Composition comprising a wax, a (bi)carbonate, a fatty acid, a fat and a colorant.

A composition of wax, (bi)carbonate, fatty acid, and fatty substance enhances hair coloring by providing intense, homogeneous color with improved persistence and sensory benefits, addressing environmental concerns.

FR3150439A1Pending Publication Date: 2025-01-03LOREAL SA
View PDF 18 Cites 0 Cited by

Patent Information

Application Number
FR2023006942
Authority / Receiving Office
FR · FR
Patent Type
Applications
Current Assignee / Owner
Filing Date
2023-06-30
Publication Date
2025-01-03

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing hair coloring compositions using oxidation dyes often result in unsatisfactory dyeing power, limited color range, high selectivity, and poor persistence against external agents, while lacking environmental sustainability and sensory benefits.

Method used

A composition comprising wax, (bi)carbonate, fatty acid, and fatty substance, along with a dye, which provides intense, homogeneous coloration with improved persistence and sensory qualities, using environmentally friendly ingredients.

Benefits of technology

The composition achieves powerful, intense, and non-selective coloration with good persistence and sensory benefits, maintaining fiber integrity and reducing environmental impact.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.
Patent Text Reader

Abstract

A composition comprising a wax, a (bi)carbonate, a fatty acid, a fat, and a colorant. The invention relates to a composition comprising at least one wax, at least one (bi)carbonate, at least one fatty acid, at least one fat, and at least one colorant.
Need to check novelty before this filing date? Find Prior Art

Description

Title of the invention: Composition comprising a wax, a (bi)carbonate, a fatty acid, a fat and a colorant.

[0001] The invention relates to a composition comprising at least one wax, at least one (bi)carbonate, at least one fatty acid, at least one fat and at least one colorant.

[0002] The invention also relates to a process for coloring keratin fibers, in particular hair, using this composition.

[0003] The invention finally relates to the use of such a composition for coloring keratin fibers, and in particular hair.

[0004] For a long time, many people have been looking to change the color of their hair, and in particular to hide their gray hair.

[0005] In the field of hair keratin fiber coloring, particularly human hair, it is already known to color hair keratin fibers by different techniques from direct dyes or pigments for non-permanent colorings or from dye precursors for permanent colorings.

[0006] There are essentially three types of hair coloring process:

[0007] a) so-called permanent coloring which has the function of bringing about a significant change in the natural color and which uses oxidation dyes which penetrate the hair fiber and form the dye by a process of oxidative condensation;

[0008] b) non-permanent, semi-permanent or direct coloring, which does not implement the oxidative condensation process and resists 4 or 5 shampoos; consists of dyeing the keratin fibers with dyeing compositions containing direct dyes;

[0009] c) Temporary hair coloring that results in a change to the natural hair color that lasts from one shampoo to the next and serves to enhance or correct a previously achieved shade. It can also be considered a "makeup" process.

[0010] It is thus known to dye keratin fibers, particularly human keratin fibers such as hair, to obtain so-called permanent colors with dye compositions containing oxidation dye precursors, notably oxidation bases such as ortho- or para-phenylenediamines, ortho- or para-aminophenols, or heterocyclic compounds such as pyrazoles, pyrazolinones, or pyrazolopyridines. These oxidation bases are colorless or weakly colored compounds which, when combined with oxidizing agents, can give rise to colored compounds through an oxidative condensation process.

[0011] It is also possible to vary the shades obtained with these oxidation bases by combining them with color couplers or modifiers. The variety of molecules involved in the oxidation bases and couplers allows for a rich palette of colors.

[0012] However, the implementation of these dye compositions may present a number of disadvantages.

[0013] Indeed, after application to keratin fibers, the dyeing power obtained may not be entirely satisfactory, or even weak, and lead to a limited range of colors.

[0014] The colorings may also not be sufficiently tenacious against external agents such as light, shampoos, perspiration and may also be too selective, that is to say that the difference in coloring is too great along the same keratin fiber which is differently sensitized between its tip and its root.

[0015] Consumers are also looking for more environmentally friendly coloring products, in particular those based on ingredients of natural origin, and which have good qualities of use, are easy to use and lead to good dyeing properties.

[0016] The formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, that is to say whose design and development take into account environmental issues, is becoming a major concern in order to help meet global challenges.

[0017] It is therefore essential to propose more sustainable compositions that make it possible to respond to these environmental challenges.

[0018] Thus, there is a real need to make available a coloring composition for keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, which is more environmentally friendly and which is capable of leading to a good rise, intensity and chromaticity of the color, while having low selectivity and good tenacity, in particular good persistence to shampoos, and which is capable of leading to good dyeing performance, even after a period of storage, while having good qualities of use and maintaining good sensory performance in particular in terms of shine, softness, suppleness, smoothness, detangling of keratin fibers such as hair.

[0019] These and other objectives are achieved by the present invention, which therefore relates to a composition comprising: 1) at least one wax; 2) at least one (bi)carbonate; 3) at least one fatty acid; 4) at least one additional fat; 5) at least one colorant.

[0020] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is a composition for coloring keratin fibers, in particular hair.

[0021] The composition according to the invention makes it possible in particular to produce chromatic, powerful, intense and not very selective colours, that is to say colours which are homogeneous along the fibre.

[0022] The composition according to the invention exhibits improved shampoo retention, as well as good stability over time, in particular a low evolution, or even no evolution of its viscosity during storage.

[0023] The composition according to the invention has good performance qualities, particularly in terms of texture, ease of application, adhesion to hair, and lengthening.

[0024] The composition according to the invention also makes it possible to achieve good cosmeticity, in particular in terms of shine, softness, suppleness, a more natural feel, while preserving the integrity of the fiber.

[0025] The composition according to the invention also makes it possible to provide cosmetic compositions for keratin fibers that do not have a strong ammonia odor.

[0026] The invention also relates to a method of coloring hair from the composition of the invention.

