Emulsifying cosmeceutical compositions

Abstract

Emulsifier compositions with certain ingredients have been shown to emulsify large amounts of dermatologically active ingredients, such as botanical ingredients. Some of the ingredients in these emulsifier compositions include lecithin, glyceryl stearate, cetaryl alcohol, and cetaryl olivate. Successfully emulsified cosmeceutical compositions with 20% dermatologically active ingredients have been generated. These cosmeceutical emulsions were shown to be stable for months of heat or cold, as well as repeated freeze-thaw cycles.

Description

EMULSIFYING COSMECEUTICAL COMPOSITIONSBACKGROUND

[0001] Traditional cosmetic creams contain about 10% cosmetics or cosmeceutical actives, about 10% emulsifiers / thickeners and the rest is about 80% water. Owing to the large volume of water necessary in these formulations there is not much space remaining for cosmeceuticals. There is a need for better emulsification system that provide for increasing the amount of cosmeceuticals present in formulations. In addition, better emulsifying formulations provide potent environment for the best active ingredients.SUMMARY

[0002] Emulsifier compositions with certain ingredients have been shown to emulsify large amounts of dermatologically active ingredients, such as botanical ingredients. Some of the ingredients in these emulsifier compositions include lecithin, glyceryl stearate, cetaryl alcohol, and cetaryl olivate. Successfully emulsified cosmeceutical compositions with 20% dermatologically active ingredients have been generated. These cosmeceutical emulsions were shown to be stable for months of heat or cold, as well as repeated freeze-thaw cycles.BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0003] FIG. 1A shows a jar containing a heterogeneous skin cream mixture with a cloudy appearance due to the precipitate formation.

[0004] FIG. IB shows an enlarged view of the bottom-right of FIG. 1A, thereby showing precipitate solids in more detail.

[0005] FIG. 2A shows three homogenous skin cream solutions that were exposed to different temperatures. The darker brown color of the 40 °C sample, compared to the more whitish 25 °C and 5 °C samples, indicates oxidation.

[0006] FIG. 2B shows an enlarged view of the homogenous 40 °C solution from FIG. 2A.

[0007] FIG. 3 shows the results of the 12 week storage at 25 °C.

[0008] FIG. 4 shows the results of 12 week storage at 5 °C.

[0009] FIG. 5 shows the results of stability at 40 °C for 12 weeks.

[0010] FIG. 6 shows the stability results at 45 °C for 12 weeks.

[0011] FIG. 7 shows the stability results for 50 °C for 4 weeks.

[0012] FIG. 8 shows the stability of freeze-thaw cycles between 5 °C and 25 °C.DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0013] Emulsifier compositions with certain ingredients have been shown to emulsify large amounts of dermatologically active ingredients, such as botanical ingredients. Some of the ingredients in these emulsifier compositions include lecithin, glyceryl stearate, cetaryl alcohol, and cetaryl olivate. Successfully emulsified cosmeceutical compositions with 20% dermatologically active ingredients have been generated. These cosmeceutical emulsions were shown to be stable for months of heat and cold, as well as repeated freeze-thaw cycles.

[0014] Before the present invention is described in greater detail, it is to be understood that this invention is not limited to particular embodiments described, as such may vary. It is also to be understood that the terminology used herein is for the purpose of describing particular embodiments only, and is not intended to be limiting, since the scope of the present invention will be limited only by the appended claims.

[0015] Where a range of values is provided, it is understood that each intervening value, to the tenth of the unit of the lower limit unless the context clearly dictates otherwise, between the upper and lower limits of that range is also specifically disclosed. Each smaller range between any stated value or intervening value in a stated range and any other stated or intervening value in that stated range is encompassed within the invention. The upper and lower limits of these smaller ranges may independently be included or excluded in the range, and each range where either, neither or both limits are included in the smaller ranges is also encompassed within the invention, subject to any specifically excluded limit in the stated range. Where the stated range includes one or both of the limits, ranges excluding either or both of those included limits are also included in the invention.

[0016] Unless defined otherwise, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this invention belongs. Although any methods and materials similar or equivalent to those described herein can be used in the practice or testing of the present invention, some potential and exemplary methods and materials may now be described. Any and all publications mentioned herein are incorporated herein by reference to disclose and describe the methods and / or materials in connection with which the publications are cited. It is understood that the present disclosure supersedes any disclosure of an incorporated publication to the extent there is a contradiction.

