COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING ETHOXYLATED MATERIALS TO IMPROVE THE PHYSICAL STABILITY OF POLYMER EMULSIONS
Ethoxylated materials enhance the physical stability of polymer-stabilized cosmetic emulsions, allowing for high concentrations of soluble assets in both water and oil, while maintaining a lightweight, serum-like texture even under freezing conditions.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2023011720
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Utility models
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2023-10-27
- Publication Date
- 2025-05-02
- Estimated Expiration
- 2033-10-27
AI Technical Summary
Cosmetic emulsions stabilized solely by polymers face challenges in maintaining physical stability, especially when containing oil-soluble active ingredients, leading to instability and undesirable textures.
The use of ethoxylated materials in cosmetic compositions provides improved physical stability of polymer-stabilized emulsions without altering the texture, allowing for higher concentrations of soluble assets in water and oil.
The incorporation of ethoxylated agents maintains a fluid, serum-like texture even under freezing/thawing cycles, ensuring the stability of a high concentration of soluble assets, outperforming formulations without ethoxylated emulsifiers.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING ETHOXYLATED MATERIALS FOR IMPROVING THE PHYSICAL STABILITY OF POLYMER EMULSIONS FIELD OF THE INVENTION
[0001] The present invention generally relates to a fluid emulsion cosmetic composition and a method of making the same for providing benefits to the skin of a user, the fluid emulsion cosmetic composition comprising a combination of water-soluble and oil-soluble actives in a fluid emulsion to provide benefits to the skin of the user and exhibit a favorable textural aesthetic that is stable upon emulsion breakage in a lightweight texture that is not creamy or waxy. The benefits of the fluid emulsion cosmetic composition include, but are not limited to, the inclusion of >10% of a combination of water-soluble and oil-soluble actives without loss of physical stability. CONTEXT OF THE INVENTION
[0002] Cosmetic compositions in the form of emulsions that are stabilized only with polymers, as opposed to a combination of traditional emulsifiers and combined polymers, or traditional emulsifiers alone, can provide light, fluid, gel-like textures with greater ease and this type of feel is often well appreciated by many consumers. However, when oil-soluble actives are used in conjunction with water-soluble actives, an emulsion-like system is required rather than purely aqueous serum or gel-like components that cannot support the oil-soluble actives. There is therefore a need for sensory but stable emulsion-based serums that contain both water-soluble and oil-soluble actives.Many traditional emulsifiers are solid or waxy raw materials that need to be heated to melt during processing, expending considerable energy in the heating and cooling process. In addition, waxy emulsifiers often increase the viscosity and sensory creaminess or richness of the formula, which is not appropriate or desirable for consumers seeking lighter, less thick products such as toners, serums, and lotions. Unfortunately, without the use of traditional emulsifiers, emulsion stability is difficult to achieve. Without an emulsifier that can surround the entire oil phase and prevent . coalescence of the emulsion, the only raw material present to prevent instability is the polymer itself, which may be insufficient. These polymers can emulsify or disperse the oil droplets in a gel-like matrix.
[0003] Thus, there is a need to provide a composition that includes raw materials that are not thick wax emulsifiers and that can improve the emulsion stability of polymer-stabilized formulas without significantly altering the feel or galenic (i.e., without transforming a serum into a lotion or cream) of the base formula.
[0004] This disclosure provides a composition that employs ethoxylated raw materials to increase the physical stability of polymer-stabilized emulsions. In addition, for reasons of naturalness and renewability, the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition is free of silicone. The absence of silicone provides the by-product benefit of allowing a greater extent and concentration of oil-soluble actives, including oil-soluble actives that have low solubility in pure silicones. BRIEF SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
[0005] This summary is provided to present a selection of concepts in simplified form which are described more fully below in the detailed description of the invention. This summary is not intended to identify key features of the claimed subject matter nor to be used as an aid in determining the scope of the claimed subject matter.
[0006] In various embodiments, a composition is provided for use according to the invention that includes a direct fluid emulsion composition and a method of making the same. The disclosed cosmetic fluid emulsion composition maintains a fluid texture that does not break, become creamy or waxy, or gel, including during freeze / thaw cycles, retaining actives present up to 10% or more of a combination of water-soluble and oil-soluble actives.
[0007] A first embodiment provides a cosmetic composition of fluid emulsion type comprising: a direct oil-in-water emulsion comprising at least one polymer or synthetic crosslinked polymer, at least one thickening polysaccharide, at least one ethoxylated agent having an HLB in a range of 8 to 14, at least one active agent selected from water-soluble skin care active agents, oil-soluble skin care active agents and combinations thereof, water and at least one oil, the composition being free of silicones.
[0008] In the various embodiments, the ethoxylated agent is in liquid form at room temperature ("RT" = approx. 25°C).
[0009] Another embodiment provides an emulsion-type cosmetic composition fluid comprising: a direct oil-in-water emulsion comprising at least one polymer or synthetic crosslinked polymer present in a range of about 0.15% to about 1.5%, at least one thickening polysaccharide present in a range of about 0.05% to about 2%, at least one ethoxylated agent having an HLB in a range of 8 to 14 and present in a range of about 0.5% to about 5%, at least one active selected from water-soluble skin care actives, oil-soluble skin care actives, and combinations thereof, each active being present in a range of about 1% to about 20%, water and at least one oil being present in a range of about 2% to about 4%, all amounts being by weight, based on the weight of the fluid emulsion cosmetic composition, the composition being free of silicones.
[0010] Another embodiment provides a fluid emulsion type cosmetic composition comprising: a direct oil-in-water emulsion comprising at least one polymer or synthetic crosslinked polymer selected from the group consisting of acrylates / C10-C30 alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer (may be 89% active), polyacrylate-6 crosslinked polymer, acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / steareth-25 methacrylate crosslinked polymer, acrylates / beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, ammonium polyacrylyldhné-thyltaurate, sodium polyacrylate, carbomers and combinations thereof, at least one thickening polysaccharide selected from the group consisting of sclerotium gum, gum xanthan, cellulose gum, locust bean gum, carrageenan and combinations thereof,at least one ethoxylated agent having an HLB in a range of 8 to 14, at least one active selected from water-soluble skin care actives, oil-soluble skin care actives, and combinations thereof, water, and at least one oil selected from the group consisting of pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, C15-C19 alkane, squalane, the composition being free of silicones.
[0011] Another embodiment provides a fluid emulsion type cosmetic composition comprising: a direct oil-in-water emulsion comprising at least one synthetic polymer or crosslinked polymer comprising a crosslinked polymer of acrylates / C10-C30 alkyl acrylate, at least one thickening polysaccharide comprising xanthan gum, at least one ethoxylated surfactant comprising one of laureth-4 and PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, a combination of water-soluble and oil-soluble actives comprising sodium thiosulfate, arginine, sodium hyaluronate, dipotassium glycyrrhizate, capryloyl salicylic acid, carnosine, hydroxyacetophenone, niacinamide, citric acid, caffeine, a glycine-based skin conditioning agent, water and water-soluble solvents comprising glycerin, denatured alcohol, butylene glycol and pentylene glycol, and a combination of oils comprising pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, a C15-C19 alkane and squalane, the composition being free of silicones.
[0012] Another embodiment provides a method of forming a fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition as a direct oil-in-water emulsion, the method comprising providing at least one synthetic polymer or crosslinked polymer, at least one thickening polysaccharide, at least one ethoxylated agent having an HLB in a range of 8 to 14 that is liquid at room temperature, at least one active selected from water-soluble skin care actives, oil-soluble skin care actives, and combinations thereof, water, and at least one oil, the composition being free of silicones, the method including mixing all of the ingredients at room temperature without the application of heat.
[0013] In the various embodiments, the fluid emulsion type cosmetic composition has a serum galenic which is stable against any breakage and separation of the emulsion under freezing / thawing conditions.
[0014] In the various embodiments, the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition retains a fluid texture that does not break, become creamy or waxy, or gel, including during freeze / thaw cycles, by retaining a combination of water-soluble and oil-soluble actives present in an amount that is at least 10% by weight of the composition.
[0015] In some embodiments, the polymer or synthetic crosslinked polymer is present in a range of about 0.15% to about 1.5%, with at least one thickening polysaccharide being present in a range of about 0.05% to about 2%.
[0016] In some embodiments, the combination of polymeric thickeners in the fluid emulsion cosmetic composition includes a crosslinked polymer of acrylates / C10-C30 alkyl acrylate and a xanthan gum.
[0017] In some embodiments, the at least one ethoxylated agent is one of laureth-4 and PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate.
[0018] In some embodiments, the at least one ethoxylated agent is one of laureth-4 and PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, each present in a range of about 0.2% to about 5%, by weight of the fluid emulsion cosmetic composition.
[0019] In some embodiments, the actives may include sodium thiosulfate, arginine, sodium hyaluronate, dipotassium glycyrrhizate, capryloyl salicylic acid, camosine, hydroxyacetophenone, nia-cinamide, citric acid, caffeine, a glycine-based skin conditioning agent, or a combination thereof, each present in a range from about 0.05% to about 10%, by weight of the composition.
