Permanent hair shaping composition

Abstract

A permanent shaping composition for permanently deforming hair, a kit therefor, a method, and a use thereof are provided. The present invention provides excellent permanent shaping performance, particularly with respect to odor control, application, combability, and rinsability. In particular, the present invention reduces or eliminates the odor of compounds having mercapto functionality upon application and provides excellent permanent shaping performance.

Description

[Technical field]

[0001] The present invention relates to a permanent molding composition, kit, method and use thereof for permanent deformation of hair. The permanent molding composition comprises at least one reducing agent containing mercapto functionality, at least one alkalizing agent, at least one fatty alcohol, and at least one nonionic surfactant in a cosmetically acceptable carrier, the fatty alcohol and nonionic surfactant being present in a weight ratio of 10:3.5 to 10:1. The present invention provides superior permanent molding performance, particularly with respect to odor control, application (e.g., pick-up and spreadability), combing and rinsing. In particular, the present invention reduces or eliminates the odor of compounds having mercapto functionality upon application and provides superior permanent molding performance. [Background technology]

[0002] The classical technique for permanent hair shaping, i.e. permanent waving and straightening of hair, is well known for two treatment steps: in the first step, the cystine-disulfide bridges of the keratin of the hair are opened by the action of a composition containing a reducing component (permanent shaping composition). The hair is then brought into the desired shape. In the second step, the cystine-disulfide bonds are closed again using a fixing agent, i.e. a composition containing an oxidizing component.

[0003] Classical reducing agents include compounds containing a mercapto function, such as thioglycolic acid, the ammonium or monoethanolamine salts of thioglycolic acid, 2-mercaptopropionic acid (thiolactic acid), 3-mercaptopropionic acid, cysteine, and derivatives of these compounds, cysteamine, mercaptocarboxylic acid esters, and N-alkyl-2-mercaptoacetamides.

[0004] The first step, i.e., the cystine-disulfide cleavage reaction, is typically carried out in the presence of an alkalizing agent at a pH of 7.5-9. However, alkali-conditioned permanent molding compositions based on mercapto-functionalized reducing agents generate unpleasant odors. The unpleasant odor of the reducing agent necessitates strong fragrance of the product.

[0005] Despite the fact that commercially available permanent hair transformation products have been available for many years, there is still no product that effectively reduces or completely avoids malodour during and after the hair shaping process, while at the same time providing effective permanent hair shaping benefits.

[0006] The use of thiolactic acid can slightly reduce the malodor, but compared with the widely used thioglycolic acid, the permanent deformation effect of thiolactic acid is rather weak.

[0007] It is therefore an object of the present invention to provide a composition and method for permanent shaping of hair that significantly improves odor during and after the hair shaping process, provides effective permanent hair shaping performance, and improves customer acceptance of permanent hair shaping products. Summary of the Invention

[0008] In a first aspect, the present invention provides a cosmetically acceptable carrier comprising: (a) at least one reducing agent containing a mercapto functional group; (b) at least one alkalizing agent; (c) at least one fatty alcohol; (d) at least one nonionic surfactant different from a fatty alcohol; Including, The at least one fatty alcohol and the at least one nonionic surfactant are present in a weight ratio of about 10:3.5 to 10:1, preferably about 10:3 to about 10:1.5, more preferably about 10:2.5 to 10:2.0; The present invention relates to a permanent shaping composition for the permanent deformation of hair.

[0009] In molecular terms, the at least one fatty alcohol and the at least one nonionic surfactant may be present in a molar ratio of about 10:0.78 to 10:0.22, preferably about 10:0.67 to about 10:0.33, and more preferably about 10:0.56 to 10:0.45.

[0010] In some embodiments, the cosmetically acceptable carrier is an aqueous carrier, preferably selected from the group consisting of water, water-soluble polyhydric alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

[0011] In some embodiments, the reducing agent is selected from the group consisting of thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid and their salts, such as their ammonium salts and ethanolamine salts; cysteine ​​and its salts, such as cysteine ​​hydrochloride; homocysteine; cysteamine and its salts; N-acetylcysteine; thioglycerol; ethanediol monothioglycolate; 1,2-propylene glycol monothioglycolate; 1,3-propanediol monothioglycolate or isomeric mixtures thereof; 1,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol monothioglycolate and isomeric mixtures thereof; polyethylene glycol monothioglycolates, such as di-, tri- and tetraethylene glycol monothioglycolate; glycerol monothiolate; mercaptocarboxylic acids and esters thereof; N-alkyl-2-mercaptoacetamides; and mixtures thereof; preferably from the group consisting of cysteamine, cysteine, thioglycolic acid, their salts and mixtures thereof.

[0012] In some embodiments, the composition comprises a total amount of reducing agent in the range of about 0.1 to about 35%, preferably about 0.5 to about 20%, and more preferably about 1 to about 15%, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0013] In some embodiments, the alkalizing agent is ammonia, ammonium carbamate, ammonium (bi)carbonate, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-amino-2-ethyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-amino-1-butanol, tris(hydroxylmethyl)-aminomethane, tris-(2-hydroxypropyl)-amine, lysine, 2,2-iminobisethanol, iminourea (guanidine carbonate), The alkalizing agent is selected from the group consisting of tetrahydro-1,4-oxazine, 2-amino-5-guanidine valerate, 2-aminoethanesulfonic acid, N-methylethanolamine, isopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, triisopropanolamine, glucamine, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide, other water soluble physiologically acceptable salts of organic and inorganic bases, and mixtures thereof, preferably the alkalizing agent is selected from the group consisting of ammonia, monoethanolamine, and mixtures thereof.

[0014] In some embodiments, the composition comprises a total amount of alkalizing agent in the range of about 0.1 to about 10%, preferably about 0.2 to about 5%, and more preferably 0.25 to 4%, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0015] In some embodiments, the fatty alcohol is a straight chain and / or branched chain C 14 ~C 30 From the group consisting of fatty alcohols, preferably linear C 14 ~C 30 From the group consisting of fatty alcohols, more preferably selected from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, even more preferably the fatty alcohol is cetearyl alcohol.

[0016] In some embodiments, the composition comprises a total amount of fatty alcohols in the range of about 0.5 to about 20%, preferably about 2 to about 15%, more preferably about 4 to about 12%, and even more preferably about 5 to about 10%, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0017] In some embodiments, the nonionic surfactant is polyoxyethylene C8-C 30 From the group consisting of alkyl ethers, preferably polyoxyethylene C8-C having at least 2 ethylene oxide units or at least 5 ethylene oxide units. 30 More preferably, from the group consisting of polyoxyethylene C8-C alkyl ethers having 10 to 50 ethylene oxide units. 30 From the group consisting of alkyl ethers, even more preferably polyoxyethylene C8-C10 having 15 to 30 ethylene oxide units. 30 More preferably, the non-ionic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of alkyl ethers, even more preferably from the group consisting of ceteareth-25, steareth-20 and mixtures thereof, and most preferably, the non-ionic surfactant is steareth-20.

