Non-adhesive stable composition having texture conversion property
The combination of an amphiphilic polymer, a microorganism-derived polysaccharide, and a low HLB polyglyceryl fatty acid ester in a cosmetic composition addresses the challenge of maintaining stability and reducing stickiness, resulting in a refreshing and effective cosmetic experience.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- JP2023193710
- Authority / Receiving Office
- JP · JP
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2023-11-14
- Publication Date
- 2025-06-05
AI Technical Summary
Current cosmetic compositions struggle to provide both stability and a non-sticky feel after application, while also transforming texture during application.
A composition comprising an amphiphilic polymer with hydrophilic and hydrophobic units, a polysaccharide derived from a microorganism, and a polyglyceryl fatty acid ester with a low HLB value, which works together to stabilize the composition and reduce stickiness.
The composition achieves long-term stability and provides a refreshing, non-sticky feel after application, enhancing the overall cosmetic experience.
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Abstract
Description
[Technical field]
[0001] The present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, more preferably a skin cosmetic composition, which is stable and capable of providing texture transformation and non-stickiness. [Background technology]
[0002] Providing a pleasant texture to the skin is one of the main properties of a cosmetic product, in particular a skin care cosmetic product.
[0003] In particular, texture transformation (a change in the physical properties of the composition, e.g. a change in texture from gel or cream to liquid, corresponding to a breakdown in the structure of the composition, whereby the liquid can flow out of the composition), which can provide a fresh sensation at the initial stage of application as well as a non-sticky or reduced sticky feel after application, remains necessary for customer satisfaction during use.
[0004] It should be noted that compositions that are unstable and easily cause the composition's structure to collapse often provide a pleasant feel in use, which means that it is difficult to provide both a pleasant feel in use and good stability at the same time.
[0005] To date, several techniques have been reported for gel-like or emulsion compositions that provide improved texture and stability. For example, WO2022 / 124385 discloses a stable composition that can provide texture transformation. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]
[0006] [Patent Document 1] WO2022 / 124385 [Patent Document 2] US-A-2005 / 0031580 [Non-patent literature]
[0007] [Non-Patent Document 1] Walter Noll, Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press [Non-Patent Document 2] Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, January 1976, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]
[0008] However, there has not yet been sufficient research into stable compositions that can eliminate or reduce the sticky feeling after application as well as transform the texture during application.
[0009] It is an object of the present invention to provide a stable composition that is capable of eliminating or reducing the sticky feeling after application as well as transforming the texture during application. [Means for solving the problem]
[0010] The above object of the present invention is to (a) at least one amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic unit; (b) at least one polysaccharide derived from a microorganism; (c) at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having at least one hydroxyl group in the polyglyceryl moiety; A composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, more preferably a dermocosmetic composition, comprising: (c) the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having at least one hydroxyl group in the polyglyceryl moiety has an HLB value of 7.0 or less, preferably 6.5 or less, more preferably 6.0 or less; This can be achieved by the composition.
[0011] (a) an amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic unit, 8~30 It may be made from at least one of alkyl (meth)acrylates and acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, and esters thereof.
[0012] (a) The amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic unit may be crosslinked.
[0013] (a) The amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic unit can be selected from the group consisting of (acrylates / alkyl acrylate (C10-30)) crosspolymer, (acrylates / ethylhexyl acrylate) crosspolymer, (alkyl acrylate (C8-22) / methacrylic acid) crosspolymer, (acrylates / alkyl acrylate (C10-30)) crosspolymer K, (acrylates / alkyl acrylate (C10-30)) crosspolymer Na, and mixtures thereof.
[0014] The amount of (a) amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic unit in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0015] (b) The polysaccharide derived from a microorganism may be selected from the group consisting of sclerotium gum, xanthan gum, and mixtures thereof.
[0016] The amount of the (b) microorganism-derived polysaccharide in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by mass to 10% by mass, preferably 0.05% by mass to 5% by mass, and more preferably 0.1% by mass to 1% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0017] (c) The polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having at least one hydroxyl group in the polyglyceryl moiety can be selected from polyglyceryl polyricileate, polyglyceryl fatty acid esters derived from two or more fatty acids, and mixtures thereof.
[0018] (c) The polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having at least one hydroxyl group in the polyglyceryl moiety can be selected from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-6 polyricileate, polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate, and mixtures thereof.
[0019] The amount of (c) the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having at least one hydroxyl group in the polyglyceryl moiety in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by mass to 20% by mass, preferably 0.5% by mass to 15% by mass, and more preferably 1% by mass to 10% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0020] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (d) at least one filler.
[0021] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (e) at least one oil.
[0022] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (f) water.
[0023] The composition according to the invention may be in the form of an O / W emulsion.
[0024] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for treating keratinous materials, comprising the step of applying to the keratinous materials a composition according to the invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS
[0025] As a result of intensive research, the present inventors have discovered a novel approach to provide a stable composition that can eliminate or reduce the sticky feeling after application, in addition to transforming the texture during application.
[0026] Thus, one aspect of the present invention is (a) at least one amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic unit; (b) at least one polysaccharide derived from a microorganism; (c) at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having at least one hydroxyl group in the polyglyceryl moiety; A composition comprising: (c) the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having at least one hydroxyl group in the polyglyceryl moiety has an HLB value of 7.0 or less, preferably 6.5 or less, more preferably 6.0 or less; It is a composition.
[0027] The compositions according to the present invention are stable and can eliminate or reduce the sticky feeling after application, in addition to texture transformation during application.
[0028] The composition according to the invention is stable for a long time after the composition is prepared, both immediately after the composition is prepared and even under temperature changes from cold to hot. Therefore, the composition according to the invention is stable over time and can be stored for a long period of time even under temperature changes that occur from winter to summer.
[0029] The compositions according to the present invention preferably provide no or reduced sticky feeling after application.
[0030] The term "tacky" as used herein means the property of providing a sticky feel to the skin.
[0031] The composition according to the invention can provide texture transformation during application, preferably at the initial stage of application.Texture transformation means here a change in the physical properties of the composition, for example a change in texture from gel or cream to liquid, which corresponds to a breakdown in the structure of the composition, and allows the liquid to flow out of the composition.Texture transformation can provide a refreshing sensation.
[0032] Therefore, the composition according to the present invention can provide an excellent feel to the skin, particularly during and after application of the composition.
[0033] The composition according to the present invention will be described in more detail below.
