One-way moisture-conducting simulated shuttle-woven warp-knitted lining fabric and production process

Abstract

The application discloses a one-way moisture-conducting imitated shuttle-weaving warp-knitting lining fabric and a production process, and belongs to the field of textile technology. The application is characterized by the following: three guide bars and a lining device, namely GB1, GB2, GB3 and MS1, are arranged on a warp-knitting machine, GB1 forms a loop, GB2 and GB3 do not form a loop, and MS1 adopts full-width lining; GB1 and MS1 adopt hydrophobic yarn; GB2 and GB3 adopt hydrophilic yarn; GB1 is fully threaded and adopts two or more needle flat knitting, and forms a bottom layer by reverse lapping; MS1 is fully threaded, GB2 and GB3 are alternately threaded and unthreaded, the unthreaded portions are complementary, the lining structure change and the bottom layer form an "avoiding lapping effect", the hydrophilic and hydrophobic properties of the yarns on the front and back surfaces of the fabric are different, a wetting gradient is formed, and the one-way moisture-conducting effect is achieved. Test results show that the horizontal and vertical water washing size change rates of the one-way moisture-conducting imitated shuttle-weaving warp-knitting lining fabric are both less than or equal to 1%, and the one-way moisture-conducting index reaches level 3 or above.

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD

[0001] The present application relates to a one-way moisture-conducting simulated woven warp-knitted lining fabric and a production process, and belongs to the technical field of textiles. BACKGROUND

[0002] Lining fabric is a main auxiliary material in the garment industry, which is applied to the inner layer of garments to play the roles of shape retention, stiffness, reinforcement, and aesthetics. Nowadays, non-woven lining fabric is widely used due to its simple production process and low price, but it has problems such as poor water resistance, poor fastness, and poor shape retention. Woven lining fabric has the advantages of strong tension, water resistance, and less deformation, but it is more expensive than non-woven lining fabric due to its complex production process and low yield. As an auxiliary material for garments, the stability of the shape and size of the lining fabric is the primary condition, so it is very important to produce lining fabric with stable longitudinal and lateral dimensions. Moreover, with the improvement of living quality, there is an increasing demand for functional lining fabric, but non-woven lining fabric and woven lining fabric have a hard hand feeling and poor air and moisture permeability. The existing lining fabric improves the air and moisture permeability by coating the fabric or opening heat dissipation holes on the surface of the lining fabric, but the coating makes the fabric feel hard and not resistant to washing, and the heat dissipation holes are sealed due to the close contact between the fabric and the lining caused by human movement, so the lining fabric does not have good ventilation and heat dissipation performance. Cotton lining fabric can solve the above problems, but it also brings problems such as easy wrinkling, poor fabric elasticity, and poor shape retention, which is contrary to the original intention of using lining fabric.

[0003] Therefore, it is an urgent problem in the field to design a lining fabric with stable size, good air and moisture permeability, soft hand feeling, high yield, low cost, and certain shape retention. SUMMARY

[0004]

TECHNICAL PROBLEM

[0005] Traditional lining fabric has poor air and moisture permeability, non-woven lining fabric is not resistant to washing and has poor size stability, and woven lining fabric has a complex production process and high cost.

[0006]

TECHNICAL SCHEME

[0007] In order to improve the shortcomings of the existing lining fabric, the application discloses a one-way wet guiding imitated woven warp-knitted lining fabric and a production process, and the production method is simple, warp-knitting is adopted, and full-width lining weft is combined, so that the lining fabric has excellent size stability; the front process adopts hydrophobic yarn, the back process adopts hydrophilic yarn, one-way wet guiding is formed, and the lining fabric has air-permeable and moisture-permeable properties. The application provides a one-way wet guiding imitated woven warp-knitted lining fabric and a production process, the fabric adopts polyester filament (polypropylene, polyamide, water-repellent cotton, acrylic, PBT or hydrophobic fibers treated by water-repellent treatment) and polyester-cotton blended yarn (cotton, hemp, wool, viscose, Cooldry filament, cashmere polyester blended yarn, cashmere polyamide blended yarn or hydrophilic yarn treated by hydrophilic finishing) as raw materials, warp-knitted lining fabric is formed by using three different structure of guide bars and combining full-width lining weft MSU, the front and back of the lining fabric are different in hydrophobicity and hydrophilicity, a wetting gradient is formed, and one-way wet guiding function is realized. Through testing, the horizontal and vertical water washing size change rates of the one-way wet guiding imitated woven warp-knitted lining fabric designed by the application are all less than or equal to 1%, and the one-way wet guiding index reaches level 3 or above.

