An aqueous sorbet-type composition comprising a polymer derived from (alkyl)acrylic acid, a polysaccharide, and a colorant, and a cosmetic process implementing it.
The aqueous cosmetic composition, featuring an acid polymer, polysaccharide, coloring material, and water, addresses the challenge of providing a refreshing, non-sticky, and non-drying texture on human skin, achieving a gel-to-liquid transformation for a pleasant sorbet-like sensation.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2023011806
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2023-10-30
- Publication Date
- 2025-05-02
- Estimated Expiration
- 2043-10-30
AI Technical Summary
Existing cosmetic products fail to provide a pleasant, refreshing texture similar to a sorbet while maintaining excellent coverage and non-sticky, non-drying sensations on keratinic materials like human skin.
Aqueous composition comprising an acid polymer (alkyl) acrylic, a polysaccharide, a coloring material, and water, which transforms from a gel/cream to a liquid upon application, providing a refreshing sensation without leaving a sticky or drying residue.
The composition offers excellent rheology and a pleasant touch, turning into a gel-like sorbet upon application, ensuring non-sticky and non-drying sensations on keratinic materials, while maintaining stability even at elevated temperatures.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Aqueous sorbet-type composition comprising a polymer derived from (alkyl)acrylic acid, a polysaccharide and a coloring matter, and a cosmetic process using it
[0001] The present invention relates to a preferably cosmetic composition comprising i) at least one polymer derived from (Ci-C6)alkyl acrylic acid and its salts, ii) at least one polysaccharide, iii) at least one coloring matter and iv) water; the use of said composition in cosmetics and a method for treating keratin materials by applying said composition to said materials. Technical field
[0002] It is of great interest to provide texture to keratin materials, particularly human materials such as skin, for cosmetic products. It is also sought to provide compositions with a pleasant texture, particularly of the gel / cream or even “sorbet” type, with particular sensations, particularly refreshing, upon application of the compositions.
[0003] In addition to providing compositions with a pleasant texture of the gel / cream or even “sorbet” type, it is sought that after application to keratin materials, excellent coverage and little or no color after application to said materials.
[0004] The idea is to find a composition, particularly a cosmetic one, which, after massage, allows the liquid to flow, by transforming a physical property such as a gel / cream into a liquid. Ideally, the transformation would take place during the application of said composition. It would then be advantageous if, once the application has been carried out on said materials, there were no sticky or drying sensations to be experienced in said materials thus treated.
[0005] These technical problems have been solved by the composition according to the invention.
[0006] Thus the subject of the invention is a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, comprising:
[0007] i) at least one polymer derived from (Ci-C6)alkyl acrylic acid and its salts, comprising a repetition of a unit of formula (I):
[0008] [Chem.l]
[0009] formula (I) in which:
[0010] * R1 and R2, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group (Ci-C6)alkyl such as methyl, preferably R1 and R2 represent a hydrogen atom,
[0011] * M+ represents a cationic counterion, preferably an alkali metal, alkaline- earthy or ammonium, more preferably M+ represents an alkali metal such as sodium;
[0012] * y represents an integer greater than or equal to 2;
[0013] * z is zero, or represents a number greater than zero; preferably y > z;
[0014] ii) at least one linear or branched polysaccharide (or polyoside), preferably branched, more particularly comprising the combination of oses chosen from glucose, mannose, and glucuronic acid, associated or not with a (keto)(Ci-C6)alkyl carboxylic acid such as pyruvic acid or such as xanthan gum;
[0015] iii) at least one coloring matter, in particular a dye and / or pigment, absorbing in the visible spectrum and / or at least one preferably black pigment such as carbon black, Yellow 5, 1e Red 33, Blue 1; and
[0016] iv) water.
[0017] The invention also relates to the use of the cosmetic composition, in particular in the care of keratin materials, in particular human materials such as the skin.
[0018] Another subject of the invention is a method for treating keratin materials, in particular human materials such as skin, by applying the composition according to the invention to said materials.
[0019] The composition of the invention has excellent rheology, very pleasant to the touch. Once applied to keratin materials, in particular human materials such as the skin, the composition transforms into a gel with an appearance similar to a “sorbet” with a refreshing sensation. In addition, the keratin materials once treated with the composition of the invention are not sticky and the color disappears upon application or immediately after being applied to said keratin materials and in particular the skin.
[0020] Furthermore, the composition of the invention remains stable over time even at a temperature greater than or equal to 45°C after several weeks, and even after one month or even two months.
[0021] For the purposes of the present invention, and unless otherwise indicated:
[0022] By “polymer(s)” is meant one or more homopolymer(s) (i.e. resulting from the polymerization of identical synthons), one or more copolymer(s) (i.e. resulting from the polymerization of different synthons), or their mixtures i.e. homopolymers and copolymers.
[0023] By “Cosmetic active”: we mean the radical of an organic or organo- nosilicié which can be integrated into a cosmetic composition to provide an effect on keratin materials, whether this effect is immediate or provided by repeated applications. Examples of cosmetic active ingredients include colored or non-colored, fluorescent or non-colored chromophores such as those derived from optical brighteners, or chromophores derived from UVA and / or UVB filters, anti-aging active ingredients or those intended to provide a benefit to the skin such as active ingredients having an action on the barrier function, anti-acne active ingredients, deodorant active ingredients other than mineral particles, antiperspirant active ingredients other than mineral particles, desquamating active ingredients, antioxidant active ingredients, moisturizing active ingredients, sebum-regulating active ingredients, active ingredients intended to limit skin shine, active ingredients intended to combat the effects of pollution, antimicrobial or bactericidal active ingredients, anti-dandruff active ingredients, and perfumes.
[0024] By “(hetero)aryl” is meant aryl or heteroaryl groups;
[0025] By “(hetero)cycloalkyl” is meant cycloalkyl or heterocycloalkyl groups;
[0026] The radicals “aryl” or “heteroaryl” or the aryl or heteroaryl part of a radical can be substituted by at least one substituent carried by a carbon atom, chosen from:
[0027] - a C1-C6 alkyl radical, preferably C1-C4;
[0028] - a halogen atom such as chlorine, fluorine or bromine;
[0029] - a hydroxy group;
[0030] - a C1-C2 alkoxy radical; a C2-C4 (poly)-hydroxyalkoxy radical;
[0031] - an amino radical;
[0032] - an amino radical substituted by one or two alkyl radicals, identical or different, in Ci-C6, Ci-C6, preferably in CrC4;
[0033] - an acylamino radical (-NR-COR') in which the radical R is an atom of hydrogen,
[0034] - a CrC4 alkyl radical and the radical R' is a CrC4 alkyl radical; a radical carbamoyl ((R)2N-CO-) in which the radicals R, identical or not, represent a hydrogen atom, a CrC4 alkyl radical;
[0035] - an alkylsulfonylamino radical (R'SO2-NR-) in which the radical R represents a hydrogen atom, a CrC4 alkyl radical and the radical R' represents a CrC4 alkyl radical, a phenyl radical;
[0036] - an aminosulfonyl radical ((R)2N-SO2-) in which the radicals R, identical or no, represent a hydrogen atom, a CrC4 alkyl radical;
[0037] - a carboxylic radical in acid or salified form (preferably with a metal alkali or ammonium, substituted or not);
[0038] - a cyano group (CN);
[0039] - a polyhalogeno(Ci-C4)alkyl group, preferably trifluoromethyl (CF3);
[0040] The cyclic or heterocyclic part of a non-aromatic radical may be substituted by at least one substituent carried by a carbon atom chosen from the groups:
[0041] - hydroxy,
[0042] - C2-C4 alkoxy, (poly)hydroxyalkoxy C2-C4,
[0043] - alkylcarbonylamino ((RCO-NR'-) in which the radical R' is an atom hydrogen, a CrC4 alkyl radical and the radical R is a Ci-C2 alkyl radical, amino substituted by one or two identical or different CrC4 alkyl groups;
[0044] - alkylcarbonyloxy ((RCO-O-) in which the radical R is a CrC4 alkyl radical, amino substituted by one or two identical or different CrC4 alkyl groups;
[0045] - alkoxycarbonyl ((RO-CO-) in which the radical R is a CrC4 alkyl radical, amino substituted by one or two identical or different CrC4 alkyl groups;
[0046] - a cyclic, heterocyclic radical, or a non-aromatic part of an aryl radical or heteroaryl, may also be substituted by one or more oxo groups;
[0047] - a hydrocarbon chain is unsaturated when it contains one or more double bonds and / or one or more triple bonds;
[0048] an “aryl” radical represents a mono or polycyclic hydrocarbon group, condensed or not, comprising from 6 to 22 carbon atoms, and of which at least one cycle is aromatic; preferably the aryl radical is a phenyl, biphenyl, naphthyl, indenyl, anthracenyl, or tetrahydronaphthyl;
[0049] a “heteroaryl” radical represents a mono or polycyclic group, condensed or not, comprising from 5 to 22 links, from 1 to 6 heteroatoms chosen from the nitrogen, oxygen, sulfur and selenium atom, and of which at least one cycle is aromatic; preferentially a heteroaryl radical is chosen from acridinyl, benzimidazolyl, benzobistriazolyl, benzopyrazolyl, benzopyridazinyl, benzoquinolyl, benzothiazolyl, benzotriazolyl, benzoxazolyl, pyridinyl, tetrazolyl, dihydrothiazolyl, imidazopyridinyl, imidazolyl, indolyl, isoquinolyl, naphthoimidazolyl, naphthooxazolyl, naphthopyrazolyl, oxadiazolyl, oxazolyl, oxazolopyridyl, phenazinyl, phenoxazolyl, pyrazinyl, pyrazolyl, pyrilyl, pyrazoyltriazyl, pyridyl, pyridinoimidazolyl, pyrrolyl, quinolyl, tetrazolyl, thiadiazolyl, thiazolyl, thiazolopyridinyl, thiazoylimidazolyl, thiopyrylyl, triazolyl, xanthylyl;
[0050] a “cyclic” or “cycloalkyl” radical is a non-aromatic, mono- or polycyclic, condensed or not, cyclic hydrocarbon radical containing from 5 to 22 carbon atoms, which may contain from 1 to several unsaturations, preferably the cycloalkyl is a cyclohexyl group;
[0051] a “heterocyclic” or “heterocycloalkyl” radical is a non-aromatic mono or polycyclic cyclic radical, condensed or not, containing from 3 to 9 members, comprising from 1 to 4 heteroatoms chosen from the nitrogen, oxygen, sulfur atom and selenium, preferably the heterocycloalkyl is selected from epoxide, pi-perazinyl, piperidinyl, morpholinyl, or dithiolane;
[0052] an “alkyl” radical is a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, in particular in C1-C6, preferably in C1-C4;
[0053] an “alkenyl” radical is an unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, comprising one or more double bonds, conjugated or not;
[0054] an “alkynyl” radical is an unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, comprising one or more triple bonds, conjugated or not;
[0055] an “alkoxy” radical is an alkyloxy radical for which the alkyl radical is a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, C1-C6, preferably C1-C4;
[0056] a “sugar” radical is a monosaccharide, or polysaccharide, radical and their O-protected sugar derivatives such as esters of sugars and (Ci-C6)alkylcarboxylic acids such as acetic acid, sugars with amine group(s) and (Ci-C4)alkyl derivatives, such as methylated derivatives such as methylglucose. Examples of sugar radicals include: sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose;
[0057] by "monosaccharide" is meant a monosaccharide sugar comprising at least 5 carbon atoms of formula CX(H2O)X, with x an integer greater than or equal to 5, preferably x is greater than or equal to 6, in particular x is inclusively between 5 and 7, preferably x = 6, they can be of D or L configuration, and of alpha or beta anomer, as well as their salts and their solvates such as hydrates;
[0058] by "polysaccharide" is meant a polysaccharide sugar which is a polymer consisting of several oses linked together by O-osidic bonds, said polymers being constituted of monosaccharide units (also called mono-osidic) as defined previously, said monosaccharide units comprising at least 5 carbon atoms, preferably 6, particularly the mono-osidic units are linked together in 1,4 or 1,6 in anomer α (alpha) or [3 (beta), each osidic unit being able to be of L or D configuration, as well as its salts and its solvates such as the hydrates of said monosaccharides;these are more particularly polymers formed from a certain number of oses (or monosaccharides) having the general formula: -[Cx(H2O)y)]w- or -[(CH2O)x]w-, with x an integer greater than or equal to 5, preferably x is greater than or equal to 6, in particular x is inclusively between 5 and 7, preferably x = 6, and y an integer which represents x - 1, and w is an integer greater than or equal to 2, particularly inclusively between 3 and 3000, more particularly between 5 and 2500, preferably between 10 and 2300, particularly inclusively between 15 and 1000, more particularly between 20 and 500, preferably between 25 and 200; ;
[0059] by “sugar with amine group(s)” is meant that the sugar radical is substituted by one or several amino group(s) NRiR2 ie at least one of the hydroxy groups of at least one saccharide unit of the sugar radical is replaced by an NRiR2 group, with Ri and R2, identical or different, representing i) a hydrogen atom, ii) a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, iii) an aryl group such as phenyl, iv) an aryl(Ci-C4)alkyl group such as benzyl, vii) -C(Y)-(Y')rR'i with Y and Y', identical or different, representing an oxygen, sulfur or N(R'2) atom, preferably oxygen, f = 0 or 1, preferably 0; and R'i and R'2 representing i) to vi) of Ri and R2 defined above, and in particular R\ denoting a (Ci-C6)alkyl group such as methyl. Preferably R 1 and / or R 2 represent a hydrogen atom, or a (C 1 -C 4 )alkylcarbonyl group such as acetyl and more preferably R 1 represents a hydrogen atom and R 2 represents a (C 1 -C 4 )alkylcarbonyl group such as acetyl.
