Agent for coloring keratinous materials using aminosilicone, coloring compound and organic carbonate
A dyeing system with an amino-functionalized silicone polymer, coloring compound, and organic carbonate ester addresses the limitations of oxidative and direct dyes by achieving durable and intense coloration with improved fastness and gray hair coverage.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- JP2022518333
- Authority / Receiving Office
- JP · JP
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2019-09-23
- Filing Date
- 2020-07-13
- Publication Date
- 2024-12-20
- Estimated Expiration
- 2040-07-13
AI Technical Summary
Existing hair dyeing technologies, particularly oxidative dyes, suffer from unpleasant odors, hair damage, and inadequate color fastness, while direct dyes provide short-lasting results, necessitating a solution for durable and intense coloration without using oxidative dye precursors.
A dyeing system comprising an amino-functionalized silicone polymer, a coloring compound, and an organic carbonate ester is used to achieve durable color fixation and improved gray hair coverage.
The system provides color intensity comparable to oxidative dyes with enhanced fastness properties and improved gray hair coverage, avoiding the drawbacks of traditional dyeing methods.
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Abstract
Description
[Technical field]
[0001] The subject of the present application is an agent for coloring keratinous materials, in particular human hair, which contains at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1), at least one coloring compound (a2) and at least one organic carbonate (a3).
[0002] A second subject of the present application is a method for dyeing keratinous materials, in particular human hair, in which an agent according to the first subject of the invention is applied to the keratinous materials, allowed to act and then rinsed off again with water. [Background technology]
[0003] Changing the shape and color of keratinous materials, especially human hair, is a key area of modern cosmetics. To change the color of hair, experts know a variety of coloring systems depending on the coloring requirements. Oxidation dyes are usually used for permanent and solid dyeing, have good fastness properties and provide good gray coverage. Such colorants usually contain oxidation dye precursors, so-called developer and coupler components, which form the actual dye between each other under the influence of an oxidizing agent such as hydrogen peroxide. Oxidation dyes are characterized by a very long-lasting dyeing result.
[0004] When using direct dyes, the ready-made dye diffuses from the coloring agent into the hair fiber. Compared to oxidative hair dyes, the stain obtained with direct dyes is short-lived and washes out quickly. The stain with direct dyes usually remains on the hair for 5 to 20 washes.
[0005] The use of color pigments is known to produce short-term color changes on hair and / or skin. Color pigments are understood to be insoluble coloring substances. They are present in the dye formulation in the form of small particles in an undissolved state and are only deposited on the outer surface of hair fibers and / or skin surfaces. Therefore, they can be removed without residue by rinsing several times with a detergent that usually contains a surfactant. Various products of this type are available on the market under the name of hair mascara.
[0006] If users want a particularly long-lasting coloring, the use of oxidative dyes has been the only option up to now. However, despite numerous optimization attempts, the unpleasant ammonia and amine odors in oxidative hair dyes cannot be completely avoided. Also, the hair damage still associated with the use of oxidative dyes has a negative effect on the user's hair. Therefore, a continuing challenge is the search for alternative high-performance dyeing processes. In particular, the color strength and wash fastness of dyeings based on the use of pigments still need to be improved. Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]
[0007] The object of the present invention was to provide a dyeing system that has a color strength as comparable as possible to oxidative dyeing.However, the oxidative dye precursors that are usually used for this purpose should not be used.There was a need for a technology that allows previously known coloring compounds, especially pigments, to be fixed in a very durable manner on hair.When using the agent in the dyeing process, a particularly strong dyeing result with good fastness should be achieved.In addition, the agent should also have improved gray hair coverage. [Means for solving the problem]
[0008] Surprisingly, it has been found that this problem can be solved excellently when keratinous materials, in particular hair, are colored with an agent containing at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1), at least one coloring compound (a2) and at least one ester oil (a3).
[0009] A first subject of the invention is an agent for coloring keratinous materials, in particular human hair, comprising: (a1) at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer, and (a2) at least one coloring compound, and (a3) at least one organic carbonate; Effect of the Invention
[0010] In the course of the research carried out in this invention, it was surprisingly found that the use of organic carbonates (a3) in an agent containing an aminosilicone (a1) and a coloring compound (a2) leads to an improvement in color strength when said agent is applied to keratinous materials, in particular human hair, in a dyeing process. These positive effects are observed when the coloring compound (a2) is a pigment. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS
[0011] [Keratinous substances] Keratinous materials include hair, skin, nails (e.g., fingernails and / or toenails). Wool, fur and feathers also fall within the definition of keratinous materials.
[0012] Preferably, keratinous material is understood to mean human hair, human skin and human nails, in particular the fingernails and toenails. Keratinous material is understood to be human hair.
[0013] [Coloring Agent] In the context of the present invention, the term "coloring" is used for the coloring of keratinous materials, hair coloring, which is caused by means of coloring compounds, in particular pigments, in which the pigments are deposited as coloring compounds on the surface of the keratinous materials in a particularly homogeneous, uniform and smooth film.
[0014] Amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1) As a first essential component (a1) of the present invention, the agent contains at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer, which may alternatively be called aminosilicone or amodimethicone.
[0015] Silicone polymers are macromolecules which have a molecular weight of at least 500 g / mol, preferably at least 1000 g / mol, more preferably at least 2500 g / mol, particularly preferably at least 5000 g / mol, and which contain repeating organic units.
[0016] The maximum molecular weight of a silicone polymer depends on the degree of polymerization (the number of monomers being polymerized) and the batch size, and is determined in part by the polymerization method. For purposes of this invention, a maximum molecular weight of a silicone polymer is 10 7 g / mol or less, preferably 10 6 g / mol or less, particularly preferably 10 5 It is preferred that it is less than or equal to g / mol.
[0017] Silicone polymers contain many Si-O repeat units, where the Si atoms may carry organic residues, such as alkyl or substituted alkyl groups, and are therefore alternatively referred to as polydimethylsiloxanes.
[0018] The silicone polymer is based on more than 10 Si-O repeat units, preferably more than 50 Si-O repeat units, more preferably more than 100 Si-O repeat units, and most preferably more than 500 Si-O repeat units, corresponding to a high molecular weight.
[0019] Amino-functionalized silicone polymer is understood to mean the functionalized silicone that has at least one structural unit with amino group.Preferably, amino-functionalized silicone polymer has a plurality of structural units, each of which has at least one amino group.Amino group is understood to mean primary amino group, secondary amino group and tertiary amino group.All said amino groups can be protonated in acidic environment and are present in their cationic form.
[0020] In principle, when amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1) has at least one primary, at least one secondary and / or at least one tertiary amino group, it can be used to advantage.However, the dyeings with the highest washing fastness are found when using the amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1) that contains at least one secondary amino group in the agent.
[0021] In one very particularly preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1) carrying at least one secondary amino group.
[0022] The secondary amino groups may be located in various portions of the amino-functionalized silicone polymer. At least one, and preferably more, of the formula (Si amino): [ka] Particularly advantageous effects have been observed when using amino-functionalized silicone polymers (a1) having the structural units
[0023] In the structural unit of formula (Si-amino), the abbreviations ALK1 and ALK2 independently represent linear or branched divalent C 1- C 20 Represents an alkylene group.
[0024] In another very particularly preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention is a compound represented by the formula (Si amino): [ka] [In the formula, ALK1 and ALK2 independently express linear or branched C 1- C 20 represents a divalent alkylene group. The silicone composition is characterized in that it comprises at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1) which comprises at least one structural unit of
[0025] Positions marked with an asterisk (*) indicate bonds to further structural units of the silicone polymer. For example, the silicon atom adjacent to the asterisk may be bonded to another oxygen atom, and the oxygen atom adjacent to the asterisk may be bonded to another silicon atom or even to a C 1- It may be bonded to a C6 alkyl group.
[0026] Divalent C 1- C 20 The alkylene group may alternatively be a divalent or divalent C 1- C 20 They may be referred to as alkylene groups, which means that each ALK1 or AK2 group can form two bonds.
[0027] In the case of ALK1, one bond arises from the silicon atom to the ALK1 group, and the second bond is between ALK1 and the secondary amino group.
[0028] In the case of ALK2, one bond is from the secondary amino group to the ALK2 group and the second bond is between ALK2 and the primary amino group.
[0029] Linear divalent C 1- C 20Examples of alkylene groups include methylene (-CH-), ethylene (-CH-CH-), propylene (-CH-CH-CH-), and butylene (-CH-CH-CH-CH-). The propylene group (-CH-CH-CH-) is particularly preferred. From a chain length of three C atoms, the divalent alkylene group may also be branched. Branched divalent, divalent C 3- C 20 Examples of alkylene groups are (-CH2-CH(CH3)-) and (-CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2-).
[0030] In another particularly preferred embodiment, the structural unit of the formula (Si amino) represents a repeat unit in the amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1), so that the silicone polymer comprises a plurality of structural units of the formula (Si amino).
[0031] Particularly suitable amino-functionalized silicone polymers (a1) having at least one secondary amino group are listed below.
[0032] The agent of the present invention is represented by the formula (Si-I) and the formula (Si-II): [ka] Dyeings with the best washing fastness could be obtained when the dyeing composition contains at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1) which contains structural units of the formula:
[0033] In a further specifically very particularly preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention is a compound represented by the formula (Si-I) and the formula (Si-II): [ka] The composition is characterized in that it contains at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1) which contains structural units of the formula:
[0034] The corresponding amino-functionalized silicone polymer having the structural units (Si-I) and (Si-II) is, for example, the commercial product DC 2-8566 or Dowsil 2-8566 Amino Fluid, sold by Dow Chemical Company and designated "Siloxanes and Silicones, 3-[(2-aminoethyl)amino]-2-methylpropyl Me, di-Me-siloxane" and CAS number 106842-44-8.
[0035] In another preferred embodiment, the agent of the present invention has the formula (Si-III): [ka] [In the formula, m and n are numbers selected such that the sum (n+m) is in the range of 1 to 1000, n is a number in the range of 0 to 999, and m is a number in the range of 1 to 1000. R1, R2 and R3 are the same or different and represent a hydroxy group or a C1-4 alkoxy group; where at least one of R1 to R3 represents a hydroxy group. at least one amino-functional silicone polymer (a1) of the formula:
[0036] Further preferred agents of the present invention have the formula (Si-IV): [ka] [where: p and q are numbers selected such that the sum (p+q) is in the range of 1 to 1000; p is a number in the range of 0 to 999, q is a number in the range of 1 to 1000, R1 and R2 are different and represent a hydroxy group or a C1-4 alkoxy group, and at least one of R1 to R2 represents a hydroxy group. at least one amino-functional silicone polymer (a1) of the formula:
[0037] Silicones of formula (Si-III) and formula (Si-IV) differ in the group at the Si atom bearing the nitrogen-containing group: in formula (Si-III), R2 represents a hydroxyl group or a C1-4 alkoxy group, while in formula (Si-IV) the group is a methyl group. The individual Si groups indicated by the subscripts m and n or p and q do not have to be present as blocks; rather, the individual units may be present in a statistically distributed manner, i.e., in formulas (Si-III) and (Si-IV), not every R1-Si(CH3)2 group is bonded to a -[O-Si(CH3)2] group.
[0038] Formula (Si-V): [ka] [where: A represents the group -OH, -O-Si(CH3)3, -O-Si(CH3)2OH, -O-Si(CH3)2OCH3, D represents the group -H, -Si(CH3)3, -Si(CH3)2OH, -Si(CH3)2OCH3; b, n and c each represent an integer of 0 to 1000. For more information n>0 and b+c>0 At least one of the conditions A=-OH or D=-H is satisfied. It has also been found that agents according to the invention which comprise at least one amino-functional silicone polymer (a1) of the formula are particularly effective in terms of the desired effect.
[0039] In the above formula (Si-V), the individual siloxane units having the subscripts b, c and n are statistically distributed, ie, not necessarily block copolymers.
[0040] The agent of the present invention has the formula (Si-VI): [ka] where R is a hydrocarbon or hydrocarbon residue having from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms and Q is represented by the general formula -R 1 HZ, where R 1 is bonded to hydrogen and to the Z residue and is a divalent linking group composed of a carbon atom and a hydrogen atom, a carbon atom, a hydrogen atom and an oxygen atom, or a carbon atom, a hydrogen atom and a nitrogen atom; Z is an organic amino functional residue containing at least one amino functional group; "a" has a value ranging from about 0 to about 2, "b" has a value ranging from about 1 to about 3, "a" + "b" is 3 or less, "c" is a number ranging from about 1 to about 3, x is a number ranging from 1 to about 2,000, preferably from about 3 to about 50, and most preferably from about 3 to about 25, y is a number ranging from about 20 to about 10,000, preferably from about 125 to about 10,000, and most preferably from about 150 to about 1,000; and M is a suitable silicone end group known in the prior art, preferably trimethylsiloxy. Non-limiting examples of groups represented by R include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl, and the like; alkenyl groups such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; cycloalkyl groups such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, and the like; phenyl groups, benzyl groups, halohydrocarbon residues such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl, and the like; and sulfur-containing groups such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl, and the like; preferably, R is an alkyl group containing from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and most preferably R is methyl. 1Examples include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH2CH2SCH2CH2-, -CH2CH2OCH2-, -OCH2CH2-, -OCH2CH2CH2-, -CH2CH(CH3)C(O)OCH2-, -(CH2)3CC(O)OCH2CH2-, -CH4C6H4-, -C6H4CH2C6H4-; and -(CH2)3C(O)SCH2CH2-.
