Light protection composition

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition comprising at least one aqueous phase comprising (i) at least a first hydrophilic gelling agent selected from non-starch polysaccharides and (ii) at least a second hydrophilic gelling agent selected from 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers, and at least one oily phase comprising (a) at least a first lipophilic gelling agent selected from amino acid-based gelling agents, and (b) at least a second lipophilic gelling agent selected from dextrin esters, wherein the composition also comprises at least one UV-blocking agent.

Description

[Technical field]

[0001] The present invention is directed to proposing new compositions for the cosmetic field, in particular for the care, hygiene, protection and / or make-up of keratinous materials, preferably for the care of the skin of the body or face, which are particularly highly advantageous in terms of their technical performance level and the sensory sensation they impart to the user, in particular to the user's skin, when applied thereto.

[0002] The term "keratinous materials" is intended to mean in particular the skin, the lips and keratinous fibres such as hair, in particular the skin and / or hair, in particular of the body and / or face, preferably the skin.

[0003] The invention relates in particular to the field of photoprotective cosmetic compositions, also called sunscreen products or photoprotective products, and also to the corresponding cosmetic treatment methods.

[0004] Keratinous materials, particularly skin, are exposed to sunlight on a daily basis.

[0005] Indeed, it is known that prolonged exposure of the skin to this polychromatic light can induce skin disorders or superficial damage.

[0006] Due to this exposure, some people may see the appearance of darker and / or more pigmented marks, especially on the skin, and more specifically on the face, neckline, arms, hands and shoulders, which results in a lack of uniformity in the skin, which for obvious reasons poses aesthetic problems.

[0007] To counter these undesirable effects, it has become common practice to use photoprotective compositions which incorporate organic or inorganic anti-UV screening agents.

[0008] Photoprotective compositions generally contain organic and / or inorganic UV-screening agents, which act according to their own chemical nature and according to their own properties by absorbing, reflecting or scattering UV radiation. The photoprotective compositions generally contain a mixture of oil-soluble organic and / or water-soluble UV-screening agents.

[0009] UVA blocking agents advantageously make it possible to block UVA radiation having a wavelength between 320 and 400 nm, which causes tanning of the skin and is prone to induce harmful changes in the skin, especially in the case of sensitive skin or skin that is continuously exposed to solar radiation, and which in particular causes loss of elasticity of the skin and the appearance of wrinkles, thereby resulting in premature aging of the skin.

[0010] As for the UVB blocking agent, it makes it possible to block UVB radiation having a wavelength of 280-320 nm, which also allows for epidermal tanning, but is prone to cause erythema and superficial skin burns that can be detrimental to natural tanning. [Background technology]

[0011] To date, a wide variety of photoprotective compositions are known for protecting keratinous materials, and more particularly the skin, against the harmful effects induced by UVA and / or UVB radiation, which mainly comprise, as anti-UV active agents, a combination of several organic or inorganic UV blocking agents carried in an oily and / or aqueous phase, and are generally proposed in the form of an emulsion or gel type presentation.

[0012] It is also known that to achieve high levels of blocking efficiency, high loadings of blocking agent are required.

[0013] However, high contents of UV-screening agents do not lend themselves to easy preparation of compositions with a stabilized and pleasant texture.

[0014] Thus, formulations with high barrier power generally have unpleasant or even unpleasant sensory aspects that mask the freshness and comfort of the formulation.In particular, a weakness of photoprotective formulations with high protection index is that they often have a strongly sticky and viscous feeling, thus lacking the lightness and / or freshness of the resulting texture, as well as a white appearance upon application, which is therefore visible on the skin.

[0015] Furthermore, the introduction of high amounts of UV screening agents generally results in instability issues, which can sometimes further cause phase separation and / or loss of viscosity of the composition, rendering the formulation ineffective or even unusable.

[0016] In order to overcome the above-mentioned undesirable effects, especially to obtain a refreshing effect when applied and an invisible effect on the skin, aqueous presentation forms have already been considered.However, these aqueous compositions containing UV screening agents are generally sticky and therefore uncomfortable, as well as very runny.

[0017] It has also been proposed to use polymers to structure aqueous gels containing blocking agents, however this solution is generally unsatisfactory as the structuring polymers chosen unfortunately exhibit low resistance to electrolytes and also degrade the sensory properties of the composition.

[0018] To overcome the aforementioned undesirable effects, the use of aqueous compositions containing UV-screening agents in combination with certain other compounds has previously been considered.

[0019] However, these compositions lack a refreshing feeling upon application and exhibit poor stability over time. Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0020] As a result, it remains difficult to reconcile in the same light protection composition conflicting technical performance qualities, such as a high level of UV protection, which usually implies a sticky and tacky finish on the skin, and a pleasant sensory aspect, in particular provided by a refreshing perception.

[0021] There remains a need for light protective compositions that have a high level of UV protection and yet are transparent when applied.

[0022] In particular, there remains a need for light protective compositions which have a high level of UV protection, have pleasing sensory properties, are advantageously light and preferably transparent when applied.

[0023] There is also a need for photoprotective compositions that have a high level of UV protection and that are completely stable, ie, do not demix.

[0024] There is therefore still a particular need to provide refreshing and stable cosmetic compositions which, when applied to keratinous materials, are transparent, are not sticky or tacky and have good efficacy against solar radiation, in particular UV radiation, in particular a satisfactory sun protection factor (SPF).

[0025] The present invention is specifically directed to meeting these needs. [Means for solving the problem]

[0026] After considerable research into the problem, it has now been found by the Applicant quite unexpectedly and surprisingly that it becomes possible to achieve these objectives by combining specific gelling agents.

[0027] Thus, according to a first of its aspects, the present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, in particular a composition for making up and / or caring for keratinous materials, in particular a cosmetic composition, which composition comprises (i) at least a first hydrophilic gelling agent selected from a non-starch polysaccharide; and (ii) at least a second hydrophilic gelling agent selected from 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers; At least one aqueous phase comprising (a) at least a first lipophilic gelling agent selected from amino acid-based gelling agents; and (b) at least a second lipophilic gelling agent selected from dextrin esters; At least one oily phase comprising Including, The composition also comprises at least one UV blocking agent. The present invention relates to the composition.

[0028] Preferably, in the composition according to the invention, the aqueous and oily phases are gelled.

[0029] Thus, according to one preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, in particular a composition for making up and / or caring for keratinous materials, in particular a cosmetic composition, which comprises (i) at least a first hydrophilic gelling agent selected from a non-starch polysaccharide; and (ii) at least a second hydrophilic gelling agent selected from 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers; At least one aqueous phase gelled with (a) at least a first lipophilic gelling agent selected from amino acid-based gelling agents; and (b) at least a second lipophilic gelling agent selected from dextrin esters; At least one oily phase gelled with Including, The composition also comprises at least one UV blocking agent. The present invention relates to the composition.

[0030] Quite unexpectedly, the inventors have observed that the combination of a particular gelling agent and a UV-blocking agent in a formulation according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a composition that, when applied, gives the perception of a very refreshing feeling, while at the same time preserving good cosmetic properties and a high level of protection.

[0031] As will become apparent from the following examples, the compositions according to the invention exhibit good freshness benefits and are clear when applied.

[0032] The compositions according to the invention exhibit good protective properties and are stable while at the same time remaining fresh and transparent when applied to keratinous materials.

[0033] In addition, compositions according to the invention advantageously tolerate the addition of electrolytes and large amounts of alcohol, especially ethanol.

[0034] Preferably, the composition according to the invention has a gel / gel type structure and is therefore preferably different from an emulsion.

[0035] According to one preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention does not contain a surfactant.

[0036] According to another of its aspects, an object of the present invention is also a cosmetic method for making up and / or caring for keratinous materials, in particular the skin and / or lips, comprising at least one step consisting of applying to said keratinous materials a composition as defined above. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS

[0037] Hydrophilic gelling agents For the purposes of the present invention, the term "hydrophilic gelling agent" means a compound capable of gelling the aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention.

[0038] Thus, the hydrophilic gelling agent is present in the aqueous phase of the composition.

[0039] As specified above, the composition according to the invention comprises at least a first hydrophilic gelling agent (i) chosen from non-starch polysaccharides, and at least a second hydrophilic gelling agent (ii) chosen from 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers.

[0040] First hydrophilic gelling agent (i) The composition according to the invention comprises at least a first hydrophilic gelling agent (i) chosen from non-starch polysaccharides.

[0041] The non-starch polysaccharides may be selected from polysaccharides produced by microorganisms, polysaccharides isolated from algae, and polysaccharides derived from higher plants, such as homopolysaccharides, in particular cellulose and their derivatives or fructosans, heteropolysaccharides, such as gum arabic, galactomannans, glucomannans and pectins and their derivatives, and mixtures thereof.

[0042] In particular, the non-starch polysaccharides are fructans, gellans, glucans, amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, pullulan, dextran, cellulose and derivatives thereof, in particular methylcellulose, hydroxyalkylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, mannans, xylans, lignins, araban, galactans, galacturonans, alginate-based compounds, chitin, chitosan, glucuronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, pentose ... The sugars may be selected from: lactic acid and pectin, arabinogalactan, carrageenan, agar, glycosaminoglucans, gum arabic, gum tragacanth, gum ghatti, gum karaya, locust bean gum, galactomannans, such as guar gum and non-ionic derivatives thereof, in particular hydroxypropyl guar and ionic derivatives thereof, biopolysaccharide gums of microbial origin, in particular scleroglucan or xanthan gum, mucopolysaccharides, in particular chondroitin sulfate, and mixtures thereof.

[0043] More particularly, the first hydrophilic gelling agent (i) may be selected from carrageenans, in particular kappa carrageenan, gellan gum, agar, xanthan gum, alginate-based compounds, in particular sodium alginate, scleroglucan gum, guar gum, inulin and pullulan, and mixtures thereof.

[0044] Preferably, the first hydrophilic gelling agent (i) is xanthan gum.

[0045] Preferably, the aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, of at least a first hydrophilic gelling agent (i) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0046] A second hydrophilic gelling agent (ii) The composition according to the invention comprises at least a second hydrophilic gelling agent (ii) chosen from 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers.

[0047] Thus, the polymers used, suitable as second hydrophilic gelling agents (ii) for the present invention, may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers comprising at least the 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS™) monomer in a form partially or fully neutralized with an inorganic base other than aqueous ammonia, such as sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide.

[0048] The polymer is preferably fully or nearly fully neutralized, ie, at least 90% neutralized.

[0049] These AMPS™ polymers according to the present invention can be crosslinked or non-crosslinked.

[0050] When the polymer is crosslinked, the crosslinking agent may be chosen from the polyolefinically unsaturated compounds commonly used to crosslink polymers obtained by radical polymerization.

[0051] Examples of crosslinking agents that may be mentioned include divinylbenzene, diallyl ether, dipropylene glycol diallyl ether, polyglycol diallyl ether, triethylene glycol divinyl ether, hydroquinone diallyl ether, ethylene glycol or tetraethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate, trimethylolpropane triacrylate, methylene bisacrylamide, methylene bismethacrylamide, triallylamine, triallyl cyanurate, diallyl maleate, tetraallylethylenediamine, tetraallyloxyethane, trimethylolpropane diallyl ether, allyl (meth)acrylate, allyl ethers of alcohols of the sugar series or other allyl ethers or vinyl ethers of polyfunctional alcohols, and allyl esters of phosphoric and / or vinylphosphonic acid derivatives, or mixtures of these compounds.

[0052] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the crosslinking agent is selected from methylenebisacrylamide, allyl methacrylate and trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA). The degree of crosslinking is generally between 0.01% and 10% by mole, more particularly between 0.2% and 2% by mole, relative to the polymer.

[0053] The AMPS™ polymers suitable for use in the present invention are water-soluble or water-dispersible. In this case, they are either "homopolymers" that contain only AMPS™ monomers and, if crosslinked, contain one or more crosslinking agents, such as those defined above, or copolymers obtained from AMPS™ and one or more hydrophilic or hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers and, if crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents, such as those defined above. If the copolymer contains hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers, these monomers do not contain fatty chains and are preferably present in small amounts.

[0054] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "fatty chain" means any hydrocarbon-based chain containing at least 7 carbon atoms.

[0055] The term "water-soluble or water-dispersible" means a polymer which, when introduced into an aqueous phase at a concentration by weight equal to 1% at 25° C., makes it possible to obtain a macroscopically homogeneous and transparent solution, i.e. a solution having a maximum light transmission value, at a wavelength equal to 500 nm, through a sample of 1 cm thickness, of at least 60%, preferably at least 70%.