[0060] by "organic or mineral acid salt" is meant more particularly the organic or mineral acid salts in particular chosen from a salt derived from i) hydrochloric acid HCl, ii) hydrobromic acid HBr, iii) sulfuric acid H2SO4, iv) alkylsulfonic acids: Alk-S(O)2OH such as methylsulfonic acid and ethylsulfonic acid; v) arylsulfonic acids: Ar-S(O)2OH such as benzenesulfonic acid and toluenesulfonic acid; vi) alkoxysulfinic acids: Alk-OS(O)OH such as methoxysulfinic acid and ethoxysulfinic acid; vii) aryloxysulfinic acids such as tolueneoxysulfinic acid and phenoxysulfinic acid; viii) phosphoric acid H3PO4; ix) triflic acid CF3SO3H and x) tetrafluoroboric acid HBF4;xi) organic carboxylic acids R°-C(O)-OH (Fz) formula (l'z) in which R° represents a (hetero)aryl group such as phenyl, (hetero)aryl(CrC4)alkyl such as benzyl, or (Ci-Cio)alkyl, said alkyl group being optionally substituted, preferably by one or more hydroxyl groups, amino radicals, or carboxy, R° preferably denoting a (Ci-C6)alkyl group optionally substituted by 1, 2 or 3 hydroxyl groups, or carboxy, more preferably the monocarboxylic acids of formula (l'z) are chosen from acetic acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly from acetic acid and lactic acid; and the polycarboxylic acids are selected from tartaric acid, succinic acid, fumaric acid, citric acid and mixtures thereof;and xii) amino acids having more carboxylic acid radicals than amino groups such as gamma-carboxyglutamic acid, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, in particular gamma-carboxyglutamic acid; ;
[0061] an “anionic counterion” is an anion or an anionic group associated with the cationic charge; more particularly the anionic counterion is chosen from i) halides such as chloride, bromide; ii) nitrates; iii) sulfonates including Ci-C6 alkylsulfonates: Alk-S(O)2O such as methylsulfonate or mesylate and ethylsulfonate; iv) arylsulfonates: Ar-S(O)2O such as benzene- sulfonate and toluenesulfonate or tosylate; v) citrate; vi) succinate; vii) tartrate; viii) lactate; ix) alkyl sulfates: Alk-OS(O)O such as methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate; x) aryl sulfates: Ar-OS(O)O such as benzenesulfate and toluenesulfate; xi) alkoxy sulfates: Alk-OS(O)2O such as methoxy sulfate and ethoxysulfate; xii) aryloxy sulfates: Ar-OS(O)2O, xiii) phosphate; xiv) acetate; xv) triflate; and xvi) borates such as tetrafluoroborate;
[0062] the “solvates” represent the hydrates as well as the association with linear or branched C1-C4 alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol, n-propanol;
[0063] by "chromophore" is meant a radical derived from a colorless or colored compound capable of absorbing UV and / or visible radiation at a wavelength Xabs of between 250 and 800 nm; Preferably the chromophore is colored, i.e. it absorbs wavelengths in the visible range, i.e. preferably between 400 and 800 nm. Preferably the chromophores appear colored to the eye; particularly between 400 and 700 nm (Ullmann's Encyclopedia, 2005, Wiley-VcH, Verlag "Dyes, General Survey", § 2.1 Basic Principle of Color);
[0064] by "UV-A filter" is meant a chromophore derived from a compound which filters (or absorbs) UV-A ultraviolet rays at a wavelength between 320 and 400 nm. A distinction can be made between short UV-A filters (absorbing rays at a wavelength between 320 and 340 nm), long UV-A filters (absorbing rays at a wavelength between 340 and 400 nm);
[0065] by “UV-B filter” is meant a chromophore derived from a compound which filters (or absorbs) UV-B ultraviolet rays at a wavelength between 280 and 320 nm;
[0066] further, unless otherwise indicated, the limits delimiting the extent of a range of values are included in this range of values;
[0067] by "fatty substance" is meant, within the meaning of the present invention, an organic compound insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg) (solubility less than 5%, and preferably 1%, even more preferably 0.1%); in addition, the fatty substances are soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, such as for example in halogenated solvents such as chloroform, dichloromethane, lower alcohols such as ethanol or aromatic solvents such as benzene or toluene;
[0068] by "salts of organic or mineral bases" is meant salts of bases or alkaline agents as defined below as alkali metal hydroxides such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonia, amines or alkanolamines;
[0069] by “cationic counterion” we mean a cation or a cationic group derived of organic or mineral base salt counterbalancing the anionic charge of the ingredients of formula (!') or (II'); more particularly the cationic counterion is chosen from i) alkali metals such as sodium, potassium, preferably Na+, ii) alkaline earth metals such as calcium; iii) ammonium R4N+ with R, identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom, or a (Ci-C6)alkyl group optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups, preferably R represents a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl;
[0070] a hydrocarbon chain is unsaturated when it comprises one or more double bonds and / or one or more triple bonds;
[0071] an “alkyl radical” is a saturated hydrocarbon radical in C1-C2o, linear or branched, preferably in C1-C6, more preferably CrC4 such as methyl, or ethyl;
[0072] an “alkylene radical” is a saturated divalent hydrocarbon radical as defined above which may contain from 1 to 4 double bonds -C=C-, conjugated or not; particularly the alkenylene group contains 1 or 2 unsaturations;
[0073] the expression "optionally substituted" attributed to the alkyl radical implies that said alkyl radical can be substituted by one or more radicals chosen from the radicals i) hydroxyl, ii) C1-C4 alkoxy, iii) acylamino, iv) amino optionally substituted by one or two identical or different C1-C4 alkyl radicals;
[0074] an “alkoxy radical” is an alkyl-oxy radical for which the alkyl radical is a hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, in CrCi6 preferentially in CrC8;
[0075] the expression “at least one” is equivalent to “one or more”; and
[0076] the expression “inclusive” for a range of concentrations means that the range limits are part of the defined interval.
[0077] i) the nolvmère(s) derived from (Cj-C^alkvl acrylic acid,
[0078] The composition of the invention comprises i) one or more polymer(s) derived from (Ci-C6)alkyl acrylic acid as well as its salts, as defined above.
[0079] Preferably the polymer(s) i) is (are) chosen from homopolymers.
[0080] According to another embodiment of the invention, the polymer(s) of i) is(are) chosen from copolymers.
[0081] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the polymer(s) i) comprise a repetition of units of formula (I) and of unit(s) of formula (II):
[0082] -[CH(R')-C(R2)(COO M+)]-(I) and -[CH(R1)-C(R2)(COOH)]- (II)
[0083] formula (I) and (II) in which R1 and R2, and M+ are as defined previously.
[0084] According to a particular embodiment, the polymer(s) i) of the invention consist(s) of a repetition of unit of formula (I) and formula (II).
[0085] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the polymer(s) i) of the invention comprise (preferably consist of) a repeating unit of formula (I) and formula (II) in which the molar number of units of formula (I) is greater than or equal to the molar number of units of formula (II), preferably the molar number of units of formula (I) greater than the molar number of units of formula (II).
[0086] According to a particular embodiment, the polymer(s) i) of the invention comprise (preferably consist of) a repetition of a unit of formula (I) without a unit (II).
[0087] According to another particular embodiment, the polymer(s) of the invention i) comprise (preferably consist of) a repetition of a unit of formula (I) and of formula (II) in which the molar number of units of formula (II) is greater than the molar number of units of formula (I).
[0088] The neutralized polymer(s) i) may be totally or partially neutralized. Preferably, the polymer(s) i) is (are) partially neutralized, preferably by a metal salt, more preferably by an alkali metal salt, and even more preferably a sodium salt.
[0089] According to a particular embodiment of the polymer(s) of the invention, the molar ratio of the neutralized parts (units of formula (I)) to the non-neutralized parts (units of formula (II)) is at least 10%, particularly at least 20%, more particularly at least 30%, even more particularly at least 40%, or even at least 50% and / or particularly at most 90%, more particularly at most 80%, even more particularly at most 70%, better still at most 60%.
[0090] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises one or more polymer(s) i) as defined above comprising (preferably consisting of) a repetition of a unit of formula (I) and of a unit (II) in which R1 and R2 represent a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl, preferably a hydrogen atom.
[0091] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises one or more polymer(s) i) as defined previously in which M+ represents a cationic counterion chosen from an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal and ammonium, preferably M+ represents an alkali metal such as sodium.
[0092] Particularly the polymer(s) i) as defined above is (are) chosen from "superabsorbents" i.e. the polymer(s) is (are) capable of absorbing at least 20 times its (their) weight in water (i.e. at least 20 grams of water absorbed per gram of superabsorbent polymer - the water absorbency characteristics being defined at room temperature: 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1 atm.) with distilled water), more particularly at least 50 times its (their) weight in water, more particularly capable of absorbing at least 80 times its (their) weight in water, preferably the polymer(s) of formula (I) is (are) capable of absorbing at least less than 100 times its weight in water.
[0093] The water-absorbing capacity value of the polymer(s) may be determined, for example, by dispersing 5 grams (g) of polymer(s) in 150 g of water and waiting from 5 minutes (min.) to 30 min., such as 20 min., filtering the solution through a 150 mm filter in 20 min and weighing the unabsorbed water.
[0094] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the polymer(s) i) as defined above may have a water absorption capacity of 10 g or more, preferably 20 g or more, and more preferably 50 g or more, and / or 2,000 g or less, preferably 1,500 g or less, and more preferably 1,000 g or less, relative to 1 g of the polymer at 25°C and 1 atm.
[0095] The polymer(s) of the invention i) as defined above is (are) particularly derived from the polymerization of:
[0096] a) several monomers, identical (in which case it will be a homopolymer) or different (in which case it will be a copolymer) chosen from:
[0097] - (alkyl)acrylic acids of the following formula (II') HC(RX)=C(R2)-C(O)OH,
[0098] - the salts of the following formula (I') HC(RX)=C(R2)-C(O)OM+ (I') and
[0099] - mixtures of monomers (I'), and (II'); as well as their optical isomers, and / or geometric isomers:
[0100] formulas (I') and (II') in which R1, R2 and M+ are as defined previously;
[0101] a) in the presence of a polymerization initiator (UV-initiator) to lead to the polymers of formula (I) as defined previously.
[0102] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the polymer(s) of the invention i) as defined above is (are) derived from the polymerization of monomers of formula (II'), said polymer(s) then being neutralized by the use of at least one alkaline agent, preferably the alkaline agent is inorganic, in particular chosen from alkali or alkaline earth metal hydroxides such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, alkali or alkaline earth metal (bi)carbonate(s), preferably chosen from sodium (bi)carbonate and sodium hydroxide, more preferably sodium hydroxide.
[0103] Preferably R1 represents a hydrogen atom, R2 represents a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl, more preferably R2 represents a hydrogen atom; and M+ preferably represents an alkali metal such as sodium or potassium, more preferably sodium.
[0104] In addition, the polymer(s) i) as defined above and the monomers (!') and / or (II') are capable of crosslinking in the presence of one or more crosslinking agent(s), said agent(s) may be applied for example by spraying to the surface of said polymer(s), said polymer(s) being more particularly in the form of particles.
[0105] The polymer(s) of i) as defined above may be in the form of particles.
[0106] The polymer(s) i) as defined above is (are) preferably in the form of particles and preferably spherical. The average size of the primary particles as D50 (particularly of the non-hydrated particles) of the polymer(s) i) as defined above is not particularly limited, is generally 0.1 qm or more, preferably 0.5 qm or more, and more preferably 1 qm or more, and / or is 200 qm or less, preferably 100 qm or less, more preferably 50 qm or less.
[0107] The term “D50” herein designates the particle size for which 50% of the particle volume, based on the total particle volume, has a particle size less than or equal to D50.
[0108] The D50 value can be determined by laser diffraction, for example, using a laser diffraction particle size distribution analyzer, such as Mastersizer 2000 from Malvem Corp.
[0109] The polymer(s) i) as defined may be soluble in water, the polymer(s) i) being able to be included in the aqueous phase, including water, of the composition according to the present invention.
[0110] According to one embodiment of the invention, once hydrated, said particles swell to form flexible particles having an average diameter of between 10 mm and 300 mm inclusive, more particularly between 20 mm and 200 mm, even more particularly between 40 mm and 150 mm. The particle sizes correspond to the primary particle sizes.
[0111] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the particles of the polymer(s) i) are unswollen and have an average particle size (average diameter) of between 2 mm and 10 mm, particularly between 4 mm and 50 mm, more particularly between 5 mm and 30 mm, better still between 10 mm and 20 mm. The particle sizes correspond to the primary particle sizes.
[0112] The polymer(s) i) as defined above is (are) preferably crosslinked, and more preferably in the form of particles.
[0113] In a preferred embodiment, the polymer(s) i) as defined above is (are) chosen from crosslinked homopolymers.
[0114] Among the preferred polymers i) of the invention, mention may be made of polyacrylates of alkali, alkaline-earth or ammonium metals, preferably polyacrylates of alkali and alkaline-earth metals, more preferably polyacrylates of metals alkali metals such as sodium acrylates, for example those sold under the name AQUPEC, in particular AQUPEC MG N40R, crosslinked and partially neutralized and also called sodium carbomer (or “sodium carbomer” or carbopol), more particularly the polymer(s) i) is (are) chosen from carbomer, preferably carbomer S or sodium carbomer.
[0115] The quantity in the composition of polymer(s) i) as defined above is particularly at least 0.5% by weight, more particularly at least 0.7% by weight, and more preferably at least 0.9% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0116] The quantity in the composition of polymer(s) i) as defined above is particularly at most 10% by weight, preferably at most 5% by weight, and more preferably at most 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0117] In particular, the quantity in the composition of polymer(s) i) as defined above ranges from 0.5% to 5% by weight, preferably ranges from 0.7% to 4% by weight, and more preferably ranges from 0.9% to 3% by weight, better still ranges from 1% to 2% relative to the total weight of the composition. ii) the polysaccharide(s)
[0118] The composition of the invention comprises one or more polysaccharide(s) ii). When there are several polysaccharides, they are structurally different from each other.
[0119] The polysaccharide(s) ii) of the invention is (are) of natural or synthetic origin, preferably of natural origin, in particular derived from microorganisms or plants.
[0120] The polysaccharide(s) ii) may be present in the aqueous phase in the composition according to the present invention.
[0121] The polysaccharide(s) ii) may function as hydrophilic thickener(s) capable of thickening the aqueous phase of the composition of the invention.
[0122] Preferably, the polysaccharide(s) are thickening polymers.
[0123] By "thickening polymer" is meant a polymer which, introduced at 1% by weight into an aqueous or hydroalcoholic solution containing 30% ethanol, and at a neutral pH (i.e. pH = 7), makes it possible to achieve a viscosity of at least 100 cps, particularly at least 500 cps, more particularly at least 1000 cps, preferably at least 2000 cps, more preferably at least 3000 cps, better still at least 4000 cps, even better still at least 5000 cps, at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 sA. This viscosity can be measured using a cone / plate viscometer (Haake R600 Rheometer or similar). Preferably the viscosity is between 5000 cps and 7000 cps, more preferably between 5500 cps and 6500, better still between 5800 cps and 6100 cps, at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s A This viscosity can be measured using a vis- cone / plate cosimeter (Haake R600 Rheometer or similar).
[0124] The polysaccharide(s) ü) is (are) cationic, non-ionic, anionic or amphoteric polymer(s), preferably non-ionic.
[0125] The “polysaccharide(s)” is (are) as defined above, in addition the ose units -[Cx(H2O)y)]w- or -[(CH2O)X]W-, are optionally modified by substitution, by oxidation, by dehydration, and / or by reduction. Preferably the ose units are not modified.
[0126] As monosaccharide units of the polysaccharide(s) useful in the invention, mention may preferably be made of glucose; galactose; arabinose; rhamnose; mannose; xylose; fucose; anhydrogalactose; galacturonic acid; glucuronic acid; mannuronic acid; galactose sulfate; anhydrogalactose sulfate and fructose.
[0127] Mention may in particular be made, as polysaccharides, of those derived from native gums such as those derived from exudates of trees or shrubs, algae, seeds or tubers, fungi, bacteria, animal organisms, plants, such as:
[0128] - gum arabic (branched polysaccharide of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); - gum ghatti (polymer from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid); - karaya gum (polymer from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); - gum tragacanth (or tragacanth) (polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabinose); - agar (polymer derived from galactose and anhydrogalactose); - alginates (polymers of mannuronic acid and glucuronic acid); - carrageenans and furcellerans (polymers of galactose sulfate and anhydrogalactose sulfate); - guar gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); - carob gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); - fenugreek gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); - tamarind gum (polymer of galactose, xylose and glucose); - konjac gum (polymer of glucose and mannose); - xanthan gum (polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose / pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid) or dehydroxanthan gum; - gellan gum (polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); - scleroglucan gum (glucose polymer).
[0129] Preferably the polysaccharide(s) ii) are derived from native gums chosen from:
[0130] a) exudates of trees or shrubs including gum arabic; gum ghatti; gum karaya; gum tragacanth (or tragacanth);
[0131] b) gums derived from algae including agar; alginates; carrageenans and furcellerans;
[0132] c) gums derived from seeds or tubers including guar gum; carob gum; fenugreek gum; tamarind gum; konjac gum;
[0133] d) microbial gums including xanthan gum or dehydroxanthan gum; gellan gum; scleroglucan gum;
[0134] e) plant extracts including cellulose; starch; inulin and pectin; and
[0135] f) chitin and chitosan derivatives;
[0136] more preferably the polysaccharide(s) b) are chosen from pullulan, xanthan or dehedro-xanthan gums, and carrageenan.
[0137] According to one embodiment, the composition comprises one or more polysaccharides ii) chosen from trisaccharides of fucose-galactose-galacturonic acid; particularly composed of residues of fucose, galactose and galacturonic acid, more preferably the polysaccharide(s) is Biosaccharide Gum-1 (223266-93-1) (fermentation gum derived from sorbitol) which is a trisaccharide of aL-fucose(1 —>3)aD-galactose(1 —>3)-aD-galacturonic acid.
[0138] Particularly the polysaccharide(s) is(are) chosen from a) polysaccharides consisting of a combination of oses chosen from glucose, mannose, and glucuronic acid, associated or not with a (keto)(Ci-C6)alkyl carboxylic acid such as pyruvic acid, more preferably the polysaccharide(s) is(are) chosen from xanthan gums, b) trisaccharides of fucose-galactose-galacturonic acid; particularly composed of residues of fucose, galactose and galacturonic acid, more preferably the polysaccharide(s) is Biosaccharide Gum-1 (223266-93-1) (fermentation gum derived from sorbitol) which is a trisaccharide of aL-fucose( 1 —>3)aD-galactose( 1 —>3)-aD-galacturonic acid, c) the mixture of a) and b), preferably the mixture of xanthan gum and trisaccharides of aL-fucose( 1 —>3)aD-galactose( 1 —>3)-aD-galacturonic acid (Bisaccharide Gum-1).
