Liquid cleansing composition

A formulation framework with defined ranges for myristic acid, polyol, and 12-HSA in fatty acid-based compositions addresses stability and processability issues, ensuring stable and effective liquid cleansing compositions with skin health benefits.

JP7599827B2Active Publication Date: 2024-12-16UNILEVER IP HLDG BV
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Patent Information

Application Number
JP2019565554
Authority / Receiving Office
JP · JP
Patent Type
Patents
Current Assignee / Owner
Priority Date
2017-06-02
Filing Date
2018-05-25
Publication Date
2024-12-16
Estimated Expiration
2038-05-25

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Incorporation of 12-hydroxystearic acid (12-HSA) into liquid cleansing compositions based on fatty acids and fatty acid soaps results in formulation structuring issues, viscosity changes, and stability problems, particularly phase separation, especially at low synthetic surfactant concentrations.

Method used

A formulation framework is established with specific ranges for myristic acid (45-65% by weight of fatty acids), polyol (20-50% by weight), and 12-HSA (0.1-5% by weight) to maintain processability and stability, using low synthetic surfactants (0-5% by weight) and a pH of 8.0 to 11.0.

Benefits of technology

The composition achieves both processability and stability, preventing phase separation and maintaining rheological properties, ensuring a stable and effective skin health benefit from 12-HSA.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.

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Abstract

The present invention relates to liquid cleansing compositions containing 12-HSA that are both processable and stable. Applicants have defined a specific compositional window (defined by specific types and ratios of fatty acids and / or fatty acid soaps, as well as critical upper and lower levels of 12-HSA and polyols) that can meet these objectives.
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Description

[Technical field]

[0001] The present invention relates to liquid cleansing compositions, particularly compositions that are processable, stable, and provide consumer benefits to the skin (eg, moisturizing, whitening). [Background technology]

[0002] For a liquid cleansing composition to be suitable for the consumer, the composition should be processable (e.g., have a rheology such that all ingredients can be mixed without clogging the mixing blades), stable (e.g., do not phase separate at a defined temperature for a defined time), and have rheological properties that provide an appropriate sensory experience. It may be desirable to add ingredients that have skin health or other benefits.

[0003] One particularly beneficial molecule for incorporation into such fluids is 12-hydroxystearic acid ("12-HSA"), a well-known peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor ("Ppar") activator that may impact skin health.

[0004] However, the incorporation of 12-HSA into liquid formulations poses challenges as it can affect formulation structuring, formulation viscosity, processing, and stability. Without instructions on how to incorporate, the use of 12-HSA typically leads to thickening or thinning of the formulation and / or phase separation (instability) over time.

[0005] Specifically, formulations with low concentrations of synthetic surfactants, compositions based primarily on fatty acids and fatty acid soaps (i.e., fatty acids and fatty acid soaps, preferably C8-C 20 In compositions having a combination of fatty acids and soaps (which are greater than 50% of the combination and other surfactants), the use of 12-HSA typically results in compositions that are non-processable, unstable (i.e., not "stress" stable as defined), or both.

[0006] Quite surprisingly and unexpectedly, the applicant has found that in such low-synthesis surfactant compositions based primarily on fatty acids and fatty acid soaps, a formulation window is found in which 12-HSA can be used while the composition retains both processability and stability. The formulation window involves a specific selection of fatty acids such that a specific myristic acid (45-65% by weight of all fatty acids used) must be used in combination with a lower limit level of polyol (20% or more by weight of the composition, preferably 21-40%, most preferably 25-35%). Compositions that do not fall within this specific myristic acid window or do not have a lower limit level of polyol (e.g. glycerin, polyalkylene glycol) do not meet both processability and stability requirements.

[0007] The use of 12-HSA in soap bar compositions is not new.

[0008] U.S. Patent No. 6,730,643 to Chokappa et al. discloses transparent soap bars containing 30-60% by weight total fatty matter ("TFM"), where 1-15% by weight is a salt of 12-hydroxystearic acid or a precursor thereof. These compositions are in bar form, so stability issues and the selection of myristic acid with a defined fatty acid level to stabilize a liquid composition are not relevant.

[0009] U.S. Patent No. 5,876,705 to Uchiyama et al. discloses conditioning shampoos that may contain 0.9-10% fatty compounds, including 12-HSA. These are not fatty acid based systems and do not address the problems or solutions associated with the compositions of the present invention.