[0056] The "homopolymers" according to the invention are preferably crosslinked and neutralized and may be obtained according to a preparation method comprising the following steps: (a) a monomer such as AMPS™ is dispersed or dissolved in free form in a tert-butanol solution or in a water and tert-butanol solution, (b) the monomer solution or dispersion obtained in (a) is neutralized with one or more inorganic or organic bases, preferably aqueous ammonia NH3, in an amount making it possible to obtain a degree of neutralization of the sulfonic acid functional groups of the polymer of between 90% and 100%, (c) one or more crosslinking monomers are added to the solution or dispersion obtained in (b), (d) a standard free radical polymerization is carried out in the presence of a free radical initiator at a temperature between 10° C. and 150° C. and the polymer is precipitated in the tert-butanol-based solution or dispersion.

[0057] The water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS™ copolymers according to the present invention comprise water-soluble ethylenically unsaturated monomers, hydrophobic monomers, or mixtures thereof.

[0058] The water-soluble comonomers can be ionic or non-ionic.

[0059] Among the ionic water-soluble comonomers, mention may be made, for example, of the following compounds and their salts: (meth)acrylic acid, styrenesulfonic acid, vinylsulfonic acid and (meth)allylsulfonic acid, vinylphosphonic acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid, crotonic acid, water-soluble vinyl monomers of formula (A)

[0060] [ka] where R1 is selected from H, -CH3, -C2H5 or -C3H7, and X1 is selected from alkyl oxides of the type -OR2, where R2 is at least one sulfonic acid group (-SO 3- ) and / or sulfate groups (-SO 4- ) and / or phosphate groups (-PO4H2-).

[0061] Among the nonionic water-soluble comonomers, for example, (meth)acrylamide, N-vinylacetamide and N-methyl-N-vinylacetamide, N-vinylformamide and N-methyl-N-vinylformamide, maleic anhydride, vinylamine, N-vinyllactams containing a cyclic alkyl group having 4 to 9 carbon atoms, such as N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-butyrolactam and N-vinylcaprolactam, vinyl alcohol of formula CH2=CHOH, water-soluble vinyl monomers of formula (B)

[0062] [ka] where R3 is selected from H, -CH3, -C2H5 or -C3H7, and X2 is selected from alkyl oxides of the type -OR4, where R4 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with halogen (iodine, bromine, chlorine or fluorine) atoms, a hydroxyl (-OH) group, an ether, may be mentioned.

[0063] For example, glycidyl (meth)acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate and (meth)acrylates of ethylene glycol, of diethylene glycol or of polyalkylene glycols may be mentioned.

[0064] Among the hydrophobic comonomers not having an aliphatic chain, for example, styrene and its derivatives, such as 4-butylstyrene, alpha-methylstyrene and vinyltoluene; vinyl acetate of formula CH2=CH-OCOCH3; vinyl ethers of formula CH2=CHOR, where R is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical having 1 to 6 carbons; acrylonitrile; caprolactone; vinyl chloride and vinylidene chloride; silicone derivatives which result in silicone polymers after polymerization, such as methacryloxypropyltris(trimethylsiloxy)silane and silicone methacrylamide; hydrophobic vinyl monomers of formula (C)

[0065] [ka] where R4 is selected from H, -CH3, -C2H5 or -C3H7, and X3 is selected from alkyl oxides of the type -OR5, where R5 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, may be mentioned.

[0066] For example, mention may be made of methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, n-butyl (meth)acrylate, tert-butyl (meth)acrylate, cyclohexyl acrylate, isobornyl acrylate and 2-ethylhexyl acrylate.

[0067] The water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS™ polymers of the present invention preferably have a molar mass of from 50000 g / mol to 10 million g / mol, preferably from 80000 g / mol to 8 million g / mol, even more preferably from 100000 g / mol to 7 million g / mol.

[0068] As water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS® homopolymers suitable for use in the present invention, mention may be made, for example, of the crosslinked or non-crosslinked polymers of sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate, in particular those used in the commercial product Simulgel 800 (CTFA name: Sodium polyacryloyldimethyltaurate), the crosslinked ammonium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate polymers (INCI name: Ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide), such as those described in EP 0 815 928, and the product sold, for example, under the name Hostacerin AMPS® by the company Clariant.

[0069] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises an AMPS™ homopolymer.

[0070] Examples which may be mentioned as water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS® copolymers according to the invention are: Crosslinked acrylamide / sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate copolymers, in particular those used in the commercial product Sepigel 305 by the company SEPPIC (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide / C 13 ~C 14 isoparaffin / laureth-7) or that used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel 600 (CTFA: acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate / isohexadecane / polysorbate-80), Copolymers of AMPS® with vinylpyrrolidone or vinylformamide, in particular those used in the commercial product sold by Clariant under the name Aristoflex AVC® (CTFA name: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP Copolymer), but neutralized with sodium or potassium hydroxide; Copolymers of AMPS® and sodium acrylate, in particular the AMPS® / sodium acrylate copolymers, in particular those used in the commercial product sold by the company SEPPIC under the name Simulgel EG® or under the trade name Sepinov EM (CTFA name: Hydroxyethyl acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer), Copolymers of AMPS™ and hydroxyethyl acrylate, in particular the AMPS™ / hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymers, in particular those used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel NS™ by the company SEPPIC (CTFA name: Hydroxyethyl acrylate / Sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer (and) Squalane (and) Polysorbate 60) or, for example, products sold under the name Sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate / Hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer, for example the commercial product Sepinov EMT 10 (INCI name: Hydroxyethyl acrylate / Sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer). Includes:

[0071] As water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS™ copolymers preferred according to the invention, mention may be made of the copolymers of AMPS™ and vinylpyrrolidone or vinylformamide, in particular those used in the commercial product sold by Clariant under the name Aristoflex AVC™ (CTFA name: Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer), but neutralized with sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide.

[0072] Thus, according to one preferred embodiment, the second hydrophilic gelling agent (ii) is selected from 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid copolymers, preferably from copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and vinylpyrrolidone or vinylformamide, more preferably from copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and vinylpyrrolidone.

[0073] Preferably, the aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.4% to 2% by weight, of at least a second hydrophilic gelling agent (ii) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0074] Lipophilic gelling agents For the purposes of the present invention, the term "lipophilic gelling agent" means a compound capable of gelling the oily phase of a composition according to the invention.

[0075] The lipophilic gelling agent is therefore present in the oily phase of the composition.

[0076] As specified above, the composition according to the invention comprises at least a first lipophilic gelling agent (a) chosen from amino acid-based gelling agents, and at least a second lipophilic gelling agent (b) chosen from dextrin esters.

[0077] The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least a third lipophilic gelling agent (c) chosen especially from semicrystalline polymers.

[0078] First lipophilic gelling agent (a) The composition according to the invention comprises at least a first lipophilic gelling agent (a) chosen from amino acid-based gelling agents.

[0079] In particular, the amino acid-based gelling agents are selected from the N-acylamino acid derivatives defined in US Pat. No. 5,843,194, in particular N-lauroyl glutamic acid diethylamide, N-lauroyl glutamic acid dibutylamide (dibutyl lauroyl glutamide), N-lauroyl glutamic acid dihexylamide, N-lauroyl glutamic acid dioctylamide, N-lauroyl glutamic acid didecylamide, N-lauroyl glutamic acid didodecylamide, N-lauroyl glutamic acid ditetradecylamide, N-lauroyl glutamic acid dihexadecylamide, N-lauroyl glutamic acid distearylamide, N-stearoyl glutamine, The N-acyl amino acid derivative may be selected from N-acyl amino acid derivatives selected from acid dibutylamide, N-stearoyl glutamic acid dihexylamide, N-stearoyl glutamic acid dihexylamide (dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide), N-stearoyl glutamic acid diheptylamide, N-stearoyl glutamic acid dioctylamide, N-stearoyl glutamic acid didecylamide, N-stearoyl glutamic acid didodecylamide, N-stearoyl glutamic acid dioctylamide, N-stearoyl glutamic acid dihexadecylamide, N-stearoyl glutylamide, N-stearoyl glutamic acid distearylamide, and mixtures thereof.

[0080] Preferably, the first lipophilic gelling agent (a) is selected from dibutyl lauroyl glutamide and dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide.

[0081] More preferably, the first lipophilic gelling agent (a) is dibutyl lauroyl glutamide.

[0082] Preferably, the oily phase of a composition according to the invention comprises from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, of at least a first lipophilic gelling agent (a) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0083] A second lipophilic gelling agent (b) The composition according to the invention comprises at least a second lipophilic gelling agent (b) chosen from dextrin esters.

[0084] In particular, the composition comprises dextrin and, in particular, C 12 ~C 24 Fatty acids, preferably C 14 ~C 18 and a second lipophilic gelling agent (b) selected from fatty acids, esters thereof, or mixtures thereof.

[0085] More preferably, the dextrin ester comprises dextrin and C 12 ~C 18 Fatty acids, especially C 14 ~C 18 It is an ester of fatty acids.

[0086] According to one particularly preferred embodiment, the dextrin ester is chosen from dextrin myristate and / or dextrin palmitate.

[0087] According to one particular embodiment, the dextrin ester is dextrin myristate, and more particularly the dextrin myristate sold, for example, under the name Rheopearl MKL-2 by Chiba Flour Milling Co., Ltd.

[0088] Particularly preferably, the dextrin ester is dextrin palmitate. This product may be chosen, for example, from those sold under the names Rheopearl TL™, Rheopearl KL™ and Rheopearl™ KL2 by Chiba Flour Mills.

[0089] Preferably, the oily phase of a composition according to the invention comprises from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and preferably from 0.4% to 2% by weight, of at least a second lipophilic gelling agent (b) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0090] A third lipophilic gelling agent (c) According to one preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention may also comprise at least a third lipophilic gelling agent (c).

[0091] Said third lipophilic gelling agent (c) may in particular be chosen from semi-crystalline polymers.

[0092] Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymer has an organic structure and a melting point above 30°C.

[0093] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "semicrystalline polymer" refers to a polymer that contains crystallizable and amorphous portions, in particular having a reversible first-order change in phase temperature of the melt (solid-liquid transition), the crystallizable portions being either side chains (or pendant chains) or blocks in the main chain.

[0094] When the crystallizable portion of the semi-crystalline polymer is a block of the polymer backbone, the crystallizable block has a different chemical nature than the amorphous block, in which case the semi-crystalline polymer is a block copolymer, for example of the diblock, triblock or multiblock type. When the crystallizable portion is a chain pendant to the backbone, the semi-crystalline polymer can be a homopolymer or a copolymer.

[0095] The melting point of the semi-crystalline polymer is preferably below 150°C.

[0096] The melting point of the semi-crystalline polymer is preferably ≧30° C. and below 100° C. More preferably, the melting point of the semi-crystalline polymer is ≧30° C. and below 70° C.

[0097] The one or more semicrystalline polymers according to the invention are solid at ambient temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) and have a melting point of 30° C. or higher. The melting point value corresponds to the melting point measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the company Mettler, with a temperature increase of 5° C. or 10° C. per minute (the melting point considered is the point corresponding to the temperature of the highest endothermic peak in the thermogram).

[0098] The one or more semicrystalline polymers according to the invention preferably have a melting point higher than the temperature of the keratin support intended to receive the composition, in particular the skin, the lips or the eyebrows.

[0099] According to the invention, the semicrystalline polymers are advantageously soluble in the fatty phase at temperatures above their melting point, in particular to at least 1% by weight. The blocks of the polymer other than the crystallizable chains or blocks are amorphous.

[0100] For the purposes of this invention, the term "crystallizable chain or block", when used alone, means a chain or block that can reversibly change from an amorphous state to a crystalline state depending on whether the temperature is above or below the melting point. For the purposes of this invention, a chain is a group of atoms that is pendant or lateral to the polymer backbone. A "block" is a group of atoms that belongs to the backbone and that constitutes one of the repeating units of the polymer.

[0101] Preferably, the polymer backbones of the semi-crystalline polymers are soluble in the fatty phase at temperatures above their melting points.

[0102] Preferably, the crystallizable block or chain of the semicrystalline polymer represents at least 30% of the total weight of each polymer, and even better at least 40%. The semicrystalline polymers carrying crystallizable side chains are homopolymers or copolymers. The semicrystalline polymers of the invention carrying crystallizable blocks are block or multiblock copolymers. They can be obtained by polymerizing monomers carrying reactive (or ethylenic) double bonds or by polycondensation. When the polymers of the invention are polymers carrying crystallizable side chains, they are advantageously of random or statistical morphology.