[0018] In some embodiments, the composition comprises a total amount of nonionic surfactants other than fatty alcohols in the range of about 0.2 to about 5%, preferably about 0.5 to about 4%, and more preferably about 1.1 to about 2.2%, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0019] In some embodiments, the composition comprises a total amount of fatty alcohol and nonionic surfactant in the range of about 0.7 to about 25%, preferably about 2.5 to about 19%, and more preferably about 6.1 to about 12.2%, based on the total weight of the composition, and the fatty alcohol and nonionic surfactant are partially or wholly contained in the gel network system.

[0020] In some embodiments, the composition does not include anionic surfactants and / or cationic surfactants.

[0021] In some embodiments, the composition comprises thickeners and / or rheology modifiers, liquid oils, solid fats, cationic polymers, silicones, swelling agents, disulfides, and mixtures thereof.

[0022] In some embodiments, the composition comprises an additive selected from the group consisting of alcohols, sugar alcohols, preservatives, antioxidants, sequestering agents, salts, pearlescent aids, UV filters and sunscreens, pH adjusters, opacifiers, solubilizers, fragrance oils, dyes, amino acids, hydrolyzed proteins, and mixtures thereof.

[0023] In a second aspect, the present invention provides a method for producing a pharmaceutical composition comprising the steps of: (a) an individually packaged permanently molded composition according to any preceding claim; (b) an individually packaged fixing composition containing an oxidizing agent The present invention relates to a kit for permanently deforming hair, comprising:

[0024] In a third embodiment, the present invention provides a method for producing a pharmaceutical composition comprising the steps of: (a) providing a permanent moulding composition according to any of the preceding claims, (b) applying a permanent shaping composition to the hair before or after giving the hair a desired shape; (c) applying the permanent shaping composition to the hair for a predetermined application time sufficient to permanently shape the hair; (d) rinsing the hair with water; (e) applying to the hair a fixing composition comprising an oxidizing agent to perform an oxidative post-treatment of the hair; and (f) Rinse the hair with water The present invention relates to a method for the permanent deformation of hair, comprising: DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS

[0025] As used herein, the term "hair" may be "living", i.e. on a living organism, or "non-living", i.e. in a wig, hairpiece, or other non-living collection of keratinous fibers. Mammalian, preferably human, hair is preferred. However, wool, fur, and other keratin-containing fibers are suitable substrates for the compositions according to the present invention.

[0026] By "permanent shaping composition" is meant a composition used in the first step of the permanent deformation of hair, i.e. the cystine-disulfide cleavage reaction. The permanent shaping composition is hereinafter referred to as "composition", unless otherwise specified. The permanent shaping composition according to the invention can be used both for permanent waving (i.e. curling human hair) and for straightening (i.e. smoothing human hair).

[0027] "At least one compound" or "compound" means one compound or a mixture of two or more compounds belonging to a defined class of compounds.

[0028] "Fatty alcohol" means a non-alkoxylated saturated or unsaturated straight or branched chain alcohol having from 14 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0029] All percentages are by weight of the permanent molding composition, i.e. the ready-to-use composition, which is the composition that is applied to the hair, unless otherwise stated, and ratios are by weight, unless otherwise stated.

[0030] permanent molding composition The first aspect of the present invention comprises in a cosmetically acceptable carrier: (a) at least one reducing agent containing a mercapto functional group; (b) at least one alkalizing agent; (c) at least one fatty alcohol; (d) at least one nonionic surfactant different from a fatty alcohol; Including, the at least one fatty alcohol and the at least one nonionic surfactant are present in a weight ratio of about 10:3.5 to about 10:1, preferably about 10:3 to about 10:1.5, more preferably about 10:2.5 to 10:2.0; It is a permanent shaping composition for the permanent deformation of hair.

[0031] Cosmetically acceptable carriers The permanent molding composition includes a cosmetically acceptable carrier or solvent. The solvent may be an aqueous carrier, preferably an aqueous carrier selected from the group consisting of water, water-soluble polyhydric alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

[0032] The water-soluble polyhydric alcohol may have two or more hydroxyl groups in the molecule. The polyhydric alcohol may be a dihydric alcohol, such as ethylene glycol, 1,2- or 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-pentanediol and glycerin; furthermore, trimethylene glycol, 1,2-butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,4-butylene glycol, tetramethylene glycol, 2,3-butylene glycol, pentamethylene glycol, 2-butene-1,4-diol, hexylene glycol, octylene glycol; trihydric alcohol, such as glycerin, trimethylolpropane, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, etc.; tetrahydric alcohol, such as pentaerythritol; pentahydric alcohol, such as xylitol, etc.; hexahydric alcohol, such as sorbitol, mannitol; polyhydric alcohol polymer, such as diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, diglycerin, polyethylene glycol, triglycerin, tetraglycerin, polyglycerin; dihydric alcohol alkyl ethers, such as ethylene glycol monomethyl ether, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, ethylene glycol monobutyl ether, ethylene glycol monophenyl ether, ethylene glycol monohexyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-2-methylhexyl ether, ethylene glycol isoamyl ether, ethylene glycol benzyl ether, ethylene glycol isopropyl ether, ethylene glycol dimethyl ether, ethylene glycol diethyl ether, ethylene glycol dibutyl ether;Dihydric alcohol alkyl ethers, for example, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, diethylene glycol monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol dimethyl ether, diethylene glycol diethyl ether, diethylene glycol butyl ether, diethylene glycol methyl ethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monoethyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, propylene glycol monobutyl ether, propylene glycol isopropyl ether, dipropylene glycol methyl ether, dipropylene glycol ethyl ether, dipropylene glycol butyl ethers; dihydric alcohol ether esters, such as ethylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether acetate, ethylene glycol monobutyl ether acetate, ethylene glycol monophenyl ether acetate, ethylene glycol diadipate, ethylene glycol disuccinate, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether acetate, diethylene glycol monobutyl ether acetate, propylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate, propylene glycol monoethyl ether acetate, propylene glycol monopropyl ether acetate, propylene glycol monophenyl ether acetate; and mixtures thereof. In a particularly preferred embodiment, the water-soluble polyhydric alcohol is propylene glycol, glycerin, and mixtures thereof.;

[0033] The composition may contain water as a major component, and in particular, the composition may contain a total amount of water in the range of at least about 50%, preferably at least about 55%, and more preferably at least about 60%, based on the total weight of the composition. The composition may contain a total amount of water in the range of about 50 to about 90%, preferably about 55 to about 85%, and more preferably about 60 to about 80%, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0034] The composition may contain a total amount of water-soluble polyhydric alcohol in the range of about 0.1 to about 10%, preferably about 0.5 to about 8%, more preferably about 2 to 6%, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0035] Reducing Agent The permanent molding composition comprises at least one reducing agent. The reducing agent comprises a mercapto functional group. In general, any reducing agent known in the art that is suitable for use in the permanent deformation of hair can be used.

