Hair treatment composition

The hair treatment composition addresses hair damage by using surfactants and amino acid complexes to rebuild hydrogen bonds and increase protein denaturation temperature, effectively reducing breakage and restoring hair health.

JP2026516969APending Publication Date: 2026-05-27UNILEVER IP HLDG BV

Patent Information

Authority / Receiving Office
JP · JP
Patent Type
Applications
Current Assignee / Owner
UNILEVER IP HLDG BV
Filing Date
2024-04-19
Publication Date
2026-05-27

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing hair treatment compositions often cause damage to hair proteins due to chemical and mechanical stress, leading to changes in structural and physical properties, and there is a need for compositions that can repair this damage without causing further harm.

Method used

A hair treatment composition comprising surfactants, amino acid complexes, and fiber active complexes, specifically using anionic, amphoteric, nonionic, and cationic surfactants, along with amino acids like glutamic acid, serine, glycine, and cysteine, to repair and rebuild hydrogen bonds in hair proteins, increasing the protein denaturation temperature and reducing breakage.

Benefits of technology

The composition effectively repairs hair damage by rebuilding hydrogen bonds, reducing breakage by up to 95% compared to non-conditioning shampoos, and raises the protein denaturation temperature to match that of virgin hair with repeated use.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.

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Abstract

Use of hair treatment compositions comprising anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, nonionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, cationic surfactants, or combinations thereof, for repairing damage to hair proteins in hair; amino acid complexes containing glutamic acid, serine, glycine, cysteine, and histidine; and fiber-activating complexes.
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Description

Technical Field

[0001] This specification discloses the use of a hair treatment composition for repairing damage to hair proteins in hair. The hair treatment composition used includes a surfactant, an amino acid complex, and a fiber active complex. The surfactant can include an anionic surfactant, an amphoteric surfactant, a nonionic surfactant, an ampholytic surfactant, a cationic surfactant, or a combination thereof. The amino acid complex can include glutamic acid, serine, glycine, cysteine, and histidine.

Background Art

[0002] Consumers regularly perform intensive treatment, care, and styling routines on their hair to achieve a desired appearance. Such consumer behavior causes denaturation of the chemical properties of hair keratin proteins, resulting in micro and macro structural changes, and ultimately changes in the physical properties of the fibers. These results are generally recognized by consumers as damage.

[0003] When hair is combed or brushed, the cuticle of the fiber is mechanically worn down, becoming coarser and increasing its frictional properties. Hair lightening, such as bleaching or coloring treatments, generally involves an oxidation reaction that decomposes melanin to produce a new hair color, but these processes also oxidize the hair fiber proteins and endogenous lipids. These reactions change the number and type of covalent and non-covalent bonds within the fiber, affecting the thermal stability and mechanical properties of the hair. The internal proteins of damaged hair typically have a lower denaturation temperature compared to those of virgin hair.

[0004] Various organic molecules and their combinations have been proposed for use in treating damaged hair.

[0005] International patent application WO2004 / 054526 describes a hair treatment composition comprising disaccharides (particularly trehalose) for the care and repair of damaged hair and for improving the manageability of the hair.

[0006] International patent application WO2004 / 054525 describes a hair treatment composition comprising disaccharides (particularly trehalose) and diols (particularly 3-methyl-1,3-butanediol) for the care and repair of damaged hair and for improving the manageability of the hair.

[0007] International patent application WO2009 / 040240 discloses a hair treatment composition comprising lactones and disaccharides for treating dry, damaged, and / or unruly hair.

[0008] U.S. Patent No. 11,612,554 discloses a composition comprising (a) at least one negatively charged amino acid and its derivative, (b) at least one positively charged amino acid and its derivative, (c) at least one silicone copolymer, and (d) at least one emulsifier.

[0009] The Super Damage Repair Hair Care Set (MintelRecord ID: 847566) is a set that includes shampoo, conditioner, and hair pack. Formulated with 12 different amino acids, the kit cleanses, nourishes, and repairs hair from within.

[0010] Korean Patent Application No. KR2010 / 0028722A discloses a hair loss prevention agent comprising a placental extract and an amino acid mixture, as well as a composition for improving hair damage or moisturizing hair, more specifically, a hair loss prevention agent comprising a placental extract, a mixture of 17 amino acids, and pitotearyl / octyldodecyl lauryl glutamimate, as well as a composition for improving hair damage or moisturizing hair.

[0011] Mintel's No Wash Recovery Cream Treatment (RecordID: 9304246) is a convenient, rinse-free cream-type treatment that can be used on wet hair and does not require rinsing as it contains a cleansing finish. It bleaches and detangles damaged hair while protecting it with a long-acting protein-binding complex formulated with hydrolyzed silk, keratin, collagen protein, and five types of plant proteins. It contains a seaweed complex, natural proteins, argan oil, and almond oil to provide shine and heat protection while enabling smooth combability of bleached hair.

[0012] International patent application publication number WO2012 / 054029 discloses a hair repair composition containing a polymer electrolyte complex. It also discloses its use, manufacturing method, efficacy testing method, and media methods involved in hair repair.

[0013] In the hair straightening composition (Croda International Plc), research disclosure database number 644038, December 2017, an active ingredient sold by Croda Europe Limited under the trade names Kereffect (trademark) SD, INCi: Aqua (and) Hydrolyzed Keratin is disclosed, which is a keratin-derived protein that has been hydrolyzed and further modified to contain a vanthe salt portion. This material is recommended for use as an agent to improve the hair straightening performance of products containing sodium sulfite, which is used as a reducing agent to cleave disulfide bonds in hair.

[0014] U.S. Patent Publication 2019 / 0167548A1 discloses an agent (M) for the treatment of keratin fibers, particularly human hair, the agent (M) comprising, on a cosmetic carrier basis, (a) one or more aliphatic polyhydric alcohols in a total weight of about 1.0 to about 40.0% by weight of the agent (M), and (b) one or more cyclic carbonates in a total weight of about 1.0 to about 20.0% by weight of the agent (M), wherein the weight ratio (a) / (b) of the total amount of aliphatic polyhydric alcohols (a) in the agent (M) to the total amount of cyclic carbonates (b) in the agent (M) is about 40 to about 1. [Prior art documents] [Patent Documents]

[0015] [Patent Document 1] WO2004 / 054526 [Patent Document 2] WO2004 / 054525 [Patent Document 3] WO2009 / 040240 [Patent Document 4] U.S. Patent No. 11,612,554 [Patent Document 5] Korean Patent Application No. KR2010 / 0028722A [Patent Document 6] WO2012 / 054029 [Patent Document 7] U.S. Patent Publication No. 2019 / 0167548A1 [Overview of the Initiative] [Problems that the invention aims to solve]

[0016] There is always a desire to provide hair treatment compositions that not only do not damage the hair, but also repair existing damage. [Means for solving the problem]

[0017] Various uses of hair treatment compositions are disclosed.

[0018] The hair treatment composition may include anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, nonionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, cationic surfactants, or combinations thereof; amino acid complexes containing glutamic acid, serine, glycine, cysteine, and histidine; and fiber-active complexes for repairing damage to hair proteins in the hair.

[0019] These and other features and characteristics are described in more detail below. [Modes for carrying out the invention]

[0020] This specification discloses the use of hair treatment compositions. The hair treatment compositions used may include surfactants, amino acid complexes, and fiber actives. The amino acid complex may include glutamic acid, serine, glycine, cysteine, and histidine. The use of hair treatment compositions can repair damage to hair proteins. For example, the use of hair treatment compositions can repair or replace (e.g., rebuild) hydrogen bonds that may have been broken due to damage or stress to the hair. For example, damage repair may involve repairing hydrogen bonds in the hair after use of the hair treatment composition, or damage repair may involve rebuilding hydrogen bonds in the hair after use of the hair treatment composition. These hydrogen bonds may be internal cortical bonds. These hydrogen bonds may be external cuticle bonds. For example, damage repair may involve repairing bonds and / or strengthening hair with just one application of the hair treatment composition. After using the hair treatment composition, treated hair may experience 75% or more, preferably 85% or more, and more preferably 95% or more less breakage compared to hair treated with a non-conditioning shampoo. The hair treatment composition can be used to raise the protein denaturation temperature inside the hair. Applying the composition to the hair multiple times (e.g., at least 5 times) can result in gradual damage repair, including the repair or replacement of more hydrogen bonds and an increase in the protein denaturation temperature. It is also possible to raise the protein denaturation temperature to the same level as or higher than that of virgin hair.

[0021] The hair may be virgin hair or damaged hair. Virgin hair as disclosed herein means hair that has not been subjected to strong physical and / or chemical treatments, such as bleaching, dyeing (color treatment), perming, heat treatment, and strong and / or prolonged exposure to sunlight (ultraviolet exposure), and does not exhibit the characteristics of damaged hair, such as split ends and / or excessive dryness. Virgin hair includes hair that has suffered low levels of damage during its natural life cycle. Causes of low levels of damage may include, but are not limited to, natural processes such as washing, brushing, combing, and photodegradation by limited sunlight. The hair is preferably damaged hair.

[0022] Damage can be caused by mechanical means such as combing or brushing, chemical means, exposure to heat, environmental means such as sunlight, and exposure to harmful energy sources such as light, such as ultraviolet light. Chemical means include treatments that involve oxidation reactions, such as hair lightening and coloring treatments such as bleaching. Preferably, the hair is bleached, and more preferably, it is bleached multiple times.

[0023] Hair can be of any type, including straight, wavy, curly, or tightly curled or coiled. Straight hair (also called Type 1 hair) is shiny and resilient. Straight hair is characterized by its fine texture and brittleness, and is very difficult to curl. Wavy hair (also called Type 2 hair) has loose "S" shaped curls. Its shine falls between that of straight and curly hair, and it can have a fine to thick texture. Wavy hair tends to frizz more easily than Type 1 hair. Curly hair (also called Type 3 hair) has loose curls to spiral curls, which are typically defined as a "round S". This type of hair is prone to frizz and is very susceptible to damage. If curly hair is not properly cared for, the curls may become less defined and appear frizzy. Tightly curled or coiled hair (also called Type 4 hair) is characterized by tightly curled, stiff curls (or a curl pattern that is not visible at all). It is dense and very brittle. Tight curls and coiled hair have a "Z" shape, and typically, they are sharply bent rather than the gentle curls seen in wavy or curly hair. Tight curls and coiled hair often shrink when wet and are more susceptible to damage than other hair types because they have fewer cuticle layers.