[0041] Z is an organic amino functional group that contains at least one amino functional group. One example of the formula for Z is NH(CH2) z NH2, where z is 1 or greater. Another formula for Z is -NH(CH2) z (CH2) zz NH, where z and zz are both independently 1 or greater, and the structure includes a diamino ring structure, such as piperazinyl. Z is most preferably a -NHCH2CH2NH2 group. Another formula for Z is -N(CH2) z (CH2) zz NX2 or -NX2, where each X in X2 is independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and an alkyl group having 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and zz is 0.
[0042] Q is most preferably a polar amine functional residue of the formula -CH2CH2CH2NHCH2CH2NH2, where "a" has a value ranging from about 0 to about 2, "b" has a value ranging from about 2 to about 3, "a" + "b" is 3 or less, and "c" is a number ranging from about 1 to about 3. a Q b SiO (4-a-b) / 2 Unit:R c SiO (4-c) / 2 The molar ratio of units ranges from about 1:2 to 1:65, preferably from about 1:5 to about 1:65, and most preferably from about 1:15 to about 1:20. If more than one silicone of the above formula is used, the various variable substituents in the above formula may be different for the various silicone components present in the silicone mixture.
[0043] In one particularly preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises at least one amino-functional silicone polymer of formula (Si-VII): [ka] where: ·G is -H, phenyl group, -OH, -O-CH3, -CH3, -O-CH2CH3, -CH2CH3, -O-CH2CH2CH3, -CH2CH2CH3, -O-CH(CH3)2, -CH(CH3)2, -O-CH2CH2C H2CH3, -CH2CH2CH2CH3, -O-CH2CH(CH3)2, -CH2CH(CH3)2, -O-CH(CH3)CH2CH3, -CH(CH3)CH2CH3, -OC(CH3)3, -C(CH3)3; a stands for a number between 0 and 3, especially 0; b is a number between 0 and 1, especially 1, m and n are numbers whose sum (m+n) is 1 to 2000, preferably 50 to 150, where n is preferably a value of 0 to 1999 and 49 to 149, and m is preferably a value of 1 to 2000 and 1 to 10; R' is -QN(R'')-CH2-CH2-N(R'')2 -QN(R'')2 -QN + (R'')3A - -QN + H(R'')2A - -QN + H2(R'')A - -QN(R'')-CH2-CH2-N + R''H2A - , is a monovalent group selected from where each Q is a chemical bond, -CH2-, -CH2-CH2-, -CH2CH2CH2-, -C(CH3)2-, -CH2CH2CH2CH2-, -CH2C(CH3)2-, -CH(CH3)CH2CH2-; R'' is -H, -phenyl, -benzyl, -CH2-CH(CH3)Ph, C 1-20 represents an alkyl group, preferably the same or different groups selected from the group consisting of -CH3, -CH2CH3, -CH2CH2CH3, -CH(CH3)2, -CH2CH2CH2H3, -CH2CH(CH3)2, -CH(CH3)CH2CH3, -C(CH3)3, and A represents an anion preferably selected from chloride, bromide, iodide or methosulfate. means.
[0044] In another preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention has the formula (Si-VIIa): [ka] [In the formula, m and n are numbers whose sum (m+n) is 1 to 2000, preferably 50 to 150, and n is preferably assumed to have a value of 0 to 1999 and 49 to 149, and m is preferably assumed to have a value of 1 to 2000 and 1 to 10] The composition is characterized in that it contains at least one amino-functional silicone polymer (a1) of the formula:
[0045] According to the INCI declaration, such silicones are called trimethylsilylamodimethicones.
[0046] In the context of a further preferred embodiment, the agent of the present invention has the formula (Si-VIIb): [ka] [In the formula, R represents an -OH, -O-CH3 or -CH3 group; m, n1 and n2 are numbers whose sum (m+n1+n2) is 1 to 2000, preferably 50 to 150; the sum (n1+n2) is preferably assumed to have a value of 0 to 1999 or 49 to 149; and m is preferably assumed to have a value of 1 to 2000 or 1 to 10] The composition is characterized in that it contains at least one amino-functional silicone polymer (a1) of the formula:
[0047] According to the INCI declaration, such amino-functionalized silicone polymers are called amodimethicones.
[0048] Regardless of which aminofunctional silicone is used, agents containing aminofunctional silicone polymers with an amine number greater than 0.25 meq / g, preferably greater than 0.3 meq / g and greater than 0.4 meq / g, are preferred. Amine number represents the milligram equivalents of amine per gram of aminofunctional silicone. It can be determined by titration and is expressed in mg KOH / g.
[0049] Furthermore, agents containing the special 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone polymer (a1) are also suitable: This amino-functionalized silicone polymer contains structural units of the formula (SI-VIII) and structural units of the formula (Si-IX). [ka]
[0050] The corresponding 4-morpholinomethyl substituted silicone polymers are shown below.
[0051] A very particularly preferred amino-functionalized silicone polymer is known under the name amodimethicone / morpholinomethylsilsesquioxane copolymer and is commercially available in the form of the raw material Belsil ADM 8301 E from Wacker.
[0052] As the 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone, for example, silicones having structural units of the formulae (SI-VIII), (Si-IX) and (Si-X) can be used. [ka] During the ceremony, R1 is -CH3, -OH, -OCH3, -O-CH2CH3, -O-CH2CH2CH3 or -O-CH(CH3)2; R2 is -CH3, -OH or -OCH3.
[0053] Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention comprise at least one 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone of formula (Si-XI), [ka] Where: R1 is -CH3, -OH, -OCH3, -O-CH2CH3, -O-CH2CH2CH3 or -O-CH(CH3)2; R2 is -CH3, -OH or -OCH3. B represents the group -OH, -O-Si(CH3)3, -O-Si(CH3)2OH, -O-Si(CH3)2OCH3, D represents the group -H, -Si(CH3)3, -Si(CH3)2OH, -Si(CH3)2OCH3; a, b, and c each independently represent an integer from 0 to 1000, provided that a+b+c>0; m and n each independently represent an integer of 1 to 1000; however, At least one of the conditions B=-OH or D=-H is satisfied, · The units a, b, c, m and n are statistically distributed or block-like in the molecule.
[0054] Structural formula (Si-XI) is intended to show that the siloxane groups n and m are not necessarily directly bonded to the end groups B or D, respectively. Instead, in preferred formulae (Si-VI) a>0 or b>0, and in particularly preferred formulae (Si-VI) a>0 and c>0, i.e., the end groups B or D are preferably bonded to dimethylsiloxy groups. Also, in formula (Si-VI), the siloxane units a, b, c, m and n are preferably statistically distributed.
[0055] The silicones of formula (Si-VI) used according to the invention may be trimethylsilyl-terminated (D or B=-Si(CH3)3), but may also be dimethylsilylhydroxy-terminated at both ends or dimethylsilylhydroxy-terminated and dimethylsilylmethoxy-terminated at one end. Particularly preferred silicones in the context of the invention are, for each context: B=-O-Si(CH3)2OH and D=-Si(CH3)3 B=-O-Si(CH3)2OH and D=-Si(CH3)2OH B=-O-Si(CH3)2OH and D=-Si(CH3)2OCH3 B=-O-Si(CH3)3 and D=-Si(CH3)2OH B=-O-Si(CH3)2OCH3 and D=-Si(CH3)2OH These silicones provide a considerable improvement in the hair properties of hair treated with the agent of the invention, as well as seriously improved protection in oxidative treatments.
[0056] It has been found to be particularly advantageous when the agent according to the invention contains the amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1) in a specific amount range. Particularly satisfactory results have been obtained when the agent contains a total amount of 0.1 to 8.0% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 5.0% by weight, more preferably 0.3 to 3.0% by weight, most preferably 0.4 to 2.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the agent.
[0057] In another particularly preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains one or more amino-functionalized silicone polymers (a1) in a total amount of 0.1 to 8.0% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 5.0% by weight, more preferably 0.3 to 3.0% by weight and very particularly preferably 0.4 to 2.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the agent.
[0058] [Coloring compound (a2)] As a second essential component, the composition according to the invention contains at least one colouring compound (a2).
[0059] For the purposes of the present invention, a coloring compound is a substance capable of imparting coloration to keratin materials. Particularly well suited coloring compounds can be selected from the group of pigments, direct action dyes, photochromic dyes and thermochromic dyes.
[0060] In a further preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises at least one coloring compound (a2) from the group consisting of pigments, direct dyes, photochromic dyes and thermochromic dyes.
[0061] A pigment within the meaning of the present invention is a coloring compound that has a solubility in water at 25°C of less than 0.5 g / L, preferably less than 0.1 g / L, and even more preferably less than 0.05 g / L. Water solubility can be determined, for example, by the following method: 0.5 g of pigment is weighed into a beaker. A stirring bar is added. Then 1 liter of distilled water is added. The mixture is heated to 25°C for 1 hour while stirring with a magnetic stirrer. If undissolved components of the pigment are still visible in the mixture after this period, the solubility of the pigment is less than 0.5 g / L. If the pigment-water mixture cannot be visually evaluated due to the high intensity of the finely dispersed pigment, the mixture is filtered. If parts of the undissolved pigment remain on the filter paper, the solubility of the pigment is less than 0.5 g / L.
[0062] Suitable colour pigments can be of inorganic and / or organic origin.
[0063] In a preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises at least one coloring compound (a2) from the group consisting of inorganic and / or organic pigments.
[0064] The preferred color pigment is selected from synthetic or natural inorganic pigments. The inorganic color pigment of natural origin can be produced, for example, from chalk, ochre, umber, green earth, burnt terra di sienna, or graphite.Furthermore, as inorganic color pigment, black pigments such as black iron oxide, color pigments such as ultramarine or red iron oxide, fluorescent or phosphorescent pigments can be used.
[0065] Particularly suitable are colored metal oxides, hydroxides and oxide hydrates, mixed-phase pigments, sulfur-containing silicates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, chromates, and / or molybdates.Preferred color pigments are black iron oxide (CI 77499), yellow iron oxide (CI 77492), red and brown iron oxide (CI 77491), manganese violet (CI 77742), ultramarine blue (sodium aluminum sulfosilicate, CI 77007, Pigment Blue 29), chromium oxide hydrate (CI 77289), iron blue (ferric ferrocyanide, CI 77510), and / or carmine (cochineal).
[0066] According to the present invention, colored pearlescent pigments are also particularly preferred color pigments. They are usually mica and / or mica-based and can be coated with one or more metal oxides. Micas belong to the layered silicates. The most important representatives of these silicates are muscovite, phlogopite, sodalite, biotite, lepidolite, and margarite. To produce pearlescent pigments in combination with metal oxides, mica, muscovite or phlogopite are coated with metal oxides.
[0067] As an alternative to natural mica, synthetic mica coated with one or more metal oxides can also be used as pearlescent pigments. Particularly preferred pearlescent pigments are based on natural or synthetic mica (mica) and coated with one or more of the abovementioned metal oxides. The color of the respective pigment can be varied by varying the layer thickness of the metal oxide or oxides.
[0068] In a further preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one coloring compound (a2) from the group of inorganic pigments, preferably selected from the group of the colored metal oxides, metal hydroxides, metal oxide hydrates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, bronze pigments and / or from colored mica or mica-based pigments coated with at least one metal oxide and / or metal oxychloride.
[0069] In a further preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises (a) at least one coloring compound (a2) from the group of pigments selected from mica or mica-based pigments reacted with one or more metal oxides from the group consisting of titanium dioxide (CI 77891), black iron oxide (CI 77499), yellow iron oxide (CI 77492), red and / or brown iron oxide (CI 77491, CI 77499), manganese violet (CI 77742), ultramarine blue (sodium aluminum sulfosilicate, CI 77007, Pigment Blue 29), chromium oxide hydrate (CI 77289), chromium oxide (CI 77288) and / or iron blue (ferric ferrocyanide, CI 77510).
[0070] Examples of particularly suitable color pigments are commercially available under the trade names Rona®, Colorona®, Xirona®, Dichrona®, and Timiron® from Merck, Ariabel® and Unipure® from Sensient, Prestige® from Eckart Cosmetic Colors, and Sunshine® from Sunstar.
[0071] Particularly preferred color pigments having the trade name Colorona® are, for example: Colorona Copper, Merck, Mica, CI77491 (Iron Oxide) Colorona Passion Orange, Merck, Mica, CI77491 (Iron Oxide), Alumina Colorona Patina Silver, Merck, Mica, CI77499 (Iron Oxides), CI77891 (Titanium Dioxide) Colorona RY, Merck, CI77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Mica, CI75470 (Carmine) Colorona Oriental Beige, Merck, Mica, CI77891 (Titanium Dioxide), CI77491 (Iron Oxides) Colorona Dark Blue, Merck, Mica, Titanium Dioxide, Ferric Ferrocyanide Colorona Chameleon, Merck, CI77491 (iron oxide), mica Colorona Aborigine Amber, Merck, Mica, CI77499 (Iron Oxides), CI77891 (Titanium Dioxide) Colorona Blackstar Blue, Merck, CI77499 (iron oxide), mica Colorona Patagonian Purple, Merck, Mica, CI77491 (Iron Oxide), CI77891 (Titanium Dioxide), CI77510 (Ferric Ferrocyanide) Colorona Red Brown, Merck, Mica, CI77491 (Iron Oxides), CI77891 (Titanium Dioxide) Colorona Russet, Merck, CI77491 (Titanium Dioxide), Mica, CI77891 (Iron Oxides) Colorona Imperial Red, Merck, Mica, Titanium Dioxide (CI77891), D&C RED NO.30 (CI73360) Colorona Majestic Green, Merck, CI77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Mica, CI77288 (Chromium Oxide Green) Colorona Light Blue, Merck, Mica, Titanium Dioxide (CI77891), Ferric Ferrocyanide (CI77510) Colorona Red Gold, Merck, Mica, CI77891 (Titanium Dioxide), CI77491 (Iron Oxides) Colorona Gold Plus MP 25, Merck, Mica, Titanium Dioxide (CI77891), Iron Oxide (CI77491) Colorona Carmine Red, Merck, Mica, Titanium Dioxide, Carmine Colorona Blackstar Green, Merck, Mica, CI77499 (Iron Oxide) Colorona Bordeaux, Merck, Mica, CI77491 (Iron Oxide) Colorona Bronze, Merck, Mica, CI77491 (Iron Oxide) Colorona Bronze Fine, Merck, Mica, CI77491 (Iron Oxide) Colorona Fine Gold MP 20, Merck, Mica, CI77891 (Titanium Dioxide), CI77491 (Iron Oxide) Colorona Sienna Fine, Merck, CI77491 (iron oxide), mica Colorona Sienna, Merck, Mica, CI77491 (Iron Oxide) Colorona Precious Gold, Merck, Mica, CI77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Silica, CI77491 (Iron Oxide), Tin Oxide Colorona Sun Gold Sparkle MP 29, Merck, Mica, Titanium Dioxide, Iron Oxide, Mica, CI77891, CI77491(EU) Colorona Mica Black, Merck, CI77499 (iron oxides), mica, CI77891 (titanium dioxide) Colorona Bright Gold, Merck, Mica, CI77891 (Titanium Dioxide), CI77491 (Iron Oxides) Colorona Blackstar Gold, Merck, Mica, CI77499 (Iron Oxides).