[0036] The reducing agent may be selected from the group consisting of thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid and their salts, such as their ammonium and ethanolamine salts; cysteine ​​and its salts, such as cysteine ​​hydrochloride; homocysteine; cysteamine and its salts; N-acetylcysteine; thioglycerol; ethanediol monothioglycolate; 1,2-propylene glycol monothioglycolate; 1,3-propanediol monothioglycolate or isomeric mixtures thereof; 1,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol monothioglycolate and isomeric mixtures thereof; polyethylene glycol monothioglycolates, such as di-, tri- and tetraethylene glycol monothioglycolate; glycerol monothiolate; mercaptocarboxylic acids and esters thereof; N-alkyl-2-mercaptoacetamides; and mixtures thereof.

[0037] In principle, the use of inorganic reducing sulfur compounds such as sodium hydrogen sulfite is also possible.

[0038] Preferably, the reducing agent is selected from the group consisting of cysteamine, cysteine, thioglycolic acid, salts thereof and mixtures thereof.

[0039] The permanent molding composition may contain a total amount of reducing agent in the range of at least about 0.1%, preferably at least about 0.5%, more preferably at least about 1%, based on the total weight of the composition. In particular, the composition may contain a total amount of reducing agent in the range of about 0.1 to about 35%, preferably about 0.5 to about 20%, more preferably about 1 to about 15%, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0040] Alkalizing Agent The permanent molding composition includes at least one alkalizing agent.

[0041] Alkalizing agents include ammonia, ammonium carbamate, ammonium (bi)carbonate, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-amino-2-ethyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-amino-1-butanol, tris(hydroxylmethyl)-aminomethane, tris-(2-hydroxypropyl)-amine, lysine, 2,2-iminobisethanol, iminourea (guanidine carbonate), tetrahydro-1,4-dimethyl-2,5-triethanolamine, tetrahydrofuran ... ,4-oxazine, 2-amino-5-guanidine valerate, 2-aminoethanesulfonic acid, N-methylethanolamine, isopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, triisopropanolamine, glucamine, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide, other water soluble physiologically acceptable salts of organic and inorganic bases, and mixtures thereof, preferably, the alkalizing agent is selected from the group consisting of ammonia, monoethanolamine and mixtures thereof.

[0042] By varying the pH value, and optionally with further application of heat, a permanent molding composition can be made available that is universally suitable for all hair structures. The composition produces elastic, durable, uniform waves from root to end of the hair without inducing allergic or sensitization reactions. It is desirable to adjust the pH value to about 5.5 to 12, preferably about 6.5 to 10.5, and most preferably about 7.5 to 9.5. The amount of alkalizing agent therefore depends on the reducing agent and the desired pH value of the composition.

[0043] The permanent molding composition may contain a total amount of alkalizing agent in the range of about 0.1 to about 10%, preferably about 0.2 to about 5%, and more preferably 0.25 to 4%, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0044] buffer The composition may comprise a buffer salt. According to the present invention, the buffer may be at least selected from the group consisting of bicarbonate salts, preferably the buffer salt is ammonium bicarbonate.

[0045] Fatty alcohol The composition comprises at least one fatty alcohol. The fatty alcohol may be a straight-chain and / or branched-chain C 14 ~C 30 From the group consisting of fatty alcohols, preferably linear C 14 ~C 30 It may be selected from the group consisting of fatty alcohols, more preferably from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof. In a particularly preferred embodiment, the fatty alcohol is cetearyl alcohol.

[0046] The composition may comprise a total amount of fatty alcohols ranging from about 0.5 to about 20%, preferably from about 2 to about 15%, more preferably from about 4 to about 12%, and even more preferably from about 5 to about 10%, based on the total weight of the composition. The amount of said fatty alcohols may represent up to 100% (or 100%) of the total amount of fatty alcohols in the composition.

[0047] Nonionic Surfactants The composition comprises at least one nonionic surfactant other than fatty alcohols. The nonionic surfactant may be selected from nonionic surfactants containing one or more polyethylene oxide chains, including the following compounds: polyoxyethylene alkyl ethers, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, polyoxyethylene castor oil, polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil, polyoxyethylene fatty amides and their monoethanolamine and diethanolamine derivatives and polyethoxylated fatty amines, and mixtures thereof. The nonionic surfactant may be selected from polyoxyethylene C8-C 30 From the group consisting of alkyl ethers, preferably polyoxyethylene C8-C having at least 2 ethylene oxide units or at least 5 ethylene oxide units. 30 More preferably, from the group consisting of polyoxyethylene C8-C alkyl ethers having 10 to 50 ethylene oxide units. 30 From the group consisting of alkyl ethers, even more preferably polyoxyethylene C8-C10 having 15 to 30 ethylene oxide units. 30 The non-ionic surfactant may be selected from the group consisting of alkyl ethers, most preferably from the group consisting of ceteareth-25, steareth-20 and mixtures thereof. In a particularly preferred embodiment, the non-ionic surfactant is steareth-20.

[0048] The composition may contain a total amount of nonionic surfactants other than fatty alcohols in the range of about 0.2 to about 5%, preferably about 0.5 to about 4%, more preferably about 1.1 to about 2.2%, based on the total weight of the composition. The amount of said nonionic surfactants (or mixtures of said nonionic surfactants) may account for up to 100% (or 100%) of the total amount of nonionic surfactants in the composition.

[0049] Gel network system The composition may contain the aforementioned fatty alcohols and nonionic surfactants in a total amount ranging from about 0.7 to about 25%, preferably from about 2.5 to about 19%, more preferably from about 6.1 to about 12.2%, based on the total weight of the composition. The fatty alcohol(s) and nonionic surfactant(s) may be included in the composition, either partially or entirely, in a gel network system.