[0024] The surfactants in the hair treatment composition may include anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, nonionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, cationic surfactants, or combinations thereof. The surfactants may be present in amounts of 1 to 60% by weight, e.g., 2 to 50% by weight, e.g., 2 to 40% by weight, e.g., 2 to 37% by weight, e.g., 2 to 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, and include all ranges and values ​​within these ranges. The amount of surfactants may vary depending on whether the end-use product is a shampoo, conditioner, leave-in conditioner, mask, serum, etc.

[0025] Hair treatment compositions may be free of sulfate-based surfactants. In this specification, “substantially free” or “essentially free” means an amount of 1% by weight or less, for example, 0.5% by weight or less, for example, 0.25% by weight or less, for example, 0.1% by weight or less, for example, 0.01% by weight or less, for example, 0% by weight, on a total weight basis of the hair treatment composition.

[0026] shampoo The shampoo compositions disclosed herein are generally aqueous, that is, they have water or an aqueous solution or a lyotropic liquid crystal phase as their main component.

[0027] Preferably, the shampoo composition may contain 50-98% by weight, for example, 55-90% by weight, of water based on the total weight of the composition.

[0028] The shampoo compositions disclosed herein generally contain one or more anionic cleansing surfactants that are acceptable as cosmetics and desirable for topical application to hair.

[0029] Examples of anionic cleansing surfactants include alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkaryl sulfonates, alkanoyl isethionates, alkyl succinates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, N-alkyl sarcosinates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl ether phosphates, alkyl ether carboxylic acids and their salts, particularly their sodium, magnesium, ammonium, and mono, di, and triethanolamine salts. Alkyl and acyl groups generally contain 8 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 16, and may be unsaturated. Alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether phosphates, and alkyl ether carboxylic acids and their salts may contain 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units or propylene oxide units per molecule.

[0030] In one embodiment of the hair treatment composition, the anionic surfactant may include sodium lauroyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl isethionate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium laureth sulfate, sodium pareth sulfate, alpha-olefin sulfonates (AOS) (e.g., sodium alpha-olefin sulfonate), or combinations thereof. Such anionic surfactants are commercially available from suppliers such as Galaxy Surfactants, Clariant, Sino Lion, Stepan Company, and Innospec. In one embodiment, the hair treatment cleansing composition is substantially sulfate-free.

[0031] Other anionic cleansing surfactants for use in the shampoo compositions disclosed herein may include sodium oleylsuccinate, ammonium lauryl sulfosuccinate, sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl ether sulfate, sodium lauryl ether sulfosuccinate, ammonium lauryl sulfate, ammonium lauryl ether sulfate, sodium dodecylbenzenesulfonate, triethanolamine dodecylbenzenesulfonate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium lauryl isethionate, lauryl ether carboxylic acid, and sodium N-lauryl sarcosinate.

[0032] Furthermore, the anionic cleansing surfactant may include sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl ether sulfate (n)EO (n is 1-3), sodium lauryl ether sulfosuccinate (n)EO (n is 1-3), ammonium lauryl sulfate, ammonium lauryl ether sulfate (n)EO (n is 1-3), sodium cocoyl isethionate, and lauryl ether carboxylic acid (n)EO (n is 10-20).

[0033] Anionic surfactants may include sodium lauroyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl isethionate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium methyl lauroyl taurate, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium α-olefin sulfonate, or combinations thereof.

[0034] A mixture of any of the aforementioned anionic cleansing surfactants can be used.

[0035] The total amount of anionic cleansing surfactants present in the shampoo composition of the hair treatment composition may be 0.5 to 45%, for example, 1.5 to 35%, for example, 5 to 20%, for example, 12 to 20%, for example, 15 to 20% of the total weight of the composition, and includes all ranges and values ​​contained therein.

[0036] Optionally, the shampoo composition of the hair treatment composition may contain further ingredients described to enhance performance and / or consumer acceptability.

[0037] The composition may contain a cosurfactant that helps impart aesthetic, physical, or cleaning properties to the composition.

[0038] An example of a co-surfactant is a nonionic surfactant, which may be included in the composition in an amount of 0.5 to 8% by weight, preferably 2 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight, and encompasses all ranges and values ​​within that amount.

[0039] For example, typical nonionic surfactants that can be included in a shampoo composition of a hair treatment composition include aliphatic (C8-C) surfactants. 18 Examples include condensation products of primary or secondary linear or branched alcohols or phenols with alkylene oxides (usually ethylene oxides, typically containing 6 to 30 ethylene oxide groups).

[0040] Other representative nonionic surfactants include monoalkylalkanolamides or dialkylalkanolamides. Examples include cocomonoethanolamide or cocodiethanolamide, and cocomonoisopropanolamide.

[0041] Further nonionic surfactants that can be included in the shampoo composition of the hair treatment composition include alkyl polyglycosides (APGs). Typically, APGs contain alkyl groups linked (optionally via crosslinking groups) to a block of one or more glycosyl groups. Preferred APGs are defined by the following formula:

number

[0042] In the formula, R is a branched or linear alkyl group which may be saturated or unsaturated, and G is a sugar group.

[0043] R has an average alkyl chain length of approximately C 5~ Approximately C 20 Preferably, R has an average alkyl chain length of C8~C 12 Most preferably, the value of R is 9.5 to 10.5. G can be selected from a C5 or C6 monosaccharide residue, preferably a glucoside. G may be selected from the group including glucose, xylose, lactose, fructose, mannose, and their derivatives. Preferably, G is glucose.

[0044] The degree of polymerization n can take values ​​from approximately 1 to approximately 10 or more. Preferably, the value of n is approximately 1.1 to approximately 2. Most preferably, the value of n is approximately 1.3 to approximately 1.5.

[0045] Suitable alkyl polyglycosides are commercially available, such as substances called ORAMIX (trademark) NS10 (manufactured by Seppic), PLANTAREN (trademark) 1200, and PLANTAREN (trademark) 2000 (manufactured by Henkel).

[0046] Other nonionic surfactants derived from sugars that can be included in the composition include, for example, C10 - C18 N-alkyl (C1 - C6) polyhydroxy fatty acid amides as described in International Patent Application No. WO1992 / 06154 and U.S. Patent No. 5,194,639, such as C 12 ~C 18 N-methylglucamide, and C 10 ~C 18 N-alkoxypolyhydroxy fatty acid amides such as N-(3-methoxypropyl) glucamide.

[0047] Preferred examples of the co-surfactant are amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, which can be included in an amount of 0.5 - 20% by weight, for example 1 - 18% by weight, for example 5 - 18% by weight, for example 10 - 18% by weight, for example 12 - 28% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and values included therein.

[0048] Amphoteric surfactants (which can be zwitterionic depending on pH) include sodium acyl amphoacetate, sodium acyl amphopropionate, disodium acyl amphodiacetate, and disodium acyl amphodipropionate, etc., and the acyl group (i.e., alkanoyl group) can contain a C7 - C 18 alkyl moiety. Exemplary examples of amphoteric surfactants include sodium lauroamphoacetate, sodium cocoamphoacetate, or combinations thereof.

[0049] With respect to the amphoteric surfactants used in this hair treatment composition, such surfactants contain at least one acidic group. Such acidic groups may be carboxyl groups or sulfonic acid groups. They often contain quaternary nitrogen and can therefore be quaternary amino acids. They generally contain an alkyl or alkenyl group with 7 to 18 carbon atoms and generally follow the overall structural formula shown below. [ka]

[0050] In the formula, R 6 R is an alkyl or alkenyl with 7 to 18 carbon atoms; 7 and R 8 Each of the following is independently an alkyl, hydroxyalkyl, or carboxyalkyl group having 1 to 3 carbon atoms; q is 2 to 4; r is 0 to 1; A is an alkylene group having 1 to 3 carbon atoms, which may be substituted with a hydroxyl group; and B is -CO2- or -SO3-.

[0051] A suitable amphoteric surfactant for use in cleansing compositions disclosed herein and within the range of the above general formula is a simple betaine of the following formula: [ka]

[0052] and the amidobetaine of the following formula: [ka]

[0053] (In the formula, t is either 2 or 3.)

[0054] In both equations, R 6 , R 7 and R 8 This is defined as above. R 6 In particular, C derived from coconut oil 12 and C 14Since it can be a mixture of alkyl groups, R 6 At least half of the group, preferably at least three-quarters, has 10 to 14 carbon atoms. 7 and R 8 It is preferably methyl.

[0055] Further possibilities include amphoteric surfactants such as sulfobetaine, as shown in the following formula: [ka]

[0056] or [ka]

[0057] [In the formula, u is 2 or 3.], or -(CH2)3SO3 - -CH2C(OH)(H)CH2SO3 - These are the modified forms that are replaced by them.

[0058] In these equations, R 6 , R 7 and R 8 This is as defined above.

[0059] Examples of amphoteric surfactants desirable for use include betaines such as lauryl betaine, citrate betaine, cocodimethylcarboxymethyl betaine, cocoamidopropyl betaine, cocoalkyldimethyl betaine, and laurylamidopropyl betaine. Additional amphoteric surfactants suitable for use include cocoamidopropyl sultaine, such as cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine. Preferred amphoteric surfactants include lauryl betaine, citrate betaine, sodium hydroxymethylglycinate, (carboxymethyl)dimethyl-3-[(1-oxododecyl)amino]propylammonium hydroxide, cocoalkyldimethyl betaine, (carboxymethyl)dimethyloleylammonium hydroxide, cocoamidopropyl betaine, (carboxymethyl)dimethyloleylammonium hydroxide, cocoamidopropyl betaine, (carboxylatomethyl)dimethyl(octadecyl)ammonium, cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, or combinations thereof. The most preferred amphoteric surfactants include cocodimethylcarboxymethyl betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, laurylamidopropyl betaine, cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, lauryl hydroxysultaine, cocamide monoethanolamide, or combinations thereof. Such surfactants are commercially available from suppliers such as Stepan Company, Solvay, and Evonik, and the use of mixtures of the aforementioned surfactants is within the scope of the cleansing compositions disclosed herein.

[0060] A mixture of any of the above amphoteric or amphoteric surfactants may also be used. A preferred mixture is cocamidopropyl betaine with one of the other amphoteric or amphoteric surfactants described above. A further preferred amphoteric or amphoteric surfactant is sodium cocoamphoacetate.