[0008] A first object of the application is to provide a method for preparing a one-way wet guiding warp-knitted fabric, the fabric being knitted on a warp-knitting machine, the warp-knitting machine being provided with three guide bars and a lining weft device: GB1, GB2, GB3, MS1, GB1 forming loops, GB2 and GB3 not forming loops, and MS1 being full-width lining weft; GB1 and MS1 using hydrophobic yarn; GB2 and GB3 using hydrophilic yarn; wherein the guide bar GB1 is full threading, two or more needle flat knitting is adopted, and reverse lapping is adopted to form a bottom layer; the full-width lining weft MS1 is full threading, the guide bars GB2 and GB3 are one threading and one empty threading, the empty threadings are complementary, the lining weft structure change and the bottom layer are used to form an "avoiding lapping effect", the yarns on the front and back of the fabric are different in hydrophobicity and hydrophilicity, a wetting gradient is formed, and the effect of one-way wet guiding is formed.

[0009] In an embodiment of the application, the one-way wet guiding imitated woven warp-knitted lining fabric has a three-layer structure, and each layer and yarn are configured as follows: the fabric is knitted on a tricot warp-knitting machine, the warp-knitting machine is provided with three guide bars and a lining weft device: GB1, GB2, GB3, MS1, GB1 forming loops, GB2 and GB3 not forming loops, and MS1 being full-width lining weft.

[0010] In an embodiment of the present application, the guide bar GB1 is full, polyester filament (polypropylene, nylon, water-repellent cotton, acrylic, PBT or hydrophobic fibers treated with water-repellent) is used, two or more needles are used for plain weave, and the bottom layer is formed by reverse lapping; the full width lining MS1 is full, polyester yarn (polypropylene, nylon, water-repellent cotton, acrylic, PBT or hydrophobic yarn treated with water-repellent) is used to form the second layer; the guide bars GB2 and GB3 are used to pass polyester cotton blended yarn (cotton, hemp, wool, viscose, Cooldry filament, cashmere polyester blend, cashmere nylon blend or hydrophilic yarn treated with hydrophilic finishing), one full and one empty, and the empty one is complementary, forming the third layer, using the lining weave change and the bottom layer to form the "avoiding lapping effect", that is, the lining yarns passed by GB2 and GB3 run from the inner layer to the surface of GB1 because GB1 has no extension line, thus forming the process front polyester yarn (polypropylene, nylon, water-repellent cotton, acrylic, PBT or hydrophobic yarn treated with water-repellent) and the process back polyester cotton blended yarn (cotton, hemp, wool, viscose, Cooldry filament, cashmere polyester blend, cashmere nylon blend or hydrophilic yarn treated with hydrophilic finishing) are exposed, because the process front and back yarns have different hydrophilic and hydrophobic properties, a wetting gradient is formed, thus forming the effect of single-sided moisture conduction.

[0011] In an embodiment of the present application, the hydrophobic yarn refers to a yarn with a moisture regain of less than 4.5% and weak moisture absorption, including semi-lustrous polyester filament (polypropylene, nylon, water-repellent cotton, acrylic, PBT or hydrophobic fibers treated with water-repellent).

[0012] In an embodiment of the present application, the hydrophilic yarn refers to the ability of the yarn to absorb water and transport water to adjacent yarns, including polyester cotton blended yarn (cotton, hemp, wool, viscose, Cooldry filament, cashmere polyester blend, cashmere nylon blend or hydrophilic yarn treated with hydrophilic finishing).

[0013] In an embodiment of the present application, the selection and threading method of GB1 when warping and weaving are as follows: GB1 comb: 1-2 / 1-0 / / , full threading; (or 2-3 / 1-0 / / , 3-4 / 1-0 / / multi-needle plain, full threading).

[0014] In an embodiment of the present application, the selection and threading method of single comb structure when warping and weaving are as follows:

[0015] GB2 comb: 1-1 / 1-1 / 0-0 / 0-0 / / ;

[0016] GB3 comb: 0-0 / 0-0 / 1-1 / 1-1 / / ;

[0017] MS1: full width lining, full threading.