[0103] Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymers of the present invention are of synthetic origin.

[0104] According to a preferred embodiment, the semi-crystalline polymer comprises Homopolymers and copolymers comprising units resulting from the polymerization of one or more monomers carrying one or more crystallizable hydrophobic side chains; a polymer carrying at least one crystallizable block in its backbone; Polycondensates of the aliphatic or aromatic or aliphatic / aromatic polyester type, Copolymers of ethylene and propylene prepared via metallocene catalysis, and Acrylate / Silicone Copolymer is selected from.

[0105] The semicrystalline polymers which can be used in the present invention are in particular the monomers being polyolefin block copolymers of controlled crystallization as described in EP 0 951 897; In particular polycondensates of the aliphatic or aromatic or aliphatic / aromatic polyester type, Copolymers of ethylene and propylene prepared via metallocene catalysis; Homopolymers or copolymers carrying at least one crystallizable side chain and at least one crystallizable block in the main chain, such as those described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,156,911, in particular those corresponding to the Intelimer® products of Landec, described in the Intelimer® Polymers Brochure, Landec IP22 (Rev. 4-97) (C 10 ~C 30 ) alkyl polyacrylates, such as the product Intelimer® IPA 13-1 from the company Landec, which is a stearyl polyacrylate having a molecular weight of about 145,000 and a melting point equal to 49° C., or the Tego® products from the company Evonik, and for example the Tego® SP13-1 product, which is a stearyl polyacrylate having a molecular weight of about 145,000 and a melting point equal to 49° C., Homopolymers or copolymers carrying at least one crystallizable side chain, in particular having one or more fluoro groups, such as those described in WO 01 / 19333, Acrylate / silicone copolymers, such as copolymers of acrylic acid and stearyl acrylate carrying polydimethylsiloxane grafts, copolymers of stearyl methacrylate carrying polydimethylsiloxane grafts, copolymers of acrylic acid and stearyl methacrylate carrying polydimethylsiloxane grafts, copolymers of methyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl acrylate and stearyl methacrylate carrying polydimethylsiloxane grafts. Mention may in particular be made of the copolymers sold by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co. Ltd. under the names KP-561 (CTFA name: acrylates / dimethicone), KP-541 (CTFA name: acrylates / dimethicone and isopropyl alcohol), KP-545 (CTFA name: acrylates / dimethicone and cyclopentasiloxane) or KSG-16 (dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer (and) dimethicone), and mixtures thereof can be selected from:

[0106] Preferably, said third lipophilic gelling agent (c) is chosen from homopolymers or copolymers carrying at least one crystallizable side chain and homopolymers or copolymers carrying at least one crystallizable block in their main chain.

[0107] According to one particularly preferred embodiment, the third lipophilic gelling agent (c) is 10 ~C 30 ) alkyl polyacrylates, more preferably stearyl polyacrylates.

[0108] Preferably, the oily phase of a composition according to the invention comprises from 0.2% to 5% by weight, and preferably from 0.5% to 2% by weight, of at least a third lipophilic gelling agent (c) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0109] UV Blocking Agent As previously mentioned, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one UV blocking agent.

[0110] In particular, the composition according to the invention may contain at least one compound for blocking UVA and / or UVB rays.

[0111] Preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one UV blocking agent selected from hydrophilic organic UV blocking agents, lipophilic organic UV blocking agents, insoluble organic UV blocking agents, inorganic blocking agents, and mixtures thereof.

[0112] According to one preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention, preferably the cosmetic composition, may comprise at least one organic and / or inorganic UV-screening agent (agent that blocks the UV radiation of sunlight).

[0113] The UV filter is a UV filter commonly used in cosmetic products. The UV filter may be selected from the list of free imports contained in Annex VI of Regulation (EC) No 1223 / 2009, which specifies the list of UV filters permitted in cosmetic products.

[0114] The UV-screening agents of the composition according to the invention can be of various nature.

[0115] The UV blocking agent can be a lipophilic, hydrophilic or insoluble organic agent.

[0116] The term "lipophilic UV screening agent" means any cosmetic or dermatological screening agent which can be completely dissolved in a liquid fatty phase in molecular form or which can be dissolved in a liquid fatty phase in colloidal form (for example in micellar form).

[0117] The term "hydrophilic UV screening agent" means any cosmetic or dermatological screening agent that can be completely dissolved in a liquid aqueous phase in molecular form or that can be dissolved in a liquid aqueous phase in colloidal form (e.g. micellar form).

[0118] The term "insoluble UV-screening agent" means any cosmetic or dermatological screening agent which is not defined as either a lipophilic or a hydrophilic UV-screening agent and which is present in an aqueous or liquid fatty phase in particulate form.

[0119] The UV-blocking agents of the composition according to the invention may provide UVA and / or UVB photoprotection.

[0120] According to one particular embodiment, the composition also comprises at least one UV blocking agent selected from hydrophilic organic UV blocking agents, lipophilic organic UV blocking agents, insoluble organic UV blocking agents, inorganic blocking agents, and any mixtures thereof.

[0121] According to one preferred embodiment, the composition also comprises at least one UV-blocking agent selected from hydrophilic organic UV-blocking agents, lipophilic organic UV-blocking agents, insoluble organic UV-blocking agents, and any mixtures thereof.

[0122] In particular, the composition may comprise one or more bis-resorcinyl triazine derivatives prepared according to the synthesis described and shown in EP 0775698.

[0123] Examples of such compounds that can be used include 2,4-Bis{[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine; 2,4-Bis{[4-(3-(2-propyloxy)-2-hydroxypropyloxy]-2-hydroxy]phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine; 2,4-Bis{[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]phenyl}-6-[4-(2-methoxyethylcarboxyl)phenylamino]-1,3,5-triazine; 2,4-Bis{[4-tris(trimethylsiloxysilylpropyloxy)-2-hydroxy]phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine; 2,4-Bis{[4-(2''-methylpropenyloxy)-2-hydroxy]phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine; 2,4-Bis{[4-(1',1',1',3',5',5',5'-heptamethyltrisiloxy-2''-methylpropyloxy)-2-hydroxy]phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine; 2,4-Bis{[4-(3-(2-propyloxy)-2-hydroxypropyloxy]-2-hydroxy]phenyl}-6-[(4-ethylcarboxyl)phenylamino]-1,3,5-triazine; 2,4-Bis{[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]phenyl}-6-(1-methylpyrrol-2-yl)-1,3,5-triazine may be mentioned.

[0124] More particularly, at least the compound 2,4-bis{[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine or bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (INCI name), in particular the product sold under the name Tinosorb S by Ciba-Geigy, may be used.

[0125] According to one embodiment, the composition may comprise one or more dibenzoylmethane derivatives, particularly but not limited to: 2-methyldibenzoylmethane, 4-methyldibenzoylmethane, 4-isopropyldibenzoylmethane, 4-tert-butyldibenzoylmethane, 2,4-dimethyldibenzoylmethane, 2,5-dimethyldibenzoylmethane, 4,4'-diisopropyldibenzoylmethane, 4,4'-dimethoxydibenzoylmethane, 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane, 2-methyl-5-isopropyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane, 2-methyl-5-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane, 2,4-dimethyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane, 2,6-Dimethyl-4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane may be mentioned.

[0126] According to one embodiment, the composition may contain one or more benzylidene camphor derivatives. 3-benzylidene camphor, in particular that manufactured by Chimex under the name Mexoryl SD; 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor, in particular that sold under the name Eusolex 6300 by Merck; Benzylidene camphorsulfonic acid, in particular that manufactured by Chimex under the name Mexoryl SL; Camphorbenzalkonium methosulfate, specifically camphorbenzalkonium methosulfate manufactured by Chimex under the name Mexoryl SO; Polyacrylamidomethylbenzylidene camphor, in particular polyacrylamidomethylbenzylidene camphor manufactured by Chimex under the name Mexoryl SW; Terephthalylidene dicamphorsulfonic acid, specifically terephthalylidene dicamphorsulfonic acid manufactured by Chimex under the name Mexoryl SX may be mentioned.

[0127] The organic UV-screening agents may also be anthranilic acids; cinnamic acid derivatives; salicylic acid derivatives; benzophenone derivatives; phenylbenzotriazole derivatives; benzalmalonate derivatives, especially those mentioned in U.S. Pat. No. 5,624,663; phenylbenzimidazole derivatives; imidazolines; 4,4-diarylbutadiene derivatives; bis(phenylene)-1,1-diphenylbutadiene derivatives; Benzazolyl derivatives; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) derivatives; methylene bis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) derivatives as described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,237,071, U.S. Pat. No. 5,166,355, GB 2,303,549, DE 19,726,184 and EP 893,119; benzoxazole derivatives, as described in DE 300137 and DE 10162844; blocking polymers and blocking silicones, for example those described, inter alia, in WO 93 / 04665; α-alkylstyrene-based dimers, as described, for example, in DE 19855649; EP 0967200, DE 19746654, DE 10162844; The merocyanine derivatives may be selected from 4,4-diarylbutadienes as described in EP19755649, EP1008586, EP1133980 and EP133981; other merocyanine derivatives as described in, for example, WO04 / 006878, WO05 / 058269 and WO06 / 032741, and mixtures thereof.

[0128] As examples of organic UV-screening agents that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of those indicated below by their INCI names.

[0129] Lipophilic UVA Blocker Dibenzoylmethane Derivatives isopropyl dibenzoylmethane, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (also known as Avobenzone).

[0130] Aminobenzophenone 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoic acid n-hexyl), notably 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoic acid n-hexyl) sold under the trade name Uvinul A+ by BASF (INCI name: Diethylaminohydroxybenzoylbenzoyl hexyl benzoate); 1,1'-(1,4-Piperazinediyl)bis[1-[2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]phenyl]methanone (CAS 919803-06-8).

[0131] Anthranilic Acid Derivatives Menthyl anthranilate, sold especially under the trade name Neo Heliopan MA by Symrise.

[0132] 4,4-Diarylbutadiene Derivatives 1,1-Dicarboxy(2,2'-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene.

[0133] Merocyanine Derivatives Octyl 5-N,N-diethylamino-2-phenylsulfonyl-2,4-pentadienoate.

[0134] According to one preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane.

[0135] Hydrophilic UVA Blocker Bis-benzoazolyl derivatives as described in EP 669323 and US 2463264, more particularly the disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate compound, especially the disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate compound sold under the name Neo Heliopan AP by Symrise.

[0136] According to one particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises terephthalylidene dicamphorsulfonic acid (for example sold under the trade name Mexoryl SX).

[0137] Lipophilic UVB Blockers Para-aminobenzoic acid Ethyl PABA, Ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA, Dimethyl PABA Ethylhexyl (ISP Escalol 507).

[0138] Salicylic Acid Derivatives Homosalate, sold especially under the name Eusolex HMS by Rona / EM Industries; Ethylhexyl salicylate, sold especially under the name Neo Heliopan OS by Symrise; dipropylene glycol salicylate, sold especially under the name Dipsal by Scher, Specifically, TEA salicylate, sold under the name Neo Heliopan TS by Symrise.

[0139] Cinnamic acid Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, sold especially under the trade name Parsol MCX by DSM Nutritional Products, Inc. Isopropyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl methoxycinnamate, sold in particular under the trade name Neo Heliopan E 1000 by Symrise; Methyl diisopropylcinnamate, Cinoxate, Glyceryl dimethoxycinnamate ethylhexanoate.

[0140] β,β'-Diphenyl acrylate derivatives Etocrilene, sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul N35 by BASF; Specifically, octocrylene, sold by BASF under the trade name Uvinul N539.

[0141] Benzylidene camphor derivatives 3-benzylidene camphor, sold especially under the name Mexoryl SD by Chimex, Methyl benzylidene camphor, sold especially under the name Eusolex 6300 by Merck, Polyacrylamidomethylbenzylidene camphor, sold especially under the name Mexoryl SW by Chimex.

