Cosmetic composition and cosmetics containing said composition

Abstract

Focusing on the cuticle layer present on the surface of camellia leaves, which has not been effectively utilized until now, we have effectively utilized these components by using an extract obtained by extracting the waxes and other components that make up the cuticle layer with a fat-soluble solvent. As a result, we have provided a cosmetic composition containing a cuticle extract obtained by extracting camellia leaves with a fat-soluble solvent. We also provide cosmetics containing the above cosmetic composition.

Description

[Technical field]

[0001] The present invention relates to an extract from camellia leaves, more particularly to an extract from the cuticle layer present on the surface of camellia leaves. [Background technology]

[0002] Camellias are evergreen broad-leaved trees that belong to the same genus Camellia as camellias or sasanquas, and the wild species is called yabutsubaki. Among camellias, those from the Izu Islands and Toshima (Tokyo), Izu (Shizuoka Prefecture), Fukue Island in the Goto Islands (Nagasaki Prefecture), and Sado Island (Niigata Prefecture) are famous.

[0003] Camellia seeds contain oils such as oleic acid, and the camellia oil obtained from these seeds has been used since ancient times as hair oil, edible oil, etc. It is also used as a raw material for medicines, paints, etc. In contrast, camellia leaves are used as glazes and as a mordant for purple dyes, but their other uses are almost unknown.

[0004] In order to make effective use of these camellia leaves, a fermented tea (hereinafter referred to as "mixed tea") has been produced by mixing third-grade tea leaves and camellia leaves in a ratio of 9:1, and it has been reported that the mixed tea reduces serum triglyceride and phospholipid concentrations (Non-Patent Document 1, hereinafter referred to as "Conventional Example 1").

[0005] In recent years, it has been reported that Camellia japonica has strong anti-allergic and anti-inflammatory effects, and that it contains the ragic acid glycoside "okicamelliaside" as a degranulation inhibitor, and the quercetin glycoside "camellianoside" as an antioxidant. A decoction of camellia leaves is said to be effective against gastrointestinal bleeding and has been drunk in Okinawa for a long time, and the scientific safety of a methanol extract obtained from the leaves has been verified and reported (see Non-Patent Document 2, hereinafter referred to as "Conventional Example 2").

[0006] The outside of the leaves and bodies of terrestrial plants is covered with a layer made of lipid-soluble compounds that are impermeable to water (see Figure 1(A)). First, the outermost layer of the leaf surface is a layer made of only wax (the wax layer). The wax present here exists in various states, from crystalline to amorphous structures.

[0007] Next, beneath the wax layer is a layer that is formed on the cell wall and contains a lot of fat-soluble substances called the "cuticle layer. The cuticle layer protects the leaves and body of terrestrial plants from external environmental factors such as wind, rain, dryness, ultraviolet rays, and pathogens.

[0008] The cuticle layer can be further divided into two layers, an upper layer and a lower layer. Here, the upper layer is composed entirely of oily substances and is completely cuticle-like. In contrast, the lower layer is mainly made of cutin, and is not composed entirely of oily substances, with carbohydrate fibers from the cell wall sometimes extending and penetrating into it. Here, cutin is a polymer of unsaturated fatty acids, and wax (referring to vegetable wax here) is known to be a fatty acid ester (see Non-Patent Documents 3 and 4). [Prior art documents] [Non-patent literature]

[0009] [Non-Patent Document 1] https: / / www.pref.nagasaki.jp / e-nourin / nougi / topic / tsubakikongou / H21-56.pdf [Non-Patent Document 2] Journal of the Japanese Society for Food Science and Technology Vol. 55, No. 8, pp. 379-383, August 2008

[0010] [Non-Patent Document 3] https: / / jspp.org / hiroba / q_and_a / detail.html?id=1969 [Non-Patent Document 4] http: / / www.biol.tsukuba.ac.jp / ~algae / BotanyWEB / leaf3.html Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0011] The mixed tea of ​​Conventional Example 1 is produced by mixing third-grade tea leaves and camellia leaves in a ratio of 9:1, and the hot water extract from these tea leaves is excellent in that it has the above-mentioned effects. However, here, camellia leaves are used as a raw material for tea, a beverage, so the solvent used for extraction is hot water. For this reason, extraction with a highly fat-soluble solvent has not been considered at all.