[0034] [Composition] The present invention relates to (a) at least one amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic unit; (b) at least one polysaccharide derived from a microorganism; (c) at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having at least one hydroxyl group in the polyglyceryl moiety; A composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, more preferably a dermocosmetic composition, comprising: (c) the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having at least one hydroxyl group in the polyglyceryl moiety has an HLB value of 7.0 or less, preferably 6.5 or less, more preferably 6.0 or less; Concerning the composition.
[0035] (Amphiphilic polymer) The composition according to the invention comprises (a) at least one amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic unit. A single type of such polymer may be used, but two or more different types of such polymers may also be used in combination.
[0036] (a) An amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic unit (hereinafter sometimes simply referred to as an "associative polymer") may be an associative polymer. For purposes of the present invention, the term "associative polymer" refers to homopolymers or copolymers that can reversibly associate with each other or with other molecules in an aqueous medium.
[0037] (a) Amphiphilic polymers, which contain at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic unit, can function as emulsifiers.
[0038] (a) The hydrophilic units of the amphiphilic polymer may have at least one carboxylic acid, which may be in the form of a salt. The hydrophilic units may be derived from (meth)acrylic acid or a salt thereof.
[0039] (a) The hydrophobic unit of the amphiphilic polymer may have a fatty chain containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 26 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms. The hydrophobic unit may be the C of (meth)acrylic acid. 8~30 The fatty chain may be derived from an alkyl ester. The fatty chain is preferably present in a pendant group or in a side chain of the (a) amphiphilic polymer.
[0040] (a) The amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic unit is preferably hydrophilic such that it is soluble or dispersible in water or in alcohols, especially selected from lower alcohols, glycols, polyols.
[0041] For the purposes of this patent application, the term "hydrophilic" polymer means a (co)polymer capable of forming hydrogen bonds with water or with alcohols, in particular selected from lower alcohols, glycols and polyols. In particular, the (a) amphiphilic polymer is preferably capable of forming OH and / or NH and / or SH bonds.
[0042] The (a) amphiphilic polymers can be obtained by polymerizing monomers consisting essentially of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, and their salts or esters, and therefore can be referred to as (meth)acrylic / acrylate polymers.
[0043] (a) The amphiphilic polymer, if not crosslinked, is preferably not made or obtained by using any monomer other than acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, and their salts or esters.
[0044] The salt of (meth)acrylic acid may be in the form of an inorganic salt, such as an alkali metal salt, an alkaline earth metal salt, or an ammonium salt.
[0045] The esters of (meth)acrylic acid may be chosen from alkyl (meth)acrylates and hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylates.
[0046] In one embodiment, the ester of (meth)acrylic acid is 1~4 Alkyl (meth)acrylate, C 10~30 Alkyl (meth)acrylate, Hydroxyl C 1~4 Alkyl (meth)acrylate and Hydroxyl C 10~30 It can be selected from alkyl (meth)acrylates.
[0047] (Meth)acrylic acid C 1~4 The alkyl ester may be selected from the group consisting of methyl (meth)acrylate, ethyl (meth)acrylate, propyl (meth)acrylate, butyl (meth)acrylate, and mixtures thereof.
[0048] Hydroxyl C of (meth)acrylic acid 1~4 The alkyl ester may be selected from the group consisting of hydroxymethyl (meth)acrylate, hydroxyethyl (meth)acrylate, hydroxypropyl (meth)acrylate, hydroxybutyl (meth)acrylate, and mixtures thereof.
[0049] C 10~30 Alkyl (meth)acrylate is C 12~26 Alkyl (meth)acrylate, preferably C 12~22 It may be an alkyl (meth)acrylate.
[0050] (C 10 ~C 30 ) Examples of (meth)acrylates include lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate, and dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate, and dodecyl methacrylate.
[0051] Hydroxyl (C 10 ~C 30 ) Examples of (meth)acrylates include hydroxylauryl acrylate, hydroxystearyl acrylate, hydroxydecyl acrylate, hydroxyisodecyl acrylate, and hydroxydodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, hydroxylauryl methacrylate, hydroxystearyl methacrylate, hydroxydecyl methacrylate, hydroxyisodecyl methacrylate, and hydroxydodecyl methacrylate.
[0052] (a) The amphiphilic polymer is C 10~30 It is preferable that the acrylic acid and methacrylic acid esters are at least one of alkyl (meth)acrylates, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, and esters thereof. As the acrylic acid and methacrylic acid esters, those described above (C 10~30 (excluding alkyl (meth)acrylates).
[0053] For example, (a) the amphiphilic polymer preferably comprises the following monomers (I) and (II): H 2 C=C(R 1 )COOR 2 (I) H 2C=C(R 1 )COOR 3 (II) [In the formula, R 1 H and CH 3 is selected from the group consisting of: R 2 is C 8~30 Alkyl, preferably C 10~26 Alkyl, more preferably C 12~22 Selected from alkyl, R 3 H and C 1~4 alkyl, for example methyl. The compound may be prepared or obtained by polymerizing
[0054] (a) The amphiphilic polymer comprises the following monomers (I') and (II): H 2 C=CHCOOR 2 (I') H 2 C=C(R 1 )COOR 3 (II) [In the formula, R 1 H and CH 3 Selected from R 2 is C 8~30 Alkyl, preferably C 10~26 Alkyl, more preferably C 12~22 Selected from alkyl, R 3 H and C 1~4 alkyl, for example methyl. It may be more preferred that the compound is made or obtained by polymerizing
[0055] (a) The amphiphilic polymer is preferably crosslinked.
[0056] (a) The amphiphilic polymer may be selected from polymers formed from a mixture of monomers comprising: (i) (meth)acrylic acid, preferably acrylic acid; (ii) the above formula (I), 1 is H or CH 3 , preferably H, R 2 represents an alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 26 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms, (iii) Crosslinkers which are well-known copolymerizable polyethylenically unsaturated monomers such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, allyl ethers of sucrose, allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, and methylene bisacrylamide. Allyl ethers can include, for example, 2-propenyl groups.
[0057] More specifically, among this type of copolymer, there are copolymers such as those mentioned above, which contain 95 to 60% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic units), 4 to 40% by weight of C 10 ~C 30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit) and 0-6% by weight of a cross-linkable polymerizable monomer, otherwise 98-96% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 1-4% by weight of C 10 ~C 30 A composition consisting of alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit) and 0.1 to 0.6% by mass of a cross-linking polymerizable monomer will be used.