[0142] Triazine Derivatives Ethylhexyl triazone, sold especially under the trade name Uvinul T150 by BASF, Diethylhexylbutamide triazone, sold especially under the trade name Uvasorb HEB by Sigma 3V; 2,4,6-tris(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4,6-tris(diisobutyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4-bis(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate)-s-triazine, 2,4-bis(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate)-6-(aminopropyltrisiloxane)-s-triazine, No. 6,225,467, WO 2004 / 085412 (see compounds 6 and 9) or the document Symmetrical Triazine Derivatives, IP.COM Journal, IP.COM INC West Henrietta, NY, US (20 September and symmetric triazine blockers described in Beiersdorf (European Patent Publication Nos. WO 06 / 035000, WO 06 / 034982, WO 06 / 034991, WO 06 / 035007, WO 2006 / 034992 and WO 2006 / 034985), in particular 2,4,6-tris(biphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine (particularly 2,4,6-tris(biphenyl-4-yl-1,3,5-triazine) and 2,4,6-tris(terphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine, two of which are described in Beiersdorf patent applications WO 06 / 035000, WO 06 / 034982, WO 06 / 034991, WO 06 / 035007, WO 2006 / 034992 and WO 2006 / 034985).

[0143] Imidazoline Derivatives Dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline ethylhexyl propionate.

[0144] Benzalmalonate derivatives Polyorganosiloxanes containing benzalmalonate functional groups, in particular polysilicone-15, especially the polysilicone-15 sold under the trade name Parsol SLX by DSM Nutritional Products, Inc.; Dineopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate.

[0145] According to one preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more UV-blocking agents chosen from the following blocking agents: homosalate (sold in particular under the name Eusolex HMS by Rona / EM Industries), ethylhexyl salicylate (sold in particular under the name NEO Heliopan OS by Symrise), octocrylene (sold in particular under the name Uvinul N539 by BASF), ethylhexyl triazone (sold in particular under the name Uvinul T150), and any mixtures thereof.

[0146] Hydrophilic UVB Blocker p-Aminobenzoic acid (PABA) derivatives as follows: PABA, Glyceryl PABA, and PEG-25 PABA, sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul P25 by BASF; phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, sold in particular under the trade name Eusolex 232 by Merck; Ferulic acid, Salicylic acid, DEA Methoxycinnamate, Benzylidene camphorsulfonic acid, sold especially under the name Mexoryl SL by Chimex, Specifically, camphorbenzalkonium methosulfate, sold under the name Mexoryl SO by Chimex.

[0147] Lipophilic mixed UVA and UVB blockers Benzophenone Derivatives Benzophenone-1, sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul 400 by BASF, Benzophenone-2, sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul D50 by BASF, Benzophenone-3 or oxybenzone, sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul M40 by BASF, Benzophenone-6, sold especially under the trade name Helisorb 11 by Norquay; Benzophenone-8, sold specifically under the trade name Spectra-Sorb UV-24 by American Cyanamid; Benzophenone-10, Benzophenone-11, Benzophenone-12.

[0148] Phenylbenzotriazole Derivatives Drometrizole trisiloxane, sold in particular under the name Silatrizole by Rhodia Chimie or under the name Meroxyl XL by the company Chimex; Methylene bis(benzotriazolyl)tetramethylbutylphenol, sold especially in solid form under the trade name Mixxim BB / 100 by Fairmount Chemical, or in micronized form as an aqueous dispersion sold especially under the trade name Tinosorb M by Ciba Specialty Chemicals.

[0149] According to one preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises drometrizole trisiloxane (in particular under the name Silatrizole by Rhodia Chimie or under the name Meroxyl XL by the company Chimex).

[0150] Benzoxazole Derivatives Specifically, 2,4-bis[5-1(dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)imino-1,3,5-triazine under the name Uvasorb K2A by Sigma 3V.

[0151] Hydrophilic blend of UVA and UVB blockers Benzophenone derivatives containing at least one sulfonic acid radical, in particular Benzophenone-4, in particular that sold under the trade name Uvinul 40 by BASF; Benzophenone-5, and Benzophenone-9.

[0152] Merocyanine family of UV blockers The composition according to the invention, preferably the cosmetic composition, may contain one or more UV-screening agents of the merocyanine family.Member may also be made of merocyanine-type screening agents, in particular those prepared according to the protocol described in WO 2007 / 071582, IP.com Journal (2009), 9(5A), 29-30 IPCOM000182396D, entitled Process for producing 3-amino-2-cyclohexan-1-ylidene compounds, and US Pat. No. 4,749,643 (column 13, line 66 to column 14, line 57 and the references cited therein).

[0153] According to one preferred embodiment, the composition comprises one or more lipophilic UV-screening agents.

[0154] According to one preferred embodiment, the composition comprises one or more UV-blocking agents selected from lipophilic UVA-blocking agents, lipophilic UVB-blocking agents, and / or lipophilic mixed UVA and UVB-blocking agents.

[0155] More preferably, the composition comprises one or more UV blocking agents selected from dibenzoylmethane derivatives, salicylic acid derivatives, β,β'-diphenylacrylate derivatives, triazine derivatives and phenylbenzotriazole derivatives.

[0156] According to one particularly preferred embodiment, the composition comprises one or more UV-blocking agents selected from butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene, ethylhexyl triazone, drometrizole trisiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

[0157] According to one embodiment, the amount of one or more non-encapsulated organic UV-screening agents present in the composition according to the invention may be from 0.5% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, for example from 5% to 50% by weight, or for example from 10% to 40% by weight, further for example from 15% to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0158] According to one particular embodiment, the concentration of UV-screening agent in the composition according to the invention ranges from 1% to 50% by weight, and preferably from 1% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0159] The compositions of the present invention may also include inorganic UV-blocking agents, which are generally pigments, which may be coated or uncoated.

[0160] The coated pigments are pigments which have undergone one or more surface treatments of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and / or mechanical nature, for example with the compounds described in Cosmetics & Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, pages 53-64, such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithin, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminium salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (of titanium or aluminium), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxide, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.

[0161] As is known, silicones are organosilicon polymers or oligomers of various molecular weights, including linear or cyclic, branched or crosslinked structures, which are obtained by polymerization and / or polycondensation of preferably functionalized silanes and which essentially consist of repeating main units in which silicon atoms are bonded to one another via oxygen atoms (siloxane bonds) and optionally substituted hydrocarbon-based radicals are bonded directly to the silicon atoms via carbon atoms.

[0162] The term "silicones" also includes the silanes, especially alkylsilanes, required for their preparation.

[0163] The silicones used to coat the pigments suitable for the present invention are preferably selected from the group comprising alkylsilanes, polydialkylsiloxanes and polyalkylhydrosiloxanes, even more preferably from the group comprising octyltrimethylsilane, polydimethylsiloxane and polymethylhydrosiloxane.

[0164] Of course, the metal oxide pigments may have been treated with other surface acting agents before being treated with silicone, in particular with cerium oxide, alumina, silica, aluminum compounds or silicon compounds, or mixtures thereof.

[0165] The coated pigment may be, for example, Silica-coated titanium dioxide, Ikeda's product Sunveil and Merck's product Eusolex T-Avo, Titanium dioxide coated with silica and iron oxide, specifically Ikeda's product Sunveil F; Titanium dioxide coated with silica and alumina, in particular the products Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 SA and Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 SA from Teika, Tioveil from Tioxide, and Mirasun TiW 60 from Rhodia; Titanium oxide coated with alumina, in particular the products Tipaque TTO-55(B) and Tipaque TTO-55(A) from Ishihara, and UVT 14 / 4 from Kemira; Titanium dioxide coated with alumina and aluminium stearate, in particular the products Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 TV, MT 100 TX, MT 100 Z and MT-01 from Teika and the products Solaveil CT-10 W, Solaveil CT 100 and Solaveil CT 200 from Uniqema; Titanium dioxide coated with silica, alumina and alginate, in particular the product MT-100 AQ from Teika; Titanium dioxide coated with alumina and aluminium laurate, in particular the product Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 S from Teika; Titanium dioxide coated with iron oxide and iron stearate, in particular the product Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 F from Teika; Titanium dioxide coated with zinc oxide and zinc stearate, in particular Teika's product BR351; Titanium dioxide coated with silica and alumina and treated with silicone, in particular the products Microtitanium Dioxide MT 600 SAS, Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 SAS or Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 SAS from Teika; Titanium dioxide coated with silica, alumina and aluminum stearate and treated with silicone, especially Titan Kogyo's product STT-30-DS; Titanium oxide coated with silica and treated with silicone, in particular the product UV-Titan X 195 from Kemira or the product SMT-100 WRS from Teika, Titanium oxide coated with alumina and treated with silicone, in particular the product Tipaque TTO-55(S) from Ishihara or UV Titan M 262 from Kemira; Titanium dioxide coated with triethanolamine, specifically Titan Kogyo's product STT-65-S; Titanium dioxide coated with stearic acid, specifically Ishihara's product Tipaque TTO-55(C); Titanium dioxide coated with sodium hexametaphosphate, specifically the product Microtitanium Dioxide MT 150 W from Teika It is.

[0166] Other titanium dioxide pigments treated with silicone are, for example, TiO2 treated with octyltrimethylsilane, such as the product sold under the name T 805 by the company Degussa Silices, TiO2 treated with polydimethylsiloxane, such as the product sold under the name 70250 Cardre UF TiO2SI3 by the company Cardre, anatase / rutile TiO2 treated with polydimethylhydrosiloxane, such as the product sold under the name Microtitanium Dioxide USP Grade Hydrophobic by the company Color Techniques.

[0167] Uncoated titanium oxide pigments are sold, for example, by Teika under the trade names Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 B or Microtitanium Dioxide MT 600 B, by Degussa under the name P 25, by Wackher under the name Transparent titanium oxide PW, by Miyoshi Kaseisha under the name UFTR, by Tomen under the name ITS and by Tioxide under the name Tioveil AQ.

[0168] Uncoated zinc oxide pigments are e.g. Sold by Sunsmart under the name Z-Cote; Sold under the name Nanox by Elementis, Sold by Nanophase Technologies under the name Nanogard WCD 2025 It is.

[0169] Coated zinc oxide pigments are e.g. Sold by Sunsmart under the name Z-Cote HP1 (ZnO coated with dimethicone), sold by Toshibi under the name Zinc Oxide CS-5 (ZnO coated with polymethylhydrosiloxane), Nanogard Zinc Oxide FN (Finsolv TN, i.e., alkyl benzoates (C 12 ~C 15 ) as a 40% dispersion in sold by Daito Co. under the names Daitopersion Zn-30 and Daitopersion Zn-50 (dispersions in oxyethylated polydimethylsiloxane / cyclopolymethylsiloxane containing 30% or 50% zinc oxide coated with silica and polymethylhydrosiloxane); Sold by Daikin under the name NFD Ultrafine ZnO (ZnO coated with a copolymer based on perfluoroalkyl and perfluoroalkylethyl phosphates, as a dispersion in cyclopentasiloxane), Sold by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd. under the name SPD-Z1 (ZnO coated with a silicone-grafted acrylic polymer dispersed in cyclodimethylsiloxane), Sold under the name Escalol Z100 by the company ISP (alumina treated ZnO dispersed in an ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate / PVP-hexadecene copolymer / methicone mixture), sold by Fuji Pigment Co. under the name Fuji ZnO-SMS-10 (ZnO coated with silica and polymethylsilsesquioxane); Sold under the name Nanox Gel TN by Elementis (benzoic acid C containing hydroxystearic acid polycondensate) 12 ~C 15 ZnO dispersed at 55% concentration in alkyl It is.

[0170] Uncoated cerium oxide pigments are, for example, sold under the name Colloidal Cerium Oxide.

[0171] Uncoated iron oxide pigments are sold, for example, by the company Arnaud under the names Nanogard WCD 2002 (FE 45B), Nanogard Iron FE 45 BL AQ, Nanogard FE 45R AQ and Nanogard WCD 2006 (FE 45R) or by the company Mitsubishi under the name TY-220.

[0172] Coated iron oxide pigments are sold, for example, by the company Arnaud under the names Nanogard WCD 2008 (FE 45B FN), Nanogard WCD 2009 (FE 45B 556), Nanogard FE 45 BL 345 and Nanogard FE 45 BL or by the company BASF under the name Transparent Iron Oxide.

[0173] Mention may also be made of mixtures of metal oxides, in particular mixtures of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, including the equal weight mixture of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide coated with silica, sold under the name Sunveil A by Ikeda Co., and also mixtures of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide coated with alumina, silica and silicone, such as the product M 261 sold by Kemira, or mixtures of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide coated with alumina, silica and glycerol, such as the product M 211 sold by Kemira.

[0174] The pigments may be introduced into the compositions according to the invention in their natural form or in the form of a pigment paste, ie in admixture with a dispersing agent, as described, for example, in GB 2206339.

[0175] According to one particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention does not comprise an inorganic UV-screening agent.

[0176] According to one particular embodiment, the amount of one or more inorganic UV-screening agents present in the composition according to the invention may range from 0.01% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, for example from 1% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0177] According to one particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention also comprises one or more organic UV-screening agents and one or more inorganic UV-screening agents.