[0020] In some embodiments, the actives include a combination of water-soluble and oil-soluble actives, the combination being present in an amount of at least 10% by weight of the composition.
[0021] In some embodiments, water is present in a range of about 60% to about 70%, by weight of the composition, and the fluid emulsion cosmetic composition includes water-soluble solvents that include glycerin, denatured alcohol, butylene glycol, and pentylene glycol, each present in a range of about 2% to about 4%, by weight of the composition.
[0022] In some embodiments, the at least one oil is selected from the group consisting of pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, a C15-C19 alkane, squalane, and combinations thereof.
[0023] In some embodiments, the at least one oil is present in a range of about 0.5% to about 3%, by weight of the fluid emulsion cosmetic composition.
[0024] In some embodiments, the at least one oil includes a combination of pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, C15-C19 alkane, and squalane, each present in a range of about 0.5% to about 3%, by weight of the fluid emulsion cosmetic composition.
[0025] In some embodiments, the at least one polymer or synthetic crosslinked polymer is present in a range of about 0.15% to about 1.5%, the at least one thickening polysaccharide is present in a range of about 0.05% to about 2%, the at least one ethoxylated agent having an HLB in a range of 8 to 14 is present in a range of about 0.5% to about 5%, each active is present in a range of about 1% to about 20%, the at least one oil is present in a range of about 2% to about 4%, all amounts being expressed by weight, based on the weight of the fluid emulsion cosmetic composition.
[0026] In some embodiments, the at least one polymer or synthetic crosslinked polymer is selected from the group consisting of acrylates / C10-C30 alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer (may be 89% active), polyacrylate-6 crosslinked polymer, acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / steareth-25 methacrylate crosslinked polymer, acrylates / beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, ammonium polyacrylyoldhné-thyltaurate, sodium polyacrylate, carbomers and combinations thereof, the at least one thickening polysaccharide is selected from the group consisting of sclerotium gum, xanthan gum, cellulose gum, locust bean gum, carrageenan and combinations thereof, the at least one ethoxylated agent having a HLB in a range of 8 to 14 is selected from laureth-4 and PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, the at least one active is selected from water-soluble skin care actives, oil-soluble skin care actives and combinations thereof, water, and the at least one oil is selected from the group consisting of pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, a C15-C19 alkane, squalane and combinations thereof.
[0027] In some embodiments, the actives include a combination of water-soluble and oil-soluble actives, the combination being present in an amount of at least 10% by weight of the composition.
[0028] In another embodiment, the fluid emulsion cosmetic composition comprises: a direct oil-in-water emulsion comprising at least one synthetic polymer or crosslinked polymer comprising a crosslinked polymer of acrylates / C10-C30 alkyl acrylate, at least one thickening polysaccharide comprising xanthan gum, at least one ethoxylated surfactant comprising one of laureth-4 and PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, a combination of water-soluble and oil-soluble actives comprising sodium thiosulfate, arginine, sodium hyaluronate, dipotassium glycyrrhizate, capryloyl salicylic acid, carnosine, hydroxyacetophenone, niacinamide, citric acid, caffeine, a glycine-based skin conditioning agent, water and water-soluble solvents including glycerin, denatured alcohol, butylene glycol and pentylene glycol,and a combination of oils comprising pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, a C15-C19 alkane and squalane, the composition being free of silicones.
[0029] In one embodiment, the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition retains a fluid texture that does not break, become creamy or waxy, or gel, including during freeze / thaw cycles, while retaining the combination of water-soluble and oil-soluble actives present in an amount that is at least 10% by weight of the composition.
[0030] Another embodiment provides a method of forming a fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition as a direct oil-in-water emulsion, the method comprising providing at least one synthetic polymer or crosslinked polymer, at least one thickening polysaccharide, at least one ethoxylated agent having an HLB in a range of 8 to 14 that is liquid at room temperature, at least one active selected from water-soluble skin care actives, oil-soluble skin care actives, and combinations thereof, water, and at least one oil, the composition being free of silicones, the method including mixing all of the ingredients at room temperature without the application of heat.
[0031] In some embodiments, the actives include a combination of actives water soluble and oil soluble, the combination being present in an amount of at least 10% by weight of the composition.
[0032] The present disclosure describes exemplary embodiments according to the general inventive concepts and is not intended to limit the scope of the invention in any way. Indeed, the invention as described in the specification is broader than, and not limited by, the exemplary embodiments presented herein, and the terms used herein have their full ordinary meaning. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0033] In the context of the invention, a direct emulsion is an oil-in-water emulsion.
[0034] “Keratin substrate” and “keratin tissue” each include, but are not limited to, limit, skin, hair and nails.
[0035] “Natural” or “naturally occurring” as used herein means, and refers to, cosmetically acceptable materials and components that are one or more of those directly obtained from nature, that are obtained from nature with minimal processing, and that are derivatives of materials that are obtained from nature. The fluid emulsion cosmetic composition according to the present disclosure is, in certain embodiments, up to 99.11% natural, or “highly natural” or “totally natural,” meaning that all carbon atoms of the intentionally added ingredients are derived from natural sources in accordance with ISO 16128.
[0036] “Skin” as used herein means and refers to cutaneous materials containing keratin such as facial and body skin, scalp, eyebrows and lips.
[0037] “Stable0” and “stability0” as used herein mean that the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition exhibits no evidence of significant changes in one or more of color, odor, pH, or viscosity, or emulsion breakdown / separation or excessive thickening into a creamy, waxy, or gel-like texture, aqueous texture, or gelation of the cosmetic composition, at room temperature and temperatures in the range of about 25°C to 45°C, and remains stable through freeze / thaw cycles of -20°C to 20°C for up to 10 days.
[0038] As used herein, the term “instability” refers to the inability of a composition to remain fluid or serum-like and demonstrates emulsion breakdown / separation or excessive thickening into a creamy, waxy, or gel-like texture, watery texture, or gelation of the cosmetic composition. Instability may occur in compositions made outside the scope of the disclosure (i.e., compositions not comprising the disclosed polymer and ethoxylated agents), and compositions including amounts of polymeric thickener greater than the amounts according to the disclosure, or conventional emulsifiers, thickeners and waxes.
[0039] The terms "exclude", "exempt" and "essentially exempt" mean that no reliably measurable excluded material is present in the fluid emulsion cosmetic composition, e.g., excluded gellan and waxes, vegetable butters, saturated alcohols / fatty acids above C16, silicones including silicone oils / emollients and silicone emulsifiers, including dimethicone, cyclomethicone, polysilicone-11, phenyltrimethicone, trimethylsilylamodimethicone, and stearoxytrimethylsilane, and other silicone oils, silicone emulsifiers and silicone elastomers, petrochemicals, including benzalkonium chloride, isododecane, isohexadecane, sulfate-based surfactants,emulsifiers selected from those with a hydrophobic substance of the alcohol or C10-C20 fatty acid type condensed with from about 2 to about 100 moles of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide per mole of hydrophobic substance, C2-C10 alkyl phenols condensed with 2 to 20 moles of alkylene oxide, ethylene glycol fatty acid monoesters and diesters, fatty acid monoglyceride, sorbitan, C8-C20 fatty acid mono- and di-acids, polyoxyethylene sorbitan, alkyl polyglycosides and fatty amide saccharides (e.g., methyl gluconamides), alkyl ether sulfates and sulfonates, alkyl sulfates and sulfonates, alkylbenzene sulfonates, alkyl and dialkyl sulfosuccinates, isethionates C8-C20 acyl, (C8-C20 alkyl)ether phosphates,alkyl ether carboxylate. Some specific emulsifiers that are missing from the composition include PEG-100 stearate; PEG-20 stearate and other poly(ethylene glycol) esters; sucrose stearate and other sugar ester emulsifiers, glyceryl stearate and other glycerol esters, disodium ethylene dicocamide PEG-15 disulfate; sodium stearoyl glutamate and other fatty amides; steareth-100 and other fatty ethers, or any other excluded material as described herein. The terms ““substantially free” mean that, although it is preferred that no excluded material be present in the fluid emulsion cosmetic composition, it is possible to have very small amounts of the excluded material in the fluid emulsion cosmetic composition of the invention,provided that such amounts do not materially affect the beneficial properties of the fluid emulsion cosmetic composition. In particular, “essentially free” means that the excluded material may be present in the fluid emulsion cosmetic composition in an amount of less than 5%, or less than , 4%, or less than 3%, or less than 2%, or less than 1%, or less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the fluid emulsion type cosmetic composition.
[0040] As shown herein, the inventors have provided the fluid emulsion type cosmetic composition in the form of a direct oil-in-water emulsion which includes aqueous and oily phases and which includes at least one polymer or synthetic crosslinked polymer, at least one thickening polysaccharide, at least one ethoxylated agent having an HLB in a range of 8 to 14, at least one active selected from water-soluble skin care actives, oil-soluble skin care actives, and combinations thereof, water and at least one oil, the composition being free of silicones. The fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition maintains a fluid texture that does not break, become creamy, waxy, or gel, including during freeze / thaw cycles, by maintaining a combination of water-soluble and oil-soluble actives present in an amount that is at least 10% by weight of the composition.
