Microemulsion essence containing ceramide and preparation method thereof

Abstract

The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and discloses micro-emulsion essence water containing ceramide and a preparation method of the micro-emulsion essence water. The micro-emulsion essence containing ceramide is prepared from the following components: an emulsifier, a humectant, polypeptide, small molecular grease and water, the emulsifying agent comprises polyglycerol-10 oleate, the emulsifying agent does not contain a PEG and / or PPG structure, the humectant comprises glycerol and ceramide, and the small molecule grease comprises at least one of tridecane, undecane, isononyl isononanoate, propyl heptyl octoate, coconut oil alcohol-octoate / caprate, dicapryl carbonate and dioctyl ether. The micro-emulsion essence water containing ceramide has excellent stability, low viscosity, refreshing texture which is common to water and fine skin feeling, and also has excellent moisturizing and tightening effects.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to a microemulsion essence water containing ceramide and a preparation method thereof. Background Art

[0002] Essence water is between ordinary cleansing lotion and essence. Compared with ordinary lotion, essence water is no longer aimed at ordinary skin cleansing, but moisturizes the skin according to different skin types while achieving deeper moisturizing and repairing effects. In order to achieve these effects, many essence ingredients are added to essence water. However, compared with emulsified creams, lotions, and essences, the moisturizing effects of essence water are poor.

[0003] Ceramide is a natural skin lipid that forms a waterproof barrier on the surface of the skin, which not only helps the skin lock in moisture, but also promotes self-repair of the skin barrier and regulates skin cells. If the ceramide content in the skin's stratum corneum decreases, the water-locking function of the skin's stratum corneum will decrease, increasing the amount of water lost from the skin's epidermis and causing dryness; at the same time, irritants and allergens in the external environment can easily pass through the skin, causing skin inflammatory reactions and leading to the occurrence of atopic dermatitis. However, ceramide is a highly crystalline substance, and its application in cosmetics has problems such as low solubility, poor water dispersibility, and easy crystallization. It is insoluble in water and oil, which limits its application in cosmetics. At present, the application of ceramide in cosmetics is mainly in the form of liposomes, microcapsules, etc., and most of them are added to creams and emulsion systems, which has limited application.

[0004] Low-viscosity emulsions, that is, low-viscosity emulsions, are characterized by low viscosity and being emulsified. The industry generally believes that they are difficult to make. Generally speaking, liquids tend to shrink inward spontaneously. If two liquids are immiscible, direct mixing will result in the phenomenon of two liquids stratifying. Emulsification is the process of evenly dispersing one liquid in another immiscible liquid through the establishment of an interface. The product obtained in this process is called an emulsion, or emulsion for short; however, emulsions with a viscosity of less than 500mPa·s are usually difficult to maintain at room temperature or high temperature (48°C). This is because oils and fats have a relatively low density and are easy to float. The viscosity of the system will affect the rate at which the process occurs.

[0005] Microemulsion (ME) is a thermodynamically stable uniform dispersion system that can be spontaneously formed by matching oil phase, water phase, surfactant phase (or co-surfactant) in a certain proportion. However, most of these systems require the use of equipment to provide higher energy, such as high-pressure micro-dispersion emulsifiers, which are complex to operate.

[0006] The invention patent with publication number CN104739724A discloses a preparation process of a natural skin-beautifying and moisturizing microemulsified essence composition. The product mainly emulsifies caprylic / capric triglyceride and cyclopentasiloxane through hydrogenated lecithin, and adds thickeners such as acrylic acid (ester) class / C10-30 alkyl acrylate cross-linked polymer and ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate / VP copolymer to stabilize the suspension. The addition of thickener reduces the freshness of the product and limits the particle size of the product to be smaller (below 100nm). The product also uses caprylic / capric triglyceride and cyclopentasiloxane, and caprylic / capric triglyceride is easily oxidized and stinks, and these two substances have potential risks to the skin. In addition, the process of this scheme is relatively complicated, requiring multiple vacuum homogenization and high-pressure homogenization treatments, which greatly limits the efficiency of production.