[0050] The formation of the gel network involves heating a dispersion of fatty alcohol in water containing a surfactant to a temperature above 80°C. During the mixing process, the fatty alcohol melts and the surfactant is distributed into the fatty alcohol droplets. The surfactant brings water into the fatty alcohol along with it. This causes the isotropic fatty alcohol droplets to change into liquid crystal phase droplets. When the mixture is cooled below the chain melting temperature, the liquid crystal phase is transformed into a solid crystalline gel network. The gel network can particularly contribute to the reduction or even elimination of the odor of compounds containing mercapto functional groups.

[0051] About 50 to about 100%, preferably about 70 to about 100%, more preferably about 90 to about 100%, and most preferably about 100% of the fatty alcohol present in the composition may be contained in the gel network. About 50 to about 100%, preferably about 70 to about 100%, more preferably about 90 to about 100%, and most preferably about 100% of the nonionic surfactant present in the composition may be contained in the gel network.

[0052] The inventors have surprisingly found that by carefully selecting and using in combination certain classes of compounds, it is possible to significantly reduce or even eliminate the odor of compounds containing mercapto functional groups, which is particularly noticeable during application and standing of the permanent molding composition on the hair.Indeed, the inventors have found that the reduction or elimination of odor is achieved using fatty alcohols and non-ionic surfactants, which are contained in the composition in a specific ratio as defined above.

[0053] Surfactants other than nonionic surfactants The composition may further comprise at least one surfactant other than a nonionic surfactant.Suitable surfactants generally have a lipophilic chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms and may be selected from anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, cationic surfactants and mixtures thereof.Any suitable surfactant known in the art may be used.

[0054] The composition comprises a total amount of anionic surfactants of less than about 0.5%, preferably less than about 0.3%, more preferably less than about 0.1%, based on the total weight of the composition. Alternatively, the composition may be free of anionic surfactants.

[0055] The composition comprises a total amount of cationic surfactants of less than about 0.5%, preferably less than about 0.3%, more preferably less than about 0.1%, based on the total weight of the composition. Alternatively, the composition may be free of cationic surfactants.

[0056] The inventors have surprisingly found that when the permanent molding composition does not contain anionic and / or cationic surfactants, a greater reduction in the odor of compounds that contain mercapto functional groups is achieved.Indeed, the incorporation of anionic and / or cationic surfactants into the composition can change the gel network formation, the presence of which is believed to be necessary to achieve odor reduction of compounds that contain mercapto functional groups when applied to hair.

[0057] Thickeners and / or rheology modifiers The composition may further comprise at least one thickening agent and / or at least one rheology modifier in an amount sufficient to impart viscosity to the composition so that it can be easily applied to the hair without excessive dripping off the hair and causing staining.

[0058] Suitable thickening agents include, but are not limited to, associative polymers, polysaccharides, non-associative polycarboxylic acid polymers, and mixtures thereof. Commercially available salt tolerant thickeners include, but are not limited to, xanthan gum, diutan gum, tara gum, guar, hydroxypropyl guar, scleroglucan, methylcellulose, ethylcellulose (commercially available as Aquacote), hydroxyethylcellulose (Natrosol), carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, hydroxybutyl methylcellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose (Klucel), hydroxyethyl ethylcellulose, cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose (Natrosol Plus 330), N-vinylpyrrolidone (Povidone), acrylates / ceteth-20 itaconate copolymer (Structure 3001), hydroxypropyl starch phosphate (Structure ZEA), polyethoxylated urethane or polycarbamyl polyglycol esters such as PEG-150 / Decyl / SMDI Copolymer (Aculyn 44), PEG-150 / Stearyl / SMDI Copolymer (Aculyn 50), PEG-150 / Stearyl / SMDI Copolymer (Aculyn 60), PEG-150 / Stearyl / SMDI Copolymer (Aculyn 70), PEG-150 / Stearyl / SMDI Copolymer (Aculyn 80), PEG-150 / Stearyl / SMDI Copolymer (Aculyn 90), PEG-150 / Stearyl / SMDI Copolymer (Aculyn 100), PEG-150 / Stearyl / SMDI Copolymer (Aculyn 110), PEG-150 / Stearyl / SMDI Copolymer (Aculyn 120), PEG-150 / Stearyl / SMDI Copolymer (Aculyn 130), PEG-150 / Stearyl / SMDI Copolymer (Aculyn 140), PEG-150 / Stearyl / SMDI Copolymer (Aculyn 150), PEG-150 / Stearyl / SMDI Copolymer (A 46), trihydroxystearin (Thixcin), acrylate copolymers (Aculyn 33) or hydrophobically modified acrylate copolymers (e.g., acrylates / steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer as Aculyn 22), acrylates / steareth-20 methacrylate crosspolymer (Aculyn 88), acrylates / vinyl neodecanoate crosspolymer (Aculyn 38), acrylates / beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer (Aculyn 28), acrylates / Clu-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer (Carbopol ETD 2020), nonionic amphiphilic polymers selected from polyether urethanes containing at least one fatty chain, containing at least one fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic unit, and mixtures thereof. In a preferred embodiment, the thickener is xanthan gum.

[0059] The composition may comprise a total amount of thickening agents in the range of at least about 0.1%, preferably at least about 0.2%, preferably at least about 0.25%, more preferably from 0.25 to 2%, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0060] viscosity According to the present invention, the composition has a viscosity of 100 to 2000 mPas, preferably 200 to 1500 mPas, more preferably 500 to 1000 mPas. The viscosity is determined according to the test method defined below.

[0061] Viscosity Test Method Viscosity measurements are performed on a TA Instruments controlled stress rheometer type AR500, AR1000 or AR2000 or equivalent equipment. A 6 cm flat acrylic cross-hatched parallel plate geometry (TA item 518600.901) and a stainless steel cross-hatched base plate (TA item 570011.001) are used. The rheometer is adjusted for flow measurements according to standard manufacturer's procedures. The gap of the parallel plate geometry is set to 1000 microns. The flow procedure is programmed into the rheometer with the following conditions: continuous stress gradient 0.1-300 Pa over 2 minutes at 25°C, including 250 measurement points in linear mode. The product is loaded into the geometry according to standard procedures. From the shear stress vs shear rate curve, a 10 s. -1 The shear stress value at a shear rate of 1000 s is obtained and the corresponding viscosity is calculated by dividing the obtained shear stress by 10.

