Whitening composition suitable for sensitive skin and capable of improving skin resistance and self-healing power and application of whitening composition

Abstract

The invention discloses a whitening composition suitable for sensitive skin and capable of improving skin resistance and self-healing power and application of the whitening composition, and belongs to the technical field of cosmetics. The whitening composition provided by the invention is prepared from the following components in parts by mass: 0.1 to 3 parts of mulberry root extract, 0.1 to 3 parts of golden camellia extract, 0.01 to 1 part of wood apple extract, 0.1 to 3 parts of herba andrographitis extract and 0.01 to 1 part of epigallocatechin gallate. According to the whitening composition disclosed by the invention, the components in a proper mass ratio are selected for compounding, and the obtained whitening composition can effectively promote generation and secretion of human beta defensin in a skin barrier, so that the tight connection function of the skin barrier is effectively improved, the resistance of the skin is improved, and the metabolism of the skin can be effectively promoted; the self-healing power of the skin is activated; the skin is mildly whitened.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and in particular relates to a whitening composition suitable for sensitive skin and capable of improving skin resistance and self-healing ability, and an application thereof. Background Art

[0002] The stratum corneum is the outermost layer of the epidermis and is the main permeability and protective barrier of the skin. The different components of the stratum corneum, including keratinocytes, natural moisturizing factors, various enzymes and their inhibitors, antimicrobial peptides and antimicrobial lipids, interact to maintain the barrier function. The main barrier properties of the stratum corneum are to prevent skin water loss, prevent infection, and prevent the skin from contacting potentially harmful exogenous factors. Simply put, a good skin barrier function reduces the amount of water lost from the skin, achieving a "water lock" effect, which is beneficial for skin moisturization and prevents skin dryness. Externally, it can reduce the erosion of the skin by ultraviolet rays (UV waves), chemicals (inferior detergents, bath products and cosmetics, secondhand smoke, PM2.5, etc.), microorganisms (viruses, bacteria), and dust (pollen, dust, exhaust gas, etc.).

[0003] Disturbance of the stratum corneum barrier function can lead to various skin problems, such as dry skin, desquamation or skin sensitivity. The current skin care products on the market still focus on supplementing lipids and natural moisturizing factors for dry skin or damaged skin barrier, or sensitive skin. For example, a large amount of moisturizing ingredients such as squalane and hyaluronic acid are added, but no attention is paid to improving the skin's own resistance and activating its self-healing ability. In addition, skin whitening generally requires strong efficacy, and most of the whitening skin care products or whitening raw materials on the market have irritation problems. Therefore, for sensitive skin, there is a lack of skin care products or raw materials that can repair sensitivity, barrier damage, and mildly whiten. Summary of the invention

[0004] The purpose of the present invention is to overcome the deficiencies of the above-mentioned prior art and provide a whitening composition and application thereof which has excellent skin resistance and self-healing effect and is suitable for sensitive skin and has good whitening effect.

[0005] To achieve the above objectives, in a first aspect of the present invention, the present invention provides a whitening composition for enhancing skin resistance and self-healing ability, the whitening composition comprising the following components in parts by mass: 0.1-3 parts of mulberry root extract, 0.1-3 parts of camellia chrysantha extract, 0.01-1 parts of wood apple extract, 0.1-3 parts of andrographis paniculata extract, and 0.01-1 parts of epigallocatechin gallate.