[0061] The total amount of surfactants (including any co-surfactants and / or any emulsifiers) in the shampoo composition of the hair treatment composition may be 1 to 50% by weight, for example 2 to 40% by weight, for example 10 to 40% by weight, for example 10 to 35% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, and includes all ranges and values ​​contained therein.

[0062] Cationic polymers are preferred components in shampoo compositions of hair treatment compositions for enhancing conditioning performance.

[0063] The desirable cationic polymer may be a cation-substituted homopolymer, or a homopolymer formed from two or more monomers. The weight-average molecular weight (M) of the polymer. w The molecular weight is between 100,000 and 2,000,000 Daltons. These polymers have cationic nitrogen-containing groups such as quaternary ammonium groups, protonated amino groups, or combinations thereof. If the molecular weight of the polymer is too low, the conditioning effect is poor. On the other hand, if it is too high, the extensional viscosity when the composition is poured will be high, which can cause problems such as stringing of the composition.

[0064] Cationic nitrogen-containing groups can generally be present as substituents on some of the total monomer units of a cationic polymer. Therefore, if the polymer is not a homopolymer, it can contain non-cationic monomer units as spacers. Such polymers are listed in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Directory, 3rd edition. The ratio of cationic to non-cationic monomer units is selected to obtain a polymer with the desired range of cationic charge density (generally 0.2–3.0 milliequivalents / gram (meq / gm)). The cationic charge density of a polymer is preferably measured by the Kjeldahl method described under the Chemical Tests for Nitrogen Measurement in the United States Pharmacopeia.

[0065] Desirable cationic polymers include, for example, copolymers of vinyl monomers having cationic amines or quaternary ammonium functional groups with water-soluble spacer monomers such as (meth)acrylamide, alkyl and dialkyl(meth)acrylamide, alkyl(meth)acrylate, vinylcaprolactone, and vinylpyrrolidine. The alkyl and dialkyl-substituted monomers preferably have C1-C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1-C3 alkyl groups. Other suitable spacers include vinyl esters, vinyl alcohols, maleic anhydride, propylene glycol, and ethylene glycol.

[0066] Cationic amines can be primary, secondary, or tertiary amines, depending on the specific chemical species and the pH of the composition. Generally, secondary and tertiary amines, particularly tertiary amines, are preferred.

[0067] Amine-substituted vinyl monomers and amines can be polymerized in amine form and then converted to ammonium by quaternization.

[0068] Cationic polymers may include mixtures of monomer units derived from amines and / or quaternary ammonium-substituted monomers and / or compatible spacer monomers.

[0069] Suitable cationic polymers include, for example, - Cationic diallyl quaternary ammonium-containing polymers, such as dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymers and copolymers of acrylamide and dimethyldiallylammonium chloride (referred to as polyquaternium-6 and polyquaternium-7 in the industry (CTFA), respectively); Mineral salts of aminoalkyl esters of homopolymers and copolymers of unsaturated carboxylic acids having 3 to 5 carbon atoms (as described in U.S. Patent No. 4,009,256); - Cationic polyacrylamide (as described in International Application No. WO95 / 22311); - A cationic diallyl quaternary ammonium polymer (PQ-10) containing a quaternary ammonium polymer salt of hydroxyethylcellulose reacted with a trimethylammonium substituent; -PQ-28 (Polyvinylpyrrolidone-methylacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride) These are some examples.

[0070] Other cationic polymers that can be used include cationic polysaccharide polymers such as cationic cellulose derivatives, cationic starch derivatives, and cationic guar gum derivatives.

[0071] Cationic polysaccharide polymers suitable for use in the compositions disclosed herein include monomers of the following formula: [ka]

[0072] In the formula, A is an anhydrous glucose residue, such as an anhydrous glucose residue of starch or cellulose. R is an alkylene group, an oxyalkylene group, a polyoxyalkylene group, or a hydroxyalkylene group, or a combination thereof. 1 , R 2 and R 3 R independently represents an alkyl group, aryl group, alkylaryl group, arylalkyl group, alkoxyalkyl group, or alkoxyaryl group, with each group having a maximum of approximately 18 carbon atoms. The total number of carbon atoms in each cationic moiety (i.e., R) 1 , R 2 and R 3 The total number of carbon atoms is preferably about 20 or less, and X is an anionic counterion.

[0073] Other types of cationic cellulose include high molecular weight quaternary ammonium salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with lauryldimethylammonium substituted epoxides, which are known in the industry (CTFA) as polyquaternium-24. These materials are available from Amerchol Corporation, for example, under the trademark name Polymer LM-200.

[0074] Other suitable cationic polysaccharide polymers include quaternary nitrogen-containing cellulose ethers (e.g., those described in U.S. Patent No. 3,962,418) and copolymers of etherified cellulose and starch (e.g., those described in U.S. Patent No. 3,958,581).

[0075] Particularly suitable cationic polysaccharide polymers that can be used are cationic guar gum derivatives such as guar hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride (commercially available from Rhodia under the JAGUAR trademark series). Examples of such materials include JAGUAR(trademark) C13S, JAGUAR(trademark) C14, JAGUAR(trademark) C15, and JAGUAR(trademark) C17.

[0076] A mixture of the cationic polymers described above can also be used.

[0077] The cationic polymer is present in the shampoo composition of the hair treatment composition at a cationic polymer level of 0.01 to 5%, preferably 0.05 to 1%, more preferably 0.08 to 0.5% by total weight of the composition, and this includes all ranges and values ​​contained herein.

[0078] The aqueous shampoo composition of the hair treatment composition may further contain a suspending agent. Preferred suspending agents are selected from polyacrylic acid, crosslinked polymers of acrylic acid, copolymers of acrylic acid and hydrophobic monomers, copolymers of carboxylic acid-containing monomers and acrylic acid esters, crosslinked copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylic acid esters, heteropolysaccharide gums, and crystalline long-chain acyl derivatives. Preferably, the long-chain acyl derivatives are selected from ethylene glycol stearate, alkanolamides of fatty acids having 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof. Ethylene glycol distearate and polyethylene glycol 3-distearate are preferred long-chain acyl derivatives because they impart a pearly luster to the composition. Polyacrylic acid is commercially available as CARBOPOL™ 420, CARBOPOL™ 488, or CARBOPOL™ 493. Acrylic acid polymers crosslinked with polyfunctional agents can also be used. These are commercially available as CARBOPOL™ 910, CARBOPOL™ 934, CARBOPOL™ 941, and CARBOPOL™ 980. A suitable copolymer of carboxylic acid-containing monomers and acrylic acid esters is CARBOPOL™ 1342. All CARBOPOL™ materials are available from Goodrich.

[0079] Suitable crosslinking polymers of acrylic acid and acrylic acid esters include PEMULEN® TR1 or PEMULEN® TR2. A suitable heteropolysaccharide gum is xanthan gum, which is available as Kelzan mu, for example.

[0080] A mixture of any of the above suspensions can also be used. Preferably, it is a mixture of a crosslinked polymer of acrylic acid and a crystalline long-chain acyl derivative.

[0081] The suspension can generally be present in the shampoo composition of a hair treatment composition at a suspension level of 0.1 to 10% by weight, for example, 0.5 to 6% by weight, for example, 0.9 to 4% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, and this includes all ranges and values ​​contained therein.

[0082] Conditioner (rinse-off, leave-in, mask, oil, serum) The conditioner composition typically contains one or more cationic conditioning surfactants that are acceptable as cosmetics and suitable for topical application to hair.

[0083] Preferably, the cationic conditioning surfactant is of formula N + (R 1 )(R 2 )(R 3 )(R 4 ) has, in the formula, R 1 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4 (C1~C 30 ) It is alkyl or benzyl.

[0084] R 1 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4 One, two, or three of these can be used independently (C4~C 30 ) is alkyl, and other R 1 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4 The group is (C1-C6) alkyl or benzyl.

[0085] Comfortable, R 1 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4 One or two of them independently (C6~C 30 ) is alkyl, and other R 1 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4The group is a (C1-C6) alkyl or benzyl group. Optionally, the alkyl group may contain one or more ester (-OCO- or -COO-) and / or ether (-O-) bonds in the alkyl chain. The alkyl group may optionally be substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups. The alkyl group may be linear or branched, and if it has three or more carbon atoms, it may be cyclic. The alkyl group may be saturated and may contain one or more carbon-carbon double bonds (e.g., oleyl). The alkyl group may be ethoxylated on the alkyl chain with one or more ethyleneoxy groups.

[0086] The hair treatment composition may contain, by total weight, 0.01 to 10% by weight of a primary linear cationic conditioning surfactant selected from Structure 1 and mixtures thereof, including all ranges and values ​​contained therein. [ka]

[0087] During the ceremony, R1 comprises a linear alkyl chain with a carbon-carbon chain length of C16-C24, preferably C18-C22; R2 comprises a proton or a linear alkyl chain having a carbon-carbon chain length of C1-C4, preferably C1-C2, or a benzyl group; X is an organic or inorganic anion.

[0088] Preferably, the carbon-carbon chain length of R1 in structure 1 differs from the carbon-carbon chain length of R3 in structure 2 by 3 to 12, more preferably 4 to 12, even more preferably 6 to 12, and most preferably 6 to 10 carbon atoms, so that the carbon-carbon chain length of R1 in structure 1 is longer than that of R3 in structure 2.

[0089] In Structure 1, the amine head group is charged within the final formulation. The starting materials contain chemical species whose charge is not permanent and can be induced by protonation in the formulation using a strong acid. If R2 is a proton in the above general formula, that proton may be present in the starting materials or associated with them during formulation.

[0090] Optionally, the alkyl group may have one or more ester (-OCO- or -COO-), amide (-NOC- or NCO-), and / or ether (-O-) links in the alkyl chain. The alkyl group may optionally be substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups. The alkyl group may be linear or branched, and if it has three or more carbon atoms, it may be cyclic. The alkyl group may be saturated and may contain one or more carbon-carbon double bonds (e.g., oleyl). The alkyl group may optionally be ethoxylated on the alkyl chain with one or more ethyleneoxy groups.

[0091] Quaternary amine salts suitable for use in conditioner compositions are those containing 12 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 16 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0092] Suitable quaternary amine salts for use in conditioner compositions include cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, behenylamidopropyldimethylamine, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, tetramethylammonium chloride, tetraethylammonium chloride, octyltrimethylammonium chloride, dodecyltrimethylammonium chloride, hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride, octyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, decyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, stearyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, stearalkonium chloride, stearalkonium methosulfate, didodecyldimethylammonium chloride, dioctadecyldimethylammonium chloride, talotrimethylammonium chloride, dihydrogenated talodimethylammonium chloride (e.g., Arquad from Akzo Nobel). Examples include 2HT / 75, cocotrimethylammonium chloride, or combinations thereof.

