A cosmetic composition comprising water, vanillin or one of its derivatives, niacinamide or one of its derivatives, and possibly at least one additional antimicrobial agent
A cosmetic composition using (Ci-C6)(alkyl)vanillin and pyridine derivatives, combined with optional antimicrobials, addresses microbial stability and odor issues, ensuring effective antimicrobial protection against bacterial strains, yeasts, and molds at elevated temperatures.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2021014121
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2021-12-21
- Publication Date
- 2025-11-07
- Estimated Expiration
- 2041-12-21
AI Technical Summary
Existing cosmetic, pharmaceutical, and food products face challenges in maintaining microbial integrity due to microbial contamination during manufacturing and use, despite stringent production controls, necessitating preservatives that are stable, non-odorous, and do not generate resistance, especially at elevated temperatures.
A cosmetic composition comprising (Ci-C6)(alkyl)vanillin, pyridine substituted at position 3 by an amide group, and optionally additional antimicrobials like C2 to C6 alkanols or C2 to C10 polyols, which remain effective and stable for several weeks or months at temperatures between 37°C and 45°C without significant odor change.
The composition effectively prevents microbial growth, maintaining stability and odorlessness over time, effectively inhibiting bacterial strains, yeasts, and molds, while avoiding resistance development.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Cosmetic composition comprising water, vanillin or one of its derivatives, niacinamide or one of its derivatives, and optionally at least one additional antimicrobial
[0001] The present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, comprising water and:
[0002] i) at least one (Ci-C6)(alkyl)vanillin, one of its organic or mineral base salts, or one of its solvates such as hydrates, preferably vanillin;
[0003] ii) at least one pyridine substituted at position 3 by an amide group RR'NC(O)- or one of its solvates such as hydrates; and
[0004] iii) optionally at least one additional antimicrobial, preferably chosen from C2 to C6 alkanols, C2 to C10 polyols and mixtures thereof.
[0005] Microorganisms can survive and multiply in water-containing products, whether cosmetic, pharmaceutical, or food. Preservatives are generally added to industrial preparations intended for storage or preservation to prevent microbial growth over time.
[0006] Microbial contamination can occur during the manufacture of industrial products, even when the starting ingredients used in said products are "clean," i.e., free of contaminating microorganisms. Water, for example, which is ubiquitous in most cosmetic, pharmaceutical, or food products, must be free of contaminating microorganisms. Other ingredients must also be screened for the presence of contaminating microorganisms.
[0007] Cleanliness during the manufacture of these industrial products, the processing of the contents, and the filling of the containers must be meticulously monitored. Despite these precautions, the microbial integrity of the products may require the presence of one or more preservatives compatible with the product and the stability of its composition. The preservatives must not allow the growth or viability of contaminating microorganisms.
[0008] Even if a restrictive production in a sterile environment can be industrially feasible, maintaining sterility over repeated uses is in itself a problem, in particular when the product can be touched with fingers and / or instruments such as applicators, and / or when its container can be opened and closed, because all these manipulations are a source of contamination.
[0009] The use of preservatives is therefore common practice to reduce microbial contamination introduced by consumers under normal conditions of use. As a general rule, pathogenic microorganisms must be absent from all marketed products, particularly cosmetics.
[0010] Compounds useful for the microbial protection of compositions, particularly cosmetics, must also be stable to guarantee their long-term effectiveness and must not exhibit solubility, odor, and / or compatibility characteristics that make them difficult to use. Furthermore, it is desirable to diversify the compounds usable for antimicrobial protection to avoid generating resistance.
[0011] There is therefore a need for new ingredients or new mixtures ingredients that are effective in the antimicrobial protection of compositions, particularly cosmetics, that are stable, easily formulate and that do not generate odor or color after incorporation into said compositions, particularly after several months of storage at a temperature greater than or equal to 25°C, particularly between 37°C and 45°C.
[0012] In addition, there is also a need to formulate compositions which include several antimicrobials, which remain stable over time, and which in particular do not change in appearance and / or color over time, even after several weeks or even several months of storage at a temperature greater than or equal to 25 °C, in particular between 37 °C and 45 °C.
[0013] The present invention meets these needs.
[0014] Surprisingly, the Applicant identified mixtures of compounds i) and ii) exhibiting clear antimicrobial efficacy. These specific mixtures remain stable even after several weeks, or even several months, at room temperature or even at temperatures above 25°C, particularly between 37°C and 45°C.
[0015] Moreover, such mixtures do not develop an unpleasant odor over time. Furthermore, no significant change in odor has been observed over time, even after several weeks of storage.
[0016] The present invention thus relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic one, comprising water and: i. at least one (Ci-C6)(alkyl)vanillin, one of its organic or mineral base salts, or one of its solvates such as hydrates; ii. at least one pyridine substituted at position 3 by an amide group RR'NC(O)- or one of its solvates such as hydrates, with R and R', identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom, a (Ci-C6)alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl, a (C2-C6)alkenyl group such as allyl, or a (hetero)aryl(Ci-C4)alkyl group such as benzyl or pycolyl; and iii. possibly at least one additional antimicrobial, preferably chosen from C2 to C6 alkanols, C2 to C10 polyols and mixtures thereof.