[0006] A good skin barrier gives the skin strong resistance, among which the tight junction of the stratum corneum is an important defense mechanism in the skin barrier. The antimicrobial peptide in the human skin barrier, human β-defensin-3 (HBD3), can improve the tight junction barrier function of keratinocytes, increase the resistance of the barrier, resist external stimuli, and reduce the discomfort reactions of people with sensitive skin, including redness, swelling, stinging, and itching; and HBD3 can also activate cell autophagy, promote the self-phagocytosis of old and dead skin cells, and promote skin metabolism, which can stimulate the self-healing power of the skin and promote the self-repair of the skin, which can shorten the recovery time of people with skin damage, especially those with barrier damage and acne. At the same time, because HBD3 is also a melanocortin 1 receptor (MC1R) inhibitor, this gene controls the production and distribution of melanin in melanocytes, so promoting the production of HBD3 can also achieve a certain whitening effect. The present invention has been found that by selecting specific components within a specific mass range in the whitening composition of the present invention for compounding, the components have excellent synergistic effects, which can effectively promote the production and secretion of human β-defensin (HBD3) in the skin barrier, thereby effectively improving the tight junction function of the skin barrier, improving the skin's resistance, and can effectively promote skin metabolism, activate the skin's self-healing ability, and gently whiten the skin.

[0007] Specifically, mulberry root is the dried root bark of the mulberry plant (Morus alba L.) of the Moraceae family. It is one of the commonly used Chinese medicinal materials in clinical practice. It has the effects of clearing the lungs and relieving asthma, promoting diuresis and reducing swelling, and is often used to treat diseases such as lung heat, asthma, cough, facial and skin edema; the chemical components of mulberry root extract are mainly flavonoids, stilbene, glycosides and other types of compounds; in the field of cosmetics, it can be used for whitening, anti-oxidation, moisturizing, and can also help improve rough skin and anti-inflammatory.

[0008] Camellia chrysantha extract is rich in tea polyphenols, tea polysaccharides, proteins, amino acids, multiple vitamins, selenium, iron, zinc and other trace elements. It can be used to enhance skin immunity, provide meticulous and complete nutritional supplements and repairs to the skin, promote DNA damage repair, and enhance skin health.

[0009] Wood apple, also known as "elephant orange / Thanaka", is a traditional medicinal plant in Southeast Asia and India. Its bark can be ground into powder to make "Thanaka", a traditional Myanmar cosmetic, which has the functions of covering, whitening, moisturizing and sun protection. In the cosmetics field, wood apple extract can resist aging, prevent photodamage, promote the metabolism of skin cells, and improve skin quality.

[0010] Andrographis paniculata, often called the "king of bitterness", has the main active ingredient andrographolide, which has anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, anti-tumor, anti-diabetic, antimalarial and liver protective effects. Studies have shown that andrographis paniculata extract has a strong anti-inflammatory and antibacterial effect on the skin, and can reduce cellular inflammation caused by oxidative stress.

[0011] Epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG) is an ester formed by gallocatechin gallate and gallic acid. It is a catechin purified from tea tree extract. As an antioxidant, it has strong antioxidant ability and can prevent skin aging to a certain extent.

[0012] The present invention has been found that only when the above components are compounded according to the ratio of the present invention can excellent effects be achieved, the skin's resistance and self-healing ability can be effectively increased, the skin's metabolism can be enhanced, and gentle skin whitening can be achieved.

[0013] As a preferred embodiment of the whitening composition of the present invention, the whitening composition comprises the following components in parts by mass: 1-2 parts of mulberry root extract, 1-2 parts of camellia chrysantha extract, 0.5-0.8 parts of wood apple extract, 1-1.8 parts of andrographis paniculata extract, and 0.5-0.8 parts of epigallocatechin gallate.

[0014] The present invention has been found that the mass parts of the components in the whitening composition will also affect the overall performance of the product. When the mass parts of the components are further selected to be within the above-mentioned range, it can better promote the production and secretion of human β-defensins in the skin barrier, thereby improving the skin barrier capacity. At the same time, it can also enhance the skin's resistance, self-healing ability and metabolic capacity, thereby achieving gentle skin whitening.

[0015] As a preferred embodiment of the whitening composition of the present invention, the ratio of the sum of the masses of the mulberry root extract and the camellia chrysantha extract to the sum of the masses of the jasmine apple extract, andrographis paniculata extract and epigallocatechin gallate is 1:(0.75-1.05).