[0017] It must be noted that as used herein and in the appended claims, the singular forms "a", "an", and "the" include plural referents unless the context clearly dictates otherwise. It is further noted that the claims may be drafted to exclude any element, e.g., any optional element. As such, this statement is intended to serve as antecedent basis for use of such exclusive terminology as“solely”, “only” and the like in connection with the recitation of claim elements, or the use of a “negative” limitation.

[0018] The publications discussed herein are provided solely for their disclosure prior to the filing date of the present application. Further, the dates of publication provided may be different from the actual publication dates which may need to be independently confirmed. To the extent the definition or usage of any term herein conflicts with a definition or usage of a term in an application or reference incorporated by reference herein, the instant application shall control.

[0019] As will be apparent to those of skill in the art upon reading this disclosure, each of the individual embodiments described and illustrated herein has discrete components and features which may be readily separated from or combined with the features of any of the other several embodiments without departing from the scope or spirit of the present invention. Any recited method can be carried out in the order of events recited or in any other order which is logically possible.EMULSIFIER COMPOSITIONS

[0020] Provided by the present disclosure are emulsifier compositions. These can be used to emulsify dermatologically active ingredients into a skin cream emulsion. The term “emulsion” is used in its traditional sense to refer to a composition that includes a dispersion of two or more immiscible liquids, such as a dispersion of an aqueous phase and an oil phase. The term “skin cream” is not intended to be structurally limiting, and instead merely refers to the practice of using certain emulsions as skin creams in the cosmetic and healthcare industries. The term “dermatologically active ingredient” refers to compounds that have a beneficial health or aesthetic effect on the skin of a human. These ingredients can also be referred to as “skin care ingredients”. Examples of such ingredients include pH adjusters, cleansers, surfactants, exfoliants, moisturizers, sunscreens (i.e. by absorbing UV rays), acne suppressants, anti-irritants, anti-microbials, antiinflammatories, anti-oxidants, anti-psoriasis, anti-aging, anti- wrinkles, colorants, skin texture modifiers, and skin elasticity modifiers. Additional examples of such ingredients include compounds that reduce oil production, increase oil production, reduce scarring, smooth the skin, treat bums, and unclog pores.

[0021] The emulsifier compositions provided herein include water and an emulsifier component. The emulsifier component includes the following compounds in the following percentages by mass: lecithin of 1% or less; glyceryl stearate of 0.1% to 3%; cetaryl alcohol at 0.1% to 1.5%;polyglyceryl-6 laurate at 0.1% to 2%; a polyglyceryl-3 ester of candelilla bran, jojoba bran, or rice bran at 0.1% to 2.5%; sodium stearoyl lactylate at 0.1% to 1.5%; cetearyl olivate at 0.2% to 5%; sorbitan olivate at 0.2% to 3%; hydrogenated lecithin at 0.1% or less; polyglyceryl- 10 laurate at 0.2% or less; sorbitan isostearate: at 0.1% or less; and sodium lauroyl lactylate at 1% or less.

[0022] In some embodiments, the emulsifier component is 3% to 25% by mass of the composition. In some embodiments, water is 75% to 97% of the mass of the emulsifier composition.EMULSIFIED SKIN CREAM

[0023] Provided by the present disclosure are emulsified skin creams. Such skin creams include: a dermatological component comprising one or more dermatologically active ingredients; an emulsifier composition comprising water and an emulsifier component comprising: lecithin of 1% or less; glyceryl stearate of 0.1% to 3%; cetaryl alcohol at 0.1% to 1.5%; polyglyceryl-6 laurate at 0.1% to 2%; a polyglyceryl-3 ester of candelilla bran, jojoba bran, or rice bran at 0.1% to 2.5%; sodium stearoyl lactylate at 0.1% to 1.5%; cetearyl olivate at 0.2% to 5%; sorbitan olivate at 0.2% to 3%; hydrogenated lecithin at 0. 1% or less; poly glyceryl- 10 laurate at 0.2% or less; sorbitan isostearate: at 0.1% or less; and sodium lauroyl lactylate at 1% or less, wherein the percentages are percentages by mass; and optionally addition water, wherein the emulsified skin cream is an emulsion.

[0024] As such, the emulsified skin cream includes the emulsifying composition described above, optionally additional water, and the dermatological component. It is understood that once these ingredients are physically mixed together they form an emulsion, and do not exist as three physically completely separate entities within the skin cream. For example, additional water can combine with the existing water.