[0062] liquid oil The permanent molding composition may comprise a liquid oil. The liquid oil may be selected from the group consisting of avocado oil, camellia oil, turtle oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, egg yolk oil, sesame oil, persic oil, wheat germ oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, linseed oil, safflower oil, cottonseed oil, perilla oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, tea oil, kaya oil, rice bran oil, Chinese tung oil, Japanese tung oil, jojoba oil, germ oil, triglycerin, glycerin trioctanoate, glycerin triisopalmitate, liquid lanolin, hexyl laurate, liquid hydrocarbon esters such as liquid paraffin, mineral oil, isododecane, fatty acid oil, squalene, ester oils such as cetyl octanoate, isopropyl myristate and mixtures thereof, preferably the liquid oil is mineral oil.

[0063] The composition may comprise a total amount of liquid oil in the range of at least about 0% to at least about 5%, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0064] Solid Fats and Waxes The permanent molding composition may comprise a solid fat, such as cocoa butter, coconut oil, horse fat, hardened coconut fat, palm oil, tallow, sheep fat, hardened tallow, palm kernel oil, lard, beef bone fat, Japan wax kernel oil, hardened castor oil; lanolin, kapok wax, lanolin acetate, isopropyl lanolin fatty acid, reduced lanolin, hard lanolin, POE lanolin alcohol ether, POE lanolin alcohol acetate, POE cholesterol ether, polyethylene glycol lanolin fatty acid, POE hydrogenated lanolin alcohol ether; hydrocarbons, non-volatile hydrocarbons and solids. The solid fat may be selected from the group consisting of solid hydrocarbon esters such as solid paraffin, petrolatum, ozocerite, pristane, ceresin, petrolatum, microcrystalline wax; phospholipids such as lecithin or ceramide, beeswax, apple wax, candelilla wax, cotton wax, carnauba wax, bayberry wax, beeswax, spermaceti, montan wax, rice bran wax, kapok wax, sugar cane wax, jojoba wax, and shellac wax, and preferably the solid fat is petrolatum. The wax is not a fatty alcohol.

[0065] The composition may comprise a total amount of solid fat in the range of at least about 0% to at least about 5%, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0066] Cationic Polymer The permanent molding composition may comprise at least one cationic polymer, which may be selected from the group consisting of cationic homopolymers, cationic copolymers, cationic polysaccharides, cationic silicone polymers containing quaternary nitrogen groups, such as Quaternium-80, and mixtures thereof.

[0067] The composition may contain a total amount of cationic polymer in the range of about 0.05 to about 15%, preferably about 0.1 to about 8%, more preferably about 0.2 to about 3%, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0068] Suitable cationic homopolymers are prepared by homopolymerizing cationic monomers containing quaternary nitrogen groups, and suitable cationic copolymers are prepared by copolymerizing cationic monomers containing quaternary nitrogen groups with non-cationic monomers.Suitable cationic monomers are unsaturated radical polymerizable compounds having at least one cationic group, in particular ammonium-substituted vinyl monomers, such as trialkylmethacryloxyalkylammonium, trialkylacryloxyalkylammonium, dialkyldiallylammonium, and quaternary vinylammonium monomers having a group containing cyclic cationic nitrogen, such as pyridinium, imidazolium, or quaternary, such as alkylvinylimidazolium, alkylvinylpyridinium or alkylvinylpyrrolidone salts.

[0069] The alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably lower alkyl groups, such as C1-C7 alkyl groups, with C1-C3 alkyl groups being particularly preferred. The ammonium group-containing monomers can be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers. Suitable comonomers are, for example, acrylamide, methacrylamide, alkyl and dialkyl acrylamide, alkyl and dialkyl methacrylamide, alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate, vinyl caprolactone, vinyl caprolactam, vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl esters, such as vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably C1-C7 alkyl groups, with C1-C3 alkyl groups being particularly preferred.

[0070] Suitable cationic polysaccharides containing quaternary nitrogen groups are, for example, cationic derivatives of cellulose, starch or guar, chitosan and chitosan derivatives. A preferred cationic homopolymer is polyquaternium-6, and a preferred cationic copolymer is polyquaternium-11.

[0071] silicone Silicone can be volatile or nonvolatile, soluble or insoluble, preferably insoluble silicone.By "soluble" it is meant that silicone is miscible with the aqueous carrier of the composition so as to form part of the same phase.By "insoluble" it is meant that silicone forms a separate discontinuous phase from the aqueous carrier, for example in the form of an emulsion or suspension of silicone droplets.

[0072] Soluble silicones may be selected from the group consisting of silicone copolyols, e.g. dimethicone copolyols, e.g. polyether siloxane modified polymers, e.g. polypropylene oxide, polyethylene oxide modified polydimethylsiloxane, with a level of ethylene and / or propylene oxide sufficient to allow solubility in the composition.

[0073] The insoluble silicone may have a viscosity of about 1,000 to about 2,000,000 mPas, preferably about 10,000 to about 1,800,000 mPas, and more preferably about 100,000 to about 1,500,000 mPas at 25° C. The viscosity can be measured using a glass capillary viscometer as described in Dow Corning Gorparate Test Method CTM0004, July 20, 1970.

[0074] Insoluble silicone may be selected from the group consisting of polyalkylsiloxane, polyarylsiloxane, polyalkylarylsiloxane, polyethersiloxane copolymer, dimethylpolysiloxane containing terminal hydroxyl group, methylphenylpolysiloxane containing terminal hydroxyl group and mixtures thereof, low molecular weight oligomeric polydimethylsiloxane or cyclic polydimethylsiloxane, polyethersiloxane copolymer, particularly preferred silicone conditioning polymer is CTFA: dimethicone, amodimethicone, dimethicone bisamino hydroxypropyl copolyol, bisamino PEG / PPG-41 / 3 aminoethyl PG-propyl dimethicone, dihydroxypolydimethylsiloxane (CTFA: dimethiconol).Volatile silicone such as CTFA: dimethicone, dimethicone copolyol and cyclodimethicone are also preferred, preferably insoluble silicone may be selected from the group consisting of dimethicone, amodimethicone or mixtures thereof.

[0075] The composition may contain a total amount of silicones in the range of about 0 to about 6%, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0076] Swelling Agent So-called swelling agents and penetrating substances may be added to the hair shaping composition, examples being urea, melamine, ethers such as dipropylene glycol monomethyl ether, 2-pyrrolidone, imidazolidin-2-one, 1-methyl-2-pyrrolidone; alkali or ammonium thiocyanates, polyhydric alcohols, isopropanol, preferably the swelling agent and penetrating substance is urea.