[0010] U.S. Patent Nos. 5,885,948; 6,080,707; and 6,080,708, each to Glenn, Jr. et al., disclose liquid compositions comprising 0.5-10% by weight of a crystalline hydroxyl-containing liquid containing 12-HSA as a liquid stabilizer. None disclose fatty acid-based compositions; none recognize the problems associated with such compositions; and none envision the specific solutions of our invention (i.e., myristic acid window, lower polyol levels). [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]

[0011] [Patent Document 1] U.S. Patent No. 6,730,643 [Patent Document 2] U.S. Patent No. 5,876,705 [Patent Document 3] U.S. Pat. No. 5,885,948 [Patent Document 4] U.S. Patent No. 6,080,707 [Patent Document 5] U.S. Patent No. 6,080,708 Summary of the Invention [Means for solving the problem]

[0012] The present invention relates to 1) 10-45% by weight of C8-C 20 , preferably C 10 -C 20 or C 12 -C 18 or fatty acid soap (containing 0.1 to 5% of 12-HSA as described in point (3) below), wherein 45 to 65%, preferably 50 to 63%, more preferably 55 to 62% of the total fatty acid is C 14 myristic acid, a fatty acid or fatty acid soap; 2) less than 5% by weight, preferably 1 to 3% by weight, of a synthetic surfactant; 3) 0.1-5% by weight, preferably 0.5-4% by weight, of 12-hydroxystearic acid (12-HSA), the 0.1-5% 12-HSA being part of the 10-45% fatty acid of paragraph (1) above; 4) 20 to 50% by weight, preferably 21 to 40% by weight, more preferably 25 to 35% by weight, of a polyol, and 5) 0 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 3% by weight, preferably 0.03 to 2% by weight of a cationic polymer A liquid cleansing composition comprising: The liquid cleanser composition has a pH of 8.0 to 11.0, preferably 8.5 to 10.0. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS

[0013] Except in the examples or where otherwise expressly indicated, all numbers in this description expressing amounts of ingredients or reaction conditions, physical properties and / or uses of ingredients should be understood to be modified by the term "about." Unless otherwise specified, all amounts are by weight of the final composition.

[0014] It should be noted that in specifying any range of concentrations or amounts, any particular upper concentration can be associated with any particular lower concentration or amount.

[0015] For the avoidance of doubt, the term "comprising" is intended to mean "including" but not necessarily "consisting of" or "consisting of." In other words, the listed steps or options need not be exhaustive.

[0016] The disclosure of the invention found herein should be considered to encompass all embodiments that appear in the claims as being multiple dependent on one another, regardless of the fact that the claims may be found without multiple dependency or redundancy.

[0017] The present invention relates to liquid cleansing compositions, particularly fatty acid soaps and fatty acid based liquids that contain 12-HSA as a benefit agent. 12-HSA is a well-known Ppar activator that can impact skin health.

[0018] However, 12-HSA may affect the structuring, rheology, processing, and / or stability of the formulation (e.g., formation of a phase-separating product).

[0019] Applicants have found that when the fatty acids and fatty acid soaps in the final composition are selected to fall within defined compositions and ranges (in low synthesis surfactant compositions based on fatty acids and fatty acid soaps), and the polyols are maintained at defined lower levels (requiring the use of at least a certain amount), 12-HSA can be incorporated such that the final composition is processable and stable, where "processable" and "stable" are defined below.

[0020] fatty acid The composition of the present invention contains 10% to 45% by weight, preferably 20% to 45% by weight, more preferably 25% to 45% by weight of a fatty acid or a fatty acid soap. The chain length of the fatty acid or the fatty acid soap is C8-C 20 , preferably C 10 -C 20 or C 12 -C 18 The 10-45% range contains 0.1-5% 12-HSA.

[0021] Applicants have found that a specific window of myristic acid is necessary to incorporate 12-HSA and maintain processability, stability, or both. Specifically, 45%-65%, preferably 50-63%, and more preferably 55-62% of the free fatty acids (non-neutralized fatty acids) are C. 14 (Myristic) fatty acids must be present.

[0022] Surfactants The particular type of co-surfactant that may be used as a co-surfactant in the primarily fatty acid and fatty acid soap based compositions of the present invention is not critical. It may be any anionic, nonionic, amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactant, as is well known to those skilled in the art. It is only important that they are low-synthesis surfactant systems, for example, comprised at 0-5% by weight of the composition, preferably 0.5-4% by weight, more preferably 1-3% by weight.