[0007] At present, the products on the market are basically microemulsion essences / lotions, which have an unclear texture, do not feel as refreshing as essence water on the skin, and have relatively poor transdermal absorption effects. Moreover, most of them use surfactants containing PPG or PEG structures, which are somewhat irritating to the skin.

[0008] Therefore, there is an urgent need to develop an essence water containing ceramide to improve its skin feel and moisturizing properties. Summary of the invention

[0009] The present invention aims to solve at least one of the technical problems existing in the above-mentioned prior art. To this end, the present invention provides a microemulsion essence water containing ceramide and a preparation method thereof. The microemulsion essence water containing ceramide of the present invention has good stability, low viscosity, a refreshing texture like water, and good moisturizing effect.

[0010] The first aspect of the present invention provides a microemulsion essence water, which comprises the following components: an emulsifier, a moisturizer, a polypeptide, a small molecule oil and water; the emulsifier comprises polyglycerol-10 oleate, and the emulsifier does not contain PEG and / or PPG structure, the moisturizer comprises glycerin and ceramide, and the small molecule oil comprises at least one of tridecane, undecane, isononyl isononanoate, propylheptyl octanoate, coconut oil alcohol-caprylate / caprate, dicaprylyl carbonate and dicaprylyl ether.

[0011] In some embodiments of the present invention, the content of the polyglycerol-10 oleate in the microemulsion essence water is 3wt%-5wt%.

[0012] In some embodiments of the present invention, the content of glycerol in the microemulsion essence water is 8wt%-30wt%.

[0013] In some embodiments of the present invention, the content of the small molecule oil in the microemulsion essence water is 1wt%-7wt%.

[0014] In some embodiments of the present invention, the content of the ceramide in the microemulsion essence water is 0.01 wt %-0.7 wt %.

[0015] In some embodiments of the present invention, the ceramide comprises ceramide NP and / or ceramide E.

[0016] In some embodiments of the present invention, the ceramide includes ceramide NP and ceramide E.

[0017] In some embodiments of the present invention, the moisturizing agent further comprises at least one of butylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, panthenol and sodium hyaluronate.

[0018] In some embodiments of the present invention, the moisturizing agent further comprises butylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, panthenol and sodium hyaluronate.

[0019] In some embodiments of the present invention, the polypeptide includes at least one of palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, acetyl hexapeptide-8 and carnosine.

[0020] In some embodiments of the invention, the polypeptides include palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, acetyl hexapeptide-8 and carnosine.

[0021] In some embodiments of the present invention, the microemulsion essence water further comprises a chelating agent and / or an antioxidant.

[0022] In some embodiments of the present invention, the microemulsion essence water further comprises a chelating agent and an antioxidant.

[0023] In some embodiments of the invention, the chelating agent is disodium EDTA.

[0024] In some embodiments of the present invention, the antioxidant agent is p-hydroxyacetophenone.

[0025] The second aspect of the present invention provides a method for preparing the microemulsion essence water according to the first aspect of the present invention, comprising the following steps:

[0026] The polyglycerol-10 oleate, glycerin and ceramide are mixed, heated and stirred to obtain a mixture A;

[0027] heating the small molecule oil and stirring to obtain an oil phase;

[0028] Mixing the water and the remaining moisturizer, heating, and stirring to obtain an aqueous phase;

[0029] The mixture A, the oil phase and the water phase are mixed and stirred to obtain a mixture B;

[0030] After the mixture B is cooled, it is mixed with the polypeptide and stirred to obtain the microemulsion essence water.

[0031] In some embodiments of the present invention, the heating temperature is 55-70°C.

[0032] In some embodiments of the present invention, the stirring speed is 5-20 rpm.