[0016] Exemplarily, the ratio of the sum of the masses of the mulberry root extract and the camellia chrysantha extract to the sum of the masses of the wood apple extract, andrographis paniculata extract and epigallocatechin gallate can be 1:(0.75-1.05) at any point or in the range of any two points, such as 1:0.75, 1:78, 1:80, 1:82, 1:84, 1:86, 1:88, 1:90, 1:92, 1:94, 1:96, 1:0.98, 1:1.0, 1:1.05, etc.

[0017] The present invention has found that the ratio of the sum of the masses of mulberry root extract and camellia chrysantha extract to the sum of the masses of wood apple extract, andrographis paniculata extract and epigallocatechin gallate will affect the synergistic effect between the components. When the ratio of the sum of the masses of mulberry root extract and camellia chrysantha extract to the sum of the masses of wood apple extract, andrographis paniculata extract and epigallocatechin gallate is further selected to be within the above range, the comprehensive performance of the obtained whitening composition is better.

[0018] As a preferred embodiment of the whitening composition of the present invention, in the whitening composition, the mass percentage of the Andrographis paniculata extract is 18-30%.

[0019] Exemplarily, in the whitening composition, the mass percentage of the Andrographis paniculata extract can be any point value or any two point range values ​​between 18-30%, for example, it can be 18%, 20%, 22%, 24%, 26%, 28%, 30%, etc.

[0020] The present invention has found that the mass percentage of Andrographis paniculata extract in the whitening composition will not only affect the production and secretion effect of the whitening composition on human β-defensin in the skin barrier, thereby affecting the improvement of the skin barrier capacity; it will also affect the self-healing ability and resistance of the skin, and will also affect the whitening effect of the skin.

[0021] As a preferred embodiment of the whitening composition of the present invention, the preparation method of the mulberry root extract comprises the following steps:

[0022] (1) drying and crushing the mulberry root, adding it to an ethanol aqueous solution for reflux extraction, then filtering and collecting the filtrate and concentrating it to obtain a mulberry root extract;

[0023] (2) adding water to dissolve the mulberry root extract and then adding β-glucosidase to carry out enzymatic hydrolysis reaction. After the reaction is completed, filtering is performed, and the enzymatic hydrolyzate is collected, concentrated, and dried to obtain the mulberry root extract.

[0024] The present invention has found that when mulberry root extract is prepared by different methods, the types and contents of its effective ingredients are different. When the mulberry root extract is further selected to be prepared by the preparation method provided by the present invention and is compounded with other components, the comprehensive effect of the obtained whitening composition is better.

[0025] As a preferred embodiment of the whitening composition of the present invention, in the step (1), the mass percentage of ethanol in the ethanol aqueous solution is 60-80%.

[0026] As a preferred embodiment of the whitening composition of the present invention, in the step (1), the solid-liquid ratio of the reflux extraction is 1g: (5-20)mL, the reflux extraction temperature is 70-90°C, the single reflux extraction time is 1-3h, and the number of reflux extractions is 1-3 times.

[0027] As a preferred embodiment of the whitening composition of the present invention, in the step (2), the mass ratio of the mulberry root extract to water is 1:(2-5).

[0028] As a preferred embodiment of the whitening composition of the present invention, in the step (2), the mass ratio of β-glucosidase to mulberry root extract is (0.5-2):1.

[0029] As a preferred embodiment of the whitening composition of the present invention, in the step (2), the enzymatic hydrolysis temperature is 30-50° C., and the enzymatic hydrolysis time is 8-12 h.

[0030] The present invention has no particular limitation on the preparation method of the Camellia chrysantha extract, and conventional alcohol extraction can achieve the purpose of the present invention, or the extract can be purchased from conventional commercial sources.

[0031] In one embodiment, the preparation method of the camellia chrysantha extract of the present invention comprises the following steps: drying and crushing the flowers of camellia chrysantha and adding them to an ethanol aqueous solution for reflux extraction, filtering after the extraction is completed, collecting the filtrate and concentrating and drying it to obtain the camellia chrysantha extract.

