METHOD FOR MANUFACTURING POWDERED COSMETIC PRODUCTS

Abstract

The invention relates to a process for producing cosmetic products comprising at least the following steps: drying (2, 20) the pellets (1) to a water activity (AW) of less than 0.6, allowing them to cool (3) to room temperature, grinding (4, 40) the dried pellets to a powder (6) of the desired particle size, incorporating (7, 70) at least one solid (8, 80) or liquid (9, 90) ingredient into the powder (6), mixing (10, 100) the powder (6) and the ingredients (8, 80, 9, 90), and packaging (12) the mixture (6B). Figure to be published with the abstract: Fig. 1

Description

Title of the invention: METHOD FOR MANUFACTURING POWDERED COSMETIC PRODUCTS

[0001] The invention relates to a method for manufacturing powdered cosmetic products.

[0002] Here, the expression "cosmetic products" designates cleaning or detergent products, in particular for human use, such as washing gels for the hands, body, face, hair, shower gels or shampoos. Solid cosmetic products such as soaps or liquids such as shower gels or shampoos are known.

[0003] These types of products are bulky to transport and store and require dedicated packaging. In addition, for products in liquid or paste form, the presence of water limits their shelf life. FR-B-3 064 916 discloses a shower gel to be reconstituted from powder. Such a gel is in the form of a powder based on soap flakes with additives. The end user simply needs to add water, after introducing the powder into a container, to obtain a ready-to-use gel. To make such a powder, the soap flakes are produced specifically. Indeed, the industrially available soap paste base has characteristics that do not allow, directly, its use to produce the powder that is the subject of the invention according to FR-B-3 064 916.The present invention relates to the industrial production of cosmetic product powder, usable according to the invention known from FR-B-3 064 916 and this from soap paste in the form of soap balls available on the market. For the record, the term ball designates soap paste, generally in the form of shavings, cylinders or pellets, used at the industrial or semi-industrial level as a base for manufacturing various cosmetic or cleaning products.

[0004] The object of the invention is to propose a process for manufacturing powdered cosmetic products, on an industrial scale and easily automated.

[0005] To this end, the invention relates to a process for producing powdered cosmetic products from soap balls, characterized in that it comprises at least the following steps: - a) dry the buds to a water activity or AW value of less than 0.6, - b) allow the dried nubs to cool to room temperature, - c) grind the nubs obtained in step b) until a powder of the desired particle size is obtained, - d) incorporating into the powder obtained in step c) at least one ad- ingredient solid or liquid supplement selected from perfumes, thickening agents, foaming agents, emollient agents, pH regulators, colorants, preservatives, surfactants, texturizing agents, fixatives, opacifiers, exfoliants, UV filters, - e) mixing the powder and the ingredients incorporated in step d) and - f) packaging the powder mixture obtained in step e) in a package defined.

[0006] Thus, thanks to the invention, powdered cosmetic products are produced which have a long shelf life due to the minimal water activity of the powder. This powder is obtained from a raw material of wet industrial origin, in this case, balls, which are readily available on the market. Such a process allows for automated production which is easily adaptable to various types of powdered cosmetic products.

[0007] According to advantageous, but not obligatory, aspects, such a manufacturing method comprises one or more of the following steps:

[0008] Drying is carried out by fixed or rotary dryers known per se.

[0009] Grinding step c) is followed if necessary by a sieving step before mixing step d).

[0010] After mixing step e) and before conditioning step f), an additional sieving step is carried out on the mixture obtained in step e).

[0011] In another embodiment, a step g) of incorporating at least one solid or liquid ingredient chosen from perfumes, thickening agents, foaming agents, emollient agents, pH correctors, colorants, preservatives, surfactants, texturizing agents, fixatives, opacifiers, exfoliants, anti-UV filters into the buds is carried out prior to the step of drying the buds similar to step a).

[0012] At least one additional step h) of cutting the balls to which ingredients have been incorporated during step g) is carried out before drying similar to step a).

[0013] Other advantages than these will appear clearly on reading the description which follows, given solely by way of non-limiting example and made with reference to the attached drawing in which:

[0014] [Fig. 1] is a schematic diagram of two embodiments of the manufacturing method, object of the invention.