[0033] In some embodiments of the present invention, the stirring time is 3-30 min.

[0034] In some embodiments of the present invention, a chelating agent and / or an antioxidant is further added to the aqueous phase.

[0035] In some embodiments of the present invention, a chelating agent and an antioxidant are also added to the aqueous phase.

[0036] In some embodiments of the present invention, the method for preparing the microemulsion essence water specifically comprises the following steps:

[0037] Step 1: Mix butanediol, 1,2-hexanediol and p-hydroxyacetophenone, heat to 55-65°C, and dissolve completely to obtain a premix;

[0038] Step 2: Put polyglycerol-10 oleate, glycerol, ceramide NP and ceramide E into an emulsifier, heat to 60-70°C, and stir at a speed of 5-20 rpm for 5-20 minutes until the components are completely dispersed and dissolved uniformly to obtain a mixture A;

[0039] Step 3: Add the small molecule oil into the oil phase pot, heat to 55-60°C, and stir at a speed of 5-20rpm for 3-5min until the components are completely dispersed and dissolved evenly to obtain the oil phase;

[0040] Step 4: Add water, panthenol, sodium hyaluronate and disodium EDTA into a water phase pot, heat to 60-70°C, stir at a speed of 5-20 rpm for 5-15 minutes until the components are completely dispersed and dissolved evenly, then add the premix, stir at a speed of 5-20 rpm for 3-5 minutes until the components are evenly dispersed, and obtain a water phase;

[0041] Step 5: slowly and evenly add the oil phase to the emulsifying pot, stir at a speed of 5-20 rpm for 5-10 minutes until it is evenly dispersed, then slowly and evenly add the water phase to the emulsifying pot, stir at a speed of 5-20 rpm for 10-30 minutes until it is evenly dispersed, to obtain mixed material B;

[0042] Step 6: After the mixture B is cooled to 40-45°C, add palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, acetyl hexapeptide-8 and carnosine into the emulsifier, stir at a speed of 5-20rpm for 10-30min until it is uniform and smooth to obtain a microemulsion essence water.

[0043] Compared with the prior art, the beneficial effects of the present invention are as follows:

[0044] (1) The microemulsion essence water of the present invention does not contain a PEG (polyethylene glycol) / PPG (polypropylene glycol) structure in the emulsifier, is mild and non-irritating, has excellent stability, has low viscosity, has a water-like refreshing texture, and has a delicate skin feel. It also has a good moisturizing effect and can achieve similar effects to essence / lotion.

[0045] (2) The microemulsion essence water of the present invention has excellent diffusion and skin penetration effects. With the help of microemulsification technology, the bioavailability of the effective ingredients in the product is improved, and it has excellent moisturizing and firming effects.

[0046] (3) The present invention adopts low-energy emulsification technology and does not require the complicated operation of high-pressure homogenization, making the production process simpler and more efficient and achieving mass production. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0047] Figure 1 These are pictures of the product prepared in Example 1 after being tested at room temperature, high temperature and low temperature for 3 months;

[0048] Figure 2 These are pictures of the product prepared in Example 2 after being tested at room temperature, high temperature and low temperature for 3 months;

[0049] Figure 3 These are pictures of the product prepared in Example 3 after being tested at room temperature, high temperature and low temperature for 3 months;

[0050] Figure 4 The pictures of the product prepared in Comparative Example 1 after being tested at room temperature, high temperature and low temperature for 3 months;

[0051] Figure 5 The pictures of the product prepared in Comparative Example 2 after being tested at room temperature, high temperature and low temperature for 3 months;

[0052] Figure 6 The pictures of the product prepared in comparative example 3 after being tested at room temperature, high temperature and low temperature for 3 months;

[0053] Figure 7 The pictures of the product prepared in comparative example 5 after being tested at room temperature, high temperature and low temperature for 3 months;

[0054] Figure 8 These are pictures of the product prepared in Comparative Example 6 after being tested at room temperature, high temperature and low temperature conditions for 3 months. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0055] In order to make the technical scheme of the present invention more clearly understood by those skilled in the art, the following embodiments are listed for illustration. It should be pointed out that the following embodiments do not limit the protection scope of the present invention.