[0139] According to another embodiment, the polysaccharide(s) ii) is (are) chosen from: celluloses (glucose polymers); starches (glucose polymer); inulins; pectins; chitins and chitosans.
[0140] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the polysaccharide(s) ii) is (are) non-ionic.
[0141] The polysaccharide(s) of the invention is (are) preferably of natural origin. They may be derived from different sources: plant, animal, microbe, fungus or algae (see e.g. Gerld O. Aspinall I, The Polysaccharides, Vol. 2, by Academie Press, Inc.ISBN 0-12-065602-7, p. 1-9 (1983). and Journal of Polymers and the Environment vol. 29, p. 2359-2371 (2021)). According to one embodiment of the invention, the polysaccharide(s) is(are) chosen from gums of microbial origin.
[0142] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “gums of microbial origin” means substances synthesized in particular by fermentation of sugars by microorganisms or by fungi.
[0143] The microbial gum(s) may be chosen from scleroglucan gums, pullulan gums, curdlan gums, grifolan gums, lentinan gums, schizophyllan gums, spirulinan gums and krestin gums.
[0144] Mention may in particular be made of scleroglucan gums produced by Sclerotium rolfsii, pullulan gums produced by Aureobacidium pullulens, Curdlane gums produced by alcaligenes of the Faecalis myxogenes type, grifolane gums produced by Grifola frondara, lentinan gums produced by Lentinus edodes, Schizophyllan gums produced by Schizophyllum commine, spirulinan gums produced by Spirulina sybsyla and krestin gums produced by Coriates versicolor.
[0145] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the polysaccharide(s) ii) is (are) derived from plants designates a polysaccharide derived from plants or algae.
[0146] As non-ionic polysaccharide(s) ii) according to the invention, mention may also be made of those chosen from glucans, starches such as those derived, for example, from cereals such as wheat, corn or rice, from vegetables such as blond peas, from tubers such as potatoes or cassava) or hydroxyalkyl starch such as hydroxypropyl starch, amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, dextrans, celluloses and their derivatives such as methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses, carboxymethylcelluloses), mannans, xylans, lignins, arabans, galactans, galacturonans, chitin, chitosans, glucoronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, pectic acids and pectins, arabinogalactans, carrageenans, agars, gum arabic, Tragacanth gum, Ghatti gum, Karaya gum, carob gum,galactomannans such as guar gums and their non-ionic derivatives such as hydroxypropyl guar, and mixtures thereof.
[0147] Preferably, guar gums, celluloses, pullulans, xanthans and carrageenans, chitosans and their derivatives will be used, preferably pullulans, xanthans, carrageenans, chitosans and more preferably xanthans, xanthan gums.
[0148] The polysaccharide(s) according to the invention may be modified or unmodified.
[0149] Unmodified guar gums are, for example, the products sold under the name VIDOGUM GH 175 by the company UNIPECTINE, and under the names MEYPRO-GUAR 50 and JAGUAR C by the company Solvay.
[0150] The modified non-ionic guar gums are in particular modified by C1-C24 hydroxyalkyl groups, in particular C1-C6.
[0151] Among the hydroxyalkyl groups, mention may be made, by way of example, of the hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.
[0152] These guar gums are well known in the state of the art and can, for example, be prepared by reacting corresponding alkene oxides, such as, for example, propylene oxides, with guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum modified by hydroxypropyl groups.
[0153] The hydroxyalkylation rate, which corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum, preferably varies from 0.4 to 1.2.
[0154] Such non-ionic guar gums optionally modified by hydroxyalkyl groups are for example sold under the trade names JAGUAR HP8, JAGUAR HP60 and JAGUAR HP120, JAGUAR DC 293 and JAGUAR HP105 by the company SOLVAY or under the name GALACTASOL 4H4FD2 by the company AQUALON.
[0155] Among the celluloses, hydroxyethyl celluloses and hydroxypropylcelluloses are used in particular. Examples include the products sold under the names KLUCEL EF, KLUCEL H, KLUCEL LHF, KLUCEL MF, KLUCEL G, by the company AQUALON, and CELLOSIZE POLYMER PCG-10 by the company AMERCHOL.
[0156] Mention may also be made of hydroxyalkyl guar derivatives comprising a long aliphatic chain such as hydroxypropylguars modified by an aliphatic chain, in particular in C16-C22) such as the product ESAFLOR HM 22 (modified by a C22 alkyl chain) sold by the company LAMBERTI; the product MIRACARE XC 95-3 (modified by a C14 alkyl chain) and the product RE 205-146 (modified by a C20 alkyl chain) sold by SOLVAY
[0157] * non-ionic alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses modified by an aliphatic chain in particular in Ci6-C24 such as the products NATROSOL PLUS GRADE 330 CS and POLYSURF 67 (Ci6 alkyl) sold by the company ASHLAND
[0158] * non-ionic nonoxynyl(hydroxy)ethylcelluloses such as the product AMERCELL HM-1500 sold by the company AMERCHOL;
[0159] * non-ionic alkoxycelluloses modified by an aliphatic chain in particular in Ci4-C26 such as the product BERMOCOLL EHM 100, 300, 500 sold by the company Nouryon;
[0160] * poly(hydroxy)alkoxylated celluloses, in particular modified by poly- groups alkylene glycol ether of alkyl phenol, such as the product AMERCELL POLYMER HM-1500 (polyethylene glycol (15) ether of nonyl phenol) sold by the company AMERCHOL.
[0161] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the polysaccharide(s) ii) is (are) derived from plants, and in particular:
[0162] a) seaweed extracts, such as alginates, carrageenans and agars, and mixtures thereof. Examples of carrageenans include Satiagum UTC30® and UTC10® from the company Degussa; examples of alginates include alkali or alkaline earth metal alginates, in particular sodium alginate, in particular that marketed under the name Kelcosol® by the company ISP;
[0163] b) gums such as guar gum and its non-ionic derivatives (hydroxypropylguar), gum arabic, konjac gum or mannan gum, tragacanth gum, gum ghatti, karaya gum or carob gum; by way of example, mention may be made of guar gum marketed under the name Jaguar HP 105® by the company Rhodia; mannan and konjac gum® (1% gluconomannan) marketed by the company GfN;
[0164] c) modified or unmodified starches, such as those obtained for example from cereals such as wheat, corn or rice, from legumes such as golden peas, from tubers such as potatoes or cassava, and tapioca starches; dextrins, such as corn dextrins; by way of example, mention may in particular be made of Remy DR I® rice starch marketed by the company Remy; B® corn starch from the company Roquette; potato starch modified with 2-chloroethylaminodipropionic acid neutralized with soda, marketed under the name Structure Solanace® by the company National Starch; native tapioca starch powder marketed under the name Tapioca pure® by the company National Starch;
[0165] d) dextrins such as dextrin extracted from corn under the name Index® from the company National Starch;
[0166] e) celluloses and their derivatives, in particular alkylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses; and alkyl hydroxyalkylcelluloses; mention may be made in particular of methylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses and carboxymethylcelluloses. By way of example, mention may be made of stearyl and cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose. As examples of cetyl hydroxyethylcelluloses, mention may be made of Polysurf 67CS® and Natrosol Plus 330® from Aqualon; and mixtures thereof.
[0167] Preferably, the polysaccharide(s) ii) is (are) chosen from algae extracts, gums and cellulose derivatives, and mixtures thereof.
[0168] More preferably, the polysaccharide(s) ü) is (are) chosen from agars, carob gum, konjac mannan gum, (C 10 -C 20)alkyl hydroxyethylcelluloses, in particular cetyl or stearyl, and tapioca starches.
[0169] According to one embodiment of the invention, the polysaccharide(s) ii) is (are) chosen from algae extracts and in particular alginates, carrageenans, agars and mixtures thereof. Preferably, alginates or agars, or mixtures thereof, will be used.
[0170] According to another embodiment of the invention, the polysaccharide(s) ii) is (are) chosen from gums, such as guar gums, arabic gums, mannan gums and konjac gums, carob gums, and mixtures thereof.
[0171] According to another embodiment of the invention, the polysaccharide(s) ii) is (are) chosen from modified or unmodified starches, more particularly chosen from wheat starches, corn starches, rice starches, potato starches, tapioca starches, and mixtures thereof.
[0172] According to another embodiment of the invention, the polysaccharide(s) ii) is (are) chosen from dextrins, such as corn dextrins.
[0173] According to another embodiment, the polysaccharide(s) ii) is (are) chosen from cellulose derivatives. Among the cellulose derivatives, mention may in particular be made of hydroxy(Ci-C3)alkyl cellulose, in particular modified by at least one hydrophobic chain, in particular comprising one or more hydrophobic group(s) containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
[0174] According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic substituent(s) used may be C8-C30 and preferably C10-C22 alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups. Preferably, the hydrophobic substituent(s) according to the present invention may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chains (preferably alkyl groups) C10-C22 and preferably C16-C20, such as cetyl (C16), stearyl (C[8) and behenyl (C20) groups. According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrophobic substituent(s) according to the present invention may be cetyl groups. These cellulose derivatives with hydrophobic substituent(s) according to the present invention may have a viscosity preferably between 100 and 100,000 m.Pa.s and preferably between 200 and 20,000 m.Pa.s, measured at 25°C in a solution containing 1% by weight of a polymer in water, this viscosity being determined in a conventional manner using a Brookfield LVT type viscometer at 6 rpm with a No. 3 spindle. Among the cellulose derivatives with hydrophobic substituent(s) which can be used in the compositions according to the present invention, mention may preferably be made of cetyl hydroxyethylcelluloses marketed under the names Natrosol Plus Grade 330 CS and Polysurf 67 CS (INCI name: cetyl hydroxyethyl- . cellulose) by the company Aqualon / Hercules.
[0175] In one embodiment, the polysaccharide(s) ii) derived from plants may be chosen from non-cellulosic polysaccharides.
[0176] Preferably, the non-ionic polysaccharide(s) ii) is (are) chosen from scleroglucan (or sclerotium) gums, guar gums, xanthan gums, celluloses and their derivatives such as hydroxyethylcelluloses, as well as their mixtures, more preferably is (are) chosen from xanthan gums and scleroglucan (or sclerotium) gums and their mixtures, more preferably from xanthan gums.
[0177] According to a particular embodiment, the polysaccharide(s) ii) of the invention is (are) linear or branched, preferably branched, more particularly comprising the combination of oses chosen from glucose, mannose, and glucuronic acid, associated or not with a (keto)(Ci-C6)alkyl carboxylic acid such as pyruvic acid, more preferably the polysaccharide(s) is (are) chosen from xanthan gums.
[0178] According to one embodiment, the composition comprises one or more polysaccharides ii) chosen from a mixture of xanthan gum and biosaccharide Gum-1.
[0179] The amount of polysaccharide(s) ii) in the composition according to the present invention is particularly at least 0.01% by weight, preferably at least 0.05% by weight, and more preferably at least 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0180] On the other hand, the quantity of polysaccharide(s) ii) in the composition according to the invention is particularly 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0181] In particular, the quantity of polysaccharide(s) ii) in the composition according to the invention ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0182] In particular, the mass ratio of ingredients i) / ii) is greater than or equal to 1, more particularly greater than or equal to 2, even more particularly greater than or equal to 3.
[0183] According to a particular embodiment, the mass ratio of ingredients i) / ii) is between 1 and 20, more particularly between 2 and 15, preferably between 3 and 10, better still 3.4 to 9, more specifically between 7 and 9. iii) the coloring matter(s)
[0184] By "coloring matter" is meant all compounds which absorb into the visible spectrum, in particular so as to appear to the human eye as a color such as yellow, orange, red, violet, blue, green, brown or black. Excluded are colorless compounds, i.e. those which appear to the eye in the solid state and in solution as colorless, transparent, or white.
[0185] As visual color and absorption wavelength associated with said color, the following colors may be cited: "yellow" = Xmax greater than 400 nm up to and including 440 nm, "orange" = Xmax greater than 440 nm up to and including 490 nm, "red" = Xmax greater than 490 to up to and including 520 nm, "purple" = Xmax greater than 520 nm and 560 nm, "violet" = Xmax greater than 560 nm to 580 nm, "blue" = Xmax greater than 580 nm up to and including 620 nm, "blue-green" = Xmax greater than 620 nm up to and including 650 nm, and "green" = Xmax greater than 650 nm up to and including 780 nm.
[0186] Preferably, the composition of the invention comprises at least one coloring material chosen from pigments, anionic, cationic, zwitterionic, neutral, non-fluorescent or fluorescent direct dyes, and mixtures thereof, more preferably pigments. These coloring materials may be combined with surfactants x), preferably non-ionic, as defined below. Pigments
[0187] According to one embodiment, the composition comprises as coloring material(s) iii) one or more pigment(s).
[0188] For the purposes of the invention, the term "pigment" means all compounds capable of providing color to keratin materials. These compounds have a solubility in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) of less than 0.05% by weight, and preferably less than 0.01% by weight.
[0189] As pigments suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of organic and / or mineral pigments known in the art, in particular those described in Kirk-Othmer's encyclopedia of chemical technology and in Ullmann's encyclopedia of industrial chemistry.
[0190] These pigments can be synthetic or natural.
[0191] These pigments can be in the form of powder or pigment paste.
[0192] They can be coated or uncoated.
[0193] These pigments can for example be chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments, lakes, special effect pigments such as mother-of-pearl or glitter, and mixtures thereof.
[0194] A pigment suitable for the invention may be chosen from mineral pigments.
[0195] By “mineral pigment” is meant any pigment which meets the definition of Ullmann's encyclopedia in the inorganic pigment chapter. Among the mineral pigments useful in the present invention, mention may be made of manganese violet, blue ultramarine, chromium hydrate, ferric blue and oxides or dioxides of titanium, zirconium or cerium, as well as oxides of zinc, iron or chromium.
[0196] It may also be a pigment having a structure which may be, for example, of the sericite / brown iron oxide / titanium dioxide / silica type. Such a pigment is marketed, for example, under the reference Coverleaf NS or JS by the company Chemicals And Catalysts and has a contrast ratio close to 30. It may also be pigments having a structure which may be, for example, of the silica microspheres containing iron oxide type. An example of a pigment having this structure is that marketed by the company Miyoshi under the reference PC Bail PC-LL-100 P, this pigment being made up of silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide.
[0197] Advantageously, the pigments may be iron oxides and / or titanium dioxides.
[0198] A pigment suitable for the invention may be chosen from organic pigments.
[0199] By "organic pigment" is meant any pigment that meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the organic pigment chapter. Among the organic pigments useful in the present invention, mention may be made of nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, quinoline, anthraquinone, triphenylmethane, fluorane, phthalocyanine, metal complex dyes, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, indigo, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane and quinophthalone.
[0200] In particular, the colored organic pigments may be chosen from carmine, carbon black (or charcoal), aniline black, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, triarylmethane blue, blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 74100, 74160, yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11660, 11680, 11710, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, and in particular Pigment YELLOW 5 (C.1.11660 and CAS 4106-67-6,326.31), the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 45370, 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indolic, phenolic derivatives as described in patent FR 2 679 771. .
[0201] By way of example, mention may also be made of organic pigment pigment pastes such as the products sold by the company HOECHST under the name: COSMENYL YELLOW IOG: Pigment YELLOW 3 (CI 11710); COSMENYL YELLOW G: Pigment YELLOW 1 (CI 11680); COSMENYL ORANGE GR: Pigment ORANGE 43 (CI 71105); COSMENYL RED R: Pigment RED 4 (CI 12085); CARMINE COSMENYL FB: Pigment RED 5 (CI 12490); VIOLET COSMENYL RL: Pigment VIOLET 23 (CI 51319); COSMENYL BLUE A2R: Pigment BLUE 15.1 (CI 74160); COSMENYL GREEN GG: Pigment GREEN 7 (CI 74260); COSMENYL BLACK R: Pigment BLACK 7 (CI 77266).