[0025] In some embodiments, the skin cream is characterized by: w is the percentage of water by mass, d is the percentage of dermatological component by mass and ranges from 10% to 50%, e is the percentage of emulsifier component by mass and ranges from 5% to 10%, and w + d + e ranges from 95% to 100%.

[0026] As such, when w + d + e = 100%, there are no other components in the emulsified skin cream. In some cases, d ranges from 15% to 50%, such as 20% to 50%, 25% to 50%, 30% to 50%, 35% to 50%, or 40% to 50%. The particular combination of compounds in the emulsifier component allows for these advantageously high amounts of dermatological ingredients to be present in an emulsion. In contrast, attempting to include such high amounts with a less effective emulsifier component would cause the emulsion to break down. For example, the emulsion could break down into a single aqueous phase and a single oil phase. As another example, the emulsion could break down by forming precipitate solids. However, the current combination compounds in the emulsifier component allows for an emulsion to be maintained even with high amounts of dermatological ingredients (e.g. d is 20% to 50%).

[0027] In some cases, the emulsified skin cream is a water-in-oil emulsion. In some cases, it is an oil-in-water emulsion.

[0028] In some cases, the emulsified skin cream has a pH ranging from 5.0 to 6.0 at 20 °C.

[0029] Furthermore, since the dermatological ingredients can be included at a high mass percentage, then multiple ingredients can be included at functional levels. Stated in another manner, multiple ingredients can be included at a level that will cause the desired healthcare or aesthetic effect by a noticeable or sufficient amount. For example, if a moisturizing sunscreen is desired, then both the UV absorber and the moisturizer are included in the composition. However, if the moisturizer occupies most of the metaphorical space in the emulsion, then the sunscreen might only be includable at 0.1% concentration. However, a 0.1% UV absorber might provide almost no protection against sunburns. In contrast, the present emulsions might be able to include the sunscreen at 1% concentration, which could be enough to adequately protect against sunbum while also providing adequate moisturization. The concentration of each component needed to provide a sufficient healthcare or aesthetic effect is known by skilled artisans.

[0030] In some cases, the emulsified skin cream includes 2 or more dermatological ingredients at functional concentrations, such as 3 or more, 4 or more, 5 or more, 6 or more, 8 or more, or 10 or more. In some cases, 2 or more dermatological ingredients are present at 1% by mass or more, such as 3 or more, 4 or more, 5 or more, 6 or more, 8 or more, or 10 or more.

[0031] As discussed above, examples of such ingredients include those that moisturize, reduce oil production, increase oil production, sunscreens (i.e. by absorbing U V rays), acne suppressants, anti-irritants, anti-microbials, anti-inflammatories, anti-oxidants, anti-psoriasis, anti-aging, antiwrinkles, colorants, skin texture modifiers, skin elasticity modifiers, ingredients that reduce scarring, exfoliants, ingredients that smooth the skin, pH adjusters, cleansers, ingredients that treat bums, and ingredients that unclog pores.

[0032] In some cases, the one or more of such ingredients are botanical oils.

[0033] In some cases, the one or more dermatologically active ingredient is selected from the group consisting of: a matrikine, a tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate vitamin C derivative, niacinamide, an antioxidant, an anti-inflammatory compound, an amino acid, a soothing agent, a ceramide, a hyaluronate, a squalane, a chelating agent, niacinamide, glycerin, ethyl oleate, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter, oryza sativa (rice) extract, butyrospermum parkii (shea) oil, camellia oleifera (tea) seed oil, helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil, hippophae rhamnoides (sea buckthorn) seed oil, punica granatum (pomegranate) seed oil, rosa rubiginosa (rosehip) seed oil, rubus idaeus (raspberry) seed oil, simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil, terminalia ferdinandiana (kakadu plum) seed oil, vaccinium macrocarpon (cranberry) seed oil, pyrus malus (apple) fruit extract, rubus idaeus (raspberry) fruit extract, euterpe oleracea (acai) fruit extract, beta-glucan, ceramide AP, ceramide EOP, ceramide NP, a cholesterol, hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate, sodium hyaluronate, sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer, sodium acetylated hyaluronate, a glycosaminoglycan, a phospholipid, phytosphingosine, colloidal oatmeal, thioctic acid, soybean peroxidase, superoxide dismutase, hydroxyacetophenone, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t- butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, camellia sinensis leaf extract, epigallocatechin gallate, resveratrol, ubiquinone, tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate, arginine, glycine, proline, glutamic acid, alanine, lysine HC1, serine, threonine, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PC A), sodium PC A, pullulan, biosaccharide gum-1, sodium lactate, panthenol, caprylyl glycol, allantoin, a lactobacillus ferment, hydrogenated lysophosphatidylcholine, and hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine.