[0012] Conventional Example 2 relates to multiple glycosides that have allergy and anti-inflammatory effects contained in Camellia japonica. When extracting compounds with pharmacological effects from plants, etc., it is common to use organic solvents that are compatible with water (hydrophilic organic solvents), such as methanol and ethyl acetate. The compounds with pharmacological effects as described above obtained in Conventional Example 2 are hydrophilic glycosides contained in the extract extracted with methanol.

[0013] For this reason, the safety of methanol extracts of camellia leaves is being verified. Conventional Example 2 is an excellent invention in that it verified the safety of methanol extracts, but it does not take into consideration at all the possibility of extracting camellia leaves with a highly fat-soluble solvent.

[0014] In other words, although efforts have been made to utilize the hydrophilic components contained in camellia leaves, little research has been done on the components of the cuticle layer that forms on the surface of the leaves, which is a characteristic of camellia leaves, and little is known about its uses, so there has been a problem in not being able to fully utilize camellia leaves as a natural material.

[0015] The present invention has been made in consideration of the above-mentioned circumstances, and focuses on the cuticle layer present on the surface of camellia leaves, which has not been effectively utilized up until now, and aims to fully utilize camellia leaves by using an extract obtained by extracting the components such as wax that constitute the cuticle layer with a fat-soluble solvent. [Means for solving the problem]

[0016] The inventors of the present invention have conducted intensive research under the above circumstances, discovered the effects of an extract obtained from the cuticle layer of camellia leaves (hereinafter sometimes referred to as "camellia leaf wax"), and completed the present invention.

[0017] That is, one aspect of the present invention is It is a hydrocarbon solvent. Lipid-soluble solvent Camellia leaves by An extract comprising: A cosmetic composition comprising a cuticle extract, wherein the camellia is preferably any one selected from the group consisting of wild species and horticultural varieties thereof.

[0018] The native species is preferably any one selected from the group consisting of Camellia japonica, Camellia japonica, and Camellia japonica var. macrocarpa.

[0019] The horticultural variety is preferably any one selected from the group consisting of Camellia japonica 'Kamo-hon-nami', Camellia japonica 'Tarokaja', Camellia japonica 'Tama-no-ura', Camellia japonica 'Tama-gasumi', Camellia japonica 'Moshio', Camellia japonica 'Ezonishiki', Camellia japonica 'Soushiarai', Camellia japonica 'Bokuhan', Camellia japonica 'Hishi-karaito', and Camellia japonica 'Murage'. Moreover, it is preferable that the camellia leaves are either fresh leaves or naturally dried leaves.

[0020] The fat-soluble solvent is a hydrocarbon solvent, such as n-hexane, cyclohexane, isohexane, methylcyclohexane, normal pentane, isooctane, squalane, and The solvent is preferably any solvent selected from the group consisting of liquid paraffin, and more preferably n-hexane. Also, the cuticle extract is preferably a concentrated extract obtained by extracting with the fat-soluble solvent. Furthermore, the cuticle extract has antibacterial properties. It is preferable that the material has an oxidizing effect and a water vapor transmission rate inhibiting effect.

[0021] Another aspect of the present invention is a cosmetic comprising the above-mentioned cosmetic composition in a predetermined amount, preferably selected from the group consisting of skin lotion, milky lotion, cream, face wash foam, cleansing foam, gel, hair lotion, hair gel, hair cream, and lip cream.

[0022] The predetermined amount is preferably within a range of 0.005 to 5% by weight when the weight of the cosmetic containing the composition is taken as 100%.