[0058] (a) The amphiphilic polymer may be selected from the group consisting of (acrylates / alkyl acrylate (C10-30)) crosspolymer, (acrylates / ethylhexyl acrylate) crosspolymer, (alkyl acrylate (C8-22) / methacrylic acid) crosspolymer, (acrylates / alkyl acrylate (C10-30)) crosspolymer K, (acrylates / alkyl acrylate (C10-30)) crosspolymer Na, and mixtures thereof.
[0059] According to the present invention, among the above polymers, acrylate / C 10 ~C 30Alkyl acrylate copolymers (INCI name: (Acrylates / Alkyl Acrylates (C10-30)) Crosspolymer), for example the products sold under the trade names Pemulen® TR1, Pemulen® TR2, Pemulen EZ4U, Carbopol® Ultrez 20 Polymer, Carbopol® 1382 and Carbopol® EDT 2020 by the company Lubrizol, are very particularly preferred.
[0060] (a) The amphiphilic polymer can function as a thickener, preferably as a hydrophilic thickener.
[0061] The amount of (a) amphiphilic polymer in the composition of the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0062] On the other hand, the amount of (a) amphiphilic polymer in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, more preferably 0.5% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0063] The amount of the (a) amphiphilic polymer in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 10% by mass, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by mass, and more preferably from 0.1% to 0.5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0064] (Polysaccharides derived from microorganisms) The composition according to the invention comprises (b) at least one polysaccharide derived from a microorganism, and a single type of such polysaccharide may be used, but two or more different types of such polysaccharides may also be used in combination.
[0065] (b) Polysaccharides derived from microorganisms refer to polysaccharides produced by microorganisms such as bacteria.
[0066] (b) The microbially derived polysaccharide is not a plant derived polysaccharide. (b) It may be preferred that the microbially derived polysaccharide is not cellulose based.
[0067] (b) Examples of polysaccharides derived from microorganisms include curdlan, xanthan gum, gellan gum, dextran, pullulan, sclerotium gum, and mixtures thereof.
[0068] (b) It may be preferred that the microbially derived polysaccharide is selected from the group consisting of sclerotium gum, xanthan gum, and mixtures thereof.
[0069] (b) More preferably, the polysaccharide derived from a microorganism is sclerotium gum, for example, sold under the name Actigum CS 11 QD by the company Cargill.
[0070] The amount of (b) the microorganism-derived polysaccharide in the composition of the present invention may be 0.01 mass % or more, preferably 0.05 mass % or more, more preferably 0.1 mass % or more, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0071] The amount of (b) polysaccharides derived from a microorganism in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by mass or less, preferably 5% by mass or less, and more preferably 1% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0072] The amount of the (b) microorganism-derived polysaccharide in the composition according to the present invention may be within the range of 0.01% by mass to 10% by mass, preferably 0.05% by mass to 5% by mass, and more preferably 0.1% by mass to 1% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0073] (Polyglyceryl fatty acid ester) The composition according to the invention comprises (c) at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having at least one hydroxyl group in the polyglyceryl moiety. A single type of such polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be used, but two or more different types of such polyglyceryl fatty acid esters may also be used in combination.
[0074] (c) The polyglyceryl fatty acid esters having at least one hydroxyl group in the polyglyceryl moiety have an HLB value of 7.0 or less, preferably 6.5 or less, and more preferably 6.0 or less.
[0075] (c) Polyglyceryl fatty acid esters having at least one hydroxyl group in the polyglyceryl moiety may have an HLB value of 2.0 or greater, preferably 2.5 or greater, and more preferably 3.0 or greater.
[0076] Thus, a polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having at least one hydroxyl group in the polyglyceryl moiety may have an HLB value of 2.0 to 7.0, preferably 2.5 to 6.5, and more preferably 3.0 to 6.0.
[0077] The term HLB ("hydrophilic-lipophilic balance") is well known to those skilled in the art and represents the ratio between the hydrophilic and lipophilic parts of a molecule. The HLB value can be calculated using the formula HLB=20*(1-S / A), where S is the saponification value of the ester and A is the neutralization value of the fatty acid.
[0078] (c) The polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having at least one hydroxyl group in the polyglyceryl moiety can be selected from polyglyceryl polyricileate, polyglyceryl fatty acid esters derived from two or more fatty acids, and mixtures thereof.
[0079] Polyglyceryl Polyricinoleate: According to one embodiment of the present invention, (c) the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having at least one hydroxyl group in the polyglyceryl moiety may be selected from polyglyceryl polyricinoleates.
[0080] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polyglyceryl polyricinoleate" refers to an ester obtained by esterifying one or more polyglycerols with at least one polyricinoleic acid. Polyglycerols suitable for the present invention have the following general formula (I):
[0081] [ka]
[0082] [In the formula, n represents an integer between 1 and 11, preferably between 1 and 7, more preferably between 1 and 5, and even more preferably between 1 and 2. The compound can be selected from the following:
[0083] The polyricinoleic acid suitable for the present invention has the following general formula (II):
[0084] [ka]
[0085] [In the formula, m represents an integer between 0 and 10, in particular between 1 and 8, and more particularly between 1 and 5. The compound can be selected from the following:
[0086] The polyglyceryl polyricinoleates suitable for the present invention are partial esters.
[0087] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "partial ester" is intended to denote compounds in which not all of the -OH groups of the polyglycerol units are esterified with polyricinoleic acid, in other words polyglyceryl polyricinoleate compounds which contain at least one free -OH group on the polyglycerol chain.
[0088] By way of example, polyglyceryl polyricinoleates suitable for the present invention may be represented by the following general formula (III):
[0089] [ka]
[0090] [In the formula, R and R' independently represent a group selected from a hydrogen atom or a polyricinoleate chain, with the proviso that at least one of the R or R' groups is a hydrogen atom and at least one of the R or R' groups is a polyricinoleate chain; n represents an integer between 0 and 11, in particular between 0 and 7, preferably between 0 and 5, and even more particularly between 1 and 4. The compound may be:
[0091] Examples of polyglyceryl polyricinoleates that are particularly suitable for the present invention include, inter alia, polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, in particular that sold under the name Akoline PGPR by the company Karlshamns, that sold under the name DUB PGPR by the company Stearinerie Dubois Fils, that sold under the name Dermofeel PR by the company Dr. Straetmans, that sold under the name Crester PR by the company Croda, that sold under the name Imwitor 600 by the company Sasol, otherwise sold under the name ARLACEL 1690 by the company Croda; polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, sold under the name Sunsoft 818R by Taiyo Kagaku Co., Ltd. and that sold under the name Hexaglyn PR-15 by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd., or that sold under the name S-Face CR-1001 by Sakamoto Yakuhin Kogyo Co., Ltd.