[0017] The combination of i), ii) and possibly iii) corresponds to the antimicrobial mixture.
[0018] The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment method for keratinous materials, comprising applying a composition according to the invention to said keratinous materials. The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for the care, makeup, and / or cleansing of keratinous materials, comprising applying a composition according to the invention to said keratinous materials.
[0019] The invention also relates to a method for preserving a composition Cl comprising a physiologically acceptable medium comprising water, in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition Cl, which includes the incorporation of compounds i) and ii) and optionally iii) according to the invention in said composition CL. By "physiologically acceptable medium" is meant a medium compatible with the skin, mucous membranes and / or hair appendages (including keratin fibers, in particular human hair).
[0020] The invention also relates to the use of a composition according to the invention as an antimicrobial agent, in particular against bacterial strains (e.g. Enterococcus faecalis), yeasts (e.g. Candida albicans) and / or molds (e.g. Aspergillus brasiliensis). i) Vamlline and alkoxylated derivative
[0021] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one (Ci-C6)(alkyl)vanillin or one of its basic organic or mineral salts, or one of its solvates such as hydrates.
[0022] By "(Ci-C6)(alkyl)vanillin", we mean vanillin i.e. 3-methoxy-4-hydroxybenzaldehyde, and its derivatives having a (C2-C6)alkyl group in place of the methyl of the methoxy in position 3 of the 4-hydroxybenzaldehyde.
[0023] More specifically, the (Ci-C6)(alkyl)vanillin of the invention has the following formula (I): [Chem 1] n. .h (i) OH
[0024] Formula (I) in which R” represents a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, linear or branched, preferably a (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl, more preferably methyl.
[0025] A "(Ci-C6)alkyl group" is a linear, Ci-C6 saturated hydrocarbon radical or branched, preferably C1-C4 ((Ci-C4)alkyl group) such as methyl or ethyl.
[0026] (Ci-C6)(alkyl)vanillin, its organic or mineral base salts, or its solvates such as hydrates, may be of natural or synthetic origin. According to one embodiment of the invention, (Ci-C6)(alkyl)vanillin, its organic or mineral base salts, or its solvates such as hydrates, are in the form of organic or mineral base salt(s), such as alkali metal salts (Na+, K+), alkaline earth metal salts (Mg2+, Ca2+), and ammonium ions. They may be of natural or synthetic origin.
[0027] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises an amount of (Ci-C6)(alkyl)vanillin, its organic or mineral base salts, or its solvates such as hydrates, of between 0.03% and 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.05% and 1% by weight, and even more preferably between 0.1% and 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. ii) Pyridine substituted with an amide group
[0028] The composition according to the invention further comprises at least one pyridine substituted at position 3 by an amide group RR'NC(O)- or one of its solvates such as hydrates, with R and R', identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom, a (Ci-C6)alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl, (C2-C6)alkenyl such as allyl, (hetero)aryl(Ci-C4)alkyl such as benzyl or pycolyl; preferably R and R' represent a hydrogen atom.
[0029] Preferably, the pyridine substituted at position 3 by an amide group RR'NC(O)- of the invention is niacinamide, also called vitamin B3, which has the formula (II):
[0030] [Chem.2] (II), or one of its solvates such as hydrates.
[0031] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises an amount of pyridine substituted at position 3 by an amide group RR'NC(O)- or one of its solvates of between 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1% to 5% by weight. iii) Additional antimicrobial
[0032] The composition according to the invention optionally comprises at least one additional antimicrobial A. Thus, said additional antimicrobial A is not (Cl-C6)(alkyl)vanillin or its salts and / or solvates i), and is also not pyridine substituted at position 3 by an amide group RR'NC(O)- or its solvates ii).
[0033] The term "antimicrobial agent" or "preservative" or "preservative" means any cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable compound that prevents the growth of microorganisms that may occur in compositions, particularly cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions, from their formulation through storage to their normal use by consumers. Examples of preservatives include those described in Cosmetics, Kirk-Othmer Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, John Wiley & Sons, Inc., Martin M. Rieger; 5.2 preservatives & table 3, 04 / 12 / 2000 https: / / doi.org / 10.1002 / 0471238961.0315191318090507.a01 or https: / / library.essentialwholesale.com / alcohol / .
[0034] Preferably, the additional antimicrobial A can be chosen from sodium dehydration droacetate; carboxylic benzene acids possibly substituted on the phenyl group by one or more groups selected from hydroxy, (Ci-CiO)alkyl and (Ci-CiO)alkylacarbonyl, as well as their base salts, in particular of alkali and alkaline earth metals, preferably benzoic acid or sodium benzoate; esters of hydroxybenzoic acid possibly substituted on the phenyl group by one or more groups selected from (Ci-CiO)alkyl such as parabens, in particular methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben or butylparaben; potassium sorbate; salicylic acid possibly substituted by a (Ci-C8)alkylcarbonyl group, preferably salicylic acid;chlorhexidine digluconate, chlorphenesin, polyaminopropyl biguanide, benzyl alcohol, myrtrimonium bromide, LAE (Ethyl Lauroyl Arginate HCl), phenoxyethanol, octopirox, behentrimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, C2 to C6 alkanols, C2 to C10 polyols and mixtures thereof.