[0018] In one embodiment of the present invention, the method includes the following steps:

[0019] 1) Material selection: Select semi-dull polyester filament (polypropylene, nylon, water-repellent cotton, acrylic, PBT or other hydrophobic fibers treated with water repellency), semi-dull polyester DTY (polypropylene, nylon, water-repellent cotton, acrylic, PBT or other hydrophobic yarns treated with water repellency), and polyester-cotton blends (cotton, linen, wool, viscose, coolry filament, cashmere-polyester blend, cashmere-nylon blend or hydrophilic yarns treated with hydrophilicity) as raw materials;

[0020] 2) Warping: Semi-dull polyester filament (polypropylene, nylon, water-repellent cotton, acrylic, PBT or other hydrophobic fibers treated with water repellency), semi-dull polyester DTY (polypropylene, nylon, water-repellent cotton, acrylic, PBT or other hydrophobic yarns treated with water repellency), and polyester-cotton blends (cotton, linen, wool, viscose, coolry filament, cashmere-polyester blend, cashmere-nylon blend or hydrophilic yarns treated with hydrophilicity) are warped on a warping machine according to the requirements of width, yarn density and threading rate, with a certain number of heads.

[0021] 3) Weaving: Weaving is carried out using a Trico warp knitting machine with full-width weft insertion;

[0022] 4) Finishing: ① Washing; ② Setting; ③ Dyeing and finishing; ④ Tightening; ⑤ Drying;

[0023] 5) Testing and packaging.

[0024] The selection of single-comb weave structure and yarn threading method during warping and weaving are as follows:

[0025] GB1 comb: 1-2 / 1-0 / / , full thread; (or 2-3 / 1-0 / / , 3-4 / 1-0 / / multi-needle warp flat, full thread);

[0026] GB2 comb: 1-1 / 1-1 / 0-0 / 0-0 / / ;

[0027] GB3 comb: 0-0 / 0-0 / 1-1 / 1-1 / / ;

[0028] MS1: Full weft insertion, full thread;

[0029] In one embodiment of the present invention, the machine model is a Trico warp knitting machine HKS3MSU with full-width weft insertion;

[0030] In an embodiment of the present application, the yarns and the guide bars are matched as follows: GB1 adopts semi-lustrous polyester filament (hydrophobic fibers such as polypropylene, polyamide, water-repellent cotton, acrylic, PBT or water-repellent treated fibers); GB2 and GB3 adopt polyester-cotton blended yarn (hydrophilic yarns such as cotton, hemp, wool, viscose, Cooldry filament, cashmere-polyester blended yarn, cashmere-polyamide blended yarn or hydrophilic treated yarn); and MS1 adopts semi-lustrous polyester DTY (hydrophobic yarns such as polypropylene, polyamide, water-repellent cotton, acrylic, PBT or water-repellent treated fibers).

[0031] In an embodiment of the present application, the semi-lustrous polyester filament (hydrophobic fibers such as polypropylene, polyamide, water-repellent cotton, acrylic, PBT or water-repellent treated fibers) is any one of 30D-100D; the polyester-cotton blended yarn (hydrophilic yarns such as cotton, hemp, wool, viscose, Cooldry filament, cashmere-polyester blended yarn, cashmere-polyamide blended yarn or hydrophilic treated yarn) is any one of 30s-60s; and the semi-lustrous polyester DTY (hydrophobic yarns such as polypropylene, polyamide, water-repellent cotton, acrylic, PBT or water-repellent treated fibers) is any one of 50D-200D / 36f-144f.

[0032] In an embodiment of the present application, the warp-knitted lining fabric is produced at high speed by a warp-knitting machine, so that the yield is improved and the cost is reduced.

[0033] In an embodiment of the present application, the wetting gradient is formed mainly by the difference in hydrophilicity and hydrophobicity of the yarns on the front and back surfaces of the lining fabric, so that the one-way wetting function is realized.

[0034] In an embodiment of the present application, the warp-knitted lining fabric with one-way wetting has a grammage of 90-200g / m2.

[0035] A second object of the present application is to provide a one-way wetting warp-knitted fabric prepared by the above method.

[0036] A third object of the present application is to provide a one-way wetting warp-knitted fabric, which comprises a front surface and a back surface, the fabric structure of the front surface is warp plain weave, the fabric structure of the back surface is lining weft weave, the front surface and the back surface are connected by the loop of GB1, the front surface adopts hydrophobic yarn, and the back surface adopts hydrophilic fabric. Due to the difference in hydrophilicity and hydrophobicity of the yarns on the front and back surfaces, a wetting gradient is formed, so that the one-way wetting effect is realized.