[0092] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the polyglyceryl polyricinoleate may be chosen from polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate and mixtures thereof, preferably polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, for example sold under the name SY-Glyster CRS-75 MB by Sakamoto Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd.
[0093] Polyglyceryl fatty acid esters derived from two or more fatty acids: According to one embodiment of the present invention, (c) the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having at least one hydroxyl group in the polyglyceryl moiety can be selected from polyglyceryl fatty acid esters derived from two or more fatty acids, i.e. polyglyceryl fatty acid esters comprising at least two, preferably three, different fatty acid moieties, at least one of which may be a monocarboxylic acid and / or at least one of which may be a dicarboxylic acid.
[0094] The polyglyceryl fatty acid ester containing at least two different fatty acid moieties may be an ester of a polyglycerol derived from 2 to 5 glycerols and (i) a polyhydroxystearic acid, such as poly(12-hydroxystearic acid), and (ii) a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched dicarboxylic acid containing 4 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 14 carbon atoms, more preferably 6 to 10 carbon atoms.
[0095] The polyglyceryl fatty acid ester containing at least three different fatty acid moieties may be an ester of a polyglycerol derived from 2 to 5 glycerols and (i) a polyhydroxystearic acid, such as poly(12-hydroxystearic acid), (ii) a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched dicarboxylic acid containing 4 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 14 carbon atoms, more preferably 6 to 10 carbon atoms, and (iii) a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched monovalent fatty acid containing 12 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 14 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably 16 to 20 carbon atoms.
[0096] Polyglyceryl fatty acid esters containing at least three different fatty acid moieties can be obtained by esterifying a mixture of polyglycerol with (i) polyhydroxystearic acid and 2-5 units of polyglycerol (preferably 4 units), (ii) a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched divalent carboxylic acid containing 4-18 carbon atoms (preferably sebacic acid), and (iii) a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched monovalent fatty acid containing 12-24 carbon atoms (preferably isostearic acid).
[0097] Preferred examples of polyglyceryl fatty acid esters containing at least three different fatty acid moieties include those having the formula:
[0098] [ka]
[0099] [In the formula, PHS stands for polyhydroxystearic acid. IS stands for isostearic acid. Examples of suitable polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacic acid include polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacic acid.
[0100] Such a compound is prepared according to application US-A-2005 / 0031580 and sold under the name Isolan GPS® by the company Goldschmidt (Degussa).
[0101] (c) The polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having at least one hydroxyl group in the polyglyceryl moiety is preferably selected from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-6 polyricileate, polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate, and mixtures thereof.
[0102] The amount of (c) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having at least one hydroxyl group in the polyglyceryl moiety in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, more preferably 1% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0103] The amount of (c) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having at least one hydroxyl group in the polyglyceryl moiety in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, more preferably 10% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0104] The amount of (c) the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having at least one hydroxyl group in the polyglyceryl moiety in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by mass to 20% by mass, preferably 0.5% by mass to 15% by mass, and more preferably 1% by mass to 10% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0105] (Filler) The composition according to the present invention may comprise (d) at least one filler. A single type of filler may be used, but two or more different types of fillers may also be used in combination.
[0106] The term "fillers" should be understood to mean colorless or white inorganic or synthetic particles that are insoluble in the liquid components that may be present in the composition according to the invention, regardless of the temperature at which the composition is prepared.
[0107] (d) Fillers may be inorganic or organic, may be spherical or ellipsoidal in shape, and may be of any crystalline form (e.g., platelet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.), including, but not limited to, talc, mica, silica, silica silylate, kaolin, sericite, calcined talc, calcined mica, calcined sericite, synthetic mica, bismuth oxychloride, barium sulfate, boron nitride, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium bicarbonate, and hydroxyapatite, powders formed from polyamides (Nylon®), poly-β-alanine and polyethylene, powders formed from polyurethanes, powders formed from tetrafluoroethylene polymers (Teflon®), lauryl lysine, starch, polymeric hollow microspheres, such as hollow microspheres of poly(vinylidene chloride) / acrylonitrile, such as Expancel® (Nobel Industrie), or hollow microspheres of acrylic acid copolymers, silicone resin microbeads (e.g. Tospearls® from Toshiba), particles formed of polyorganosiloxane elastomers, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, basic magnesium carbonate, hollow silica microspheres, glass or ceramic microcapsules, or metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for example from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, lithium stearate, zinc laurate or magnesium myristate.
[0108] (d) The filler is preferably selected from the group consisting of silica, starch, and mixtures thereof.
[0109] The amount of (d) filler in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0110] The amount of (d) filler in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, more preferably 10% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0111] The amount of the (d) filler in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% by mass to 20% by mass, preferably from 0.5% by mass to 15% by mass, and more preferably from 1% by mass to 10% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0112] (oil) The composition according to the invention may comprise (e) at least one oil. When two or more oils are used, they may be the same or different.
[0113] Here, "oil" means a fatty compound or substance that is in the form of a liquid or paste (non-solid) at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) and room temperature (25°C). As oils, those commonly used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
[0114] (e) The oil may be a non-polar oil, such as a hydrocarbon oil or a silicone oil; a polar oil, such as a vegetable oil or an animal oil, and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.
[0115] (e) The oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils and fatty alcohols.
[0116] Examples of vegetable oils include, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, camellia oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.
[0117] Examples of animal oils include, for example, squalene and squalane.
[0118] Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils, and artificial triglycerides.
[0119] The ester oil is preferably a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 1 ~C 26 Aliphatic mono- or polyacids and saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 1 ~C 26 They are liquid esters with aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms in the ester being 10 or more.
[0120] Preferably, in the case of esters of monoalcohols, at least one of the alcohol and the acid from which the ester is derived is branched.
[0121] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.
[0122] C 4 ~C 22 Dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C 1 ~C 22Esters with alcohols, and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids with non-sugar C 4 ~C 26 Esters with dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
[0123] In particular, there may be mentioned diethyl sebacate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosine, diisopropyl sebacate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate, diisostearyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate, triisopropyl citrate, triisocetyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate, glyceryl trilactate, glyceryl trioctanoate, trioctyldodecyl citrate, trioleyl citrate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, and diethylene glycol diisononanoate.