[0041] The fluid emulsion type cosmetic composition may also include one or more additional ingredients selected from, but not limited to, phenylethyl resorcinol, chelating agents, other skin active components, antimicrobials and preservatives, fillers, antioxidants, fragrances, pearlizing agents, odor absorbers, coloring materials, essential oils, vitamins and combinations thereof.
[0042] The inventors sought to develop a solution for stabilizing fluid emulsions, for example a fluid serum-like composition, which contains large amounts of oil-soluble and water-soluble actives (greater than or equal to 10%) without breaking the emulsion or without excessive and undesirable thickening or creaminess. The inventors surprisingly discovered that ethoxylated ingredients, including ethoxylated fatty alcohols and ethoxylated fatty acids, represent a class of raw materials (hereinafter referred to as "ethoxylated agents") which can offer the advantage of maintaining a fluid, serum-like consistency in the absence of silicones, with an additional benefit of allowing the incorporation of a wide range of actives (water-soluble and / or oil-soluble) which may have resistance to solubility in silicones.In general cosmetic arts, ethoxylated fatty alcohols and ethoxylated fatty acids are known as emulsifiers or solubilizers and are characterized by the presence of a hydrophobic alkyl acid / fatty alcohol moiety and a hydrophilic ethylene oxide moiety. Existing commercial products that include silicones or trace amounts of ethoxylated agents tend to have relatively small amounts of oil-soluble and water-soluble actives, and other products that include larger amounts. amounts of both water-soluble and oil-soluble actives are thick creams or gel creams that also contain waxy materials. The present invention addresses the need to provide a light, thin emulsion that includes large amounts of both water-soluble and oil-soluble actives and is stable under freeze / thaw conditions. The ethoxylated surfactant is believed to stabilize the oil phase with the polymeric thickening gum without further thickening, thereby preserving the thin, serum-like consistency of the emulsion. Specific examples of such ethoxylated agents, as shown in the examples, include laureth-4 and PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate.
[0043] The present invention describes a means of stabilizing a fluid polymer-stabilized, emulsion-based serum without adding a waxy characteristic or high viscosity by the choice of ethoxylated emulsifiers. Other polymers may be more electrolyte intolerant or thicken to add heaviness and body or thicken excessively to transform a light serum into a lotion or cream. I have identified the main attributes of MRs (liquid, HLB value, presence of ethoxylation) that provide good stability compared to other MRs that do not fall under these attributes. The ethoxylated emulsifiers have shown significantly improved freeze / thaw stability compared to the base and polyglyceryl type emulsifiers (as seen in microscope images).
[0044] Although it might be expected in the art that the HLB of a surfactant could be a primary factor in emulsion stability when all other ingredients are held constant, the inventors have unexpectedly discovered that this is not the case with respect to the composition of the present invention. As shown herein, laureth-4, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, and poly-glyceryl-6 dicaprate were all found to have very similar HLB values. However, only the former two showed a significant improvement in stability. Therefore, the HLB value is not the primary factor in stability, which is an unexpected attribute of this system. Furthermore, this can be done without the use of silicones (emollients or emulsifiers). This system can easily contain large amounts >10% of both water-soluble and oil-soluble actives without loss of physical stability.
[0045] The performance(s) of the composition of the invention compared to the reference index not having the claimed combination of ingredients are better than the reference index, including in terms of better stability compared to formulations which do not have ethoxylated emulsifiers, sensory improvement compared to formulations which would need to be stabilized using large amounts of polymer or with waxes, better durability compared to formulations which use silicones.
[0046] The cosmetic composition of fluid emulsion type is durable compared to lightweight silicone-containing serums, wherein in the composition of the invention, a low level (0.15%) of synthetic polymer is required, and the balance of the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition may include fully renewable and biodegradable components, including gum-type thickeners, actives, solvents, oils and other natural or naturally derived ingredients.
[0047] In accordance with the various embodiments, it is contemplated that some or all of the following ingredients may be excluded from the fluid emulsion cosmetic compositions used in accordance with the invention, namely: gellan, waxes, vegetable butters greater than about 5%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the fluid emulsion cosmetic composition, and saturated fatty acids / alcohols higher than C16 present in amounts greater than about 5%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the fluid emulsion cosmetic composition, and silicones including silicone oils / emollients and silicone emulsifiers. Other ingredients that may be excluded are petrochemicals and sulfate-based surfactants.
[0048] Therefore, in various embodiments, the fluid emulsion type cosmetic composition is provided according to the following detailed description. Polymeric thickeners (polymers)
[0049] According to the disclosure, the fluid emulsion cosmetic composition includes a combination of polymeric thickeners that include at least one polymer or synthetic crosslinked polymer, and at least one thickening polysaccharide.
[0050] In some embodiments, the at least one polymer or synthetic crosslinked polymer is selected from the group consisting of acrylates / C10-C30 alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer (may be 89% active), polyacrylate-6 crosslinked polymer, acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / steareth-25 methacrylate crosslinked polymer, acrylates / beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, ammonium polyacryloyldimethyltaurate, sodium polyacrylate, carbomers, and combinations thereof.
[0051] In some embodiments, the at least one thickening polysaccharide is selected from the group consisting of gums, cellulose derivatives and combinations thereof.
[0052] In some embodiments, the at least one thickening polysaccharide is a gum selected from the group consisting of sclerotium gum, xanthan gum, cellulose gum, locust bean gum, carrageenan, and combinations thereof.
[0053] In some embodiments, the combination of polymeric thickeners in the Cosmetic composition of fluid emulsion type includes a crosslinked polymer of acrylates / C10-C30 alkyl acrylate and a xanthan gum.
[0054] In some embodiments, any one of the at least one polymer or synthetic crosslinked polymer is present in a range of from about 0.15% to about 1.5%, by weight, based on the total weight of the fluid emulsion cosmetic composition. In some embodiments, the total amount of cosmetically acceptable polymer or crosslinked polymer present in the composition is no more than about 2%, by total weight, based on the total weight of the fluid emulsion cosmetic composition. In some embodiments, the total amount of the at least one polymer or synthetic crosslinked polymer is at least about 0.1%, or at least about 0.15%, or about 0.6%, or about 0.8%, or about 1%, or about 1.2%, or about 1.5%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range, or subrange thereof by weight, based on the weight of the fluid emulsion cosmetic composition.Those skilled in the art will appreciate, however, that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.
[0055] In some embodiments, any of the thickening polysaccharides is present in a range of from about 0.05% to about 2%, by weight, based on the total weight of the fluid emulsion cosmetic composition. In some embodiments, the total amount of thickening polysaccharide present in the fluid emulsion cosmetic composition is from about 0.03% to about 3%, or from about 0.05% to about 2%, or from about 0.2% to about 2%, or from about 0.3% to about 1.5%, or about 0.35%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range, or subrange thereof by weight, based on the weight of the fluid emulsion cosmetic composition. Those skilled in the art will appreciate, however, that other ranges are within the scope of the invention.
[0056] Thus, each of the polymeric thickeners, alone or in combination, is present in the fluid emulsion type cosmetic composition, by weight, relative to the total weight of the fluid emulsion type cosmetic composition, as disclosed above, from about 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.10, 0.20, 0.30, 0.40, 0.50, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.0, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, 2.0, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3, 2.4, 2.5, 2.6, 2.7, 2.8, 2.9 to about 3.0%, including intermediate increments and ranges. Ethoxylated agents (ethoxylated agents)
[0057] In accordance with the disclosure, a fluid emulsion cosmetic composition according to the disclosure includes at least one ethoxylated emulsifying agent in liquid form at room temperature in a range of about 20°C to about 28°C (in certain embodiments referred to as room temperature, "Ta" = about 25°C) and has an HLB of about 8.5 to about 16.
[0058] The terms "hydrophilic-lipophilic balance" or "HLB" designates an expression empirical determination of the relationship between the hydrophilic and hydrophobic groups of an emulsifier. This term is well known to those skilled in the art. See, for example, “The HLB System. A time-saving guide to Emulsifier Selection” (Pub: ICI Americas Inc., 1984) and US2006 / 0217283 at paragraph
[0053] .
[0059] In various embodiments, the at least one ethoxylated agent has an HLB that is in the inclusive range of about 8 to about 14, for example, the ethoxylated emulsifier has an HLB that is in a range of about 8.0, 8.1, 8.2, 8.3, 8.4, 8.5, 8.6, 8.7, 8.9, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, to about 14, including increments of about 0.1 and therebetween.
[0060] In some embodiments, a fluid emulsion cosmetic composition includes at least one ethoxylated agent in liquid form at room temperature in a range of about 20°C to about 28°C and has an HLB of about 8 to about 14 selected from the group consisting of ethoxylated fatty alcohols, ethoxylated fatty acids, and combinations thereof.
