also tend to maintain a certain quantity of composition outside the application members, for example in the hollow 68 formed between the convex surfaces defining the top of the heads 60 in the example of figure 5. This may facilitate access of the eyelashes to the composition with which the applicator part 5 is loaded. In these examples of Figures 5 and 7, at least some of the application members between which these quasi-closed cavities are formed are hollow. We will now describe with reference to figures 21 to 28 variant embodiments without hollow application members 20. In the example of figures 21 and 22, the element 10 comprises an alternation of application members 30a and 30b which follow one another in the circumferential direction around the core 12. The application members 30a and 30b each have a general V shape, with two diverging branches 140 towards the outside for the element 30a and two diverging branches 150 for the element 30b. The opening angle of the Vs is for example between 15 and 60°, better between 30 and 45°. The branches 140 are bent outwards at their distal end and have two end portions 141 oriented perpendicular to the elongation axis Y, which is an axis of symmetry for the application member and merges with a radius. The branches 150 are also bent at their distal end but with a greater angle than the branches 140 so that the end portions 151 formed by the bends each form an acute angle c with the corresponding portion 152 of the branch which connects to the core 12. The 140 branches are joined at their base. The same is true of the 150 branches. The application members 30a and 30b thus each form two reliefs suitable for improving the grip of the eyelashes during makeup. The attachment is particularly marked with the application members 30b due to the orientation of the end portions 151. In the example illustrated, the interval e between the free end of a portion 151 and the adjacent branch 140 of the neighboring application member 30a is small and less than 0.3 mm, better than 0.2 mm, even better than 0.1 mm, such that two application members 30a and 30b form between them a quasi-closed cavity 156, capable of accumulating a certain quantity of composition. The portions 141 and 151 may also define between them a space opening onto the outside and containing composition, the latter being able to be retained between said portions due to its viscosity. This accumulation of composition at a relatively large radial distance from the core facilitates access of the eyelashes to the composition. In the example of figures 23 and 24 each element 10 of the applicator part 5 comprises a succession of identical application members 160, for example 14 in number. Each application member 160 has a foot 161 which extends along the elongation axis Y, and comprises four successive elbows 162 to 165, each at a right angle in the example considered. Elbow 162 is directed clockwise, elbow 163 outward, elbow 164 counterclockwise and elbow 165 outward. The elbows 163 and 164 form a groove 167 whose bottom is defined by a segment 168 of the application member. The distal portion of the application member is defined by a segment 169 which is parallel to the segment 168 and perpendicular to the segment 170 which forms with the foot 161 the elbow 162. Segment 169 is offset from foot 161 on the side of segment 168. The interval e between the elbows 162 and 163 of two consecutive application members on the element 10 is relatively small, being much less than the distance between the feet of these application members at their base. When the interval e is less than 0.3 mm, better than 0.2 mm, even better than 0.1 mm, the feet 161 constitute with the segment 168 which is directed from one of the application members towards the other, a quasi-closed cavity 166 where the composition can accumulate. The groove 167 makes it possible to constitute a reserve of composition at a radial distance from the core, which allows the eyelashes to be loaded without them having to sink deeply into the applicator part. The segment 172 which defines with the distal segment 169 the elbow 164 also makes it possible to retain composition on a surface radially distant from the core 12. Furthermore, the notch formed by the succession of elbows 162 to 164 constitutes a sort of hook suitable for improving the grip of the eyelashes on the applicator part 5. The distal segments 169 provide a surface with a high capacity for separating the eyelashes, as they facilitate the engagement of the eyelashes between the application members. Various variations can be made to this example, particularly with regard to the shape of the aforementioned groove, which can be V-shaped in one variant, in which case the number of bends is reduced to three. In other variants, the number of bends is higher. We will now describe with reference to figures 25 and 26 an alternative embodiment of the applicator part 5. In this example, the element 10 only carries solid application members 30. Each application member 30 comprises a radial branch 300, provided at the end with an X-shaped head 301, having two inner branches 302 oriented at 90° to each other towards the core 12, and two outer branches 303 oriented at 90° to each other towards the outside. The center of the X is located on the elongation axis Y of the application member 30. The length 5 of the branches 302 and 303 is for example between 0.1 and 3 mm, this length being able to be identical or not for the different branches of the head 301. In the example considered, the branches 302 and 303 extend at an angle of approximately 45° with the axis of elongation. The inner branches 302 form hooks suitable for gripping the eyelashes engaged in the applicator part. Their inward orientation allows the eyelashes to be securely hooked. The outer branches 303 define a bend at their junction and a cavity 305 open towards the outside, in which the composition can accumulate by surface tension, while remaining easily accessible for the cilia. The bottom of the cavity 305 is located at a distance q from the core 12 of, for example, between 0.5 and 7.5 mm, better between 1 and 6 mm. The ratio qlh, where h is the total height of the application member, is preferably greater than or equal to 25%, better still 50% The elements 10 can be angularly offset around the longitudinal axis Z of the core, due to the twisting of the latter. The element 10 shown in figure 27 comprises an alternation of application members 400 and 410 in the circumferential direction, around the core 12. The application members 400 consist of radial branches of section decreasing as they approach their free end, the elongation axis Y of which coincides with a radius. The application members 410 have an enlarged base 403, of triangular shape when observed along the X axis of the core 12, which is joined at the level of the core 12 with the base of the adjacent radial branches 400. Two V-shaped branches 405 connect to the top of the base 403, these branches 405 extending in the continuity of the sides 403a of the base 403 and forming at their junction an elbow and between them a cavity 408 open towards the outside. The branches 405 extend symmetrically from each other with respect to the elongation axis Y. The depth n of this cavity, measured along the elongation axis Y, is for example greater than or equal to 0.1 mm, better to 0.5 mm. The ratio n / h, where h denotes the height of the application organ, is for example between 25% and 50% The distance hn from the bottom of the cavity 408 to the surface of the core 12 is for example between 1.9 mm and 7.9 mm, better between 1.5 mm and 4 mm. The composition can accumulate in the cavities 408, at a non-zero radial distance from the surface of the core 12. Figure 28 illustrates the angular offset between the elements 10 due to the twisting of the core. Of course, the invention is not limited to the examples which have just been described. For example, the number of application members may be different in each of the examples. Elements 10 which are not identical, for example being made of different materials, in particular of different hardnesses, and / or with application members of different shapes, can be stacked on the core. The core can be given a curvature, so that the applicator part extends along a curved longitudinal axis. Hollow application members can be given other shapes, in particular by making them with at least one internal bridge of material to form two internal cavities.