[0027] The invention also relates to a kit comprising in a first compartment a composition as defined above and in a second compartment an oxidizing composition comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent.

[0028] By "chemical oxidizing agent" according to the invention, we mean an oxidizing agent other than oxygen from the air.

[0029] Other objects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will become even clearer upon reading the description and examples that follow.

[0030] In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the bounds of a range of values ​​are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between" and "ranging from ... to ...".

[0031] Furthermore, the expression "at least one" used in this description is equivalent to the expression "one or more". A wax

[0032] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one wax.

[0033] A wax, as defined in the present invention, is a lipophilic compound, solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid / liquid phase change, a melting point above approximately 40°C and up to 200°C, and exhibiting an anisotropic crystalline structure in the solid state. Generally, the size of the wax crystals is such that they diffract and / or scatter light, giving the composition a cloudy appearance. more or less opaque. By bringing the wax to its melting point, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but by bringing the temperature of the mixture back to room temperature, we obtain a recrystallization of the wax, detectable microscopically and macroscopically (opalescence).

[0034] In particular, the waxes suitable for the invention can be chosen from waxes of animal, vegetable, mineral origin, non-siliconized synthetic waxes and their mixtures.

[0035] Examples include hydrocarbon waxes, such as beeswax, particularly of biological origin, lanolin wax, and insect waxes from China; rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, Ouricury wax, alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax; Montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, as well as their esters.

[0036] We can also mention microcrystalline waxes in C20 to C60, such as Microwax HW.

[0037] We can also mention PM 500 polyethylene wax marketed under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene.

[0038] We can also mention waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched fatty chains, in C8 to C32. Among these, we can mention in particular isomerized jojoba oil, such as trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, in particular that manufactured or marketed by the company Desert Whale under the trade reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, and di-(trimethyloi-1,1,1 propane tetrastearate), in particular that sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company HETERENE.

[0039] Waxes obtained by hydrogenation of esterified castor oil with cetyl alcohol can also be used, such as those sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company SOPHIM.

[0040] As a wax, a C20 to C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising 20 to 40 carbon atoms) can also be used, alone or in a mixture. Such a wax is notably sold under the names "Kester Wax K 82 P®", "Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®" and "Kester Wax K 80 P®" by the company KOSTER KEUNEN.

[0041] It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention; in particular, carnauba microwaxes, such as that com marketed under the name MicroCare 350® by MICRO POWDERS, synthetic wax microwaxes, such as that marketed under the name MicroEase 114S® by MICRO POWDERS, microwaxes made from a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as those marketed under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by MICRO POWDERS, microwaxes made from a mixture of carnauba wax and synthetic wax, such as that marketed under the name Micro Care 325® by MICRO POWDERS, polyethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by MICRO POWDERS, and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company MICRO POWDERS.

[0042] Waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes such as paraffin wax, petroleum jelly, lignite or ozokerite; vegetable waxes such as cocoa butter or waxes from cork or sugar cane fibers, olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, Ouricoury wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto grass wax, or absolute flower waxes such as blackcurrant flower essential wax sold by the BERTIN company (France); waxes of animal origin such as beeswax or modified beeswax (cerabellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and their mixtures, preferably vegetable waxes such as carnauba wax and candelilla wax, and more preferably candelilla wax (INCI name euphorbia cerifera wax).

[0043] The wax(s) may be present in a total content ranging from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.008 to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 0.5% by weight, better from 0.02 to 0.3%, better still from 0.05 to 0.2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0044] According to a preferred embodiment, the wax is a vegetable wax such as Candelilla wax, which may be present in a content ranging from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.008 to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 0.5% by weight, better from 0.02 to 0.3%, better still from 0.05 to 0.2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. (Bicarbonate

[0045] The composition according to the invention comprises one (or more) (bi)carbonates.

[0046] By "(bi)carbonate" means carbonate, carbonate generating system, bicarbonate, bicarbonate generating system and their mixtures.

[0047] By "carbonate generating system" is meant a system which generates carbonate in situ, such as carbon dioxide in water or per- carbonate in water.

[0048] By "bicarbonate generating system" is meant a system which generates bicarbonate in situ such as carbon dioxide in water or by buffering a carbonate with a mineral or organic acid.

[0049] The (bi)carbonate(s) is / are preferably chosen from:

[0050] - the carbonate(s), preferably chosen from:

[0051] a) alkali metal carbonates (Met2+, CO32), alkaline earth metal carbonates (Met'2+, CO32), ammonium carbonate (NH4+) or phosphonium carbonate (R”4P+)2,CO32 with Met' representing an alkaline earth metal and Met representing an alkali metal, and R”, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a (Ci-C6)alkyl group possibly substituted such as hydroxyethyl; and their mixtures;

[0052] - the bicarbonate(s), preferably chosen:

[0053] b) compounds with the following formulas: • R'+, HCO3 with R' representing a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal, a an ammonium group NH4+ or a phosphonium group R”4P+- where R”, identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom, a (Ci-C6)alkyl group possibly substituted such as hydroxyethyl- and when R' represents a hydrogen atom the hydrogen carbonate is then called dihydrogenocarbonate (CO2, H2O); and • Met'2+ (HCO3 )2 with Met' representing an alkaline earth metal;

[0054] and their mixtures.

[0055] More particularly, the (bi)carbonate(s) is / are chosen from alkali metal (bi)carbonates, alkaline earth metal (bi)carbonates, ammonium (bi)carbonates; preferably alkali metal (bi)carbonates, ammonium (bi)carbonates and their mixtures, more preferably alkali metal bicarbonates, ammonium bicarbonate and their mixtures.

[0056] By way of example, they are chosen from among Na, K, Mg, Ca (bi)carbonates, ammonium (bi)carbonates and mixtures thereof. Preferably the (bi)carbonate(s) is / are chosen from Na (bi)carbonate, K (bi)carbonate, ammonium (bi)carbonates and mixtures thereof, preferably Na bicarbonate, K bicarbonate, ammonium bicarbonate and mixtures thereof, and even better ammonium bicarbonate.