[0061] In some embodiments, the at least one ethoxylated agent is selected from the group consisting of laureth-4, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, oleth-10, oleth-5, laureth-9, PEG-7 caprylic / capric glycerides, PEG-6 caprylic / capric glycerides and combinations thereof.
[0062] In some embodiments, the at least one ethoxylated agent is one of laureth-4 and PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate.
[0063] In some embodiments, the fluid emulsion cosmetic composition includes one or more ingredients selected from the group consisting of ethoxylated agents, each present in a range of from about 0.2% to about 5%, or from about 0.5% to about 2%, or not exceeding about 5%, by weight of the fluid emulsion cosmetic composition.
[0064] In some embodiments, the at least one ethoxylated agent may include any laureth-x, where x is from 4 to about 12.
[0065] In some embodiments, the at least one ethoxylated agent may include any oleth-x, where x is from 5 to about 12.
[0066] In some embodiments, the at least one ethoxylated agent may include any PEG-X laurate, where X is from 4 to about 12.
[0067] In some embodiments, the at least one ethoxylated agent may include any PEG-X isostearate, where X is from 5 to about 12.
[0068] In some embodiments, the at least one ethoxylated agent may include any PEG-X oleate, where X is from 5 to about 12.
[0069] In some embodiments, any one of the at least one ethoxylated agent is present in a range of about 0.2% to about 5%, by weight, based on the total weight of the fluid emulsion cosmetic composition. In some embodiments embodiment, the total amount of the at least one ethoxylated agent present in the fluid emulsion cosmetic composition is not greater than about 5%, by total weight, relative to the total weight of the fluid emulsion cosmetic composition. In some embodiments, the total amount of the at least one ethoxylated agent is at least about 0.4%, or at least about 0.5%, or at least about 0.6%, or at least about 0.8%, or at least about 1%, or at least about 1.2%, or at least about 1.5%.
[0070] The amount of the at least one ethoxylated agent present in the fluid emulsion cosmetic composition is in a range of about 0.2% to about 5% by weight, or about 0.5% to about 3% by weight, or about 0.8% to about 1.5% by weight, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range or subrange thereof expressed by weight, relative to the weight of the fluid emulsion cosmetic composition. Those skilled in the art will appreciate, however, that other ranges are within the scope of the invention.
[0071] Thus, any ethoxylated agent or combination of ethoxylated agents are present in the fluid emulsion type cosmetic composition, by weight, relative to the total weight of the fluid emulsion type cosmetic composition, of about 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, 2, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3, 2.4, 2.5, 2.6, 2.7, 2.8, 2.9, 3, 3.1, 3.2, 3.3, 3.4, 3.5, 3.6, 3.7, 3.8, 3.9, 4, 4.1, 4.2, 4.3, 4.4, 4.5, 4.6, 4.7, 4.8, 4.9, at approximately 5%, including inter increments and ranges mediators. Assets
[0072] In accordance with the disclosure, a fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition according to the disclosure includes at least one water-soluble active, at least one oil-soluble active, or a combination of water-soluble and oil-soluble actives. In certain embodiments, the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition according to the disclosure includes at least one water-soluble active and at least one oil-soluble active.
[0073] Generally, the actives may be selected from any known skin care actives. The actives may or may not include anti-UV sunscreen actives. The actives may be selected, for example, but not limited to: hydroxyacetophenone; niacinamide, vitamins, e.g., vitamin A, beta-carotene, tocopherol / vitamin E, panthenol, calcium pantothenate, retinol, resveratrol, vitamin C, hyaluronic acid, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, sodium hyaluronate, essential oils, antioxidants, such as chalcones, flavones, flavanones, flavanols, flavonols, dihydroflavonols, isoflavonoids, neoflavonoids, catechins, anthocyanidins, tannins, lignans, aurones, stilbenoids, curcuminoids, alkylphenols, beta-cyanins, capsacinoids, hydroxybenzoketones, methoxyphenols, naphthoquinones, Phenolic terpenes, curcumin, pinoresinol, ferulic acid, hydroxytyrosol, cinnamic acid, caffeic acid, p-coumaric acid, baicalin (Scu-tellaria Baicalensis root extract), mangiferin, pine bark extract (Pinus pinaster bark / bud extract), ellagic acid, escin, dipotassium glycyrrhizate, phenylethyl re-sorcinol, alpha-hydroxy acids and derivatives and combinations of the above components.
[0074] In some embodiments, the actives may include sodium thiosulfate, arginine, sodium hyaluronate, dipotassium glycyrrhizate, capryloyl salicylic acid, camosine, hydroxyacetophenone, nia-cinamide, citric acid, caffeine, a glycine-based skin conditioning agent, or a combination thereof, each present in a range of about 0.05% to about 10%, by weight of the composition.
[0075] In some particular embodiments, the actives may include sodium thiosulfate present from about 0.15% to about 0.3% or about 0.25%, arginine present from about 1% to about 2% or about 1.5%, sodium hyaluronate present from about 0.05% to about 0.08% or about 0.07%, dipotassium glycyrrhizate present from about 0.1% to about 0.3% or about 0.2%, capryloyl salicylic acid present from about 0.25% to about 0.35% or about 0.3%, camosine present from about 0.25% to about 0.35%, or about 0.3%, hydroxyacetophenone present from about 0.25% to about 0.35% or about 0.3 %, niacinamide present from about 5% to about 15% or about 10%, citric acid present from about 0.25% to about 0.7% or about 0.45% to about 0.5%, caffeine present from about 0.5% to about 1.5% or about 1%, a glycine-based skin conditioning agent present from about 0.4% to about 0,6% or about 0.5%, or a combination thereof and more generally, each being present in a range of about 0.05% to about 15%, by weight of the composition, and in some embodiments in a total amount that is about 10% or more, or about 15% or about 20%.
[0076] Although the actives are given as examples, it will be appreciated that other actives compatible with skin care applications known in the art may be used.
[0077] In accordance with the various embodiments, the amount of one or more actives, selected from water-soluble or oil-soluble actives, alone or in combination, when present in the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition according to the disclosure, may be present in a range from about 0.0001% to about 20%, or from 0.05% to about 10%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.005% to about 0.01%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.01% to about 0.1%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.15% to about 5%, and in in some embodiments, from about 0.40% to about 4%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.5% to about 2.5%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.1% to about 0.5%, and in some embodiments, from about 1% to about 2%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range or subrange thereof by weight, based on the total weight of the fluid emulsion cosmetic composition. Those skilled in the art will appreciate, however, that other ranges are within the scope of the invention.
[0078] Thus, any one or a combination of active ingredients and additives may be present, each or the combination being present in an amount of about 0.0001, 0.0005, 0.001, 0.002, 0.003, 0.004, 0.005, 0.006, 0.007, 0.008, 0.009, 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.10, 0.20, 0.30, 0.40, 0.50, 0.60, 0.70, 0.80, 0.90, 1.0, 2.0, 3.0, 4.0, 5, 6,7, 8,9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19 to about 20%, by weight, including intermediate increments and ranges. Solvents Water
[0079] In accordance with the various embodiments, water is present in the fluid emulsion cosmetic composition in a range of from about 10% to about 95%, or from about 20% to about 85%, or from about 30% to about 80%, or from about 40% to about 75%, or from about 45% to 65%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range or subrange thereof by weight, based on the weight of the fluid emulsion cosmetic composition. Those skilled in the art will appreciate, however, that other ranges are within the scope of the invention.
[0080] Thus, the water may be present by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition of fluid emulsion type, of approximately 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, 48, 49, 50, 51, 52, 53, 54, 55, 56, 57, 58, 59, 60, 61, 62, 63, 64, 65, 66, 67, 68, 69, 70, 75, 80, 85, 90 to about 95% by weight, including intermediate increments and ranges.
[0081] In some embodiments, water is present in a range of about 60% to about 70%, by weight of the composition.
[0082] The water used may be sterile demineralized water and / or floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or linden water, and / or natural thermal or mineral water such as, for example: Vittel water, Vichy basin water, Uriage water, La Roche-Posay water, La Bourboule water, Enghien-les-Bains water, Saint-Gervais-les-Bains water, Néris-les-Bains water, Allevar-les-Bains water, Digne water, Maizières water, Neyrac-les-Bains water, Lons-le-Saunier water, Eaux-Bonnes water, Rochefort water, Saint-Christau water, Fumades water, Tercis-les-Bains water or Avène water. The aqueous phase may also include reconstituted thermal water, namely water containing trace elements such as zinc, copper, magnesium, etc., restoring the characteristics of thermal water.