[0037] In an embodiment of the present application, the hydrophobic yarn refers to yarn with a moisture regain of less than 4.5% and weak moisture absorption, including semi-lustrous polyester filament (hydrophobic fibers such as polypropylene, polyamide, water-repellent cotton, acrylic, PBT or water-repellent treated fibers).

[0038] In one embodiment of the present application, the hydrophilic yarn refers to the ability of the yarn to absorb moisture and transport the moisture to the adjacent yarn, including polyester-cotton blended yarn (cotton, hemp, wool, viscose, Cooldry filament, cashmere-polyester blend, cashmere-polyamide blend, or hydrophilic yarn after hydrophilic finishing, etc.

[0039] The fourth object of the present application is to provide a one-way moisture-conducting warp backing fabric, which is made of the above-mentioned one-way moisture-conducting warp fabric.

[0040] The fifth object of the present application is to provide a garment containing the above-mentioned one-way moisture-conducting warp fabric.

[0041] The beneficial effects of the present application are:

[0042] (1) The present application uses warp backing fabric. The warp fabric has excellent longitudinal dimensional stability due to the longitudinal loop structure, and the full-width backing weft strengthens the stability in the transverse direction, making it have the characteristics of the transverse structure of woven fabric. The warp backing fabric can be produced at high speed by a warp knitting machine, which can improve the yield and reduce the cost.

[0043] (2) The present application uses GB1 as the base comb, full polyester filament (polypropylene, polyamide, water-repellent cotton, acrylic, PBT, or hydrophobic fibers treated with water-repellent), and adopts two or more needle flat knitting to form the base fabric. GB2 and GB3 are polyester-cotton blended yarn (cotton, hemp, wool, viscose, Cooldry filament, cashmere-polyester blend, cashmere-polyamide blend, or hydrophilic yarn after hydrophilic finishing, etc.), which forms an "avoiding padding effect" with the base loop structure by changing the number of needles crossed by the backing weft, so that the polyester-cotton blended yarn (cotton, hemp, wool, viscose, Cooldry filament, cashmere-polyester blend, cashmere-polyamide blend, or hydrophilic yarn after hydrophilic finishing, etc.) is exposed.

[0044] (3) The present application provides a one-way moisture-conducting warp backing fabric and a production process. The fabric uses polyester filament (polypropylene, polyamide, water-repellent cotton, acrylic, PBT, or hydrophobic fibers treated with water-repellent) and polyester-cotton blended yarn (cotton, hemp, wool, viscose, Cooldry filament, cashmere-polyester blend, cashmere-polyamide blend, or hydrophilic yarn after hydrophilic finishing, etc.) as raw materials, and uses the different organizational structures of three combs combined with full-width backing weft MSU to form the warp backing fabric. The fabric forms a wetting gradient by using the different hydrophilic and hydrophobic properties of the front and back sides of the backing fabric, and further realizes the one-way moisture-conducting function.

[0045] (4) The test shows that the transverse and longitudinal water washing dimensional change rates of the one-way moisture-conducting warp backing fabric designed in the present application are both ≤1%, and the one-way moisture-conducting index reaches level 3 and above. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS

[0046] Figure 1This is a schematic diagram illustrating the dodging padding effect of the present invention. a represents the ideal position of the float, and b represents the actual position of the float.

[0047] Figure 2 The diagram shows the movement of the weave and padding yarns for the comb bars of unidirectional moisture-wicking imitation woven warp-knitted interlining fabrics (GB1~GB3, MS1).

[0048] Figure 3 This is a schematic diagram of the unidirectional hygroscopic effect.

[0049] Figure 4 This is a photograph of a unidirectional moisture-wicking imitation woven warp-knitted interlining fabric.

[0050] Figure 5 This is a microstructure diagram of a unidirectional moisture-wicking woven warp-knitted interlining fabric. In the diagram, 1 and 2 are hydrophobic yarns, and 3 and 4 are hydrophilic yarns. Detailed Implementation

[0051] The preferred embodiments of the present invention are described below. It should be understood that the embodiments are for better explanation of the present invention and are not intended to limit the present invention.

[0052] 1. Dimensional stability test method:

[0053] Dimensional stability is reflected by the shrinkage rate after washing. The requirements for dimensional change after washing shall be in accordance with FZ / T64025—2011, with the longitudinal dimensional change rate being -2.0% to 0.5% and the transverse dimensional change rate being -1.5% to 0.5%.