[0124] As an ester oil, C 6 ~C 30 , preferably C 12 ~C 22 Sugar esters and diesters of fatty acids of the above groups can be used. The term "sugar" is recalled to mean oxygen-carrying hydrocarbon-based compounds containing at least 4 carbon atoms, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and containing some alcohol functional groups. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
[0125] Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, as well as derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.
[0126] Sugar esters of fatty acids are in particular those which are composed of the aforementioned sugars and linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 6 ~C30 , preferably C 12 ~C 22 They can be selected from the group comprising esters or mixed esters with fatty acids. These compounds, when unsaturated, can have from 1 to 3 conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0127] The esters according to this variant may also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
[0128] These esters may be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristic acid, behenic acid, coconut acid, stearate, linoleate, linolenic acid, capric acid and arachidic acid esters, or mixtures thereof, such as mixed esters of oleopalmitic acid, oleostearic acid and palmitostearic acid, among others, and pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate.
[0129] More particularly, mono- and diesters are used, especially the mono- or dioleate, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates, and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose, or methylglucose.
[0130] One example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
[0131] Examples of preferred ester oils include diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl (caprylic acid / capric acid), methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicarbonate, and the like. Examples of suitable oleic acid salts include prilyl, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosine, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.
[0132] Examples of artificial triglycerides include capryl caprylyl glyceride, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, capric / caprylic triglyceride, and capric / caprylic / linolenic triglyceride.
[0133] Examples of silicone oils include linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.
[0134] Preferably, the silicone oil is chosen from polydialkylsiloxane liquids, especially polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) liquids, and polyorganosiloxane liquids containing at least one aryl group.
[0135] These silicone oils may also be organically modified. The organically modified silicones that can be used for the present invention are silicone oils as defined above and that contain in their structure one or more organic functional groups that are bonded via a hydrocarbon-based group.
[0136] Organopolysiloxanes are defined in detail by Walter Noll in "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academic Press. They may be volatile or nonvolatile.
[0137] When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60° C. and 260° C., and even more particularly chosen from:
[0138] (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing 3 to 7, preferably 4 to 5, silicon atoms. These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide, Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. Cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, for example those of the formula:
[0139] [ka]
[0140] Mention may also be made of Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide.
[0141] Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes and organosilicon compounds, such as a 50 / 50 mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol, and a mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane.
[0142] (ii) Contains 2 to 9 silicon atoms and has a density of 5 × 10 at 25 °C -6 m 2 Linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes with a viscosity of less than 1000 / s. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane, sold in particular under the name SH 200 by Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this class are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, January 1976, pages 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25°C according to ASTM Standard 445, Annex C.
[0143] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes may also be used, these being more particularly chosen from the polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes having trimethylsilyl end groups.
[0144] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, but is not limited to, the following commercially available products: the Silbione® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or Mirasil® oils sold by the company Rhodia, such as for example the 70 047 V 500 000 oil; the Mirasil® series of oils sold by the company Rhodia; - Dow Corning 200 series oils, e.g., with a viscosity of 60,000mm 2 / sec, DC200, and - Viscasil® oils manufactured by General Electric and certain oils of the SF series manufactured by General Electric (SF 96, SF 18).
[0145] Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups, known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the 48 series oils from Rhodia.
[0146] Among the silicones containing aryl groups, mention may be made of the polydiarylsiloxanes, especially polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes, such as phenylsilicone oils.
[0147] Phenyl silicone oils have the formula:
[0148] [ka]
[0149] [In the formula, R 1 ~R 10 are, independently of one another, saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C 1 ~C 30 Hydrocarbon-based groups, preferably C 1 ~C 12 Hydrocarbon-based groups, more preferably C 1 ~C 6 are hydrocarbon-based radicals, in particular methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl radicals, m, n, p and q each independently represent an integer of 0 to 900, inclusive, preferably an integer of 0 to 500, inclusive, and more preferably an integer of 0 to 100, inclusive; However, the sum n+m+q is non-zero. The phenyl silicone may be selected from the group consisting of phenyl silicones.
[0150] Examples that may be mentioned include products sold under the following names: - Rhodia Silbione® oils, series 70 641; Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 series oils from Rhodia; - Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid, an oil made by Dow Corning; - PK series silicones from Bayer, e.g. product PK20, - Certain oils of the SF series manufactured by General Electric, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.
[0151] As the phenyl silicone oil, phenyl trimethicone [R 1 ~R 10 is methyl, p, q and n=0, and m=1.
[0152] The hydrocarbon oil may be chosen from: - Linear or branched, optionally cyclic C 5 ~C 19 Alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane. - linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffin, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutenes, such as Parleam®, and squalane.
[0153] Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils include, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oils (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, petrolatum or petroleum, naphthalene, etc.; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane and decene / butene copolymers; and mixtures thereof.
[0154] The term "aliphatic" in aliphatic alcohols refers to the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols having 4 or more, preferably 6 or more, and more preferably 12 or more carbon atoms are included within the scope of aliphatic alcohols. The aliphatic alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated. The aliphatic alcohols may be linear or branched.
[0155] The aliphatic alcohol may have the structure R-OH, where R is selected from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched groups containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R is selected from C 12 ~C 20 Alkyl group and C 12 ~C 20 alkenyl groups, R may be unsubstituted or substituted with at least one hydroxyl group.
[0156] Examples of fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
[0157] Preferably, the fatty alcohol is a saturated fatty alcohol.
[0158] Thus, fatty alcohols are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 6 ~C 30 Alcohol, preferably linear or branched, saturated C 6 ~C 30 Alcohols, more preferably linear or branched saturated C 12 ~C 20 Alcohol can be selected.
[0159] Here, the term "saturated fatty alcohol" refers to an alcohol having a long, saturated aliphatic carbon chain. A saturated fatty alcohol is any linear or branched saturated C 6 ~C 30 Preferably, the alcohol is selected from linear or branched saturated C 6 ~C 30 Among fatty alcohols, linear or branched saturated C 12 ~C 20 Fatty alcohols are preferably used. More preferably, any linear or branched saturated C 16 ~C 20 Aliphatic alcohols can be used. Even more preferably, branched C 16 ~C 20 Aliphatic alcohols can be used.