[0015] The two embodiments will now be described, it being understood that both embodiments are automatable and are implemented by devices and apparatuses known per se. In addition, certain steps are common to both embodiments. The choice of one or the other embodiment depends, among other things, on the in ingredients to be incorporated, the configuration of the production line and the presence or absence of storage of intermediate products in the process.

[0016] A first embodiment of the method is referenced A and illustrated in the left part of [Fig.l]. The first step consists of carrying out a drying referenced 2, of the soap balls 1. These latter are obtained on the market and either used directly once delivered or after temporary storage. The balls 1 represent a particular form of industrial soap paste. They are solid, pasty elements, of small dimensions, in the form of shavings, pellets, granules, cylinders or noodles. Due to their configurations and their constitutions, the balls 1 have a relatively high humidity rate, of the order of 11% to 15% by weight.

[0017] Drying 2 of the bungs 1 allows optimized use, while limiting the risks of clogging and / or blocking of the devices used. Drying 2 is carried out at a temperature between 40°C and 80°C, advantageously close to 60°C, for a duration between 10 h and 20 h, advantageously close to 18 h. In all cases, whatever the drying conditions 2 and / or the equipment used, for example one or more plate dryers and / or one or more rotary dryers, the drying must be carried out under optimal hygiene conditions while respecting the manufacturing criteria in force in the cosmetics industry. In addition, the drying conditions and / or equipment must not alter the physicochemical characteristics of the bungs 1.

[0018] Once drying 2 has achieved a final water activity or AW value of the dry product of less than 0.6, drying 2 is stopped. As a reminder, water activity represents the free water in a product. It varies between 0 and 1 and is defined as the ratio of the partial water vapor pressure of a product and the saturated vapor pressure of pure water at the same temperature. The preservation and stability of non-mineral products are linked to water activity. For example, most pathogenic bacteria grow at AW values ​​greater than 0.91.

[0019] During a second step 3, the bungs 1 are left to rest either in the dryers or in suitable containers so as to avoid any degradation and / or contamination. This step 3 allows the bungs 1 to be cooled naturally so that they cool down to room temperature, i.e. to a temperature close to 20°C. The second step 3 has a minimum duration of approximately 4 hours. The following steps will be carried out in a dedicated production area while maintaining the lowest possible relative humidity in order to keep the water activity level of the bungs 1 below 0.6, i.e. the value obtained at the end of the first step.

[0020] The next step consists of carrying out a grinding 4 at room temperature of the dry balls. This step is carried out by grinders known per se, for example disc or knife mills. In all cases, the grinding 4 is carried out so as to obtain, after sieving 5 if necessary, a powder 6 of a desired particle size, for example close to 20 Mesh at the end. It is easy to understand that the final particle size can be different depending on the needs and the desired characteristics of the final powder. The powder can be used directly after grinding and sieving as long as it is at room temperature.

[0021] In a variant not illustrated, once the grinding 4 and, if necessary, the sieving 5 have been carried out, the dry powdered nuggets 6 and at room temperature are stored in environmental conditions making it possible to avoid any rise in temperature and humidity rather than being used directly in the rest of the production. The next step consists of incorporating 7 of the ingredients, solid 8 or liquid 9, into the powder 6 of nuggets thus obtained. These ingredients 8, 9 are chosen, among others and not exclusively, from perfumes, thickening agents, foaming agents, emollient agents, pH correctors, colorants, preservatives, surfactants, texturizing agents, fixatives, opacifiers, exfoliants, anti-UV filters.The ingredients 8 in solid form, for example in powder, cylinders, granules or other forms, are if necessary previously ground at room temperature in order to avoid any rise in temperature of the products, to obtain a final particle size close to that of the powder 6 of balls, i.e. of the order of 20 Mesh. For the ingredients 9 in liquid form, for example vegetable oils, oily macerates, these are incorporated at room temperature with stirring and in a controlled manner to avoid any powder or pellet build-up. The incorporation 7 can be done mechanically, by a spray bar, by a hopper or other means. Once the ingredients have been incorporated, the mixture is homogenized 10 by stirring using a mixer, for example a rotary mixer. In all cases the mixing 10 is carried out while avoiding any heating of the powder 6 and ensuring that the initial particle size of the powder 6 is maintained.For this, if necessary, a sieving 11 on the powder 6A resulting from the mixture 10 with the ingredients 8, 9 is carried out. It is easily understood that the order of incorporation 7 of the ingredients 8, 9 may be different and adapted according to the ingredients incorporated. Similarly, the incorporation of the ingredients 9 in liquid form, preferably oil-based, must not affect the moisture content or the particle size of the powder 6A. This implies that the concentration of the liquid ingredients 9 is controlled as well as the incorporation conditions 7.