[0054] 2. Moisture-wicking performance test method:

[0055] The test methods are all GB / T 21655.2—2019 "Evaluation of the moisture absorption and quick-drying properties of textiles - Part 2: Dynamic moisture transfer method", and the unidirectional moisture wicking index must be ≥3.

[0056] Example 1:

[0057] A unidirectional moisture-wicking imitation woven warp-knitted interlining fabric and its production process are composed of the following mass percentages: 8.9% 30D24f semi-dull polyester FDY, 47.2% 30s polyester-cotton blended yarn, and 43.9% 150D96f semi-dull polyester yarn DTY.

[0058] The fabric preparation process is as follows: the specific process flow of each process is as follows: including the selection and matching of each comb structure, preparation process, warping, weaving, and finishing.

[0059] 1) Material selection: 150D96f semi-dull polyester yarn (DTY), 30D24f semi-dull polyester filament (FDY), and 30s polyester-cotton blended yarn are selected as raw materials;

[0060] 2) Winding: according to the width of 168 cm, the weft density is 9.4 wpc, GB1 and MS1 are 100% of the winding rate, GB2 is 1:1 of the winding rate, and GB3 is 1:1 of the winding rate. According to the process requirements, the winding head fraction is calculated: GB1 and MS1 are both 8x714, and GB2 and GB3 are both 8x357.

[0061] The winding site temperature is 25±1℃, and the relative humidity is 65±5%. Higher and stable temperature and humidity help to stabilize the twist of polyester and polyester cotton and make the surface soft, avoid the entanglement between yarns, and benefit the production of warp-knitted products.

[0062] 3) Weaving: using a tricot warp knitting machine;

[0063] Machine type: tricot warp knitting machine HKS 3MSU

[0064] Machine gauge: 24 needles

[0065] Machine width: 186 inches

[0066] Warp-knitted structure:

[0067] GB1 comb: 1-2 / 1-0 / / ;

[0068] GB2 comb: 1-1 / 1-1 / 0-0 / 0-0 / / ;

[0069] GB3 comb: 0-0 / 0-0 / 1-1 / 1-1 / / ;

[0070] MS1: full-width weft insertion;

[0071] Raw materials and threading methods:

[0072] GB1 comb: 30D24f semi-dull polyester filament FDY, full threading;

[0073] GB2 comb: 30s polyester cotton blended yarn, 1:1 threading;

[0074] GB3 comb: 30s polyester cotton blended yarn, 1:1 threading;

[0075] MS1: 150D96f semi-dull polyester yarn DTY, full threading;

[0076] Enter the structure of the mat yarn number, let-off amount, and drawing density into the computer display screen of the control cabinet, save it, load the machine file, and then start the machine. After weaving, the gray fabric is weighed, bagged, and stored in the warehouse.

[0077] 4) Finishing: ① washing; ② setting; ③ dyeing and finishing; ④ tensioning; ⑤ drying;

[0078] 5) Inspection and packaging.

[0079] After the above process, the unidirectional moisture-wicking imitation woven warp-knitted lining fabric of the embodiment can be obtained.

[0080] The specific parameters of the process of the embodiment are shown in Table 1.

[0081] Table 1

[0082]

[0083]

[0084] Embodiment 2

[0085] A unidirectional moisture-wicking imitation woven warp-knitted lining fabric and a production process thereof are composed of 30D24f semi-light polyester FDY 9.5%, 30s polyester-cotton blended yarn 46.9%, and 150D96f semi-light polyester yarn DTY 43.6%.

[0086] The preparation process of the fabric is as follows: the specific process of each process includes selection of each guide bar structure, preparation process, warping, weaving, and finishing.

[0087] 1) Material selection: 150D96f semi-light polyester yarn DTY, 30D24f semi-light polyester filament FDY, and 30s polyester-cotton blended yarn are selected as raw materials;

[0088] 2) Warping: according to the width of 168 cm and the weft density of 9.4 wpc, GB1 and MS1 have a threading rate of 100%, GB2 has a threading rate of 1 thread 1 empty, and GB3 has a threading rate of 1 empty 1 thread, etc. Process requirements, the warping head fraction is calculated: GB1 and MS1 are both 8x714, and GB2 and GB3 are both 8x357.

[0089] The warping site temperature is 25±1℃, and the relative humidity is 65±5%. Higher and stable temperature and humidity are conducive to the twist stability and surface softness of polyester and polyester-cotton, avoiding entanglement between yarns, and are beneficial to the production of warp-knitted products.