[0178] According to one particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention also comprises a combination of UV-blocking agents as described in French patent application FR 2 977 490, in WO 2013 / 004777 or in US 2014 / 0134120.

[0179] Preferably, in the composition according to the invention, the one or more UV-screening agents are present entirely or partly, preferably alone, in the oily phase, preferably in the gelled oily phase.

[0180] aqueous phase The aqueous phase of a composition according to the present invention comprises water and optionally a water-soluble solvent.

[0181] Preferably, the aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention is gelled.

[0182] The aqueous phase may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 20% to 95% by weight, better still from 30% to 90% by weight, preferably from 50% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0183] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises from 35% to 70% by weight, preferably from 35% to 65% by weight, more preferably from 40% to 60% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0184] Waters suitable for use in the present invention may be floral waters, such as cornflower water, and / or mineral waters, such as Vittel water, Lucas water or La Roche Posay water, and / or thermal water.

[0185] In the present invention, the term "water-soluble solvent" refers to a compound that is liquid at ambient temperature and is water-miscible (greater than 50% by weight miscible in water at 25° C. and atmospheric pressure).

[0186] In addition, the water-soluble solvents that can be used in the compositions of the present invention can be volatile.

[0187] In particular, among the water-soluble solvents that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of lower monoalcohols having 1 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols having 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and dipropylene glycol, C3 and C4 ketones, and C2 to C4 aldehydes.

[0188] According to one preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention also comprises at least one alcohol, in particular a monoalcohol, preferably ethanol.

[0189] Preferably, in the composition according to the invention, the alcohol may be present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and preferably from 2% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0190] According to an alternative embodiment, the aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention comprises at least one C2 to C 32 It may contain a polyol.

[0191] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polyol" should be understood to mean any organic molecule that contains at least two free hydroxyl groups.

[0192] Preferably, the polyols according to the invention are in liquid form at ambient temperature.

[0193] Polyols suitable for use in the present invention may be linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alkyl type compounds carrying at least two -OH functional groups on the alkyl chain, in particular at least three -OH functional groups, more in particular at least four -OH functional groups.

[0194] The polyols which are advantageously suitable for formulating the compositions according to the invention are in particular polyols having from 2 to 32 carbon atoms, preferably having from 3 to 16 carbon atoms.

[0195] Advantageously, the polyol may be chosen, for example, from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, caprylyl glycol (1,2-octanediol), butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols, for example glycerol oligomers, for example diglycerol, and polyethylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.

[0196] According to one particular mode, the composition of the invention may comprise at least one 1,2-pentanediol.

[0197] According to one particular mode, the composition of the invention may comprise at least caprylyl glycol (1,2-octanediol).

[0198] According to a particular manner, the composition of the invention may comprise at least glycerol.

[0199] According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, the polyol is chosen from caprylyl glycol 1,2-pentanediol and glycerol, and mixtures thereof.

[0200] fat phase The composition according to the invention comprises at least one fatty phase, preferably at least one gelled fatty phase.

[0201] In particular, the composition according to the invention comprises from 5% to 80% by weight, preferably from 10% to 70% by weight and even more preferably from 15% to 40% by weight of a fatty phase relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0202] The fatty phase of the composition according to the invention may comprise an oil, a wax, a pasty compound and / or a silicone compound, preferably at least one oil.

[0203] oil The term "oil" is intended to mean a water-immiscible, non-aqueous compound that is liquid at ambient temperature (20° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

[0204] An oily phase suitable for preparing a composition, especially a cosmetic composition, according to the invention may comprise a hydrocarbon-based oil, a silicone oil, a fluoro oil or a non-fluoro oil, or a mixture thereof.

[0205] The oil can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0206] The oils may be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

[0207] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "hydrocarbon-based oil" is intended to mean an oil having mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms.

[0208] The term "silicone oil" is intended to mean an oil containing at least one silicon atom and in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0209] The term "fluorooil" is intended to mean an oil containing at least one fluorine atom.

[0210] The oil may optionally contain oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.

[0211] Volatile Oil For the purposes of the present invention, the term "volatile oil" is intended to mean any oil that, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour. Such volatile oils have a non-zero vapour pressure, in particular between 0.13 Pa and 40,000 Pa (10 -3 In particular, the term "cosmetic compound" refers to a volatile cosmetic compound that is liquid at ambient temperature, having a vapour pressure of from 1.3 Pa to 13000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), more particularly from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).

[0212] The volatile oil may be a hydrocarbon-based oil or a silicone oil.

[0213] Among volatile hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, branched C8-C 16 Alkanes, e.g., C8-C 16 Isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and oils sold, for example, under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, branched C8-C 16 Mention may be made of esters such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. In particular, the volatile hydrocarbon-based oil is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.

[0214] Also included are volatile linear alkanes containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular 10 to 15 carbon atoms, more in particular 11 to 13 carbon atoms, such as n-dodecane (C 2 ), sold by Sasol under the respective references Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97. 12 ) and n-tetradecane (C 14), as well as mixtures thereof, undecane-tridecane mixtures, n-undecane (C 11 ) and n-tridecane (C 13 ) and mixtures thereof may be mentioned.

[0215] Volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned include volatile linear silicone oils such as hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane, hexadecamethylheptasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane.

[0216] Volatile cyclic silicone oils that may be mentioned include hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and especially cyclohexasiloxane.

[0217] Non-volatile oil The term "non-volatile" means a substance that has a vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure that is greater than or equal to zero and less than 10 -3 It is intended to mean oils that have a viscosity of less than mmHg (0.13 Pa).

[0218] The non-volatile oils may especially be chosen from non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, fluoro oils and / or silicone oils.

[0219] Non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may be mentioned in particular are: Hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, Hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin; synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicapryl ether; Synthetic esters, for example oils of formula R1COOR2, where R1 represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, especially branched, having 1 to 40 carbon atoms, with the proviso that R1+R2 is 10 or more. The esters may in particular be chosen from esters of alcohols and fatty acids, such as cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl alcohol esters, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, ricinoleic acid esters of alcohols or polyhydric alcohols, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters, such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, and isononanoic acid esters, such as isononyl isononanoate and isotridecyl isononanoate, Polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, such as dipentaerythrityl tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate, Fatty alcohols which have a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms and which are liquid at ambient temperature, such as 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol and oleyl alcohol; C 12 ~C 22 Higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof; Carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate, Non-phenyl silicone oils, such as caprylyl methicone, Phenyl silicone oils, such as phenyl trimethicone, phenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxane, diphenyl dimethicone, diphenyl methyl diphenyl trisiloxane and 2-phenylethyl trimethyl siloxy silicate, dimethicone or phenyl trimethicone having a viscosity of 100 cSt or less, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane, and mixtures thereof; As well as mixtures of these various oils Includes:

[0220] In particular, the composition may also comprise at least one non-volatile oil, especially chosen from non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oils, non-volatile ester oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0221] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "non-polar oil" refers to an oil having a solubility parameter at 25° C., i.e., δ a , 0 (J / cm 3 ) 1 / 2 This means oil equivalent to

[0222] The definition and calculation of solubility parameters in the Hansen three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by C. M. Hansen: "The three dimensional solubility parameters", J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967).

[0223] According to this Hansen space, δ D characterized the London dispersion forces derived from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular collisions, δ p characterizes the Debye interaction force between permanent dipoles and the Keesom interaction force between induced and permanent dipoles, δ h characterizes a particular interaction force (e.g., hydrogen bond, acid / base, donor / acceptor, etc.) δ a is the equation δ a =(δ p 2 +δ h 2 ) 1 / 2 is determined by.

[0224] The parameter δ p , δ h , δ D and δ a is (J / cm 3 ) 1 / 2 It is expressed as:

[0225] In particular, the non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon-based oil does not contain oxygen atoms.

[0226] Preferably, the non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oil may be chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin. In particular, the oil may be Liquid paraffin or its derivatives, Squalane, Liquid Vaseline, Naphthalene oil, Polybutylene, in particular Indopol H-100 (molar mass or M W = 965 g / mol), Indopol H-300 (M W = 1340 g / mol) and Indopol H-1500 (M W = 2160 g / mol), Polyisobutene and hydrogenated polyisobutene, in particular Parleam® sold by Nippon Oil & Fats Corporation, Panalane H-300 E (M) sold or manufactured by Amoco, W = 1340 g / mol), Viseal 20000 (M W = 6000 g / mol) and Rewopal PIB 1000 (M W = 1000 g / mol), decene / butene copolymers and polybutene / polyisobutene copolymers, especially Indopol L-14; Polydecene and hydrogenated polydecenes, in particular Puresyn 10 (M), sold or manufactured by Mobil Chemicals. W = 723 g / mol) and Puresyn 150 (M W = 9200 g / mol), and mixtures thereof can be selected from:

[0227] The non-volatile oil may also be an ester oil, especially having from 18 to 70 carbon atoms.

[0228] Examples that may be mentioned include monoesters, diesters or triesters.

[0229] The ester oil may in particular be hydroxylated.

[0230] The non-volatile ester oil is preferably Monoesters containing a total of 18 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular monoesters of the formula R1COOR2, where R1 represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, in particular branched, having 4 to 40 carbon atoms, with the proviso that R1+R2 is 18 or more, such as, for example, Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, C benzoate 12 ~C 15 Alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, octanoic acid esters, decanoic acid esters or ricinoleic acid esters of alcohols or polyhydric alcohols, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate or 2-diethylhexyl succinate. Preferably, these are esters of formula R1COOR2, in which R1 represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, especially branched, having from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, and R1 and R2 are such that R1+R2 is greater than or equal to 18. Preferably, the esters contain a total of 18 to 40 carbon atoms. Preferred monoesters that may be mentioned include isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate and / or octyldodecyl 2-neopentanoate, In particular diesters containing a total of 18 to 60 carbon atoms, in particular a total of 18 to 50 carbon atoms. In particular it is possible to use diesters of dicarboxylic acids with monoalcohols, preferably for example diisostearyl malate, or glycol diesters of monocarboxylic acids, such as neopentyl glycol diheptanoate or polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, in particular the compounds sold under the reference Dermol DGDIS by the company Alzo, Triesters, in particular those containing a total of 35 to 70 carbon atoms, in particular, for example, triesters of tricarboxylic acids, such as, for example, triisostearyl citrate or tridecyl trimellitate, or glycol triesters of monocarboxylic acids, such as, for example, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate; In particular, tetraesters having a total carbon number of 35 to 70, such as pentaerythritol or polyglycerol tetraesters of monocarboxylic acids, such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, glyceryl tris(2-decyl)tetradecanoate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate or pentaerythrityl tetrakis(2-decyl)tetradecanoate; Polyesters obtained by condensation of unsaturated fatty acid dimers and / or trimers with diols, such as those described in FR-A-0 853 634, in particular, for example, polyesters obtained by condensation of dilinoleic acid with 1,4-butanediol. In this respect, mention may be made, inter alia, of the polymer sold by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer), or of copolymers of polyols and diacid dimers and their esters, such as, for example, Hailuscent ISDA, Esters and polyesters of diol dimers with mono- or dicarboxylic acids, such as, in particular, unsaturated fatty acids, especially unsaturated C8-C 34 , especially C 12 ~C 22 , especially C 16 ~C 20, more particularly C 18 esters of diol dimers with fatty acids and of diol dimers with dicarboxylic acid dimers, which may be obtained in particular from dicarboxylic acid dimers derived from the dimerization of fatty acids, such as the esters of dilinoleic diacids and dilinoleic diol dimers, such as those sold under the names Lusplan DD-DA5™ and DD-DA7™ by Nippon Fine Chemical Co., Ltd.; Vinylpyrrolidone / 1-hexadecene copolymers, such as the product sold under the name Antaron V-216 by the company ISP (also known as Ganex V216) (M W = 7300 g / mol), Hydrocarbon vegetable oils, such as fatty acid triglycerides (liquid at ambient temperature), especially of fatty acids having 7 to 40 carbon atoms, such as heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides or jojoba oil, especially saturated triglycerides, such as caprylic / capric triglyceride, glyceryl triheptanoate, glyceryl trioctanoate, and C 18 ~C 36 Mention may be made of acid triglycerides, such as those sold under the reference DUB TGI 24 by Stearinerie Dubois, and unsaturated triglycerides, such as castor oil, olive oil, ximenia oil and prakash oil. and mixtures thereof can be selected from:

[0231] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a non-volatile oil, in particular a non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, more preferably dicapryl ether.