[0034] In some cases, the skin cream includes a matrikine. For example, the matrikine can be a regenerative bone peptide as disclosed in International Patent Application PCT7US2021 / 049432, which published as WO 2022 / 055974 Al , the contents of which are incorporated here in their entirety for all purposes. The regenerative bone peptides are also known as hydrolyzed caw bone extract and can be included in the final formulation in the actives as about 3% of the total formula,about 4%, about 5%, 6%, or more. The bone peptides can be about 1%, or about 2% of the total formula. As used herein the term “about” means + or - 10 - 20 % of the number it modifies.

[0035] These emulsifier blends can be useful for delivering botanical and dermatological agents in much larger amounts as heretofore in the cosmeceutical industry. In some cases, the emulsifier blends that can be used in ranges such as about 2% to about 12% of the total cosmeceutical formula, and all percentages between including all integers between 2% and 12%. The emulsifier blends can be about 2%, about 3%, about 4%, about 5%, about 6%, about 7%, about 8%, about 9%, about 10%, about 11%, and about 12% of the total formulation. The emulsifier blends are so effective that the amount of water has been reduced and the amount of actives can be dramatically increased. The amount of water can be reduced to about 50% and the amount of actives can be about 45% in some embodiments. Of course, depending on the amount of the emulsifier, the blend used the amounts of actives ranges and water can range can between 45%-55% water and 40% and 50% actives.EXAMPLES

[0036] The following examples are put forth so as to provide those of ordinary skill in the art with a complete disclosure and description of how to make and use the present invention, and are not intended to limit the scope of what the inventors regard as their invention nor are they intended to represent that the experiments below are all or the only experiments performed. Efforts have been made to ensure accuracy with respect to numbers used (e.g. amounts, temperature, etc.) but some experimental errors and deviations should be accounted for.General method of making and using the emulsifier compositions

[0037] Various emulsifiers and thickeners were blended using the following synthetic procedure. First, the oil-soluble ingredients and water-soluble ingredients were separately heated to 80 °C. Next, the oil-soluble ingredients were added to the water-soluble ingredients under moderate mixing, and mixing was continued for 10 minutes. Afterwards, the solution was gradually cooled down to 50 °C and a potassium hydroxide (KOH) solution was added until the pH was approximately pH 5.0 (i.e. around the pH of the skin). The mixture was further cooled to 35 °C and then the botanical and dermatological active ingredients were added. The mixture was mixed in an attempt to create a uniform composition. As described below, in some cases a uniform composition was obtained and in other cases the compounds fell out of solution and the experiment failed.Example 1: first emulsifier composition

[0038] First emulsifier compositions were created and used according to the general method described above and the particular ingredients listed below (% mass):

[0039] lecithin: 0.70 - 1.83

[0040] glyceryl stearate: 5.00 - 10.00

[0041] cetearyl alcohol: 1.67 - 2.79

[0042] sodium stearoyl glutamate: 1.35 - 1.98

[0043] total emulsifiers: 8.72 - 16.6

[0044] water: balance

[0045] The botanical and dermatological active ingredients used are shown in List 1. However, the resulting compositions would not emulsify into a homogenous composition, and therefore the first emulsifier compositions were determined to have failed at the emulsification task.