[0083] The pH of the fluid emulsion type cosmetic composition is adjusted depending on the amount of cosmetically acceptable acid to be in a range of about 3.5 to about 8.5, or about 4.5 to about 7, or about 5 to about 6 or about 6 to about 7. The pH is adjusted to the desired value by the addition of a base (organic or inorganic), for example sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or other suitable base, or combinations thereof. Water-soluble solvents
[0084] In accordance with certain embodiments, the fluid emulsion cosmetic composition may include at least one water-soluble solvent. The term "water-soluble solvent" is interchangeable with the term "water-miscible solvent" and refers to a compound that is liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), and that has a solubility of at least 50% in water under these conditions. In some cases, the water-soluble solvent has a solubility of at least 60%, 70%, 80%, or 90% in water under these conditions. Non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include, for example, glycerin, alcohols (e.g., C1-C30, C1-C15, C1-C10, or C1-C4 alcohols), organic solvents, polyols, glycols, or mixtures thereof.
[0085] In certain embodiments according to the disclosure, if applicable, a water-soluble solvent may be selected from the group consisting of glycerin, denatured alcohol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, and combinations thereof.
[0086] In some embodiments, the water-soluble solvents include glycerin, denatured alcohol, butylene glycol, and pentylene glycol, each present in a range of from about 1% to about 10%, or from about 2% to about 4%, by weight of the composition. In some of these embodiments, the glycerin and denatured alcohol may be present at about 4% each, and the butylene glycol and pentylene glycol may be present at about 2% each.
[0087] Examples of organic solvents that may be mentioned, without limitation, are monoalcohols and polyols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol, or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or associated ethers such as, for example, monomethyl ethers of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol as well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, for example, monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol. Other suitable examples of Organic solvents are ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, propane diol, and glycerin. Organic solvents can be volatile or non-volatile compounds.
[0088] Other non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include alkanols (polyhydric alcohols such as glycols and polyols) such as glycerin, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 3-methyl-1,3-butanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, tetraethylene glycol, 1,6-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, 2-butene-1,4-diol, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, (caprylyl glycol), 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-pentanediol and 4-methyl-1,2-pentanediol; alkyl alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as ethanol, methanol, butanol, propanol and isopropanol;glycol ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl ether, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, ethylene glycol monobutyl ether, ethylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, 1-methyl-l-methoxybutanol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, propylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, propylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, propylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether, dipropylene glycol monomethyl ether, dipropylene glycol monoethyl ether, dipropylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether and dipropylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether;2-pyrrolidone, N-methyl-2-pyrrolidone, l,3-dimethyl-2-imidazolidinone, formamide, acetamide, dimethyl sulfoxide, sorbitol, sorbitan, acetin, diacetin, triacetin, sulfolane, or combinations thereof. ;
[0089] According to the various embodiments, the amount of the at least one water-soluble solvent, if any, is from about 0.1% to about 25%, or from about 0.1% to about 2%, or from about 0.1% to about 1%, or from about 0.1% to about 0.8%, or from about 0.1% to about 0.5%, or from about 1% to about 20%, or from about 1% to about 10% or from about 2% to about 8%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range or sub-range of these values expressed by weight, relative to the weight of the fluid emulsion cosmetic composition. Those skilled in the art will appreciate, however, that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention. In some embodiments, the fluid emulsion cosmetic composition comprises several water-soluble solvents, each water-soluble solvent being present in an amount defined above, wherein each different water-soluble solvent may be present in one of the ranges selected from the ranges set forth above.
[0090] Thus, each water-soluble solvent or combination of water-soluble solvents, if any, may be present by weight, relative to the total weight of the fluid emulsion cosmetic composition, from about 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24 to about 25% by weight, including intermediate increments and ranges. Oil Phase: Oil
[0091] In accordance with the various embodiments, the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition includes at least one oil. The at least one oil is present in the oily phase. The oily phase also includes one or more oil-soluble actives. In some embodiments, the oil is generally immiscible with water. The oil may be selected from hydrocarbons, silicones, fatty alcohols, glycols, and vegetable oils. The oil may include a polar or non-polar oil or a combination thereof. In some embodiments, the oil may be selected from hydrocarbon-based oils derived from plants or of vegetable origin, mineral oil, ester oils, fatty alcohols containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, fatty acids containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, and vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, and combinations thereof.
[0092] In certain embodiments according to the disclosure, the at least one oil is selected from the group consisting of pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, C15-C19 alkane, squalane and combinations thereof.
[0093] In some embodiments according to the disclosure, the at least one oil includes a combination of pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, C15-C19 alkane and squalane, each present in a range of about 0.5% to about 3%, by weight of the fluid emulsion cosmetic composition.
[0094] As used herein, oil refers to any non-polar compound that is a liquid at 25°C and is hydrophobic and lipophilic. An oil suitable for the present use may be volatile or non-volatile. The term "volatile oil" refers to an oil that can evaporate upon contact with the skin or a keratin fiber in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil(s) are liquid at room temperature and have a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10-3 to 300 mmHg). The term "non-volatile oil" relates to the oil that remains on the skin or keratin fiber, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, for at least several hours and which has a vapor pressure of less than 10-3 mmHg (0.13 Pa).
[0095] According to the disclosure, by way of non-limiting example, the oil(s) in the fluid emulsion type cosmetic composition may be chosen from vegetable and essential oils, such as Helianthus annuus seed oil, Lavandula angustifolia (lavender) oil, Mentha piperita oil, Rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) oil, Pelargonium graveolens flower oil, Citrus aurantium dulcis (orange) peel oil, Mentha viridis (spearmint) leaf oil, Citrus aurantifolia (lime) oil, Melaleuca alternifolia (tea tree) leaf oil, Citrus grandis (grapefruit) peel oil, Citrus medica limonum (lemon) peel oil, rose flower oil, Eucalyptus globulus leaf oil and related combinations. Hydrocarbon-based oils
[0096] The fluid emulsion cosmetic composition may comprise one or more hydrocarbon-based oils. For example, the hydrocarbon-based oil may be a saturated hydrocarbon, an unsaturated hydrocarbon, lipids, triglycerides, a natural oil, and / or a synthetic oil. In some embodiments, the fluid emulsion cosmetic composition may include a synthetic oil selected from the group consisting of hydrogenated polyisobutene and hydrogenated polydecene. A hydrocarbon-based oil may be a non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, such as: i. hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as glyceride triesters, which are generally triesters of fatty acids and glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have varying chain lengths from C4 to C24, these chains being able to be saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched;These oils are in particular wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy seed oil, pumpkin seed oil, pumpkin seed oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, bancoul nut oil, passionflower oil and rosehip oil. ; ii. synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms; iii. linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam® and squalane 40; iv. synthetic esters, for example oils of formula RCOOR' in which R represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon-based chain which is in particular branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that R + R' is equal to 10, for example, Purcellin oil (cetearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, such as the product sold under the trade name Finsolv TN® or Witconol TN® by Witco or Tegosoft TN® by Evonik Goldschmidt, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate, such as the commercial product sold under the name X-Tend 226 by ISP, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate, such as the product sold under the name “Dub Dis” by Stéarinerie Dubois, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyols, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate;hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate or diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; citrates or tartrates, such as di(linear C12-C13 alkyl) tartrates, such as those sold under the name Cosmacol ETI® by Enichem Augusta Industriale, as well as di(linear C14-C15 alkyl) tartrates, such as those sold under the name Cosmacol ETL® by the same company; or acetates; ; v. fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature, containing a branched and / or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for example octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol and 2-undecylpentadecanol; vi. higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid; vii. carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate, such as the product sold under the name Cetiol CC(TM) by Cognis; viii. fatty amides, such as isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate, such as the product sold under the trade name Eldew SL 205(TM) from Ajinomoto; and ix. essential oils selected from the group consisting of sunflower oil, sesame oil, peppermint oil, macadamia nut oil, tea tree oil, evening primrose oil, sage oil, rosemary oil, coriander oil, thyme oil, chili berry oil, rose oil, anise oil, balsamic oil, bergamot oil, rosewood oil, cedarwood oil, chamomile oil, clary sage oil, clove oil, cypress oil, eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, sea fennel oil, frankincense oil, geranium oil, ginger oil, grapefruit oil, jasmine oil, juniper berry oil, lavender oil, lemon oil, citric acid trennel, lime oil, mandarin oil, marjoram oil, myrrh oil, neroli oil, orange oil, patchouli oil, pepper oil, black pepper oil, petitgrain oil, pine oil, rose otto oil, rosemary oil, sandalwood oil, spearmint oil, spikenard oil, vetiver oil, wintergreen and ylang ylang oil.
[0097] The hydrocarbon-based oils may be glyceride triesters and in particular caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, synthetic esters and in particular isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate and fatty alcohols, such as octyldodecanol. As volatile hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made of hydrocarbon-based oils containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms and in particular branched C8-C16 alkanes, such as C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane or isohexadecane, oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, branched C8-C16 esters and isohexyl neopentanoate.
[0098] In some embodiments, the fluid emulsion cosmetic composition may comprise one or more oils such as those described above, and oils that may be selected from a branched or linear liquid alkane with a carbon chain length of C1 to C20. In various embodiments, the liquid alkanes may be selected from those having a carbon chain length of C1 to C20. The liquid alkanes may be selected from those having a carbon chain length of C1 to C20, or C15 to C19, or one of C11, C12, C13, C14, C15, C16, C17, C18 and C19. In some embodiments, suitable liquid alkanes that may be used according to the disclosure include hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and particularly branched C8-C16 alkanes such as C8-C16 isoalkanes.