[0093] Preferred quaternary amine salts can be selected from behentrimonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, or a combination thereof. Behentrimonium chloride can be used in combination with a solvent (e.g., isopropyl alcohol, dipropylene glycol, etc.) in the composition.

[0094] The composition may contain a linear cationic copolymer according to Structure 2. [ka]

[0095] During the ceremony, R2 comprises a proton, a linear alkyl chain with a carbon chain length of C1-C4, preferably C1-C2, or a benzyl group; R3 is C3~C 16(However, C16 is not included), preferably C 10 ~C 14 It comprises a straight alkyl chain having a carbon-carbon chain length; • X is an organic or inorganic anion; The carbon-carbon chain length of R1 in structure 1 differs from that of R3 in structure 2 by at least three carbon atoms, meaning that the carbon-carbon chain length of R1 in structure 1 is longer than that of R3 in structure 2; The molar ratio of the linear cationic co-surfactant (iv) to the linear cationic conditioning main surfactant (i) is 1:20 to 1:1, preferably 1:10 to 1:1, and preferably 1:5 to 1:2.

[0096] Preferably, the carbon-carbon chain length of R1 in structure 1 differs from the carbon-carbon chain length of R3 in structure 2 by 3 to 12 units, more preferably 4 to 12 units, even more preferably 6 to 12 units, and most preferably 6 to 10 units, so that the carbon-carbon chain length of R1 in structure 1 is longer than the carbon-carbon chain length of R3 in structure 2.

[0097] R3 is C3~C 16 (However, C16 is not included), preferably containing a linear alkyl chain having a carbon-carbon chain length of C3 to C14, more preferably C6 to C14, even more preferably C8 to C14, and most preferably C10 to C14.

[0098] Linear cosurfactants may be present in amounts of 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 2% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 1.0% by weight, and most preferably 0.2 to 0.7% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, and include all ranges and values ​​contained therein.

[0099] X is an organic or inorganic anion. Preferably, X is a halide ion; general formula RSO3 - It comprises sulfates (where R is a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms) and anions selected from the anionic groups of organic acids.

[0100] Preferred halide ions are selected from fluorides, chlorides, bromides, and iodides. Preferred organic acid anionic groups are selected from maleic acid, fumaric acid, oxalic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, and acetic acid. Preferred sulfates are methanesulfonates and ethanesulfonates.

[0101] Most preferably, X - This includes an anion selected from a halide, a methanesulfonate group, and an ethanesulfonate group.

[0102] In a preferred embodiment, ·R3 has a carbon chain length of C 10 ~C 14 Containing saturated or unsaturated linear alkyl chains; R2 contains a proton or an alkyl chain having a carbon-carbon chain length of C1-C2; X is selected from halides, methanesulfonates, and ethanesulfonates.

[0103] One example of a suitable material according to Structure 2 is dodecyltrimethylammonium chloride.

[0104] Cationic conditioning surfactants suitable for use in conditioner compositions for hair treatments include quaternary ammonium compounds, amine salts, or combinations thereof. Cationic surfactants include behentrimonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, tetramethylammonium chloride, tetraethylammonium chloride, octyltrimethylammonium chloride, dodecyltrimethylammonium chloride, hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride, octyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, decyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, stearyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, didodecyldimethylammonium chloride, dioctadecyldimethylammonium chloride, tallow trimethylammonium chloride, dihydrogenated tallow dimethylammonium chloride, and cocotrimethylammonium May include ammonium chloride, PEG-2-oleammonium chloride and their corresponding hydroxides, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl diethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl diethylamine, palmitamidoethyl diethylamine, palmitamidoethyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl diethylamine, behenamidoethyl diethylamine, behenamidoethyl dimethylamine, arachidamidopropyl dimethylamine, arachidamidopropyl diethylamine, arachidamidoethyl diethylamine, arachidamidoethyl dimethylamine, and / or combinations thereof.

[0105] Further suitable cationic surfactants include substances containing Quaternium-5, Quaternium-31, and Quaternium-18 as designated by CTFA. Mixtures of any of these substances may also be suitable. Cationic surfactants used in conditioners may include commercially available cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, such as GENAMIN CTAC from Hoechst Celanese. Another cationic surfactant used in conditioners may include commercially available behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, such as GENAMIN KDMP from Clariant.

[0106] Another example of a suitable cationic conditioning surfactant is a combination of (i) and (ii) below, either alone or with one or more other cationic conditioning surfactants.

[0107] (i) Amidoamines corresponding to general formula (I): [ka]

[0108] [In the formula, R 1 It is a hydrocarbyl chain having 10 or more carbon atoms, R 2 and R 3 These are independently selected from hydrocarbyl chains of 1 to 10 carbon atoms. m is an integer between 1 and approximately 10. (ii) Acid.

[0109] As used herein, the term "hydrocarbyl chain" means an alkyl chain or an alkenyl chain.

[0110] Preferred amidoamine compounds are: R 1 These are hydrocarbyl residues having 11 to 24 carbon atoms. R 2 and R 3Each of these is independently a hydrocarbyl residue having 1 to about 4 carbon atoms, preferably an alkyl group. This is a compound corresponding to formula (I), where m is an integer between 1 and 4.

[0111] Preferably, R 2 and R 3 This is either a methyl group or an ethyl group.

[0112] Preferably, m is 2 or 3, i.e., an ethylene or propylene group.

[0113] Preferred amidoamines useful in the present invention include stearamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldimethylamine, or combinations thereof.

[0114] Particularly preferred amidoamines useful in the present invention are stearamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, or a combination thereof.

[0115] Commercially available amide amines useful for the present invention include stearamidopropyldimethylamine, trade name LEXAMINE (trademark) S-13, available from Inolex (Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, USA); stearamidoethyldiethylamine, trade name AMIDOAMINE (trademark) MSP and AMIDOAMINE (trademark) S, available from Nikko (Tokyo, Japan); behenamidopropyldimethylamine, trade name INCROMINE (trademark) BB, available from Croda (North Humberside, UK); and various amide amines in the SCHERCODINE (trademark) series, available from Scher (Clifton, New Jersey, USA).

[0116] Acid (ii) can be an organic or mineral acid capable of protonating the amidoamine in the hair treatment composition. Suitable acids useful for the present invention include hydrochloric acid, acetic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, succinic acid, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the acid is selected from the group consisting of acetic acid, tartaric acid, hydrochloric acid, fumaric acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0117] The main role of the acid is to protonate the amidoamine in the hair treatment composition, thereby forming a tertiary amine salt (TAS) in the hair treatment composition at In-Sights. The TAS is substantially a non-permanent quaternary ammonium or pseudoquaternary ammonium cationic surfactant.

[0118] Preferably, the acid is present in an amount sufficient to protonate all of the amide amines present, i.e., at least equimolar to the amount of amide amines present in the composition.

[0119] In a conditioner of a hair treatment composition, the level of cationic conditioning surfactant can be 0.01 to 10% by total weight of the composition, for example, 0.05 to 7.5%, for example, 0.1 to 6%, for example, 1 to 6%, and includes all ranges and values ​​within these ranges.

[0120] Conditioners typically contain aliphatic alcohols. In conditioning compositions, the combined use of aliphatic alcohols and cationic surfactants is considered particularly effective because it forms a lamellar phase in which the cationic surfactant is dispersed.

[0121] Typical fatty alcohols contain 8 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably 16 to 22 carbon atoms. Fatty alcohols are typically compounds containing linear alkyl groups. Examples of desirable fatty alcohols include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, or combinations thereof. The use of these substances is also advantageous in that they contribute to the overall conditioning properties of the hair treatment composition.

[0122] The level of fatty alcohol in the conditioners disclosed herein can be 0.01 to 10% by weight of the composition, for example, 0.1 to 8% by weight, for example, 0.2 to 7% by weight, for example, 0.3 to 6% by weight, and includes all ranges and values ​​within these ranges. The weight ratio of cationic surfactant to fatty alcohol can be 1:1 to 1:10, for example, 1:1.5 to 1:8, for example, 1:2 to 1:5. If the weight ratio of cationic surfactant to fatty alcohol is too high, the composition may cause eye irritation. If it is too low, some consumers may experience a stiff or squeaky feeling in their hair.

[0123] amino acid The hair treatment composition may contain amino acids that may be basic amino acids, acidic amino acids, aliphatic amino acids, aromatic amino acids, neutral amino acids, or combinations thereof. The term "amino acid" refers to a molecule that contains both an amino group and a carboxyl group. Amino acids may belong to the L-series or D-series, or may be in racemic form.

[0124] The total amount of amino acids present in the hair treatment composition may be 0.005 to 10% by weight, for example 0.05 to 2% by weight, for example 0.1 to 1.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, and includes all ranges and values ​​contained therein.

[0125] Basic amino acids Hair treatment compositions may contain basic amino acids.

[0126] "Basic amino acids" refer to amino acids that contain more basic groups (amino groups, amidino groups, guanidino groups, etc.) than carboxyl groups. Examples of such basic amino acids include natural and artificial diaminomonocarboxylic acids such as α-, β-diaminopropionic acid, α-, γ-diaminobutyric acid, lysine, arginine, histidine, ornithine, and p-aminophenylalanine.

[0127] Basic amino acids are often isolated from natural resources in the form of salts or hydrated salts, which are also suitable for use. Such salts and hydrated salts are produced by reactions with mineral acids such as hydrochloric acid, phosphoric acid, carbonic acid, sulfuric acid, and nitric acid, or with organic acids such as formic acid, acetic acid, lauric acid, and chloroacetic acid. An example is arginine hydrochloride.

[0128] Other derivatives, such as N-substituted derivatives and peptide derivatives, can also be used. These can also be used as salts or hydrated salts. Examples of N-substituted derivatives include N-alkanoyl derivatives and N-alkyl derivatives. Typically, in N-alkanoyl derivatives, the alkanoyl group has an alkyl chain length of 3 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably 4 to 10 carbon atoms, such as N-butanoyl, N-hexanoyl, and N-octanoyl. In N-alkyl derivatives, the alkyl group typically has an alkyl chain length of 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl, and n-propyl. Examples of peptide derivatives include those in which the peptide residue contains 2 to 8 amino acid residues or substituted amino acid residues.