[0056] Unless otherwise specified, the raw materials, reagents or devices used in the present invention can be obtained from conventional commercial channels or by existing known methods.

[0057] Examples 1-3

[0058] Examples 1-3 respectively provide a microemulsion essence water, and the specific formula of the microemulsion essence water is shown in Table 1.

[0059] Table 1

[0060]

[0061] The preparation method of the microemulsion essence water of Examples 1-3 comprises the following steps:

[0062] Step 1: Mix the components of phase D in advance, heat to 60°C, and dissolve completely to obtain a premix;

[0063] Step 2: Add the phase A components into an emulsifying pot, heat to 65°C, and stir at a speed of 15 rpm for 10 minutes until the components are completely dispersed and dissolved evenly to obtain mixed material A;

[0064] Step 3: Add the phase B components into the oil phase pot, heat to 55°C, and stir at 15 rpm for 5 minutes until the components are completely dispersed and dissolved evenly to obtain the oil phase;

[0065] Step 4: Add the C phase components into the water phase pot, heat to 65°C, stir at a speed of 15 rpm for 10 min until the components are completely dispersed and dissolved evenly, then add the premix into the water phase pot, stir at a speed of 15 rpm for 3 min until the components are evenly dispersed, and obtain the water phase;

[0066] Step 5: slowly and evenly add the oil phase to the emulsifier, stir at a speed of 15 rpm for 8 minutes until it is evenly dispersed, then slowly and evenly add the water phase to the emulsifier, stir at a speed of 15 rpm for 20 minutes until it is evenly dispersed, to obtain a mixture B;

[0067] Step 6: After the mixture B is cooled to 40°C, add the E phase components into the emulsifier and stir at 15 rpm for 20 minutes until it is uniform and smooth to obtain the microemulsion essence water.

[0068] Comparative Examples 1-4

[0069] Comparative Examples 1-4 respectively provide an essence water, and the specific formula of the essence water is shown in Table 2.

[0070] Table 2

[0071]

[0072]

[0073] Comparative Example 5

[0074] The difference from Example 2 is that in Comparative Example 5, an equal amount of coconut oil caprylate / caprate is replaced by pentaerythritol tetraisostearate, and the remaining components, contents and preparation method are the same as in Example 2.

[0075] Comparative Example 6

[0076] The difference from Example 2 is that in Comparative Example 6, polyglycerol-10 oleate is replaced with PEG-100 stearate and glyceryl stearate in equal amounts, and the remaining components, contents and preparation methods are the same as those in Example 2. PEG-100 stearate and glyceryl stearate are purchased from BASF, and the product model is EMULGADE 165CN.

[0077] Comparative Example 7

[0078] The difference from Comparative Example 6 is that in Comparative Example 7, 0.25% of ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer is added to Phase C as a thickening and suspending agent for suspending and stabilizing the system, and glycerol is placed in Phase C at the same time.

[0079] The product is prepared by a conventional emulsification process, including the steps of: mixing the A phase component and the B phase component, heating them to 80°C and stirring them evenly to obtain an AB mixed phase; heating the C phase component separately to 80°C and stirring them evenly; slowly adding the AB mixed phase to the C phase, and turning on the high-speed homogenizer (3000rpm) for 15 minutes; adding the D phase after cooling to 60°C, and then adding the E phase after cooling to 40°C, and stirring evenly.

[0080] Product viscosity test

[0081] Test instrument: Digital rotational viscometer (NDJ-8S) from Shanghai Fangrui Instruments.

[0082] Test samples: products prepared in Examples 1-3 and Comparative Example 7.