[0099] In some embodiments, the fluid emulsion cosmetic composition may comprise one or more oils selected from polar emollients selected from esters, triglycerides, ethers, carbonates, alcohols, oils, butters, fatty acids and combinations thereof. In various embodiments, the polar emollients may be selected from those having a molecular weight of less than or equal to 400 g / mol. More generally, the polar emollient may have a molecular weight in the range of about 50 g / mol% to about 350 g / mol.
[0100] In some embodiments, the fluid emulsion cosmetic composition may comprise polar emollients which include those derived from C12-C50 fatty acids, preferably C16-C22 saturated fatty acids and monoalcohols. In some embodiments, these esters may be selected from myristate isopropyl palmitate, methyl palmitate, isopropyl laurate, isopropyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, ethylhexyl laurate, ethylhexyl oleate, ethylhexyl isononanoate, myristyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl caprate / caprylate (or octyl caprate / caprylate), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, hexyl laurate, lactic acid esters of fatty alcohols containing 12 or 13 carbon atoms, dicaprylyl carbonate and mixtures thereof.
[0101] The oil(s), if any, alone or combined as a mixture of oils, may be present in the fluid emulsion type cosmetic composition from about 0.0001% to about 20% or from about 0.001% to about 0.0010%, or from about 0.003% to about 0.004%, or from about 0.01% to about 0.1%, or from about 0.1% to about 10%, or from about 0.5% to about 20%, or from about 1% to about 10%, or from about 5% to about 10%, or from about 2% to about 7%, or from about 0.5% to about 2%, or from about 0.008% to about 0.01%, or from about 0.1% to about 0.2%, or from about 0.5% to about 2%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range or subrange of these values by weight, based on the weight of the fluid emulsion cosmetic composition. Those skilled in the art will appreciate, however, that other ranges are within the scope of the invention.In some embodiments, the fluid emulsion cosmetic composition includes multiple oils, each oil being present in an amount as indicated above, wherein each different oil (such as, for example, vegetable oils and extracts with oils) may be present in one of the ranges selected from the ranges set forth above.
[0102] Thus, at least one oil or a combination of oils may be present, by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition of fluid emulsion type, of approximately 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.0, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19 to about 20% by weight, including intermediate increments and ranges. Other ingredients
[0103] In accordance with the various embodiments, the fluid emulsion cosmetic composition may further include additional ingredients, generally including, but not limited to, chelating agents, pH adjusters, skin actives, skin conditioning agents, including, for example, glycine-based conditioning agents, humectants, antioxidants, plant extracts, vegetable oils and butters, fragrances, pearlescent agents, odor absorbers, colorants, essential oils, vitamins, antimicrobials, and preservatives, and combinations thereof. Non-limiting examples of Some additional optional ingredients are provided below. Chelating agents
[0104] In some embodiments, one or more other components, such as chelating agents, may be present in the fluid emulsion cosmetic composition in amounts ranging from about 0.01% to about 2% by weight, from about 0.02% to about 1.5% by weight, from about 0.02% to about 1%, from about 0.02% to about 0.5%, and from about 0.2 to about 0.4%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range or subrange of these values by weight, based on the weight of the fluid emulsion cosmetic composition. In some exemplary embodiments, the chelating agents are selected from trisodium ethylenediamine di-succinate, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, tetrasodium etidronate, tetrasodium pyrophosphate, pentasodium ethylenediamine tetramethylenephosphonate, sodium stannate, and combinations thereof.
[0105] Thus, a chelating agent or combination of chelating agents may be present, by weight, relative to the total weight of the fluid emulsion cosmetic composition, each chelating agent or combination of chelating agents present from about 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.0 up to about 2% by weight, including intermediate increments and ranges. Fillers (including powders)
[0106] According to certain embodiments, the fluid emulsion cosmetic composition may comprise one or more fillers. The fillers may be of mineral or organic origin, natural or synthetic in nature for the purpose of absorbing oil or providing optical effects. The oil-absorbing fillers may impart a matte effect and a non-greasy feel to the skin. The optical effect fillers may impart a soft focus / haze / blur effect to the skin, give the skin a more even appearance, reduce the appearance of skin imperfections or discolorations, or reduce the visibility of pores.
[0107] In certain particular embodiments, the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition may include fillers in the form of powders. In certain embodiments, the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition includes at least one powder selected from the group consisting of silica, pigments, boron nitride, lauroyl lysine, perlite, talc, clays, cellulose and combinations thereof.
[0108] More generally, some examples of oil-absorbing fillers include: mica, zea may (corn) starch, magnesium oxide, nylon-12, nylon-66, cellulose, polyethylene, talc, talc (and) methicone, talc (and) dimethicone, perlite, sodium silicate, pumice, PTFE, ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, polymethyl methacrylate, oryza sativa (rice) starch, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, modified potato starch, alumina, calcium sodium borosilicate, magnesium carbonate, hydrated silica, dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosslinked polymer, sodium carboxymethyl starch. In a preferred embodiment, the oil-absorbing filler comprises spherical microparticles of porous silica having an average particle size of 0.5 to 20 qm whose INCI name is silica marketed by JCG Catalysts and Chemicals under the name Spheron L-1500. According to another preferred embodiment, the oil-absorbing filler comprises hydrophobic aerogel particles whose INCI name is silica silylate marketed by Dow Corning under the name VM-2270 Aerogel Fine Particles.
[0109] Some examples of optical effect fillers include: bismuth oxychloride, silica silylate, boron nitride, iron oxide, calcium carbonate, calcium sulfate (and) iron oxides, potassium and sodium aluminosilicate.
[0110] Some examples of fillers that both absorb oil and exhibit optical effects include: silica, silica (and) methicone, silica (and) dimethicone, polysilicone-22, polysilicone-8, polysilicone-11, methyl methacrylate crosspolymer, polymethylsilsesquioxane, methylsilanol / silicate crosspolymer, vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer, diphenyl dimethicone / vinyl diphenyl dimethicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer, and styrene / acrylates copolymer.
[0111] The filler, for example a powder, may be present in the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition at a concentration of, or about 0.01% to 25%, or about 0.01% to 0.5%, or about 0.1% to 0.4%, or about 0.2% to 0.3%, or about 0.5% to 5.0%, or about 1.0% to 5.0%, or about 1.2% to 3.5%, or about 1.0% to 2.5%, or about 1.5% to about 2%, or about 1.0% to about 1.8%, or about 2.2% to about 2.7%, or about 0.25 to about 0.4%, or any other combination, subcombination, range or subrange thereof expressed by weight, relative to the weight of the composition cosmetic of fluid emulsion type. Those skilled in the art will appreciate, however, that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.In some embodiments, the fluid emulsion type cosmetic composition comprises several fillers, each filler being present in an amount defined above, each different filler being able to be present in one of the ranges chosen from the ranges set out above.
[0112] Thus, each filler or a combination of fillers, if any, may be present by weight, relative to the total weight of the fluid emulsion type cosmetic composition, of approximately 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 1.0, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, 2.0, 3.0, 4.0, 5.0, 6.0, 7.0, 8.0, 9.0, 10.0, 11.0, 12.0, 13.0, 14.0, 15.0, 16.0, 17.0, 18.0, 19.0, 20.0, 21.0, 22.0, 23.0, 24.0 to about 25.0 wt%, including intermediate increments and ranges. Optional active ingredients and other ingredients
[0113] In certain embodiments, one or more optional actives or other ingredients (hereinafter, "additives") may be present in the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition.
[0114] In some embodiments, the additives may include an antimicrobial agent or a combination of antimicrobial agents and their salts, for example, including, but not limited to, the group consisting of chlorphenesin, caprylyl glycol, phenoxyethanol, caprylhydroxamic acid, benzoic acid, salicylic acid, benzyl alcohol, phenethyl alcohol, benzalkonium chloride, 4-hydroxyacetophenone, piroctone olamine, hexylglycerin, ethylhexylglycerin, octylglycerin, benzyl-glycerin, 3-heptoyl-2,2-propanediol, and 1,2-hexanediol, and pentylene glycol, and combinations thereof.
[0115] In some embodiments, the one or more additives present in the fluid emulsion cosmetic composition may include one or more other components, for example, including, but not limited to, the group consisting of penetrants; sequestrants; fragrances; dispersants; ceramides; opacifiers and combinations thereof. Although the optional components mentioned above are given as examples, it will be appreciated that other optional components compatible with cosmetic applications known in the art may be used.
[0116] In some embodiments, the composition may include a penetrant or penetration enhancer selected from ethoxydiglycol, dimethyl isosorbide, sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine, polyglyceryl fatty acid ester, laurocapram, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol, or a combination thereof.