[0032] Preferably, the mass volume ratio of the Camellia chrysantha flower to the ethanol aqueous solution is 1 g: (5-20) mL.

[0033] Preferably, the mass percentage of ethanol in the ethanol aqueous solution is 50-80%.

[0034] Preferably, the reflux extraction is carried out at a temperature of 60-80°C and for a time of 1-2 hours.

[0035] The present invention has no particular limitation on the preparation method of the wood apple extract, and conventional alcohol extraction can achieve the purpose of the present invention, or the wood apple extract can be purchased from conventional commercial sources.

[0036] In one embodiment, the preparation method of the wood apple extract comprises the following steps: taking the dried bark of wood apple and crushing it, adding it into an ethanol aqueous solution for reflux extraction, filtering it after the extraction is completed, collecting the filtrate and concentrating and drying it to obtain the wood apple extract.

[0037] Preferably, the mass volume ratio of the wood apple bark to the ethanol aqueous solution is 1 g: (5-20) mL.

[0038] Preferably, the mass percentage of ethanol in the ethanol aqueous solution is 50-80%.

[0039] Preferably, the reflux extraction is carried out at a temperature of 40-60°C and for a time of 1-3 hours.

[0040] The present invention has no particular limitation on the preparation method of the Andrographis paniculata extract, and conventional alcohol extraction can achieve the purpose of the present invention, or the Andrographis paniculata extract can be purchased from conventional commercial sources.

[0041] In one embodiment, the preparation method of the Andrographis paniculata extract comprises the following steps: collecting the aerial part of Andrographis paniculata, cleaning it, drying it and crushing it, then adding the crushed Andrographis paniculata into methanol for ultrasonic extraction, filtering and collecting the filtrate after the extraction, and concentrating and drying it to obtain the Andrographis paniculata extract.

[0042] Preferably, the mass volume ratio of Andrographis paniculata to methanol is 1 g: (5-20) mL.

[0043] Preferably, the ultrasonic extraction time is 1-3 hours.

[0044] In the second aspect of the present invention, the present invention provides use of the whitening composition in preparing cosmetics.

[0045] The whitening composition provided by the present invention has a good effect of promoting the production and secretion of human β-defensin, and therefore can effectively enhance the resistance and self-healing ability of the skin. In addition, the whitening composition provided by the present invention can also effectively promote skin metabolism and achieve mild whitening.

[0046] In the third aspect of the present invention, the present invention provides an emulsion, which comprises the following components in mass percentage: 0.5-5% of the whitening composition of the present invention, 0.1-0.5% of a thickener, 3-10% of a moisturizer, 0.1-10% of an emulsifier, 0.5-5% of a preservative, 0.01-0.1% of an antioxidant, 0.05-0.5% of a pH regulator, and the remainder is water.

[0047] The present invention has been found through research that the emulsion provided by the present invention includes the whitening composition of the present invention, and the obtained emulsion has good skin barrier repairing ability and whitening effect.

[0048] As a preferred embodiment of the emulsion of the present invention, the thickener includes polyacrylate cross-linked polymer 6.

[0049] As a preferred embodiment of the emulsion of the present invention, the antioxidant includes sodium pyrosulfite and glucosylrutin.

[0050] Preferably, the mass ratio of sodium pyrosulfite to glucosylrutin is 1:(0.5-1.5).

[0051] More preferably, the mass ratio of sodium pyrosulfite to glucosylrutin is 1:1.

[0052] The present invention has found that when the whitening composition of the present invention is added to an emulsion, the storage stability of the emulsion is not high due to the components in the whitening composition. When the thickener is further selected as polyacrylate cross-linked polymer 6 and the antioxidants are sodium pyrosulfite and glucosylrutin, the obtained emulsion has excellent storage stability and will not have precipitation or discoloration problems even if it is stored for a long time.