[0035] Preferably, said additional antimicrobial A is selected from C2 to C6 alkanols, C2 to C10 polyols and mixtures thereof.
[0036] Preferably, the C2 to C6 alkanol is a C2 to C6 aliphatic monoalcohol. Preferably, said aliphatic monoalcohol comprises from 2 to 4 carbon atoms.
[0037] The term "aliphatic monoalcohol" means any saturated, linear or branched alkane compound having a single hydroxyl (OH) group. The aliphatic monoalcohol(s) present in the compositions of the invention may be chosen from ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol, and mixtures thereof. Ethanol is the preferred choice.
[0038] The term "polyol" means any saturated, linear or branched alkane compound comprising 2 to 10 carbon atoms substituted by at least 2 hydroxyl groups and optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms such as O, N, S, particularly O, preferably with 2 to 4 hydroxyl groups. Preferably, the polyol comprises 2 to 6 carbon atoms.
[0039] Preferably, the polyol having 2 to 10 carbon atoms is chosen from glycerol, diglycerol, propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, pentylene glycol, heptane diols, caprylyl glycol and mixtures thereof, preferably 1,3-propanediol.
[0040] Preferably, said additional antimicrobial A is a mixture of at least one C2 to C10 polyol and / or at least one C2 to C6 alkanol.
[0041] Preferably, the additional antimicrobial A is selected from ethanol, pentylene glycol, 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol and mixtures thereof.
[0042] Preferably, the additional antimicrobial A is a mixture of ethanol, pentylene glycol and 1,3-propanediol.
[0043] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one C2 to C6 alkanol and / or one C2 to C10 polyol in a content ranging from 1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1.5% to 13% by weight, and more preferably from 2% to 8% by weight. pH of the composition
[0044] The pH of the composition according to the invention is generally between 3 and 10 approximately, preferably between 3 and 8 approximately, preferably between 4 and 6 approximately, and preferably between 4 and 5.5, preferably between 4.2 and 5. Preferably, it is approximately 4.6.
[0045] It can be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidifying or alkaline agents usually used for the treatment of keratinous materials or by means of conventional buffer systems.
[0046] Among the acidifying agents, the following may be mentioned: i) hydrochloric acid HCl, ii) hydrobromic acid HBr, iii) sulfuric acid H2SO4, iv) alkylsulfonic acids: Alk-S(O)2OH such as methylsulfonic acid and ethylsulfonic acid; v) arylsulfonic acids: Ar-S(O)2OH such as benzenesulfonic acid and toluenesulfonic acid; vi) citric acid; vii) succinic acid; viii) tartaric acid; ix) lactic acid, x) alkoxysulfinic acids: Alk-OS(O)OH such as methoxysulfinic acid and ethoxysulfinic acid; xi) aryloxysulfinic acids such as tolueneoxysulfinic acid and phenoxysulfinic acid; xii) phosphoric acid H3PO4; xiii) acetic acid CH3C(O)OH; xiv) triflic acid CF3SO3H and xv) tetrafluoro-roboric acid HBF4.In particular, mineral or organic acids as defined above are notably chosen from hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid and sulfonic acids.
[0047] By "alkaline agent" or "base" is meant an agent that increases the pH of the composition in which it is found. The alkalizing agent is a base of Brønsted, Lowry, or Lewis. It can be mineral or organic. Particularly the said agent is chosen from a) ammonia, b) (bi)carbonate, c) alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines and their derivatives d) oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, e) organic amines, f) mineral or organic hydroxides, g) alkali metal silicates such as sodium metasilicates, h) amino acids of basic preference such as arginine, lysine, omithine, citrulline and histidine, and i) compounds of the following formula (F):
[0048] [Chem 3]:
[0049]
[0050] Formula (F) wherein:
[0051] - W is a divalent alkylene radical in the Ci-C6 group, possibly substituted by one or several hydroxyl groups or an alkyl radical in Ci-C6, and / or possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms such as O, or NRU;
[0052] - Rx, Ry, Rz and Rt, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a alkyl radical in Ci-C6 or hydroxyalkyl in Ci-C6, aminoalkyl in Ci-C6.
[0053] Examples of amines of formula (F) include 1,3-diaminopropane, 1,3-diamino 2-propanol, spermine, spermidine.
[0054] By "alkanolamine" is meant an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more alkyl groups, linear or branched, in CrC8 bearing one or more hydroxyl radicals.