[0072] Other particularly preferred color pigments having the trade name Xirona® are, for example: Xirona Golden Sky, Merck, Silica, CI77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Tin Oxide Xirona Caribbean Blue, Merck, Mica, CI77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Silica, Tin Oxide Xirona Kiwi Rose, Merck, Silica, CI77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Tin Oxide Xirona Magic Mauve, Merck, Silica, CI77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Tin Oxide.
[0073] In addition, particularly preferred color pigments having the trade name Unipure® are, for example: Unipure Red LC 381 EM, Sensient CI77491 (iron oxide), silica Unipure Black LC 989 EM, Sensient, CI77499 (iron oxide), silica Unipure Yellow LC 182 EM, Sensient, CI77492 (iron oxide), silica.
[0074] In a further embodiment, the agent according to the invention may also comprise one or more coloring compounds (a2) selected from the group consisting of organic pigments.
[0075] The organic pigments according to the invention are correspondingly insoluble organic dyes or colour lacquers, which may be selected, for example, from the group of the nitroso, nitro-azo, xanthene, anthraquinone, isoindolinone, isoindolinone, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, indigo, thioindide, dioxazine and / or triarylmethane compounds.
[0076] Examples of particularly suitable organic pigments are carmine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, sorghum, blue pigments having the Color Index Numbers CI42090, CI69800, CI69825, CI73000, CI74100, CI74160, yellow pigments having the Color Index Numbers CI11680, CI11710, CI15985, CI19140, CI20040, CI21100, CI21108, CI47000, CI47005, green pigments having the Color Index Numbers CI61565, CI61570, CI74260, and Color Index and orange pigments having the Color Index numbers CI11725, CI15510, CI45370, CI71105; red pigments having the Color Index numbers CI12085, CI12120, CI12370, CI12420, CI12490, CI14700, CI15525, CI15580, CI15620, CI15630, CI15800, CI15850, CI15865, CI15880, CI17200, CI26100, CI45380, CI45410, CI58000, CI73360, CI73915, and / or CI75470.
[0077] In another particularly preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention is preferably a pigment selected from the group consisting of carmine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, sorghum, blue pigments having the color index numbers CI42090, CI69800, CI69825, CI73000, CI74100, CI74160, yellow pigments having the color index numbers CI11680, CI11710, CI15985, CI19140, CI20040, CI21100, CI21108, CI47000, CI47005, green pigments having the color index numbers CI61565, CI61570, CI74260, green pigments having the color index numbers CI11725, CI155 10, CI45370, CI71105, orange pigments having the Color Index numbers CI12085, CI12120, CI12370, CI12420, CI12490, CI14700, CI15525, CI15580, CI15620, CI15630, CI15800, CI15850, CI15865, CI15880, CI17200, CI26100, CI45380, CI45410, CI58000, CI73360, CI73915, and / or CI75470.
[0078] The organic pigment may be a color paint. In the sense of the present invention, the term color lacquer means a particle that contains a layer of absorbed dye, and the particle and the dye unit are insoluble under the above-mentioned conditions. The particle may be, for example, an inorganic substrate. It may be aluminum, silica, calcium borosilicate, calcium aluminum borosilicate, or even aluminum.
[0079] For example, alizarin color varnish can be used.
[0080] Due to their excellent light and heat resistance, the use of the above pigments in the agent of the present invention is particularly preferred. It is also preferred that the pigments used have a specific particle size. Thus, according to the present invention, at least one pigment has an average particle size D of 1.0 to 50 μm, preferably 5.0 to 45 μm, preferably 10 to 40 μm, 14 to 30 μm. 50 It is advantageous to have an average particle size D 50 can be determined, for example, by dynamic light scattering (DLS).
[0081] The coloring compound (a2), a colorant compound from the group of the pigments, represents the second essential component of the agent according to the invention and is preferably used in the agent in a specific range of amounts.
[0082] Particularly satisfactory results have been obtained when the agents according to the invention contain one or more pigments (a2) in a total amount of 0.01 to 10.0% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 5.0% by weight, more preferably 0.2 to 2.5% by weight and very preferably 0.25 to 1.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the agent.
[0083] In another very particularly preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains one or more pigments (a2) in a total amount of 0.01 to 10.0% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 5.0% by weight, more preferably 0.2 to 2.5% by weight and very particularly preferably 0.25 to 1.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the agent.
[0084] As coloring compound (a2), the agent according to the invention may also contain one or more direct dyes. Direct action dyes are dyes that are absorbed directly into hair and do not require an oxidation process to form color. Direct dyes are usually nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones, triarylmethane dyes, or indophenols.
[0085] Direct dyes within the meaning of the present invention have a solubility in water (760 mmHg) of more than 0.5 g / L at 25° C. and therefore should not be considered as pigments.
[0086] Preferably, direct dyes within the meaning of the present invention have a solubility in water (760 mmHg) of more than 1.0 g / L at 25°C.
[0087] Direct dyes can be divided into anionic, cationic, and nonionic direct dyes.
[0088] In a further embodiment, the agent according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises at least one coloring compound (a2) from the group consisting of anionic, nonionic and cationic direct dyes.
[0089] Suitable cationic direct dyes include Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, HC Blue 16, Basic Violet 2 and Basic Violet 14, Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 16, Basic Blue 347 (Cationic Blue 347 / Dystar), HC Blue No. 16, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16, Basic Brown 17, Basic Yellow 57, Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31, Basic Red 51 Basic Red 76.
[0090] As non-ionic direct dyes, non-ionic nitro and quinone dyes as well as neutral azo dyes can be used.Suitable non-ionic direct dyes are those described under the following international names or trade names: HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, HC Orange 1, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 1, HC Red 3, HC Red 10, HC Red 11, HC Red 13, HC Red BN, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 11, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9 known compounds as well as 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 1,4-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-amino-2-nitrobenzene, 3-nitro-4-(2-hydroxyethyl)-aminophenol. 2-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-4,6-dinitrophenol, 4-[(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]-3-nitro-1-methylbenzene, 1-amino-4-(2-hydroxyethyl)-amino-5-chloro-2-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, 1-(2'-ureidoethyl)amino-4-nitrobenzene, 2-[(4-amino-2-nitrophenyl)amino]benzoic acid, 6-nitro-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, 2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone, picramic acid and its salts, 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoic acid, and 2-chloro-6-ethylamino-4-nitrophenol.
[0091] Anionic direct dyes are also called acid dyes. Acid dyes are direct dyes that have at least one carboxylic acid group (-COOH) and / or one sulfonic acid group (-SO3H). Depending on the pH value, the protonated forms of the carboxylic acid or sulfonic acid groups (-COOH, -SO3H) can be converted to their deprotonated forms (-COO - , -SO3 -The proportion of the protonated form increases with decreasing pH. When the direct dyes are used in the form of their salts, the carboxylic or sulfonic acid groups are present in deprotonated form and are neutralized with a corresponding stoichiometric equivalent of a cation to maintain electrical neutrality. The acid dyes of the present invention can also be used in the form of their sodium salts and / or their potassium salts.
[0092] Acid dyes within the meaning of the present invention have a water solubility (760 mmHg) of more than 0.5 g / L at 25° C. and therefore should not be considered as pigments. Preferably, acid dyes within the meaning of the present invention have a water solubility (760 mmHg) of more than 1.0 g / L at 25° C.
[0093] The alkaline earth (such as calcium and magnesium) or aluminum salts of acid dyes often have lower solubilities than the corresponding alkali salts. If the solubility of these salts is less than 0.5 g / L (25°C, 760 mmHg), they do not fall within the definition of direct dyes.
[0094] An essential feature of acid dyes is their ability to form an anionic charge, whereby the carboxylic or sulfonic acid groups involved are usually attached to different chromophore systems. Suitable chromophore systems can be found, for example, in the structures of nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinone dyes, triarylmethane dyes, xanthene dyes, rhodamine dyes, oxazine dyes and / or indophenol dyes.
[0095] In a further embodiment, the agent for dyeing keratinous materials is characterized in that it comprises at least one anionic direct dye selected from the group consisting of nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinone dyes, triarylmethane dyes, xanthene dyes, rhodamine dyes, oxazine dyes and / or indophenol dyes, the dyes from the above group each having at least one carboxylic acid group (-COOH), sodium carboxylate group (-COONa), potassium carboxylate group (-COOK), sulfonic acid group (-SO3H), sodium sulfonate group (-SO3Na) and / or potassium sulfonate group (-SO3K).
[0096] Suitable acid dyes may include, for example, one or more compounds selected from the following group: Acid Yellow 1 (D&C Yellow 7, Citronin A, Ext. D&C Yellow No. 7, Japan Yellow 403, CI10316, COLIPA n° B001), Acid Yellow 3 (COLIPA n°: C54, D&C Yellow N° 10, Quinoline Yellow, E104, Food Yellow 13), Acid Yellow 9 (CI13015), Acid Yellow 17 (CI18965), Acid Yellow 23 (COLIPA n° 29, Covacap Jaune W1100 (LCW), Sicovit Tartrazine 85 E102 (BASF), Tartrazine, Food Yellow 4, Japan Yellow 4, FD&C Yellow No. 5), Acid Yellow 36 (CI13065), Acid Yellow 121 (CI18690), Acid Orange 6 (CI14270), Acid Orange 7 (2-naphthol orange, Orange II, CI15510, D&C Orange 4, COLIPA n℃015), Acid Orange 10 (CI16230; Orange G sodium salt), Acid Orange 11 (CI45370), Acid Orange 15 (CI50120), Acid Orange 20 (CI14600), Acid Orange 24 (BROWN 1; CI20170; KATSU201; sodium salt; Brown No. 201; RESORCIN BROWN; ACID ORANGE24; Japan Brown 201; D&C Brown No. 1), Acid Red 14 (CI14720), Acid Red 18 (E124, Red 18; CI16255), Acid Red27 (E123, CI16185, C-Rot46, Real red D, FD&C Red Nr.2, Food Red9, Naphthol red S), Acid Red33 (Red33, Fuchsia Red, D&C Red33, CI17200), Acid Red35 (CIC.I.18065)、Acid Red51(CI45430、Pyrosin B、テトライオドフルオレセイン、Eosin J、イオデオシン)、Acid Red52(CI45100、Food Red106、Solar Rhodamine B、Acid Rhodamine B、Red n°106 Pontacyl Brilliant Pink)、Acid Red73(CI27290)、Acid Red87(Eosin、CI45380)、Acid Red92(COLIPA n℃53、CI45410)、Acid Red95(CI45425、Erythtosine、Simacid Erythrosine Y)、Acid Red184(CI15685)、Acid Red195、Acid Violet43(Jarocol Violet43、Ext.D&C Violet n°2、C.I.60730、COLIPA n℃063)、Acid Violet49(CI42640)、Acid Violet50(CI50325)、Acid Blue1(Patent Blue、CI42045)、Acid Blue3(Patent Blue V、CI42051)、Acid Blue7(CI42080)、Acid Blue104(CI42735)、Acid Blue9(E133、Patent Blue AE、Amido blue AE、Erioglaucin A、CI42090、C.I.Food Blue2)、Acid Blue62(CI62045)、Acid Blue74(E132、CI73015)、Acid Blue80(CI61585)、Acid Green3(CI42085、Foodgreen1)、Acid Green5(CI42095)、Acid Green9(C.I.42100)、Acid Green22(C.I.42170)、Acid Green25(CI61570、Japan Green201、D&C Green No.5)、Acid Green50(Brilliant Acid Green BS、C.I.44090, Acid Brilliant Green BS, E142), Acid Black1(Black n°401, Naphthalene Black10B, Amido Black10B, CI20 470, COLIPA n°B15), Acid Black52(CI15711), Food Yellow8(CI14270), Food Blue5, D&C Yellow8, D&C Green5, D&C Orange10, D&C Orange11, D&C Red21, D&C Red27, D&C Red33, D&C Violet2, and / or D&C Brown1. .