[0057] According to one embodiment, the (bi)carbonate(s) is or are chosen from bicarbonates, bicarbonate generating systems and their mixtures, preferably from bicarbonates.

[0058] According to a preferred embodiment, the (bi)carbonate(s) is ammonium bicarbonate.

[0059] These bicarbonates can come from natural water, for example spring water from the Vichy basin, La Roche Posay, Badoit water which are known for their content of sodium bicarbonate or baking soda [144-55-8] = NaHCO3, and calcium bicarbonate = Ca(HCO3)2.

[0060] The (bi)carbonate(s) may be present in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.4% to 5% by weight, better from 0.5% to 4% by weight, better still from 1% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0061] According to a preferred embodiment, (bi)carbonate is ammonium bicarbonate which may be present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.4% to 5% by weight, better from 0.5% to 4% by weight, better still from 1% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Fatty acid

[0062] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty acids.

[0063] Here we mean a fatty acid other than the one or those which would be likely to be present in the useful wax according to the invention.

[0064] By "fatty acids" is meant a long-chain carboxylic acid, in particular an alkyl chain, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0065] Preferably, the fatty acids comprise at least one carboxylic acid group and an alkyl chain, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, in particular saturated, comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0066] More preferably, the fatty acids according to the invention are chosen from compounds of RC(O)OH structure in which R represents an alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, in particular saturated, comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, better from 14 to 20 carbon atoms.

[0067] For the purposes of the present invention, the fatty acids present in the composition are neither oxyalkylated nor glycerolated.

[0068] Fatty acids can be chosen from solid fatty acids, liquid fatty acids and mixtures thereof.

[0069] For the purposes of this invention, "solid fatty acid" means a fatty acid having a melting point above 25°C, preferably above or equal to 28°C, more preferably above or equal to 30°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa).

[0070] The solid fatty acids used in the present invention are in particular selected from myristic acid, cetyl acid, stearylic acid, palmitic acid, arachidic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid, and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from palmitic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, stearic acid, and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from palmitic acid, myristic acid, stearic acid and mixtures thereof.

[0071] For the purposes of this invention, "liquid fatty acid" means a fatty acid having a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C, preferably less than or equal to 20°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa).

[0072] The liquid fatty acid(s) according to the invention can be chosen from oleic acid, linoleic acid, arachidonic acid and mixtures thereof, preferably oleic acid.

[0073] Preferably, the fatty acid(s) present in the composition according to the invention are chosen from fatty acids comprising at least one carboxylic acid group and an alkyl chain, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0074] According to a preferred embodiment, the fatty acid(s) present in the composition according to the invention are chosen from solid fatty acids, preferably chosen from palmitic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, stearic acid, and mixtures thereof, preferably palmitic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, stearic acid and mixtures thereof.

[0075] Preferably, the fatty acid(s) 3) are chosen from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0076] The fatty acid(s), preferably solid, are generally present in a total content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5%, preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight, better from 0.2 to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional fats

[0077] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more additional fatty substances. For the purposes of this invention, it is understood that this fatty substance is different from the fatty acids and waxes defined above.

[0078] By "fats and oils," we mean an organic compound insoluble in water at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa) (solubility less than 5% by weight, and preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight). They have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms and / or a chain of at least two siloxane groups. Furthermore, fats and oils are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, such as chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), petroleum jelly or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

[0079] The fats 4) usable in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylated nor (poly)glycerolated.

[0080] Preferably the useful fatty substances according to the invention are non-siliconized.

[0081] The term "non-siliconized fat" means a fat that does not contain Si-O bonds and the term "siliconized fat" means a fat that contains at least one Si-O bond.

[0082] The useful fats according to the invention can be liquid fats (or oils) and / or solid fats. Liquid fats are defined as fats having a melting point less than or equal to 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa), and solid fats are defined as fats having a melting point greater than 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa).

[0083] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example, the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by TA Instruments. In the present application, all melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa).

[0084] More particularly, the liquid fat(s) may be chosen from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms, non-siliconized oils of animal origin, triglyceride-type oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, fluorinated oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides and mixtures thereof.

[0085] It is recalled that alcohols and fatty esters more particularly have at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 40, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, possibly substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

[0086] By way of example, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms can be chosen from among liquid hydrocarbons in the range of C6 to C16; these can be linear, branched, possibly cyclic, and preferably saturated. Examples include hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane and isodecane, and mixtures thereof.

[0087] Liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms may also be selected from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin, and are selected from preference among paraffin or petroleum jelly oils (or mineral oil), poly-lydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, and their mixtures.

[0088] Liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms can also be chosen from mixtures of alkanes having from 8 to 28 carbon atoms, more particularly from 15 to 28 carbon atoms, we can cite mixtures whose INCI names are for example the following: C15-19 Alkane, C18-C21 Alkane, C21-C28 Alkane, such as for example the products Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60, Gemseal 120 marketed by Total, Emogreen L19 marketed by SEPPIC, Emogreen L15 marketed by SEPPIC, more particularly Emogreen L19 marketed by SEPPIC.

[0089] Perhydrosqualene can be cited as an example of hydrocarbon oils of animal origin.

[0090] Triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from among liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acid or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grapeseed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor, avocado oils, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by Stea-rineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0091] Liquid fatty alcohols suitable for implementing the invention are particularly chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched, having from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylated nor glycerolated. Examples include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, linolenic alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, undecylenic alcohol, or linoleic alcohol, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, oleic alcohol will be used.

[0092] With regard to liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, other than the triglycerides mentioned above, we may mention in particular the esters of saturated or unsaturated mono- or poly-aliphatic acids, linear in Cl to C26 or branched in C3 to C26 and of saturated or unsaturated mono- or poly-aliphatic alcohols, linear in Cl to C26 or branched in C3 to C26, the total number of carbons of the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.