[0055] Among the mineral or organic hydroxides, one may mention those chosen from a) the hydroxides of an alkali metal, b) the hydroxides of an alkaline earth metal, such as sodium or potassium hydroxides, c) the hydroxides of a transition metal, d) the hydroxides of lanthanides or actinides, quaternary ammonium hydroxides and guanidinium hydroxide, the mineral or organic hydroxides a) and b) being the preferred.
[0056] Among the bases or alkali agents, we can cite, by way of example, the alkali agents as described below and in particular the natural alkali agents, in particular the preferably basic amino acids such as arginine. iv) Fatty substances
[0057] The composition may also include one or more fatty substances.
[0058] By "fats and oils," we mean an organic compound insoluble in water at ordinary room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg) (solubility less than 5% and preferably less than 1%, even more preferably less than 0.1%). They have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms or a chain of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, fats are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, such as chloroform, ethanol, benzene, petrolatum, or decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane.
[0059] The fat(s) of the invention are of natural or synthetic origin, preferably natural, and more preferably of vegetable origin. These fats are preferably neither polyoxyethylenated nor polyglycerolated. They differ from fatty acids because saline fatty acids constitute soaps that are generally soluble in aqueous media.
[0060] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises one or more non-liquid fats at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure.
[0061] The wax(s)
[0062] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises one or more waxes.
[0063] By "wax" is meant a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 °C), with a reversible solid / liquid change of state, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30 °C which can go up to 200 °C and in particular up to 120 °C.
[0064] In particular, the wax(s) suitable for the invention may have a melting point greater than or equal to 45 °C, and in particular greater than or equal to 55 °C. The composition according to the invention preferably comprises a wax content ranging from 3% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 5% to 15%, more particularly from 6% to 15%.
[0065] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition of the invention is solid, in particular anhydrous. It can then be in stick form; polyethylene micro-waxes in the form of crystallites with a form factor of at least 2 and a melting point ranging from 70 °C to 110 °C, and preferably from 70 °C to 100 °C, will be used in order to reduce or even eliminate the presence of layers in the solid composition.
[0066] The paste compound(s)
[0067] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises one or more paste compounds.
[0068] By "pasty compound" in the context of the present invention, we mean a lipophilic fatty compound with reversible solid / liquid phase change, having in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization, and comprising at a temperature of 23 °C a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
[0069] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises one or more liquid fats at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure, particularly hydrocarbons.
[0070] Preferably the composition of the invention comprises one or more liquid hydrocarbon fats which are in particular selected from hydrocarbons and in C6-C16 or with more than 16 carbon atoms up to 60 carbon atoms, preferably between C6 and C16, and in particular alkanes, oils of animal origin, oils of vegetable origin, glycerides or fluorinated oils of synthetic origin, fatty alcohols, esters of fatty acid and fatty alcohol, silicones.
[0071] In particular, the liquid fat(s) are chosen from non-siliconized oils.
[0072] It is recalled that, for the purposes of the invention, alcohols, esters, and fatty acids more particularly have one or more hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising 6 to 60 carbon atoms, optionally substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (OH) (in particular from 1 to 4 hydroxyl groups). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three unsaturations, preferably of 1 to 3 carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.
[0073] With regard to the C6-Ci6 alkanes, these are linear or branched, possibly cyclic; preferably the fatty substances (iv) of the invention are chosen from linear or branched C8-Ci4 alkanes, more preferably C9-Ci3, and even more preferably C9-C12. Examples include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isodecane, or isododecane. The linear or branched hydrocarbons with more than 16 carbon atoms may be chosen from paraffin oils, petrolatum, polydecenes, and hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®.
[0074] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the fat(s) iv) are hydrocarbon oils, linear or branched, which are volatile, in particular selected from undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, and their mixtures of different oils, preferably volatile including isododecane in the mixture, or a mixture of undecane and tridecane, preferably a mixture of undecane and tridecane.
[0075] According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, the fat(s) iv) are pasty and preferably chosen from fatty alcohols, fatty acid and fatty alcohol esters having more particularly one or two hydrocarbon group(s), linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising 14 to 40 carbon atoms, optionally substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl group(s) OH (in particular from 1 to 4 hydroxyl group(s)); even more preferably chosen from more preferably behenyl behenate, cetearyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate and mixtures thereof.
[0076] Advantageously, the composition comprises one or more fatty substances, in particular liquids at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, preferably one or more oils, of the fatty medium, in a content ranging from 0.01% to 99.9% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 70% by weight, preferably ranging from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably ranging from 5% to 20% by weight. v) Surfactants
[0077] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises one or more surfactants.
[0078] By "surfactant", we mean a "surface agent" or "surfactant" which is a compound capable of modifying the surface tension between two surfaces, surfactants are amphiphilic molecules, i.e. which have two parts of different polarity, one lipophilic and nonpolar and the other hydrophilic and polar.
[0079] The surfactant(s) may be cationic, anionic, non-ionic, or zwitterionic, preferably non-ionic or anionic, more preferably non-ionic.
[0080] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises one or more anionic surfactants.