[0046] List 1 botanical and dermatological active ingredients: tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate vitamin C derivative, niacinamide, an antioxidant, an anti-inflammatory compound, an amino acid, a soothing agent, a ceramide, a hyaluronate, a squalane, a chelating agent, niacinamide, glycerin, ethyl oleate, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter, ory~a sativa (rice) extract, butyrospermum parkii (shea) oil, camellia oleifera (tea) seed oil, helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil, hippophae rhanmoidc (sea buckthorn) seed oil, punica granatum (pomegranate) seed oil, rosa rubiginosa (rosehip) seed oil, rubus idaeus (raspberry) seed oil, simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil, terminalia ferdinandiana (kakadu plum) seed oil, vaccinium macrocarpon (cranberry) seed oil, pyrus malus (apple) fruit extract, rubus idaeus (raspberry) fruit extract, euterpe oleracea (acai) fruit extract, beta-glucan, ceramide AP, ceramide EOP, ceramide NP, a cholesterol, hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate, sodium hyaluronate, sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer, sodium acetylated hyaluronate, a glycosaminoglycan, a phospholipid, phytosphingosine, colloidal oatmeal, thioctic acid, soybean peroxidase, superoxide dismutase, hydroxyacetophenone, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, camellia sinensis leaf extract, epigallocatechin gallate, resveratrol, ubiquinone, tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate, arginine, glycine, proline, glutamic acid, alanine, lysine HC1, serine, threonine, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA), sodium PCA, pullulan, biosaccharide gum-1, sodium lactate, panthenol, caprylyl glycol, allantoin, a lactobacillus ferment, hydrogenated lysophosphatidylcholine, and hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine.Example 2: second emulsifier compositions

[0047] Second emulsifier compositions were created and used according to the general method described above and the particular ingredients listed below (% mass):

[0048] lecithin: 0 - 0.19

[0049] glyceryl stearate: 0.33 -1.63

[0050] cetearyl alcohol: 0.18 - 0.88

[0051] polyglyceryl-6 laurate: 0.24 - 1.20

[0052] candelilla / jojoba / rice bran polyglyceryl-3 esters: 0.33 - 1.63

[0053] sodium stearoyl lactylate: 0.18 - 0.88

[0054] cetearyl olivate: 0.60 - 3.00

[0055] sorbitan olivate: 0.40 - 2.00

[0056] hydrogenated lecithin: 0.00 - 0.04

[0057] poly glyceryl- 10 laurate: 0.00 - 0.06

[0058] sorbitan isostearate: 0.00 - 0.03

[0059] sodium lauroyl lactylate: 0.10 - 0.50

[0060] total emulsifiers: 2.36 - 12.04

[0061] water: balance

[0062] The botanical and dermatological active ingredients used are shown in List 1. After mixing, uniform compositions were created and therefore the emulsification attempts were labeled as a success.Example 3: generation of emulsions and stability testing

[0063] Next, Example 2 emulsifier composition were used to create emulsions that also included dermatologically active ingredients. The emulsifying component was about 5% to about 10% of the mass, whereas the amount water was about 45% to 50%. Hence, the amount of dermatological ingredients was around 45%, which is much higher percentage than many previous skin creams that could only include about 10% as dermatological ingredients.

[0064] The stability of the skin cream compositions was tested in four different aspects: long term stability, cold stability, heat stability, and cyclic exposure to cold and being frozen. All compositions were stored in air-tight glass jars.

[0065] The long term stability was tested by storing the cream at 25 °C for 3 months. Cold stability was tested by keeping the cream at 5 °C for 3 months. Heat stability was tested by keeping the cream at 40 °C for 3 months, 45 °C for 3 months, or 50 °C for 1 month.

[0066] As a final test, skin cream samples underwent one cycle by exposing them to negative 20 °C for 24 hours and then room temperature of 25 °C for 24 hours. The cycle was repeated two more times, giving a total of three cycles between -20 °C and 25 °C.

[0067] After undergoing each stability testing procedure, the samples were evaluated for several different parameters: color, odor, physical appearance, precipitation of solids, pH (at 25 °C), viscosity, and specific gravity (at 25 °C). Viscosity was assessed with a Brookfield Viscometer / Rheometer (procedure number 6-003, revision 2) using spindle number 4, spindle speed 10 rpm, and spin time of 1 minute. Specific gravity was tested with procedure number 6-002, revision I.

[0068] As discussed above, the Example 1 trials failed because they did not produce a homogenous, emulsified composition.

[0069] However, the Example 2 trials successfully produced homogenous emulsions. Thus, the Example 2 samples were tested for temporal and thermal stability in each of the manners described above. Before stability testing began, the sample had an initial pH of 5.36, an initial specific gravity of 1.00 g / ml, the appearance of a lotion, a color of off-white to light-yellow, and a characteristic odor.

[0070] FIG. 3 shows the results of the 12 week storage at 25 °C. Most parameters remained essentially unchanged (pH, appearance, color, and odor) and there was only a slight decrease in viscosity from 10,980 to 8,820.