[0232] Silicone Compounds According to the invention, the fatty phase may also comprise at least one silicone compound.

[0233] In particular, the silicone compound may be chosen from organopolysiloxane elastomers.

[0234] The term "organopolysiloxane elastomer" or "silicone elastomer" is intended to mean a flexible, deformable organopolysiloxane that has viscoelastic properties, in particular the consistency of a sponge or a flexible sphere. Its modulus of elasticity is such that the material resists deformation and has limited extensibility and contraction. The material is able to recover its original shape after being stretched.

[0235] The silicone compound is more particularly an organopolysiloxane elastomer which is crosslinked.

[0236] The elastomer is advantageously a non-emulsifying elastomer.

[0237] The term "non-emulsifying" defines an organopolysiloxane elastomer that does not have any hydrophilic chains, in particular does not have any polyoxyalkylene units (especially polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene) or polyglyceryl units. Thus, according to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises an organopolysiloxane elastomer that does not contain any polyoxyalkylene or polyglyceryl units.

[0238] In particular, the silicone elastomer used in the present invention is selected from Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name) and Dimethicone Crosspolymer-3 (INCI name).

[0239] The organopolysiloxane elastomer particles may be delivered in the form of a gel formed from an elastomeric organopolysiloxane contained in at least one hydrocarbon oil and / or one silicone oil. In these gels, the organopolysiloxane particles are often non-spherical particles.

[0240] Non-emulsifying elastomers are described, inter alia, in EP 242219, EP 285886 and EP 765656 and in JP-A-61194009.

[0241] The silicone elastomer is generally in the form of a gel, a paste or a powder, but advantageously in the form of a gel in which it is dispersed in a linear silicone oil (dimethicone) or a cyclic silicone oil (e.g. cyclopentasiloxane), advantageously in a linear silicone oil.

[0242] Non-emulsifying elastomers which may be used include more particularly those sold under the names KSG-6, KSG-15, KSG-16, KSG-18, KSG-41, KSG-42, KSG-43 and KSG-44 by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd., DC9040 and DC9041 by Dow Corning and SFE 839 by General Electric.

[0243] According to a particular mode, a gel of a silicone elastomer dispersed in a silicone oil selected from a non-exhaustive list including cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, dimethicone, dimethylsiloxane, methyltrimethicone, phenylmethicone, phenyldimethicone, phenyltrimethicone and cyclomethicone, preferably a linear silicone oil selected from polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) or dimethicone, having a viscosity of 1-500 cSt at 25° C. and optionally modified with aliphatic groups, optionally fluorinated, or with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups, is used.

[0244] Particular mention may be made of compounds having the following INCI names: Dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymers, such as USG-105 and USG-107A from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd., DC9506 and DC9701 from Dow Corning; Dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer (and) dimethicone, e.g., KSG-6 and KSG-16 from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.; Dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer (and) cyclopentasiloxane, e.g., KSG-15, Cyclopentasiloxane (and) dimethicone crosspolymers, such as DC9040, DC9045, and DC5930 from Dow Corning; Dimethicone (and) dimethicone crosspolymers, e.g., DC9041 from Dow Corning; Dimethicone (and) dimethicone crosspolymers, such as Dow Corning EL-9240™ silicone elastomer blend (a mixture of polydimethylsiloxane (2 cSt) crosslinked with hexadiene / polydimethylsiloxane); C4~C 24 Alkyl dimethicone / divinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, such as NuLastic Silk MA by Alzo.

[0245] As examples of silicone elastomers dispersed in linear silicone oils that can preferably be used according to the invention, mention may be made, inter alia, of dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymers (and) dimethicones, in particular KSG-6 and KSG-16 from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.

[0246] The organopolysiloxane elastomer particles can also be used in powder form. Mention may be made, inter alia, of the powders sold by the company Dow Corning under the names Dow Corning 9505 Powder and Dow Corning 9506 Powder, which have the INCI name: Dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer.

[0247] The organopolysiloxane powders may also be coated with silsesquioxane resins, for example as described in US Patent No. 5,538,793. Such elastomeric powders are sold by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd. under the names KSP-100, KSP-101, KSP-102, KSP-103, KSP-104 and KSP-105, and have the INCI name: Vinyl Dimethicone / Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer.

[0248] Adjuvants Filler Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more fillers, especially chosen from those conventionally used in care and / or makeup compositions.

[0249] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "filler" is intended to mean solid particles of any form, colorless or white, inorganic or organic, natural or synthetic, which are in a form that is insoluble and dispersed in the medium of the composition.

[0250] Naturally, these fillers are used in appropriate amounts and under appropriate conditions so as not to be detrimental to the properties of the composition.

[0251] These fillers make it possible to impart flexibility, a mattifying effect and uniformity to the compositions in which they are contained, and in addition, they advantageously make it possible to combat various attacking agents such as sebum or sweat.

[0252] As examples of these fillers, mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, poly-β-alanine powder and polyethylene powder, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powder (Teflon®), lauroyl lysine, starch, boron nitride, hollow polymer microspheres, such as polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile, for example Expancel® (Nobel Industrie), acrylic acid copolymer microspheres, silicone resin microbeads (for example Tospearls® from Toshiba), polyorganosiloxane elastomer particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite, barium sulfate, aluminum oxide, polyurethane powder, composite fillers, hollow silica microspheres, and glass or ceramic microcapsules. Also, particles in the form of hollow sphere segments, as described in JP-A-2003-128788 and JP-A-2000-191789, may be used.

[0253] Coloring agent The composition according to the invention may also contain at least one particulate or non-particulate, water-soluble or water-insoluble colorant, preferably in a proportion of at least 0.0001% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0254] This amount may, for obvious reasons, vary significantly with respect to the strength and color intensity of the desired color effect imparted by the colorant under consideration, the adjustment of which is clearly within the competence of a person skilled in the art.

[0255] As mentioned above, the colorants suitable for use in the present invention can be water-soluble, but can also be oil-soluble.

[0256] water soluble dye For purposes of the present invention, the term "water-soluble colorant" is intended to mean any natural or synthetic, generally organic compound, that is soluble in an aqueous phase or a water-miscible solvent and is capable of imparting color.

[0257] As water-soluble dyes suitable for use in the present invention, mention may be made in particular of synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes, such as FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1, betanin (beet root), carmine, copper chlorophyllin, methylene blue, anthocyanins (enocyanin, black carrot, hibiscus and elderberry), caramel and riboflavin.

[0258] Such water-soluble dyes are, for example, beetroot juice and caramel.

[0259] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one water-soluble dye.

[0260] The water-soluble dye may be present in a proportion of from 0.0001% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition containing the water-soluble dye.

[0261] fat soluble dye For the purposes of the present invention, the term "liposoluble colorant" is intended to mean any natural or synthetic, generally organic compound, which is soluble in an oily phase or in a solvent miscible with fatty substances and which is capable of imparting color.

[0262] As liposoluble dyes suitable for use in the present invention, mention may be made in particular of synthetic or natural liposoluble dyes, such as DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan Red, carotenes (β-carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan Brown, quinoline yellow, annatto and curcumin.

[0263] The coloured particulate material may be present in a proportion of from 0.0001% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition including the coloured particulate material.

[0264] The coloured particulate material may in particular be particles having a pigment, mother of pearl and / or metallic colour.

[0265] Pigments The term "pigments" should be understood to mean white or colored, inorganic or organic particles, insoluble in aqueous solutions, which are intended to color and / or opacify the composition in which they are contained.

[0266] The pigments can be white or colored and can be inorganic and / or organic.

[0267] As inorganic pigments, mention may be made of titanium oxide, titanium dioxide, zirconium oxide, zirconium dioxide, cerium oxide or cerium dioxide and zinc oxide, iron oxide or chromium oxide, Prussian blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and chromium hydrate, and mixtures thereof.

[0268] The pigment may also be a pigment having a structure which may be, for example, of the sericite / brown iron oxide / titanium dioxide / silica type. Such a pigment is, for example, sold under the reference Coverleaf NS or JS by the company Chemicals and Catalysts and has a contrast ratio in the region of 30.

[0269] The pigment may also be a pigment with a structure that may be, for example, of the silica microsphere type containing iron oxide.An example of a pigment with this structure is the pigment sold by Miyoshi Co. Ltd. under the reference PC Ball PC-LL-100 P, which is composed of silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide.

[0270] Advantageously, the pigments may be iron oxide and / or titanium dioxide.

[0271] According to one particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention contains less than 1% of pigments.

[0272] nacre The term "nacre" should be understood to mean colored particles of any shape, which have a color effect through optical interference, which may be iridescent or non-iridescent, especially produced by certain mollusks in their shells, or alternatively synthesized.

[0273] The nacre can be selected from pearlescent pigments, such as iron oxide-coated titanic mica, bismuth oxychloride-coated titanic mica, chromium oxide-coated titanic mica, organic dye-coated titanic mica, and bismuth oxychloride-based pearlescent pigments. The nacre can also be a mica particle, the surface of which is superimposed with at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic colorants.

[0274] Examples of nacre that may also be mentioned include natural mica coated with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigments or with bismuth oxychloride.

[0275] Among commercially available nacres, mention may be made of Timica, Flamenco and Duochrome (mica-based) nacres sold by Engelhard, Timiron nacres sold by Merck, mica-based Prestige nacres sold by Eckart, and synthetic mica-based Sunshine nacres sold by Sun Chemical.

[0276] The nacre may have a color or shade such as, more particularly, yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or copper.

[0277] Advantageously, the nacre according to the invention is a mica coated with titanium dioxide or iron oxide, and with bismuth oxychloride.

[0278] According to one particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 1% by weight of nacre.

[0279] Particles with metallic hues For the purposes of the present invention, the term "particles having a metallic hue" means any compound whose nature, size, structure and surface finish make it possible to reflect incident light in a particularly non-iridescent manner.

[0280] The particles having a metallic hue that can be used in the present invention are in particular chosen from particles of at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative, particles comprising an organic or inorganic substrate, made of a single material or of multiple materials, at least partially coated with at least one layer having a metallic hue comprising at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative, and mixtures of the abovementioned particles.

[0281] Among the metals that may be present in the particles, mention may be made, for example, of Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te, Se, and mixtures or alloys thereof. Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo and Cr, and mixtures or alloys thereof (for example bronze and brass), are preferred metals.

[0282] The term "metal derivatives" refers to compounds derived from metals, particularly the oxides, fluorides, chlorides and sulfides.

[0283] Examples of these particles that may be mentioned include aluminum particles, such as those sold under the name Starbrite 1200 EAC™ by the company Siberline and under the name Metalure™ by the company Eckart, and glass particles coated with a metal layer, especially those described in JP-A-09-188830, JP-A-10-158450, JP-A-10-158541, JP-A-07-258460 and JP-A-05-017710.

[0284] According to one particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises particles with a metallic hue of less than 1%.

[0285] Hydrophobic treatment of colorants The powder colorants already described can be totally or partially surface-treated with hydrophobic agents, in particular to have good wetting with oil, to make them more compatible with the oil phase of the composition of the present invention. These treated pigments are therefore well dispersed in the oil phase. Hydrophobically treated pigments are in particular described in EP 1086683.

[0286] The hydrophobic treatment may be selected from silicones such as methicone, dimethicone and perfluoroalkyl silanes; fatty acids such as stearic acid; metal soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate; perfluoroalkyl phosphates; polyhexafluoropropylene oxide; perfluoropolyethers; amino acids; N-acyl amino acids or salts thereof; lecithin, isopropyl triisostearyl titanate, isostearyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

[0287] The term "alkyl" referred to in the above cited compounds denotes in particular alkyl groups having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably having from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.

[0288] Further cosmetic active agents According to one preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention also comprises at least one further cosmetic active agent.

[0289] In particular, the further cosmetic active agent may be at least one hydrophilic active agent and / or one lipophilic active agent.

[0290] The term "hydrophilic active" is intended to mean a water-soluble or water-dispersible active capable of forming hydrogen bonds.

[0291] As cosmetic active agents there may be mentioned, for example, moisturizers, preferably glycerol, depigmenting agents, desquamating agents, humectants, anti-ageing agents, mattifying agents, cicatrizing agents, antibacterial agents, healing agents, preferably panthenol, vitamins and their derivatives, preferably tocopherol, antioxidant compounds, and mixtures thereof.