[0023] The wild species, horticultural varieties, and camellia leaves are preferably as described above. The fat-soluble solvent is preferably as described above. The cuticle extract is preferably a concentrated extract obtained by extracting with the fat-soluble solvent. Effect of the Invention

[0024] According to the present invention, an extract containing fat-soluble components extracted from a natural material, camellia leaves, using a fat-soluble solvent can be effectively utilized. In addition, since water-soluble components are not extracted with a fat-soluble solvent, the water-soluble components can be further extracted thereafter, and the camellia leaves can be fully and effectively utilized. Furthermore, by incorporating a cosmetic composition containing the thus obtained Camellia japonica cuticle extract, it is possible to obtain cosmetics that have excellent storage stability and are resistant to deterioration in product quality. [Brief description of the drawings]

[0025] [Figure 1] Figure 1 shows the surface of a camellia leaf. Figure 1(A) shows that the surface of a camellia leaf repels water. Figure 1(B) and (C) are scanning electron microscope photographs showing the structure of the underside of a camellia leaf. [Diagram 2] FIG. 2 is a schematic diagram showing a cross section of a Camellia japonica leaf.

[0026] [Diagram 3] FIG. 3 is a graph showing the results of a test examining the ultraviolet light absorption of camellia leaf wax. [Figure 4] FIG. 4 is a graph showing the IR spectrum of camellia leaf wax. [Diagram 5] FIG. 5 is a graph showing the amount of water vapor transmitted. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS

[0027] The present invention will now be described in further detail. In the present invention, camellia leaves are used as a raw material for cuticle extract (camellia leaf wax). The camellia leaves used as the raw material for extraction can be either native species growing in Japan or horticultural varieties.

[0028] Here, the term "native species" refers to plants that continue to live in natural conditions without being cultivated, and refers to plants that undergo inter-varietal or inter-specific hybridization in natural conditions.

[0029] A horticultural variety is a plant variety that has been artificially created through crossbreeding, selection, etc. When a trait is fixed, it is passed on to the next generation, but in the case of the first generation of hybrids (F1), the trait lasts only for one generation and is not passed on to the next generation.

[0030] Camellia leaves repel water on their surface, as shown in Figure 1(A). When the underside of a leaf is observed with a scanning electron microscope (SEM), microscopic images like those in Figures 1(B) and (C) can be obtained. The scale in Figure 1(B) is 100 nm, and that in Figure 1(C) is 10 nm. Figure 1(C) shows that there is an area in the lower right where the wax has been crushed and appears shiny.

[0031] The cross section of a Camellia japonica leaf is as shown in Figure 2. Here, the top (left side) of the paper represents the front side of the leaf, and the bottom (right side) represents the underside of the leaf. The structure of a Camellia japonica leaf, from the front side, is the cuticle layer, below that is the upper epidermis, below that is palisade tissue, below that is spongy tissue, then the lower epidermis and cuticle layer. The leaf's vascular bundles are arranged within the spongy tissue. Stomata are also scattered here and there on the underside of the leaf.

[0032] The epidermis has the role of preventing water from evaporating from places other than the stomata. The palisade tissue, unlike other plants, has a two-layer structure with elongated cells densely packed together, and is responsible for most of the photosynthesis in the leaf. For this reason, the chloroplasts are arranged in large numbers along the cell membrane.

[0033] In addition, spongy tissue has many air spaces (intercellular spaces) and cells are arranged irregularly to allow gas exchange through stomata. Chloroplasts are also contained in spongy tissue. Various substances synthesized in palisade tissue are sent to the vascular bundles located in spongy tissue and are used to maintain the plant body.

[0034] Examples of native species include Camellia japonica and its varieties, Camellia japonica var. macrocarpa and Camellia japonica var. macrocarpa. Camellia japonica is a variety adapted to areas with heavy snowfall such as the Japan Sea coast, while Camellia japonica is a variety adapted to islands such as Yakushima and Okinawa.

[0035] Examples of horticultural varieties include Camellia japonica 'Kamo-hon-nami', Camellia japonica 'Tarokaja', Camellia japonica 'Tama-no-ura', Camellia japonica 'Tama-gasumi', Camellia japonica 'Moshio', Camellia japonica 'Ezonishiki', Camellia japonica 'Soushiarai', Camellia japonica 'Bokuhan', Camellia japonica 'Hishi-karaito', and Camellia japonica 'Murage'.