[0160] Examples of saturated fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, or mixtures thereof (e.g., cetearyl alcohol) and behenyl alcohol can be used as the saturated fatty alcohol.
[0161] According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohols used in the compositions according to the invention are preferably chosen from cetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof.
[0162] It is also preferred that the (e) oil is chosen from oils having a molecular weight of less than 600 g / mol.
[0163] Preferably, the (e) oil has a low molecular weight, such as less than 600 g / mol, and contains one or more short hydrocarbon chains (C 1 ~C 12 ), ester oils (e.g., isopropyl lauroyl sarcosine, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate, and ethylhexyl palmitate), silicone oils (e.g., volatile silicones such as cyclohexasiloxane), hydrocarbon oils (e.g., isododecane, isohexadecane, and squalane), branched and / or unsaturated fatty alcohols (C 12 ~C 30 ) type oils, such as octyldodecanol and oleyl alcohol, and ether oils, such as dicaprylyl ether.
[0164] (e) The oil may be selected from polar oils, preferably from ester oils, more preferably from ethylhexyl palmitate, artificial triglycerides (e.g. caprylic / capric triglyceride), and mixtures thereof.
[0165] The amount of (e) oil in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 5% by weight or more, more preferably 10% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0166] On the other hand, the amount of (e) oil in the composition according to the present invention may be 50% by mass or less, preferably 45% by mass or less, and more preferably 40% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0167] The amount of (e) oil in the composition according to the present invention may be within the range of 1 mass % to 50 mass %, preferably 5 mass % to 45 mass %, and more preferably 10 mass % to 40 mass %, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0168] (water) The composition according to the present invention may comprise (f) water.
[0169] The amount of (f) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 30% by mass or more, preferably 35% by mass or more, more preferably 40% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0170] On the other hand, the amount of (f) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 80% by mass or less, preferably 70% by mass or less, more preferably 60% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0171] The amount of (f) water in the composition according to the present invention can be within the range of 30% by mass to 80% by mass, preferably 35% by mass to 70% by mass, and more preferably 40% by mass to 60% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0172] (pH) The pH of the composition according to the invention may be less than or equal to 8.0, preferably less than or equal to 7.5, more preferably less than or equal to 7.0, measured at 25°C.
[0173] The pH of the composition according to the invention may be greater than or equal to 5.0, preferably greater than or equal to 5.5, more preferably greater than or equal to 6.0, measured at 25°C.
[0174] The pH of the composition according to the invention, measured at 25° C., may be between 5.0 and 8.0, preferably between 5.5 and 7.5, more preferably between 6.0 and 7.0.
[0175] Alkaline agent: The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one alkaline agent. Two or more alkaline agents may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of alkaline agent or a combination of different types of alkaline agents may be used.
[0176] The alkaline agent may be an inorganic alkaline agent. The alkaline agent is preferably non-volatile. The inorganic alkaline agent is preferably selected from the group consisting of alkali metal hydroxides; alkaline earth metal hydroxides; and alkali metal phosphates and monohydrogen phosphates, such as sodium phosphate or sodium monohydrogen phosphate.
[0177] Examples of inorganic alkali metal hydroxides include sodium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, and potassium hydroxide. Examples of alkaline earth metal hydroxides include calcium hydroxide and magnesium hydroxide. As inorganic alkaline agents, sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide are preferred.
[0178] The alkaline agent may be an organic alkaline agent, preferably selected from the group consisting of monoamines and diamines.
[0179] Examples of monoamines include alkanolamines, such as 1-3 hydroxyalkyl (C 1 ~C 4 In particular, the alkanolamine may be selected from monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, and tris(hydroxymethylamino)methane.
[0180] Diamines have the following structural formula (B):
[0181] [ka]
[0182] [Wherein W is hydroxyl or C 1 ~C 4 represents an alkylene, such as propylene, optionally substituted with an alkyl group; R a , R b , R c and R d are independently a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group or C 1 ~C 4 represents a hydroxyalkyl group] which may be exemplified by 1,3-propanediamine and its derivatives.
[0183] The amount of alkaline agent in the composition according to the invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0184] On the other hand, the amount of alkaline agent in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, more preferably 5% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0185] Therefore, the amount of the alkaline agent in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by mass, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by mass, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0186] acid: The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one acid. Two or more acids may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of acid or a combination of different types of acids may be used.
[0187] Acids may be used to adjust the pH of compositions according to the invention.
[0188] The acid may include any inorganic or organic acid commonly used in cosmetics, such as citric acid, lactic acid, sulfuric acid, phosphoric acid or hydrochloric acid (HCl), with HCl being preferred.
[0189] The amount of acid in the composition according to the invention may be greater than or equal to 0.01% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 0.05% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0190] On the other hand, the amount of acid in the composition according to the invention may be less than or equal to 15% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 10% by weight, more preferably less than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0191] Therefore, the amount of acid in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by mass, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by mass, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0192] [Additional Optional Ingredients] The compositions according to the invention may also comprise effective amounts of additional optional ingredients conventionally known elsewhere in cosmetic compositions, such as, for example, anionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactants; organic powders different from component (d); thickeners different from component (a); sequestering agents, such as EDTA and trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate; preservatives; vitamins or provitamins, for example panthenol; fragrances; and plant extracts.
[0193] The compositions according to the invention may comprise one or several cosmetically acceptable organic solvents, which may be alcohols, in particular monohydric alcohols, such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol and phenylethyl alcohol; diols, such as ethylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and butylene glycol; other polyols, such as glycerol, sugars and sugar alcohols; and ethers, such as ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ether and butylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ether.
[0194] The organic water soluble solvent may be present in an amount in the range of 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more, more preferably 1% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0195] The organic water soluble solvent may be present in an amount in the range of up to 20% by weight, preferably up to 15% by weight, more preferably up to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0196] The organic water-soluble solvent may be present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0197] It may be preferred that the composition according to the invention is free of phospholipids.
[0198] (Preparation and Properties) The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential components described above and, if necessary, the optional components described above.
[0199] The method and means of mixing the above essential components and optional components are not limited.Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential components and optional components to prepare the composition according to the present invention.Conventional methods and means can include homogenizers, such as turbine mixers.
[0200] (form) The compositions according to the invention may be in a variety of forms.
[0201] When the composition according to the present invention comprises (f) water, the composition according to the present invention may be a fluid, for example, an aqueous solution or dispersion, in which case the appearance of the composition according to the present invention may be a gel, since the (a) amphiphilic polymer and / or (b) polysaccharide may function as a thickener.