[0077] The composition may contain a total amount of swelling agent in the range of about 0% to about 5%, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0078] Disulfides It is advantageous if the permanent shaping agent contains disulfides of hair keratin-reducing compounds (thiols), in particular dithioglycolic acid, 2,2'dithio-bis[N-(3-hydroxypropyl)-acetamide], 2,2'-dithio-bis[N-(propyl)-acetamide], 2,2'dithio-bis[N-(2-hydroxypropyl)-acetamide], dithiolactic acid and their salts, in order to prevent the hair from becoming too frizzy.

[0079] The composition may contain a total amount of disulfides in the range of about 0.1 to about 30%, more preferably about 0.5 to about 20%, and most preferably about 1 to about 10%, based on the total weight of the composition. The ratio of hair keratin-reducing agent to disulfide is preferably about 20:1 to about 1:2, more preferably 10:1 to 1:1.

[0080] In a preferred embodiment, the disulfide is selected from the group consisting of cystamine, cystine and dithiodiglycolic acid, their salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0081] Additives The composition may further comprise additives that are conventionally known for permanent hair shaping compositions.Suitable additives include, for example, alcohols, such as ethanol, propanol, isopropanol; sugar alcohols, such as sorbitol, maltitol, maltotriose, mannitol, sucrase, erythritol, glucose, fructose, starch sugar, maltose, xylitol, reduced alcohols of starch sugar; preservatives, such as benzyl alcohol, methylparaben, propylparaben and imidazolidinyl urea; antioxidants, such as tocopherol; sequestering agents, such as disodium ethylenediaminetetraacetate, ethylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid and its salts; salts, such as sodium chloride, potassium chloride, ammonium chloride, sodium sulfate, potassium sulfate salts and ammonium sulfate salts, such as sodium chloride, potassium chloride, ammonium chloride, sodium sulfate, potassium sulfate and ammonium sulfate; pearlescent auxiliaries such as ethylene glycol distearate and mica; UV filters and sunscreens such as p-methoxycinnamic acid isoamyl ester, lipophilic cinnamates, salicylates, benzophenones or 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives or hydrophilic sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor; pH adjusters such as citric acid, formic acid, glyoxylic acid, acetic acid, lactic acid, pyruvic acid, sodium citrate, succinic acid, phosphoric acid, sodium hydroxide, sodium carbonate; opacifying agents such as kaolin and titanium dioxide; solubilizers; perfume oils; dyes; amino acids and / or hydrolyzed proteins; and mixtures thereof.

[0082] The additives are preferably used in the amounts customary for such purposes: from about 0.1 to about 20% of alcohol, from about 0.1 to about 5% each of sugar alcohols, salts, pearlescent aids and UV filters and sunscreens, from about 0.01 to about 1% each of antioxidants, pH adjusters, sequestering agents, opacifiers, preservatives, fragrance oils, solubilizers, amino acids and hydrolyzed proteins and / or dyes, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0083] Kit for permanent hair transformation In a second aspect, the present invention provides a method for producing a pharmaceutical composition comprising the steps of: (a) an individually packaged permanently molded composition comprising at least one reducing agent containing a mercapto functional group, at least one alkalizing agent, at least a fatty alcohol, and at least one nonionic surfactant different from the fatty alcohol, wherein the at least one fatty alcohol and the at least one nonionic surfactant are present in a weight ratio of about 10:3.5 to 10:1, preferably about 10:3 to about 10:1.5, and more preferably about 10:2.5 to 10:2.0; (b) an individually packaged fixing composition containing an oxidizing agent The present invention relates to a kit for permanently deforming hair, comprising:

[0084] By "individually packaged" it is meant that the components may be packaged in separate or compartmentalized containers without contact with one another.

[0085] In the kit for permanent deformation of hair, the carrier, the reducing agent, the alkalizing agent, the fatty alcohol, the non-ionic surfactant and the optional compounds are in accordance with the compounds described with respect to the first aspect of the invention.

[0086] The fixing composition is a composition for oxidatively post-treating (fixing) the hair, which comprises an oxidizing agent.

[0087] Any known oxidizing agent previously used in fixing compositions can be used for fixing. Examples of such oxidizing agents are potassium bromate, sodium bromate, sodium perborate, dehydroascorbic acid, urea peroxide, hydrogen peroxide, and inorganic peroxide materials that can yield hydrogen peroxide in aqueous solution. Such materials are, for example, inorganic alkali metal peroxides (e.g., sodium periodate and sodium peroxide); organic peroxides (e.g., urea peroxide and carbamide peroxide); inorganic peroxide salt bleaching compounds (e.g., alkali metal salts such as perborates, percarbonates, perphosphates, persilicates, persulfates, etc.); and mixtures thereof. Inorganic peroxide salts may be incorporated, for example, as monohydrates or tetrahydrates. Alkyl / aryl peroxides and / or peroxidases may also be used. Mixtures of two or more such oxidizing agents can be used if desired. The oxidizing agent may be provided in an aqueous solution or as a powder that is dissolved before use. Hydrogen peroxide is preferred.

[0088] The concentration of the oxidizing agent varies depending on the application time and application temperature. In general, the oxidizing agent is used at a concentration of about 0.5 to 12%, preferably about 1 to about 3%, based on the total weight of the fixing composition. The fixing composition may contain other materials, such as weak acids or peroxide stabilizers. The fixing composition may also contain other substances, such as humectants, hair care substances such as cationic polymers, weak acids, buffer substances or peroxide stabilizers, and may be in aqueous solution, emulsion or thickened aqueous form, in particular in the form of a cream, gel or paste. These typical additives may be contained in the fixing composition in an amount of about 0.1 to about 10%, based on the total weight of the fixing composition.

[0089] The fixing composition can be in the form of an aqueous solution or emulsion, as well as in the form of thickened aqueous solutions, in particular as creams, gels or pastes.These compositions can also be filled under pressure into aerosol cans and released as aerosol foam.Preferably, the fixing composition is an aqueous solution or emulsion.

[0090] The permanent molding and fixing compositions can be manufactured by conventional methods known in the art for manufacturing permanent molding and fixing products, for example, by mixing the ingredients of each composition in a suitable vessel, followed by packaging in suitable individual containers.