[0036] These camellia leaves may be fresh leaves obtained after pruning or the like, or dried leaves obtained by drying fresh leaves (hereinafter referred to as "dried camellia leaves") may be used.

[0037] The above-mentioned camellia leaves are cut into pieces of about 0.1 to 2 mm square using, for example, a grinder, a multi-cutter, etc. The cut camellia leaves are subjected to extraction with a fat-soluble solvent as described below. Leaves not used for solvent extraction are stored in a cool, dark place.

[0038] The following describes an example of using dried leaves that have been heated and dried: A desired amount of dried leaves cut into about 0.1 to 2 mm cubes, for example 100 g, is weighed out and placed in a beaker-type container with a capacity of about 2 L, and a desired fat-soluble solvent, for example about 900 mL of n-hexane, in a volume about 9 times the weight of the dried leaves is added thereto, and extraction is performed at room temperature for about 2 hours while shaking at 40°C.

[0039] After the extraction is completed, the contents of the vessel are transferred onto, for example, a Buchner funnel with a diameter of about 300 mm, and the solid matter and the extract are separated by filtration. The resulting extract is then concentrated, for example, using a rotary evaporator equipped with a water bath, to obtain a cuticle layer extract (camellia leaf wax). The resulting cuticle layer extract (camellia leaf wax) contains fatty acid esters and the like.

[0040] The camellia leaf wax obtained as described above is blended in a predetermined amount into various cosmetic products, such as skin lotion, milky lotion, cream, face wash, cleansing foam, gel, hair lotion, hair gel, hair cream, lip cream, etc. For example, when the weight of the cosmetic product blended with the cosmetic composition (camellia leaf wax) is taken as 100%, the content of the cosmetic composition (camellia leaf wax) in the cosmetic product is preferably in the range of about 0.01 to about 10% by weight.

[0041] The reason why the above-mentioned predetermined blending amount is about 0.01 to about 10% by weight is as follows. Firstly, if it is less than about 0.01% by weight, deterioration of the cosmetic due to oxidation cannot be sufficiently prevented. Conversely, if it exceeds about 10% by weight, the effect of preventing deterioration of the cosmetic due to oxidation does not improve any more, and the feeling of use of the cosmetic also deteriorates. In view of the balance between the antioxidant effect and the feeling of use, it is more preferable that it is about 0.1 to about 1%.

[0042] The properties of the camellia leaf wax obtained as described above can be confirmed by antioxidant tests, ultraviolet absorption measurements, etc. In the antioxidant test, for example, dibutylhydroxytoluene (BHT) is used as a positive control, and the strength of the activity can be confirmed by comparing the extent to which the oxidation of squalene can be inhibited when an appropriate plant wax is used. EXAMPLES

[0043] The present invention will be described in more detail below with reference to examples, but the present invention is not necessarily limited to these examples.

[0044] (Example 1) Examination of antioxidant effect (1) Experimental materials and reagents Camellia japonica leaves were collected in Goto City, Nagasaki Prefecture in February 2017, dried by heating at 60-70°C, and cut into approximately 0.15 mm cubes.

[0045] n-Hexane, trichloroacetic acid, ethanol, butanol, and hydrochloric acid were purchased from Yoneyama Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd. Thiobarbitolic acid (hereinafter sometimes referred to as "TBA") and squalene were purchased from Nacalai Tesques, Inc. Candelilla wax, which was a control sample, was purchased from Yokoseki Oil Industries Co., Ltd., and dibutylhydroxytoluene (hereinafter abbreviated as "BHT") was purchased from Wako Pure Chemical Industries, Ltd.

[0046] As the TBA reagent, 0.375% thiobarbitolic acid, 15% trichloroacetic acid, and 0.25 N hydrochloric acid containing 2% ethanol were prepared. In addition, 100 g of dried camellia leaves were taken, and 9 volumes of n-hexane were added, and the mixture was extracted at 42°C for 2 hours, and filtered using qualitative filter paper No. 131.