[0071] FIG. 4 shows the results of 12 week storage at 5 °C. No meaningful or significant changes were detected.

[0072] FIG. 5 shows the results of stability at 40 °C for 12 weeks. Viscosity slightly decreased from 10,800 to 9,780. The initial color of the entire cream was off-white to light-yellow, but a dark beige layer color in the upper layer developed by 12 weeks. No other significant changes were observed.

[0073] FIG. 6 shows the stability results at 45 °C for 12 weeks. A dark beige upper layer developed by 12 weeks, but no other significant changes occurred.

[0074] FIG. 7 shows the stability results for 50 °C for 4 weeks. A dark beige upper layer developed by 12 weeks, but no other significant changes occurred.

[0075] FIG. 8 shows the stability of freeze-thaw cycles between 5 °C and 25 °C. No other significant changes occurred.

[0076] Based on these results, the formulations were determined to have stability towards the conditions tested except for discoloration when continuously heated at 40 °C to 50 °C for several weeks.

[0077] Although the foregoing invention has been described in some detail by way of illustration and example for purposes of clarity of understanding, it is readily apparent to those of ordinary skill in the art in light of the teachings of this invention that certain changes and modifications may be made thereto without departing from the spirit or scope of the appended claims.

[0078] Accordingly, the preceding merely illustrates the principles of the invention. It will be appreciated that those skilled in the art will be able to devise various arrangements which, althoughnot explicitly described or shown herein, embody the principles of the invention and are included within its spirit and scope. Furthermore, all examples and conditional language recited herein are principally intended to aid the reader in understanding the principles of the invention and the concepts contributed by the inventors to furthering the art, and are to be construed as being without limitation to such specifically recited examples and conditions. Moreover, all statements herein reciting principles, aspects, and embodiments of the invention as well as specific examples thereof, are intended to encompass both structural and functional equivalents thereof. Additionally, it is intended that such equivalents include both currently known equivalents and equivalents developed in the future, i.e., any elements developed that perform the same function, regardless of structure. Moreover, nothing disclosed herein is intended to be dedicated to the public regardless of whether such disclosure is explicitly recited in the claims.

[0079] The scope of the present invention, therefore, is not intended to be limited to the exemplary embodiments shown and described herein. Rather, the scope and spirit of present invention is embodied by the appended claims. In the claims, 35 U.S.C. § 112(f) is expressly defined as being invoked for a limitation in the claim only when the exact phrase "means for" or the exact phrase "step for" is recited at the beginning of such limitation in the claim; if such exact phrase is not used in a limitation in the claim, then 35 U.S.C. § 112(f) is not invoked.

Claims

CLAIMSWhat Is Claimed Is:

1. An emulsifier composition for emulsifying dermatologically active ingredients in a skin cream, the emulsifier composition comprising water and an emulsifier component, wherein the emulsifier component comprises: lecithin of 1% or less; glyceryl stearate of 0.1% to 3%; cetaryl alcohol at 0.1% to 1.5%; polyglyceryl-6 laurate at 0.1% to 2%; a polyglyceryl-3 ester of candelilla bran, jojoba bran, or rice bran at 0.1% to 2.5%; sodium stearoyl lactylate at 0.1% to 1.5%; cetearyl olivate at 0.2% to 5%; sorbitan olivate at 0.2% to 3%; hydrogenated lecithin at 0.1% or less; polyglyceryl- 10 laurate at 0.2% or less; sorbitan isostearate: at 0.1% or less; and sodium lauroyl lactylate at 1% or less, wherein the percentages are percentages by mass.

2. The emulsifier composition of claim 1, wherein the emulsifier component is 3% to 25% of the mass of the emulsifier composition.

3. The emulsifier composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the water is 75% to 97% of the mass of the emulsifier composition.

4. An emulsified skin cream comprising: a dermatological component comprising one or more dermatologically active ingredients; an emulsifier composition comprising water and an emulsifier component comprising: lecithin of 1% or less; glyceryl stearate of 0.1% to 3%; cetaryl alcohol at 0.1% to 1.5%; polyglyceryl-6 laurate at 0.1% to 2%; a polyglyceryl-3 ester of candelilla bran, jojoba bran, or rice bran at 0. 1% to 2.5%; sodium stearoyl lactylate at 0.1% to 1.5%;cetearyl olivate at 0.2% to 5%; sorbitan olivate at 0.2% to 3%; hydrogenated lecithin at 0.1% or less; poly glyceryl- 10 laurate at 0.2% or less; sorbitan isostearate: at 0.1% or less; and sodium lauroyl lactylate at 1% or less, wherein the percentages are percentages by mass; and optionally addition water, wherein the emulsified skin cream is an emulsion.