[0097] For example, the water solubility of an anionic direct dye can be determined as follows: 0.1 g of anionic direct dye is placed in a beaker. A stir bar is added. Then 100 mL of water is added. The mixture is heated to 25° C. while stirring with a magnetic stirrer. It is stirred for 60 minutes. The aqueous mixture is then visually evaluated. If there are still undissolved residues, the amount of water is increased, for example in 10 mL steps. Water is added until the amount of dye used is completely dissolved. If the dye-water mixture cannot be visually evaluated due to the high strength of the dye, the mixture is filtered. If parts of the undissolved dye remain on the filter paper, the solubility test is repeated with a larger amount of water. If 0.1 g of anionic direct dye dissolves in 100 mL of water at 25° C., the solubility of the dye is 1.0 g / L.
[0098] Acid Yellow 1 is called 8-hydroxy-5,7-dinitro-2-naphthalenesulfonic acid disodium salt and has a solubility in water of at least 40 g / L (25° C.).
[0099] Acid Yellow 3 is a mixture of the sodium salts of the mono- and cis-sulfonic acids of 2-(2-quinolyl)-1H-indene-1,3(2H)-dione and has a water solubility of 20 g / L (25° C.).
[0100] Acid Yellow 9 is known as the disodium salt of 8-hydroxy-5,7-dinitro-2-naphthalenesulfonic acid and has a solubility in water of greater than 40 g / L (25°C).
[0101] Acid Yellow 23 is the trisodium salt of 4,5-dihydro-5-oxo-1-(4-sulfophenyl)-4-((4-sulfophenyl)azo)-1H-pyrazole-3-carboxylic acid and is highly soluble in water at 25°C.
[0102] Acid Orange 7 is the sodium salt of 4-[(2-hydroxy-1-naphthyl)azo]benzenesulfonate. Its water solubility is greater than 7 g / L at 25 °C.
[0103] Acid Red 18 is a trinalium salt of 7-hydroxy-8-[(E)-(4-sulfonato-1-naphthyl)-diazenyl)]-1,3-naphthalenedisulfonate and has a remarkably high water solubility of more than 20% by weight.
[0104] Acid Red 33 is the dianthrlium salt of 5-amino-4-hydroxy-3-(phenylazo)-naphthalene-2,7-disulfonate and has a solubility in water of 2.5 g / L (25° C.).
[0105] Acid Red 92 is the disodium salt of 3,4,5,6-tetrachloro-2-(1,4,5,8-tetrabromo-6-hydroxy-3-oxoxanthen-9-yl)benzoic acid, whose solubility in water is shown to be greater than 10 g / L (25° C.).
[0106] Acid Blue 9 is the disodium salt of 2-({4-[N-ethyl(3-sulfonatobenzyl)amino]phenyl}{4-[(N-ethyl(3-sulfonatobenzyl)imino]-2,5-cyclohexadien-1-ylidene}methyl)-benzenesulfonate and has a solubility in water of greater than 20% by weight (25° C.).
[0107] In a further embodiment, the agent according to the invention is therefore selected from the group consisting of acid yellow 1, acid yellow 3, acid yellow 9, Acid Yellow 17, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Yellow 121, Acid Orange 6, Acid Orange 7, Acid Orange 10, Acid Orange 11, Acid Orange 15, Acid Orange 20, Acid Orange 24, Acid Red 14, Acid Red 27, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Red 51, Acid Red 52, Acid Red 73, Acid Red 87, Acid Red 92, Acid Red 95, Acid Red 184, Acid Red 195, Acid Violet 43, Acid Violet 49, Acid Violet 50, Acid Blue 1, Acid Blue 3, Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 104, Acid Blue 9, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 74, Acid Blue 80, Acid Green 3, Acid Green 5, Acid and at least one direct dye (a2) selected from the group consisting of D&C Green 9, Acid Green 22, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 50, Acid Black 1, Acid Black 52, Food Yellow 8, Food Blue 5, D&C Yellow 8, D&C Green 5, D&C Orange 10, D&C Orange 11, D&C Red 21, D&C Red 27, D&C Red 33, D&C Violet 2, and / or D&C Brown 1.
[0108] The direct action dye(s) can be used in various amounts in the agent of the present invention, depending on the desired color strength. Satisfactory results have been obtained when the agent contains one or more direct dyes (a2) in a total amount of 0.01-10.0% by weight, preferably 0.1-8.0% by weight, more preferably 0.2-6.0% by weight, most preferably 0.5-4.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the agent.
[0109] Furthermore, the agents according to the invention may contain as colouring compound (a2) at least one photochromic or thermochromic dye.
[0110] Photochromic dyes are dyes with a reversible change of hue in response to irradiation with UV light (sunlight or black light). In this process, the UV light changes the chemical structure of the dyes and therefore their absorption behavior (photochromism).
[0111] Thermochromic dyes are dyes with a reversible change of hue in response to a change in temperature. In this process, the change in temperature changes the chemical structure of the dyes and therefore their absorption behavior (thermochromism).
[0112] The agent of the present invention may contain one or more photochromic dyes (a2) in a total amount of 0.01 to 10.0% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 8.0% by weight, more preferably 0.2 to 6.0% by weight, and most preferably 0.5 to 4.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0113] [Organic carbonate ester (a3)] As a third essential component (a3), the agent according to the invention contains at least one organic carbonate.
[0114] Organic carbonates are physically unstable esters of carbonic acid. Their general structure is R'-OC(=O)-O-R'', where R' and R'' are either hydrogen or organic groups, and at least one of R' and R'' is an organic group.
[0115] If the groups R' and R'' are the same, the carbonate (a3) is symmetrical, if R' is not the same as R'', the carbonate (a3) is asymmetrical. If R' and R'' belong to the same organic structural unit, a cyclic carbonate exists.
[0116] When the carbonic acid functionality is unfunctionalized on one side, ie, R' or R'' represents hydrogen, a carbonic acid half ester exists.
[0117] When both R' and R'' represent organic groups, a carbonate diester exists.
[0118] The organic carbonates of the general formula (KSE-I) have shown themselves to be particularly suitable for achieving the object of the present invention: [ka] [where: R1 and R2, together with the two oxygen atoms to which they are attached and the carbonyl group, form a C 1- C 12 Alkyl group, hydroxy-C 1- C6 alkyl group, hydroxyl group, or C 1- R1 and R2 are independently selected from the group consisting of C, C-, C-alkoxy, C-alkyl ... 1- C 12 Alkyl group, hydroxy-C 1- C 12 represents an alkyl group, or an optionally substituted aryl group.
[0119] C 1- C 12 Examples of alkyl groups include methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, n-pentyl, n-hexyl, n-octyl, and n-dodecyl groups. 1- Examples of C6 alkyl groups can include hydroxymethyl groups and 2-(hydroxyethyl groups) and 3-(hydroxypropyl groups).
[0120] C 1- Examples of C6 alkoxy groups include methoxy and ethoxy groups. Suitable aryl groups include phenyl and naphthyl groups.
[0121] In relation to a further very particularly preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains: (a3) at least one organic carbonate of general formula (KSE-I) [ka] [where: R1 and R2, together with the two oxygen atoms to which they are attached and the carbonyl group, form a C 1- C 12 Alkyl group, hydroxy-C 1- C6 alkyl group, hydroxyl group, or C 1- R1 and R2 are independently selected from the group consisting of C, C-, C-alkoxy, C-alkyl ... 1- C 12 Alkyl group, hydroxy-C 1- C 12 represents an alkyl group, or an optionally substituted aryl group.
[0122] According to the invention, it is particularly suitable to use cyclic carbonates. A very particularly preferred cyclic ester of carbonic acid is called 1,3-dioxolan-2-one and can be described by the following structure: [ka]
[0123] In the basic 1,3-dioxolan-2-one, two H atoms are bonded to positions 4 and 5, respectively. In the context of the present invention, it is also possible and preferred to use derivatives of said basic structure, i.e. 1,3-dioxolan-2-ones substituted in positions 4 or 4 and 5. Here, there is no limit to the diversity of the structure, so that mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-substituted 1,3-dioxolan-2-ones are suitable for use in the context of the present invention.
[0124] A particularly strong increase in color intensity was observed when dyeing keratinous materials with an agent according to the invention containing at least one cyclic organic carbonate (a3), very preferably this cyclic organic carbonate being a substance selected from the group of substituted or unsubstituted 1,3-dioxolan-2-ones.
[0125] In relation to a further very particularly preferred embodiment, the agent of the invention comprises (a3) at least one cyclic organic carbonate, preferably selected from the group of substituted or unsubstituted 1,3-dioxolan-2-ones; The present invention is characterized in that it contains:
[0126] In addition to unsubstituted 1,3-dioxolan-2-ones, particularly preferred are derivatives monosubstituted at the 4-position of the formula: [ka] [wherein R is a substituted or unsubstituted alkyl, alkenyl, or alkylaryl group.] Preferred groups R are the methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, iso-propyl and hydroxymethyl and hydroxyethyl groups.
[0127] Most preferably, R represents a methyl group, an ethyl group, an n-propyl group, an iso-propyl group, a hydroxymethyl group, or a hydroxyethyl group.
[0128] In relation to a further very particularly preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains: (a3) at least one organic carbonate of general formula (KSE-II): [ka] [where: R3 represents a methyl group, an ethyl group, an n-propyl group, an iso-propyl group, a hydroxymethyl group, or a hydroxyethyl group.
[0129] Particularly preferred 1,3-dioxolan-2-ones are selected from the group of ethylene carbonate (R=H), propylene carbonate (R=CH3) and glycerol carbonate (R=CH2OH).
[0130] Ethylene carbonate is a colorless, crystalline compound that melts at 39 °C and boils at 238 °C. Readily soluble in water, alcohols and organic solvents, ethylene carbonate can be produced in a large-scale synthesis from ethylene oxide and liquid CO2.
[0131] Propylene carbonate is 1.2057gcm -3 It is a water-light, mobile liquid with a density of 1000 nm, a melting point of -49 °C, and a boiling point of 242 °C. Propylene carbonate can also be obtained on a large scale by reacting propylene oxide with CO2 at 200 °C and 80 bar. Glycerol carbonate can be obtained by transesterification of ethylene carbonate or dimethyl carbonate with glycerol, producing ethylene glycol or methanol as by-products. Another synthetic route starts with glycidol (2,3-epoxy-1-propanol), which reacts with CO2 under pressure in the presence of a catalyst to form glycerol carbonate.
[0132] Glycerol carbonate is 1.398 gcm -3 It is a clear, mobile liquid with a density of 1.0 and boils at 125-130°C (0.15 mbar).
[0133] Beneficial effects were also obtained when non-cyclic carbonates (a3) were used in the agents according to the invention.
[0134] Both monoesters and diesters of carbonic acid are suitable for use in the agents according to the invention. Suitable agents according to the invention have the formula (KSE-III): [ka] [In the formula, R4 is a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally substituted C 1- C8 alkyl group, or a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group, or a substituted or unsubstituted heterocycle] The present invention contains at least one monoester of carbonic acid.
[0135] In formula (KE-III), R4 is preferably a substituted or unsubstituted, linear or branched alkyl, alkenyl or alkynyl group, with hydroxy, amino, nitro, sulfonic acid or halogen being preferred substituents. Other preferred radicals R are phenyl and benzyl radicals as well as further substituted representatives. Particularly preferred is R being C 1-6 Represents an alkyl group. 1- Examples of C6 alkyl groups are methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, iso-butyl, tert-butyl, pentyl, iso-pentyl and hexyl groups.
[0136] Suitable agents according to the invention are characterized in that the radical R1 in formula (I) is selected from the group consisting of methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, iso-propyl, n-butyl, iso-butyl, tert-butyl and hydroxymethyl and hydroxyethyl radicals.
[0137] The acidic H-atoms of the carbonic acid monoesters may be present in neutralized form, i.e. according to the invention it is also possible to use salts of the carbonic acid monoesters.Preference is given here to agents according to the invention which contain carbonic acid monoesters or carbonic acid monoamides in fully or partially neutralized form, preferably in the form of their alkali metal, ammonium, alkaline earth metal or aluminum salts or in the form of their sodium salts.
[0138] Carbonic acid diesters (a3) can be used as further suitable esters of carbonic acid in the agents according to the invention. Thus, preferred agents according to the invention have the formula (KSE-IV): [ka] wherein R5 and R6 are each independently a saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched or cyclic, substituted or unsubstituted C1-C8 hydrocarbon group, or a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group, or a substituted or unsubstituted heterocycle. It contains at least one carbonate diester.
[0139] In formula (KE-IV), R5 and R6 each independently preferably represent a substituted or unsubstituted, linear or branched alkyl, alkenyl or alkynyl group, with hydroxy, amino, nitro, sulfonic acid or halogen being preferred suitable substituents. Further preferred groups R or R' are phenyl and benzyl groups, as well as further substituted representatives. Particularly preferred are R or R', C 1-6 Represents an alkyl group. 1- Examples of C6 alkyl groups are methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, iso-butyl, tert-butyl, pentyl, iso-pentyl, and hexyl groups.
[0140] Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that the radicals R5 and R6 in formula (KE-IV) are each independently selected from the group consisting of methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, iso-propyl, n-butyl, iso-butyl, tert-butyl, and hydroxymethyl and hydroxyethyl radicals.
[0141] Particularly preferred organic carbonates (a3) may be selected from the group consisting of 4-methyl-1,3-dioxolane, 4-hydroxymethyl-1-3-dioxolane, di(n-octyl carbonate), di(n-hexyl carbonate), di(n-propyl carbonate), dimethyl carbonate, diethyl carbonate, and diphenyl carbonate.
[0142] In the context of a further very particularly preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention is characterized in that: (a3) At least one organic carbonate ester selected from the group consisting of 4-methyl-1,3-dioxolane, 4-hydroxymethyl-1-3-dioxolane, di(n-octyl carbonate), di(n-hexyl carbonate), di(n-propyl carbonate), dimethyl carbonate, diethyl carbonate, and diphenyl carbonate.