[0081] The term "anionic surfactant" means a surfactant comprising only anionic groups as ionic or ionizable groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from among the groups -C(O)OH, -C(O)O, -SO3H, -S(O)2O, -OS(O)2OH, -OS(O)2O, -P(O)OH2, -P(O)2O, -P(O)O2, -P(OH)2, =P(O)OH, -P(OH)O, =P(O)O, =POH, =PO, the anionic parts comprising a cationic counter ion such as an alkali metal, an alkaline earth metal, or an ammonium.
[0082] By way of examples of anionic surfactants usable in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamide ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkyl sulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylaryl sulfonates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylsar cosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, salts of alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acylactylates, D-galactoside-uronic acid salts, alkyl ether-carboxylic acid salts, alkyl aryl ether-carboxylic acid salts, alkyl amidoether-carboxylic acid salts, and the corresponding non-salted forms of all these compounds,The alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds contain from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and the aryl group designates a phenyl group.
[0083] These compounds can be oxyethylated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide patterns.
[0084] The salts of C6-C24 alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside-polycarbyl acids can be selected from C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates.
[0085] When the anionic surfactant(s) is / are in salt form, it / they may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium salt and preferably sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohols or alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salts.
[0086] Examples of amino alcohol salts include mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts, mono-, di- or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxy-methyl)aminomethane salts.
[0087] Salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals are preferably used, and in particular salts of sodium or magnesium. Among the anionic surfactants mentioned, alkyl(C6-C24)sulfates and alkyl(C6-C24)ethersulfates comprising 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units are preferred, particularly in the form of salts of alkali metals, ammonium, amino alcohols, and alkaline earth metals, or a mixture of these compounds.
[0088] In particular, alkyl(Ci2-C2O)sulfates and alkyl(Ci2-C2O)ethersulfates comprising 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units, especially in the form of alkali metal, ammonium, amino alcohol, and alkaline earth metal salts, or a mixture of these compounds, are preferred. Even better, sodium lauryl ether sulfate with 2.2 moles of ethylene oxide is preferred.
[0089] According to a preferred embodiment, the surfactant(s) are chosen from among carboxylic fatty acids, in particular comprising at least one linear or branched aliphatic chain in C6-C24, preferably saturated, linear, in particular in Ci4-C20 such as stearic acid.
[0090] Among nonionic surfactants, one can cite, alone or in mixtures, fatty alcohols, alpha-diols, and alkylphenols, these three types of compounds being polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated, and / or polyglycerolated, and having a fatty chain comprising, for example, 8 to 40 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups ranging, in particular, from 2 to 50, and the number of glycerol groups ranging, in particular, from 2 to 30. One can also cite copolymers of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide on fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, and polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular 1,5 to 4; oxyethylenated sorbitan fatty acid esters having 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; sucrose fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, alkyl polyglycosides (or APGs), N-alkyl glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as alkyl (Ci0-Ci4)amine oxides or N-acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides.
[0091] Preferably, the non-ionic surfactant is chosen from glycerolized fatty alcohols; and alkyl polyglycosides from (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols; more preferably alkyl polyglycosides.
[0092] By fatty chain is meant a hydrocarbon chain comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. With regard to alkyl polyglycosides or APGs, these compounds are well known to those skilled in the art (see, for example, Kirk-Othmer's Encyclopedia: http: / / onlinelibrary.wiley.com / doi / 10.1002 / 0471238961.1921180612251414.a01.pub2 / pdf or Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry http: / / onlinelibrary.wiley.com / doi / 10.1002 / 14356007.a25_747 / pdf). These compounds are more particularly represented by the following general formula:
[0093] [Chem 4]
[0094] R10-(R20)t (G)v (III)
[0095] Formula (III) wherein: • Ri represents a linear or branched alkyl and / or alkenyl radical comprising approximately 8 to 24 carbon atoms, an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical comprises 8 to 24 carbon atoms; • R2 represents an alkylene radical with approximately 2 to 4 carbon atoms, G represents a sugar motif with 5 to 6 carbon atoms; • t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10, preferably 0 to 4, preferably 0 to 4 and • v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15.
[0096] Preferred alkylpolyglycosides according to the present invention are compounds of formula (HD) in which Ri more particularly designates a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical comprising 8 to 18 carbon atoms, t designates a value from 0 to 3 and more particularly equal to 0, G may designate glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose. The degree of polymerization, i.e. the value of v in formula (III), may range from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4. The average degree of polymerization is more particularly between 1 and 2 and even more preferably from 1.1 to 1.5. The glycosidic linkages between the sugar units are of the 1-6 or 1-4 type and preferably 1-4.
[0097] Compounds of formula (III) are notably represented by the products sold by the company COGNIS under the names PLANTAREN® (600 CS / U, 1200 and 2000) or PLANT AC ARE® (818, 1200 and 2000). You can also use the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the names TRITON CG 110 (or ORAMIX CG 110) and TRITON CG 312 (or ORAMIX® NS 10), the products sold by the company BASF under the name LUTENSOL GD 70 or those sold by the company CHEM Y under the name AGIO LK.