[0093] Preferably, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol or acid is branched.

[0094] Among the monoesters, we can mention dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, such as ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates such as 2-octyldodecyl isopropyl myristate; isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.

[0095] Esters of di- or tricarboxylic acids in C4 to C22 and of alcohols in Cl to C22 and esters of mono-, di-, or tricarboxylic acids and di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols in C2 to C26 can also be used.

[0096] Examples include: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; din-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisanonate; polyethylene glycol distearates, and mixtures thereof.

[0097] The composition may also include, as a fatty acid ester, esters and diesters of sugars of fatty acids in the C6 to C30 range, preferably in the C12 to C22 range. It should be noted that the term "sugar" refers to oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds possessing several alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and comprising at least four carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides other than the anionic polysaccharides described above.

[0098] Suitable sugars may be cited for example sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives in particular alkylated, such as methylated derivatives like methylglucose.

[0099] Sugar and fatty acid esters may be selected in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of sugar esters described above and fatty acids in the range of C6 to C30, preferably C12 to C22, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three double bonds. carbon-carbon, conjugated or not.

[0100] Esters can also be selected from mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters, polyesters and their mixtures.

[0101] These esters may be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonate, or mixtures thereof, such as mixed oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate, palmito-stearate esters.

[0102] More particularly, mono- and di- esters are used, in particular mono- or di- oleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose, and mixtures thereof.

[0103] An example is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0104] Preferably, a liquid ester of monoacid and monoalcohol will be used.

[0105] According to one embodiment, the additional fats are chosen from the fats liquid fats, preferably from hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms, vegetable oils, liquid fatty alcohols and liquid fatty esters and mixtures thereof, more preferably from hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms, better from paraffin or petrolatum (or mineral oil) oils, mixtures of alkanes having from 8 to 28 carbon atoms, more particularly from 15 to 28 carbon atoms, better mixtures of INCI designation C15-19 Alkane.

[0106] Solid fats preferably have a viscosity greater than 2 Pa.s, measured at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s-1.

[0107] The solid fat(s) are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, ceramides and mixtures thereof.

[0108] By "fatty alcohol" is meant a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylated nor glycerolated.

[0109] The solid fatty alcohols that may be used may be selected from, alone or in mixture: myristic or myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); montanylic alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).

[0110] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidic alcohol and mixtures thereof, such as cetostearyl or cetearyl alcohol. In particular The preferred solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.

[0111] The solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters that may be used are preferably selected from esters derived from C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acids and / or C9-C26 fatty alcohols.

[0112] Examples include octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyle stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyle myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, din-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, Dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, myristyle palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

[0113] Solid fats are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols and their mixtures, in particular from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixtures such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.

[0114] According to a preferred embodiment, the additional fatty substance(s) is / are chosen from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms, vegetable oils, fatty alcohols, liquid fatty esters, and mixtures thereof, more preferably from solid fatty alcohols, mixtures of alkanes having from 8 to 28 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof, preferably chosen from Cl5-19 Alkane (INCI name), cetearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0115] The total content of the additional fat(s) varies, preferably, from 5 to 35% by weight, more preferably from 7 to 30% by weight, and better from 8 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0116] In a particular embodiment, when the composition according to the invention includes one or more additional solid fats, the total content of the additional solid fat(s) varies preferably from 5 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 6 to 25% by weight, and better from 7 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0117] In another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms, the total content of the hydrocarbon(s) comprising more than 6 carbon atoms varies, preferably, from 0.01 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, and better still from 0.1 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.5 to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Dye

[0118] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more colorants selected from oxidation dyes, direct dyes and their mixtures.

[0119] Preferably, the composition comprises one (or more) oxidation dye(s).

[0120] Oxidation dyes are generally chosen from one or more oxidation bases, possibly associated with one or more couplers.

[0121] Oxidation base

[0122] Oxidation bases may be present in the form of salts, solvates and / or solvates of salts.

[0123] The addition salts of the oxidation bases present in the composition according to the invention are in particular selected from addition salts with an acid such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, methanesulfonates, phosphates and acetates, and addition salts with a base such as sodium, potassium, ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.

[0124] Furthermore, the solvates of the oxidation bases represent more particularly the hydrates of said oxidation bases and / or the association of said oxidation bases with a linear or branched C1 to C4 alcohol such as methanol, ethanol, isopropanol, n-propanol. Preferably, the solvates are hydrates.

[0125] By way of example, the oxidation bases are chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols and heterocyclic bases and corresponding addition salts.

[0126] Among the para-phenylenediamines that may be mentioned are, for example, para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dipropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-N,N-diethyl 1-3-methylaniline, N,N-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-N,N-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N,N-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-chloroaniline, 2-β-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-fluoro-para-phenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-(β-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-3-methyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-ethyl-N-(β-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(β,g-dihydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, the N- , (4'-aminophenyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-b-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2-b-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, N-(b-methoxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-aminophenylpyrrolidine, 2-thienyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-b-hydroxyethylamino-5-aminotoluene and 3-hydroxy-l-(4'-aminophenyl)pyrrolidine and the corresponding addition salts with an acid.

[0127] Among the aforementioned para-phenylenediamines, para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-b-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-b-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis(b-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine and 2-b-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine and the corresponding addition salts with an acid are preferred.

[0128] Among the bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines that can be mentioned, we find for example N,N'-bis(b-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)-1,3-diaminopropanol, N,N'-bis(b-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)ethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(b-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-methylaminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(ethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-amino-3'-methylphenyl)ethylenediamine and 1,8-bis(2,5-diaminophenoxy)-3,6-dioxaoctane and the corresponding addition salts.

[0129] Among the para-aminophenols that are mentioned, for example, are para-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 4-amino-3-chlorophenol, 4-amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-(b-hydroxyethylaminomethyl)phenol and 4-amino-2-fluorophenol and the corresponding addition salts with an acid.