[0023] 12-HSA The composition of the present invention contains 0.1-5% by weight, preferably 0.5-4% by weight, of 12-hydroxystearic acid. This is part of 10%-45% fatty acids and fatty acid soaps. As indicated, the use of 12-HSA in compositions based on low synthetic surfactants, fatty acids and fatty acid soaps usually results in processing problems and phase instability. By selecting the type and amount of fatty acids and fatty acid soaps and polyols, 12-HSA can be processed and maintained as a stable formulation.

[0024] Polyol Another important component of the formulations of the present invention is that they contain more than 20% by weight of polyol, preferably 21-40% by weight, more preferably 25-35% by weight. Insufficient polyol can lead to stress instability and result in phase separation, even when the fatty acid type and amount are properly selected.

[0025] Preferred polyols include glycerin and short chain alkylene glycols such as propylene or ethylene glycol.

[0026] Other Ingredients In addition to 12-HSA, the compositions of the invention may contain, for example, 0-15% by weight, preferably 0.1-10% by weight or 0.1-5% by weight, of a skin benefit agent which may include an oil-soluble emollient or moisturizing oil. These molecules may increase hydration by preventing water loss (occlusive), drawing in water (humectants) or restoring moisturizing factors to the skin (e.g. amino lipids).

[0027] Examples of moisturizing agents include petrolatum, silicones, vegetable oils or triglyceride oils.Restoring agents include vitamins (vitamin A or E); lipids (e.g., cholesterol), vegetable butters (shea butter), and minerals, such as zinc or magnesium.

[0028] The compositions may contain 0.1-7% structurants, which may include, for example, carbohydrate gums (e.g., cellulose gums), polyacrylates (e.g., Carbopol®, Aculyn® polymers), or mixtures thereof.

[0029] The compositions may also contain 0.01-2% or 1% of a preservative (e.g., paraben, methylisothiozolinone, benzoic acid, phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof).

[0030] They may contain one or more additional ingredients. Non-limiting examples of such additional ingredients are, for example, colorants, pigments, opacifiers, fragrances (whether encapsulated or present as free fragrance), emotional oils, vitamins and vitamin derivatives, abrasives, optical agents (including, for example, reflective particles and interference pigments), pH adjusters, botanical extracts, essential oils, preservatives, antioxidants, antimicrobial agents, viscosity modifiers, water retention agents, beard wetting agents, sensates, fatty acid soaps, and skin and / or hair benefit agents (e.g., aloe, allantoin, panthenol, alpha hydroxy acids, phospholipids, botanical oils, amino acids, to name a few). The selection and amount of any individual additional ingredient will depend on factors including the particular ingredient, the desired properties, and the intended use of the composition for which it is used. For example, fragrances are typically used in amounts of 0.1-3.0% or more by weight of the composition. For most compositions, the total amount of such additional ingredients is from 0.01 to 30 wt.%, more specifically from 0.1 to 15 wt.%, and even more specifically from 1 to 10 wt.%, based on the total weight of the composition. In one or more embodiments, the total amount of such additional optional ingredients is from 0.5 to 5 wt.%.

[0031] The composition is aqueous based and usually contains 5-40% by weight of water, preferably 8-20% by weight of water, with water being the balance amount after all the ingredients described above are taken into account.

[0032] The composition of the present invention preferably has a pH of 8.0 to 11.0, more preferably 8.5 to 10.0.

[0033] In another aspect, the present invention provides a method of providing a stable, processable (both as defined) liquid composition comprising 12-HSA, the method comprising forming the composition of claim 1.

[0034] Processing The compositions of the present invention are prepared as follows: The fatty acids, polyols, structurants (e.g., alkylene glycol distearate), and chelating agents (e.g., EDTA) were combined in a main vessel and heated to 75-80°C. When the fatty acids were melted, the mixture was stirred. When everything was melted and homogenous, the heat was removed and potassium hydroxide, co-surfactant (e.g., decyl glucoside), and cationic polymer were added. After cooling, the emotives, fragrance, and preservatives were added.

[0035] Protocols and Definitions The term "processable liquid cleanser" is defined as a skin cleansing liquid composition that has a rheology such that when produced in a container equipped with a mixing blade(s), the product does not become so thick that the blade(s) can no longer mix the ingredients.

[0036] For the purposes of the present invention, mixing is performed with six blades, the blades being rectangular in shape and measuring 5 cm x 4 cm, the blades rotating at 130-140 revolutions per minute (rpm).

[0037] Under these processing conditions, if the mixer cannot mix at a speed of 130-140 rpm, the product is considered too "thick" and cannot be processed.