[0292] The one or more further active agents may, inter alia, be Vitamins and their derivatives, especially their esters, in particular tocopherol (vitamin E) and its esters (e.g. tocopherol acetate), and ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and its derivatives; Moisturizing agents, in particular urea, hydroxyurea, glycerol, polyglycerin, glyceryl glucoside, diglyceryl glucoside, polyglyceryl glucoside and xylityl glucoside, in particular glycerol; C-glycoside compounds, Antioxidant compounds, Anti-ageing active agents, in particular hyaluronic acid compounds, especially sodium hyaluronate, retinol and its derivatives, salicylic acid compounds, in particular 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid (capryloylsalicylic acid), caffeine, adenosine, c-β-d-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, and the sodium salt of (3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentyl)acetic acid, Skin care agents, in particular allantoin, panthenol and protein hydrolysates, Veinotonics, in particular polyphenols, in particular escin, ruscus, diosmin, hesperidin, resveratrol, and A mixture of them can be selected from:

[0293] The compositions according to the invention may contain at least one moisturizer (also known as a humectant).

[0294] Preferably, the moisturizer is glycerol.

[0295] According to one preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention also comprises at least one further cosmetic active agent, more preferably at least one anti-ageing active agent, preferably hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof, more preferably sodium hyaluronate.

[0296] The compositions according to the invention may also comprise at least one additive chosen from adjuvants conventionally used in the cosmetic field, such as preservatives, in particular phenoxyethanol, fragrances, polar additives, film-forming polymers, further gelling agents, pH regulators (acids or bases), dispersants, cosmetic active agents, such as scar-forming agents, agents to combat oily skin and / or anti-staining agents, and mixtures thereof.

[0297] Of course, one skilled in the art will be careful to select this or these optional further compounds and / or the amounts thereof such that the advantageous properties of the compositions according to the invention are not or substantially not adversely affected by the envisaged addition.

[0298] composition According to the invention, the composition can be characterized before or after its application to the keratinous material. In other words, the appearance of the composition according to the invention can be different before its application to the keratinous material, i.e. in its packaging / packaging, or after its application to the keratinous material, i.e. immediately after it has been applied to the keratinous material, in particular the skin.

[0299] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is colored before application. In other words, the composition according to the invention is preferably colored in its packaging / packaging. Preferably, the composition according to the invention before application is blue in color.

[0300] For purposes of the present invention, a composition is said to be "colored" if it appears to the human eye to have a color in the visible spectrum, especially a color that is different from white. Such compositions may be opaque or transparent / translucent.

[0301] According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is white before application, in other words, the composition according to the invention is preferably white in its packaging / packaging.

[0302] According to one particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is transparent / translucent before application, in other words, the composition according to the invention is preferably transparent / translucent in its packaging / packaging and / or before it is removed from its packaging and spread.

[0303] According to one preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is colourless after application to keratinous materials.

[0304] Clarity / transmittance is measured using a Turbiscan™ Lab analytical instrument from Formulaction. * It can be assessed by measuring the mean free path of photons, which is expressed in mm. The higher this value, the more transparent the composition.

[0305] Thus, the composition according to the invention preferably has a mean photon step length of between 0.5 mm and 10 mm, preferably between 2 and 10 mm.

[0306] Preferably, whether the composition is opaque or transparent / translucent, colored or colorless prior to application, the composition is transparent or translucent when applied to keratinous materials, in particular the skin.

[0307] Therefore, the composition according to the present invention becomes transparent or translucent as soon as it is applied to keratinous material.The transparency or permeability of the composition can also be visually assessed.For example, the composition applied to the skin, for example with a thickness of 150 μm, is found to be transparent, i.e. to make the keratinous material, particularly the skin, visible.

[0308] The transparency upon application can also be assessed by depositing a 150 μm thick film on a polyester transparent film and measuring its transmittance using a BYK-Gardner Hazegard instrument, following a typical in vitro protocol: the higher the value, the more transparent the composition.

[0309] Thus, the composition according to the invention preferably has a transmittance of more than 70%, preferably more than 85%.

[0310] The compositions according to the invention may be in the form of an emulsion, such as an oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion, a gel, such as an emulsified oil-in-water or water-in-oil gel, or in the form of a gel / gel type composition.

[0311] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is of the gel / gel type.

[0312] Thus, according to this embodiment, the composition according to the invention is different from an emulsion or an emulsified gel.

[0313] Emulsions are generally composed of an oily liquid phase and an aqueous liquid phase. They are dispersions in which droplets of one of the two liquid phases are dispersed in the other. The size of the droplets forming the dispersed phase of the emulsion is typically on the order of micrometers (0.1-100 μm). Furthermore, emulsions require the presence of surfactants or emulsifiers to ensure their stability over time.

[0314] Conversely, a gel / gel-type composition is composed of a mixture of two gelled immiscible phases, both of which have a gel-type texture, which is visually reflected, inter alia, in a consistent and / or creamy appearance.

[0315] More specifically, in gel / gel type compositions, the gelled aqueous phase and the gelled oily phase interpenetrate and thus form a product of stable consistency. This consistency is achieved by mixing interpenetrated macrodomains. These interpenetrated macrodomains are non-measurable objects. Thus, the gel / gel type compositions are very different from emulsions under the microscope. Gel / gel type compositions also cannot be characterized as having a "sense", i.e., an O / W or W / O feel.

[0316] Thus, the gel / gel type composition has a gel type consistency. The stability of the composition is long-lasting without surfactants. As a result, the gel / gel type composition, especially the cosmetic composition, does not require any surfactants or silicone emulsifiers to ensure its stability over time.

[0317] For example, it is a known practice from the prior art to observe the inherent nature of the mixture of aqueous gel and oily gel in a gel-gel type composition by introducing a colorant into either the gelled aqueous phase or the gelled lipophilic phase before the formation of the gel-gel type composition. During visual inspection in a gel-gel type composition, the colorant appears to be uniformly dispersed even if the dye is present only in the gelled aqueous phase or only in the gelled oily phase. Specifically, if two different dyes of different colors are introduced into the oily phase and the aqueous phase, respectively, before the formation of the gel-gel type composition, the two colors can be observed to be uniformly dispersed in the gel-gel type composition. This is different from an emulsion in which, if a water-soluble or oil-soluble dye is introduced into the aqueous phase and the oily phase, respectively, before the formation of the emulsion, only the color of the dye present in the outer phase will be observed (Remington: The Science and Practice of Pharmacy, 19th Edition (1995), Chapter 21, page 282).

[0318] In the present invention, the preferred test to distinguish between gel-gel type compositions and emulsions is the dilution test. Specifically, in gel-gel type compositions, the gelled aqueous and oily domains penetrate each other to form a viscous and stable composition in which the behavior of water and oil is different from that of emulsions. As a result, the behavior during dilution of gel type compositions (bi-continuous systems) can be compared to that of emulsions.

[0319] More specifically, the dilution test consists in placing 40g of product and 160g of dilution solvent (water or oil) in a 500ml plastic beaker. The dilution is carried out with controlled stirring to avoid any emulsification. In particular, this is carried out using a planetary mixer: Speed ​​Mixer™ DAC400FVZ. The speed of the mixer is set at 1500 rpm for 4 minutes. Finally, the observation of the resulting sample is carried out using an optical microscope at a magnification of 100 times (10x10 times). It can be noted that oils, such as Parleam™ and Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 5CS™ sold by Dow Corning, are suitable as dilution solvents, as well as one of the oils contained in the composition.

[0320] In the case of gel-gel type compositions (bicontinuous systems), when they are diluted with oil or water, a non-uniform appearance is always observed. When a gel-gel type composition (bicontinuous systems) is diluted with water, small pieces of oily gel in suspension are observed, and when a gel-gel type composition (bicontinuous systems) is diluted with oil, small pieces of aqueous gel in suspension are observed.

[0321] In contrast, emulsions behave differently during dilution. When an O / W emulsion is diluted with an aqueous solvent, the emulsion thins out gradually without a heterogeneous and lumpy appearance. When this same O / W emulsion is diluted with oil, it has a heterogeneous appearance (small pieces of O / W emulsion are suspended in the oil). When a W / O emulsion is diluted with an aqueous solvent, it has a heterogeneous appearance (small pieces of W / O emulsion are suspended in water). When this same W / O emulsion is diluted with oil, it thins out gradually without a heterogeneous and lumpy appearance.

[0322] Another test that may be preferred, particularly to distinguish between gels / gel-type compositions and emulsions or emulsified gels, is testing with a laser scanning confocal microscope.

[0323] More specifically, the labeling of the composition is carried out by diffusion. For example, starting from fluorescein salt (Sigma Aldrich) on the one hand, solubilized in water at a rate of [0.1M] and with gentle stirring at ambient temperature, and Nile Red (ThermoFisher) on the other hand, solubilized in a homosalate, octocrylene, ethylhexyl salicylate mixture [1:0.7:0.5] at a rate of 240 ppm and with gentle stirring at ambient temperature, 5 μl of each of the florochrome solutions are added to 1.5 ml of each of the compositions to be tested. The entire mixture is carefully mixed manually using a spatula and then left to diffuse for a minimum of 3 hours at ambient temperature. After diffusion of the fluorescent dye solution, each sample is placed between two microscope cover slips (170 μm thick) separated by a spacer of 250 μm. A laser scanning confocal microscope (TC SP8, Leica Microsystems) was used for the observation. F-abs max = 515 nm) and Nile Red (λ P-abs maxTwo lasers (argon-λ = 620 nm) were used to excite the Ar = 488 nm and He / Ne-λ He / Ne = 561 nm) are used. Two PMT (photomultiplier tube) detectors are used, each with a bandwidth of Δλ F-em = 506 ~ 546 nm and Δλ B-em The laser is configured to recover a fluorescence emission signal between 650 and 710 nm. Images are acquired in sequential mode, i.e. by alternating excitation and emission of the sample with two lasers. The hydrophilic and lipophilic phases resulting from the fluorescence emission of the fluorescein or the Nile Red appear in clearly different colors. Microscopic observation of the compositions of gel / gel type shows a two-phase structure comprising a dispersion of lipophilic or hydrophilic domains that do not have a specific or stereotyped morphology (first color) in a hydrophilic or lipophilic continuous phase (second color). Microscopic observation of the compositions of emulsion type shows a dispersion of lipophilic or hydrophilic spherical objects, in other words a dispersion of droplets (first color) dispersed in a hydrophilic or lipophilic continuous matrix (second color). Microscopic observation of the compositions of emulsified aqueous gel type shows a single hydrophilic continuous phase (one color).

[0324] In particular, the composition according to the invention comprises said aqueous phase and oily phase in an aqueous phase / oily phase weight ratio of between 30 / 70 and 90 / 10, preferably between 60 / 40 and 80 / 20.

[0325] The ratio between the two phases is adjusted according to the desired cosmetic properties.

[0326] It will therefore be advantageous, particularly in the case of care compositions for the face, to choose an aqueous phase / oily phase weight ratio of greater than 1, in particular between 65 / 35 and 80 / 20, preferably between 70 / 30 and 80 / 20.

[0327] These preferred ratios are particularly advantageous for obtaining refreshing, light compositions.

[0328] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention can therefore be in the form of a creamy gel, having a minimal stress below which it does not flow, unless exposed to an external mechanical stress.

[0329] As will become apparent from the remainder of the specification, the composition according to the invention may have a minimum threshold stress of 1.5 Pa, in particular of more than 10 Pa.

[0330] The composition according to the invention also advantageously has a modulus of rigidity G at least equal to 400 Pa, preferably greater than 1000 Pa. * may have.

[0331] According to an advantageous embodiment variant, the phases considered for forming the composition according to the invention may each have a threshold stress of more than 1.5 Pa, preferably more than 10 Pa.

[0332] The characterization of the limit stress is performed by oscillatory rheology measurements, the methodology being proposed in the exemplary chapter of the present text.

[0333] Typically, the corresponding measurements are carried out at 25° C. using a controlled Haake RS600 stress rheometer equipped with a cone-plate measuring body (diameter 60 mm). For each measurement, the sample is carefully placed in position and the measurement is started 5 minutes after placing the sample (2 mm) in the jaws. The test composition is then subjected to a 10 -2 ~10 3 The specimen is subjected to a stress gradient of 1 Pa.

[0334] The composition according to the invention may also have a certain elasticity, which is the modulus of rigidity G, which may be at least equal to 100 Pa and preferably greater than 400 Pa, under this minimum stress limit. * The value G of the composition can be characterized by * The composition under consideration is heated at a set frequency of 1 Hz for 10 -2 ~10 3 This can be obtained by subjecting the device to a stress gradient of 10 Pa.

[0335] Intended Use of the Composition The compositions according to the invention, especially the cosmetic compositions, comprise a physiologically acceptable medium.

[0336] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "physiologically acceptable medium" is intended to indicate a medium that is suitable for topical administration of a composition.