[0129] A mixture of any of the above materials may also be used in the hair treatment composition.

[0130] Preferred basic amino acids for use in hair treatment compositions include arginine (e.g., L-arginine), histidine (e.g., L-histidine), or combinations thereof.

[0131] The total amount of basic amino acids in the hair treatment composition may be 0.005 to 10% of the total weight of the composition, for example, 0.05 to 1%, or for example, 0.1 to 0.4%, and may include all ranges and values ​​contained therein.

[0132] Acidic amino acids Hair treatment compositions may contain acidic amino acids. Acidic amino acids are amino acids with acidic side chains, specifically amino acids containing a carboxylic acid group with a pKa value low enough to lose a proton and become negatively charged. Furthermore, by their properties, acidic amino acids are both hydrophilic (meaning they have a high affinity for water, the opposite of hydrophobic amino acids) and polar (meaning they are positively charged, the opposite of nonpolar amino acids).

[0133] Acidic amino acids may include aspartic acid, glutamic acid (e.g., L-glutamic acid), or combinations thereof.

[0134] The total amount of acidic amino acids in the hair treatment composition may be 0.005 to 10% by total weight of the composition, for example, 0.1 to 0.4%, or for example, 0.1 to 0.3%, and includes all ranges and values ​​contained therein.

[0135] Fatty amino acids The hair treatment composition may contain aliphatic amino acids.

[0136] The term "aliphatic amino acid" refers to amino acids that have an aliphatic side chain.

[0137] An example of aliphatic amino acids suitable for use is the general formula: CH(COOH)(NHR1)(R2), where R1 is a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having an alkyl chain length of 1 to 20 carbon atoms, and R2 is a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

[0138] In the aliphatic amino acids preferred for use, R1 is an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and R2 is selected from H, -CH3, -CH(CH3)2, -CH2CH(CH3)2, and -CH(CH3)-CH2CH3.

[0139] Faliphatic amino acids may include alanine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, valine, or combinations thereof.

[0140] A mixture of any of the above materials may also be used in the hair treatment composition.

[0141] The total amount of aliphatic amino acids in the hair treatment composition can be 0.005 to 10% of the total weight of the composition, for example, 0.1 to 0.4% of the total weight of aliphatic amino acids, and includes all ranges and values ​​contained therein.

[0142] Aromatic amino acids Hair treatment compositions may contain aromatic amino acids. Aromatic amino acids (AAA) are amino acids that contain an aromatic ring.

[0143] Aromatic amino acids may include phenylalanine, tryptophan, tyrosine, or combinations thereof.

[0144] The total amount of aromatic amino acids in the hair treatment composition may be 0.005 to 10% of the total weight of the composition, for example, 0.1 to 0.4% of the total weight of aromatic amino acids, and includes all ranges and values ​​contained therein.

[0145] Neutral amino acids Hair treatment compositions may contain neutral amino acids. Neutral amino acids contain an equal number of amino groups and carboxyl groups.

[0146] The neutral amino acids may include asparagine, cysteine, glutamine, glycine, serine, threonine, or combinations thereof. A preferred material may be N-methylglycine (also known as sarcosine).

[0147] The total amount of neutral amino acids in the hair treatment composition may be 0.005 to 10% of the total weight of the composition, for example, 0.1 to 5%, for example, 0.1 to 2%, for example, 0.1 to 1%, for example, 0.1 to 0.5%, and includes all ranges and values ​​contained therein.

[0148] Fiber Active The hair treatment compositions disclosed herein may contain fiber actives. Fiber actives can penetrate into hair fibers and block moisture-adsorbing sites by steric means. By reducing moisture content, this can lead to improved biomechanical properties, such as increased hair strength. This mechanism works most effectively at low pH, as penetration into hair fibers is optimal. Smaller molecules have higher penetration. For example, citric acid, a carboxylic acid, penetrates hair and swells by binding to substrate proteins, resulting in smoother hair and reduced frizz. The same can be said for gluconolactone, which is converted to gluconic acid. Fiber actives can also penetrate hair fibers and influence changes such as protein denaturation and the formation of internal bonds, providing stiffness to the fibers. Acids such as fiber actives have an affinity for hair and can reduce moisture uptake by blocking sites where water is thought to adsorb in other cases.

[0149] Fiber Active may contain gluconic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, succinic acid, glycolic acid, adipic acid, or a combination thereof. Gluconic acid may contain sodium gluconate, and citric acid may contain sodium citrate.

[0150] Fiber Active may be present in amounts of 0.01 to 5% by weight, for example 0.05 to 4.0% by weight, for example 0.1 to 2.5% by weight, for example 0.1 to 2.0% by weight, based on the total weight basis of the hair treatment composition, and includes all ranges and values ​​contained therein.

[0151] Form of composition Hair treatment compositions can take the form of shampoos, conditioners (rinse-off, leave-in), masks, serums, pre-treatment compositions, or hair oils used before or after washing the hair. Typically, hair oils mainly contain water-insoluble oily conditioning materials such as triglycerides, mineral oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0152] Hair treatment compositions can also take the form of hair lotions, typically used between shampooing cycles. A lotion is an aqueous emulsion containing water-insoluble oily conditioning components. Desired surfactants may be added to the lotion to improve stability against phase separation.

[0153] The hair treatment composition may be in the form of a shampoo, rinse-off hair conditioner, hair mask, leave-in conditioner composition, and pre-treatment composition. The pH of the hair treatment composition may be 3 to 7, preferably 3 to 6, and more preferably 3 to 5.

[0154] Hair treatment compositions, particularly aqueous shampoos and hair conditioners, may also contain one or more silicone conditioning agents.

[0155] Particularly preferred silicone conditioning agents are silicone emulsions formed from silicones such as polydiorganosiloxanes, especially polydimethylsiloxane having the CTFA designation dimethicone, polydimethylsiloxane having a hydroxyl-terminated group with the CTFA designation dimethiconol, and amino-functional polydimethylsiloxane having the CTFA designation amodimethicone.

[0156] The emulsion droplets typically have a Sauter mean droplet diameter (D3,2) of 0.01 to 20 micrometers (μm), more preferably 0.2 to 10 μm, in the composition.

[0157] Sauter mean droplet diameter (D 3,2 A suitable method for measuring this is laser light scattering using instruments such as the Malvern Mastersizer.

[0158] Silicone emulsions suitable for use in the compositions disclosed herein are available from silicone suppliers such as Dow Corning and GE Silicones. The use of such pre-formed silicone emulsions is preferred to facilitate the processing and control of silicone particle size. Such pre-formed silicone emulsions typically further comprise suitable emulsifiers, such as anionic or nonionic emulsifiers, or mixtures thereof, and can be prepared by chemical emulsification processes such as emulsion polymerization, or by mechanical emulsification using a high-shear mixer. Sauter mean droplet size (D 3,2 A pre-formed silicone emulsion with a diameter of less than 0.15 micrometers is generally called a microemulsion.

[0159] Examples of suitable pre-formed silicone emulsions include emulsions DC2-1766, DC2-1784, DC-1785, DC-1786, DC-1788, and microemulsions DC2-1865 and DC2-1870, all available from Dow Corning. These are all dimethiconol emulsions / microemulsions. Amodimethicone emulsions such as DC2-8177 and DC939 (from Dow Corning) and SME253 (from GE Silicones) are also suitable.

[0160] For example, a silicone emulsion obtained by mixing certain high molecular weight surface-active block copolymers with silicone emulsion droplets, as described in international patent application number WO2003 / 094874, is also suitable. In such materials, the silicone emulsion droplets are preferably formed from the polydiorganosiloxane described above. One preferred form of the surface-active block copolymer is given by the following formula. [ka]

[0161] In the equation, the average value of x is 4 or greater, and the average value of y is 25 or greater.

[0162] Another preferred form of the surface-active block copolymer is given by the following formula: [ka]

[0163] In the formula, the average value of a is 2 or greater, and the average value of b is 6 or greater.

[0164] A mixture of any of the silicone emulsions mentioned above can also be used.

[0165] The silicone emulsion described above will generally be present in the compositions disclosed herein at a silicone level of 0.05 to 10%, preferably 0.05 to 5%, and more preferably 0.5 to 2% by total weight of the composition.

[0166] Other ingredients Hair treatment compositions may contain other ingredients to enhance performance and / or consumer acceptability. Such ingredients include fragrances, dyes and pigments, pH adjusters, pearlescent or opaque agents, viscosity modifiers, and preservatives or antimicrobial agents. Each of these ingredients will be present in an amount effective to achieve its purpose. Generally, these optional ingredients are included individually at a level of up to 5% by weight of the total composition.

[0167] The hair treatment composition of the present invention is intended to be applied topically to the hair and / or scalp of human subjects, either as a rinse-off or leave-in composition, primarily for the treatment of dry, damaged, and / or unmanageable hair.

[0168] The hair treatment composition may further contain up to 30% by weight of skin beneficial agents. The term "skin beneficial agent" is defined as a substance that softens or improves the elasticity, appearance and youthfulness of the skin (stratum corneum) by increasing the water content of the skin, adding or replacing lipids and other skin nutrients, or both, and keeps the skin soft by slowing the decrease in its water content. Suitable skin beneficial agents include, for example, hydrophobic emollients, hydrophilic emollients, or blends thereof. Preferred beneficial agents include humectants, emollients, sunscreens, and anti-aging compounds.

[0169] Preferably, optional skin beneficial agents used in the hair treatment compositions disclosed herein include niacinamide (vitamin B3), tocopherol (vitamin E), aloe vera, α-hydroxy acids and esters, β-hydroxy acids and esters, hydroxyethyl urea, polyhydroxy acids and esters, creatine, hydroquinone, t-butylhydroquinone, mulberry, hyaluronic acid and its salts (including, but not limited to, their Na+ and K+ salts), extracts, licorice extract, resorcinol derivatives, or combinations thereof. For example, a skin beneficial agent may be sodium hyaluronate. Such beneficial agents, including sodium hyaluronate, may be present in amounts of 0.0001 to 10%, e.g., 0.001 to 6.5%, e.g., 0.01 to 3.5%, e.g., 0.01% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition (including all values ​​and ranges encompassed therein).