[0090] 3) Weaving: a tricot warp knitting machine is used for weaving;

[0091] Machine type: tricot warp knitting machine HKS 3MSU

[0092] Machine gauge: 24 needles

[0093] Machine width: 186 inches

[0094] Warp-knitting structure:

[0095] GB1 comb: 2-3 / 1-0 / / ;

[0096] GB2 comb: 1-1 / 1-1 / 0-0 / 0-0 / / ;

[0097] GB3 comb: 0-0 / 0-0 / 1-1 / 1-1 / / ;

[0098] MS1: Full-width weft insertion;

[0099] Raw materials and yarn threading method:

[0100] GB1 comb: 30D24f semi-dull polyester filament FDY, full weave;

[0101] GB2 comb: 30s polyester-cotton blended yarn, 1 thread and 1 hole;

[0102] GB3 comb: 30s polyester-cotton blended yarn, 1 hole 1 thread;

[0103] MS1: 150D96f semi-dull polyester yarn DTY, full wear;

[0104] Input the weaving pattern, warp feed amount, and draft density into the computer display screen of the control cabinet, save the data, load the machine file, and then start the machine. After weaving, the raw fabric is obtained, weighed, bagged, and stored in the warehouse.

[0105] 4) Finishing: ① Washing; ② Setting; ③ Dyeing and finishing; ④ Tightening; ⑤ Drying;

[0106] 5) Testing and packaging.

[0107] Through the above processes, the unidirectional moisture-wicking imitation woven warp-knitted interlining fabric of this embodiment can be obtained.

[0108] The specific parameters of the process in this embodiment are shown in Table 2.

[0109] Table 2

[0110]

[0111] Example 3

[0112] like Figure 5 As shown, a unidirectional moisture-wicking warp-knitted fabric includes a front and a back. The front fabric has a plain warp and full-width weft-inserted structure; the back fabric has a weft-inserted structure. The front and back are connected by GB1 loops. The front uses polyester filament (polypropylene, nylon, water-repellent cotton, acrylic, PBT, or other hydrophobic fibers treated with water repellency), and the back uses polyester-cotton blended yarn (cotton, linen, wool, viscose, coolory filament, cashmere-polyester blend, cashmere-nylon blend, or hydrophilic yarn treated with hydrophilicity). Due to the difference in hydrophilicity and hydrophobicity between the front and back yarns, a wetting gradient is formed, thus creating a unidirectional moisture-wicking effect.

[0113] The fabric is prepared using the process described in Example 1.

[0114] Comparative Example 1

[0115] A one-way moisture-conducting warp-knitted fabric and production process is composed of the following mass percentages: 30D 24f semi-dull polyester FDY is 8.9%, 30s polyester-cotton blended yarn is 47.2%, and 150D 96f semi-dull polyester yarn DTY is 43.9%.

[0116] 1) Material selection: 150D 96f semi-dull polyester DTY, 30D semi-dull polyester filament FDY, and 160D 108f semi-dull polyester yarn are used as raw materials;

[0117] 2) Beaming: according to the width of 168 cm and the weft density of 9.4 wpc, GB1 and MS1 have a threading rate of 100%, GB2 has a threading rate of 1 thread 1 space, and GB3 has a threading rate of 1 space 1 thread, etc. The beaming head fraction is calculated as follows: GB1 and MS1 are both 8x714, and GB2 and GB3 are both 8x357.

[0118] The beaming site temperature is 25±1℃, and the relative humidity is 65±5%. Higher and stable temperature and humidity help to stabilize the twist of polyester and make the surface soft, avoid entanglement between yarns, and benefit the production of warp-knitted products.

[0119] 3) Weaving: Tricot warp knitting machine is used for weaving;

[0120] Machine type: Tricot warp knitting machine HKS 3MSU

[0121] Machine gauge: 24 needles

[0122] Machine width: 186 inches

[0123] Warp-knitted fabric structure:

[0124] GB1 comb: 1-2 / 1-0 / / ;

[0125] GB2 comb: 1-1 / 1-1 / 0-0 / 0-0 / / ;

[0126] GB3 comb: 0-0 / 0-0 / 1-1 / 1-1 / / ;

[0127] MS1: full-width weft insertion;

[0128] Raw materials and threading methods:

[0129] GB1 comb: 30D semi-dull polyester filament FDY, full threading;

[0130] GB2 comb: 160D 108f semi-dull polyester yarn DTY, 1 thread 1 space;

[0131] GB3 comb: 160D108f semi-dull polyester yarn DTY, 1 empty 1 pass;

[0132] MS1: 150D96f semi-dull polyester yarn DTY, full pass;

[0133] Enter the tissue pad yarn number, let-off amount and pulling density into the computer display screen of the control cabinet, save and load the machine file, and then start the machine. After weaving, the rough cloth is obtained, weighed, bagged, and stored in the warehouse.