[0337] A physiologically acceptable medium generally has no unpleasant odor or appearance and is completely compatible with topical administration. In the case of the present invention, where the composition is intended for topical administration, i.e. by application to the surface of the keratinous material under consideration, such a medium is considered physiologically acceptable, in particular if it does not cause unacceptable stinging, stiffness or redness to the user.

[0338] In particular, the composition is suitable for topical application, i.e. application to the skin surface, scalp and / or mucous membranes considered.The physiologically acceptable medium is therefore preferably a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable medium, i.e. a medium that does not have an unpleasant odor, color or appearance and does not cause stinging, stiffness or redness that is unacceptable to the user.

[0339] The compositions according to the invention may be more or less fluid and may have the appearance of a cream, ointment, milk, lotion, serum, paste or foam, white or colored, preferably colored. The compositions according to the invention may optionally be applied to the skin in aerosol form. The compositions according to the invention may also be in solid form, for example in the form of a stick.

[0340] The compositions according to the invention may be in the form of a cosmetic composition for caring for and / or making up keratinous materials, preferably a cosmetic composition for caring for keratinous materials, in particular of the body or the face, preferably the face.

[0341] The compositions according to the invention may be in the form of a product for caring for the skin or semi-mucous membranes, for example a protective or cosmetic care composition for the face, lips, hands, feet, anatomical folds or body (for example a day cream, a night cream, a day serum, a night serum, a make-up removal cream, a make-up base, a sunscreen composition, a protective or caring body milk, an after-sun milk, a skin care or scalp care lotion, a gel or foam, a serum, a mask or an aftershave composition).

[0342] The cosmetic compositions according to the invention can be used, for example, as care products and / or sun protection products for the face and / or body, of liquid to semi-liquid consistency, such as lotions, milks, more or less thick creams, gels and cream-gels. The cosmetic compositions according to the invention can optionally be packaged in aerosol form and can be in the form of a mousse or spray.

[0343] The composition may be applied to the skin by hand or using an applicator.

[0344] Such compositions are in particular prepared according to the general knowledge of the person skilled in the art.

[0345] The compositions according to the invention in the form of evaporable fluid lotions according to the invention are applied in the form of fine particles to the skin or hair by using pressurized or non-pressurized vaporizing devices. Devices according to the invention are well known to those skilled in the art and include non-aerosol pumps or "atomizers", aerosol containers containing a propellant, and aerosol pumps using compressed air as a propellant. The latter are described in US Pat. Nos. 4,077,441 and 4,850,517 (forming an integral part of the content of said description).

[0346] The compositions packaged in aerosol form according to the invention generally contain a customary propellant, such as hydrofluorocompounds, dichlorodifluoromethane, difluoroethane, dimethyl ether, isobutane, n-butane, propane or trichlorofluoromethane, which is preferably present in an amount of 15% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0347] Such compositions as already defined may in particular be used for cosmetic use according to the invention.

[0348] The present invention therefore also relates to the use of a composition according to the invention for caring for and / or making up keratinous materials, preferably for caring for keratinous materials of the body and / or face, in particular the skin.

[0349] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for making up and / or caring for keratinous materials, in particular the skin, comprising at least one step of applying a composition as previously defined to said keratinous materials.

[0350] Preferably, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for caring for keratinous materials, in particular the skin, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratinous materials as defined above.

[0351] The cosmetic methods for making up and / or caring for keratinous materials, in particular the skin, are non-therapeutic.

[0352] In particular, the invention relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a composition as described above for protecting the skin and / or lips and / or hair against solar radiation.

[0353] The present invention also relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a composition as defined above for combating or preventing the signs of premature photoinduced ageing of the skin and / or lips and / or hair.

[0354] According to one embodiment, the present invention also relates to the use of a composition according to the invention for reducing pigmentation induced by long-wave UVA rays and / or by exposure to DUV rays (daily exposure UV or daily UV rays).

[0355] The present invention also relates to the cosmetic use of a composition as defined above for preventing skin darkening and / or for improving the colour and / or evenness of the complexion.

[0356] In addition, the present invention relates to the cosmetic use of a composition as defined above for preventing the signs of premature ageing of the skin, in particular of the face, neckline, arms, hands and / or shoulders, and in particular of skin ageing of actinic origin, such as photoageing.

[0357] The present invention also relates to the cosmetic use of a composition as defined above for preventing loss of skin firmness and / or elasticity and / or tonicity and / or suppleness, the formation of wrinkles and fine lines, a dull complexion and / or a shriveled appearance of the skin.

[0358] The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for protecting the skin and / or lips and / or hair against solar radiation, which comprises applying to the surface of said keratinous materials at least one composition according to the invention.

[0359] The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for preventing and / or treating the signs of ageing of keratinous materials, comprising applying to the surface of said keratinous materials at least one composition according to the invention.

[0360] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "prevent" is understood to mean at least partially reducing the risk of the occurrence of a given phenomenon.

[0361] Throughout this description, including the claims, the expression "comprising a" should be understood to be synonymous with "comprising at least one," unless otherwise specified.

[0362] The expressions "between ... and ...", "comprises from ... to ...", "formed from ... to ..." and "ranging from ... to ..." are to be understood as including both ends of the limits, unless otherwise specified.

[0363] The present invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples presented below. Unless otherwise specified, the amounts given are expressed as mass percentages. EXAMPLES

[0364] Measurement method In the detailed examples below, the following measurement methods are used.

[0365] Methodology for oscillatory dynamic rheology measurements. These are harmonic-regime rheological measurements for measuring the elastic modulus.

[0366] The measurements are carried out at 25° C. using a Haake RS600 rheometer with a plate-plate rotor of 60 mm diameter and a gap of 2 mm on a stationary product.

[0367] The harmonic regime measurement makes it possible to characterize the viscoelastic properties of the product. The technique consists in subjecting a material to a stress that varies sinusoidally over time and measuring the response of the material to this stress. In the range in which the behavior is linear viscoelastic (the zone in which the strain is proportional to the stress), the stress (τ) and the strain (γ) are two sine functions of time, written in the following manner: τ(t)=τ0sin(ωt) and γ(t)=γ0sin(ωt+δ), where τ0 represents the maximum amplitude of the stress (Pa), γ0 represents the maximum amplitude of the strain (-), ω=2ΠN represents the angular frequency (radians per second), N represents the frequency (Hz), and δ represents the phase shift (radians) of the stress relative to the strain.

[0368] Thus, the two functions have the same angular frequency but are phase shifted by an angle δ. Depending on the phase shift between τ(t) and γ(t), the behavior of the system can be captured. If δ=0, the material is purely elastic, if δ=Π / 2, the material is purely viscous (Newtonian fluid), if 0<δ<Π / 2, the material is viscoelastic.

[0369] In general, the stress and the strain are expressed in complex form: τ * (t) = τ0e iωt and γ * (t) = γ0e( iωt+δ )

[0370] The complex shear modulus, which represents the overall resistance of the material to the strain, whether the material is elastic or viscous, is then G * = τ * / γ * =G'+iG'', where G' is the storage or elastic modulus characterizing the energy stored and completely returned during cycling, i.e., G'=(τ0 / γ0)cosδ, and G'' is the loss or viscous modulus characterizing the energy dissipated by internal friction during cycling, i.e., G''=(τ0 / γ0)sin δ.

[0371] The parameter retained is the average shear modulus G recorded at the plateau measured at a frequency of 1 Hz. * It is.

[0372] Protocol for measuring stability A method for assessing stability is by observing the composition over time compared to a reference.

[0373] Instability can be detected by observing a phase shift, release, or change in appearance.

[0374] Additionally, variations in texture, appearance, color and odor may be evaluated macroscopically (with the naked eye) and / or microscopically.

[0375] In particular, the compositions are observed after storage for two months at ambient temperature (20-25° C.) For comparative purposes, the stability at two months at ambient temperature can be classified on a scale of 1 to 5, with 1 corresponding to the least stable composition.

[0376] Protocol for measuring freshness The freshness of the compositions was sensorily assessed upon application by a panel of five trained volunteers on a scale of 1 to 5, with 1 corresponding to the least refreshing composition.

[0377] l * Protocol for assessing transparency by measurement of The measurements are carried out on a Turbiscan™ Lab analytical instrument from Formulaction Inc. The measurements consist in illuminating the sample and measuring the transmitted and backscattered intensities by means of two synchronized detectors placed opposite and next to the light source.

[0378] The backscattering is the distance that a photon loses its initial direction, photon l * is directly related to the mean free path of

[0379] The l *The value is given in μm. The higher this value, the more transparent the sample.

[0380] Example I: Compositions according to the invention Compositions (1) and (2) according to the invention in gel / gel form were prepared as described below, the proportions of which are given in Table 1 below.

[0381] [Table 1]

[0382] Preparation of the Composition The compositions 1 and 2 are prepared according to the following procedure.

[0383] The components of phases A1 and A2 are heated until a clear liquid is obtained.

[0384] The components of Phase A3 are heated until a homogeneous yellow liquid is obtained.

[0385] The mixture of phases A1 and A2 is added to the hot phase A3.

[0386] Phases B1 to B3 are first mixed and then contacted with the previous oily mixture.

[0387] Next, the ingredients of Phases C and D are added.

[0388] result Compositions 1 and 2 are stable.

[0389] In addition, the composition is refreshing and becomes clear immediately upon application to the skin.

[0390] Example II: Comparative Compositions Non-inventive compositions (3), (4) and (5) were prepared as described below and in the proportions shown in Table 2 below.

[0391] [Table 2]

[0392] Preparation of the Composition The compositions 3 to 5 are prepared according to the following procedure.

[0393] The components of phases A1 and A2 are heated until a clear liquid is obtained.

[0394] The components of Phase A3 are heated until a homogeneous yellow liquid is obtained.

[0395] The mixture of phases A1 and A2 is added to the hot phase A3.

[0396] Phases B1 to B3 are first mixed and then contacted with the previous oily mixture.

[0397] Next, the ingredients of Phases C and D are added.

[0398] result Compared to Compositions 1 and 2, Compositions 3, 4 and 5 are less stable, less refreshing and less clear. The comparative data is shown in Table 3 below.

[0399] [Table 3]

Claims

1. 1. A composition comprising: (i) 0.05% to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of a first hydrophilic gelling agent selected from non-starch polysaccharides produced by microorganisms; and (ii) from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of a second hydrophilic gelling agent selected from copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid; At least one aqueous phase comprising (a) from 0.05% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of a first lipophilic gelling agent selected from N-acylamino acid derivatives; and (b) from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of a second lipophilic gelling agent chosen from esters of dextrins and C 12 -C 24 fatty acids; At least one oily phase comprising Including, The composition also comprises at least one UV blocker. The composition.

2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the first hydrophilic gelling agent (i) is present in an amount of from 0.1% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. The composition of claim 1 , wherein the first hydrophilic gelling agent (i) is selected from xanthan gum.

4. The composition of claim 1, wherein the second hydrophilic gelling agent (ii) is present in an amount of from 0.4% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. The composition of claim 1, wherein the second hydrophilic gelling agent (ii) is selected from copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and vinylpyrrolidone.

6. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the first lipophilic gelling agent (a) is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. 2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the first lipophilic gelling agent (a) is selected from dibutyl lauroyl glutamide and dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide.

8. 2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the second lipophilic gelling agent (b) is present in an amount ranging from 0.4% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. The second lipophilic gelling agent (b) is a mixture of dextrin and C １２ ~C １８ 2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the ester is selected from esters with fatty acids.

10. The composition further comprises at least a third lipophilic gelling agent (c), the third lipophilic gelling agent (c) being １０ ~C ３０ 2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the polyacrylate is selected from the group consisting of alkyl polyacrylates.

11. The composition according to claim 10, wherein the third lipophilic gelling agent (c) is present in an amount ranging from 0.2% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. 2. The composition of claim 1, wherein said aqueous phase and oily phase are present in an aqueous phase / oil phase weight ratio of from 30 / 70 to 90 / 10.

13. The composition of claim 1 , wherein the at least one UV blocking agent is selected from lipophilic UV blocking agents.

14. The composition of claim 1 , wherein the at least one UV blocking agent is present in whole or in part in the oily phase.

15. The composition of claim 1 further comprising at least one alcohol.

16. The composition according to claim 15, wherein the alcohol is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

17. The composition of claim 1 further comprising at least one additional cosmetic active agent.

18. A cosmetic method for making up and / or caring for keratinous materials, said method comprising at least one step consisting of applying to said keratinous materials a composition as defined in claim 1.

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