[0053] As a preferred embodiment of the emulsion of the present invention, the moisturizer includes at least one of glycerin, D-panthenol, vitamin B5, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,3-propylene glycol, sodium hyaluronate, tremella polysaccharide, trehalose, betaine and squalane.

[0054] As a preferred embodiment of the emulsion of the present invention, the emulsifier includes at least one of ethylhexylglycerin, dimethicone, steareth-2, steareth, caprylic capric triglyceride, polymethylsilsesquioxane, cetearyl glucoside, and C14-22 alcohol / C12-20 alkyl glucoside.

[0055] As a preferred embodiment of the emulsion of the present invention, the preservative comprises p-hydroxyacetophenone and / or polyol.

[0056] As a preferred embodiment of the emulsion of the present invention, the pH regulator includes disodium ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid and / or arginine.

[0057] Compared with the prior art, the present invention has the following beneficial effects:

[0058] The present invention selects components of appropriate mass ratio for compounding, and the components have good interaction, which can effectively promote the production and secretion of human beta defensin (HBD3) in the skin barrier, thereby effectively improving the tight connection function of the skin barrier, improving the resistance of the skin, and effectively promoting the metabolism of the skin, activating the self-healing ability of the skin and mildly whitening the skin. In addition, the whitening composition provided by the present invention can be widely added to cosmetics, thereby achieving good skin barrier repairing ability and whitening effect of cosmetics. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0059] Figure 1 This is a comparison chart of the zebrafish barrier permeability test results in Effect Example 1;

[0060] Figure 2 This is a comparison chart of the test results of inhibiting melanin production in zebrafish in Effect Example 1;

[0061] Figure 3 This is a comparison picture of the volunteers in Effect Example 2 before and after use. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0062] In order to better illustrate the purpose, technical solutions and advantages of the present invention, the present invention will be further described below in conjunction with specific embodiments.

[0063] Unless otherwise specified, the reagents, methods and equipment used in the present invention are all conventional reagents, methods and equipment in the art; and unless otherwise specified, the raw materials used in parallel experiments are from the same batch of raw materials.

[0064] Mulberry root extract 1: Homemade, the preparation method includes the following steps:

[0065] (1) Clean the mulberry root and peel off the root bark. Put the peeled root bark into a 50°C constant temperature oven and dry it to constant weight. Then grind it and pass it through a No. 5 sieve. Collect the sieve underflow. Add the sieve underflow into a 70% ethanol aqueous solution (the mass volume ratio of the sieve underflow to the 70% ethanol aqueous solution is 1 g:10 mL). Then, reflux extract at 80°C for 3 times. The single reflux extraction time is 2 h. After the extraction, filter and collect the filtrate, and concentrate and dry it under reduced pressure to obtain a mulberry root extract.

[0066] (2) dissolving the mulberry root extract in 40° C. water in an amount of 4 times (based on the mulberry root extract), then adding 0.5 times (based on the mulberry root extract) of β-glucosidase, and performing enzymolysis at 30° C. for 10 h; then filtering, collecting the filtrate, concentrating under reduced pressure, and drying to obtain mulberry root extract 1;

[0067] Mulberry root extract 2: Homemade, the preparation method includes the following steps:

[0068] (1) Clean the mulberry root and peel off the root bark. Put the peeled root bark into a 50°C constant temperature oven and dry it to constant weight. Then grind it and pass it through a No. 5 sieve. Collect the sieve under the sieve. Add the sieve under the sieve to a 60% ethanol aqueous solution (the mass volume ratio of the sieve under the sieve to the 70% ethanol aqueous solution is 1g:20mL), then reflux extract at 85°C for 3 times, with a single reflux extraction time of 1h. After the extraction is completed, filter and collect the filtrate, and concentrate and dry it under reduced pressure to obtain a mulberry root extract.