[0143] 4-Methyl-1,3-dioxolane (a3) is most preferred.
[0144] Organic carbonates can also be purchased commercially from common suppliers of fine chemicals such as, for example, Aldrich or Fluka.
[0145] The organic carbonate (a3) is particularly preferably present in the agent according to the invention in an amount within a specific range.
[0146] Particularly satisfactory results have been obtained when the agent according to the invention contains one or more organic carbonates (a3) in a total amount of 0.1 to 20.0% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 15.0% by weight, more preferably 1.0 to 10.0% by weight, most preferably 4.0 to 8.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the agent.
[0147] In a further preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains one or more organic carbonates (a3) in a total amount of 0.1 to 20.0% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 15.0% by weight, more preferably 1.0 to 10.0% by weight and very preferably 4.0 to 8.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the agent.
[0148] [Fat components in the preparation] As a further optional ingredient, the agent according to the invention may additionally comprise at least one fatty ingredient.
[0149] It has been found that the use of at least one fatty component ensures that the agent is in the form of an emulsion with optimal viscosity, which also provides the benefit of improved color intensity.
[0150] The fatty components are hydrophobic substances that can form emulsions in the presence of water, forming micellar systems.
[0151] For the purposes of the present invention, "fatty component" means an organic compound having a solubility in water of less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, at room temperature (22°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). The definition of fatty component explicitly covers only uncharged (i.e. non-ionic) compounds. The fatty component has at least one saturated or unsaturated alkyl group with at least 12 C atoms. The molecular weight of the fatty component is at most 5000 g / mol, preferably at most 2500 g / mol, particularly preferably at most 1000 g / mol. The fatty component is neither an ethoxylated nor a polyoxyalkylated nor a polyglycerated compound.
[0152] Very preferably, the fatty component (a4) contained in the composition of the invention is 12- C 24 Fatty alcohol, C 12- C 24 Fatty acid triglyceride, C 12- C 24 Fatty acid monoglycerides, C 12- C 24 It is selected from the group consisting of fatty acid diglycerides and / or hydrocarbons.
[0153] In accordance with a further preferred embodiment, the agent of the present invention comprises 12- C 24 Fatty alcohol, C 12- C 24 Fatty acid triglyceride, C 12- C 24 Fatty acid monoglycerides, C 12- C 24 It is characterized by containing one or more fatty components selected from the group consisting of fatty acid diglycerides and / or hydrocarbons.
[0154] In this context, very particularly preferred fat components are 12- C 24 Fatty alcohol, C 12- C 24 Fatty acid triglyceride, C 12- C 24 Fatty acid monoglycerides, C 12- C 24 It is understood that fatty acids are components selected from the group of fatty acid diglycerides and / or hydrocarbons. For the purposes of the present invention, only non-ionic substances are explicitly considered as fatty components. Charged compounds such as fatty acids and their salts are not considered to be fatty components.
[0155] C 12- C 24 The fatty alcohol may be a saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, linear or branched fatty alcohol having 12 to 24 C atoms.
[0156] Preferred linear, saturated C 12- C 24 Examples of fatty alcohols are dodecan-1-ol (dodecyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol), tetradecan-1-ol (tetradecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol), hexadecan-1-ol (hexadecyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol), octadecane-1-ol (octadecyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol), arachyl alcohol (eicosan-1-ol), henicosyl alcohol (henicosan-1-ol) and / or behenyl alcohol (docosan-1-ol).
[0157] Preferred linear, unsaturated fatty alcohols are (9Z)-octadec-9-en-1-ol (oleyl alcohol), (9E)-octadec-9-en-1-ol (elaidyl alcohol), (9Z,12Z)-octadeca-9,12-dien-1-ol (linoleyl alcohol), (9Z,12Z,15Z)-octadeca-9,12,15-trien-1-ol (linolenoyl alcohol), gadoleyl alcohol ((9Z)-eicosa-9-en-1-ol), arachidonic acid alcohol ((5Z,8Z,11Z,14Z)-eicosa-5,8,11,14-tetraen-1-ol), erucyl alcohol ((13Z)-docos-13-en-1-ol) and / or brassidyl alcohol ((13E)-docose-1-ol).
[0158] Preferred examples of branched fatty alcohols are 2-octyl-dodecanol, 2-hexyl-dodecanol and / or 2-butyl-dodecanol.
[0159] In accordance with a further preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention preferably comprises at least one C 12- C 24 Characterized in that it contains fatty alcohols: Dodecane-1-ol (dodecyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol), Tetradecan-1-ol (tetradecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol), Hexadecan-1-ol (hexadecyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol), Octadecan-1-ol (octadecyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol), Arachyl alcohol (eicosan-1-ol), Henicosyl alcohol (henicosan-1-ol), Behenyl alcohol (docosan-1-ol), (9Z)-Octadec-9-en-1-ol (oleyl alcohol), (9E)-Octadec-9-en-1-ol (elaidyl alcohol), (9Z,12Z)-Octadeca-9,12-dien-1-ol (linoleyl alcohol), (9Z,12Z,15Z)-Octadeca-9,12,15-trien-1-ol (linolenoyl alcohol), Gadoleyl alcohol ((9Z)-eicos-9-en-1-ol), Arachidonic acid alcohol ((5Z,8Z,11Z,14Z)-eicosa-5,8,11,14-tetraen-1-ol), Erucyl alcohol ((13Z)-docos-13-en-1-ol), Brassidyl alcohol ((13E)-docosen-1-ol), 2-octyl-dodecanol, 2-Hexyldodecanol and / or 2-Butyl-dodecanol.
[0160] One or more C's 12- C 24 It has been found that it is highly preferred to use fatty alcohols in quite specific ranges of amounts.
[0161] The agent contains one or more C 12- C 24 It is particularly preferred if the fatty alcohol is contained in a total amount of 2.0 to 50.0 wt.-%, preferably 3.0 to 30.0 wt.-%, more preferably 4.0 to 20.0 wt.-%, even more preferably 5.0 to 15.0 wt.-%, and most preferably 5.0 to 10.0 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0162] Further, as a suitable fat component, the agent may be C 12- C 24 Fatty acid monoglycerides and / or C 12- C 24 At least one C fatty acid diglyceride 12- C 24 For the purposes of this invention, C 12- C 24Fatty acid triglycerides are understood to be triesters of the trihydric alcohol glycerol with three equivalents of fatty acids. Within the triglyceride molecule, both structurally identical and different fatty acids may be included in the formation of esters.
[0163] According to the invention, the fatty acid is a saturated or unsaturated, unbranched or branched, unsubstituted or substituted C 12- C 24 It should be understood as carboxylic acid. Unsaturated fatty acids can be mono- or polyunsaturated. For unsaturated fatty acids, the CC double bond can have a cis or trans configuration.
[0164] Particularly suitable are fatty acid triglycerides in which at least one ester group is formed from glycerol and a fatty acid selected from: Dodecanoic acid (lauric acid), tetradecanoic acid (myristic acid), hexadecanoic acid (palmitic acid), tetracosanoic acid (lignoceric acid), octadecanoic acid (stearic acid), eicosanoic acid (arachidic acid), docosanoic acid (behenic acid), petroselinic acid [(Z)-6-octadecenoic acid], palmitoleic acid [(9Z)-hexadec-9-enoic acid], oleic acid [(9Z)-octadec-9-enoic acid], elaidic acid [(9E)-octadec-9-enoic acid], erucic acid [ (13Z)-docosa-13-enoic acid], linoleic acid [(9Z,12Z)-octadeca-9,12-dienoic acid, linolenic acid [(9Z,12Z,15Z)-octadeca-9,12,15-trienoic acid, eleostearic acid [(9Z,11E,13E)-octadeca-9,11,3-trienoic acid], arachidonic acid [(5Z,8Z,11Z,14Z)-icosa-5,8,11,14-tetraenoic acid], and / or nervonic acid [(15Z)-tetracos-15-enoic acid].
[0165] The fatty acid triglycerides may be of natural origin: fatty acid triglycerides derived from soybean oil, peanut oil, olive oil, sunflower oil, macadamia nut oil, moringa oil, apricot kernel oil, marula oil and / or optionally hardened castor oil or mixtures thereof are particularly suitable for use in the products according to the invention.
[0166] C 12- C 24 Fatty acid monoglycerides are understood to be monoesters of the trihydric alcohol glycerol with one equivalent of a fatty acid. Either the central hydroxyl group of the glycerol or the terminal hydroxyl group of the glycerol may be esterified with the fatty acid.
[0167] C, in which the hydroxyl group of glycerol is esterified with a fatty acid 12- C 24 Fatty acid monoglycerides are particularly suitable, such as dodecanoic acid (lauric acid), tetradecanoic acid (myristic acid), hexadecanoic acid (palmitic acid), tetracosanoic acid (lignoceric acid), octadecanoic acid (stearic acid), eicosanoic acid (arachidic acid), docosanoic acid (behenic acid), petroselinic acid [(Z)-6-octadecenoic acid], palmitoleic acid [(9Z)-hexadec-9-enoic acid], oleic acid [(9Z)-octadec-9-enoic acid], elaidic acid [(9E)-octadeca- 9-enoic acid], erucic acid [(13Z)-docosa-13-enoic acid], linoleic acid [(9Z,12Z)-octadeca-9,12-dienoic acid, linolenic acid [(9Z,12Z,15Z)-octadeca-9,12,15-trienoic acid, eleostearic acid [(9Z,11E,13E)-octadeca-9,11,3-trienoic acid], arachidonic acid [(5Z,8Z,11Z,14Z)-icosa-5,8,11,14-tetraenoic acid] or nervonic acid [(15Z)-tetracos-15-enoic acid].
[0168] C 12- C 24Fatty acid diglycerides are diesters of the trihydric alcohol glycerol with two equivalents of fatty acid. Either the central and one terminal hydroxyl groups of glycerol can be esterified with two equivalents of fatty acid, or both terminal hydroxyl groups of glycerol are esterified with one fatty acid each. Glycerol can be esterified with two structurally identical fatty acids or two different fatty acids.
[0169] At least one ester group is selected from the group consisting of glycerol and dodecanoic acid (lauric acid), tetradecanoic acid (myristic acid), hexadecanoic acid (palmitic acid), tetracosanoic acid (lignoceric acid), octadecanoic acid (stearic acid), eicosanoic acid (arachidic acid), docosanoic acid (behenic acid), petroselinic acid [(Z)-6-octadecenoic acid], palmitoleic acid [(9Z)-hexadec-9-enoic acid], oleic acid [(9Z)-octadec-9-enoic acid], elaidic acid [(9E)-octadec-9-enoic acid], erucic acid [(13Z)- Particularly suitable are fatty acid triglycerides formed from fatty acids selected from among docosa-13-enoic acid, linoleic acid [(9Z,12Z)-octadeca-9,12-dienoic acid, linolenic acid [(9Z,12Z,15Z)-octadeca-9,12,15-trienoic acid, eleostearic acid [(9Z,11E,13E)-octadeca-9,11,3-trienoic acid], arachidonic acid [(5Z,8Z,11Z,14Z)-icosa-5,8,11,14-tetraenoic acid] and / or nervonic acid [(15Z)-tetracos-15-enoic acid].
[0170] The ingredients are glycerol, dodecanoic acid (lauric acid), tetradecanoic acid (myristic acid), hexadecanoic acid (palmitic acid), tetracosanoic acid (lignoceric acid), octadecanoic acid (stearic acid), eicosanoic acid (arachidic acid), docosanoic acid (behenic acid), petroselinic acid [(Z)-6-octadecenoic acid], palmitoleic acid [(9Z)-hexadec-9-enoic acid], oleic acid [(9Z)-octadec-9-enoic acid], elaidic acid [(9E)-octadec-9-enoic acid], erucic acid [(13Z)-docosa-13-ene acid], and glycerin. at least one C monoester selected from the group consisting of linoleic acid [(9Z,12Z)-octadeca-9,12-dienoic acid, linolenic acid [(9Z,12Z,15Z)-octadeca-9,12,15-trienoic acid, eleostearic acid [(9Z,11E,13E)-octadeca-9,11,3-trienoic acid], arachidonic acid [(5Z,8Z,11Z,14Z)-icosa-5,8,11,14-tetraenoic acid] and / or nervonic acid [(15Z)-tetracos-15-enoic acid] with one equivalent of a fatty acid; 12- C 24 Particularly good results were obtained when fatty acid monoglycerides were included.
[0171] In a further embodiment, the agent according to the invention comprises at least one C monoester selected from monoesters of glycerol and one equivalent of a fatty acid selected from the group consisting of dodecanoic acid, tetradecanoic acid, hexadecanoic acid, tetracosanoic acid, octadecanoic acid, eicosanoic acid and / or docosanoic acid. 12- C 24 It is characterized by containing fatty acid monoglycerides.
[0172] One or more C's 12- C 24 Fatty acid monoglycerides, C 12- C 24 - Fatty acid diglycerides and / or C 12- C 24 It has been found that it is preferable to use fatty acid triglycerides in the formulation in amounts within certain ranges.
[0173] In the solution of the problem according to the invention, the agent is one or more C 12- C 24 Fatty acid monoglycerides, C 12- C 24 Fatty acid diglycerides and / or C 12- C 24 It has been found to be advantageous when fatty acid triglycerides are contained in a total amount of 0.1 to 20.0% by weight, preferably 0.3 to 15.0% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 10.0% by weight, and most preferably 0.8 to 5.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the agent.
[0174] Furthermore, as very particularly preferred fatty component, the agent according to the invention may also comprise at least one hydrocarbon.