5. The emulsified skin cream of claim 4, wherein: w is the percentage of water by mass, d is the percentage of dermatological component by mass and ranges from 10% to 50%, e is the percentage of emulsifier component by mass and ranges from 5% to 10%, and w + d + e ranges from 95% to 100%.

6. The emulsified skin cream of claim 5, wherein d ranges from 20% to 50%.

7. The emulsified skin cream of claim 6, wherein d ranges from 40% to 50%.

8. The emulsified skin cream of any one of claims 5-7, wherein w + d + e = 100%.

9. The emulsified skin cream of any one of claims 4-8, wherein the emulsified skin cream is a water-in-oil emulsion.

10. The emulsified skin cream of any one of claims 4-8, wherein the emulsified skin cream is an oil-in-water emulsion.

11. The emulsified skin cream of any one of claims 4-10, wherein the emulsified skin cream has a pH ranging from 5.0 to 6.0 at 20 °C.

12. The emulsified skin cream of any one of claims 4-11, wherein the dermatological component comprises 3 or more dermatologically active ingredients that are present at functional concentrations.

13. The emulsified skin cream of any one of claims 4-12, wherein the dermatological component comprises 3 or more dermatologically active ingredients that are each present at a concentration of at least 1% by mass.

14. The emulsified skin cream of claim 12, wherein the dermatological component comprises 6 or more dermatologically active ingredients that are present at functional concentrations.

15. The emulsified skin cream of claim 14, wherein the dermatological component comprises 6 or more dermatologically active ingredients that are each present at a concentration of at least 1% by mass.

16. The emulsified skin cream of any one of claims 4-15, wherein the one or more dermatologically active ingredients comprise one or more botanical oils.

17. The emulsified skin cream of any one of claims 4-16, wherein the one or more dermatologically active ingredients is one or more ingredient selected from the group consisting of: a matrikine, a tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate vitamin C derivative, niacinamide, an antioxidant, an anti-inflammatory compound, an amino acid, a soothing agent, a ceramide, a hyaluronate, a squalane, a chelating agent, niacinamide, glycerin, ethyl oleate, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter, oryza sativa (rice) extract, butyrospermum parkii (shea) oil, camellia oleifera (tea) seed oil, helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil, hippophae rhamnoides (sea buckthorn) seed oil, punica granatum (pomegranate) seed oil, rosa rubiginosa (rosehip) seed oil, rubus idaeus (raspberry) seed oil, simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil, terminalia ferdinandiana (kakadu plum) seed oil, vaccinium macrocarpon (cranberry) seed oil, pyrus mains (apple) fruit extract, rubus idaeus (raspberry) fruit extract, euterpe oleracea (acai) fruit extract, beta-glucan, ceramide AP, ceramide EOP, ceramide NP, a cholesterol, hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate, sodium hyaluronate, sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer, sodium acetylated hyaluronate, a glycosaminoglycan, a phospholipid, phytosphingosine, colloidal oatmeal, thioctic acid, soybean peroxidase, superoxide dismutase, hydroxyacetophenone, pentaerythrityl tetra-di- t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, camellia sinensis leaf extract, epigallocatechin gallate, resveratrol, ubiquinone, tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate, arginine, glycine, proline, glutamic acid, alanine, lysine HC1, serine, threonine, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA), sodium PCA, pullulan, biosaccharide gum-1, sodium lactate, panthenol, caprylyl glycol, allantoin, a lactobacillus ferment, hydrogenated lysophosphatidylcholine, and hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine.

18. The emulsified skin cream of claim 17, wherein the one or more dermatologically active ingredients comprise a matrikine.

19. A method of making an emulsified skin cream, comprising: mixing an emulsifier composition of any one of claims 1-3, optionally additional water, and one or more dermatologically active ingredients to make an initial emulsion; and optionally adjusting the pH of the initial emulsion by adding an acid or a base, thereby generating the emulsified skin cream.

20. The method of claim 19, wherein the generated emulsified skin cream is an emulsified skin cream of any one of claims 4-18.

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