[0098] One can also use, for example, Alkyl in C8-Ci6 polyglucoside 1,4 in aqueous solution at 53% marketed by COGNIS under the reference PLANTACARE® 818 UP.
[0099] As regards mono- or polyglycerolated surfactants, they preferably comprise on average from 1 to 30 glycerol groups, more particularly from 1 to 10 glycerol groups and in particular from 1.5 to 5.
[0100] Monoglycerol or polyglycerol surfactants are preferably selected from compounds with the following formula:
[0101] [Chem. 5]
[0102] RO-[CH2-CH(CH2OH)-O]m-H (IV);
[0103] RO-[CH2-CH(OH)CH2-O]mH (V);
[0104] RO-[CH(CH2OH)-CH2O]mH (VI);
[0105] Formulas (IV) to (VI) wherein: • R represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms and preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms; R may optionally include heteroatoms such as oxygen and nitrogen; in particular, R may optionally include one or more hydroxy and / or ether and / or amide groups; • m is a number inclusively between 1 and 30, preferably between 1 and 10, more particularly from 1.5 to 6.
[0106] R preferably designates alkyl and / or alkenyl radicals in the form Ci0-C20, possibly mono- or polyhydroxylated.
[0107] For example, polyglycerol hydroxylauryl ether (3.5 moles) marketed under the name Chimexane® NF from Chimex can be used.
[0108] The (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohol(s) preferably have the following formula:
[0109] [Chem 6]
[0110] Ra-[O-CH2-CH2]n-OH (VII)
[0111] Formula (VII) wherein: - Ra representing a linear or branched C8-C40 alkyl group, or a linear or branched C8-C30 alkenyl group (preferably C8-C30 alkyl) and - n represents an integer between 1 and 200 inclusively, preferably between 2 and 50, more particularly between 2 and 30 inclusively such that 20.
[0112] Fatty (poly)ethoxylated alcohols are more particularly fatty alcohols comprising 8 to 22 carbon atoms and oxyethylenated with 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide (1 to 30 EO). Among them, the following may be mentioned more particularly: 2 EO lauryl alcohol, 3 EO lauryl alcohol, 3 EO decyl alcohol, 5 EO decyl alcohol and 20 EO oleic alcohol.
[0113] Mixtures of these (poly)oxyethylenated fatty alcohols can also be used.
[0114] The quantity of surfactants is preferably inclusively between 0.5% and 25% by weight, in particular between 1% and 20% by weight, and more particularly between 2% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of the invention.
[0115] Among non-ionic surfactants, alkyl C6-C24 polyglucosides and more particularly alkyl C8-Ci6 polyglucosides are preferred. Water
[0116] The composition includes an aqueous phase, i.e. also includes water.
[0117] Water can constitute the continuous or dispersed phase.
[0118] The composition preferably comprises from 1% to 98% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 10% to 80% by weight, preferably from 15% to 65% by weight.
[0119] According to one embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises a quantity of fat greater than the quantity by weight of water.
[0120] According to another embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises a quantity by weight of water greater than the quantity of fat. Galenics
[0121] The compositions of the invention can be presented in different galenic forms, such as aqueous gels, direct (O / W) or reverse (W / H) emulsions, multiple emulsions (O / W / H or W / O / W) or dispersions, where the aqueous phase is the continuous or dispersed phase.
[0122] The compositions of the invention may be in the form of a dermatological or skincare composition, or even in the form of a sun protection composition. In the latter case, it is in a colorless form, possibly containing cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients different from compounds i) to iii). It can then be used as a base for skin or lip care.
[0123] The composition of the invention may also be in the form of a coloured skin makeup product, in particular a foundation, a blush, a cheek or eyeshadow, or lip makeup such as a lipstick or eyelash or eyebrow makeup such as a mascara.
[0124] The composition of the invention may also be in the form of a product colored or uncolored hair, in particular a conditioner, a care cream, or in the form of a deodorant.
[0125] The compositions according to the invention may be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste, or a foam. They may optionally be applied to the skin in aerosol form. They may also be in solid form, for example as a stick or a compact powder. Additional ingredients
[0126] The compositions of the invention may further comprise one or more additional ingredients selected from: a) gelling agents; b) film-forming or non-film-forming polymers; c) thickening or non-thickening polymers, preferably of the polysaccharide type such as pullulan; d) coloring materials such as pigments, natural or synthetic direct colorants; e) fillers; f) UV filters; g) surfactants; h) natural or synthetic cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients such as plant extracts; i) perfumes; j) and their salts or mixtures; preferably d) one or more pigments; more preferably the pigment(s) of the invention are selected from carbon black, titanium dioxide and iron oxides, in particular black, and micas coated with iron oxide, even more preferably iron oxides and titanium dioxide.
[0127] The invention is now illustrated by the following example.