[0175] Hydrocarbons are compounds consisting exclusively of carbon and hydrogen atoms having 8 to 80 C atoms. In this context, aliphatic hydrocarbons are particularly preferred, such as mineral oil, liquid paraffin oil (for example Paraffinium Liquidum or Paraffinum Perliquidum), isoparaffin oil, semisolid paraffin oil, paraffin wax, hard paraffin (paraffin wax), petrolatum and polydecene.
[0176] In this regard, liquid paraffin oil (Paraffinium Liquidum and Paraffinum Perliquidum) has been found to be particularly suitable. Paraffinium Liquidum, also known as white oil, is the preferred hydrocarbon. Paraffinium Liquidum is a mixture of refined saturated aliphatic hydrocarbons consisting of hydrocarbon chains with a C-chain distribution of 25 to 35 C atoms.
[0177] Particularly satisfactory results have been obtained when the agent contains at least one hydrocarbon selected from the group consisting of mineral oil, liquid kerosene oil, isoparaffin oil, semisolid kerosene oil, kerosene wax, hard kerosene (paraffin wax), petrolatum and polydecene.
[0178] In one very particularly preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one fatty component selected from the group of the hydrocarbons.
[0179] With regard to the solution of the problem according to the invention, it has proven to be quite particularly preferred if the agent contains one or more hydrocarbons in a total amount of 0.5 to 20.0% by weight, preferably 0.7 to 10.0% by weight, more preferably 0.9 to 5.0% by weight and very particularly preferably 1.0 to 4.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the agent.
[0180] In one very particularly preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains one or more hydrocarbons in a total amount of 0.5 to 20.0% by weight, preferably 0.7 to 10.0% by weight, more preferably 0.9 to 5.0% by weight and very particularly preferably 1.0 to 4.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the agent.
[0181] [Surfactant in the preparation] As further optional components, the agent according to the present invention may further comprise at least one surfactant.In order to further optimize the formation of emulsion, it has been found to be particularly preferable to continue to use at least one non-ionic surfactant in the agent.
[0182] Therefore, very preferably, the agent according to the invention further contains at least one surfactant.
[0183] The term surfactant (T) denotes surface-active substances that can form adsorbed layers on surfaces and interfaces or aggregate in the bulk phase to form micellar colloids or lyotropic mesophases. A distinction is made between anionic surfactants, which consist of a hydrophobic group and a negatively charged hydrophilic head group, amphoteric surfactants, which carry both a negative charge and a countervailing positive charge, cationic surfactants, which have a positively charged hydrophilic group in addition to the hydrophobic residue, and nonionic surfactants, which are uncharged but have a strong dipole moment and are strongly hydrated in aqueous solution.
[0184] The non-ionic surfactants contain, as hydrophilic groups, for example, polyol groups, polyalkylene glycol ether groups or a combination of polyol groups and polyglycol ether groups. Such links include: addition products of 2 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide onto linear and branched fatty alcohols, fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers or fatty alcohol polypropylene glycol ethers or mixed fatty alcohol polyethers having 6 to 30 C atoms, addition products of 2 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide onto linear and branched fatty acids having 6 to 30 C atoms, onto fatty acid polyglycol ethers or fatty acid polypropylene glycol ethers or onto mixed fatty acid polyethers, addition products of 2 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide onto linear and branched alkylphenols, alkylphenol polyglycol ethers or alkylpolypropylene glycol ethers or mixed alkylphenol polyethers having 8 to 15 C atoms in the alkyl group, Addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide onto linear and branched fatty alcohols containing 8 to 30 C atoms, onto fatty acids containing 8 to 30 C atoms, onto alkylphenols containing 8 to 15 C atoms in the alkyl group, terminated by a methyl group or a C2-C6 alkyl group, such as the grades available under the trade names Dehydol® LS, Dehydol® LT (Cognis). C of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide to glycerol 12 -C 30 fatty acid mono- and diesters, Addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide onto castor oil and onto hydrogenated castor oil, Polyol fatty acid esters, for example the commercial products Hydagen® HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol® grades (Cognis), Alkoxylated triglycerides, ·Formula (Tnio-1): [ka] [In the formula, R 1 CO is a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl group having 6 to 22 carbon atoms; R 2 is hydrogen or methyl, and R 3 is a straight or branched alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and w is a number from 1 to 20. alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters of Amine oxides, hydroxy mixed ethers, as described in the examples of DE-OS 19738866, · addition products of ethylene oxide onto sorbitan fatty acid esters, such as sorbitan fatty acid esters and polysorbates, Sugar fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide onto sugar fatty acid esters, Addition products of ethylene oxide to fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines, Formula (E4-II): [ka] [In the formula, R 4 is an alkyl or alkenyl group containing 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G is a sugar group containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms, and p is a number from 1 to 10. Sugar tensides of the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglucoside type according to. They can be obtained by the relevant methods of preparative organic chemistry. The alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides can be derived from aldoses or ketoses having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably glucose. Thus, the preferred alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides. The index number p in the general formula (Tnio-2) indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), i.e. the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides, and represents a number between 1 and 10. p must always be an integer in the individual molecule and can take the value p=1-6, but the value p of a certain alkyl oligoglycoside is an analytically determined arithmetic quantity, which usually represents a fraction. Preferably, alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are used that have an average degree of oligomerization p between 1.1 and 3.0. From the viewpoint of application technology, alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides with a degree of oligomerization of less than 1.7 and between 1.2 and 1.4 are preferred. 4 can be derived from primary alcohols containing 4 to 11, preferably 8 to 10, carbon atoms. Typical examples include butanol, caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol and undecylic alcohol, as well as technical mixtures thereof, such as those obtained in the hydrogenation of technical fatty acid methyl esters or in the course of hydrogenation of aldehydes from the oxo synthesis of Laurent. Preference is given to technical C8-C 18 It is obtained as an initial step in the distillative separation of palm fatty alcohol and has a C content of less than 6% by weight. 12 Can be contaminated with alcohol, chain length C8-C 10 Alkyl oligoglucosides (DP=1-3) and industrial C9 / 11These are alkyl oligoglucosides based on oxoalcohols (DP=1-3). The alkyl or alkenyl group R15 can also be derived from primary alcohols having 12 to 22, preferably 12 to 14, carbon atoms. Typical examples include lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadolinyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol and the technical mixtures thereof obtained as described above. Cured C with a DP of 1-3 12 / 14 Palm alcohol based alkyl oligoglucosides are preferred. Sugar surfactants of the fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamide type, non-ionic surfactants of the formula (Tnio-3), [ka] In the formula, R 5 CO is an aliphatic acyl group containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms, and R 6 is hydrogen, an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and [Z] is a linear or branched polyhydroxyalkyl group containing 3 to 12 carbon atoms and 3 to 10 hydroxyl groups. Fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides are known substances which are usually obtained by reductive amination of reducing sugars with ammonia, alkylamines or alkanolamines, followed by acylation with fatty acids, fatty acid alkyl esters or fatty acid chlorides. Fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides are preferably derived from reducing sugars having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, in particular from glucose. Thus, preferred fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides are of the formula (Tnio-4): [ka] The fatty acid N-alkyl glucamides are represented by the formula: Preferably, the glucamide of formula (Tnio-4) is used as fatty acid-N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamide, where R8 represents hydrogen or an alkyl group, R 7 CO represents the acyl residue of caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid or erucic acid or technical mixtures thereof. Particularly preferred are fatty acid N-alkylglucamides of formula (Tnio-4), obtained by reductive amination of glucose with methylamine and subsequent acylation with lauric acid or C12 / 14 coconut fatty acid or the corresponding derivatives. Furthermore, polyhydroxyalkylamides can also be derived from maltose and palatinose.
[0185] The sugar surfactant may preferably be present in the agent according to the invention in an amount of 0.1 to 20% by weight, based on the total agent, preferably in an amount of 0.5 to 15% by weight, particularly preferably in an amount of 0.5 to 7.5% by weight.
[0186] Other typical examples of non-ionic surfactants are fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers, mixed ethers or mixed formals, protein hydrolysates (especially wheat-based vegetable products) and polysorbates.
[0187] Alkylene oxide addition products to saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids, with 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid, respectively, as well as sugar surfactants have proven to be preferred nonionic surfactants. Preparations with excellent properties are also obtained when containing fatty acid esters of ethoxylated glycerol as nonionic surfactants.
[0188] These bonds are distinguished by the following parameters: The alkyl group R contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and can be either linear or branched. Primary linear and 2-methyl-branched aliphatic groups are preferred. Such alkyl groups are, for example, 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cytyl and 1-stearyl. 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl are especially preferred. If so-called "oxo alcohols" are used as starting materials, compounds with an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain predominate.
[0189] The compounds with alkyl groups used as surfactants can each be homogeneous substances, but in the preparation of these substances it is usually preferred to start from natural vegetable or animal raw materials so that mixtures of substances with different alkyl chain lengths are obtained depending on the respective raw materials.
[0190] For surfactants that are the addition products of ethylene and / or propylene oxide to fatty alcohols or derivatives of these addition products, products with "normal" homolog distribution and products with narrow homolog distribution can be used. By "normal" homolog distribution, it is meant the mixture of homologs obtained in the reaction of fatty alcohols with alkylene oxides using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates as catalysts. On the other hand, when using, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alcoholates as catalysts, narrowed homolog distribution is obtained. In some cases, it may be preferable to use products with narrow homolog distribution.
[0191] Particularly satisfactory results have been obtained if the agent according to the invention contains at least one ethoxylated fatty alcohol having a degree of ethoxylation of 10-40.
[0192] In a further very particularly preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention has the formula (TI): [ka] [In the formula, Rb is a saturated or unsaturated, unbranched or branched C 8- C 24 Alkyl groups, preferably saturated, unbranched C 16- C 18 represents an alkyl group, m is an integer from 10 to 40, preferably an integer from 20 to 35, and particularly preferably the number 30. The composition is characterized by comprising at least one nonionic surfactant, preferably selected from the nonionic surfactants listed above.
[0193] A particularly well-suited nonionic surfactant of this type is Ceteareth-30. Ceteareth-30 is a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, each ethoxylated with 30 units of ethylene oxide. The mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol is also called cetearyl alcohol. Ceteareth-30 has the CAS number 68439-49-6 and can be purchased, for example, from BASF under the trade name Eumulgin B3.
[0194] Nonionic surfactants, particularly nonionic surfactants of formula (TI), are preferably used in the agent (b) in an appropriate amount range.Accordingly, based on the total weight of agent (b), agent (b) may contain one or more nonionic surfactants in a total amount of 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.3 to 5% by weight, most preferably 0.4 to 2.5% by weight.
[0195] [Moisture content in the preparation] The above-mentioned agents are ready-to-use agents that can be applied to keratinous materials. The ready-to-use agents preferably have a high water content. It has been found that agents containing 50.0 to 98.0% by weight, preferably 60.0 to 90.0% by weight, more preferably 70.0 to 90.0% by weight, and most preferably 75.0 to 90.0% by weight of water, based on the total weight of the agent, are particularly suitable.
[0196] In a further clearly very particularly preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains 50.0 to 98.0% by weight, preferably 60.0 to 90.0% by weight, even more preferably 70.0 to 90.0% by weight and very particularly preferably 75.0 to 90.0% by weight of water, based on the total weight of the agent.
[0197] [Other optional ingredients in the formulation] In addition to the essential components (a1) to (a3) of the present invention already described above, the agent of the present invention may also contain further optional components.
[0198] For example, the agent may contain a film-forming polymer.The film-forming polymer may be selected from the group consisting of, for example, polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymer, vinylpyrrolidone / styrene copolymer, vinylpyrrolidone / ethylene copolymer, vinylpyrrolidone / propylene copolymer, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl caprolactam copolymer, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl formamide copolymer, and / or vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl alcohol copolymer, and expressly very particularly preferred is polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP).
[0199] Further suitable film-forming polymers may be selected from the group of copolymers of acrylic acid, copolymers of methacrylic acid, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid esters, homopolymers or copolymers of methacrylic acid esters, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid amides, homopolymers or copolymers of methacrylic acid amides, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, copolymers of vinyl alcohol, copolymers of vinyl acetate, homopolymers or copolymers of ethylene, homopolymers or copolymers of propylene, homopolymers or copolymers of styrene, polyurethanes, polyesters, and / or polyamides.
[0200] Film-forming polymers selected from the group of synthetic polymers, polymers obtained by free-radical polymerization or natural polymers have proven to be well suitable.
[0201] Other particularly well suited film-forming polymers are homopolymers or copolymers of olefins such as cycloolefins, butadiene, isoprene or styrene, vinyl ethers, vinyl amides, at least one C 1- C 20 It may be selected from esters or amides of (meth)acrylic acid having an alkyl group, an aryl group, or a C2-C10 hydroxyalkyl group.
[0202] Other film-forming polymers may be selected from isooctyl (meth)acrylate; isononyl (meth)acrylate; 2-ethylhexyl (meth)acrylate; lauryl (meth)acrylate; isopentyl (meth)acrylate; n-butyl (meth)acrylate; isobutyl (meth)acrylate; ethyl (meth)acrylate; methyl (meth)acrylate; tert-butyl (meth)acrylate; stearyl (meth)acrylate; hydroxyethyl (meth)acrylate; 2-hydroxypropyl (meth)acrylate; homo- or copolymers of 3-hydroxypropyl (meth)acrylate; and / or mixtures thereof.