[0091] Method for permanent deformation of hair In a third aspect, the present invention provides a method for producing a pharmaceutical composition comprising the steps of: (a) providing a permanent molding composition comprising at least one reducing agent, at least one alkalizing agent, at least one fatty alcohol, and at least one nonionic surfactant different from the fatty alcohol, wherein the at least one fatty alcohol and the at least one nonionic surfactant are present in a weight ratio of about 10:3.5 to 10:1, preferably about 10:3 to about 10:1.5, more preferably about 10:2.5 to 10:2.0; (b) applying a permanent shaping composition to the hair before or after giving the hair a desired shape; (c) applying the permanent shaping composition to the hair for a predetermined application time sufficient to permanently shape the hair; (d) rinsing the hair with water; (e) applying to the hair a fixing composition comprising an oxidizing agent to perform an oxidative post-treatment of the hair; and (f) Rinse the hair with water The present invention relates to a method for the permanent deformation of hair, comprising:

[0092] In the method for permanent deformation of hair according to the invention, the carrier, the reducing agent, the alkalizing agent, the fatty alcohol, the non-ionic surfactant and the optional compounds are in accordance with the compounds described with respect to the first aspect of the invention.

[0093] The method includes, as a first step, providing a permanent molding composition.

[0094] Either before or after applying the permanent shaping composition, the hair is preferably brought into the desired shape under mechanical tension as follows: first the hair (washed and towel-dried) is separated into sections, and then these sections are wound around curlers. Curlers used for permanent waves have a diameter of about 5-13 mm. The curlers may be connected to a digital perm machine for heating the curlers and the hair. After the hair is wound around the curlers, the curlers are thoroughly moistened using the permanent shaping composition. Alternatively, the hair may be thoroughly moistened using the permanent shaping composition before being curled around rollers, but the procedure for winding the hair around curlers is the same.

[0095] After the permanent molding composition has been applied, the hair may be covered with a moisture barrier.

[0096] The permanent shaping composition is then applied to the hair for a predetermined application time sufficient to permanently shape the hair. The amount of time that the permanent shaping composition remains on the hair is about 2 to 45 minutes, preferably about 5 to about 30 minutes, preferably about 5 to about 20 minutes. This time can be shortened by applying heat using a radiator or hood dryer. This time depends on the quality of the hair, the pH value, the level of change desired, as well as the application temperature.

[0097] For example, the hair may be heated for a predetermined duration, preferably to 50 to 150° C., more preferably to 60 to 140° C., and even more preferably to 90 to 120° C. The heating step can be carried out using a separate heating device, such as a heating hood, or using the curlers themselves and connecting them to the digital perm machine.

[0098] After the application period, tension is released from the hair, removing the moisture barrier, if present.

[0099] The hair is then rinsed with water.

[0100] As a further step, the method includes applying a fixing composition containing an oxidizing agent to perform an oxidative post-treatment of the hair. Depending on the thickness and length of the hair, the amount of fixing composition, the application time and the application temperature may vary. A preferred application time is in the range of about 1 to about 40 minutes, for example about 2 to about 20 minutes, more preferably about 3 to about 10 minutes. A preferred application temperature is in the range of about 25 to about 40°C.

[0101] After the oxidative post-treatment, the hair is rinsed with water. After the oxidative post-treatment, the curls can be removed from the hair at any time, preferably before rinsing the hair with water.

[0102] Although the above method is directed to permanently waving hair, this method can also be generally applied to straighten hair.Generally, the method of the present invention can be used to straighten permanently wavy or naturally curled hair.To straighten hair, the composition is applied to dry hair, and then combed or physically smoothed or otherwise tensioned for up to about 20 minutes, so that sufficient bond breakage can occur, followed by neutralization.

[0103] use The present invention also relates to the use of the composition described above for the permanent deformation of hair. EXAMPLES

[0104] Preparation of Permanent Shaping / Straightening Composition The formation of the gel network involves heating a dispersion of fatty alcohol in water containing a surfactant to a temperature above 80°C. During the mixing process, the fatty alcohol melts and the surfactant is distributed into the fatty alcohol droplets. The surfactant brings water into the fatty alcohol along with it. This causes the isotropic fatty alcohol droplets to change into liquid crystal phase droplets. When the mixture is cooled below the chain melting temperature, the liquid crystal phase is transformed into a solid crystalline gel network. The gel network can particularly contribute to the reduction or even elimination of the odor of compounds containing mercapto functional groups. Other materials are then added to the resulting mixture.

[0105] permanent molding composition TIFF0007599008000001.tif113170

[0106] Permanent molding method The permanent molding process is carried out as follows: (a) washing the hair with shampoo and then tower drying the hair; (b) applying a permanent shaping composition to the hair before giving the hair the desired shape; (c) applying the permanent molding composition to the hair for a predetermined application time; (d) rinsing the hair with water; (e) Blow dry the hair until it is 90% dry. (f) separating the hair into sections and then winding the sections into curlers; (g) connecting the curlers to a digital perm machine for heating the curlers and the hair; (h) applying to the hair a fixing composition comprising an oxidizing agent to perform an oxidative post-treatment of the hair; and (i) Remove curls and rinse hair with water.

[0107] result TIFF0007599008000002.tif47170

[0108] Permanently straightening composition TIFF0007599008000003.tif118170

[0109] Permanent straightening method (a) optionally washing the hair with shampoo and then tower drying the hair; (b) applying a permanent molding composition to the hair; (c) applying the permanent molding composition to the hair for a predetermined application time; (d) rinsing the hair with water; (e) blow-drying the hair; (f) separating the hair into sections and then straightening the hair with a straightening iron; (g) applying to the hair a fixing composition comprising an oxidizing agent to perform an oxidative post-treatment of the hair, and (h) Rinse the hair with water.

[0110] result The permanent shaping is evaluated by three hair stylists using a rating scale of 1 (bad) to 5 (excellent). The following ratings are the average of the scores obtained. TIFF0007599008000004.tif30170

[0111] Examples C4 and C5 describe compositions with a fatty alcohol / nonionic surfactant ratio of 10:0.9. This and all higher ratios of fatty alcohol / nonionic surfactant do not provide a good gel network, as early signs of phase separation become evident within hours / days after the composition is made.

[0112] In addition to those described herein, variations and modifications of the present invention and further embodiments thereof will become apparent to those skilled in the art from the entire contents of this specification. The subject matter of this specification contains information, examples and guidance that can be adapted to the practice of the present invention in its various embodiments and equivalents. The appended claims are intended to cover all such variations, modifications, embodiments and equivalents.

Claims

1. In a cosmetically acceptable carrier, (a) at least one reducing agent containing a mercapto functional group; (b) at least one alkalizing agent; (c) at least one fatty alcohol; (d) at least one nonionic surfactant different from a fatty alcohol; Including, The at least one fatty alcohol and the at least one nonionic surfactant are present in a weight ratio of 10:3.5 to 10:1; A permanent shaping composition for the permanent deformation of hair, comprising: A composition comprising a fatty alcohol and a nonionic surfactant in a total amount ranging from 6.1 to 12.2% based on the total weight of the composition, and no anionic surfactant or cationic surfactant.

