Solid COSMETIC composition

Abstract

Solid COSMETIC composition The invention relates to a solid composition intended for cleaning the skin or appendages comprising more than 50% of surfactants chosen from the group of acylglutamates in the form of sodium salts.

Description

Title of the invention: Solid COSMETIC composition

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of hygiene and cosmetics, and more precisely to the field of solid cleansing cosmetic compositions comprising surfactants used for cleaning the skin or appendages.

[0002] The compositions in liquid form include water which can lead to the possibility of microbial growth and ecological problems due to the use of large quantities of water and the requirement to use preservatives.

[0003] There is also a growing demand for cosmetic compositions whose ingredients are bio-sourced and do not cause harmful effects on the skin or appendages.

[0004] It is therefore important to obtain solid foaming compositions in solid form which, while preserving the integrity of the skin and hair, are pleasant to use, i.e. which quickly transform into foam and are easy to rinse.

[0005] Within the scope of the present application, a certain number of definitions must be given.

[0006] The term "solid" means an object characterized on a macroscopic scale by a determined volume and shape, constant in the absence of any external force or extreme condition.

[0007] "Percentage by mass" means a quantity defined as a percentage between the mass of a compound and the total mass of a composition comprising it. For example, if 10 grams of a compound y are present in a composition z having a total mass of 100 grams, then the percentage by mass of y in z is 10%.

[0008] "Mass ratio" means the ratio between the mass of two compounds present in the same composition. For example, if a composition comprises 3 grams of compound f and 1 gram of compound g, then the mass ratio f / g is 3 / 1 or 3.

[0009] A composition according to the invention may also comprise other ingredients, in particular binders, solvents, absorbent agents, skin conditioning agents, hair conditioning agents, emulsion stabilizers, foaming agents, emollients, missing agents, pH regulators, opacifiers, as well as other cosmetically acceptable ingredients.

[0010] In one embodiment, the solid cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises less than 10% water, as a percentage by mass relative to the total mass of said solid cosmetic composition.

[0011] In one embodiment, the solid cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises less than 5% water, as a percentage by mass relative to the total mass of said solid cosmetic composition. In one embodiment, the solid cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises less than 2% water, as a percentage by mass relative to the total mass of said solid cosmetic composition. In one embodiment, the solid cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises less than 1% water, as a percentage by mass relative to the total mass of said solid cosmetic composition.

[0012] In one embodiment, the surfactants are chosen from the group of anionic surfactants and more particularly acylglutamates in the form of sodium salts for their non-irritant and non-delipidating properties. Indeed, acylglutamates, whatever the fatty chain, do not eliminate the lipids from the intercellular cement essential for the proper water retention of the horny layer due to their selective cleansing power.

[0013] US6482782 discloses solid cosmetic compositions intended for cleaning the skin or appendages comprising acylglutamates in the form of triethylamine salts. Triethanolamine or more commonly called TEA is a basic tertiary amine, by using it as a counterion of acylglutamates it is used as a pH adjuster, for its surfactant and emulsifying properties.

[0014] But the manufacture of this tertiary amine is extremely polluting and it is suspected of being toxic to the skin.

[0015] In one embodiment, the solid cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it is free of triethanolamine salts.

[0016] In most solid cosmetic compositions intended for cleaning the skin or appendages, the surfactant sodium cocoyl isethionate or SCI, which is a surfactant derived from coconut oil and presented in the form of granulated powder, is used. It is used in combination with Sodium coco sulfate or SLSA, in particular to formulate solid shampoos while providing a rich and creamy foam. Although it is sulfate-free, this surfactant resulting from reactions using ethylene oxide is not compatible with an ecological approach, and its use in combination with Sodium coco sulfate or SLSA results in the presence of sulfate in large quantities in the formulations.

[0017] In one embodiment, the solid cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it is free of sodium cocoyl isethionate or SCI.

[0018] In one embodiment, the solid cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it is free from Sodium coco sulfate or SLSA.

[0019] The use of acylglutamates in the form of sodium salts in solid formulations does not allow the composition to be easily solidified and, above all, formulations which foam cannot be obtained, because sodium cocoyl glutamate in particular does not foam.