[0069] (2) dissolving the mulberry root extract in 2 times the amount (based on the mulberry root extract) of water at 45° C., then adding 1.5 times the amount (based on the mulberry root extract) of β-glucosidase, and performing enzymolysis at 45° C. for 10 h; then filtering, collecting the filtrate, concentrating under reduced pressure, and drying to obtain mulberry root extract 2;

[0070] Mulberry root extract 3: Homemade, the preparation method includes the following steps:

[0071] (1) Clean the mulberry root and peel off the root bark. Put the peeled root bark into a 50°C constant temperature oven and dry it to constant weight. Then grind it and pass it through a No. 5 sieve. Collect the sieve underflow. Add the sieve underflow into a 70% ethanol aqueous solution (the mass volume ratio of the sieve underflow to the 70% ethanol aqueous solution is 1 g:10 mL). Then, reflux extract at 80°C for 3 times. The single reflux extraction time is 2 h. After the extraction, filter and collect the filtrate, and concentrate and dry it under reduced pressure to obtain a mulberry root extract.

[0072] (2) dissolving the mulberry root extract with 4 times the amount (based on the mulberry root extract) of water at 40° C., then adding 0.5 times the amount (based on the mulberry root extract) of cellulase, and performing enzymolysis at 30° C. for 10 h; then filtering, collecting the filtrate, concentrating under reduced pressure, and drying to obtain mulberry root extract 3;

[0073] Mulberry root extract 4: Homemade, the preparation method includes the following steps:

[0074] Wash the mulberry root and peel off the root bark. Put the peeled root bark into a 50°C constant temperature oven and dry it to constant weight. Then grind it and pass it through a No. 5 sieve. Collect the sieve under the sieve. Add the sieve under the sieve to a 70% ethanol aqueous solution (the mass volume ratio of the sieve under the sieve to the 70% ethanol aqueous solution is 1g:10mL). Then, reflux extract 3 times at 80°C. The single reflux extraction time is 2h. After the extraction, filter and collect the filtrate, and concentrate and dry it under reduced pressure to obtain mulberry root extract 4.

[0075] Camellia chrysantha extract: Homemade, the preparation method includes the following steps:

[0076] Collect the flowers of Camellia chrysantha, clean them, put them into a 50°C constant temperature oven and dry them to constant weight, grind them and pass them through a No. 5 sieve, take 1g of the sieve, add 20mL of 75% ethanol by volume, reflux and extract at 80°C for 1h, filter after the extraction, collect the filtrate, concentrate and dry it, and obtain the Camellia chrysantha extract;

[0077] Wood apple extract: Homemade, the preparation method includes the following steps:

[0078] The dried bark of the wood apple tree was collected, dried in a constant temperature oven at 50°C to constant weight, ground and crushed, and passed through a No. 5 sieve, the sieve was collected, and 10 times the amount of 70% ethanol aqueous solution was added thereto, and refluxed at 50°C for 2h. After the extraction was completed, the bark was filtered, the filtrate was collected, concentrated under reduced pressure, and dried to obtain the wood apple extract;

[0079] Andrographis paniculata extract: commercially available, Draco;

[0080] Epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG): commercially available from Givaudan.

[0081] Examples 1-9 and Comparative Examples 1-5

[0082] The embodiments and comparative examples of the present invention provide a whitening composition for improving skin resistance and self-healing ability. The components (parts by weight) of the whitening composition are shown in Table 1;

[0083] Table 1

[0084]

[0085]

[0086] The preparation method of the whitening composition provided in Example 1 is: mixing the components evenly to obtain the whitening composition.

[0087] The preparation methods of the whitening compositions provided in Examples 2-9 and Comparative Examples 1-5 are consistent with that in Example 1.

[0088] Comparative Example 6

[0089] The comparative example of the present invention provides a whitening composition, wherein the only difference between the whitening composition and Example 1 is that the jackfruit extract is used instead of the mulberry root extract.

[0090] Comparative Example 7

[0091] The comparative example of the present invention provides a whitening composition, wherein the only difference between the whitening composition and Example 1 is that the camellia extract is used instead of the camellia chrysantha extract.