[0203] Further film-forming polymers may be selected from (meth)acrylamides; N-alkyl-(meth)acrylamides, those with C2-C18 alkyl groups, such as N-ethyl-acrylamide, N-tert-butyl-acrylamide, le N-octyl-acrylamide; homo- or copolymers of N-di(C1-C4)alkyl-(meth)acrylamides.
[0204] Other suitable anionic copolymers include those of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, or their C-type copolymers, such as those sold under the INCI Declaration Acrylate Copolymers. 1-Examples of suitable commercially available products include copolymers of C6 alkyl esters. A suitable commercially available product is, for example, Aculyn® 33 from Rohm & Haas. 1- Also preferred are copolymers of C6 alkyl esters and esters of ethylenically unsaturated acids and alkoxylated fatty alcohols. Suitable ethylenically unsaturated acids are in particular acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, and itaconic acid, and suitable alkoxylated fatty alcohols are in particular steareth-20 or ceteth-20.
[0205] Commercially available polymers include Aculyn® 22 (acrylates / steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer), Aculyn® 28 (acrylates / beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer), Structure 2001® (acrylates / steareth-20 itaconate acid copolymer), Structure 3001® (acrylates / ceteth-20 itaconate copolymer), Structure Plus® (acrylates / aminoacrylate C10-30 alkyl PEG-20 itaconate copolymer), Carbopol® 1342, 1382, Ultrez 20, Ultrez 21 (acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer), Synthalen W2000® (acrylates / palmethane-25 acrylate copolymer), or Soltex®, sold by Rohme und Haas. Contains OPT (Acrylates / C12-22 Alkyl Methacrylate Copolymer).
[0206] Homo- and copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam, vinyl-(C1-C6)alkyl-pyrrole, vinyl-oxazole, vinyl-thiazole, vinylpyrimidine, vinylimidazole may be mentioned as suitable polymers based on vinyl monomers.
[0207] Also suitable are copolymers octylacrylamide / acrylates / butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers, such as those commercially available under the tradenames AMPHOMER® or LOVOCRYL® 47 from NATIONAL STARCH, or acrylates / octylacrylamide copolymers commercially available under the tradenames DERMACRYL® LT and DERMACRYL® 79 from NATIONAL STARCH.
[0208] Suitable olefinic polymers include homopolymers and copolymers of ethylene, propylene, butene, isoprene, and butadiene.
[0209] In another version, block copolymers can be used as the film-forming hydrophobic polymers containing at least one block of styrene or a derivative of styrene. These block copolymers can be copolymers that contain one or more other blocks in addition to the styrene block, such as styrene / ethylene, styrene / ethylene / butylene, styrene / butylene, styrene / isoprene, styrene / butadiene, etc. Such polymers are marketed by BASF under the trade name "Luvitol HSB".
[0210] In principle, it has been found that, if both anionic and cationic and / or nonionic polymers can be used in the agent according to the invention, it is particularly preferred to use no further ionic compounds or to use only small amounts.In other words, it has been found that a particularly strong improvement in color intensity can be achieved when the agent is nonionic and therefore does not contain any cationic and anionic polymers or contains only small amounts.For this reason, it has been found that it is particularly preferred that the total content of all anionic polymers contained in the agent is less than 0.1% by weight.Furthermore, it has been found that it is particularly preferred that the total content of all cationic polymers contained in the agent is less than 0.1% by weight.The amount of cationic or anionic polymer is related to the total weight of the agent.
[0211] In another very particularly preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention comprises, based on the total weight of the agent: The total content of all anionic polymers contained in the agent is less than 0.1% by weight; and The total content of all cationic polymers contained in the agent is less than 0.1% by weight. It is characterized by:
[0212] In addition to the above nonionic surfactants, the agent can in principle also contain one or more charged surfactants. The term surfactant refers to surface-active substances. A distinction is made between anionic surfactants, which consist of a hydrophobic group and a negatively charged hydrophilic head group, amphoteric surfactants, which have both a negative charge and a compensating positive charge, cationic surfactants, which have a positively charged hydrophilic group in addition to a hydrophobic group, and nonionic surfactants, which have no charge but have a strong dipole moment and are strongly hydrated in aqueous solution.
[0213] Zwitterionic surfactants contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO (-) -or-SO3 (-) Groups of surface-active compounds. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are N-alkyl-N,N-dimethylammonium-glycinates, such as cocoalkyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, such as cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazolines, each having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, and the so-called betaines, such as cocoacylaminoethyl hydroxyethyl carboxymethyl glycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is a fatty acid amide derivative known under the INCI name cocamidopropyl betaine.
[0214] Amphoteric surfactants are 8- C 24Apart from the alkyl or acyl group, they are surface-active compounds that contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH- or -SO3H group in the molecule and are capable of forming inner salts. Examples of suitable amphoteric surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids, and alkylaminoacetic acids, each having about 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group. Typical examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkylbetaines, alkylamidobetaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines, and sulfobetaines.
[0215] Examples of amphoteric surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocosacylaminoethylaminopropionate, and C 12- C 18 -Acylsarcosine.
[0216] In addition, the agent may contain at least one cationic surfactant. Cationic surfactants are surfactants, i.e., surface-active compounds, each of which has one or more positive charges. Cationic surfactants contain only positive charges. Typically, these surfactants are composed of a hydrophobic portion and a hydrophilic head group, the hydrophobic portion usually consisting of a hydrocarbon backbone (e.g., consisting of one or two linear or branched alkyl chains), and the one or more positive charges are on the hydrophilic head group. Examples of cationic surfactants are: quaternary ammonium compounds which may have, as hydrophobic groups, one or two alkyl chains with a chain length of 8 to 28 C atoms, quaternary phosphonium salts substituted with one or more alkyl chains having a chain length of 8 to 28 C atoms, or Tertiary sulfonium salts It is.
[0217] Furthermore, the cationic charge may be part of a heterocycle in the form of an onium structure (e.g., an imidazolium or pyridinium ring). In addition to the functional unit with a cationic charge, the cationic surfactant may also contain other non-charged functional groups, as is the case for example with esterquats. The cationic surfactants are used in a total amount of 0.1 to 45% by weight, preferably 1 to 30% by weight, most preferably 1 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the respective agent.
[0218] Furthermore, the agent according to the invention may also contain at least one anionic surfactant. Anionic surfactants are surface-active agents that have only an anionic charge (neutralized by the corresponding countercation). Examples of anionic surfactants are fatty acids, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, and ether carboxylic acids with 12-20 C atoms in the alkyl group and up to 16 glycol ether groups in the molecule.
[0219] In principle, it has been found that, if both anionic and cationic and / or nonionic surfactants can be used in the agent according to the invention, it is particularly preferred not to use further ionic compounds or to use them only in small amounts.In other words, it has been found that a particularly strong improvement in color intensity can be achieved when the agent is nonionic and therefore does not contain any cationic and anionic surfactants or contains only small amounts of them.For this reason, it has been found that it is particularly preferred that the total content of all anionic surfactants contained in the agent is less than 0.1% by weight.Furthermore, it has been found that it is particularly preferred that the total content of all cationic surfactants contained in the agent is less than 0.1% by weight.The amount of cationic polymer or anionic surfactant is related to the total weight of the agent.
[0220] In another very particularly preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention comprises, based on the total weight of the agent: The total content of all anionic surfactants contained in the agent is less than 0.1% by weight; and The total content of all cationic surfactants contained in the agent is less than 0.1% by weight. It is characterized by:
[0221] The agent may also contain other active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives (e.g. solvents), structuring agents (such as, for example, glucose, maleic acid, and lactic acid), hair conditioning compounds (such as, for example, phospholipids, e.g. lecithin and cephalin); perfume oils, dimethyl isosorbide, and cyclodextrin; fibre structure improving active ingredients, in particular mono-, di-, and oligosaccharides such as glucose, galactose, fructose, fructose, and lactose; dyes for colouring the product; anti-dandruff active ingredients such as piroctone olamine, zinc omadine, and climazole; amino acids and oligopeptides; animal and / or vegetable based protein hydrolysates and their fatty acid condensation products or optionally in the form of anionic or cationic modified derivatives; vegetable oils; light stabilizers and UV-screeners; panthenol, pantothenic acid, pantolactone, allantoin, pyrrolidinone carboxylic acid and their salts. and bisabolol; polyphenols, especially hydroxycinnamic acids, 6,7-dihydroxycoumarin, hydroxybenzoic acids, catechins, tannins, leucoanthocyanidins, anthocyanidins, flavanones, flavones, and flavonols; ceramides or pseudoceramides; vitamins, provitamins, and vitamin precursors; plant extracts; fats and waxes, such as fatty alcohols, beeswax, montan wax, and kerosene; swelling and penetrating agents, such as glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, guanidine, urea, and primary, secondary, and tertiary phosphates; opacifying agents, such as latex, styrene / PVP, and styrene / acrylamide copolymers; pearlizing agents, such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate, and PEG-3-distearate; and foaming agents, such as propane-butane mixtures, N2O, dimethyl ether, CO2, and air.
[0222] The selection of these other substances is made by the expert according to the properties desired for the agent. Regarding other optional components and the amount of these components used, reference is made explicitly to the relevant manuals known to the expert. The additional active ingredients and auxiliary substances are preferably used in the agent according to the present invention in an amount of 0.0001-25% by weight, in particular 0.0005-15% by weight, respectively, based on the total weight of each agent.
[0223] [pH value of agent] The pH value of the agent according to the invention is preferably adjusted to a neutral to alkaline pH. Most preferably, the agent has an alkaline pH value in the range of 7.0 to 11.5, preferably 8.0 to 11.0, most preferably 8.5 to 10.5. Under basic conditions, the amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1) can be particularly well dissolved or dispersed without protonation.
[0224] Within the scope of further preferred embodiments, the agent according to the invention comprises It is characterized by having a pH of 7.0 to 11.5, preferably 8.0 to 11.0, and particularly preferably 8.5 to 10.5.
[0225] To adjust the desired pH value, the agent may contain at least one alkalizing agent. The pH value for the purposes of the present invention is the pH value measured at a temperature of 22° C.
[0226] As alkalizing agents, the agents may include, for example, ammonia, alkanolamines, and / or basic amino acids.
[0227] The alkanolamines that can be used in the agent of the present invention are preferably C 2-The primary amines having C6 alkyl bases are selected.Preferred alkanolamines are selected from the group formed by 2-aminoethan-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-aminobutan-1-ol, 5-aminopentan-1-ol, 1-aminopropan-2-ol, 1-aminobutan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 3-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 1-amino-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3-aminopropane-1,2-diol, 2-amino-2-methylpropane-1,3-diol.
[0228] Particularly preferred alkanolamines according to the invention are selected from 2-aminoethan-1-ol and / or 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol.A particularly preferred embodiment is therefore characterized in that the agent according to the invention contains an alkanolamine selected from 2-aminoethan-1-ol and / or 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol as alkalizing agent.
[0229] For the purposes of the present invention, amino acids are organic compounds that contain at least one protonatable amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO3H group in their structure. Preferred amino acids are aminocarboxylic acids, in particular α-(alpha)-aminocarboxylic acids and ω-aminocarboxylic acids, with α-aminocarboxylic acids being particularly preferred.
[0230] According to the present invention, a basic amino acid is an amino acid having an isoelectric point pI greater than 7.0.
[0231] Basic α-aminocarboxylic acids contain at least one asymmetric carbon atom. In the context of the present invention, both enantiomers can be used equally as specific compounds or mixtures thereof, in particular as racemates. However, it is particularly advantageous to use the naturally preferred isomeric form, usually in the L configuration.
[0232] The basic amino acid is preferably selected from the group formed by arginine, lysine, ornithine and histidine, particularly preferably arginine and lysine.Accordingly, in another particularly preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention is characterized in that the alkalizing agent is a basic amino acid from the group of arginine, lysine, ornithine and / or histidine.
[0233] Furthermore, the agent may contain other alkalizing agents, in particular inorganic alkalizing agents. The inorganic alkalizing agents that can be used according to the invention are preferably selected from the group formed by sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, sodium phosphate, potassium phosphate, sodium silicate, sodium metasilicate, potassium silicate, sodium carbonate and potassium carbonate.
[0234] Particularly preferred alkalizing agents are ammonia, 2-aminoethan-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-aminobutan-1-ol, 5-aminopentan-1-ol, 1-aminopropan-2-ol, 1-aminobutan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 3-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 1-amino-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3-aminopropane-1,2-diol, 2-amino-2-methylpropane-1,3-diol, arginine, lysine, ornithine, histidine, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, sodium phosphate, potassium phosphate, sodium silicate, sodium metasilicate, potassium silicate, sodium carbonate, and potassium carbonate.
[0235] In another very particularly preferred embodiment, the method according to the invention is characterized in that the agent comprises at least one alkalizing agent selected from the group consisting of ammonia, 2-aminoethan-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-aminobutan-1-ol, 5-aminopentan-1-ol, 1-aminopropan-2-ol, 1-aminobutan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 3-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 1-amino-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3-aminopropane-1,2-diol, 2-amino-2-methylpropane-1,3-diol, arginine, lysine, ornithine, histidine, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, sodium phosphate, potassium phosphate, sodium silicate, sodium metasilicate, potassium silicate, sodium carbonate, and potassium carbonate.
[0236] [How to dye keratin materials] The above-mentioned agents can be suitably used in methods for dyeing keratinous materials, in particular human hair.
[0237] A second subject of the invention is therefore a method for colouring keratinous materials, in particular human hair, comprising the following steps: (1) applying a coloring agent to the keratinous material, said coloring agent being an agent as disclosed in detail in the description of the first subject of the present invention, (2) exposing a coloring agent to the keratinous material; and (3) Rinse off the dye with water.