[0083] Test method:

[0084] 1. Keep the machine level;

[0085] 2. Avoid generating bubbles when placing the rotor into the sample, otherwise the measured viscosity value will be reduced. The way to avoid this is to place the rotor into the sample at an angle, and then install the rotor. The rotor cannot touch the cup wall and bottom, and the sample to be measured must not exceed the specified scale.

[0086] 3. When measuring different samples, the rotor must be kept clean and dry. If there are other samples or residual water on the rotor after cleaning, it will affect the accuracy of the measurement;

[0087] 4. When connecting the rotor, use your left hand to gently lift and hold the mandrel (on the main unit), and use your right hand to rotate the rotor. This operation is to protect the mandrel and hairspring inside the body, which can extend the service life of the instrument.

[0088] 5. Select the appropriate rotor and speed, take values ​​when they are relatively stable, and record the data.

[0089] The test data is shown in Table 3.

[0090] Table 3

[0091]

[0092] It can be seen from Table 3 that the viscosity of the samples of Examples 1-3 is close to the viscosity of deionized water, while the viscosity of the sample of Comparative Example 7 is significantly higher than that of water and the samples of Examples 1-3. The final intuitive feeling brought to consumers is stickiness and lack of freshness.

[0093] Product stability testing

[0094] Test samples: products prepared in Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 5 to 7. It should be noted that Comparative Example 4 is a conventional essence water formula, which has good stability and does not need to be tested.

[0095] Test method: Place each group of samples in a high temperature (48°C) oven, a low temperature (-15°C) refrigerator, and room temperature conditions, and observe the conditions of the samples every 1 week, 1 month, 2 months, and 3 months.

[0096] The test results are shown in Table 4-6 and Figure 1-8 shown.

[0097] Table 4

[0098]

[0099]

[0100] Table 5

[0101]

[0102] Table 6

[0103]

[0104]

[0105] Note: "ok" in the table means stable without delamination.

[0106] From Table 4 and Figure 1-3 It can be seen that, except for slight changes in normal color, Examples 1-3 are all stable and without delamination, among which Example 2 has a relatively better appearance.

[0107] From Table 5 and Figure 4 It can be seen that the glycerin in the formula is also critical. If too much is added, it will easily lead to a sticky skin feel, and if too little is added, stratification will occur at low temperatures (-15°C). For example, when a small amount of glycerin is added in Comparative Example 1, stratification occurs at low temperatures. It may be that glycerin can lower the freezing point of the system, strengthen the interface film of the emulsified system, and thus improve the stability of the emulsified system.

[0108] From Table 5 and Figure 5 It can be seen that reducing the amount of emulsifier (polyglycerol-10 oleate) added will also reduce the stability of the system. For example, in Comparative Example 2, stratification occurred after three months of testing, especially under high and low temperature conditions.

[0109] From Table 5 and Figure 6 It can be seen that the more the content of small molecule oil, the more turbid and milky the appearance will be. However, if the content exceeds the limit of the present invention, stratification will occur, such as in Comparative Example 3, serious stratification occurred after three months at room temperature, high temperature or low temperature.

[0110] From Table 6 and Figure 7 It can be seen that the type of oil is also very important. The products prepared by adding small molecule oils, such as Examples 1-3, have a smaller particle size, between 50-150nm, and a translucent blue appearance. If a large molecule oil is selected, such as Comparative Example 5 (pentaerythritol tetraisostearate), the prepared product is turbid like an emulsion, has a particle size greater than 150nm, and the skin feel is not as refreshing as that of Examples 1-3.

[0111] From Table 6 and Figure 8 It can be seen that since the emulsifier of the present invention (polyglycerol-10 oleate) is replaced by a conventional emulsifier (PEG-100 stearate, glyceryl stearate) in Comparative Example 6, it is not only turbid in appearance but also extremely unstable, and the sample has already shown severe stratification after one week.