[0202] More preferably, the pigment(s) of the invention are chosen from carbon black, iron oxides, in particular yellow, red and black and micas coated with iron oxide, triarylmethane pigments, in particular blue and violet, in particular Blue 1 and BLUE 1 LAKE, azo pigments, in particular yellow and red, more particularly D&C RED 33 and D&C Yellow 5, the alkali metal salt of lithol red, in particular the calcium salt of lithol red B, and even more preferably from red iron oxides, yellow iron oxides and azo pigments, in particular red, more particularly D&C RED 33 and D&C Yellow 5.
[0203] The pigments in accordance with the invention may also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments may be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core, at least one binder ensuring the fixing of the organic pigments on the core, and at least one organic pigment at least partially covering the core.
[0204] The organic pigment can also be a lake.
[0205] By “lake” is meant dyes adsorbed on insoluble particles, the whole thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.
[0206] The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium and sodium borosilicate or calcium and aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum. Among the dyes adsorbed on organic substrates, carminic acid may be mentioned.
[0207] Mention may also be made of the dyes known under the following names: D & C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D & C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D & C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D & C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D & C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D & C Green (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 1 O (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D & C Blue 1 (CI 42 090), FDC Red 4, D & C Red 6, D&C Red 22, D&C Red 28, D&C Red 30, D&C Red 33 (CI 17200), D&C Orange 4, D&C Yellow 8, D&C Green 5, D&C Red 17, D&C Green 6, D&C Yellow 11, D&C Violet 2, Sudan Red, Carotenes (b-carotene, lycopene), Xanthophylls (capsanthin, cap-sorubin, lutein), Palm Oil, Sudan Brown, Quinoline Yellow, Annatto, Curcumin, Betanin (Beetroot), Carmine, Copper Chlorophyllin, Methylene Blue, Anthocyanins (Enocyanin, Black Carrot, Hibiscus, Elderberry), Caramel, Riboflavin,beetroot juice and caramel.
[0208] As examples of lacquers, mention may be made in particular of the products known under the names D & C Red and Yellow, and preferably D & C Red 33 (CI 17 200), and D & C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), and D & C Blue and preferably D & C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).
[0209] The pigment may also be a special effects pigment.
[0210] By "special effect pigments" is meant pigments which generally create a colored appearance (characterized by a certain shade, a certain liveliness and a certain clarity) which is non-uniform and changes depending on the observation conditions (light, temperature, observation angles, etc.). They are thus opposed to colored pigments which provide a conventional uniform opaque, semi-transparent or transparent shade.
[0211] There are several types of special effect pigments, those with a low refractive index such as fluorescent or photochromic pigments, and those with a higher refractive index such as pearlescent pigments, interference pigments or glitter.
[0212] The size of the pigment used in the composition according to the present invention is generally between 10 nm and 200 qm, preferably between 20 nm and 80 qm, and more preferably between 30 nm and 50 qm.
[0213] The pigments may be dispersed in the composition using a dispersing agent.
[0214] This dispersing agent may be a surfactant, an oligomer, a polymer or a mixture of several of them, carrying one or more functionalities having a strong affinity for the surface of the particles to be dispersed. In particular, they may attach physically or chemically to the surface of the pigments. These dispersants also have at least one functional group that is compatible or soluble in the continuous medium.In particular, esters of 12-hydroxystearic acid in particular and of C8 to C2o fatty acid and polyol such as glycerol, diglycerin, such as poly(12-hydroxystearic acid) stearate with a molecular weight of approximately 750 g / mol such as that sold under the name Solsperse 21 000 by the company Avecia, poly-lygyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (CTFA name) sold under the reference Dehymyls PGPH by the company Henkel or polyhydroxystearic acid such as that sold under the reference Arlacel P100 by the company Uniqema and their mixtures are used. As another dispersant that can be used in the compositions of the invention, mention may be made of quaternary ammonium derivatives of polycondensed fatty acids such as Solsperse 17 000 sold by the company Avecia, poly dimethylsiloxane / oxypropylene mixtures such as those sold by the company Dow Corning under the references DC2-5185, DC2-5225 C.The pigments used in the composition may be surface-treated with an organic agent. According to a particular embodiment, the dispersing agent(s) are of the amino-silicone type, different from the alkoxysilanes previously described and are cationic. Preferably, the pigment(s) is(are) chosen from. mineral, mixed mineral-organic or organic pigments.
[0215] According to a particular embodiment, the pigment(s) according to the invention are organic pigments, preferably organic pigments surface-treated with an organic agent chosen from silicone compounds.
[0216] According to another embodiment of the invention, the pigment(s) according to the invention are mineral pigments.
[0217] Direct Dyes
[0218] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the coloring material(s) iii) is (are) chosen from one or more direct dye(s).
[0219] By "direct dye" is meant natural and / or synthetic dyes, different from oxidation dyes. These are dyes which will diffuse superficially on the fiber. They can be ionic or non-ionic, preferably cationic or non-ionic.
[0220] Among the direct dyes suitable for the invention, mention may be made of azo direct dyes; (poly)methine dyes such as cyanines, hemicyanines and styryls; carbonyl dyes; azine dyes; nitro(hetero)aryl dyes; tri(hetero)arylmethane dyes; porphyrin dyes; phthalocyanine dyes and natural direct dyes, alone or in the form of mixtures.
[0221] According to a particular embodiment, the coloring material(s) is (are) chosen from direct dyes.
[0222] According to one variant, the direct dye(s) may be chosen from anionic direct dyes.
[0223] The anionic direct dyes of the invention are dyes commonly called “acid” direct dyes for their affinity with alkaline substances.
[0224] By "anionic direct dyes" is meant any direct dye comprising in its structure at least one CO2R' or SO3R' substituent with R' denoting a hydrogen atom or a cation originating from a metal or an amine, or an ammonium ion.
[0225] The anionic direct dyes may be chosen from acid nitrated direct dyes, acid azo dyes, acid azine dyes, acid tria-rylmethane dyes, acid indoamine dyes, acid anthraquinone dyes, indigoids and acid natural dyes.
[0226] Among the natural direct dyes that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of lawsone, juglone, alizarin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechaldehyde, indigo, isatin, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidin, orceins. Extracts or decoctions containing these natural dyes and in particular poultices or extracts based on henna may also be used.
[0227] According to one embodiment of the invention, the direct dyes are chosen from anionic direct dyes.
[0228] More particularly, the keratin material(s) is(are) chosen from pigments, in particular organic pigments, such as nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, quinoline, anthraquinone, triphenylmethane, fluorane, phthalocyanine, metal complex type compounds, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, indigo, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane and quinophthalone.
[0229] In particular, the colored organic pigments may be chosen from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11660, 11680, 11710, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, and in particular Pigment YELLOW 5 (CI 11660 and CAS 4106-67-6, 326.31), the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 45370, 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indolic, phenolic derivatives.
[0230] Preferably the composition of the invention comprises one or more pigments, preferably black such as carbon black; yellow such as D&C Yellow 5; red such as D&C Red 33, and / or blue such as D&C Blue 1.
[0231] More particularly, the composition of the invention comprises at least one coloring matter iii), particulate or not, water-soluble or not, at a rate of at least 0.00001% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0232] For obvious reasons, this quantity is likely to vary significantly with regard to the intensity of the desired color effect and the color intensity provided by the coloring materials considered and its adjustment clearly falls within the skills of those skilled in the art.
[0233] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the coloring material(s) iii), preferably the pigments, is / are present in concentrations ranging from 0.00001% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.00005% to 0.5% by weight, more particularly from 0.0001% to 0.05% by weight, more particularly between 0.0001% and 0.03% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0234] The cosmetic environment:
[0235] The composition is preferably cosmetic, i.e. it comprises a physiologically acceptable medium.
[0236] “Physiologically acceptable medium” means a medium suitable for being applied to keratin materials, also called formula support, which is a cosmetic or pharmaceutical medium generally consisting of water or a mixture of water and one or more organic solvents or a mixture of organic solvents.
[0237] The composition of the invention further comprises water iv).
[0238] According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises water in a content of inclusively between 0.5% and 99.9% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more particularly between 5% and 95% by weight, preferably between 10% and 90%, even more preferably between 20% and 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0239] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the quantity of water in the composition is greater than or equal to 10%, more particularly greater than or equal to 20%, preferably greater than or equal to 30%, more preferably greater than or equal to 40%, even more preferably greater than or equal to 50%, better still greater than or equal to 60%, better still greater than or equal to 70%, even better still greater than or equal to 80%.
[0240] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises between 10% and 99.9% by weight of water, more particularly between 20% and 98% by weight of water, 30% and 90% by weight of water, even more particularly between 40% and 95% by weight of water, preferably between 50% and 90% by weight of water, more preferably between 60% and 85% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0241] v) Optionally one or more organic solvent(s)
[0242] By “organic solvent” is meant an organic substance capable of dissolving another substance without chemically modifying it.
[0243] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition further comprises v) one or more organic solvent(s), in particular chosen from: a) C2-C6 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; b) polyols miscible with water at room temperature (25°C), in particular chosen from polyols having in particular from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerin, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, diglycerin, caprylyl glycol (or 1,2-octanediol), butylene glycol; (c) polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, and (d) aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.
[0244] According to a particular embodiment, the composition further comprises one or more polyols, in particular chosen from polyols having in particular from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerin.
[0245] In a preferred embodiment, 4-(3-ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)butan-2-one is used in combination with an effective amount of at least one organic solvent which may be chosen from ethanol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, PEG-8 (polyethylene glycol containing 8 ethylene glycol units), propylene carbonate, dipropylene glycol, 1,2-hexylene glycol, PEG-4. According to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises as organic solvent(s) v) 1,3-propanediol.
[0246] Preferably, the organic solvent(s) v) is (are) chosen from a) and more preferably is (are) chosen from ethanol, glycerin, and caprylyl glycol, and their mixture.
[0247] Preferably, the organic solvent(s) is / are in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferentially ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight.
[0248] The composition of the invention preferably comprises vi) one or more polar protic organic solvent(s), liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, preferably chosen from alcohols comprising from 2 to 10 carbon atoms and from 1 to 6 hydroxyl groups, preferably the solvent is chosen from ethanol, glycerol, caprylyl glycol, butylene glycol, more particularly ethanol and caprylyl glycol.
[0249] For the composition of the invention, water will be preferred and ethanol as organic solvents.
[0250] The organic solvent(s) v) of the invention is (are) preferably present in proportions preferably inclusively between 0.1% and 40% by weight approximately relative to the total weight of the composition, and more preferably between 1% and 20% by weight approximately and even more particularly inclusively between 5% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. vi) Optionally one or more acid(s)
[0251] According to one embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises vi) one or more organic or inorganic acid(s), preferably one or more organic acid(s).
[0252] In particular, the acid(s) vi) is (are) chosen from a) acids of type HX with X representing a halide such as chloride, bromide; b) inorganic or organic sulfonic acids, in particular of formula RS(O)2OH with R representing a linear or branched, cyclic or acyclic, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group, comprising from 1 to 16 carbon atoms, said hydrocarbon group which may be substituted by one or more hydroxy OH, thiol SH, amino NH2, sulfonic -SO3H, phosphonic -PO3H2, or carboxy -CO2H groups, c) inorganic or organic phosphonic acids, in particular of formula R-PO3H2 with R as defined above, and d) carboxylic acids, in particular of formula R-CO2H with R as defined above, preferably chosen from carboxylic acids.
[0253] Preferably the acid(s) vi) is (are) chosen from (poly)(hydroxy)carboxylic acids, in particular of formula R'-C(O)-OH, with R' representing a hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, acyclic or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or non-aromatic, comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups; preferably R' represents a (Ci-C6)alkyl group optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy or carboxy groups or R' represents an aryl group such as benzyl optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy or carboxy groups.
[0254] Preferably the acid(s) vi) is(are) organic and chosen from (poly)(hydroxy)carboxylic and in particular from hydroxy(Ci-C6)alkyl(poly)carboxylic acids such as lactic acid, tartaric acid, or citric acid.
[0255] According to another particular embodiment, the acid(s) vi) is (are) organic chosen from (C6-Cio)aryl(poly)carboxylic acids such as salicylic acid.
[0256] According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises a mixture of acids which are different from each other, organic and inorganic, cyclic and acyclic, saturated and unsaturated. Aromatic and non-aromatic. In particular, the composition comprises at least one hydroxy(Ci-C6)alkyl(poly)carboxylic acid such as lactic acid, tartaric acid, or citric acid and (C6-Ci0)aryl(poly)carboxylic acid such as salicylic acid.
[0257] vii) Optionally one or more alkaline agent(s):
[0258] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition of the invention comprises vii) one or more alkaline agents (also called bases). This agent may be chosen from mineral or organic or hybrid alkaline agents or mixtures thereof.
[0259] The mineral alkaline agent(s) are preferably chosen from ammonia, alkali carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium or potassium carbonates and sodium or potassium bicarbonates, sodium or potassium hydroxides or mixtures thereof.
[0260] According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the alkaline agent(s) are organic amines, i.e. they contain at least one substituted or unsubstituted amino group.
[0261] The organic alkaline agent(s) are more preferably chosen from among the organic amines whose pKb at 25°C is less than 12, and preferably less than 10, even more advantageously less than 6. It should be noted that this is the pKb corresponding to the highest basicity function.
[0262] As hybrid compounds, mention may be made of the salts of the amines cited above with acids vi) as defined above as carbonic acid, hydrochloric acid.
[0263] The organic alkaline agent(s) are, for example, chosen from alkanolamines, oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, amino acids and compounds of the following formula (IV):
[0264] [Chem. 2]
[0265] (IV)
[0266] Formula (IV) in which:
[0267] - W is a divalent C1-C6 alkylene radical optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group or a C1-C6 alkyl radical, and / or optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen or NRU;
[0268] - Rx, R-. Rz R1 and Ru, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C6 alkyl radical or C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl, C1-C6 aminoalkyl.
[0269] Examples of such amines include 1,3 diaminopropane, 1,3 diamino 2 propanol, spermine, spermidine.
[0270] By alkanolamine is meant an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more linear or branched CrC8 alkyl groups carrying one or more hydroxyl radicals.
[0271] Particularly suitable for carrying out the invention are alkanolamines such as mono-, di- or tri-alkanolamines, comprising one to three hydroxyalkyl radicals, identical or not, in C1-C4.
[0272] Among compounds of this type, mention may be made of monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N-dimethylaminoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, tris-hydroxymethyl-aminomethane.
[0273] More particularly, the amino acids which can be used are of natural or synthetic origin, in their L, D or racemic form and comprise at least one acid function chosen more particularly from carboxylic, sulfonic, phosphonic or phosphoric acid functions. The amino acids can be in neutral or ionic form.
[0274] As amino acids which can be used in the present invention, mention may in particular be made of aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine and valine.
[0275] Advantageously, the amino acids are basic amino acids comprising an additional amine function optionally included in a cycle or in a ureido function, notably chosen from histidine, lysine, arginine, omithine, citrulline.
[0276] As hybrid compounds, mention may in particular be made of guanidine carbonate or monoethanolamine hydrochloride.
[0277] The composition of the invention particularly contains one or more alkanolamines, and / or one or more basic amino acids, more advantageously, one or more alkanolamines. Even more particularly the organic amine is monoethanolamine.
[0278] The alkaline agent(s) are preferably mineral. They are particularly chosen from alkali carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium or potassium carbonates and sodium or potassium bicarbonates, sodium or potassium hydroxides or mixtures thereof, more particularly sodium or potassium hydroxides, even more preferably sodium hydroxide.
[0279] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention has a content of alkaline agent(s) ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 1% by weight relative to the weight of said composition. viii) pH:
[0280] The pH of the composition according to the invention is generally between 4 and 10 inclusive. It can be adjusted to the desired value using acidifying or alkaline agents usually used in dyeing keratin fibers or even using conventional buffer systems.
[0281] The pH of the composition is preferably between 4.5 and 8 inclusive, particularly between 5 and 7 and more particularly between 5.2 and 7.5, better still between 5.4 and 6 such as 5.7+ / -0.2.
[0282] Among the acidifying agents, mention may be made of the acids vi) as defined above, for example in particular hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, sulfonic acids.