[0130] Among the ortho-aminophenols that can be mentioned, we find for example 2-aminophenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol and 5-acetamido-2-aminophenol and the corresponding addition salts.

[0131] Among the heterocyclic bases that can be mentioned, we find for example the derivatives of pyridine, pyrimidine and pyrazole.

[0132] Among the pyridine derivatives that can be mentioned are the compounds described, for example, in patents GB 1 026 978 and GB 1 153 196, for example 2,5-diaminopyridine, 2-(4-methoxyphenyl)amino-3-aminopyridine and the 3,4-diaminopyridine and the corresponding addition salts.

[0133] Other pyridine oxidation bases that are useful in the present invention are the 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine oxidation bases or the corresponding addition salts described, for example, in French patent application FR 2 801 308. Examples that may be mentioned include pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-acetylaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-2-carboxylic acid, 2-methoxypyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, (3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)methanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)ethanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)ethanol, (3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-2-yl)methanol, 3,6-diaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine, 3,4-diaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine, pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-3,7-diamine, 7-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-3,5-diamine, 5-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine,2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)-amino]ethanol, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-5-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-4-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-6-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-7-ol, 2-β-hydroxyethoxy-3-amino-pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine; 2-(4-dimethylpiperazinium-l-yl)-3-amino-pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine; and the corresponding addition salts.

[0134] More particularly, the oxidation bases that are useful in the present invention are chosen from among the 3-aminopyrazolo-[1,5-a]-pyridines and preferably substituted at carbon atom 2 by:

[0135] a) a (di)(Ci-C6)(alkyl)amino group, said alkyl group being able to be substituted by at least one hydroxy, amino, imidazolium group;

[0136] b) a heterocycloalkyl group containing 5 to 7 members and 1 to 3 heteroatoms, optionally cationic, optionally substituted by one or more (Ci-C6)alkyl groups, such as a di(Ci-C4)alkylpiperazinium group; or

[0137] c) a (Ci-C6)alkoxy group optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups such as a β-hydroxyalkoxy group and the corresponding addition salts.

[0138] Among the pyrimidine derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds described, for example, in patents DE 2359399; JP 88-169571; JP 05-63124; EP 0770375 or patent application WO 96 / 15765, such as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, the 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and their addition salts and their tautomeric forms, when a tautomeric equilibrium exists.

[0139] Among the pyrazole derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds described in patents DE 3843892, DE 4133957 and patent applications WO 94 / 08969, WO 94 / 08970, FRA-2 733 749 and DE 195 43 988, such as 4,5-diamino-l-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-(b-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-(4'-chlorobenzyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l,3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-l-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, the 4-amino-1,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazinopyrazole, l-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-tert-butyl-l-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-tert-butyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-(b-hydroxyethyl)-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-ethyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-ethyl-3-(4'-methoxyphenyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-ethyl-3-hydroxymethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-l-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-l-isopropylpyrazole, 4,5-Diamino-3-methyl-1-isopropylpyrazole, 4-amino-5-(2'-aminoethyl)amino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 1-methyl-3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-1-methyl-4-methylaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-4-(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-1-methylpyrazole and the corresponding addition salts. 4,5-diamino-1-(β-methoxyethyl)pyrazole may also be used.

[0140] A 4,5-diaminopyrazole will preferably be used and even more preferably 4,5-diamino-l-(b-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and / or a corresponding salt.

[0141] Pyrazole derivatives that may also be mentioned include diamino-N,N-dihydropyrazolopyrazolones and in particular those described in patent application FR-A-2 886 136, such as the following compounds and their corresponding addition salts: 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1H,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-ethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1H,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-isopropylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1H,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-(pyrrolidin-l-yl)-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-dimethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-di-(2-hydroxyethyl)-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2-amino-3-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-amino-3-dimethylamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2,3-diamino-5,6,7,8-tetrahydro-lH,6H-pyridazino[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 4-amino-1,2-diethyl-5-(pyrrolidin-1 -yl)-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4-amino-5-(3-dimethylaminopyrrolidin-1 -yl)-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2,3-diamino-6-hydroxy-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one.

[0142] Preferably, 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one and / or a corresponding salt will be used.

[0143] Preferably, 4,5-diamino-l-(b-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and / or 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one and / or a corresponding salt will be used as heterocyclic bases.

[0144] Preferably, the oxidation base(s) are chosen from among para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, and the corresponding addition salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts and mixtures thereof; more preferably from 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-γ-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, and their addition salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts and mixtures thereof.

[0145] When the composition comprises at least one oxidation base, preferably the oxidation base(s) are present in a total content ranging from 0.001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better from 0.05 to 5%, even better from 0.1 to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

[0146] Oxidation coupler

[0147] The composition according to the invention may include one or more couplers advantageously chosen from those traditionally used in the coloring of keratin fibers.

[0148] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more couplers.

[0149] Among these couplers, we can in particular mention meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene-based coupling agents and heterocyclic coupling agents as well as the corresponding addition salts.

[0150] Examples include 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, 3,4-hydroxyethylmethylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4-chloro-1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 2,4-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-amino-4-(β-hydroxyethylamino)-1-methoxybenzene, 1,3-diaminobenzene, 1,3-bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propane, 3-ureidoaniline, 3-ureido-1-dimethylaminobenzene, sesamol, 1B-hydroxyethylamino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, 1-naphtol, 2-methyl-1-naphtol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxy-N-methylindole, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 1N-(B-hydroxyethyl)amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, 2,6-bis(B-hydroxyethylamino)toluene, 6-hydroxyindoline, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 1H-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, the 2,6-dimethylpyrazolo[l,5-b]-l,2,4-triazole, 2,6-dimethyl[3,2-c]-l,2,4-triazole and 6-methylpyrazolo[l,5-a]benzimidazole, 2-methyl-5-aminophenol, 5-N-(B-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylphenol, 3-aminophenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, the corresponding addition salts with an acid and the corresponding mixtures.