[0170] Further optional water-soluble skin beneficial agents include acids such as amino acids like arginine, valine, or histidine. Other vitamins can be used, such as vitamin B2, picolinamide, panthenol (vitamin B5), vitamin B6, vitamin C, or combinations thereof. Derivatives (generally meaning something developed or obtained from something else), in particular water-soluble derivatives of such vitamins, can also be used. For example, vitamin C derivatives such as ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, and ascorbyl glycoside can be used alone or in combination with each other. Niacinamide derivatives such as nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NADH) and nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide phosphate (NADPH) may be used alone or in combination. Other skin beneficial agents that can be used include 4-ethyl resorcinol, extracts such as sage, aloe vera, green tea, sugarcane, citrus fruits, grape seed, thyme, chamomile, yarrow, cucumber, licorice, rosemary extract, or combinations thereof. Electrolytes such as NaCl and / or KCl, MgCl2, etc. may also be used. When present in the bars disclosed herein, the total amount of any water-soluble beneficial agents (including mixtures) may be 0.0001 to 10%, preferably 0.001 to 6.5%, and most preferably 0.01 to 3.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition (including all values ​​and ranges encompassed therein).

[0171] The hair treatment composition may also contain oil-soluble beneficial agents. Examples of types of oil-soluble beneficial agents that may be used in the hair treatment composition disclosed herein include ingredients such as stearic acid, and vitamins such as vitamins A, D, E, and K (and their oil-soluble derivatives).

[0172] Other optional oil-soluble beneficial agents for use include resorcinols and resorcinol derivatives, such as 4-hexylresorcinol, 4-phenylethylresorcinol, 4-cyclopentylresorcinol, 4-cyclohexylresorcinol, 4-isopropylresorcinol, or combinations thereof. Alternatively, 5-substituted resorcinols, such as 4-cyclohexyl-5-methylbenzene-1,3-diol, 4-isopropyl-5-methylbenzene-1,3-diol, or combinations thereof may be used. 5-substituted resorcinols and their synthesis are described in U.S. Patent Application Publication No. 2016 / 0000669 by the same applicant.

[0173] Other oil-soluble beneficial agents that can be used include omega-3 fatty acids, omega-6 fatty acids, crimbazole, magnolol, honokiol, farnesol, ursolic acid, myristic acid, geranylgeraniol, oleyl betaine, cocoyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, hexanoyl sphingosine, 12-hydroxystearic acid (12HSA), petroceric acid, conjugated linoleic acid, stearic acid, palmitic acid, lauric acid, and terpineol. Examples include thymol, an essential component, and dissolving agents selected from limonene, pinene, camphene, cymene, citronellol, citronellal, geraniol, nerol, linalool, rodinol, borneol, isoborneol, menthone, camphor, safrole, isosafrole, eugenol, isoeugenol, tea tree oil, eucalyptus oil, peppermint oil, neem oil, lemongrass oil, orange oil, bergamot oil, or combinations thereof.

[0174] Another optional oil-soluble beneficial agent that may be used is a retinoic acid precursor. The retinoic acid precursor may be retinol, retinal, retinyl ester, retinyl propionate, retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, or a combination thereof. Retinyl propionate, retinyl palmitate, and combinations thereof are typically preferred. Yet another retinoic acid precursor for use is hydroxyanathatyl retinoate, commercially available under the name RETEXTRA® supplied by Molecular Design International. This can be used in combination with any of the oil-soluble beneficial agents described herein.

[0175] When any (i.e., 0.0–1.5% by weight) oil-soluble beneficial agent is used in a hair treatment composition, it typically exists in an amount of 0.001–1.5% of the total weight of the hair treatment composition (including all values ​​and ranges contained therein), for example, 0.05–1.2% by weight of the total weight of the hair treatment composition, for example, 0.2–0.5% by weight.

[0176] Other useful skin beneficial agents include the following:

[0177] (a) Silicone oils such as linear and cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes and their modifiers; amino, alkyl, alkylaryl and aryl silicone oils; (b) Fats and oils including natural oils such as jojoba, soybean, sunflower, rice bran, avocado, almond, olive, sesame, peach, castor, coconut, and mink oil; cocoa butter; beef tallow, lard; hydrogenated oils obtained by hydrogenating the above oils; synthetic mono, di, and triglycerides such as myristic acid glyceride and 2-ethylhexanoic acid glyceride; (c) Waxes such as carnauba wax, whale wax, beeswax, lanolin and their derivatives; (d) Hydrophobic and hydrophilic plant extracts; (e) hydrocarbons such as liquid paraffin, petrolatum, microcrystalline wax, ceresin, squalene, pristane and mineral oil; (f) Lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, lanolic acid, isostearic acid, arachidonic acid, and higher fatty acids such as polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFAs); (g) higher alcohols such as lauryl, cetyl, stearyl, oleyl, behenyl, cholesterol, and 2-hexydecanol alcohol; (h) Cetyl octanoate, myristyl lactate, cetyl lactate, isopropyl myristate, myristyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl adipate, butyl stearate, decyl oleate, cholesterol isostearate, glycerol monostearate, glycerol monolaurylate, glycerol distearate, glycerol tristearate, alkyl lactate, alkyl citrate and alkyl tartrate esters; (i) Peppermint, jasmine, camphor, cypress, spruce, lily, turpentine oil, cinnamon, bergamot, Satsuma mandarin, sweet flag, pine, lavender, bay, clove, cypress, eucalyptus, lemon, starflower, thyme, peppermint, rose, sage, sesame, ginger, basil, juniper, lemongrass, rosemary, rosewood, avocado, grape, grape seed, myrrh, cucumber, watercress, calendula, elm Essential oils and extracts thereof, such as dwarf flower, geranium, linden, amaranth, seaweed, ginkgo, carrot, guarana, tea tree, jojoba, comfrey, oatmeal, cocoa, neroli, vanilla, green tea, pennyroyal mint, aloe vera, menthol, cineole, eugenol, citral, citronellol, borneol, linalool, geraniol, evening primrose, camphor, thymol, spiranthol, penene, limonene, and terpenoid oils; (j) Polyhydric alcohols such as glycerin, sorbitol, and propylene glycol; and polyols such as polyethylene glycol, for example, Polyox WSR-205 PEG 14M, Polyox WSR-N-60K PEG 45M, or Polyox WSR-N-750, and PEG 7M; (k) Lipids such as cholesterol, ceramides, sucrose esters and pseudoceramides as described in European Patent No. 556,957; (l) Vitamins, minerals, and skin nutrients such as milk, vitamin A, vitamin E, and vitamin K; vitamin alkyl esters including vitamin C alkyl ester; magnesium, calcium, copper, zinc, and other metallic components; (m) Sunscreens such as octyl methoxycinnamate (Parsol MCX) and butyl methoxybenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789); (n) phospholipids; and (o) Anti-aging compounds such as α-hydroxy acids and β-hydroxy acids.

[0178] Preferred skin-beneficial agents include fatty acids, hydrocarbons, polyhydric alcohols, polyols, and mixtures thereof, and contain at least one C 12 -C 18 Skin emollients comprising fatty acids, petrolatum, glycerol, sorbitol, and / or propylene glycol are of particular interest in one or more embodiments. These agents may be added at appropriate steps in the process of preparing a hair treatment composition. Some beneficial agents may be introduced as macrodomains.

[0179] Other optional ingredients such as antioxidants, fragrances, polymers, chelating agents, colorants, deodorizers, dyes, enzymes, foam boosters, disinfectants, antibacterial agents, foaming agents, pearlescent agents, skin conditioners, stabilizers, or superfatting agents may be added in appropriate amounts during the process of manufacturing the bars. Preferably, the ingredients are added after the saponification step. Sodium metabisulfite, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), borax, or ethylene hydroxydiphosphonic acid (EHDP) may be added to the formulation.

[0180] Further optional components that may be present in the hair treatment composition include, for example, fragrances; metal ion sequestering and chelating agents such as tetrasodium ethylenediaminetetraacetate (EDTA), ethane hydroxyl diphosphonate (EHDP), and etidronic acid, also known as 1-hydroxyethylidene diphosphonic acid (HEDP); colorants; opacifiers, and pearlescent agents, such as zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, TiO2, ethylene glycol monostearate (EGMS), ethylene glycol distearate (EGDS), or Lytron 621 (styrene / acrylate copolymer); pH adjusters; antioxidants, such as butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT); stabilizers; foaming agents, such as coconut acyl monoethanolamide or diethanolamide; ionized salts, such as sodium chloride and sodium sulfate, and other components conventionally used in hair treatment compositions. The total amount of such additional optional ingredients is typically 0–10% by weight, more specifically 0.1–5% by weight, based on the total weight of the personal cleansing formulation.

[0181] Preservatives may be used in the hair treatment compositions disclosed herein. Examples of preservatives for use include sodium benzoate, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, phenoxyethanol, hydroxyacetophenone, ethylhexylglycerin, methylparaben, propylparaben, imidazolidinyl urea, sodium dehydroacetate, dimethyl-dimethyl (DMDM) hydantoin, and benzyl alcohol, or combinations thereof. Other suitable preservatives include sodium dehydroacetate, chlorophenesin, and decylene glycol. The preservative is preferably used in an amount of 0.01% to 2.0% by weight of the total weight of the hair treatment composition (including all values ​​and ranges encompassed therein). Preservative systems including hydroxyacetophenone alone or in mixtures with other preservatives are also preferred.

[0182] Fragrances, fixatives, opacifiers (such as titanium dioxide or glycol distearate), and chelating agents may be included in the hair treatment composition. Possible chelating agents include, but are not limited to, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA), ethylenediamine disuccinic acid (EDDS), pentasodium diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid, trisodium N-(hydroxyethyl)-ethylenediamine tracetate, acidic forms of EDTA, sodium thiocyanate, trisodium salt of methylglycine diacetate, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, and phytic acid. Preferably, the chelating agent is ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA), ethylenediamine disuccinic acid (EDDS), or a combination thereof. Each of these substances may be present in an amount of about 0.03 to about 3%, preferably about 0.1 to about 2.6% by weight (including all values ​​and ranges encompassed therein) of the total weight of the hair treatment composition.

[0183] The hair treatment composition may contain a polymer electrolyte complex. This polymer electrolyte complex may contain a polyquaternium-10 and methacrylate copolymer.

[0184] The hair treatment compositions disclosed herein may be free from or substantially free from sulfates, parabens, phthalates, and / or petrolatum.