[0047] The filtrate was placed in a 1,000 mL eggplant-shaped flask and concentrated under reduced pressure using a rotary evaporator in a water bath at 40°C. The yield of the test substance, "Camellia leaf cuticle layer extract" (hereinafter sometimes referred to as "cuticle layer extract" or "Camellia leaf wax"), was 2%. The resulting concentrated liquid was used as the "cuticle layer extract" in the following experiments.

[0048] (2) Antioxidant effect of cuticle extract The antioxidant effects of cuticle extract, candelilla wax, and BHT were evaluated when squalene was thermally oxidized. Specifically, cuticle extract, candelilla wax, and BHT were dissolved in 1 mL of squalene to the concentrations shown in Table 1 below, and the samples were left to stand at 50°C for 24 hours. 1 mL of squalene was used as a control.

[0049] Next, 0.1 mL of each sample was taken into a glass test tube, 1 mL of ethanol and 1 mL of TBA reagent were added and shaken, and the mixture was heated at 100°C for 60 minutes. After that, the test tubes were placed in an ice bath to cool to room temperature, and 2 mL of butanol was added to each test tube, which was then shaken well to mix and allowed to stand. The supernatant from each test tube was taken and the absorbance at 535 nm was measured. The results are shown in Table 1.

[0050] [Table 1]

[0051] Table 1 shows that the production of red reaction products caused by the oxidation of squalene is suppressed by the cuticle extract. The cuticle extract (camellia leaf wax) was more than six times more effective than candelilla wax even at the same concentration of 0.05%, and even at 1 / 10 the concentration, it was more than twice as effective. It was also shown that at 0.10%, it was about the same as BHT. From the above, it was confirmed that the cuticle extract has a strong antioxidant effect.

[0052] Example 2: Analysis of cuticle extract (1) Study of anti-ultraviolet effect A spectrophotometer was used to confirm whether the cuticle extract obtained in Example 1 (1) has an ultraviolet absorbing effect. The cuticle extract was dissolved in n-hexane to a concentration of 0.1% (w / v), and the change in absorbance from 260 to 450 nm was confirmed. The results are shown in FIG. 3.

[0053] As shown in FIG. 3, no peak was observed in the range of 280 to 380 nm for the cuticle extract, and no ultraviolet absorbing effect was confirmed.

[0054] From the above, it was confirmed that the cuticle extract has a strong antioxidant effect by itself, but does not have an ultraviolet absorbing effect.

[0055] (2) Analysis of components in cuticle extract The cuticle extract was subjected to infrared absorption (IR) analysis, and the spectrum shown in Figure 4 was obtained. From the IR spectrum shown in Figure 4, it was considered that the cuticle extract contained an ester wax.

[0056] To confirm whether the cuticle layer of camellia leaves contains fatty acids, 1 g of camellia leaf wax was dissolved in 50 mL of hexane and placed in a separatory funnel, 50 mL of 0.1 mol / L sodium hydroxide was added, shaken, and allowed to stand, and the aqueous layer was collected in a beaker. 50 mL of 0.1 mol / L sodium hydroxide was added to the hexane layer, shaken, and allowed to stand, and the aqueous phase was collected. This operation was performed twice. The collected aqueous phase was transferred to a separatory funnel, and an appropriate amount of 1 mol / L HCl was added to make the pH acidic. 50 mL of hexane was added, shaken, and allowed to stand, and the hexane phase was collected. The aqueous phase was returned to the separatory funnel, shaken with hexane, and allowed to stand, and the oil phase (hexane phase) was collected. This operation was performed twice in total. An appropriate amount of sodium sulfate (anhydrous) was added to the collected oil phase to dehydrate it. The liquid was filtered through filter paper (TOYO No. 131), the solvent was removed under reduced pressure, and the residue was weighed to obtain 0.005 g of fatty acids, which suggested that the fatty acid content was small.