[0202] When the composition according to the present invention comprises (e) oil and (f) water, the composition of the present invention may be in the form of an emulsion, preferably an O / W emulsion or a W / O emulsion, more preferably an O / W emulsion.
[0203] The composition according to the invention in the form of an O / W emulsion may comprise a dispersed fatty phase, for example an oil phase, dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase. The dispersed fatty phase may be in the form of oil droplets in the aqueous phase. The composition according to the invention is preferably in the form of an O / W gel emulsion.
[0204] An O / W type constitution or structure consisting of a fatty phase dispersed in an aqueous phase has an aqueous phase on the outside, and therefore the composition according to the present invention having an O / W type constitution or structure can provide a pleasant sensation in use due to the immediate sensation of freshness that the aqueous phase can provide.
[0205] Furthermore, the composition according to the invention may be in the form of a multiple emulsion, for example an O / W / O emulsion or a W / O / W emulsion.
[0206] Furthermore, the composition according to the invention having an O / W constitution or structure may contain a multiple emulsion, for example an O / W / O / W emulsion.
[0207] The composition according to the invention in the form of an emulsion may have the appearance of a paste or cream.
[0208] The composition according to the present invention preferably has a viscosity of 10,000 mPa·s or more, more preferably 15,000 mPa·s or more, and even more preferably 20,000 mPa·s or more. The viscosity can be measured at 25°C using a Brookfield viscometer (e.g., rotor: No. 4, rotation speed: 6 rpm, measurement time: 1 minute).
[0209] It is also preferred that the composition according to the invention has a viscosity at 25° C. of 200,000 mPa·s or less, more preferably 150,000 mPa·s or less, and even more preferably 100,000 mPa·s or less.
[0210] It may be preferred that the composition according to the present invention has a viscosity at 25° C. of 10,000 mPa·s to 200,000 mPa·s, more preferably 15,000 mPa·s to 150,000 mPa·s, and even more preferably 20,000 mPa·s to 100,000 mPa·s.
[0211] [Method and Use] The composition according to the invention is preferably a cosmetic composition, more preferably a cosmetic composition for keratinous materials such as the skin.
[0212] The compositions according to the invention may be used for non-therapeutic methods, such as cosmetic methods for treating keratinous materials, such as the skin, hair, mucous membranes, nails, eyelashes, eyebrows and / or scalp, by application to the keratinous materials.
[0213] The present invention therefore also relates to a cosmetic method for treating keratinous materials, preferably the skin, comprising the step of applying to the keratinous materials a composition according to the invention.
[0214] The present invention may also relate to the use of a composition according to the invention as or in a cosmetic product, such as a care product for the skin of the body and / or face, and / or mucous membranes, and / or the scalp, and / or the hair, and / or the nails, and / or the eyelashes, and / or the eyebrows.
[0215] In other words, the composition of the present invention can be used as a cosmetic as it is. Alternatively, the composition according to the present invention can be used as one component of a cosmetic. For example, the composition according to the present invention can be added to or combined with any other component to form a cosmetic.
[0216] The care products may be lotions, creams and the like.
[0217] The present invention also relates to a composition for producing a texture transformation of the composition and / or for stabilizing the composition when applied to a keratinous material, e.g., the skin, preferably at the initial stage of application: (b) at least one polysaccharide derived from a microorganism; (c) at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having at least one hydroxyl group in the polyglyceryl moiety, the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of 7.0 or less, preferably 6.5 or less, more preferably 6.0 or less; The present invention may relate to the use of (a) at least one amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic unit in a composition comprising:
[0218] The present invention also relates to a composition for producing a texture transformation of the composition and / or for stabilizing the composition when applied to a keratinous material, e.g., the skin, preferably at the initial stage of application: (a) at least one amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic unit; (c) at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having at least one hydroxyl group in the polyglyceryl moiety, the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of 7.0 or less, preferably 6.5 or less, more preferably 6.0 or less; The present invention may also relate to the use of (b) at least one polysaccharide derived from a microorganism in a composition comprising:
[0219] The present invention also relates to a composition for effecting a texture transformation of the composition when applied to a keratinous material, e.g., skin, preferably at an early stage of application: (a) at least one amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic unit; (b) at least one polysaccharide derived from a microorganism; The present invention may also relate to the use of (c) at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having at least one hydroxyl group in the polyglyceryl moiety, the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of 7.0 or less, preferably 6.5 or less, more preferably 6.0 or less, in a composition comprising the above compound.
[0220] The amount of (c) at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having at least one hydroxyl group in the polyglyceryl moiety, having an HLB value of 7.0 or less, preferably 6.5 or less, more preferably 6.0 or less, in the composition according to the present invention is preferably 0.5% by weight or less, more preferably 0.4% by weight or less, even more preferably 0.3% by weight or less, in order to provide the composition with a less sticky feel.
[0221] The composition used in the above-mentioned use according to the invention may preferably comprise (d) at least one filler.
[0222] The composition used in the above-mentioned uses according to the invention may preferably comprise (e) an oil.
[0223] The composition used in the above-mentioned use according to the invention may preferably comprise (f) at least one water.
[0224] The explanations regarding the components (a) to (f) in the composition according to the present invention can be applied to the explanations regarding the uses according to the present invention above. EXAMPLES
[0225] The present invention will now be described in further detail by way of examples, which should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.
[0226] (Examples 1 to 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4) The following compositions in the form of O / W emulsions according to Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-4 shown in Table 1 were prepared by mixing the components shown in Table 1 as follows. (1) Mix the ingredients in column A of Table 1 at 75-80°C to form a homogeneous mixture (phase A); (2) Add the ingredients in column B of Table 1 to the homogenous mixture (phase A), followed by homogenization to obtain a homogenous mixture (phases A and B); (3) adding 80% of the ingredients in column C of Table 1 to the homogenous mixture (phases A and B), which are then homogenized to obtain a homogenous mixture (phases A, B and 80% C); (4) Cool the homogenous mixture (phases A, B and 80% C) to room temperature; (5) adding ingredients from column D of Table 1, if present, to the homogenous mixture (phases A, B and 80% C), followed by homogenization to obtain a homogenous mixture (phases A, B, 80% C and D); (6) adding the ingredients in column E of Table 1 to the homogenous mixture (phases A, B, 80% C, and D), followed by homogenization to obtain a homogenous mixture (phases A, B, 80% C, D, and E) having a pH of 6.5; (7) mixing 20% of the components in column C of Table 1, and, if present, the components in column F of Table 1, followed by homogenization to obtain a uniform mixture (20% C and F phase); (8) The homogeneous mixture (20% C and F phases) is gradually added to the homogeneous mixture (A, B, 80% C, D and E phases) using a propeller mixer to obtain a homogeneous mixture (A, B, C, D, E and F phases) as a composition according to any one of Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-4.