[0020] Surprisingly, a solid composition intended for cleaning the skin or appendages comprising more than 50% of surfactants chosen from the group of acylglutamates in the form of sodium salts has been able to be developed with satisfactory solidification and foam formation properties.

[0021] The invention relates to a solid composition intended for cleaning the skin or appendages comprising more than 50% of surfactants chosen from the group of acylglutamates in the form of sodium salts.

[0022] In one embodiment, it relates to a composition, characterized in that the acylglutamates are chosen from the group consisting of sodium lauroyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate and sodium myristoyl glutamate.

[0023] In one embodiment, it relates to a composition, characterized in that the sodium lauroyl glutamate content is in mass percentage between 25 and 40%.

[0024] In one embodiment, it relates to a composition, characterized in that the content of disodium cocoyl glutamate is in mass percentage between 8 and 25%.

[0025] In one embodiment, it relates to a composition, characterized in that the sodium myristoyl glutamate content is in mass percentage between 5 and 15%.

[0026] In one embodiment, the composition further comprises at least one non-ionic surfactant chosen from the glucoside family, such as decylglucoside or Decyl-[3-D-glucopyranoside.

[0027] In one embodiment, it relates to a composition, characterized in that the content of decylglucoside or Decyl-[3-D-glucopyranoside] is in mass percentage between 5 and 15%

[0028] In one embodiment, the composition further comprises at least one catalytic or conditioning surfactant chosen from plant-derived products, such as the mixture designated under the INCI code arachidyl / behenyl betainate isylate (and) arachidyl / behenyl alcohol.

[0029] In one embodiment, it relates to a composition, characterized in that the content of INCI arachidyl / behenyl betainate isylate (and) arachidyl / behenyl alcohol is in mass percentage between 3 and 10%.

[0030] The composition according to the invention also has the advantage of being easily hydratable on the surface in contact with water or a wet surface at the time of use.

[0031] In one embodiment, the solid cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it further comprises a perfume.

[0032] In one embodiment, the solid cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises between 0.1 and 1.5% of said perfume, as a percentage by mass of said solid cosmetic composition.

[0033] In one embodiment, the solid cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that said solid cosmetic composition has a mass of between 10 and 1000 grams.

[0034] In one embodiment, the solid cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that said solid cosmetic composition has a mass of between 50 and 500 grams.

[0035] In one embodiment, the solid cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that said solid cosmetic composition has a mass of between 50 and 250 grams.

[0036] In one embodiment, the solid cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that said solid cosmetic composition has a volume of between 7 and 1200 cm3.

[0037] In one embodiment, the solid cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that said solid cosmetic composition has a volume of between 50 and 600 cm3.

[0038] In one embodiment, the solid cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that said solid cosmetic composition has a volume of between 100 and 300 cm3.

[0039] In one embodiment, the solid cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it is in the form of a parallelepiped, a cylinder, a bar, a sphere or a cube.

[0040] In one embodiment, the solid cosmetic composition according to the invention is obtained by molding.

[0041] In one embodiment, the solid cosmetic composition according to the invention is obtained by extrusion followed by cutting.

[0042] In one embodiment, the solid cosmetic composition according to the invention is obtained by extrusion in divided form like granules.

[0043] In one embodiment, the solid cosmetic composition according to the invention is a solid cleansing cosmetic composition used in the presence of water, for example in a shower, under running water or in a bath.

[0044] The invention also relates to the use of a solid cosmetic composition according to the invention.

[0045] The invention also relates to the use of a solid cosmetic composition according to the invention, for washing the integument (skin, appendages).

[0046] The invention also relates to the use of a solid cosmetic composition according to the invention, for washing the skin.

[0047] The invention also relates to the use of a solid cosmetic composition according to the invention, for washing the appendages.

[0048] The invention also relates to the use of a solid cosmetic composition according to the invention, for washing hair.

[0049] The invention also relates to the use of a solid cosmetic composition according to the invention, for washing mucous membranes.

[0050] The composition according to the invention may further comprise any additive capable of being used in the field of compositions intended for the skin or integuments.