[0151] In general, the addition salts of the couplers that can be used in the context of the invention are in particular chosen from addition salts with an acid, such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates and addition salts with a base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.

[0152] Furthermore, the solvates more particularly represent the hydrates of these couplers and / or the association of these couplers with a linear or branched alcohol in the C4 to C5 groups such as methanol, ethanol, isopropanol, n-propanol. Preferably, the solvates are hydrates.

[0153] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free from oxidation couplers selected from resorcinol, 2-methyl resorcinol, 4-chloro resorcinol, their addition salts, their solvates, and the solvates of their salts.

[0154] When the composition includes one or more oxidation couplers, the total content of the coupler(s) present in the composition according to the invention varies from 0.001 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, better from 0.01 to 10% by weight, even better from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0155] When present, the total content of oxidation dyes varies preferably from 0.001 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, better from 0.01 to 10% by weight, even better from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0156] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more synthetic or natural direct dyes, selected from anionic and non-ionic species ionic, preferably cationic or non-ionic species, either as sole colorants or in addition to the oxidation colorant(s).

[0157] Examples of suitable direct dyes that may be mentioned include azo direct dyes; (poly)methine dyes such as cyanines, hemicyanines and styryls; carbonyl dyes; azine dyes; nitro(hetero)aryl dyes; tri(hetero)arylmethane dyes; porphyrin dyes; phthalocyanine dyes and natural direct dyes, alone or in mixtures.

[0158] When present, the direct colorant(s) represent more particularly 0.001% to 10% by weight and preferably 0.005% to 5% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

[0159] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition and, similarly, the ready-to-use composition contains at least one colorant and preferably at least one oxidation colorant as defined above. Additional surfactants

[0160] The composition according to the present invention may include one (or more) additional surfactant(s).

[0161] An additional surfactant is understood to be a surfactant other than the fatty acids used in the invention.

[0162] These can be selected from anionic surfactants, non-ionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants and / or mixtures thereof.

[0163] According to a preferred embodiment, the additional surfactants are non-ionic surfactants.

[0164] Examples of non-ionic surfactants include the following: - oxyalkylenated alkyl(C8-C24)phenols; - alcohols in the C8 to C40 range, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylated or glycerolated, preferably oxyalkylated, they preferably have one or two fatty chains; - C8 to C30 fatty acid amides, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated; - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of polyethylene glycols; - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or not, linear or branched, and of sorbitol, preferably oxyethylenated; - fatty acid and sucrose esters; - alkyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucosides, alkenyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucosides, possibly oxyalkylated (0 to 10 oxyalkylated motifs) and comprising 1 to 15 motifs glucose, alkyl esters (C8-C30)(poly)glucosides; - oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or not; - ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide condensates; - N-alkyl(C8-C30)glucamine and N-acyl(C8-C30)-methylglucamine derivatives; - aldobionamides; - amine oxides; - oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated silicones; - and their mixtures.

[0165] The oxyalkylated motifs are more particularly oxyethylened, oxy-propylened motifs, or their combination, preferably oxyethylened.

[0166] The number of moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene preferably ranges from 1 to 250, more particularly from 2 to 100; better from 2 to 50, better still from 2 to 40; the number of moles of glycerol in particular ranges from 1 to 50, better from 1 to 10.

[0167] As an example of non-ionic glycerolated surfactants, preferred are C8 to C40 alcohols, mono- or polyglycerolated, comprising 1 to 50 moles of glycerol, preferably 1 to 10 moles of glycerol.

[0168] Examples of compounds of this type include lauryl alcohol with 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-4 LAURYL ETHER), lauryl alcohol with 1.5 moles of glycerol, oleyl alcohol with 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLY-GLYCERYL-4 OLEYL ETHER), oleyl alcohol with 2 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-2 OLEYL ETHER), cetearyl alcohol with 2 moles of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol with 6 moles of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol with 6 moles of glycerol, and octadecanol with 6 moles of glycerol.

[0169] Among glycerol alcohols, the preferred use is particularly of C8 alcohol with C10 at one mole of glycerol, C12 alcohol with one mole of glycerol and C12 alcohol with 1.5 moles of glycerol.

[0170] More preferably, the non-ionic surfactant(s) used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from: - alcohols in the range of C8 to C40, preferably in C10-C32, more preferably in C12-C28, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated or oxypropylenated or glycerolated, preferably oxyethylenated or oxypropylenated; - alkyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucosides, possibly oxyalkylated and comprising 1 to 15 glucose motifs; - and their mixture.

[0171] According to a preferred embodiment, the additional surfactants are selected from non-ionic surfactants, more preferably from C8 to C4 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated or oxypropylenated, comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene or propylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, plus particularly of 2 to 40 moles and comprising at least one C8-C2o alkyl chain.

[0172] Preferably, the additional surfactant(s) represent from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, better from 0.8 to 6% by weight, better still from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Sequestrants

[0173] The composition according to the invention may include at least one sequestering (or chelating) agent.

[0174] The definition of a "sequestering agent" (or "chelating agent") is well known to those skilled in the art and refers to a compound or mixture of compounds capable of forming a chelate with a metal ion. A chelate is an inorganic complex in which a compound (the sequestering or chelating agent) is coordinated to a metal ion, that is, it forms one or more bonds with the metal ion (forming a ring including the metal ion).

[0175] A sequestering (or chelating) agent generally comprises at least two electron-donating atoms that enable the formation of bonds with the metal ion.

[0176] Within the framework of the present invention, the sequestering agent(s) may be chosen from carboxylic acids, preferably aminocarboxylic acids, phosphonic acids, preferably aminophosphonic acids, polyphosphoric acids, preferably linear polyphosphoric acids, their salts and derivatives.

[0177] The salts include, in particular, salts of alkali metals, alkaline earth metals, ammonium and substituted ammonium.