[0185] A hair treatment method using the disclosed hair treatment composition is conceivable. The hair treatment method may include applying the hair treatment composition disclosed herein to the hair in the form of a shampoo. The hair may be straight, wavy, curly, or tightly curled / coiled. The hair may be virgin hair or damaged hair. The damage may be any of the types of damage disclosed herein, such as bleaching. The shampoo may be rinsed off the hair after a period of less than 5 minutes, and then the hair treatment composition disclosed herein may be applied to the same hair in the form of a conditioner. The conditioner may be rinsed off the hair after a period of less than 5 minutes. The leave-in conditioner disclosed herein may be applied to the same hair and rinsed off after a period of less than 1 hour. The hair may then be dried at a relative humidity of 60% for at least 8 hours (e.g., air drying, blow drying, etc.). The above method may be repeated on the same hair up to 20 times.

[0186] Alternatively, any shampoo and conditioner may be used before applying the hair treatment composition disclosed herein to straight, wavy, curly, or tightly curled / coiled hair.

[0187] Alternatively, a hair treatment method may include applying a hair treatment composition disclosed herein to hair in the form of a shampoo. The hair may be straight, wavy, curly, or tightly curled / coiled. The hair may be virgin hair or damaged hair. The damage may be any of the types of damage disclosed herein, such as bleaching. The shampoo may be rinsed off the hair after a period of less than 5 minutes, and then a hair treatment composition disclosed herein in the form of a conditioner may be applied to the same hair. The conditioner may be rinsed off the hair after a period of less than 5 minutes. A leave-in conditioner disclosed herein may be applied to the same hair. The hair may then be dried at a relative humidity of 60% for at least 8 hours (e.g., air-dried, blow-dried, etc.). The above method may be repeated on the same hair up to 20 times.

[0188] Alternatively, any shampoo and conditioner may be used before applying the hair treatment compositions disclosed herein to straight, wavy, curly, or tightly curled / coiled hair.

[0189] The technical properties of hair change dramatically as a function of its water content. This occurs because water solvates hydrogen bonds and salt bridges that support secondary strength within the hair, leading to a decrease in mechanical properties and swelling of the fibers. Water also acts as a plasticizer for the protein structure in hair, reducing its resistance to breakage. Adsorption of water to hair proteins results in the breaking of hydrogen bonds. Styling is a result of the building / repairing of hydrogen bonds, and when hydrogen bonds are broken, the biomechanical properties and styling ability of the hair are impaired.

[0190] In each method, it was unexpectedly found that hydrogen bonds were re-established in the hair after completion of the method, that hydrogen bonds were repaired in the hair after completion of the method, or that hydrogen bonds were re-established and repaired upon completion of application of any of the methods disclosed herein to the hair.

[0191] The hair treatment compositions disclosed herein can provide a damage-repairing effect to chemically or mechanically damaged hair, regardless of hair type.

[0192] For example, gluconolactone (which is converted to gluconic acid) and carboxylic acids (e.g., citric acid) penetrate hair fibers and inhibit water adsorption through steric means. Since water is a plasticizer for hair, the ability to reduce water content should result in superior biomechanical properties. Acids have a high affinity for hair and reduce water uptake by blocking sites where water would otherwise be adsorbed (water breaks hydrogen bonds).

[0193] By incorporating amino acids into hair treatment compositions, the reconstruction of peptide links that support protein structures can be promoted. The basic side chain groups on arginine, histidine, and lysine, and the acidic side chain groups on aspartic acid and glutamic acid can be helpful in constructing tertiary and quaternary protein structures.

[0194] By using the hair treatment composition, long-lasting damage repair effects can be obtained, such as increasing the protein denaturation temperature or repairing or substituting hydrogen bonds. Long-lasting effect means that the effect persists over multiple treatments, preferably 2 to 5 treatments, compared to hair compositions that do not contain the amino acid mixture disclosed herein.

[0195] The hair treatment composition can be applied to the hair at least once. The hair treatment composition can be applied to the hair 1 to 5 times, for example 1 to 10 times, for example 1 to 20 times, for example 1 to 25 times.

[0196] Unexpectedly, after using the hair treatment composition disclosed herein once, hair breakage was reduced by 75% or more, preferably by 85% or more, compared to a non-conditioning shampoo, and more preferably by 95% or more compared to hair not treated with the hair treatment composition disclosed herein (using any of the methods disclosed herein).

[0197] After using the hair treatment compositions disclosed herein, an increase in the denaturation temperature of the internal proteins of the hair was observed.

[0198] This hair treatment composition increases the moisturizing properties of the hair by 50% or more, preferably 60% or more, and more preferably 50% to 90% or more, compared to a non-conditioning shampoo used on the same hair.

[0199] The hair treatment composition provides a frizz-suppressing effect for 6 hours or more, preferably 12 hours or more, and more preferably 24 hours or more.

[0200] Unless otherwise expressly indicated, all figures in this specification indicating the quantity of materials or reaction conditions, the physical properties of materials and / or use may be understood to be modified by the word “approximately.” All quantities are by weight of the final composition unless otherwise specified.

[0201] When specifying any range of concentration or quantity, it should be noted that any particular upper concentration can be associated with any particular lower concentration or quantity, and any sub-range within which such concentration is consumed. In this regard, it should be noted that all ranges disclosed herein include endpoints, and endpoints can be combined independently of each other (for example, "up to 25% by weight, or more specifically, the range from 5% by weight to 20% by weight includes the endpoint and all intermediate values ​​of the range from 5% by weight to 25% by weight"). Combinations include blends, mixtures, alloys, reaction products, etc. Furthermore, terms such as "first," "second," etc., in this specification do not indicate order, quantity, or importance, but are used to distinguish one element from another. The terms "a," "an," and "the" in this specification do not imply a limitation of quantity, and should be interpreted as encompassing both singular and plural forms unless otherwise indicated herein or unless clearly inconsistent with the context. As used herein, the suffix "(s)" includes both singular and plural forms of the term it modifies, thereby intending to include one or more of the term (for example, film(s) includes one or more films). Throughout this specification, references to “one embodiment,” “one aspect,” “another embodiment,” “another aspect,” “embodiment,” “aspect,” etc., mean that certain elements (e.g., features, structures, and / or properties) described in relation to an embodiment or aspect are included in at least one embodiment or aspect described herein, and may or may not be present in other embodiments or aspects. Furthermore, it should be understood that the elements described can be combined in any suitable way in various embodiments or aspects.

[0202] All cited patents, patent applications, and other references are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety. However, where any terminology in this application conflicts with or is in conflict with any terminology in an incorporated reference, the terminology in this application shall prevail over any conflicting terminology in an incorporated reference. While certain embodiments are described, alternatives, modifications, variations, improvements, and substantial equivalents may arise for the applicant or others skilled in the art that are not anticipated or may not be anticipated at present. Accordingly, the attached claims filed and any attached claims that may be amended are intended to encompass all such alternatives, modifications, variations, improvements, and substantial equivalents.

[0203] The term "comprising" is intended to mean "including," but does not necessarily mean "consisting of" or "composed of." In other words, the listed stages, options, or alternatives do not need to be exhaustive.

[0204] The disclosure of the present invention as presented herein should be considered to encompass all aspects found in the claims as multiple dependencies on one another, notwithstanding the fact that the claims may be found without multiple dependencies or redundancies. Unless otherwise specified, numerical ranges expressed in the form of “x to y” are understood to include x and y. When specifying any range of values ​​or quantities, any particular upper limit or quantity may be associated with any particular lower limit or quantity. All percentages and ratios contained herein are calculated in terms of weight unless otherwise specified. The various features of the present invention mentioned in the individual sections above are applied to other sections as appropriate and as necessary. Thus, a feature specified in one section may be combined with a feature specified in another section as necessary. Any section headings are added for convenience only and are not intended to limit the present disclosure in any way. [Examples]

[0205] The following examples are merely illustrative of the hair treatment compositions disclosed herein and are not intended to limit the scope of the invention.

[0206] Example I In this example, three sets of Type 1 hair were bleached twice. The control sample (ConS) was left untreated, the comparative samples (CompS1 and CompS2) were subjected to a two-step system of shampoo and conditioner, and the sample of the present invention (IS) was subjected to a three-step system of shampoo, conditioner, and leave-in conditioner using the formulations disclosed herein as shown in Tables 1, 2, and 3.

[0207] Table 1: Shampoo composition [Table 1]

[0208] Table 2: Conditioner composition [Table 2]

[0209] Table 3: Leave-in conditioner composition [Table 3]

[0210] Hair strands Hair strands were commercially obtained from International Hair Importers, reflecting two years of chemical damage. The ConS sample was washed with a non-conditioning shampoo. CompS1 and CompS2 samples were washed with different commercially available shampoos and conditioners. For IS, shampooing and conditioning were performed as disclosed in Tables 1 and 2.

[0211] Next, each sample was combed 1,000 times with a comb during the wet-to-dry stage, and the overall split ends were measured (as a function of 1,000 comb passes of the sample). The results for the shampoo and conditioner are shown in Table 4.

[0212] Table 4: Split Ends by Shampoo and Conditioner

Table 4

[0213] As can be seen from Table 4, the samples of the present invention show a significant reduction in the number of split ends of the hair compared to ConS, CompS1, and CompS2, indicating that even when using only the shampoos and conditioners disclosed in this specification, excellent protection of damaged hair can be provided.

[0214] In Table 5, after the samples were treated with shampoo and conditioner, the leave-in conditioner shown in Table 3 was applied to the hair and not rinsed out. It should be noted that in this three-component system, the shampoos and conditioners used can be any shampoos and conditioners and do not have to be those disclosed in Tables 1 and 2.

[0215] Table 5: Bond Breakage of Shampoo, Conditioner, and Leave-in Conditioner

Table 5

[0216] As can be seen from Table 5, in the three-component system described above, the breakage is significantly less compared to the control sample, with a 96% reduction in breakage.

[0217] Denaturation temperature Hair Treatment Hair samples C1, C1, and C2, which had been bleached twice, were first treated twice with an aqueous composition containing 0.1 mL / g of 14% sodium laureth ether sulfate (SLES) (0.1 mL per gram of hair). This was followed by lathering for 30 seconds and rinsing with tap water for 30 seconds. Virgin hair was also tested.

[0218] Next, Sample 1 was treated with the compositions shown in Tables 1 and 2 using the following method.

[0219] Lather 0.1 mL / 1 g on your hair for 30 seconds, then rinse with tap water for 30 seconds.

[0220] Next, Sample 2 was treated with the compositions shown in Table 3 according to the method described below.