[0117] In accordance with the various embodiments, the amount of additives, e.g., actives and other components present in the fluid emulsion cosmetic composition may range from about 0.001% to about 50%, from about 0.5% to about 30%, from about 1.5% to about 20%, and from about 5% to about 15%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range or subrange thereof expressed by weight, based on the weight of the fluid emulsion cosmetic composition.
[0118] In some embodiments, one or more additives, alone or in combination, may be present in one or both of the fluid emulsion cosmetic compositions at from about 0.05% to about 50% by weight, from about 0.05% to about 2.5% by weight, from about 0.1% to about 2%, from about 0.25% to about 1.5%, and from about 0.5% to about 1.25%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range or subrange thereof expressed by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition of fluid emulsion type.
[0119] In some embodiments, one or more other components, such as preservatives, vitamins and the like, alone or in combination, may be present in the composition according to the disclosure from about 0.05% to about 50% by weight, from about 0.05% to about 25% by weight, from about 0.1% to about 10%, from about 0.25% to about 5%, and from about 0.5% to about 3.5%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range or subrange thereof expressed by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
[0120] Thus, an additive or a combination of additives may be present in the fluid emulsion type cosmetic composition, by weight, relative to the total weight of the fluid emulsion type cosmetic composition, each additive or the combination of additives has approximately 0.001, 0.002, 0.003, 0.004, 0.005, 0.006, 0.007, 0.008, 0.009, 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.10, 0.20, 0.30, 0.40, 0.50, 0.60, 0.70, 0.80, 0.90, 1.0, 2. 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, 48, 49 to about 50% by weight, including intermediate increments and ranges. EXAMPLES Example 1: Raw materials
[0121] The following raw materials were used in the examples herein.
[0122] [Tables 1] Raw Material Trade Name Percentage of Active Acrylates / C10-C30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer Pemulen EZ4U 100% Laureth-4 100% PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate 100% Oleth-10 100% Oleth-5 100% Laureth-9 100% PEG-7 Caprylic / Capric Glycerides 100% Polyacrylate-6 Crosspolymer Sepimax Zen Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer EMT-10 Raw materials Example 2: Representative compositions
[0123] [Tables2] INCI US INV1 INV2 BASE COMP 1 COMP 2 COMP 3 Active ingredients* approx. 15 approx. 15 approx. 15 approx. 15 Active ingredients** approx. 15 approx. 15 Water-soluble solvents (GLYCERIN, ALCOHOL DENAT., BUTYLENE GLYCOL, PENTYLENE GLYCOL approx. 12 approx. 12 approx. 12 approx. 12 approx. 12 approx. 12 WATER (approx. 66 to 68) QS QS QS QS QS QS C10-C30 ALKYL ACRYLATES / ACRY LATE CROSSPOLYMER 0.150 0.150 0.150 0.150 0.150 0.150 XANTHAN GUM 0.350 0.350 0.350 0.350 0.350 0.350 LAURETH-4 0.500 PEG-7 GLYCERYL COCOATE 0.500 POLYGLYCERYL-4 CAPRATE 0.500 0.500 0.500 1.000 0.500 0.500 POLYGLYCERYL-6 DICAPRATE 0.500 POLYGLYCERYL-2 ISOSTEARATE 0.500 TRISODIUM ETHYLENEDIAMIN E DISUCCINATE 0.300 0.300 0.300 0.300 0.300 0.300 PHENOXYETHANOL 0.500 0.500 0.500 0.500 0.500 0.500 PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRAISOSTEARATE (approx. 0.8), approx. 4 approx. 4 approx. 4 approx. 4 approx. 4 approx. 4 SQUALANE (approx. 2.2), C15-C19 ALKANE (approx. 1) Pigment (RED 4, RED 33) >0.002 >0.002 >0.002 >0.002 >0.002 >0.002 Compositions of the invention and comparatives
[0124] * Active ingredients: sodium thiosulfate, arginine, sodium hyaluronate, dipo-glycyrrhizate tassic, capryloyl salicylic acid, camosine, hydroxyacetophenone, niacinamide, citric acid, caffeine, glycine-based skin conditioning agent or ** without camosine
[0125] Example 3: Demonstration of the effect of ethoxylated agents compared to other emulsifiers on stability
[0126] To demonstrate the effect of ethoxylated agents on stability, a composition base (BASE) was prepared. This composition is an oil-in-water emulsion serum that contains 0.15% acrylates / C10-C30 alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer as a stabilizing polymer, with xanthan gum as a thickener to increase viscosity. It also contains approximately 12% total actives, a penetration enhancer, preservatives, solvents, and 4% total oil phase. These ingredients all remain constant in all formulations tested for the effects of ethoxylated agents and other agents on stability, particularly freezing / thawing.
[0127] In this protocol, which represents potential conditions during shipping and storage, one ounce of each tested composition is placed in a jar that is placed in a chamber that cycles from -20°C to 20°C every 24 hours, and vice versa, and which are repeated daily. The samples are observed after 5 cycles (days) and 10 cycles (days). Notably, the base composition does not pass the freeze / thaw stability test.
[0128] From this BASE, 0.5% of each of the different emulsifiers was added to determine whether their addition improved stability. The examples are described below and correspond to the formulations shown in Table 2 above.
[0129] [Tables3] Tested composition BASE + HLB INV 1 0.5% laureth-4 10 INV 2 0.5% PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate 11 COMP 1 0.5% polyglyceryl-4 caprate 14 COMP 2 0.5% polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate 5 COMP 3 0.5% polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate 10 Tested formulations and HLB
[0130] Formulas INV 1 and INV 2 include ethoxylated agents, while the three comparators COMP 1, COMP 2 and COMP 3, include emulsifiers which are oligomeric in nature. They are formed using repeating units of glycerin, as opposed to repeating units of ethylene oxide.
[0131] All emulsifiers are liquid at room temperature; the composition can be manufactured without the addition of heat.
[0132] [Tables4] Formula Emulsifier RESULTS BASE Base; none Passed T0; instability increases over time; unacceptable at 5 days and 10 days INV 1 laureth-4 Passed all time points; no difference in emulsion quality INV 2 PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate Passed T0 and 5 days; less stable at 10 days but better than base and other formulations below COMP 1 poly-glyceryl-4 caprate Passed T0; instability increases over time; unacceptable at 5 days and 10 days Test result
[0133] The base with added ethoxylated agents showed a marked improvement in freeze / thaw stability compared to the base and polyglyceryl agents, as shown by microscope image analysis.
[0134] It was found that although laureth-4, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate and poly-glyceryl-6 dicaprate all had very similar HLB values, only laureth-4 and PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate showed a large improvement in stability. Therefore, the HLB value is not the main factor in stability, which is an unexpected attribute of this system.
[0135] In accordance with certain embodiments, it is contemplated that some or all of the following ingredients may be excluded from the fluid emulsion cosmetic composition of the invention, namely: alcohols, for example, but not limited to, monohydric alcohols; powders comprising nylon-12, polymethyl methacrylate, polyethylene beads and powders considered microplastics; lactic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid, mandelic acid, citric acid, salicylic acid and derivatives thereof (including 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid, salicylate, sodium salicylate and willow extract), capryloyl salicylic acid, beta-hydroxybutanoic acid, pro-pionic acid, beta-hydroxy beta-methylbutyric acid, carnitine tropic acid and trethocanic acid;alkyl polyglucosides selected from the group consisting of decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, octyl glucoside, coco glucoside, caprylyl / capryl glucoside, sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate, and combinations thereof; surfactants with a C10-C20 fatty alcohol or an acid hydrophobe condensed with from about 2 to about 100 moles of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide per mole of hydrophobe; C2-C10 alkylphenols condensed with from 2 to 20 moles of alkylene oxide; mono- and di-fatty acid esters of ethylene glycol; fatty acid monoglyceride; sorbitan; mono- and di-fatty acids of C8-C20; polyoxyethylene sorbitan; alkyl polyglycosides and fatty amides of saccharide (e.g., methyl gluconamides); alkyl ether sulfates and sulfonates; alkyl sulfates and sulfonates; alkylbenzene sulfonates; alkyl and dialkyl sulfosuccinates; C8-C20 acylisethionates; C8-C20 alkyl ether phosphates; alkyl ether carboxylate, alkyl ether, PEG-100 stearate;PEG-20 stearate and other poly(ethylene glycol) esters; polyethylene glycol (PEG) surfactants, polypropylene glycol (PPG) surfactants, sulfate surfactants, e.g., taurate surfactants; sucrose stearate and other sugar ester emulsifiers; glyceryl stearate and other glycerol esters; disodium PEG-15 ethylene dicocamide disulfate; sodium stearoyl glutamate and other fatty amides; steareth-100 and other fatty ethers, cationic surfactants and other cationic compounds; silicones, such as silicone polymers, silicone elastomers and silicone oils, for example chosen from dimethicone, cyclomethicone, polysilicone-11, phenyl trimethicone, trimethylsilyl amodimethicone, stearoxytrimethylsilane, cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane and combinations thereof;phthalates, parabens, sulfates, polyquaternium-7, microplastics, synthetic colorants, gelling agents and related combinations.