[0134] 4) Finishing: ① washing; ② setting; ③ dyeing and finishing; ④ tensioning; ⑤ drying;

[0135] 5) Inspection and packaging.

[0136] After the above process, the unidirectional moisture-wicking mock-shuttle-woven warp-knitted lining fabric of the embodiment is obtained.

[0137] The specific parameters of the process of the embodiment are shown in Table 3.

[0138] Table 3

[0139]

[0140] Comparative Example 2:

[0141] A unidirectional moisture-wicking mock-shuttle-woven warp-knitted lining fabric and production process are composed of the following mass percentages: 30D24f semi-dull polyester FDY is 15.79%, and 32s polyester-cotton blended yarn is 84.21%.

[0142] 1) Material selection: 30D semi-dull polyester filament FDY and 32s polyester-cotton blended yarn are used as raw materials;

[0143] 2) Beaming: according to the width of 168 cm and the weft density of 9.4 wpc, the beaming head fraction is calculated to be: GB1 is 8×714, GB2 and GB3 are both 8×357, according to the process requirements that the GB1, MS1 pass rate is 100%, the GB2 pass rate is 1 pass 1 empty, and the GB3 pass rate is 1 empty 1 pass.

[0144] The beaming site temperature is 25±1℃, and the relative humidity is 65±5%. Higher and stable temperature and humidity are conducive to the twist stability and surface softness of polyester, avoiding entanglement between yarns, and are beneficial to the production of warp-knitted products.

[0145] 3) Weaving: using a tricot warp knitting machine for weaving;

[0146] Machine type: tricot warp knitting machine HKS 3

[0147] Machine number: 24 needles

[0148] Machine width: 186 inches

[0149] Warp knitting structure:

[0150] GB1 comb: 1-2 / 1-0 / / ;

[0151] GB2 comb: 1-1 / 1-1 / 0-0 / 0-0 / / ;

[0152] GB3 comb: 0-0 / 0-0 / 1-1 / 1-1 / / ;

[0153] Raw materials and threading method:

[0154] GB1 comb: 30D semi-lustrous polyester filament FDY, full threading;

[0155] GB2 comb: 32s polyester-cotton blended yarn, 1 threading 1 empty;

[0156] GB3 comb: 32s polyester-cotton blended yarn, 1 empty 1 threading;

[0157] Input the structure winding number, let-off amount and drawing density, etc. into the computer display screen of the control cabinet, save and load the machine file, and then start the machine. After weaving, the rough cloth is obtained, weighed, bagged, and stored in the warehouse.

[0158] 4) Finishing: ① washing; ② setting; ③ dyeing and finishing; ④ tensioning; ⑤ drying;

[0159] 5) Detection and packaging.

[0160] After the above process, the unidirectional moisture-wicking imitation shuttle-woven warp-knitted base cloth fabric of the embodiment can be obtained.

[0161] The specific parameters of the process of the embodiment are shown in Table 4.

[0162] Table 4

[0163]

[0164]

[0165] Comparative Example 1 changed the material of GB2 and GB3 from polyester-cotton to polyester, and the formed lining fabric could not form a certain difference in hydrophilic and hydrophobic properties of two sides due to poor moisture absorption of polyester, so it could not form the one-way wetting effect. The one-way wetting warp-knitted lining fabric was prepared according to the method of Example 1, with the difference that Comparative Example 2 omitted the full-width lining weft knitting step of MS1, and other conditions were the same as those of Example 1. Compared with Example 1, the water washing dimensional change rate of Comparative Example 2 decreased by 4.8% after the full-width lining weft knitting step of MS1 was omitted, the dimensional stability of the fabric was poor, and the one-way wetting index was 2, which did not reach the standard. This shows that the full-width lining weft knitting step can not only strengthen the transverse stability, but also improve the wetting performance.