[0283] Among the alkaline agents (or bases) there may be mentioned the alkaline agents vii) as defined above, in particular the hydroxides of alkali or alkaline-earth metals such as sodium or potassium hydroxides, alkali carbonates, alkanolamines and other alkaline agents as defined below, preferably alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines, preferably sodium or potassium hydroxides, more preferably sodium hydroxide.
[0284] ix) Optionally one or more oil-absorbing or oleo-sorbable particles
[0285] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises ix) one or more oil-absorbing particle(s) also called oleabsorbable or oleosorbable particle(s).
[0286] The oleosorbable particle(s) ix) is (are) capable of absorbing (and / or adsorbing) an oil (i.e. a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure) such as sebum (from the skin).
[0287] If more than one oil absorbent particle(s) is used, it may be the same or different.
[0288] It is preferable that the oil absorbent particle(s) ix) have an oil absorption capacity of 140 ml / 100 g or more, more preferably 250 ml / 100 g or more, even more preferably 400 ml / 100 g or more, even more preferably 600 ml / 100 g or more, even more preferably 800 ml / 100 g or more, and even more preferably 1000 ml / 100 g or more.
[0289] The oil absorbent particle(s) ix) may have an oil absorption capacity of 2200 ml / 100 g or less, preferably 2000 ml / 100 g or less, more preferably 1800 ml / 100 g or less, even more preferably 1600 ml / 100 g or less, g or less, even more preferably 1400 ml / 100 g or less, and even more preferably 1200 ml / 100 g or less.
[0290] Thus, the oleabsorbable particle(s) ix) may have an oil absorption capacity ranging from 140 ml / 100 g to 2200 ml / 100 g, preferably from 250 ml / 100 g to 2000 ml / 100 g, even more preferably from 400 ml / 100 g to 1800 ml / 100 g, even more preferably from 600 ml / 100 g to 1600 ml / 100 g, even more preferably from 800 ml / 100 g to 1400 ml / 100 g, and even more preferably from 1000 ml / 100 g to 1200 ml / 100 g.
[0291] The quantity of oil(s) absorbed (and / or adsorbed) by the oil-absorbing particle(s) ix) can be characterized by measuring the wet point according to the method described below.
[0292] The oil absorption capacity measured at the “wet point”, noted Wp, corresponds to the quantity of oil(s) that must be added to 100 g of particle to obtain a homogeneous paste.
[0293] The quantity of oil(s) absorbed (and / or adsorbed) can be measured according to the method for determining the oil uptake of a powder described in standard ISO 787 / 5-1980. It corresponds to the quantity of oil absorbed / adsorbed on the available surface of the powder, by measuring the Wet Point.
[0294] A quantity m (in grams) of the oleo-absorbable particle ix) of between approximately 0.5 g and approximately 5 g (the quantity depends on the density of the oleo- particle absorbable particle ix), but typically 2 g) is placed on a glass plate and the isononyl isononanoate (oil) is then added dropwise. After adding 4 to 5 drops of isononyl isononanoate, the isononyl isononanoate is incorporated into the absorbable particle of oil(s) ix) using a spatula, and the addition of the isononyl isononanoate is continued until a conglomerate of isononyl isononanoate and powder has formed. At this point, the isononyl isononanoate is added dropwise and then the mixture is triturated with a spatula. The addition of isononyl isononanoate is stopped when a firm, smooth paste is obtained. This paste should be able to be spread on the glass plate without cracking or forming lumps. We then note the volume Vs (expressed in ml) of isononyl isononanoate used.
[0295] The oil intake corresponds to the Vs / m ratio.
[0296] In the above protocol for determining the Wet Point, the chosen oil: isononyl iso-nonanoate, can be replaced by oleic acid or linseed oil. Unless otherwise defined, the oil absorption capacities defined in the present invention mean those measured using isononyl isononanoate as the reference oil.
[0297] The oil absorbent particle(s) ix) may have a volume average particle size of less than 50 qm, preferably less than 45 qm, and more preferably less than 40 qm. Unless otherwise indicated, particle sizes or average particle sizes defined herein mean volume average particle sizes.
[0298] The oil absorbent particle(s) ix) may have a volume average particle size of 1 qm or more, preferably 2 qm or more, more preferably 3 qm or more, and even more preferably 4 qm or more.
[0299] The (primary) particle size of the oleabsorbable particle(s) viii) may be from 1 to 30 qm, preferably from 2 to less than 25 qm, more preferably from 3 to less than 20 qm, and even more preferably from 4 to less than 15 qm. The (primary) particle size may be measured, for example, by extracting and measuring from a photographic image obtained by scanning electron microscopy (SEM) and the like, using a particle size analyzer such as a laser diffraction particle size analyzer, and the like.
[0300] It is preferable to use a granulometer such as a laser diffraction granulometer. In this case, the (primary) granulometry is the volume average (primary) granulometry.
[0301] It is preferable that the oil absorbent particle(s) ix) is / are a porous particle(s), in particular a porous spherical particle(s).
[0302] According to another aspect of the invention, the oleabsorbable particle(s) ix) may have a BET specific surface area greater than or equal to 300 m2 / g, for example greater than or equal to 500 m2 / g, such as less than or equal to 600 m2 / g, and less than or equal to 1500 m2 / g.
[0303] The oil-absorbing particle(s) ix) may have a density of 0.01 to 0.9 g / cm3, preferably 0.05 to 0.5 g / cm3, and more preferably 0.1 to 0.3 g / cm3.
[0304] The oil absorbent particle(s) ix) may be organic or inorganic.
[0305] According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises one or more oleabsorbable particle(s) ix) inorganic.
[0306] The oleabsorbable inorganic particle(s) ix) may have at least one inorganic core and at least one hydrophobic coating.
[0307] The hydrophobic coating(s) ix) may be formed by a hydrophobic treatment agent chosen in particular from fatty acids such as stearic acid; metallic fatty acid carboxylates such as aluminum dimyristate, aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate; amino acids; N-acylamino acids or their salts; lecithin, fatty acid titanates such as isopropyl triisostearyl titanate, mineral waxes and mixtures thereof.
[0308] The N-acylamino acids preferably comprise an acyl group containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, or cocoyl. The salts of these compounds are in particular salts of oxidation metals I, II, or III, such as aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts.
[0309] The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.
[0310] The term “alkyl” mentioned in the compounds cited above designates in particular an alkyl group, linear or branched, containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably containing from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.
[0311] It is preferable that the inorganic oleosorbable particle(s) comprise(s) at least one material chosen from silica, in particular hydrophobic silica such as silica silylate, silicate, perlite, boron nitride, alkali or alkaline earth metal carbonates such as magnesium carbonate, alkali or alkaline earth metal hydroxides such as magnesium hydroxide, kaolin, talc, and mixtures thereof.
[0312] Hydrophobic silica, in particular silica silylate, is in particular made from silica aerogels, i.e. porous materials, obtained by replacing (in particular by drying or other means of evaporating solvent, in particular water) the liquid component of a silica gel with air. They are generally synthesized by a sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then dried, most often by extraction with a supercritical fluid, the most commonly used being supercritical CO2. This type of drying prevents shrinkage of the pores and the material. The sol-gel process and the various drying operations are known to those skilled in the art. For example, the method described in detail in the work by Brinker CJ and Scherer GW, Sol-Gel Science, New York, Academie Press, (1990) can be cited.
[0313] The hydrophobic silica aerogel particle(s) may have a specific surface area per unit weight (SW) ranging from 500 to 1500 m2 / g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m2 / g, and more preferably from 600 to 800 m2 / g, and / or a size, expressed as volume average diameter (D[0.5]), ranging from 1 to 1500 qm, preferably from 1 to 1000 qm, more preferably from 1 to 100 qm, particularly from 1 to 30 qm, even more preferably from 5 to 25 qm, even more preferably from 5 to 20 qm, and even more preferably from 5 to 15 qm.
[0314] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particle(s) may have a size, expressed as volume average diameter (D[0.5]), ranging from 1 to 30 qm, preferably from 5 to 25 qm, more preferably from 5 to 20 qm, and even more preferably from 5 to 15 pm.
[0315] The specific surface area per unit weight can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method, known as the BET (Brunauer-Emmett-Teller) method, described in the scientific publication J. Amer. Chem. Soc., Vol. 60, p. 309 (1938), which corresponds to the international standard ISO 5794 / 1 (Annex D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles considered.
[0316] The sizes of the silica aerogel particle(s) can be measured by static light scattering using a granulometer, for example using a commercial granulometer such as the MasterSizer 2000 from Malvem. The data are processed on the basis of Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is accurate for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is described in particular in the scientific work by Van de Hulst, HC, "Light Scattering by Small P article s", Chap. 9 and 10, Wiley, New York (1957).
[0317] According to an advantageous embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particle(s) may have a specific surface area per unit weight (SW) ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g and a size, expressed as volume average diameter (D[0.5]), ranging from 5 to 20 qm, and preferably from 5 to 15 qm.
[0318] The silica aerogel particle(s) may advantageously have a packed density (r) ranging from 0.04 g / cm3 to 0.10 g / cm3, and preferably from 0.05 g / cm3 to 0.08 g / cm3.
[0319] In the context of the present invention, this density, called tamped density, can be measured according to the following protocol: 40 g of powder are poured into a graduated cylinder. The cylinder is then placed on a Stampf Stav 2003 device Volumeter; then subjected to a series of 2500 tampings or tampings (this operation is repeated until the difference in volume between 2 consecutive tests is less than 2%). The final volume Vf of tamped powder is then measured directly on the graduated cylinder. The tamped density is determined by the ratio w / Vf, in this case 40 / Vf (Vf being expressed in cm3 and w in g).
[0320] According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles may have a specific surface area per unit volume SV ranging from 5 to 60 m2 / cm3, preferably from 10 to 50 m2 / cm3, and more preferably from 15 to 40 m2 / cm3.
[0321] The specific surface area per unit volume is given by the relation: SV = SW xp; where p is the compacted density expressed in g / cm3 and SW is the specific surface area per unit weight expressed in m2 / g, as defined above.
[0322] By "hydrophobic silica" is meant any silica whose surface is treated with silylating agents, for example with halogenated silanes, such as halosilanes, in particular alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes, such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with silyl groups -Si(R')3 with R', identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, acyclic or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or non-aromatic, comprising from 1 to 14 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen, preferably the hydrocarbon group is chosen from (C i-C6)alkyl, aryl such as phenyl, and aryl(Ci-C6)alkyl such as benzyl, preferably R' represents a (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl.
[0323] With regard to the preparation of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles surface-modified by silylation, reference may be made to document US 7,470,725.
[0324] In particular, hydrophobic silica aerogel particles modified on the surface by -Si(R')3 groups as defined above, preferably tri-methylsilyl, will be used.
[0325] Examples of inorganic oil-absorbing particle(s) include the fillers described below:
[0326] As silica powders, mention may be made of amorphous silica microspheres coated with polydimethylsiloxane, in particular those marketed under the name SA Sunsphere® H33 (oil uptake equal to 243 ml / 100 g), precipitated silica powders surface-treated with a mineral wax, such as precipitated silica treated with a polyethylene wax, and in particular those marketed under the name Acematt OR 412 by the company Evonik-Degussa (oil uptake equal to 398 ml / 100 g), Sunsphere® 12 (isononyl isononanoate oil uptake equal to 140.6 ml / 100 g) from the company AGC Si-Tech, and silica silylate marketed under the name VM-2270 (isononyl isononanoate oil uptake equal to 1090 ml / 100 g) by the company Dow Company Corning.
[0327] As silica powders, mention may be made of porous silica microspheres, in particular those marketed under the names Sunsphere® H53 and Sunsphere® H33 (oil uptake equal to 370 ml / 100 g) by the company Asahi Glass; MSS-500-3H by the company Kobo; hollow amorphous silica particles, in particular those marketed under the name Silica Shells by the company Kobo (oil uptake equal to 550 ml / 100 g); the porous silica microsphere marketed under the name Sylysia 350 (oil uptake equal to 310 ml / 100 g) by the company Fuji Silysia Chemical; and silica powder marketed under the name Finesil X35 (oil uptake equal to 380 ml / 100 g) by the company Oriental Silicas.
[0328] As perlite powders, we can cite perlite sold under the name of
[0329] Optimat® 1430 OR and Optimat® 2550 OR (isononyl isononanoate oil intake equal to 250 ml / 100 g) by the company World Minerais, and
[0330] Perlite-MSZ12 (isononyl isononanoate oil absorption equal to 148.2 ml / 100 g) by Miyoshi Kasei Company.
[0331] As silicate, we can notably cite aluminum silicate which is marketed under the name Kyowaad® 700PEL (oil uptake equal to 195 ml / 100 g) by the company Kyowa Chemical Industry.
[0332] As magnesium carbonate powder, we can notably cite the product marketed under the name Tipo Carbomagel® by the company Buschle & Lepper (oil intake equal to 214 ml / 100 g).
[0333] As magnesium carbonate / magnesium hydroxide powder, mention may be made in particular of the product mMgCO3-Mg(OH)2-nH2O which is marketed under the name Mg Tube (oil intake equal to 250-310 ml / 100 g) by the company Nittesu Mining.
[0334] It is also preferred to use as oleosorbable inorganic particle, silica silylate marketed under the name VM-2270 by the company Dow Corning, the particles of which have an average size ranging from 5 to 15 microns and a specific surface area per unit weight ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g.
[0335] According to another embodiment of the invention, the oleabsorbable particle(s) ix) is (are) organic.
[0336] The oleosorbable organic particle(s) ix) may comprise at least one material chosen from a) polyamide powders (in particular Nylon-6), b) powders of (Ci-C6)(alkyl)acrylic polymers as well as their alcohol esters, in particular of (poly)hydroxy(Ci-C20)alkane or (poly)hydroxy(Ci-C20)alkene such as methanol, ethanol, ethylene glycol, or allyl alcohol, in particular polymethyl methacrylate, polymethyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, polyallyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer; c) silicones; and d) the mixture from a) to d). The above material(s) may be crosslinked.
[0337] It may be preferable for the oleosorbable organic particle(s) ix) to be chosen from acrylic polymer powders, in particular ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer, acrylate copolymer, methyl methacrylate copolymer and silicone resins.
[0338] The oleosorbable organic particle(s) ix) may, if necessary, be surface-treated with at least one hydrophobic treatment agent.
[0339] According to one embodiment, this hydrophobic treatment agent is chosen from:
[0340] - silicones such as methicones and dimethicones;
[0341] - fatty acids, in particular fatty acids comprising from 12 to 22 atoms of carbon, such as stearic acid;
[0342] - carboxylates of metals, in particular aluminum, such as dimyristate aluminum and the aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate;
[0343] - perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoroalkyl silanes, perfluoroalkyl silazanes, polyhexafluoropropylene oxides and polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups;
[0344] - amino acids, N-acylated amino acids and their salts;
[0345] - lecithin, and isopropyl triisostearyl titanate; and
[0346] - their mixtures.
[0347] The term "alkyl" mentioned in the compounds cited above means a linear, branched, acyclic or cyclic alkyl group, comprising from 1 to 30 atoms, more particularly comprising from 2 to 16, more particularly between 4 and 10 carbon atoms, better still between 5 and 6 carbon atoms. Preferably the term "alkyl" mentioned in the compounds above means an acyclic, linear or branched alkyl group, comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, more particularly from 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as methyl.
[0348] The N-acylamino acids preferably comprise an acyl group containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, or cocoyl. The salts of these compounds are in particular salts of oxidation metals I, II, or III, such as aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts. The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.
[0349] Examples of oil-absorbing organic particles ix) include the fillers described below:
[0350] As acrylic polymer powders, mention may be made of porous spheres made of polymethyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate marketed under the name Microsponge 5640 by the company Cardinal Health Technologies (oil intake equal to 155 ml / 100 g), vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer sold under the name KSP 100 (isononyl isononanoate oil uptake equal to 142.7 ml / 100 g) by Shin Etsu. Ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate crosslinked copolymer powders, including those sold under the name Polytrap® 6603 by Amcol Health & Beauty Solutions (isononyl isononanoate oil uptake equal to 657 ml / 100 g), and acrylonitrile / methyl methacrylate / vinylidene chloride copolymer sold under the name EXPANCEL 551DE40D42 (isononyl isononanoate oil uptake equal to 1387 ml / 100 g) by Akzo Novel.