[0022] During a final step 12, the final product 6B, powdery and with low water activity, is bagged or packaged in dedicated containers which vary in terms of volume and shape. In all cases, these packages, bags or containers are hermetically sealed in order to avoid any re-humidification and contamination of the product. final 6B powder before use, therefore before adding water prior to use.

[0023] Another embodiment, called method B, is now described. It is illustrated in the right part of [Fig. 1]. As noted, from a certain stage, methods A and B are identical. The difference with method A concerns drying and grinding. If in method A these stages take place at the beginning of the process, on the raw material, therefore on the bordillons, this is no longer the case with method B. The stages similar to those of method A have the same reference multiplied by ten.

[0024] Here, the first step 70 is identical to the step of incorporating the liquid 90 and / or solid 80 ingredients into the balls 1 as described for method A. Once the incorporation 70 at room temperature has been carried out initially, the assembly, balls 1 and ingredients 80, 90, is mixed 100, in a similar manner to what was described for method A. The following steps are steps carried out by equipment known per se. It is a question of transforming these products into a powder with a desired particle size of the order of 20 Mesh and with a water activity value or AW of less than 0.6. For this, the balls 1 mixed with the ingredients are refined 13, extruded 14, cut 15 by techniques and equipment known per se. At the end of the cutting step, drying 20 is carried out, followed by grinding 40 in a known manner as described for process A, in order to obtain a powder 60A having a water activity or AW of less than 0.6.From the next step, sieving 11, the two processes are identical.

[0025] Method B is particularly interesting since it facilitates the incorporation of the ingredients, the latter and the balls being in their initial states, therefore with a certain water activity. It also facilitates the mixing of the ingredients with the balls, the risk of powder clumps being eliminated. Nevertheless, this implies that the various ingredients used can withstand the drying which will be carried out during the following step without altering their organoleptic and / or physicochemical qualities. In all cases, care will be taken to maintain all the ingredients and balls at the optimum ambient temperature throughout the incorporation, mixing, extrusion and cutting process, therefore avoiding any rise in temperature.

Claims

Claims

1. Process for producing (A, B) powdered cosmetic products from soap balls (1), characterized in that it comprises at least the following steps: - a) drying (2, 20) the balls (1) to a water activity value or AW of less than 0.6, - b) allowing the dried balls (1) to cool (3) to room temperature, - c) grinding (4, 40) the balls (1) obtained in step b) until a powder (6) of the desired particle size is obtained, - d) incorporating (7, 70) into the powder (6) obtained in step c) at least one additional solid (8, 80) or liquid (9, 90) ingredient chosen from perfumes, thickening agents, foaming agents, emollient agents, pH correctors, colorants, preservatives, surfactants, texturizing agents, fixatives, opacifiers, exfoliants, UV filters, - e) mixing (10, 100) the powder (6) and the ingredients (8, 80, 9, 90) incorporated in step d) and - f) packaging (12) the powdered mixture (6B) obtained in step e) in a defined packaging.

2. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the drying (2, 20) is carried out by fixed or rotary dryers known per se.

3. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that step c) of grinding (4, 40) is followed if necessary by a sieving step (5) before step d) of mixing.

4. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that after step e) of mixing (10, 100) and before step f) of conditioning (12), a complementary sieving step (11) is carried out on the mixture (6A, 60A) obtained in step e).

5. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that in an embodiment (B), a step g) of incorporation (70) into the bungs (1) of at least one additional solid (80) or liquid (90) ingredient chosen from perfumes, thickening agents, foaming agents, emollient agents, pH correctors, colorants,

6. preservatives, surfactants, texturizing agents, fixatives, opacifiers, exfoliants, UV filters is carried out prior to the drying step (20) of the plugs (1) similar to step a). Method according to claim 5, characterized in that at least one additional step h) of cutting (15) the balls into which ingredients (80, 90) have been incorporated (70) during step g) is carried out before drying similar to step a).

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