[0128] Unless otherwise stated, quantities are given as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of composition (% w / w). EXAMPLE: MASCARA
[0129] DESCRIPTION OF THE ANTIMI- EFFICACY TEST PROTOCOL CROBIAN
[0130] The effectiveness of the mixture i) and ii) and possibly iii) according to the invention is evaluated by means of the challenge test which makes it possible to determine the level of antimicrobial protection of a composition.
[0131] It consists of artificially contaminating the product to be tested with various microorganisms (bacteria, yeasts and molds) and monitoring the number of viable germs over time.
[0132] A product that is satisfactorily protected must allow for decontamination of introduced microorganisms, decontamination that is more or less rapid depending on the microbial strains, the type of product and the packaging material.
[0133] The product is divided into as many pillboxes as there are microorganisms to be tested. A calibrated suspension of microorganisms is introduced into each of these pillboxes.
[0134] The effectiveness of the formula protection is tested on a limited microbial spectrum but chosen from among the species likely to contaminate the product, both during manufacturing and during its use. In this case, it includes a bacterium (Ente-rococcus faecalis), a yeast (Candida albicans) and a mold (Aspergillus bra-siliensis).
[0135] The sample taken to count the microorganisms remaining in the product takes place after 7 days of contact between the product and the germ.
[0136] The dilutions carried out to perform the counts are inoculated onto Petri dishes.
[0137] The kinetics (growth or decay) for a given seed at a given time is then expressed as a logarithmic reduction.
[0138] The acceptability criteria applied are those defined in Annex B (Evaluation criteria for the antimicrobial protection efficacy test) of ISO11930:2019 (Cosmetics - Microbiology - Evaluation of the antimicrobial protection of a cosmetic product), reproduced below. Evaluation criteria for the ISO11930:2019 standard
[0139] [Tables 1] labisaM — Cf iterations Required Ig reduction rate2 MkrO'Crgânîémôs Bacteria C. dibicsns A. Ternie de préreverrrant "7 t<4 : 25 T? Tl--: T28 Tld T2S Criteria A St PA» and PA Ot EA Criteria S Not realized >3 and PA Not realized at PA and PA < t < 5 3s CvHtMt precede.. c < 1 > t > ;
[0140] If the formulation meets criteria A, the microbiological risk is considered acceptable (the cosmetic product is protected against microbial proliferation that could present a potential risk to the user), and the cosmetic product meets the requirements of ISO 11930:2019 without further justification.
[0141] For the evaluation of effectiveness, only criteria A “T7” will be taken into consideration.
[0142] For the mold Aspergillus brasiliensis, the result of the challenge test obtained will be judged compliant if the criterion required after 28 days of product / germ contact is reached from 7 days of contact. EVALUATION OF THE PROTECTION LEVEL OF A MASCARA
[0143] Compounds i), ü) and üi) are formulated in a mascara, a typical example of which has the following composition:
[0144] Composition 1 is according to the invention, while compositions 2 to 5 are comparative.
[0145] These compositions are prepared according to a classic process for a person skilled in the art.
[0146] [Tables2] Ingredients (% w / w) Composition Invention Composition 2 Comparative Composition 3 Comparativ e Compositio n4 Comparativ e Compositio n 5 Comparativ e Vanillin i) 0.25 0.25 0 0 0 Niacinamide ii) 3 0 3 0 0 Pentylene glycol iii) 2 0 0 2 0 1,3-Propaned iol iii) 5 0 5 5 5 Film former 4 4 4 4 4 Neutralizer 1.22 1.22 1.22 1.22 1.22 Fats iv) 12.5 12.5 12.5 12.5 12.5 Co-surfactant (iv) 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 Wax iv) 6 6 6 6 6 Surfactant (v) 6 6 6 6 6 Mineral pigment 8 8 8 8 8 Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100
[0147] The effectiveness of each composition 1 to 5 is evaluated using the challenge test which makes it possible to determine the level of antimicrobial protection of a composition.
[0148] The results are detailed in the tables below. ACTION ON BACTERIA
[0149] The decay kinetics, expressed as logarithmic reductions, on the Enterococcus faecalis microbial strains after 7 days of contact between germs and product are given in the table below:
[0150] [Tables3] Compositions Logarithmic reductions after 7 days of contact Composition 1 (invention) <4 Composition 2 (comparative) 0.21 Composition 3 (comparative) 0.53 Composition 4 (comparative) 0 Composition 5 (comparative) 0 ACTION AGAINST MOLD
[0151] The results on the microbial strain Aspergillus brasiliensis after 7 days of germ / product contact are given in the table below:
[0152] [Tables5] Compositions Logarithmic reductions after 7 days of contact Composition 1 (invention) <4 Composition 2 (comparative) 1.75 Composition 3 (comparative) 0.18 Composition 4 (comparative) 0 Composition 5 (comparative) 0
[0153] The example shows that the association according to the invention allows effective antimicrobial protection.