[0051] In particular, it may comprise mineral, animal, vegetable, synthetic or silicone oils, said oils being able to be volatile or not, pasty fatty substances, conditioners, emollients, waxes of animal, mineral, vegetable or synthetic origin, gelling agents, perfumes, possibly film-forming polymers, pH regulating agents, sequestering agents, pigments, fillers; cosmetic or pharmaceutical active ingredients.

[0052] Among the oils and fatty substances, we will notably mention avocado oil, coconut oil or shea butter.

[0053] Among the emollients, mention will be made in particular of amino acid esters such as L-Proline, 5-oxo-, 2-hydroxy-3-[(l-oxo-9-octadecenyl)oxy]propyl ester, (Z) or PCA glyceryl oleate, or mixtures of mono, di and triglycerides derived from different forms of Brassica oil marketed under the INCI name brassica glycerides.

[0054] The nature of this or these additives and / or their quantity will be adapted so that the desired properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, altered by the envisaged addition.

[0055] Examples

[0056] The compositions according to the invention are prepared according to the process described below.

[0057] Two phases are prepared: phase A, in particulate form (sandy paste) obtained by mixing the solid and / or slightly hydrated ingredients

[0058] Then a phase B is prepared by mixing and melting a fatty phase.

[0059] The two phases are then mixed thoroughly and ground again until obtaining a homogeneous paste.

[0060] The dough is then kneaded and pressed into a mold

[0061] After being left to harden for 30 minutes, it is removed from the mold and left to dry in the open air for 24 hours.

[0062] According to this process the following formulations are prepared.

[0063] A - Gentle cleansing bread

[0064] [Tables 1] Phases INCI designation % MP Qsp 100 A Sodium myristoyl glutamate powder Sodium Myristoyl Glutamate 8.00 A Organic corn starch Zea Mays Starch 8.00 A FRAG Divine Vanilla Parfum 1.40 A Palm-free sugar mousse Decyl Glucoside, Aqua 10.00 A Vitamin E Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Tocopherol 0.20 A Superfine white clay Kaolin 1.00 A Organic colloidal oat powder Avena sativa kernel flour 1.00 A Sodium lauroyl glutamate Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate 27.00 A Sodium cocoyl glutamate powder Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Aqua 20.00 A HV Organic rice bran Oryza Sativa Bran Oil 4.00 A FRAG Gourmet Vanilla Parfum 1.40 B Organic white cocoa butter pasti lies Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter 5.00 B Brassica Glycerides Brassica Glycerides 13.00 B - Purity cleansing bar

[0065] [Tables2] Pha ses INCI designation % MP Qsp 100 A Palm-free sugar mousse Decyl Glucoside, Aqua 10.00 A Organic Neem powder Azadirachta Indica Leaf Extract 4.25 A Vitamin E Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Tocopherol 0.20 A Sodium cocoyl glutamate powder Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Aqua 21.00 A Organic Nigella sativa seed oil 4.00 A Sodium myristoyl glutamate powder Sodium Myristoyl Glutamate 8.00 A Organic Spearmint oil Mentha Spicata Herb Oil 0.20 A Green Tea Perfume 2.50 A Organic Tea Tree oil Melaleuca Altemifolia Leaf Oil 0.05 A Superfine Montmorillonite Green Clay Montmorillonite, Illite 4.80 A Sodium lauroyl glutamate Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate 27.00 B Brassica Glycerides Brassica Glycerides 13.00 B Sal Butter BIO Shorea Robusta Seed Butter 5.00 C - Nourishing shampoo