[0178] Examples of polyphosphoric acid-based chelating agents include the following compounds: sodium tripolyphosphate (STP), tetrasodium diphosphate, hexa-metaphophoric acid, sodium metaphosphate, phytic acid.

[0179] According to the present invention, the sequestering agents are preferably chosen from diethylenetriamine pentaacetic acid (DTPA) and its salts, diethylenediamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA) and its salts, ethylenediamine disuccinic acid (EDDS) and its salts, etidronic acid and its salts, N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid and its salts (GLDA) and mixtures thereof.

[0180] More preferably, the sequestering agent(s) are chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid and its salts (GLDA) and mixtures thereof.

[0181] Among the salts of these compounds, alkali metal salts are preferred, and in particular sodium or potassium salts.

[0182] When the composition comprises one or more sequestering agents, the total content of the sequestering agent(s) preferably varies from 0.001 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 8% by weight, better from 0.05 to 5% by weight, or even better, 0.1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional alkaline agent

[0183] The composition according to the invention may include one (or more) alkaline agent(s) in addition to (bi)carbonates.

[0184] Preferably, the additional alkali agent(s) may be chosen from organic alkali agents and inorganic alkali agents.

[0185] Preferably, the organic alkali metal(s) are chosen from among organic amines whose pKb at 25°C is less than 12, and more preferably less than 10, and even more advantageously less than 6. It should be noted that this is the pKb corresponding to the highest basicity function. Furthermore, the organic amines do not include a fatty, alkyl, or alkenyl chain comprising more than ten carbon atoms.

[0186] The organic alkali agent(s) are preferably chosen from among the alka-nolamines in particular mono-, di- or tri-hydroxy(Cl-C6)alkylamines such as 2-amino-2-methylpropanol, monoethanolamine, oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, amino acids, polyamines and mixtures thereof.

[0187] By alkanolamine is meant an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more alkyl groups, linear or branched, in Cl to C8 bearing one or more hydroxy radicals.

[0188] Among compounds of this type, one may mention monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-l-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-l,3-propanediol, 3-amino-l,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, tris-hydroxymethylamino-methane.

[0189] More specifically, the usable amino acids are of natural or synthetic origin, in their L, D, or racemic form, and comprise at least one acid function chosen more particularly from among carboxylic, sulfonic, phosphonic, or phosphoric acid functions. The amino acids may be in neutral or ionic form.

[0190] As examples of amino acids that can be used in the present invention, we can mention in particular aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine and valine.

[0191] Among the inorganic alkali agents that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of ammonium hydroxide (also called ammonia), mineral hydroxides, silicates, metasilicates, phosphates, hydrogen- phosphates, and in particular ammonium hydroxide, alkali metal silicates or metasilicates, notably sodium silicate and sodium metasilicate.

[0192] Among mineral hydroxides, sodium hydroxide is preferred.

[0193] Preferably, the additional alkali agent(s) is (or are) selected from ammonium hydroxide, alkanolamines, alkali metal silicates and metasilicates, mineral hydroxides and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from ammonium hydroxide, alkanolamines and mixtures thereof, better selected from ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine and mixtures thereof.

[0194] Even more preferably, the additional alkali agent is ammonium hydroxide.

[0195] Advantageously, the total content of the additional alkali agent(s) ranges from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably still from 1 to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0196] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises: - at least one wax 1); - at least one (bi)carbonate 2); - at least one fatty acid 3); - at least one additional fat 4) preferably chosen from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms, vegetable oils, fatty alcohols and liquid fatty esters, and mixtures thereof; - at least one colorant, preferably chosen from oxidation colorants; - at least one additional surfactant, preferably chosen from non-ionic surfactants, more preferably chosen from C8 to C40 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated or oxypropylenated, comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene or propylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 moles, and comprising at least one C8-C20 alkyl chain -at least one additional alkaline agent. Solvents

[0197] The composition according to the invention may also include at least one organic solvent.

[0198] Examples of organic solvents include, for instance, linear or branched C2-C4 alkanols such as ethanol, propanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, 1,3-propanediol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-ethyl ether and monomethyl ether, as well as aromatic alcohols or ethers such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0199] Preferably, the organic solvent(s) is / are chosen from among the polyols, more preferentially chosen from propylene glycol, glycerol, propane-1,3-diol and their mixtures.

[0200] The organic solvent(s) may be present in a total quantity ranging from 0.01 to 30% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1 to 25% by weight, better from 0.5 to 20% by weight, even better from 1 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0201] Furthermore, the composition according to the invention is preferably an aqueous composition. Preferably, the composition comprises water in an amount greater than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 10% by weight, better greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0202] The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more nonionic polyoxyalkylated fatty alcohol ether(s) of the following formula (I):

[0203] R-(O-Alk)n-OR' (I),

[0204] wherein: R denotes a hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, in C10-C30, R' denotes a hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, in C10-C30 that can be substituted by a hydroxyl radical, said hydroxyl radical being preferably located in the beta position of the ether function and n is an integer between 1 and 100 inclusive Alk represents a (C1-C6) alkylene group, linear or branched, preferably linear such as ethylene or propylene, preferably ethylene.

[0205] According to a particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, the Alk radical of formula (I) represents a -CH2-CH2- group

[0206] More particularly, the nonionic fatty alcohol polyoxyalkylened ether of formula (i) is such that R and R', independently of each other, denote a hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, preferably linear, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated; in C12-C20, preferably in C14-C18; R' being able to be substituted by at least one hydroxyl radical, said hydroxyl radical being preferably located in the beta position of the ether function and n denotes an integer greater than or equal to 20, for example from 20 to 100, preferably from 40 to 80.

[0207] Preferably R and R' denote an alkyl radical.