[0166] Table 5

[0167]

[0168] As shown in Table 5, the dimensional stability of Comparative Example 1 was the best, because polyester is a chemical fiber, and the water washing shrinkage is small. The polyester-cotton blended yarn contains cotton, and the water washing shrinkage of cotton is large after washing, so the dimensional stability of Comparative Example 1 is the best, and the dimensional stability of Comparative Example 2 is the worst. The warp-knitted fabric has excellent longitudinal dimensional stability due to the longitudinal loop structure, and the full-width lining weft knitting strengthens the transverse stability, so the dimensional stability of Examples 1 and 2 is obviously improved, but the stability of Example 2 decreases by 0.2% due to the longer float. The one-way wetting effect of Example 1 is the best, because the difference in hydrophilic and hydrophobic properties of the yarns on the process front and back sides forms a wetting gradient, realizing the one-way wetting function. The one-way wetting function of Example 2 decreases slightly compared with Example 1, because the change in the number of laps changes the float into a larger area, which makes the one-way wetting function decrease slightly. Comparative Examples 1 and 2 do not have the one-way wetting function. In Comparative Example 1, the material of GB2 and GB3 is changed from polyester-cotton to polyester, and the formed lining fabric could not form a certain difference in hydrophilic and hydrophobic properties of two sides due to poor moisture absorption of polyester, so it could not form the one-way wetting effect. In Comparative Example 2, the full-width lining weft knitting is omitted, so that the process front side lacks sufficient hydrophobic yarns, and the hydrophobic fiber of GB1 is too thin to form a wetting gradient with the process back side, so it forms one-way wetting, but the lining fabric becomes sparse and the gap becomes large due to the lack of full-width lining weft knitting, so the index is one level higher than that of Comparative Example 1.

[0169] Although the present application has been disclosed with reference to the preferred embodiments, it is not intended to limit the present application, and any person skilled in the art can make various modifications and modifications without departing from the spirit and scope of the present application, so the protection scope of the present application should be defined by the claims.

Claims

1. A method of making a unidirectional moisture conducting warp knit fabric, characterized by, The fabric is knitted on a warp knitting machine, which is equipped with three guide bars and a filling device: GB1, GB2, GB3, MS1, GB1 forms loops, GB2 and GB3 do not form loops, and MS1 is full-width filling; GB1 and MS1 use hydrophobic yarns; GB2 and GB3 use hydrophilic yarns; The guide bar GB1 is full, and two or more needle flat knits are used to form the bottom layer by reverse lapping; the full-width filling MS1 is full, and the guide bars GB2 and GB3 are one full and one empty, the empty ones are complementary, and the "avoiding lapping effect" is formed by using the filling structure change and the bottom layer; the yarns on the front and back of the fabric are different in hydrophobicity and hydrophilicity, forming a wetting gradient, thereby forming the effect of one-way wetting; The hydrophobic yarn refers to a yarn with a moisture regain of less than 4.5%, and the hydrophilic yarn refers to the ability of the yarn to absorb water and transport water to adjacent yarns; The single guide structure selection and threading method during warping and weaving are as follows: GB1 guide: 1-2 / 1-0 / / , full threading; or, 2-3 / 1-0 / / , 3-4 / 1-0 / / multiple needle flat, full threading; GB2 guide: 1-1 / 1-1 / 0-0 / 0-0 / / ; GB3 guide: 0-0 / 0-0 / 1-1 / 1-1 / / ; MS1: full-width filling, full threading.

2. The method of claim 1, wherein, The hydrophobic yarns include semi-shiny polyester filaments, polypropylene, nylon, water-repellent cotton, acrylic, PBT, or hydrophobic fibers treated with water-repellent; the hydrophilic yarns include polyester-cotton blended yarns, cotton, hemp, wool, viscose, Cooldry filaments, cashmere-polyester blended yarns, cashmere-nylon blended yarns, or hydrophilic yarns treated with hydrophilic finishing.

3. A one-way wetting warp-knitted fabric prepared by the method of claim 1 or 2.

4. The single wicking warp knit fabric produced by the method of claim 1 or 2, characterized by, The fabric includes a front side and a back side, the front side has a flat-knit structure, the back side has a filling structure, and the front side and the back side are connected by loops; the front side uses hydrophobic yarns, and the back side uses hydrophilic yarns.

5. A one-way wetting warp-knitted lining fabric, which is made of the one-way wetting warp-knitted fabric of claim 3 or 4.

6. A garment containing the one-way wetting warp-knitted fabric of claim 3 or 4.

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