[0112] Comparative Example 7 is a product prepared by conventional emulsification technology. Compared with Comparative Example 6, it is relatively stable because a stabilizing suspending agent is added, but it feels sticky on the skin and has an appearance of a milky white viscous liquid.

[0113] Safety evaluation

[0114] Test samples: products prepared in Examples 1-3.

[0115] The test method is as follows:

[0116] The chorioallantoic membrane (CAM) is a respiratory membrane that surrounds the chicken embryo. Since the surface of the chicken embryo chorioallantoic membrane is rich in blood vessels and can be regarded as a complete organism, this test uses the characteristics of the complete, clear and transparent vascular system of the chorioallantoic membrane of the mid-stage incubated chicken embryo. A certain amount of the test substance is directly exposed to the chicken embryo chorioallantoic membrane. After the specified time, the changes in the toxic effect indicators of the chorioallantoic membrane (such as bleeding, coagulation and vascular melting) are observed, and scores are given. The mathematical mean value is calculated to evaluate the irritation of the test substance.

[0117] A. Preparation of chicken embryos: Fertilized chicken embryos of varieties such as White Leghorn chicken, weighing 50g-60g, preferably SPF chicken embryos, are placed in an incubator for incubation, with the temperature controlled at 37.5℃±0.5℃, relative humidity at 55%-70%, and the frequency of egg turning 3 times / h-6 times / h. On the 8th day of incubation, the eggs are checked with an egg candling device, unfertilized and inactive chicken embryos are discarded, and chicken embryos with well-developed blood vessels are selected, and the position of the air chamber is marked on the surface of the eggshell.

[0118] B. Test process: There are at least 6 chicken embryos in each group, and negative and positive controls need to be set up for each test. The test started on the 9th day. Carefully peel off the air chamber eggshell part with dental curved forceps, drop a few drops of physiological saline on the surface of the eggshell membrane to fully moisten it, and after pouring it out, carefully remove the eggshell membrane with forceps to ensure that the exposed chorioallantoic membrane is intact and not damaged. Take 0.3mL / 0.3g of the test substance and apply it directly to the CAM. Spread it as much as possible to ensure that the coverage area reaches at least 50%. After 3 minutes of action, gently rinse the surface of the CAM with double distilled water, and complete the rinse within 30s. Pour out the liquid, and immediately observe the degree of change of each toxic effect under a stereomicroscope, and give a score (ES) according to the capillary bleeding, coagulation, and vascular melting.

[0119] C. Observation results:

[0120] Bleeding: blood flows out of the blood vessels or capillaries of the CAM. No bleeding, mild bleeding, moderate bleeding, and severe bleeding are scored as 0, 1, 2, and 3 points, respectively.

[0121] Coagulation: refers to the denaturation of proteins inside and outside blood vessels, manifested as thrombus, swelling of the vessel wall, the appearance of coagulation points inside and outside blood vessels, milky turbidity outside blood vessels, etc. No coagulation, mild coagulation, moderate coagulation, and severe coagulation are scored as 0, 1, 2, and 3 points respectively.

[0122] Vascular ablation: refers to the ablation of blood vessels on the CAM membrane. No vascular ablation, mild vascular ablation, moderate vascular ablation, and severe vascular ablation were scored as 0, 1, 2, and 3 points, respectively.

[0123] D. Result calculation and evaluation:

[0124] The average ES score is calculated using the following formula:

[0125] ES = the sum of the extent of bleeding, coagulation, and vascular melting observed in 6 chick embryos / 3.

[0126] Determine the stimulus classification according to Table 7, and the test results are shown in Table 8.

[0127] Table 7

[0128] End point scoring Irritation classification ES≤12 No / mild irritation 12<ES<16 Moderate irritation ES≥16 Severe irritation

[0129] Table 8

[0130] Group Irritation evaluation index ES Irritation classification Example 1 1.03 No / mild irritation Example 2 1.52 No / mild irritation Example 3 1.86 No / mild irritation

[0131] It can be seen from the data in Table 8 that the microemulsion essence water prepared in Examples 1-3 has no hemolysis phenomenon, is safe and non-irritating, has no adverse reactions to the human body, and is highly safe.