[0136] The adjective "any", "all" means one, some or all indiscriminately, whatever the quantity.
[0137] “At least one” as used herein means one or several and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures / combinations.
[0138] The transitional terms "comprising", "consisting essentially of" and "consisting of", when used in the appended claims, in their original and amended form, define the scope of the claims with respect to additional unmentioned elements or steps, if any, which are excluded from the scope of the claim(s). The term "comprising" is intended to be inclusive or broad and does not exclude any additional, unmentioned element, process, step or material. The term "consisting of" excludes any element, step or material other than those specified in the claims and, in the latter case, impurities ordinarily associated with the specified material(s).The term "consisting essentially of" limits the scope of a claim to the specified elements, steps, or material(s) and to those which do not materially affect the fundamental and novel feature(s) of the claimed invention. All methods and materials described herein which incorporate the present invention may, in alternative embodiments, be more specifically defined by any of the transitional terms "comprising," "consisting essentially of," and "consisting of."
[0139] Other than the working examples, or unless otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing amounts of ingredients and / or reaction conditions should be understood to be modified in all cases by the term "about," meaning within 10% of the number indicated (e.g., "about 10%" means 9% to 11% and "about 2%" means 1.8% to 2.2%).
[0140] All percentages and ratios are calculated by weight unless otherwise indicated. All percentages are calculated based on the total composition unless otherwise indicated. In general, unless expressly stated herein, “weight” or “amount” as used herein with respect to the percentage amount of an ingredient refers to the amount of raw material comprising the ingredient, where the raw material may be described herein as comprising less than and up to 100% activity of the ingredient. Accordingly, the weight percentage of an active in a composition is represented as the amount of raw material containing the active that is used and may or may not reflect the final percentage of the active, where the final percentage of the active depends on the weight percentage of the active in the raw material.
[0141] All ranges and quantities set forth herein are intended to include subranges and quantities using any disclosed point as a boundary. Thus, a range of “1% to 10%, such as 2% to 8%, such as 3% to 5%” is intended to encompass ranges of “1% to 8%,” “1% to 5%,” “2% to 10%,” and so on. All numbers, quantities, ranges, etc. are intended to be modified by the term “about,” whether or not expressly stated. Similarly, a given range of “about 1% to 10%” is intended to have both its 1% and 10% limits modified by the term “about.” Further, it is understood that where an amount of a component is given, it is intended to refer to the amount of active ingredient unless specifically stated otherwise.
[0142] Although the numerical ranges and parameters within the general scope of the disclosure are approximations, unless otherwise indicated, the numerical values presented in the specific examples are reported as accurately as possible. However, any numerical value inherently contains certain errors necessarily resulting from the standard deviation observed in their respective test measurements. The following example serves to illustrate embodiments of the present disclosure without, however, being limiting in nature.
[0143] Although the invention has been described with reference to a preferred embodiment, those skilled in the art will understand that various changes may be made and equivalents may be substituted for elements thereof without departing from the scope of the invention. Furthermore, numerous modifications may be made to adapt a particular situation or subject matter to the teachings of the invention without departing from its essential scope. Accordingly, the invention is not limited to the particular embodiment disclosed as the best mode contemplated for carrying out this invention, but the invention will include all embodiments falling within the scope of the appended claims.
Claims
Claims
1. A fluid emulsion cosmetic composition comprising: a direct oil-in-water emulsion comprising at least one polymer or synthetic crosslinked polymer, at least one thickening polysaccharide, at least one ethoxylated agent having an HLB in a range of 8 to 14 and in a liquid form at room temperature, at least one active selected from water-soluble skin care actives, oil-soluble skin care actives and combinations thereof, water and at least one oil, the composition being free of silicones, the fluid emulsion cosmetic composition having a serum-like dosage form that is stable to emulsion breakage and separation under freezing conditions and the fluid emulsion cosmetic composition retaining a fluid texture that does not break, become creamy or waxy or gel, including during freezing cycles,retaining a combination of water-soluble and oil-soluble actives present in an amount that is at least 10% by weight of the composition.,
2. The fluid emulsion cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the polymer or synthetic crosslinked polymer is present in a range of about 0.15% to about 1.5%, at least one thickening polysaccharide is present in a range of about 0.05% to about 2%, and wherein each of the at least one ethoxylated agent is present in a range of about 0.2% to about 5%, by weight of the fluid emulsion cosmetic composition, and wherein the at least one oil is present in a range of about 0.5% to about 3% by weight of the fluid emulsion cosmetic composition.
3. The fluid emulsion cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one synthetic polymer or crosslinked polymer is present in a range of about 0.15% to about 1.5%, the at least one thickening polysaccharide is present in a range of about 0.05% to about 2%, the at least one ethoxylated agent having an HLB in a range of 8 to 14 is present in a range of about 0.5% to about 5%, each active is present in a range of about 1% to about 20%, the at least one oil is present in a range of about 2% to about 4%, all amounts being by weight, based on the weight of the fluid emulsion cosmetic composition.
4. A fluid emulsion cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the actives include a combination of water-soluble and oil-soluble actives, the combination being present in an amount that is at least 10% by weight of the composition.
5. The fluid emulsion cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein water is present in a range of about 60% to about 70%, by weight of the composition, and the fluid emulsion cosmetic composition includes water-soluble solvents that include glycerin, denatured alcohol, butylene glycol, and pentylene glycol, each present in a range of about 2% to about 4%, by weight of the composition.
6. The fluid emulsion cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the combination of polymeric thickeners in the fluid emulsion cosmetic composition includes a crosslinked polymer of acrylates / C10-C30 alkyl acrylate and xanthan gum, and wherein the at least one ethoxylated agent is one of laureth-4 and PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, and wherein the actives may include sodium thiosulfate, arginine, sodium hyaluronate, dipotassium glycyrrhizate, capryloyl salicylic acid, camosine, hydroxyacetophenone, niacinamide, citric acid, caffeine, a glycine-based skin conditioning agent, or a combination thereof, and wherein the at least one oil is selected from the group consisting of tetraisostearate pentaerythrityl, a C15-C19 alkane, squalane and related combinations.
7. The fluid emulsion cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one oil includes a combination of pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, C15-C19 alkane, and squalane, each present in a range of about 0.5% to about 3%, by weight of the fluid emulsion cosmetic composition.
8. A fluid emulsion cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one polymer or synthetic crosslinked polymer is selected from the group consisting of acrylate / C10-C30 alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer, polyacrylate-6 crosslinked polymer, acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / steareth-25 methacrylate crosslinked polymer, of acrylates / beheneth-25 methacrylate, ammonium polyacryloyldimethyltaurate, sodium polyacrylate, carbomers and combinations thereof, the at least one thickening polysaccharide is selected from the group consisting of sclerotium gum, xanthan gum, cellulose gum, locust bean gum, carrageenan, and combinations thereof, the at least one ethoxylated agent having an HLB in a range of 8 to 14 is selected from laureth-4 and PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, the at least one active is selected from water-soluble skin care actives, oil-soluble skin care actives, and combinations thereof, the water and the at least one oil is selected from the group consisting of pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, a C15-C19 alkane, squalane and combinations thereof.
9. A cosmetic fluid emulsion composition comprising: a direct oil-in-water emulsion comprising at least one synthetic polymer or crosslinked polymer comprising a crosslinked polymer of acrylates / C10-C30 alkyl acrylate, at least one thickening polysaccharide comprising xanthan gum, at least one ethoxylated surfactant in liquid form at room temperature and comprising one of laureth-4 and PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, a combination of water- and oil-soluble actives comprising sodium thiosulfate, arginine, sodium hyaluronate, dipotassium gly-cyrrhizate, capryloyl salicylic acid, carnosine, hydroxyacetophenone, niacinamide, citric acid, caffeine, a glycine-based skin conditioning agent, water and solvents water-soluble including glycerin, denatured alcohol, butylene glycol and pentylene glycol,and a combination of oils comprising pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, a C15-C19 alkane and squalane, the composition being free of silicones, the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition retaining a fluid texture that does not break, become creamy or waxy or gel, including during freeze / thaw cycles, retaining the combination of water-soluble and oil-soluble actives present in an amount of at least 10% by weight of the composition.,
10. A method of forming a cosmetic fluid emulsion composition as a direct oil-in-water emulsion, the method comprising providing at least one synthetic polymer or crosslinked polymer, at least one thickening polysaccharide, at least one ethoxylated agent having an HLB in a range of 8 to 14 which is liquid at room temperature, at least one active selected from water-soluble skin care actives, oil-soluble skin care actives and combinations thereof, water, and at least one oil, the composition being free of silicones, the process including mixing all the ingredients at room temperature without the application of heat, wherein the actives include a combination of water-soluble and oil-soluble actives, the combination being present in an amount which is at least 10% by weight of the composition.
Citation Information
Patent Citations
Foaming O / W emulsion and use thereof in cosmetics
US20060217283A1