Claims

CLAIMS 1. Applicator for applying a cosmetic composition to the eyelashes or eyebrows, comprising: - a soul (9), - at least one element (10) attached to the core, each element comprising a core (12) engaged on the core and at least one application member carried by the core, this application member comprising a strand of material having at least one bend defining a composition accumulation surface, the strand of material describing at least one groove (45, 167).

2. Applicator for applying a cosmetic composition to the eyelashes or eyebrows, comprising: - a soul (9), - at least one element (10) attached to the core, each element comprising a core (12) engaged on the core and at least one application member carried by the core, this application member comprising a strand of material having at least one bend defining a composition accumulation surface, the application member (60) comprising a widened head comprising two arcs (65, 66) forming bends by joining, one (65) of the arcs defining a composition accumulation surface.

3. Applicator for applying a cosmetic composition to the eyelashes or eyebrows, comprising: - a soul (9), - at least one element (10) attached to the core, each element comprising a core (12) engaged on the core and at least one application member carried by the core, this application member comprising a strand of material having at least one bend defining a composition accumulation surface, the strand of material being of serrated shape, comprising a succession of broken arcs (82, 83) concave towards the outside, or of sagittal shape, comprising a succession of broken arcs convex towards the outside.

4. Applicator for applying a cosmetic composition to the eyelashes or eyebrows, comprising: - a soul (9), - at least one element (10) attached to the core, each element comprising a core (12) engaged on the core and at least one application member carried by the core, this application member comprising a strand of material having at least one bend defining a surface for accumulating composition, the application member comprising two lateral branches (100) joined together to form bends by an arc (101) at the end.

5. Applicator for applying a cosmetic composition to the eyelashes or eyebrows, comprising: - a soul (9), - at least one element (10) attached to the core, each element comprising a core (12) engaged on the core and at least one application member carried by the core, this application member comprising a strand of material having at least one bend defining a surface for accumulating composition, the application member having a general V shape with bends at the ends of the V.

6. Applicator for applying a cosmetic composition to the eyelashes or eyebrows, comprising: - a soul (9), at least one element (10) attached to the core, each element comprising a core (12) engaged on the core and at least one application member carried by the core, this application member comprising a strand of material having at least one bend defining a composition accumulation surface, the application member comprising a strand of material bent in a V forming two branches diverging radially outwards, - the application member comprising an X-shaped head (301) connected to the core by a radial branch (300) or the application member comprising an enlarged base (403), triangular in shape when observed along the X axis of the core (12), the two V-shaped branches (405) connect to the top of the base (403), these branches 405 extending in the continuity of the sides (403a) of the base (403).

7. Applicator according to any one of claims 1, 3, 4 and 6, the strand of material forming at least one concavity (45; 89; 109; 128,129; 167; 305; 408) open towards the outside, in particular radially towards the outside or in a circumferential direction, and located at a non-zero radial distance from the core (12).

8. Applicator according to claim 1, the strand of material (44) describing from the core a first bend (51) to form a widened base (41), which extends by a portion (52) defining a groove (45).

9. Applicator according to one of claims 1 and 8, the groove (45) being U-shaped.

10. Applicator according to one of claims 8 and 9, said portion (52) connecting to an arc (53) which forms the top of an enlarged head (40) of the application member.

11. Applicator according to one of claims 1 and 7, the application member comprising a foot (161) which connects radially to the core (12), a first elbow (162) substantially at a right angle, a second elbow (163) substantially at a right angle towards the outside, a third elbow (164) substantially at a right angle towards the axis of elongation (Y) of the foot (161) and a fourth elbow (165) substantially at a right angle towards the outside, a distal portion (169) of the application member being straight and eccentric relative to the axis of elongation (Y) of the foot (161).

12. Applicator according to claim 5, the element (10) comprising an alternation of a first application member having a general V shape with bends oriented substantially perpendicular to a median plane for the application member, and a second application member having bends oriented towards the core (12).

13. Applicator according to any one of the preceding claims, the axes of elongation (Y) of the application members of an element (10) being coplanar.

14. Applicator according to any one of the preceding claims, at least one application member of an element (10) being flattened along a plane, in particular each application member of the same element (10) being flattened along a flattening plane common to all the application members of the element (10).

15. Applicator according to claim 14, the application members of an element (10) having their flattening plane oriented in a plane containing the axis (X) of the core (12).

16. Packaging and application device comprising: - a container containing the composition to be applied, - an applicator as defined in any one of the claims previous. PROJECT 17. Method for cosmetic treatment of eyelashes and / or eyebrows, in particular for making them up, comprising the step of applying a cosmetic composition to the eyelashes using an applicator according to any one of claims 1 to 15.