[0351] As polyamide powders, mention may be made of nylon-6 powder, in particular the product marketed under the name PompôlO by the company UBE Industries (oil uptake equal to 202 ml / 100 g).
[0352] According to one embodiment of the invention, the quantity of oleosorbable particle(s) ix) in the composition is at least 0.01% by weight, preferably at least 0.05% by weight, and more preferably at least 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0353] On the other hand, the quantity of oleosorbable particle(s) ix) in the composition according to the invention is particularly at most 10% by weight, preferably at most 5% by weight, and more preferably at most 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0354] The quantity of oleosorbable particle(s) ix) in the composition according to the invention particularly ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0355] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention is either in the form of a direct emulsion, i.e. of the water-in-oil (O / W) or “oil-in-water (O / W)” type, or in the form of an inverse emulsion, i.e. of the water-in-oil (W / O) or “water-in-oil (W / O)” type, or in the form of a multiple oil-in-water-in-oil (O / W / O) or “oil-in-water-in-oil (O / W / O)” emulsion, or in the form of a microemulsion.
[0356] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition is in direct emulsion, i.e. of the water-in-oil (O / W) type.
[0357] According to another embodiment of the invention, the composition is in an inverse emulsion, i.e. of the water-in-oil (W / O) type.
[0358] According to another embodiment of the invention, the composition of the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water-in-oil (O / W / O) multiple emulsion.
[0359] According to one embodiment, the composition is in the form of a microemulsion.
[0360] By "microemulsion" is meant an H / W, W / H, or H / W / H emulsion, preferably whose (average) particle (or micelles) diameter is less than or equal to 300 nm, preferably less than or equal to 100 nm, more particularly less than or equal to 50 nm, better still less than or equal to 30 nm, even better still less than or equal to 20 nm. Particularly the (average) diameter of the particles is between 1 and 300 nm, more particularly between 2 nm and 100 nm, preferably between 3 and 50 nm, more preferably between 4 and 30 nm, even more preferably between 5 and 20 nm.
[0361] More preferably, the microemulsion of the invention comprises v) one or more polar protic organic solvent(s), liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, preferably chosen from alcohols comprising from 2 to 10 carbon atoms and from 1 to 6 hydroxyl groups, preferably the solvent is chosen from ethanol, glycerol, caprylyl glycol, butylene glycol, more particularly butylene glycol and caprylyl glycol.
[0362] In the case of emulsions and microemulsions, the composition preferably comprises one or more surfactants x), preferably non-ionic; and one or more fatty substances xi), preferably oils.
[0363] Preferably, the composition of the invention is an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion. More preferably, the composition of the invention is not a microemulsion. In particular, the composition of the invention is in the form of a gel.
[0364] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition is in the form of an emulsified gel of the oil / water (O / W) type.
[0365] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition is in the form of an emulsified gel of the water-in-oil (W / O) type.
[0366] By "emulsified gel" is meant that the composition of the invention is characterized by a gelled network in which fine droplets (O / W, W / O emulsion) are suspended, thus forming an emulsified gel of the O / W or W / O type. x) Optionally one or more surfactants
[0367] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition further comprises x) one or more surfactants. The surfactant(s) may be non-ionic, anionic, cationic, zwitterionic or amphoteric, preferably the surfactant(s) are non-ionic or anionic.
[0368] Among the non-ionic surfactants according to the invention, mention may be made, alone or in mixtures, of a) fatty alcohols, b) alpha-diols, c) alkylphenols, these 3 types of compounds a) to c) being polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated and / or polyglycerolated, and having a fatty chain comprising, for example, 8 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular comprising 10 to 22 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups being able to range in particular from 2 to 200, in particular from 10 to 100 and the number of glycerol groups being able to range in particular from 2 to 200, in particular from 10 to 100. Mention may also be made of copolymers of ethylene oxide (EO) and propylene (OP), condensates of ethylene and propylene oxide on fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 moles EO, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular 1.5 to 4; oxyethylenated sorbitan fatty acid esters having from 2 to 200 moles EO, in particular from 10 to 100 EO; sucrose fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, alkylpolyglycosides, N-alkylglucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (Ci0-Ci4)alkylamine oxides or N-acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides.
[0369] Preferably, the surfactant(s) is(are) non-ionic and is(are) chosen from: (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols; glycerolated fatty alcohols; alkylpolyglycosides. preferably mono and diesters of oxyethylenated sorbitan fatty acids having from 2 to 200 moles EO, in particular from 10 to 100 EO.
[0370] More preferably, the surfactants are chosen from mono and diesters of oxyethylenated sorbitan fatty acids having from 2 to 200 moles EO, in particular from 10 to 100 EO such as propylene glycol stearate having from 10 to 30 EO such as 20 EO; glyceryl mono distearate / polyethylene glycol stearate (100 EO), preferably glyceryl mono ester of C6-C30 fatty acid. Preferably, the surfactant(s) x) is (are) chosen from Polyglyceryl 2 isostearate, preferably C10-C24, such as polyglyceryl-10 stearate, polyglyceryl-10 myristate.
[0371] By fatty chain is meant a hydrocarbon chain comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, such as (iso)stearyl.
[0372] As regards alkylpolyglycosides, these compounds are well known and can be more particularly represented by the following general formula (III):
[0373] R1O-(R2O)t (G)v (III)
[0374] Formula (III) in which:
[0375] - R1 represents a linear or branched alkyl and / or alkenyl radical comprising approximately 8 to 24 carbon atoms, an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical contains 8 to 24 carbon atoms;
[0376] - R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising approximately 2 to 4 carbon atoms;
[0377] - G represents a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms;
[0378] -1 denotes an integer between 0 and 10 inclusive, preferably between 0 and 4, preferably between 0 and 4; and
[0379] - v denotes an integer between 1 and 15 inclusive.
[0380] Preferred alkylpolyglycosides according to the present invention are compounds of formula (III) in which R1 more particularly denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3 and more particularly still equal to 0, G can denote the glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose. The degree of polymerization, i.e. the value of v in formula (III), may range from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4. The average degree of polymerization is more particularly between 1 and 2 and even more preferably from 1.1 to 1.5.
[0381] The glycosidic bonds between the sugar units are of the 1-6 or 1-4 type and preferably 1-4.
[0382] Compounds of formula (III) are notably represented by the products sold by the company COGNIS under the names PLANTAREN® (600 CS / U, 1200 and 2000) or PLANT AC ARE® (818, 1200 and 2000). It is also possible to use the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the names TRITON CG 110 (or ORAMIX CG 110) and TRITON CG 312 (or ORAMIX® NS 10), the products sold by the company BASF under the name LUTENSOL GD 70 or those sold by the company CHEM Y under the name AGIO LK.
[0383] It is also possible to use, for example, C8 / Ci6 Alkyl polyglucoside 1,4 in 53% aqueous solution marketed by COGNIS under the reference PLANTACARE® 818 UP.
[0384] As regards mono or polyglycerolated surfactants, they preferably comprise on average from 1 to 40 glycerol groups, more particularly from 10 to 30 glycerol groups such as 20.
[0385] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the surfactants are mono-glycerolated or polyglycerolated and are preferably chosen from the compounds of the following formulas:
[0386] R3O[CH2CH(CH2OH)O]mH,
[0387] R3O[CH2CH(OH)CH2O]mH or
[0388] R3O[CH(CH2OH)CH2O]mH ;
[0389] Formulas in which:
[0390] - R3 represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms and preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms
[0391] - m is a number between 1 and 30, preferably between 1 and 10, more particu mainly from 1.5 to 6;
[0392] it being understood that R3 may be substituted, and / or interrupted by one or more heteroatoms such as O, N, or groups chosen from hydroxy, amide and ester.
[0393] R3 preferably represents a C10-C20 alkyl and / or alkenyl group, optionally mono or polyhydroxylated, more particularly R3 represents a C10-C24 alkyl group such as myristyl, or lauryl.
[0394] Preferably, the composition of the invention comprises one or more (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols suitable for implementing the invention are more particularly chosen from alcohols containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0395] The (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols more particularly have one or more hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.
[0396] The (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohol(s) preferably have the following formula:
[0397] Ra-[O-CH2-CH2]n-OH
[0398] Formula with
[0399] - Ra representing a linear or branched CrC4o alkyl group, or linear alkenyl or branched in C2-C30 (preferably C8-C30 alkyl); and
[0400] - n represents an integer between 1 and 200 inclusive, preferably between 2 and 100, more particularly inclusively between 10 and 50, even more particularly inclusively between 15 and 30 such as 100 or 20.
[0401] The (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols are more particularly fatty alcohols comprising from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and oxyethylenated by 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide (1 to 100 EO). Among them, mention may be made more particularly of lauryl alcohol 20 EO, lauryl alcohol 30 EO, decyl alcohol 3 EO, decyl alcohol 5 EO and oleyl alcohol 20 EO.
[0402] Mixtures of these (poly)oxyethylenated fatty alcohols can also be used.
[0403] Among the non-ionic surfactants, C6-C24 alkyl poly- glucosides and (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols and more particularly C8-C16 alkyl polyglucosides are used.
[0404] The amount of non-ionic surfactants preferably ranges from 0.05% to 20% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and more particularly from 1 to 5% by weight, better still between 2 and 4.5% relative to the total weight of the composition of the invention. In particular, the amount of surfactant is less than 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0405] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises one or more anionic surfactants.
[0406] The term "anionic surfactant" means a surfactant comprising only anionic groups as ionic or ionizable groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from the groups -C(O)OH, -C(O)O, -SO3 H, -S(O)2O, -OS(O)2OH, -OS(O)2O, -P(O)2OH, -P(O)2O, -P(O)O2, -P(OH)2, =P(O)OH, -P(OH)O, =P(O)O, =POH, =PO, the anionic parts comprising a cationic counterion such as an alkali metal, an alkaline earth metal, or an ammonium, more preferably the groups are carboxy -C(O)OH, or car- boxylate -C(O)O .
[0407] As examples of anionic surfactants that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of alkylcarboxylic acids, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamidoether sulfates, alkylarylpolyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefinsulfonates, paraffinsulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acyl isethionates and N-acyltaurates, salts of alkyl monoesters and acids polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, salts of alkyl diesters of poly-glycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyllactylates, salts of D-ga-lactoside-uronic acids, salts of alkyl ether-carboxylic acids, salts of alkylaryl ether-carboxylic acids,the salts of alkyl amidoether-carboxylic acids, and the corresponding non-salified forms of all these compounds, the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 22 carbon atoms and the aryl group denoting a phenyl group.
[0408] These compounds can be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.
[0409] The salts of C6-C24 alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids may be chosen from C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates.
[0410] When the anionic surfactant(s) are in salt form, they may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium salt and preferably sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts or alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salts.
[0411] As examples of amino alcohol salts, mention may be made in particular of mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts, mono-, di- or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxy-methyl)amino methane salts.
[0412] Preferably, alkali or alkaline earth metal salts are used, and in particular sodium or magnesium salts.
[0413] Among the anionic surfactants cited, it is preferred to use alkyl(C6-C24)carboxylic acids, in particular alkyl(C10-C20)carboxylic acids, preferably of natural origin, in particular vegetable origin, such as stearic acid, which may be in the form of salts of alkali metals, ammonium, amino alcohols, and alkaline earth metals, or a mixture of these compounds.
[0414] The amount of anionic surfactants preferably ranges from 0.05% to 20% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and more particularly from 1 to 5% by weight, better still between 2 and 4.5%, relative to the total weight of the composition of the invention.
[0415] The amount of surfactants preferably ranges from 0.05% to 30% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and more particularly from 1 to 5% by weight, better still between 2 and 4.5% relative to the total weight of the composition of the invention. In particular, the amount of surfactant is less than 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. xi) Possibly one or more fatty substances
[0416] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition further comprises xi) one or more fatty substances. The fatty substance(s) of the invention xi) are not oxyalkylenated.
[0417] Preferably, the fatty substance(s) of the invention are chosen from hydrocarbons, fatty alcohols, fatty esters, silicones and fatty ethers or mixtures thereof.
[0418] The fatty substances of the invention may be liquid or non-liquid at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg; i.e. 1,013.105 Pa).
[0419] The liquid fatty substances of the invention preferably have a viscosity less than or equal to 2 Pa.s, better still less than or equal to 1 Pa.s and even better still less than or equal to 0.1 Pa.s at a temperature of 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s1.
[0420] By liquid hydrocarbon is meant a hydrocarbon composed solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms which is liquid at ordinary temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg; or 1,013.105 Pa).
[0421] More particularly, the liquid hydrocarbons are chosen from:
[0422] - linear or branched C6-Ci6 alkanes, possibly cyclic. As Examples include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane.
[0423] - linear or branched hydrocarbons, of animal or synthetic mineral origin of more than 16 carbon atoms, such as paraffin oils, vaseline oil, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parléam®, squalane.
[0424] In a preferred variant, the liquid hydrocarbon(s) are chosen from paraffin oils and vaseline oil.
[0425] By liquid fatty alcohol is meant a non-glycerolated and non-oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol which is liquid at ordinary temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg; i.e. 1,013.105 Pa).
[0426] Preferably, the liquid fatty alcohols of the invention comprise from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably in C10-C22, even more preferably in C14-C20, better still in C16-C18.
[0427] The liquid fatty alcohols of the invention may be saturated or unsaturated.
[0428] Saturated liquid fatty alcohols are preferably branched. They can even must include in their structures at least one aromatic or non-aromatic cycle. Preferably, they are acyclic.
[0429] More particularly, the liquid saturated fatty alcohols of the invention are chosen from octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol.
[0430] According to another variant of the invention, the fatty substance(s) are chosen from liquid unsaturated fatty alcohols. These liquid unsaturated fatty alcohols have at least one double or triple bond in their structure. Preferably, the fatty alcohols of the invention have one or more double bonds in their structure. When several double bonds are present, they are preferably 2 or 3 in number and they may or may not be conjugated.
[0431] These unsaturated fatty alcohols can be linear or branched.
[0432] They may optionally comprise in their structures at least one aromatic or non-aromatic cycle. Preferably, they are acyclic.
[0433] More particularly, the liquid unsaturated fatty alcohols of the invention are chosen from oleic (or oleyl) alcohol, linoleic (or linoleyl) alcohol, linolenyl (or linolenyl) alcohol, undecylenic alcohol.
[0434] Oleyl alcohol is particularly preferred.
[0435] By liquid fatty esters is meant an ester derived from a fatty acid and / or a fatty alcohol and liquid at ordinary temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg; i.e. 1,013.105 Pa).
[0436] The esters are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic mono or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic mono or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
[0437] Preferably, for the monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol or acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.
[0438] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate, ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, ethyl-2-hexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, and C10-C22, preferably C[2 -C20] alkyl (iso)stearates such as isopropyl isostearate.
[0439] Esters of C4-C22 di or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols and esters of mono di or tricarboxylic acids and C4-C26 non-sugar di, tri, tetra or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
[0440] We can notably cite: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; di(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; di(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; di(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; trisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononate.
[0441] The composition may also comprise, as liquid fatty ester, esters and diesters of sugars of C6-C30 fatty acids, preferably C[2-C22. It is recalled that the term "sugar" means oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds which have several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone function, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
[0442] Suitable sugars include, for example, sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives, in particular alkylated ones, such as methylated derivatives such as methylglucose.
[0443] The esters of sugars and fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of C6-C30, preferably C12-C22, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.
[0444] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters, polyesters and their mixtures.
[0445] These esters may be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonates, or mixtures thereof, such as in particular the mixed esters oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate, palmito-stearate.
[0446] More particularly, mono- and di-esters are used, and in particular mono- or di-oleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.
[0447] An example of this is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
[0448] Finally, natural or synthetic esters of mono, di or triacids with glycerol can also be used.
[0449] Among these we can cite vegetable oils.