2. The composition described in claim 1, wherein the at least one fatty alcohol and the at least one nonionic surfactant are present in a weight ratio of 10:3 to 10:1.

5.

3. The composition described in claim 1, wherein the at least one fatty alcohol and the at least one nonionic surfactant are present in a weight ratio of 10:2.5 to 10:2.

0.

4. 4. The composition of claim 1, wherein the cosmetically acceptable carrier is an aqueous carrier.

5. The composition of claim 4, wherein the aqueous carrier is selected from the group consisting of water, water-soluble polyhydric alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

6. 6. The composition of any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the reducing agent is selected from the group consisting of thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid and their salts; cysteine ​​and its salts; homocysteine; cysteamine and its salts; N-acetylcysteine; thioglycerol; ethanediol monothioglycolate; 1,2-propylene glycol monothioglycolate; 1,3-propanediol monothioglycolate or isomeric mixtures derived therefrom; 1,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol monothioglycolate and isomeric mixtures thereof; polyethylene glycol monothioglycolate; glycerol monothiolate; mercaptocarboxylic acids and esters thereof; N-alkyl-2-mercaptoacetamides; and mixtures thereof.

7. The composition of claim 6, wherein the reducing agent is selected from the group consisting of cysteamine, cysteine, thioglycolic acid, salts thereof and mixtures thereof.

8. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, comprising a total amount of reducing agents ranging from 0.1 to 35% relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. The composition of claim 8, comprising a total amount of reducing agent in the range of 0.5 to 20% by weight of the total composition.

10. The composition of claim 8, comprising a total amount of reducing agent in the range of 1 to 15% by weight of the total composition.

11. The alkalizing agent may be ammonia, ammonium carbamate, ammonium (bi)carbonate, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-amino-2-ethyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-amino-1-butanol, tris(hydroxymethyl)-aminomethane, tris-(2-hydroxypropyl)-amine, lysine, 2,2-iminobisethanol, iminourea (carbon 11. The composition of any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the compound is selected from the group consisting of guanidine valerate, tetrahydro-1,4-oxazine, 2-amino-5-guanidine valerate, 2-aminoethanesulfonic acid, N-methylethanolamine, isopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, triisopropanolamine, glucamine, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide, other water soluble physiologically acceptable salts of organic and inorganic bases, and mixtures thereof.

12. The composition of claim 11, wherein the alkalizing agent is selected from the group consisting of ammonia, monoethanolamine, and mixtures thereof.

13. 13. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, comprising a total amount of alkalizing agent ranging from 0.1 to 10% relative to the total weight of the composition.

14. The composition of claim 13, comprising a total amount of an alkalizing agent in the range of 0.2 to 5% by weight of the total composition.

15. The composition of claim 13, comprising a total amount of an alkalizing agent in the range of 0.25 to 4% by weight of the total composition.

16. The fatty alcohol is a linear and / or branched C １４ ~C ３０ 16. The composition of claim 1, wherein the fatty alcohol is selected from the group consisting of fatty alcohols.

17. The composition of claim 16, wherein the fatty alcohol is selected from the group consisting of linear C14-C30 fatty alcohols.

18. The composition of claim 16, wherein the fatty alcohol is selected from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

19. The composition of claim 16, wherein the fatty alcohol is cetearyl alcohol.

20. 20. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 19, comprising a total amount of fatty alcohols ranging from 0.5 to 20% relative to the total weight of the composition.

21. The composition of claim 20, comprising a total amount of fatty alcohols in the range of 2 to 15% by weight of the total composition.

22. The composition of claim 20, comprising a total amount of fatty alcohols in the range of 4 to 12% based on the total weight of the composition.

23. The composition of claim 20, comprising a total amount of fatty alcohols in the range of 5 to 10% by weight of the total composition.

24. The nonionic surfactant is polyoxyethylene C ８ ~C ３０ 24. The composition of any one of claims 1 to 23, wherein the alkyl ether is selected from the group consisting of alkyl ethers.

25. The composition of claim 24, wherein the nonionic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of polyoxyethylene C 8 -C 30 alkyl ethers having at least 2 ethylene oxide units or at least 5 ethylene oxide units.

26. The composition of claim 24, wherein the nonionic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of polyoxyethylene C 8 -C 30 alkyl ethers having from 10 to 50 ethylene oxide units.

27. The composition of claim 24, wherein the nonionic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of polyoxyethylene C 8 -C 30 alkyl ethers having from 15 to 30 ethylene oxide units.

28. The composition of claim 24, wherein the nonionic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of ceteareth-25, steareth-20 and mixtures thereof.

29. The composition of claim 24, wherein the nonionic surfactant is steareth-20.

30. 30. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 29, comprising a total amount of non-ionic surfactants other than fatty alcohols ranging from 0.2 to 5% relative to the total weight of the composition.

31. The composition of claim 30, comprising a total amount of nonionic surfactants other than fatty alcohols in the range of 0.5 to 4% by weight of the total composition.

32. The composition of claim 30, comprising a total amount of nonionic surfactants other than fatty alcohols in the range of 1.1 to 2.2% based on the total weight of the composition.

33. A composition described in any one of claims 1 to 32, wherein the fatty alcohol and the nonionic surfactant are partially or wholly contained in the gel network system.

34. 34. The composition of any one of claims 1 to 33, comprising a thickener and / or rheology modifier, a liquid oil, a solid fat, a cationic polymer, a silicone, a swelling agent, a disulfide, and mixtures thereof.

35. 35. The composition of any one of claims 1 to 34, comprising an additive selected from the group consisting of alcohols, sugar alcohols, preservatives, antioxidants, sequestering agents, salts, pearlescent aids, UV filters and sunscreens, pH adjusters, opacifying agents, solubilizers, fragrance oils, dyes, amino acids, hydrolyzed proteins, and mixtures thereof.

36. (a) an individually packaged permanently molded composition according to any one of claims 1 to 35; (b) An individually packaged fixing composition containing an oxidizing agent 16. A kit for permanently transforming hair, comprising:

37. (a) providing a permanent molding composition according to any one of claims 1 to 35, (b) applying a permanent shaping composition to the hair before or after giving the hair a desired shape; (c) applying the permanent shaping composition to the hair for a predetermined application time sufficient to permanently shape the hair; (d) rinsing the hair with water; (e) applying to the hair a fixing composition comprising an oxidizing agent to perform an oxidative post-treatment of the hair; and (f) Rinse the hair with water.

13. A method for permanently deforming hair, comprising:

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