[0057] (Example 3) Evaluation of skin barrier properties In order to examine whether the above-mentioned cuticle extract can be used as a cosmetic material to prevent dry skin, we investigated the extent to which it has the effect of suppressing the evaporation of water vapor from the skin (skin barrier effect). Filter paper (TOYO No. 131) was used as a model of the stratum corneum of the skin, and the composition containing the above-mentioned styrene and / or styrene derivative clustering extract was immersed in the filter paper, and the effect of inhibiting the evaporation of water vapor was measured. (Please confirm whether this statement is correct.)

[0058] The cuticle extract obtained in Example 1 was diluted with liquid paraffin to prepare samples 1 to 4 so as to have the concentrations shown in Table 2 below. 0.170 g of the prepared sample was immersed in the above filter paper using a dropper.

[0059] For the positive control, filter paper soaked in the same amount of liquid paraffin as the sample was used. For the negative control, filter paper alone was used. These were placed in a 20 mL glass screw bottle (Labolan screw bottle No. 5, AS ONE 9-852-07) with 5 g of calcium chloride (Fujifilm Wako Pure Chemical Industries, Ltd.), and the weights of these were measured.

[0060] Next, the mouth of each screw bottle was completely covered with Samples 1 to 4, the positive control, and the negative control, and the bottle was left to stand at 25°C and a humidity of 80%. The weight of each of the screw bottles was measured at the start of the standing. Then, the weight was measured after 24 hours and 48 hours, and the amount of water vapor absorbed by calcium chloride in each screw bottle was measured through the filter papers of Samples 1 to 4, the positive control, and the negative control.

[0061] The results are shown in Table 2. The weight increase when the negative control (dried filter paper not soaked in the above cuticle extract) was used was taken as 100%. The weights of the positive control and Samples 1 to 4 were expressed as a percentage (%) of the negative control to give the water vapor permeability, and the lower the water vapor permeability, the higher the barrier effect was determined. Table 2 shows the actual measured values, and Table 3 shows the permeability.

[0062] [Table 2] *The numbers at the bottom of each sample are the average weight of two samples.

[0063] [Table 3]

[0064] As shown in Tables 2 and 3 and Figure 5, the increase in calcium chloride weight was significantly suppressed in Samples 1 to 4 (containing camellia leaf wax) compared to the positive control (liquid paraffin). This result shows that camellia leaf wax has the effect of suppressing water vapor transmission rate, and that the skin barrier effect can be evaluated in this experiment.

[0065] As shown in Table 2, in sample 1 (cuticular extract concentration 50%), the water vapor transmission rate was lower after 48 hours than after 24 hours. This was thought to be because in this experiment, the water vapor transmission rate was calculated based on the weight of the negative control (dried filter paper), and therefore the weight of the negative control filter paper increased significantly.

[0066] (Production example) Tables 3 to 5 below show examples of the production of cosmetics containing the above-mentioned cuticle extract (camellia leaf wax).

[0067] [Table 4]

[0068] [Table 5]

[0069] [Table 6]

[0070] In the manner described above, a cosmetic product containing the cosmetic composition of the present invention can be produced. [Industrial Applicability]

[0071] The present invention is useful in the field of cosmetics.

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition comprising an extract of camellia leaves using a fat-soluble hydrocarbon solvent, the extract comprising a cuticle extract.

2. 2. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the fat-soluble solvent is any solvent selected from the group consisting of n-hexane, cyclohexane, isohexane, methylcyclohexane, normal pentane, isooctane, squalane, and liquid paraffin.

3. The cosmetic composition according to claim 2, wherein the fat-soluble solvent is n-hexane or squalane.

4. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the camellia is any one selected from the group consisting of wild species and horticultural varieties thereof.

5. The native species is selected from the group consisting of Camellia japonica, Camellia japonica, and Camellia japonica var. macrocarpa.

5. The cosmetic composition according to claim 4, which is any one of the above.

6. 4. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the cuticle extract is a concentrated extract obtained by extracting with the fat-soluble solvent.

7. The cosmetic composition according to claim 6, wherein the cuticle extract has antioxidant and water vapor permeability inhibitory effects.

8. A cosmetic comprising the cosmetic composition according to claim 6 or 7 in an amount of 0.005 to 5% by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic being 100%.

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