[0066] [Tables3] Pha ses INCI designation % MP Qsp 100 A Organic Corn Starch Zea Mays Starch 3.05 A FC Theobroma Parfum 0.25 A FRAG Coconut Delight Parfum 3.50 A Organic Avocado HV Persea Gratissima Oil 2.00 A Organic Coconut HV Cocos Nucifera Oil 2.00 A Organic Coconut Milk Powder Cocos nucifera milk powder 2.00 A Palm-Free Sugar Mousse Decyl Glucoside, Aqua 10.00 A PCA Glyceryl oleate PCA Glyceryl Oleate 1.50 A Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate Powder Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Aqua 10.00 A Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate 37.00 A Sodium Myristoyl Glutamate Powder Sodium Myristoyl Glutamate 10.00 A Tego Solve 90 Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Aqua 5.00 A Vitamin E Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Tocopherol 0.20 B Refined ORGANIC Shea Butter Butyrospermum Parkii Butter 1.00 B Brassica Glycerides Brassica Glycerides 2.50 B CosmeGreen ES 1822+ Arachidyl / Behenyl Alcohol, Arachidyl / Behenyl Betainate Esylate 10.00 D - Purifying shampoo

[0067] [Tables4] Pha ses INCI Designation % MP Qsp 100 A Organic Corn Starch Zea Mays Starch 4.30 A Superfine Montmorillonite Green Clay Montmorillonite, Illite 1.70 A FRAG Green Tea Parfum 1.00 A Organic Spearmint EO Mentha Spicata Herb Oil 0.08 A Organic White Grapefruit EO Citrus Paradisi Peel Oil 0.56 A Organic Rosemary Verbenone EO B 10 Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil (Verbenone) 0.16 A Organic Bay Berry Oil Laurus Nobilis Fruit Oil 1.00 A Palm-Free Sugar Foam Decyl Glucoside, Aqua 10.00 A Organic Stinging Nettle Powder Urtica Dioica Leaf Extract 4.50 A PCA Glyceryl Oleate PCA Glyceryl Oleate 1.50 A Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate Powder Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Aqua 10.00 A Sodium lauroyl glutamate Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate 37.00 A Sodium myristoyl glutamate powder Sodium Myristoyl Glutamate 10.00 A Tego Solve 90 Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Aqua 5.00 A Vitamin E Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Tocopherol 0.20 B Brassica Glycerides Brassica Glycerides 7,00 B CosmeGreen ES 1822+ Arachidyl / Behenyl Alcohol, Arachidyl / Behenyl Betainate Esylate 6.00, E - Fortifying shampoo

[0068] [Tables5] Pha ses Désignation INCI % MP Qsp 100 A Mousse de sucre sans palme Decyl Glucoside, Aqua 10,00 A Manjishta poudre Rubia Cordifolia Root Powder 0,30 A HV Moutarde BIO Brassica Nigra Seed (Oil) 3,00 A Sodium lauroyl glutamate Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate 37,00 A Sodium cocoyl glutamate en poudre Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Aqua 10,00 A Vitamine E Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Tocopherol 0,10 A PCA Glyceryl oleate Pca Glyceryl Oleate 1,50 A Amla BIO poudre # Emblica Officinalis Fruit P owder 1,00 A Tego Solve 90 Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate, Po lyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Aqua 5,00 A Amidon de maïs BIO Zea Mays Starch 4,10 A FRAG Mangue tropicale Parfum 0,98 A HE Cannelle tamala BIO Cinnamomum Tamala Leaf 0 il 0,05 A HV Hibiscus BIO Hibiscus Sabdariffa Seed Oil 2,00 A Sodium myristoyl glutamate poudre Sodium Myristoyl Glutamate 10,00 A HE Orange douce BIO Citrus Sinensis Peel Oil Expre ssed 1,97 B CosmeGreen ES 1822+ Arachidyl / Behenyl Alcohol, Arachidyl / Behenyl Betainate Esylate 6,00 B Brassica Glycerides Brassica Glycerides 7,00,

Claims

Claims

1. Solid composition intended for cleaning the skin or appendages comprising more than 50% of surfactants chosen from the group of acylglutamates in the form of sodium salts comprising sodium lauroyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate and sodium myristoyl glutamate.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it is free from triethanolamine salts.

3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the sodium lauroyl glutamate content is in mass percentage between 25 and 40%.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of disodium cocoyl glutamate is in mass percentage between 8 and 25%.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of sodium myristoyl glutamate is in mass percentage between 5 and 15%.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is obtained by mixing the ingredients with a step of melting the fatty phase.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is obtained by extrusion followed by cutting.