[0132] Product efficacy testing

[0133] Three groups of 33 subjects were selected. The subjects used the product once on the left and right sides of the face every morning and evening. The moisturizing and firming effects of the product on human skin were comprehensively evaluated before use (D0), on the 7th day of use (D7), and on the 14th day of use (D14).

[0134] (1) Evaluation of moisturizing effect

[0135] Test samples: microemulsion essence water prepared in Examples 1-3 and ordinary essence water prepared in Comparative Example 4.

[0136] Test method: Evaluate the moisturizing effect of the product by measuring the water content of the skin's stratum corneum.

[0137] The moisture content change rate refers to the change rate of skin moisture content after using the product compared to before use. A positive value indicates an increase in moisture content and skin moisture is improved, while a negative value indicates a decrease in moisture content and skin moisture is reduced.

[0138] The test results are shown in Table 9.

[0139] Table 9

[0140]

[0141] From the test results in Table 9, it can be seen that in the first group, 7 days after use, the water content of Example 1 increased by 14.59%; the water content of Comparative Example 4 increased by 7.82%. 14 days after use, the water content of Example 1 increased by 20.63%, and the water content of Comparative Example 4 increased by 12.47%.

[0142] In the second group, 7 days after use, the water content of Example 2 increased by 28.62%; the water content of Comparative Example 4 increased by 11.15%. 14 days after use, the water content of Example 2 increased by 33.37%, and the water content of Comparative Example 4 increased by 15.16%.

[0143] In the third group, 7 days after use, the water content of Example 3 increased by 32.38%; the water content of Comparative Example 4 increased by 9.85%. 14 days after use, the water content of Example 3 increased by 36.07%, and the water content of Comparative Example 4 increased by 14.93%.

[0144] (2) Evaluation of firming effect

[0145] Test samples: microemulsion essence water prepared in Examples 1-3 and ordinary essence water prepared in Comparative Example 4.

[0146] Test method: Under the conditions of temperature 21±1℃ and humidity 50±10%, the subjects clean their faces and wait for 20 minutes before measuring the elasticity of their faces (R2 value) to comprehensively evaluate the firming effect of the product on human skin.

[0147] The elasticity (R2 value) change rate refers to the change rate of skin elasticity after using the product compared to before use. A positive value indicates that the ratio of the maximum stretch displacement of the skin increases, and the skin elasticity is better. A negative value indicates that the ratio of the maximum stretch displacement of the skin decreases, and the skin elasticity is worse.

[0148] Result determination: If the change in the instrument test parameter (elasticity R2 value) at any visit point before and after using the product shows improvement, the product is deemed to have a firming effect; otherwise, the product is deemed not to have a firming effect.

[0149] The test results are shown in Table 10.

[0150] Table 10

[0151]

[0152]

[0153] From the elasticity (R2) test results in Table 10, it can be seen that in the first group, 7 days after use, the skin elasticity (R2) value of Example 1 increased by 5.13%; the skin elasticity (R2) value of Comparative Example 4 increased by 1.66%; 14 days after use, the skin elasticity (R2) value of Example 1 increased by 7.05%, and the skin elasticity (R2) value of Comparative Example 4 increased by 2.93%.

[0154] In the second group, 7 days after use, the skin elasticity (R2) value of Example 2 increased by 7.16%; the skin elasticity (R2) value of Comparative Example 4 increased by 2.34%; 14 days after use, the skin elasticity (R2) value of Example 2 increased by 12.17%, and the skin elasticity (R2) value of Comparative Example 4 increased by 2.75%.