[0221] Apply 0.2 mL / 1 g to hair for 60 seconds, then rinse with tap water for 60 seconds.

[0222] Afterward, the hair was dried overnight at 20°C and 60% relative humidity.

[0223] Effects of the process The effects of the treatment were measured using differential scanning calorimetry (DSC).

[0224] Table 6: Mean denaturation temperature and change in denaturation temperature based on one use (1X) [Table 6]

[0225] As shown in Table 6, Sample 1 (shampoo and conditioner only) showed an increased temperature at which keratin proteins denatured compared to C1 treated with non-conditioning shampoo only, indicating that continued use of these formulations had a positive effect on the structure and integrity of the proteins. Sample 2 (leave-in conditioner only) also showed an increased temperature at which keratin proteins denatured compared to non-conditioning shampoo. The leave-in conditioner also had a positive effect on the structure and integrity of the proteins.

[0226] As shown in Table 7, similar results were obtained even when washing was repeated 5 times (5×) and 10 times (10×).

[0227] As shown in Table 7, Sample 1 (shampoo and conditioner only) showed an increase in the temperature at which the keratin protein denatured, compared to C1 which used only a non-conditioning shampoo, indicating that continued use of these formulations had a beneficial effect on the structure and integrity of the protein. Sample 2 (leave-in conditioner only) also showed an increase in the denaturation temperature of the keratin protein compared to the non-conditioning shampoo. The leave-in conditioner also had a beneficial effect on the structure and integrity of the protein.

[0228] Table 7: Average denaturation temperature and change in denaturation temperature based on 5 washes (5X) and 10 washes (10X)

Table 7

[0229] Example II ATR-FTIR surface analysis In this example, the effect of a specific hair treatment on the hydrogen bond network on the surface or inside of hair fibers was investigated by attenuated total reflection (ATR) spectroscopy and / or ATR-Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (ATR-FTIR).

[0230] ATR-FTIR data was recorded using a PerkinElmer Spotlight System 400 with an ATR accessory. Spectra were recorded with the following spectral parameters.

[0231] Spectral resolution 8 / cm (cm -1 ) Accumulation of 256 scans Range 4000 - 650 cm -1 For all hair bundles examined, Twelve scans were performed along the length of the tuft (four near the base, four along the middle, and four near the tip).

[0232] The control sample was untreated mixed-blood bleached hair.

[0233] Sample analysis was performed on hair strands treated with the hair treatment compositions disclosed herein.

[0234] The spectra collected for each hair strand were averaged, and the peak positions and second derivative spectra were analyzed using Thermo Scientific GRAMS spectroscopy software.

[0235] Hyperspectral images were recorded with the following spectral parameters.

[0236] Approximately 10 cross-sections of 6-8 micrometers (μm) were obtained from both the control and treated samples using a cryostat.

[0237] ATF-FTIR imaging parameters The spatial resolution was 6.25 μm.

[0238] The spectral resolution is 8 cm. -1 That was the case.

[0239] Accumulated data from 64 scans.

[0240] Hair treatment protocol: Each treatment group used medium brown bleached hair strands provided by International Hair Importers and prepared by TRI. Each hair strand measured 8 inches (approximately 20 cm) in length, 1 inch (approximately 2.5 cm) in width, and weighed approximately 3 g.

[0241] 1. Bleached and standardized all four hair sections with 0.15 mL of non-conditioning shampoo, massaged, and rinsed each section under IntelliFauset water for 30 seconds.

[0242] 2. Fifty fibers were taken from each cluster and used as a control for cross-sectional cutting.

[0243] 3. Shampoo and Conditioner: With wet hair, lather 10% w / v Scarlet shampoo in the hair for 30 seconds, then rinse with IntelliFauset water for 30 seconds each. With wet hair, comb 15% w / v Scarlet conditioner through the hair 10 times, leave on for 3 minutes, then rinse with IntelliFauset water for 30 seconds each.

[0244] Leave-in: Apply 5.0% w / v Scarlet Leave-in #1 to wet hair in sections. Comb the solution through the hair about 10 times, leave it on for 1 hour to dry, then rinse with 0.15 mL of non-conditioning shampoo.

[0245] After 4-5 treatments, the hair was left overnight at 60% relative humidity to dry.

[0246] 5. Steps 1-3 were repeated four times for a total of five cycles. Between cycles 2-4, the hair was dried with a hairdryer on low heat for 10 minutes until completely dry.

[0247] After 6.5 treatments, the hair was dried overnight at 60% relative humidity.

[0248] 7. Hold 50 fibers to create a cross-section.

[0249] System 1: Shampoo + Conditioner (disclosed in Tables 9 and 10) System 2: Leave-in Conditioner C The test was conducted after applying the solution five times.

[0250] The hair samples used in the test were as follows:

[0251] 1. Control group - Untreated hair (bleached medium brown hair) 2. Hair (bleached medium brown hair) treated five times with shampoo and conditioner (disclosed in Tables 9 and 10).

[0252] 3. Hair treated five times with leave-in (disclosed in Tables 9 and 10) (bleached medium brown hair).

[0253] ATR-FTIR analysis-hair surface analysis Table 8 shows the band locations from measurements performed for the control, shampoo and conditioner (SH+CD), and leave-in conditioner for the mean surface ATR scan (surface ATR scans primarily characterized the cuticle). The bands used to characterize both the contribution of hydrogen bonding and changes in protein conformation were mainly the amide A band (approximately 3726 cm²) resulting from NH2 stretching. -1 The bands were amide I and amide II (which showed band shifts arising from hydrogen bonding independent of protein conformation). Both amide I and amide II were useful in diagnosing both the conformation and hydrogen bonding of the protein backbone, as well as environmental contributions. The amide I band was approximately 1640 cm². -1 The contribution of ) is mainly due to C=O stretching from the protein backbone, and the amide II band (approximately 1530 cm) -1 Since the contribution of these bands is almost entirely due to CN stretching, these bands showed different sensitivities to hydrogen bonding and the protein environment. Additionally, the CH stretching region of the IR spectrum, which is useful for determining whether residual products remain after washing, is also shown.

[0254] Table 8: Location of the amide band by ATR-FTIR measurement [Table 8]

[0255] The shift of amide A from the control surface on both surfaces treated with SH+CD (System 1) and surfaces treated with Leave-in (System 2) was equivalent in wavenumber for the control, SH+CD, and Leave-in. While we do not wish to be constrained by theory, it is conceivable that these equivalent values ​​were simply due to residues left on the cuticle by the two treatments, and therefore, in the absence of residues, lower wavenumbers would have been observed for both System 1 and System 2.

[0256] For the relative second derivative from System 1 to System 2, there was a slight shift to lower wavenumbers.

[0257] From Table 8, No significant changes in hydrogen bonding were observed in either hair treatment (System 1 and System 2).

[0258] Compared to the control group, the wavenumber in amide I is slightly lower in the treatment group (total 0.2 cm). -1 ).

[0259] From the second derivative spectrum, the alpha helix is ​​shifted to a slightly lower wavenumber than the symmetric helix.

[0260] No particular trend is observed in the second derivative shift of amide II.

[0261] Significant accumulation has been observed in these hair treatments, and especially in leave-in treatments, which can greatly affect spectroscopic analysis (surface analysis).

[0262] ATR-FTIR imaging spectroscopy-hair cross-section analysis The same treatment was applied to the fibers that had been cut into cross-sections.

[0263] System 1: SH+CD A decrease in the wavenumber of the amide A band was observed overall, indicating an increase in hydrogen bonding with system 1 (e.g., 3305 cm⁻¹).-1 from 3290 cm -1 )。

[0264] System 2: Leave-in conditioner It was observed that the wavenumber of the amide A band was generally decreased, which indicated an increase in hydrogen bonding with System 2 (e.g., 3310 cm -1 from 3280 cm -1 )。

[0265] When cross-sectional hyperspectral images of both System 1 and System 2 were visualized, it was revealed that the wavenumber of the amide A band was shifted to the lower wavenumber side. This shift indicated the formation of a hydrogen bonding network. In both System 1 and System 2, the wavenumber of the amide I band increased slightly, the wavenumber of the amide II band decreased slightly, and a change was shown in the ratio of 1548 / 1512 cm -1 . This indicated the structural changes within human hair fibers associated with these hair treatments.

Claims

1. Use of a hair treatment composition comprising an anionic surfactant, amphoteric surfactant, nonionic surfactant, amphoteric surfactant, cationic surfactant, or a combination thereof for repairing damage to hair proteins in the hair; an amino acid complex comprising glutamic acid, serine, glycine, cysteine, and histidine; and 0.1 to 2.5% by weight of a fiber active by the total weight of the hair treatment composition, wherein the fiber active is selected from gluconic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, succinic acid, glycolic acid, adipic acid, or a combination thereof; preferably, the gluconic acid comprises sodium gluconate, and preferably, the citric acid comprises sodium citrate.

2. The use according to claim 1, wherein the hair is damaged.

3. The use according to claim 1 or claim 2, wherein the damage is mechanical damage, heat, coloring treatment, ultraviolet exposure, bleaching, or a combination thereof.

4. The use according to claim 3, wherein the damage is bleaching.

5. The use according to any one of the claims, wherein the hair treatment composition is selected from shampoo, rinse-off hair conditioner, hair mask, leave-in treatment composition, and pre-treatment composition.

6. The use according to any one of the claims, wherein the hair treatment composition is applied to the hair at least once, preferably at least three times, and more preferably at least five times.

7. The use according to any one of the claims, wherein the damage repair is to repair hydrogen bonds in the hair after use of the hair treatment composition, or to reconstruct or repair hydrogen bonds in the hair after use of the hair treatment composition.

8. The use according to claim 7, wherein the hydrogen bond is an internal cortical bond.

9. The use according to claim 7, wherein the hydrogen bond is an external cuticle bond.

10. The use according to any one of the claims, wherein the hair has 75% or more less breakage compared to that of a non-conditioning shampoo, preferably 85% or more less breakage, and more preferably 95% or more less breakage.

11. The use according to any one of the claims, wherein the damage repair is to repair and / or strengthen bonds after a single application of the hair treatment composition.

12. The use according to any one of the claims, wherein the damage repair is an increase in the denaturation temperature of the internal proteins of the hair.

13. The use according to any one of the claims, wherein the hair treatment composition comprises a polymer electrolyte complex, and the polymer electrolyte complex comprises a polyquaternium and a methacrylate copolymer.