[0208] According to a more preferred embodiment, the nonionic polyoxyalkylened fatty alcohol ether of formula (I) is such that: R denotes an alkyl radical, preferably linear, in C16-C18, and R' denotes an alkyl radical, preferably linear, in C14 substituted by an OH group, said hydroxyl radical being preferably located in the beta position of the ether function and n is equal to 60.

[0209] Preferably the nonionic compound of formula (I) has the following formula

Claims

R(OCH2CH2)tpCH2GHOH 1 (CH^nCHs [0210] with R being a cetyl or stearyl group with n = 60. [0211] Such a compound is for example named in the CTFA Dictionary under the name CETEARETH 60 MYRISTYL GLYCOL or HYDROGENATED TALLOWETH 60 MYRISTYL GLYCOL. A CETEARETH 60 MYRISTYL GLYCOL is for example sold by the company AKZO under the trade name ELFACOS GT 282 S. [0212] When it(they) is(are) present, preferably, the non-ionic ether(s) of polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohol (I) is(are) present in a content ranging from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.075 to 2% by weight, better still from 0.01 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Additives [0213] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more additives, different from the compounds previously described and among which may be mentioned cationic, anionic, non-ionic, amphoteric polymers or their mixtures, vitamins and pro-vitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, plasticizing agents, solubilizing agents, opacifying or pearlescent agents, anti-oxidant agents, hydroxy acids, perfumes. [0214] The above additives may generally be present in an amount of between 0 and 20% by weight for each of them, relative to the total weight of the ready-to-use composition. [0215] Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not comprise a cationic polymer. [0216] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention further comprises one or more chemical oxidants as described below. According to this embodiment, the composition is a ready-to-use composition. [0217] Preferably, the pH of the ready-to-use composition is between 8 and 11, preferably between 9 and 10.

5. [0218] According to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention does not comprise chemical oxidizing agents. According to this embodiment, the composition is preferably intended to be mixed with one or more chemical oxidizing agent(s). [0219] Preferably, the pH of the composition not containing a chemical oxidizing agent is between 8 and 13, preferably between 9 and 12. [0220] According to another particular embodiment, the pH of the composition not containing a chemical oxidizing agent is between 7 and 10 and the pH of the composition ready to use is between 6 and 9. Process [0221] The present invention also relates to a process for coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, which comprises the application to said keratin fibers of an effective amount of a composition as defined above, in the presence of an oxidizing agent. [0222] The composition can be applied to dry or wet keratin fibers. At the end of the treatment, the keratin fibers are optionally rinsed with water, optionally undergo washing with a shampoo followed by rinsing with water, before being dried or left to dry. [0223] Preferably, the method according to the invention comprises a step of mixing the composition described above which does not comprise a chemical oxidizing agent with an oxidizing composition comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent. This mixing step is preferably carried out at the time of use, just before applying the composition resulting from the mixture to the hair. [0224] According to this embodiment, at the time of use, the composition according to the invention is derived from the mixture of at least two compositions: a composition comprising: - at least one wax 1); - at least one (bi)carbonate 2); - at least one fatty acid 3); - at least one additional fatty substance 4); - at least one dye 5), preferably at least one oxidation dye and an oxidizing composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide. [0225] In a preferred embodiment, the process for coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, according to the invention comprises the step of applying to the keratin fibers a composition resulting from the mixture, at the time of use, of at least two compositions: (a) a composition comprising: - at least one wax 1); - at least one (bi)carbonate 2); - at least one fatty acid 3); - at least one additional fatty substance 4); - at least one dye 5), preferably at least one oxidation dye; - at least one additional surfactant; - at least one additional alkaline agent; b) an oxidizing composition comprising one or more oxidizing agents chemicals. [0226] More particularly, the chemical oxidizing agent(s) are chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates or ferricyanides, peroxygenated salts such as, for example, persulfates, perborates, peracids and their precursors and alkali or alkaline-earth metal percarbonates and their mixtures. Preferably, the oxidizing agent is chosen from hydrogen peroxide. [0227] The oxidizing composition is preferably an aqueous composition. In particular, it comprises more than 5% by weight of water, preferably more than 10% by weight of water, and even more advantageously more than 20% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the oxidizing composition. [0228] It may also comprise one or more organic solvents chosen from those listed above; the latter representing more particularly, when present, from 1 to 40% by weight relative to the weight of the oxidizing composition, and preferably from 5 to 30% by weight of the oxidizing composition. The oxidizing composition also preferably comprises one or more acidifying agents. Among the acidifying agents, mention may be made, by way of example, of mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, sulfonic acids. [0229] In addition, the oxidizing composition may comprise fatty substances such as those described above, preferably chosen from fatty alcohols, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms and their mixtures, surfactants, polymers. [0230] Usually, the pH of the oxidizing composition, when aqueous, is less than 7, preferably ranging from 1.5 to 4. [0231] Preferably, the oxidizing composition comprises hydrogen peroxide as oxidizing agent, in aqueous solution, the concentration of which varies, more particularly, from 0.1 to 50%, more particularly between 0.5 and 20%, and even more preferably between 1 and 15% by weight relative to the weight of the oxidizing composition. Kit [0232] Another subject of the invention is a device with several compartments, preferably two compartments, for coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising at least a first compartment containing the coloring composition according to the invention and at least a second compartment containing an oxidizing composition as described above. [0233] The compositions of the device according to the invention are packaged in separate compartments, accompanied, optionally, by application means app-

Citation Information

Patent Citations

  • Oxidative hair dye composition

    DE19543988A1

  • Tetraaminopyrimidines as developers in oxidation hair dyes - esp. used with meta aminophenol couplers for blue shading dyes

    DE2359399A1

  • oxidation hair dyes CONTAINING DIAMINOPYRAZOL DERIVATIVES AND NEW DIAMINOPYRAZOL DERIVATIVES

    DE3843892A1

  • hair dyes CONTAINING AMINOPYRAZOL DERIVATIVES AND NEW PYRAZOL DERIVATIVES

    DE4133957A1

  • Hair dyeing composition

    EP0770375A1