[0450] As oils of vegetable origin or synthetic triglycerides, which can be used in the composition of the invention as liquid fatty esters, we can cite for example:
[0451] - triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, such as triglycerides fatty acid liquids containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor, avocado oils, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil.
[0452] Preferably, liquid fatty esters derived from monoalcohols will be used as esters according to the invention.
[0453] Isopropyl myristate or palmitate are preferred.
[0454] By liquid silicone is meant an organopolysiloxane which is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg; i.e. 1,013.105 Pa).
[0455] Preferably, the silicone is chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.
[0456] These silicones can also be organomodified. The organomodified silicones which can be used in accordance with the invention are liquid silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon group.
[0457] Organopolysiloxanes are further defined in Walter NOLL's "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academie Press. They may be volatile or non-volatile.
[0458] When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C, and more particularly still from:
[0459] (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7, preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These include, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7207 by UNION CARBIDE or SILBIONE® 70045 V2 by RHODIA, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7158 by UNION CARBIDE, and SILBIONE® 70045 V5 by RHODIA, dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the name SILSOFT 1217 by MOMENTIVE PERFORMANCE MATERIALS, or cyclohexadimethylsiloxane and mixtures thereof.
[0460] Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as SILICONE VOLATILE® FZ 3109 marketed by the company UNION CARBIDE, of formula:
[0461] [Chem.3] p D" - D'-------D" - D' —। CH. 1----------------------------1 CH. I ' I with AND: — — with Ü1: - IF — O — ch3
[0462] Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organic compounds derived from silicon, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,r-(hexa-2,2,2',2',3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane.
[0463] (ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes having 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5.10-6 m2 / s at 25 °C. This is, for example, decamethyltetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name "SH 200" by the company TORAY SILICONE. Silicones falling into this class are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, P. 27-32 - TODD & BYERS "Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics". The viscosity of silicones is measured at 25 °C according to ASTM 445 Appendix C.
[0464] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes can also be used.
[0465] These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which we can mainly cite polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups.
[0466] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercial products may be mentioned, without limitation:
[0467] - SILBIONE® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or MIRASIL® oils commer marketed by RHODIA such as, for example, oil 70 047 V 500 000
[0468] - the oils of the MIRASIL® series marketed by the company RHODIA;
[0469] - DOW CORNING company 200 series oils such as DC200 having viscosity 60,000 mm2 / s;
[0470] - VISCASIL® oils from GENERAL ELECTRIC and certain SF series oils (SF 96, SF 18) from GENERAL ELECTRIC.
[0471] Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol end groups known as dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of series 48 from the company RHODIA.
[0472] Among the silicones with aryl groups are polydiaryl siloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkyl-arylsiloxanes. Examples include the products marketed under the following names:
[0473] - SILBIONE® oils from the 70 641 series from RHODIA;
[0474] - oils of the RHODORSIL® 70 633 and 763 series from RHODIA;
[0475] - DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID oil from DOW CORNING;
[0476] - BAYER PK series silicones such as the product PK20;
[0477] - certain oils of the SF series of GENERAL ELECTRIC such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, SF 1265.
[0478] Organomodified liquid silicones may in particular have polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups. Examples include KF-6017 silicone offered by SHIN ETSU and SILWET® L 722, L 77 oils from UNION CARBIDE.
[0479] The liquid fatty ethers are chosen from liquid dialkyl ethers such as dica-prylylether.
[0480] Fatty substances may be non-liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
[0481] By non-liquids is preferably meant a solid compound or a compound having a viscosity greater than 2 Pa.s at a temperature of 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s 1
[0482] More particularly, the non-liquid fatty substances are chosen from fatty alcohols, fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters, non-silicone waxes, silicones, fatty ethers, which are non-liquid and preferably solid.
[0483] The non-liquid fatty alcohols suitable for implementing the invention are more particularly chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably in C10-C22, even more preferably in C14-C20, better still in C16-C18.
[0484] Cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol) are particularly preferred.
[0485] As regards non-liquid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters, mention may in particular be made of solid esters derived from C9-C26 fatty acids and C9-C26 fatty alcohols.
[0486] Among these esters, mention may be made of octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; cetyl lactate; stearyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; myristyl stearate; octyl palmitate; octyl pelargonate; octyl stearate; alkyl myristates such as cetyl, myristyl, stearyl myristate; hexyl stearate, more particularly myristyl myrystate.
[0487] Still within the framework of this variant, it is also possible to use esters of C4-C22 di or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols and esters of mono di or tricarboxylic acids and C2-C26 di, tri, tetra or pentahydroxy alcohols.
[0488] Mention may in particular be made of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; dioctyl maleate.
[0489] Among all the additional esters mentioned above, it is preferred to use myristyl, cetyl, stearyl palmitates, alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, myristyl stearyl myristate.
[0490] The wax or waxes (non-silicone) are chosen in particular from Camauba wax, Candelila wax, and Alfa wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, vegetable waxes such as olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or absolute flower waxes such as blackcurrant flower essential wax sold by the company BERTIN (France), animal waxes such as beeswax, modified beeswax (cerabellina), white beeswax such as those sold by KOSTER KEUNEN; other waxes or waxy raw materials that can be used according to the invention are in particular marine waxes such as that sold by the company SOPHIM under the reference M82, polyethylene or polyolefin waxes in general.
[0491] The non-liquid silicones according to the invention may be in the form of waxes, resins or gums.
[0492] Preferably, the non-liquid silicone is chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and organomodified polysiloxanes comprising at least one functional group chosen from poly(oxyalkylene) groups, amine groups and alkoxy groups.
[0493] The silicone gums that can be used in accordance with the invention are in particular polydialkylsiloxanes, preferably polydimethylsiloxanes having high number-average molecular masses of between 200,000 and 1,000,000, used alone or as a mixture in a solvent. This solvent can be chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane oils (PDMS), polyphenylmethylsiloxane oils (PPMS), isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane, tridecane or mixtures thereof.
[0494] Products which can be used more particularly in accordance with the invention are mixtures such as:
[0495] - mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane hydroxylated at the end of chain, or dimethiconol (CTFA) and a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane also called cyclomethicone (CTFA) such as the product Q2 1401 marketed by the company DOW CORNING;
[0496] - mixtures of a polydimethylsiloxane gum and a cyclic silicone such as the product SF 1214 Silicone Fluid from the company GENERAL ELECTRIC, this product is an SF 30 gum corresponding to a dimethicone, having a molecular weight average number of 500,000 solubilized in SF 1202 Silicone Fluid oil corresponding to decamethylcyclopentasiloxane;
[0497] - mixtures of two PDMS of different viscosities, and more particularly of one PDMS gum and a PDMS oil, such as the SF 1236 product from GENERAL ELECTRIC. The SF 1236 product is the mixture of an SE 30 gum defined above having a viscosity of 20 m2 / s and an SF 96 oil with a viscosity of 5.10 6 m2 / s. This product preferably comprises 15% SE 30 gum and 85% SF 96 oil.
[0498] The organopolysiloxane resins which can be used in accordance with the invention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the following units:
[0499] R2SiO2 / 2, R3SiO1 / 2, RSiO3 / 2 and SiO4 / 2
[0500] Formulas in which:
[0501] R, identical or different, preferably identical, represents an alkyl having 1 to 16 carbon atoms. Among these products, those particularly preferred are those in which R denotes a lower C1-C4 alkyl group, more particularly methyl.
[0502] Among these resins, we can cite the product marketed under the name "DOW CORNING 593" or those marketed under the names "SILICONE FLUID SS 4230 and SS 4267" by the company GENERAL ELECTRIC and which are silicones with a dimethyl / trimethyl siloxane structure.
[0503] Mention may also be made of trimethylsiloxysilicate type resins marketed in particular under the names X22-4914, X21-5034 and X21-5037 by the company SHIN-ETSU.
[0504] Among the additional organomodified silicones, mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes comprising:
[0505] - substituted or unsubstituted amino groups such as the products marketed under the names Q2 8220 and DOW CORNING 929 or 939 by the company DOW CORNING. The substituted amino groups are in particular C1-C4 aminoalkyl groups;
[0506] - alkoxylated groups, such as the product marketed under the name ABIL WAX® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by GOLDSCHMIDT.
[0507] The non-liquid fatty ethers are chosen from dialkyl ethers and in particular di-cetyl ether, and distearyl ether, alone or as a mixture.
[0508] The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more butters, identical or different, preferably of plant origin.
[0509] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the weight content of the butter(s) according to the invention, in C16 fatty acids of the triglycerides, expressed relative to the total fatty acids of the triglycerides, is less than 23%.
[0510] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "butter" (also called "pasty fatty body") means a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid / liquid state change and comprising, at a temperature of 25°C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction, and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). In other words, the starting melting temperature of the pasty compound may be less than 25°C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 25°C may represent 9 to 97% by weight of the compound. This liquid fraction at 25°C preferably represents between 15 and 85%, more preferably between 40 and 85% by weight.
[0511] Preferably, the butter(s) have an end of melting temperature of less than 60°C.
[0512] Preferably, the butter(s) have a hardness less than or equal to 6 MPa.
[0513] Preferably, the pasty fatty substances have in the solid state an organization anisotropic crystalline, visible by X-ray observations.
[0514] For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in the ISO 11357-3; 1999 standard. The melting point of a paste or a wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "DSC Q2000" by the company TA Instruments.
[0515] Regarding the measurement of the melting temperature and the determination of the end of melting temperature, the sample preparation and measurement protocols are as follows:
[0516] A sample of 5 mg of pasty fatty substance previously heated to 80°C and taken under magnetic stirring using a spatula also heated is placed in a hermetic aluminum capsule, or crucible. Two tests are carried out to ensure the reproducibility of the results.
[0517] The measurements are carried out on the calorimeter mentioned above. The furnace is subjected to a nitrogen sweep. Cooling is ensured by the RCS 90 heat exchanger. The sample is then subjected to the following protocol by first being brought to a temperature of 20 °C, then subjected to a first temperature rise from 20 °C to 80 °C, at a heating rate of 5 °C / minute, then cooled from 80 °C to - 80 °C at a cooling rate of 5 °C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -80 °C to 80 °C at a heating rate of 5 °C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation in the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the butter sample as a function of the temperature is measured.The melting point of the compound is the temperature value corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation of the difference in absorbed power as a function of temperature.
[0518] The end of melting temperature corresponds to the temperature at which 95% of the sample has melted.
[0519] The liquid fraction by weight of butter at 25°C is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 25°C to the enthalpy of fusion of the butter.
[0520] The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is the enthalpy consumed by the compound to pass from the solid state to the liquid state. Butter is said to be in the solid state when its entire mass is in crystalline solid form. Butter is said to be in the liquid state when its entire mass is in liquid form.
[0521] The enthalpy of fusion of butter is equal to the integral of the entire melting curve obtained using the above-mentioned calorimeter, with a temperature rise of 5 or 10 °C per minute, according to ISO 11357-3:1999. The enthalpy of fusion of butter is the quantity of energy required to change the compound from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g.
[0522] The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 25°C is the quantity of energy absorbed by the sample to pass from the solid state to the state it presents at 25°C consisting of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
[0523] The liquid fraction of the butter measured at 32°C preferably represents from 30 to 100% by weight of the compound, preferably from 50 to 100%, more preferably from 60 to 100% by weight of the compound. When the liquid fraction of the butter measured at 32°C is equal to 100%, the temperature at the end of the melting range of the pasty compound is less than or equal to 32°C.
[0524] The liquid fraction of butter measured at 32°C is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32°C to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound. The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32°C is calculated in the same way as the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23°C.
[0525] Regarding the measurement of hardness, the sample preparation and measurement protocols are as follows:
[0526] The composition according to the invention or the butter is placed in a 75 mm diameter mold which is filled to approximately 75% of its height. In order to avoid the thermal past and to control the crystallization, the mold is placed in the Vôtsch VC0018 programmable oven where it is first heated to 80°C for 60 minutes, then cooled from 80°C to 0°C at a cooling rate of 5°C / minute, then left at the stabilized temperature of 0°C for 60 minutes, then subjected to a temperature increase from 0°C to 20°C, at a heating rate of 5°C / minute, then left at the stabilized temperature of 20°C for 180 minutes.
[0527] The compression force measurement is carried out with the Swantech TA / TX2i texturometer. The mobile used is chosen according to the texture:
[0528] - 2 mm diameter cylindrical steel mobile for very raw materials rigid;
[0529] - 12 mm diameter cylindrical steel mobile for low-fat raw materials rigid;
[0530] The measurement involves 3 steps:
[0531] - a first step after automatic detection of the surface of the sample where the mobile moves at the measuring speed of 0.1 mm / s, and penetrates into the composition according to the invention or the butter to a penetration depth of 0.3 mm, the software notes the value of the maximum force reached;
[0532] - a 2nd stage called relaxation where the mobile remains in this position for a second and where we note the force after 1 second of relaxation; finally
[0533] - a 3rd step called withdrawal where the mobile returns to its initial position at the speed of 1 mm / s and we note the withdrawal energy of the probe (negative force).
[0534] The hardness value measured during the first step corresponds to the maximum compression force measured in Newton divided by the surface area of the tex-turometer cylinder expressed in mm2 in contact with the butter or the composition according to the invention. The hardness value obtained is expressed in mega-pascals or MPa.
[0535] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the particular butter(s) are of vegetable origin such as those described in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry (“Fats and Fatty Oils”, A. Thomas, Published Online: 15 JUN 2000, DOI: 10.1002 / 14356007.al0_173, point 13.2.2.2. Shea Butter, Borneo Tallow, and Related Fats (Vegetable Butters)).
[0536] We can cite more particularly shea butter, Nilotica Shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Galam butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Borneo butter or fat or tengkawang tallow) (Shorea stenoptera), Shorea butter, Illipé butter, Madhuca butter or Bassia Madhuca longifolia, mowrah butter (Madhuca Latifolia), Katiau butter (Madhuca mottleyana), Phulwara butter (M. butyracea), mango butter (Mangifera indica), Murumuru butter (Astrocaryum murumuru), Kokum butter (Garcinia Indica), Ucuuba butter (Virola sebifera), Tucuma butter, Painya butter (Kpangnan) (Pentadesma butyracea), coffee butter (Coffea arabica), apricot butter (Prunus Armeniaca), macadamia butter (Macadamia Ternifolia), grape seed butter (Vitis vinifera), avocado butter (Persea gratissima), olive butter (Olea europaea), sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalus dulcis) and sunflower butter.Preferably, the butter(s) according to the invention are chosen from Murumuru butter, Ucuuba butter, Shorea butter, Illipé butter, Shea butter, Cupuaçu butter and even more preferably Shea butter.
[0537] In a preferred variant of the invention, the weight content of C16 fatty acids in the triglycerides expressed relative to the total fatty acids in the triglycerides varies from 0 to 22%, better 0 to 15%, even better 2 to 12%.
[0538] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more butters in an amount particularly inclusively between 0.01 and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more particularly inclusively between 0.1 and 20% by weight, preferentially inclusively between 0.5 and 10% by weight, and more preferentially inclusively between 1 and 5% by weight.
[0539] Preferably, the compositions of the invention contain one or more fatty substances which are liquid at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg; i.e. 1,013.105 Pa), optionally combined with one or more non-liquid fatty substances under the same conditions.
[0540] Preferably, the fatty substance is chosen from
[0541] a) butters, preferably shea butter,
[0542] b) waxes, preferably beeswax,
[0543] c) non-liquid fatty alcohols, particularly chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably C10-C22, more preferably C14-C20, better still C16-C18 such as cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol and their mixture,
[0544] d) non-liquid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters, in particular solid esters derived from C9-C26 fatty acids and C9-C26 fatty alcohols, in particular alkyl myristates such as cetyl, myristyl, stearyl myristate; hexyl stearate, more particularly myristyl myrystate;
[0545] e) esters of monoalcohols, at least one of the alcohol or acid derived from said esters is branched, such as ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate, ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, ethyl-2-hexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, and C10-C22, preferably C12-C20, alkyl (iso)stearates such as isopropyl isostearate;
[0546] f) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7, preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopenta-siloxane, dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane, or cyclohexadimethylsiloxane as well as mixtures thereof, preferably cyclohexadimethylsiloxane;
[0547] g) oils of vegetable origin or synthetic triglycerides, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor, avocado oils, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, preferably triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids.