[0154] It appears from the results of the tables above that the combination of vanillin, nia-cinamide, pentylene glycol and propanediol according to the invention exhibits excellent antimicrobial activity and therefore provides a marked improvement in the level of microbiological protection after 7 days of contact, in particular against Enterococcus faecalis and Aspergillus brasiliensis.
[0155] For this same mixture, the level of decontamination observed on the Enterococcus faecalis bacterium is compliant with criterion A T7 described in ISO 11930:2019.
[0156] For the mold Aspergillus brasiliensis the result is considered compliant because the required decontamination is achieved within 7 days of contact.
Claims
Demands
1. Composition, especially cosmetic, comprising water and: i) at least one (Ci-C6)(alkyl)vanillin, one of its organic or mineral base salts, or one of its solvates such as hydrates; ii) at least one pyridine substituted at position 3 by an amide group RR'NC(O)- or one of its solvates such as hydrates, with R and R', identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom, a (Ci-C6)alkyl, (C2-C6)alkenyl or (hetero)aryl(Ci-C4)alkyl group; and iii) at least one additional antimicrobial, which is 1,3-propanediol, optionally in mixture with at least one antimicrobial selected from C2-C6 alkanols and C2-Ci0 polyols.
2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein i) the (Ci-C6)(alkyl)vanillin is of the following formula (I): [Chem.l] ï ü ôh (I) Formula (I) in which R” represents a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, linear or branched, preferably a (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl, more preferably methyl.
3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, comprising an amount of (Ci-C6)(alkyl)vanillin, its organic or mineral base salts or its solvates such as hydrates, of between 0.03% and 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.05% and 1% by weight, and even more preferably between 0.1% and 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein ii) the pyridine substituted at position 3 by an amide group RR'NC(O)- is niacinamide, of formula (II): [Chem. 2] 0 A 'NH2 (II) or one of its solvates such as hydrates.
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising an amount of pyridine substituted at position 3 by an amide group RR'NC(O)- or one of its solvates such as hydrates, of between 0.5% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the C2-C6 alkanol is selected from C2-C6 aliphatic monoalcohols, preferably selected from ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol and mixtures thereof, preferably ethanol.
7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the C2 to C10 polyol is selected from glycerol, diglycerol, propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, pentylene glycol and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from pentylene glycol, 1,2-propanediol, heptane diols, caprylyl glycol and mixtures thereof.
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising (iv) at least one fat, preferably liquid at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure, particularly hydrocarbon, which is in particular selected from hydrocarbons and in C6-C16 or with more than 16 carbon atoms up to 60 carbon atoms, preferably between C6 and C16, and in particular selected from alkanes, oils of animal origin, oils of vegetable origin, glycerides or fluorinated oils of synthetic origin, fatty alcohols, esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, silicones; more preferably the fat (iv) is selected from linear or branched alkanes, in C8-C1U, even more preferably in C9-C1, or preferably in C9-C1;more particularly the fatty substance iv) is chosen from hydrocarbon oils, linear or branched, which are volatile, in particular chosen from undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, and mixtures thereof; of different oils, preferably volatile, including isododecane in the mixture, or a mixture of undecane and tridecane.
9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, comprising (iv) at least one pasty fat, preferably selected from fatty alcohols, fatty acid and fatty alcohol esters, particularly having one or two hydrocarbon group(s), linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising 14 to 40 carbon atoms, optionally substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl group(s) OH (in particular from 1 to 4 hydroxyl group(s)); even more preferably selected from behenyl behenate, cetearyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate and mixtures thereof.
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more cationic, anionic, non-ionic, or zwitterionic surfactants, preferably non-ionic or anionic, more preferably selected from carboxylic fatty acids, in particular comprising at least one linear or branched C6-C24 aliphatic chain, preferably saturated, linear, in particular Cu-C20 such as stearic acid.
11. Composition according to claim 8 or 9, comprising a quantity by weight of water greater than the quantity of fat.
12. Compositions according to any one of the preceding claims further comprising one or more additional ingredients selected from: a) gelling agents; b) film-forming or non-film-forming polymers; c) thickening or non-thickening polymers, preferably of the polysaccharide type such as pullulan; d) coloring materials such as pigments, natural or synthetic direct colorants; e) fillers; f) UV filters; g) surfactants; h) natural or synthetic cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients such as plant extracts; j) perfumes; k) and their salts or mixtures; preferably d) one or more pigments; more preferably the pigment(s) are selected from carbon black, titanium dioxide and iron oxides, in particular black, and micas coated with iron oxide, even more preferably iron oxides and titanium dioxide.
13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, having a pH between 3 and 10, preferably between 3 and 8, preferably between 4 and 6, and preferably between 4 and 5.
5.
14. A method for preserving a composition Cl comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition Cl, which includes the incorporation of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13 into said composition Cl.
15. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13 for its use as an antimicrobial agent, in particular against bacterial strains (e.g. Enterococcus faecalis), yeasts (e.g. Candida albicans) and / or molds (e.g. Aspergillus bra-siliensis).