[0155] In the third group, 7 days after use, the skin elasticity (R2) value of Example 3 increased by 6.22%; the skin elasticity (R2) value of Comparative Example 4 increased by 2.24%; 14 days after use, the skin elasticity (R2) value of Example 3 increased by 8.53%, and the skin elasticity (R2) value of Comparative Example 4 increased by 3.61%.

[0156] From the above results, it can be seen that the microemulsion essence water prepared in Examples 1-3 using microemulsion technology has better moisturizing and firming effects than Comparative Example 4 without microemulsion technology; in particular, the firming effect is significantly improved, showing that microemulsion technology can improve the utilization rate of the biological activity of active substances, such as improving the utilization rate of palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, acetyl hexapeptide-8 and carnosine in the present invention. Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, acetyl hexapeptide-8 and carnosine are used as anti-wrinkle and firming agents in the present invention. Although Comparative Example 4 also contains these substances, the effect is obviously not as good as the firming effect of the present invention.

[0157] In summary, the ceramide-containing microemulsion essence water of the present invention is not only non-irritating to the skin, but also has low viscosity, long-term stability, refreshing skin feel, and excellent moisturizing and firming effects. The present invention can improve the utilization rate of active substances, and the active substances at the same concentration can exert better effects, solving the problems of poor effects of ordinary essence water / essence liquid on the market and sticky and unrefreshing creams. In addition, the low-energy emulsification technology is used to make the production process simpler and more efficient, and mass production is achieved.

[0158] The preferred embodiments of the present invention are specifically described above, but the invention is not limited to the embodiments. Those skilled in the art may make various equivalent modifications or substitutions without violating the spirit of the invention. These equivalent modifications or substitutions are all included in the scope defined by the claims of this application.

Claims

1. A microemulsion essence water, characterized in that: The microemulsion essence water comprises the following components: an emulsifier, a moisturizer, a polypeptide, a small molecule oil and water; the emulsifier comprises polyglyceryl-10 oleate, the emulsifier does not contain PEG and / or PPG structure, the moisturizer comprises glycerin and ceramide, and the small molecule oil comprises at least one of tridecane, undecane, isononyl isononanoate, propylheptyl octanoate, coconut oil alcohol-caprylate / caprate, dicaprylyl carbonate and dicaprylyl ether.

2. The microemulsion essence water according to claim 1, characterized in that: The content of polyglycerol-10 oleate in the microemulsion essence water is 3wt%-5wt%; and / or, the content of glycerol in the microemulsion essence water is 8wt%-30wt%; and / or, the content of small molecule oil in the microemulsion essence water is 1wt%-7wt%.

3. The microemulsion essence water according to claim 1, characterized in that: The ceramide includes ceramide NP and / or ceramide E.

4. The microemulsion essence water according to claim 1, characterized in that: The moisturizer further includes at least one of butylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, panthenol and sodium hyaluronate.

5. The microemulsion essence water according to claim 1, characterized in that: The polypeptide includes at least one of palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, acetyl hexapeptide-8 and carnosine.

6. The microemulsion essence water according to claim 1, characterized in that: The microemulsion essence water also includes a chelating agent and / or an antioxidant.

7. The method for preparing the microemulsion essence water according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that: The following steps are involved: The polyglycerol-10 oleate, glycerin and ceramide are mixed, heated and stirred to obtain a mixture A; heating the small molecule oil and stirring to obtain an oil phase; Mixing the water and the remaining moisturizer, heating, and stirring to obtain an aqueous phase; The mixture A, the oil phase and the water phase are mixed and stirred to obtain a mixture B; After the mixture B is cooled, it is mixed with the polypeptide and stirred to obtain the microemulsion essence water.

8. The preparation method according to claim 7, characterized in that: The heating temperature is 55-70°C.

9. The preparation method according to claim 7, characterized in that: The stirring speed is 5-20 rpm; and / or the stirring time is 3-30 min.

10. The preparation method according to claim 7, characterized in that: A chelating agent and / or an antioxidant are also added to the aqueous phase.

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