[0038] The term "Stress Stable Liquid Cleanser" is defined as a skin cleansing liquid composition that does not phase separate when exposed to 45° C. conditions for at least two weeks.

[0039] [Example] The following table contains some non-limiting examples of the present invention. Ingredients are reported as percent active ingredient. [Table 1]

[0040] In Comparative Example A, myristic acid (used at a level of 17.5%) comprises only about 44% (43.9%) of the total fatty acids and fatty acid soaps used. This amount is calculated by first calculating the amount of fatty acid soap, i.e., the amount produced from potassium hydroxide, and then calculating the amount of myristic acid relative to the total fatty acids and soaps. Specifically, this is noted below: Molar mass ratio of potassium to potassium hydroxide:

number

[0041] -Calculate the % potassium reacted for each condition: Example: Composition A 7.03% KOH is added to the batch so that:

number

[0042] -Myristic acid ratio calculation

number

[0043] At 44% myristic, the composition is not processable as defined: therefore, above 44% C 14 (Myristic acid) is necessary.

[0044] In comparison B, myristic acid (26.25%) is 75% of the total fatty acids (26.25 / 26.25+7.36+1.39(total fatty acids)+5.0(potassium soaps), which equals 26.25 / 40%=65.6%). This comparison failed the stress test; therefore, C 14 If the level exceeds 65%, the level of myristic acid is too high.

[0045] In Example 1, myristic acid represents 60.18% of the total fatty acids (25 (myristic) / 41.54 (total fatty acids and soaps). This "sweet spot" of 45-65% represents the region where the composition is processable and stable (as defined in the protocol as "stress stable").

[0046] Comparative C defines a composition having a ratio of myristic acid to total fatty acids and soaps of 45-65% (25 / 45.39 or 55.8%), except that the level of 12-HSA is 7%; this is above the upper level of 5% HSA required by the present invention. As can be seen, this composition is not processable.

[0047] Similarly, in both Comparatives D and E, the myristic acid level falls within the critical ratio of total fatty acids and soaps (25 / 39.97 or 62.5%). Additionally, the 12-HSA level is also below 5%, which is within the inventive levels. However, the polyol levels (10% and 15%, respectively) are below the lower limit required by the invention, and therefore both compositions are not processable.

[0048] In the examples, the calculations refer to the ingredients added. Note that in our examples, only fatty acids are added, not fatty acid soaps. However, if soaps were added during the formation of the calculation, the numerator would be changed to myristic acid soaps in addition to myristic acid (e.g., any myristic acid soaps added or formed during the addition), and the denominator would be changed to total fatty acids + total fatty acid soaps (not including potassium soaps formed from KOH) + potassium (which is potassium soaps formed from KOH as described). Thus, the 55-62% in that case represents the weight percent of myristic acid and myristic acid soaps relative to the total fatty acids, total fatty acid soaps (not including potassium soaps formed), and potassium soaps.

[0049] It can be seen that the present invention defines the critical regions necessary for the composition to be processable and stable.

Claims

1. a) 10 to 45% by weight of C 10 -C 20 fatty acids or fatty acid soaps (containing 0.5 to 4% 12-HSA as defined in subparagraph (c) below), wherein 50 to 63% of the total fatty acids and fatty acid soaps are C 10 -C 20 fatty acids or fatty acid soaps. 14 myristic acid, a fatty acid or fatty acid soap; b) 1 to 3% by weight of a synthetic surfactant; c) 0.5 to 4% by weight of 12-hydroxystearic acid (12-HSA), wherein 0.5 to 4% of 12-HSA is part of component (a); d) 21 to 40% by weight of a polyol; e) 0.01 to 3% by weight of a cationic polymer, and f) The balance amount of water A liquid cleansing composition comprising: The liquid cleansing composition has a pH of 8.0 to 11.

0.

2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the C 10 -C 20 fatty acid or fatty acid soap is a C 12 -C 18 fatty acid or fatty acid soap.

3. The composition described in claim 1 or 2, wherein the composition contains an alkyl glucoside.

4. The composition of any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the polyol is selected from the group consisting of glycerin, alkylene glycols, and mixtures thereof.

5. 5. A method of providing a stable, processable liquid composition comprising 12-HSA, said method comprising forming a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4.

6. a) combining fatty acids, polyols, water and structuring agents and optional chelating agents in a vessel; b) heating until all components of step a) are melted to produce a mixture; c) adding KOH, a cationic polymer, and a co-surfactant; and d) cooling and recovering the liquid composition. The method of claim 5 , comprising:

Citation Information

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