[0227] The amounts of the components shown in Table 1 are all based on the mass percent of the raw materials. (a) to (f) in Table 1 correspond to those within the scope of the claims.
[0228] [Table 1]
[0229] NA: Not measurable
[0230] [evaluation] (viscosity) The viscosity of each of the compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4 was measured at room temperature (25° C.) using a Brookfield viscometer under the conditions of a rotor No. 4, a rotation speed of 6 rpm, and a measurement time of 1 minute.
[0231] The results are shown in Table 1.
[0232] (Texture conversion) Five expert panelists evaluated the "texture transformation" during application of the compositions according to Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-4. Each panelist took each composition and applied it in a circular pattern on their face. The panelists evaluated the timing of the texture transformation (from cream to liquid) and rated it from 1 (bad) to 5 (very good), then classified it into the following four categories based on the average of the ratings: Very good: 5.0-4.0 (texture transformation is clearly felt at the early stage of application) Good: 3.9-3.0 (texture transformation is felt at the early stage of application) Poor: 2.9 to 2.0 (texture transformation is difficult to feel at the initial stage of application) Very poor: 1.9 to 1.0 (no texture transformation felt at the initial stage of application)
[0233] The results are shown in Table 1.
[0234] (Non-adhesive feeling) Five expert sensory testers evaluated the "non-sticky feeling" after application of the compositions according to Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-4. Each sensory tester took each composition, applied it to their own face, evaluated the non-sticky feeling after application, and ranked it from 1 (bad) to 5 (very good), and then classified it into the following four categories based on the average of the ratings. Very good: 5.0-4.0 (no sticky feeling at all after application) Good: 3.9-3.0 (not sticky after application) Poor: 2.9 to 2.0 (stickiness felt after application) Very poor: 1.9 to 1.0 (stickiness is clearly felt after application)
[0235] The results are shown in Table 1.
[0236] (stability) Each composition according to Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-4 was filled into a glass bottle and kept for two months under temperature variations of 4° C., 25° C., 37° C., and 45° C. Each sample was then inspected for the degree of change (appearance, color, and odor) and evaluated according to the following criteria: Very good: Almost as good as when manufactured. Good: Almost no change was observed in appearance, color or odor. Poor: A clear change in appearance, color, and odor was observed. Very poor: Significant changes in appearance, color and odor were observed.
[0237] The results are shown in Table 1.
[0238] (summary) As is evident from Table 1, the compositions according to the present invention (Examples 1-2) can provide excellent cosmetic effects in terms of texture transformation during application, non-sticky feel, and stability under temperature changes for 2 months, which can be attributed to the combination of components (a)-(c). Thus, the compositions according to the present invention can provide, in particular, excellent hand feel, and long-term stability even under temperature changes.
[0239] The composition according to Example 2 is preferable to the composition according to Example 1 in terms of non-tacky feel after application due to the presence of the component (d) filler.
[0240] On the other hand, the composition according to Comparative Example 1, which does not contain component (a) (an amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic unit), showed poor texture transformation and instability. In addition, the viscosity of the composition according to Comparative Example 1 could not be measured due to phase separation.
[0241] The composition according to Comparative Example 2, which did not contain component (b) (a polysaccharide derived from a microorganism), showed poor texture transformation and instability.
[0242] The composition according to Comparative Example 3, which did not include component (c) (a low HLB polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having at least one hydroxyl group in the polyglyceryl moiety), showed poor texture transformation.
[0243] The composition according to Comparative Example 4, which did not contain component (c) but contained a high HLB polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having at least one hydroxyl group in the polyglyceryl moiety, showed poor texture transformation.
Claims
1. (a) at least one amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic unit; (b) at least one polysaccharide derived from a microorganism; (c) at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having at least one hydroxyl group in the polyglyceryl moiety; A composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, more preferably a dermocosmetic composition, comprising: (c) the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having at least one hydroxyl group in the polyglyceryl moiety has an HLB value of 7.0 or less, preferably 6.5 or less, more preferably 6.0 or less; composition.
2. (a) an amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic unit, 8~30 2. The composition of claim 1, comprising an alkyl (meth)acrylate and at least one of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, and esters thereof.
3. 3. The composition of claim 1, wherein the amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic unit is crosslinked.
4. 4. The composition of claim 1, wherein the amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic unit is selected from the group consisting of (acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate) crosspolymer, (acrylates / ethylhexyl acrylate) crosspolymer, (C8-22 alkyl acrylate / methacrylic acid) crosspolymer, (acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate) crosspolymer K, (acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate) crosspolymer Na, and mixtures thereof.
5. 5. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the amount of (a) amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic unit in the composition is from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. 6. The composition of claim 1, wherein the (b) polysaccharide derived from a microorganism is selected from the group consisting of sclerotium gum, xanthan gum, and mixtures thereof.
7. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the amount of (b) polysaccharide derived from a microorganism in the composition is 0.01% by mass to 10% by mass, preferably 0.05% by mass to 5% by mass, more preferably 0.1% by mass to 1% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
8. 8. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having at least one hydroxyl group in the polyglyceryl moiety is selected from polyglyceryl polyricyleate, polyglyceryl fatty acid esters derived from two or more fatty acids, and mixtures thereof.
9. 9. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having at least one hydroxyl group in the polyglyceryl moiety is selected from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-6 polyricileate, polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate, and mixtures thereof.
10. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the amount of (c) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having at least one hydroxyl group in the polyglyceryl moiety in the composition is from 0.1% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% by weight to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1% by weight to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
11. 11. The composition of claim 1, further comprising: (d) at least one filler.
12. 12. The composition of claim 1, further comprising: (e) at least one oil.
13. 13. The composition of claim 1, further comprising: (f) water.
14. 14. The composition according to claim 13, which is in the form of an O / W emulsion.
15. A cosmetic method for treating keratinous materials, comprising the step of applying a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14 to the keratinous materials.
Citation Information
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