[0548] Preferably the fatty substance(s) xi) is (are) chosen from oils, in particular from oils, particularly from monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, more particularly from ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate, ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, ethyl-2-hexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, and C10-C22, preferably C12-C20, alkyl (iso)stearates such as isopropyl isostearate, isononyl isononanoate, and isononanoate. cetearyl, more preferably chosen from isononyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanoate, and their mixture.
[0549] According to a particular embodiment, the fatty substance(s) xi) included in the composition according to the present invention is / are present in the composition in an amount varying from 0.01% to 40% by weight, more particularly in an amount varying from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and preferably in an amount varying from 0.5% to 10%, more preferably from 1% to 5%, better still from 1.5% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. (xii) other ingredients
[0550] The composition of the invention may further comprise other ingredients such as polymers other than i) and ii), cationic, anionic, zwitterionic or neutral thickeners, associative or not, sequestering agents, antioxidants, preservatives other than v), perfumes, active ingredients such as niacinamide or vitamin B3, hyaluronates and their salts such as alkali metal hyaluronates (sodium hyaluronate), fruit extracts, and ascorbyl glucoside, humectants such as gly-cyrrhizate of alkali or alkaline earth metal salts such as di-potassium glycyrrhizate. The process of preparing the composition:
[0551] The invention also relates to a process for preparing a composition, in particular cosmetic or pharmaceutical i) to iv) and optionally v) to xi) by adding to the water iv) i), ii) and iii) and optionally v) to xi).
[0552] The invention is illustrated in more detail in the following example. The contents of the ingredients are expressed as a percentage by weight.
[0553] Another subject of the invention is a process for treating keratin materials by applying to said materials, in particular human materials such as the skin, the composition as defined above, comprising ingredients v) to xi). EXAMPLES Example 1:
[0554] The following compositions were made. The quantities are given in the table below in g per 100 g of composition. [Tables 1] Ingredients Composition 1 Composition 2 Sodium carbomer i) 1.8 1.4 Xanthan gum ii) 0.2 0.2 Biosaccharide Gum-1 ii) 0.09 - Yellow 5 iii) 4.7. 103 - Red 33 iii) 3.8. 103 - Blue 1 iii) 2.1. 103 1.2. 10 4 Charcoal powder iii) / polyglyceryl-10 stearate / polyglyceryl 10 myristate / polyglycerine-10 x) 7.103 - Ethanol v) 5 5 Glycerin v) 5 5 Caprylyl glycol v) 0.3 0.3 Lactic acid vi) 0.5 - Salicylic acid vi) 0.45 0.45 Sodium hydroxide vii) 0.47 0.23 Silica silylate ix) 0.3 0.3 Polyglyceryl 2 isostearate x) 0.15 0.15 Isononyl isononanoate xi) - 2 Cetearyl isononanoate xi) 2 - Dipotassium glycyrrhizate (humectant) 0.2 Fruit extract (active) - 0.01 Niacinamide Vitamin B3 (active) 5 4 Ascorbyl glucoside (active) - 0.1 Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate (sequestrant) 0.25 0.25 Perfume 0.02 0.1 Water iv) Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Color of the composition (observed appearance) Deep black (intense homogeneous) Lagoon blue (light and translucent homogeneous) pH of the composition 5.7 5.7
[0555] It is observed once applied to the skin, that the compositions transform into a gel with an appearance similar to a "sorbet" and a sensation of freshness is felt. During application with a pleasant sensation that the liquid flows and soaks in without there being a sticky or drying sensation after application to the skin, with a slight coloring that remains homogeneous. The color of the compositions does not change over time, they are homogeneous, and remain so over time. The compositions of the invention are stable over time even at a temperature greater than or equal to 45 °C after several days or even several weeks.
Claims
Claims
1. Composition, in particular cosmetic, comprising: i) at least one polymer derived from (Ci-C6)alkyl acrylic acid and its salts, comprising a repeating unit of formula (I): -[CH(R1)-C(R2)(COOM+)]- formula (I) in which: - R1 and R2, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C6)alkyl group; - M+ represents a cationic counterion, preferably an alkali, alkaline-earth or ammonium metal; - y represents an integer greater than or equal to 2; and - z is zero, or represents a number greater than zero; preferably y > z; ii) at least one polysaccharide, linear or branched; iii) at least one coloring matter; and iv) water.
2. Composition in which the polymer(s) i) is (are) chosen from the polymer(s) i) which comprise, particularly which consist of a repetition of units of formula (I) and unit(s) of formula (II): -[CH(R*)-C(R2)(COO M+)]-(I) and -[CH(R*)-C(R2)(COOH)]- (II) formula (I) and (II) in which R1 and R2, and M+ are as defined in claim 1; preferably R1 and R2 represent a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl, preferably a hydrogen atom, M+ represents a cationic counterion chosen from an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal and ammonium, preferentially M+ represents an alkali metal such as sodium; more preferably R1 represents a hydrogen atom, R2 represents a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl, even more preferably R2 represents a hydrogen atom;and M+ preferably represents an alkali metal such as sodium or potassium, more preferably sodium; preferably, the polymer(s) i) is (are) partially neutralized, preferably by a metal salt, more preferably by an alkali metal salt, and even more preferably a sodium salt.;
3. A composition according to any preceding claim in
4.
5.
6. in which the polymer(s) i) is (are) chosen from the polymer(s) i) capable of absorbing at least 20 times its weight in water (i.e. at least 20 grams of water absorbed per gram of polymer - the water absorbance characteristics being defined at room temperature: 25°C and atmospheric pressure with distilled water), particularly at least 50 times its weight in water, more particularly at least 80 times its weight in water, preferably the polymer(s) of formula (I) is (are) capable of absorbing at least 100 times its weight in water. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the polymer(s) i) is (are) chosen from the polymer(s) i) which comprise, particularly which consist of a repetition of units of formula (I) and unit(s) of formula (II) and are capable of crosslinking in the presence of one or more crosslinking agent(s); preferably the polymer(s) i) is (are) chosen from polyacrylates of alkali metals, alkaline earth metals, or ammonium metals, preferably polyacrylates of alkali metals and alkaline earth metals, more preferably polyacrylates of alkali metals such as sodium acrylate, crosslinked and partially neutralized and also called carbomer, more particularly the polymer(s) i) is (are) chosen from carbomers, preferably carbomer S or sodium carbomer. A composition according to any preceding claim wherein the polymer(s) i) is (are) selected from polymer(s) i) which is / are in the form of particles; preferably spherical; the average size of the primary particles (unhydrated) as D50 comprising (preferably consisting of) the polymer(s) i) is preferably at least 0.1 qm, preferably at least 0.5 qm, and more preferably at least 1 qm and at most 200 qm, preferably at most 100 qm, more preferably at most 50 qm, it being understood that the term "D50" denotes the particle size for which 50% of the volume of the particles, based on the total volume of the particles, have a particle size less than or equal to D50, the D50 value being able to be determined by laser diffraction, or by using a laser diffraction particle size distribution analyzer. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4 in which the polymer(s) i) is (are) chosen from the polymer(s) i) which is in the form of particles which, once hydrated, swell to form flexible particles having an average diameter of between 10 mm and 300 mm inclusive, more particularly between 20 mm and 200 mm, even more particularly between 40 mm and 150 mm. The particle sizes correspond to the primary particle sizes.
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the amount in the composition of polymer(s) i) is at least 0.5% by weight, more particularly at least 0.7% by weight, and more preferably at least 0.9% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and / or at most 10% by weight, preferably at most 5% by weight, and more preferably at most 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; particularly the amount in the composition of polymer(s) i) as defined in any one of the preceding claims ranges from 0.5% to 5% by weight, preferably ranges from 0.7% to 4% by weight, and more preferably ranges from 0.9 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the polysaccharide(s) ii) is (are) derived from native gums such as those derived from exudates of trees or shrubs, algae, seeds or tubers, fungi, bacteria, animal organisms, plants, chosen from gum arabic, gum ghatti, gum karaya, gum tragacanth; agar; alginates; carrageenans and furcellerans; guar gum; locust bean gum; fenugreek gum; tamarind gum; konjac gum; xanthan gum or dehydroxanthan gum; gellan gum; scleroglucan gum; preferably the polysaccharide(s) b) are derived from native gums chosen from: exudates of trees or shrubs including gum arabic; gum ghatti; gum karaya; gum tragacanth (or tragacanth); gums derived from algae including agar; alginates;carrageenans and furcellerans; gums derived from seeds or tubers including guar gum; locust bean gum; fenugreek gum; tamarind gum; konjac gum; microbial gums including xanthan gum or dehydroxanthan gum; gellan gum; scleroglucan gum; plant extracts including cellulose; starch; inulin and pectin; and chitin and chitosan derivatives; more preferably the; polysaccharide(s) ii) are chosen from pullulan, xanthan or dehedro-xanthan gums, and carreghenan.
9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the polysaccharide(s) ii), preferably branched, is (are) chosen from a) polysaccharides consisting of a combination of oses chosen from glucose, mannose, and glucuronic acid, associated or not with a (keto)(Ci-C6)alkyl carboxylic acid such as pyruvic acid, more preferably the polysaccharide(s) is (are) chosen from xanthan gums, b) trisaccharides of fucose-galactose-galacturonic acid;particularly composed of fucose, galactose and galacturonic acid residues, more preferably the polysaccharide(s) is Biosaccharide Gum-1 (223266-93-1) (fermentation gum derived from sorbitol) which is a trisaccharide of a-L-fucose( 1 —>3)aD-galactose( 1 —>3)-aD-galacturonic acid, c) the mixture of a) and b), preferably the mixture of xanthan gum and trisaccharides of a-L-fucose( 1 —>3)aD-galactose( 1 —>3)-aD-galacturonic acid (Biosaccharide Gum-1).;
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the amount of polysaccharide(s) ii) in which the composition ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the mass ratio of ingredients i) / ii) is greater than or equal to 1, more particularly greater than or equal to 2, even more particularly greater than or equal to 3, more particularly the mass ratio of ingredients i) / ii) is between 1 and 20, even more particularly between 2 and 15, preferably between 3 and 10, better still 3.4 to 9, more specifically between 7 and 9.
12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the coloring material(s) chosen from: pigments, anionic, cationic, zwitterionic, neutral, non-fluorescent or fluorescent direct dyes, and mixtures thereof, preferably pigments, in particular chosen from carmine, carbon black (or charcoal), aniline black, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, triarylmethane blue, codified blue pigments in the Color Index under the references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11660, 11680, 11710, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, and, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 45370, 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole, phenolic derivatives, D & C Red and D&C Yellow, preferably D & C Red 33 (CI 17 200) and D & C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140) and D & C Blue, preferably D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090), more preferably chosen from black pigments such as carbon black (charcoal);yellow pigment such as D&C Yellow 5; red pigment such as D&C Red 33, and / or blue pigment such as D&C Blue i;
13. 1. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the coloring matter(s) iii) is (are) present in a concentration ranging from 0.00001% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.00005% to 0.5% by weight, more particularly from 0.0001% to 0.05% by weight, more particularly between 0.0001% and 0.03% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the quantity of water iv) in the composition is greater than or equal to 10%, more particularly greater than or equal to 20%, preferably greater than or equal to 30%, more preferably greater than or equal to 40%, even more preferably greater than or equal to 50%, better still greater than or equal to 60%, better still greater than or equal to 70%, even better still greater than or equal to 80%; preferably the composition comprises between 10% and 99.9% by weight of water, more particularly between 20% and 98% by weight of water, 30% and 90% by weight of water, even more particularly between 40% and 95% by weight of water, preferably between 50% and 90% by weight of water, more preferably between 60% and 85% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.
15. A composition according to any preceding claim wherein the pH of the composition is between 4 and 10 inclusive. preferably between 4.5 and 8 inclusive, particularly between 5 and 7 and more particularly between 5.2 and 7.5, better between 5.4 and 6 such as 5.7+ / -0.
2.
16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprises v) one or more organic solvent(s), in particular chosen from: a) C2-C6 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; b) polyols miscible with water at room temperature (25°C) in particular chosen from polyols having in particular from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerin, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, diglycerin; (c) polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, and (d) aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof;preferably the composition comprises v) one or more polar protic organic solvent(s), liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, preferably chosen from alcohols comprising from 2 to 10 carbon atoms and from 1 to 6 hydroxyl groups, preferably the solvent is chosen from ethanol, glycerol, caprylyl glycol, butylene glycol, more particularly ethanol and caprylyl glycol; preferably, the organic solvent(s) v) is (are) chosen from a) and more preferably is (are) chosen from ethanol, glycerin, and caprylyl glycol, and their mixture; more particularly the organic solvent(s) is / are in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferentially ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight.;
17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims which comprises one or more acid(s) vi), organic or inorganic, preferably one or more organic acid(s), particularly chosen from (poly)(hydroxy)carboxylic acids, in particular of formula R'-C(O)-OH, with R' representing a hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, acyclic or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or non-aromatic, comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups; preferably R' represents a (Ci-C6)alkyl group optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy or carboxy groups or else R' represents an aryl group such as benzyl optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy or carboxy groups; preferably the acid(s) vi) is (are) chosen from hydroxy(Ci-C6)alkyl(poly)carboxylic acids such as lactic acid, tartaric acid, or citric acid, salicylic acid.
18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims which comprises vii) one or more alkaline, organic or mineral agent(s), preferably one or more mineral alkaline agents, more particularly chosen from alkali carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium or potassium carbonates and sodium or potassium bicarbonates, sodium or potassium hydroxides or mixtures thereof, even more particularly sodium or potassium hydroxides, even more preferably sodium hydroxide.
19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims which comprises ix) one or more inorganic oleosorbable particles, which particularly comprise at least one material chosen from silica, in particular hydrophobic silica such as silica silylate, silicate, perlite, boron nitride, alkali or alkaline earth metal carbonates such as magnesium carbonate, alkali or alkaline earth metal hydroxides such as magnesium hydroxide, kaolin, talc, and mixtures thereof.
20. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims which is either in the form of a direct emulsion, i.e. of the water-in-oil (O / W) or “oil-in-water (O / W)” type, or in the form of an inverse emulsion, i.e. of the water-in-oil (W / O) or “water-in-oil (W / O)” type, or in the form of an oil-in-water-in-oil (O / W / O) or “oil-in-water-in-oil (O / W / O)” multiple emulsion, or in the form of a microemulsion; preferably the composition of the invention is an O / W type emulsion, more preferably an emulsified gel of the O / W or W / O type, in particular of the O / W type.
21. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims which comprises x) one or more non-ionic, anionic, cationic, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants, particularly non-ionic or anionic, more particularly non-ionic, preferably the surfactant(s) is (are) chosen from mono and diesters of oxyethylenated sorbitan fatty acids having from 2 to 200 moles EO, in particular from 10 to 100 EO such as propylene glycol stearate having from 10 to 30 EO such as 20 EO; glyceryl mono distearate / polyethylene glycol stearate (100 EO), preferably C6-C30 fatty acid glyceryl monoester, more preferably the surfactant(s) x) is (are) chosen from Polyglyceryl 2 isostearate, preferably C10-C24, such as polyglyceryl-10 stearate, polyglyceryl-10 myristate; the amount of surfactants preferably ranges from 0.05% to 30% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and more particularly from 1 to 5% by weight, better still between 2 and 4.5% relative to the total weight of the composition of the invention; particularly the amount of surfactant is less than 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
22. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims which comprises xi) one or more fatty substances, in particular chosen from oils, in particular from oils, particularly from monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, more particularly from ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate, ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, ethyl-2-hexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, and C10-C22, preferably C12-C20, alkyl (iso)stearates such as isopropyl isostearate, isononyl isononanoate, and isononanoate cetearyl, more preferably isononyl isononanoate, and cetearyl isononanoate;particularly the fatty substance(s) xi) is (are) present in the composition in an amount varying from 0.01% to 40% by weight, more particularly in an amount varying from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably in an amount varying from 0.5% to 10%, more preferably from 1% to 5%, better still from 1.5% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.;
23. Process for treating keratin materials, in particular human materials such as skin, by applying to said materials the composition according to any one of the preceding claims.
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