[0238] In step (1) of the method according to the present invention, the agent of the first invention is applied to a keratinous material, most preferably human hair.
[0239] In step (2) of the method according to the invention, the agent is then allowed to act on the keratinous materials after its application. In this connection, different exposure times are conceivable, for example between 30 seconds and 60 minutes.
[0240] However, the main advantage of the dyeing system according to the invention is that an intense color result can be achieved even after a short exposure time, for this reason it is advantageous if the application mixture remains on the keratinous materials for a relatively short period of time after its application, from 30 seconds to 15 minutes, preferably from 30 seconds to 10 minutes, particularly preferably from 1 to 5 minutes.
[0241] In a further preferred embodiment, the method according to the invention comprises the steps of: (2) exposing the colorant to the keratinous material for a period ranging from 30 seconds to 15 minutes, preferably from 30 seconds to 10 minutes, and most preferably from 1 to 5 minutes. It is characterized by:
[0242] Finally, following action of the application mixture on the keratinous materials, it is rinsed off with water in step (3) of the method.
[0243] Here, in one embodiment, the applied mixture can be rinsed off with water only, i.e. without a post-treatment or shampoo. The use of a post-treatment or conditioner in step (6) is also conceivable in principle.
[0244] However, in order to achieve the object of the present invention and to increase the convenience of use, it has been found to be particularly preferable to rinse off the agent in step (3) with water alone, without the aid of further post-treatment agents, shampoos or conditioners.
[0245] In a further preferred embodiment, the method according to the invention comprises the steps of: (3) Rinse off the dye using water only. It is characterized by:
[0246] With regard to the further preferred embodiments of the method according to the invention, what was said for the agent according to the invention applies, mutatis mutandis. The initial disclosure of this specification includes at least the following aspects. (a1) at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer, and (a2) at least one coloring compound, and (a3) at least one organic carbonate 1. An agent for dyeing keratinous materials, in particular human hair, comprising [2] The agent according to [1], characterized in that it comprises at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1) having at least one secondary amino group. [3] Formula (Si amino): TIFF0007603671000027.tif8079 [In the formula, ALK1 and ALK2 independently express linear or branched C 1- C 20 represents a divalent alkylene group. The agent according to [1] or [2], characterized in that it contains at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1) containing at least one structural unit of: [4] Structural units of formula (Si-I) and formula (Si-II): TIFF0007603671000028.tif87148 The agent according to any one of [1] to [3], characterized in that it contains at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1) comprising: [5] The agent according to any one of [1] to [4], characterized in that it contains one or more amino-functionalized silicone polymers (a1) in a total amount of 0.1 to 8.0% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 5.0% by weight, more preferably 0.3 to 3.0% by weight, very particularly preferably 0.4 to 2.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. [6] The agent according to any one of [1] to [5], characterized in that it contains at least one coloring compound (a2) selected from the group consisting of pigments, direct dyes, photochromic dyes, and thermochromic dyes. [7] The agent according to any one of [1] to [6], characterized in that it contains at least one coloring compound (a2) selected from the group of inorganic pigments, preferably selected from the group of colored metal oxides, metal hydroxides, metal oxide hydrates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, bronze pigments, and / or preferably selected from the group of colored mica or mica-based pigments coated with at least one metal oxide and / or metal oxychloride. [8] Carmine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, sorghum, blue pigments having color index numbers CI42090, CI69800, CI69825, CI73000, CI74100, CI74160, yellow pigments having color index numbers CI11680, CI11710, CI15985, CI19140, CI20040, CI21100, CI21108, CI47000, CI47005, green pigments having color index numbers CI61565, CI61570, CI74260, oranges having color index numbers CI11725, CI15510, CI45370, CI71105 The agent according to any one of [1] to [7], characterized in that it contains at least one coloring compound (a2) selected from the group of organic pigments, preferably selected from the group consisting of pigments, red pigments having the color index numbers CI12085, CI12120, CI12370, CI12420, CI12490, CI14700, CI15525, CI15580, CI15620, CI15630, CI15800, CI15850, CI15865, CI15880, CI17200, CI26100, CI45380, CI45410, CI58000, CI73360, CI73915, and / or CI75470. [9] The agent according to any one of [1] to [8], characterized in that it contains one or more pigments (a2) in a total amount of 0.01 to 10.0% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 5.0% by weight, more preferably 0.2 to 2.5% by weight, very particularly preferably 0.25 to 1.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition (a).
[10] (a3) General formula (KSE-I): TIFF0007603671000029.tif3664 [where: R1 and R2, together with the two oxygen atoms to which they are attached and the carbonyl group, form a C 1- C 12 Alkyl group, hydroxy-C 1- C 6 Alkyl group, hydroxyl group, or C 1- C 6 R1 and R2 are independently selected from the group consisting of C, ... 1- C 12 Alkyl group, hydroxy-C 1- C 12 represents an alkyl group, or an optionally substituted aryl group. At least one organic carbonate ester of The agent according to any one of [1] to [9], comprising:
[11] (a3) At least one cyclic organic carbonate, preferably selected from the group consisting of substituted or unsubstituted 1,3-dioxolan-2-ones. The agent according to any one of [1] to
[10] , comprising:
[12] (a3) General formula (KSE-II): TIFF0007603671000030.tif4547 [where: R3 represents a methyl group, an ethyl group, an n-propyl group, an iso-propyl group, a hydroxymethyl group, or a hydroxyethyl group. At least one organic carbonate ester of The agent according to any one of [1] to
[11] , comprising:
[13] (a3) At least one organic carbonate ester selected from the group consisting of 4-methyl-1,3-dioxolane, 4-hydroxymethyl-1,3-dioxolane, di(n-octyl carbonate), di(n-hexyl carbonate), di(n-propyl carbonate), dimethyl carbonate, diethyl carbonate, and diphenyl carbonate. The agent according to any one of [1] to
[12] ,
[14] The agent according to any one of [1] to
[13] , characterized in that it contains one or more organic carbonates (a3) in a total amount of 0.1 to 20.0 wt.-%, preferably 0.5 to 15.0 wt.-%, more preferably 1.0 to 10.0 wt.-%, and very preferably 4.0 to 8.0 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the agent.
[15] Dodecane-1-ol, tetradecane-1-ol, hexadecane-1-ol, octadecane-1-ol, arachidyl alcohol, hemineicosyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, (9Z)-octadec-9-en-1-ol, (9E)-octadec-9-en-1-ol, (9Z,12Z)-octadeca-9,12-dien-1-ol, (9Z,12Z,15Z)-octadeca-9,12-dien-1-ol, cutadeca-9,12,15-trien-1-ol, (9Z)-eicosa-9-en-1-ol, (5Z,8Z,11Z,14Z)-eicosa-5,8,11,14-tetraen-1-ol, (13Z)-docos-13-en-1-ol, (13E)-docose-1-ol, 2-octyl-dodecanol, 2-hexyl-dodecanol, and / or 2-butyl-dodecanol. At least one C preferably selected from the group consisting of 12- C 24 The agent according to any one of [1] to
[14] , characterized in that it contains a fatty alcohol.
[16] Equation (TI): TIFF0007603671000031.tif3288 [where: Rb is a saturated or unsaturated, unbranched or branched C 8- C 24 Alkyl groups, preferably saturated, unbranched C 16- C 18 represents an alkyl group, m is an integer from 10 to 40, preferably an integer from 20 to 35, and particularly preferably the number 30. The agent according to any one of [1] to
[15] , characterized in that it contains at least one nonionic surfactant, preferably selected from the following nonionic surfactants:
[17] The agent according to any one of [1] to
[16] , which contains water and has a pH of 7.0 to 11.5, preferably 8.0 to 11.0, and particularly preferably 8.5 to 10.5.
[18] The following steps: (1) applying the colorant according to any one of [1] to
[17] to a keratinous material; (2) exposing the keratinous material to a colorant; and (3) Rinse off the dye with water 1. A method for dyeing keratinous materials, in particular human hair, comprising:
[19] (2) Exposing the colorant (a) to the keratinous material for a period ranging from 30 seconds to 15 minutes, preferably from 30 seconds to 10 minutes, and particularly preferably from 1 to 5 minutes. The method according to
[18] , EXAMPLES
[0247] [1. Preparation] The following formulations were prepared (all data in % by weight unless otherwise stated): [Table 1]
[0248] [2. Application] After preparation, each agent (V1 and E1) was applied to the hair (Kerling, Euronatural hair white, liquor ratio: 1 g agent per 1 g hair). The agent was left to act for 3 minutes. Afterwards, the hair was thoroughly washed with water (1 min), dried and then colorimetrically measured with a Datacolor colorimeter, Spectraflash 450 model.
[0249] The dE value used to evaluate color intensity is calculated by the L * a * b * Colorimetric values are derived from: dE=[(L i -L0) 2 +(a i -a0) 2 +(b i -b0)] 1 / 2 L0, a0, and b0 = measurements of comparative staining (V1) L i , a i , and b i =Measured value of staining by (E) of the present invention
[0250] The chromaticity of the coloring is calculated according to the following formula:
number
[0251] The L value indicates the brightness of a color. The lower the L value, the darker and more intense the color. [Table 2]
[0252] A darker, more intense color (lower L value) and a higher color (higher C value) were measured for the agent of the invention (E1).
Claims
1. (a1) at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer, and (a2) at least one pigment having a solubility in water of less than 0.1 g / L at 25° C.; and (a3) at least one organic carbonate An agent for dyeing keratinous materials, comprising (a1) The at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer has the formula (Si amino): 【Chemistry 1】 [In the formula, ALK1 and ALK2 independently represent a linear or branched C 1 -C 20 divalent alkylene group. At least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1) comprising at least one structural unit of (a3) the at least one organic carbonate (a3) General formula (KSE-I): 【Chemistry 2】 [where: R1 and R2 independently represent a C 1 -C 12 alkyl group, a hydroxy-C 1 -C 12 alkyl group, or an optionally substituted aryl group. At least one organic carbonate ester of A formulation containing:
2. Structural units of formula (Si-I) and structural units of formula (Si-II): 【Chemistry 3】 2. The agent according to claim 1, characterized in that it comprises at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1) comprising:
3. 3. The agent according to claim 1, characterized in that it comprises one or more amino-functionalized silicone polymers (a1) in a total amount of from 0.1 to 8.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
4. 4. The agent according to claim 1 , characterized in that it comprises at least one coloring compound (a2) selected from the group of inorganic pigments selected from the group of colored metal oxides, metal hydroxides, metal oxide hydrates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, bronze pigments and / or selected from colored mica or mica-based pigments coated with at least one metal oxide and / or metal oxychloride.
5. Carmine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, sorghum, blue pigments having Color Index Numbers CI 42090, CI 69800, CI 69825, CI 73000, CI 74100, CI 74160, yellow pigments having Color Index Numbers CI 11680, CI 11710, CI 15985, CI 19140, CI 20040, CI 21100, CI 21108, CI 47000, CI 47005, green pigments having Color Index Numbers CI 61565, CI 61570, CI 74260, orange pigments having Color Index Numbers CI 11725, CI 15510, CI 45370, CI 71105 5. The agent according to claim 1, characterized in that it contains at least one coloring compound (a2) selected from the group of organic pigments, selected from the group consisting of red pigments having the color index numbers CI 12085, CI 12120, CI 12370, CI 12420, CI 12490, CI 14700, CI 15525, CI 15580, CI 15620, CI 15630, CI 15800, CI 15850, CI 15865, CI 15880, CI 17200, CI 26100, CI 45380, CI 45410, CI 58000, CI 73360, CI 73915, and / or CI 75470.
6. 6. The agent according to claim 1, characterized in that it contains one or more pigments (a2) in a total amount of 0.01 to 10.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition (a).
7. (a3) at least one organic carbonate ester selected from the group consisting of di(n-octyl)carbonate), di(n-hexyl)carbonate), di(n-propyl)carbonate), dimethyl carbonate, diethyl carbonate, and diphenyl carbonate; The agent according to any one of claims 1 to 6, comprising:
8. 8. The agent according to claim 1, characterized in that it comprises one or more organic carbonates (a3) in a total amount of 0.1 to 20.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the agent.
9. Dodecan-1-ol, tetradecan-1-ol, hexadecan-1-ol, octadecane-1-ol, arachyl alcohol, henicosyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, (9Z)-octadec-9-en-1-ol, (9E)-octadec-9-en-1-ol, (9Z,12Z)-octadeca-9,12-dien-1-ol, (9Z,12Z,15Z)-octadec-9,12-dien-1-ol, Deca-9,12,15-trien-1-ol, (9Z)-eicosa-9-en-1-ol, (5Z,8Z,11Z,14Z)-eicosa-5,8,11,14-tetraen-1-ol, (13Z)-docos-13-en-1-ol, (13E)-docose-1-ol, 2-octyl-dodecanol, 2-hexyl-dodecanol, and / or 2-butyl-dodecanol. At least one C selected from the group consisting of 12- C 24 The agent according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it contains a fatty alcohol.
10. Formula (TI): 【Chemistry 4】 [where: Rb is a saturated or unsaturated, unbranched or branched C 8- C 24 represents an alkyl group, m is an integer from 10 to 40. The agent according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it contains at least one nonionic surfactant selected from the following nonionic surfactants:
11. The agent according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it contains water and has a pH of 7.0 to 11.
5.
12. Steps below: (1) applying a coloring agent according to any one of claims 1 to 11 to a keratinous material; (2) exposing the keratinous material to a colorant; and (3) Rinse off the dye with water 1. A method for dyeing keratinous material comprising:
13. (2) exposing the colorant (a) to the keratinous material for a period ranging from 30 seconds to 15 minutes; The method according to claim 12, characterized in that
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