[0092] Comparative Example 8

[0093] The comparative example of the present invention provides a whitening composition, the only difference between the whitening composition and Example 1 is that the wood apple extract is replaced by lemon extract.

[0094] Comparative Example 9

[0095] The comparative example of the present invention provides a whitening composition, wherein the only difference between the whitening composition and Example 1 is that the Andrographis paniculata extract is replaced by the honeysuckle extract.

[0096] Comparative Example 10

[0097] The comparative example of the present invention provides a whitening composition, the only difference between the whitening composition and Example 1 is that nicotinamide is used instead of EGCG.

[0098] Application Example 1-14, Comparative Application Example 1-10

[0099] The application examples of the present invention and the comparative application examples provide an emulsion, the components (mass percentage) of the emulsion are shown in Table 2; wherein the whitening compositions used in application examples 1-9 are respectively the whitening compositions prepared in embodiments 1-9, and the whitening compositions used in comparative application examples 1-10 are respectively the whitening compositions prepared in comparative examples 1-10; the whitening compositions used in application examples 10-14 are the whitening compositions prepared in embodiment 1;

[0100] In addition, a blank application example is set, wherein the only difference between the blank application example and application example 1 is that no whitening composition is added;

[0101] Table 2

[0102]

[0103]

[0104] The preparation method of the emulsion provided in Application Example 1 comprises the following steps:

[0105] Put each component in phase A into water in turn, mix homogeneously after the thickener is fully swollen, heat it with phase B until the solid matter is melted uniformly, mix and emulsify at 80°C, heat phase C until p-hydroxyacetophenone is melted, add it to the emulsion and stir evenly, after the temperature drops to 40°C, add phase D and E and stir to form a uniform emulsion, finally add arginine to adjust the pH to obtain an emulsion;

[0106] The preparation methods of the emulsions provided in Application Examples 2-14, Comparative Application Examples 1-10 and Blank Application Examples are consistent with that in Application Example 1.

[0107] Effect Example 1

[0108] The performance of the whitening composition prepared in Examples 1-9 and Comparative Examples 1-10 was investigated, including the following aspects:

[0109] 1. Promoting effect on human β-defensins

[0110] The tight junction of the stratum corneum is an important defense mechanism in the skin barrier. Studies have found that human β-defensin-3 (HBD3) in the human skin barrier can improve the tight junction barrier function of keratinocytes, increase the resistance of the barrier, resist external stimuli, and reduce the discomfort reactions of people with sensitive skin, including redness, stinging, and itching. External stimuli such as light can lead to a decrease in the secretion of HBD3, thereby slowing down the recovery of skin damage. If the secretion of HBD3 in the skin increases, the skin's resistance is enhanced, and the skin can speed up self-healing. Therefore, by studying the whitening composition's promotion of the secretion of human β-defensin HBD3 after light damage to keratinocytes, it is possible to determine the ability of the whitening composition to enhance the skin's resistance and self-healing ability. The stronger the secretion promotion of HBD3, the stronger the whitening composition's effect on enhancing the skin's resistance and self-healing ability.

[0111] The specific test includes the following steps:

[0112] Human keratinocytes HaCat were revived and cultured in MEM containing 10% FBS. 2 , 320nm irradiation; after irradiation with the light source, replace the fresh culture medium, prepare the whitening composition into a 20μg / mL working solution with fish embryo culture medium, add 20μL of different whitening composition working solutions to treat HaCaT cells for 24h, and use the culture solution without the whitening composition suitable for sensitive skin and not irradiated by UVB as the blank control group, and the culture solution without the whitening composition after UVB irradiation as the UVB model group. Different whitening compositions were configured into sample solutions and co-cultured with HaCat cells, and then the cells were harvested. The concentration of HBD3 in HaCaT cells was detected by ELISA kit. The absorbance was measured at a wavelength of 450nm;

[0113] Among them, the HBD3 concentrations of the model group and the blank control group were compared. The HBD3 concentration of the model group was significantly lower than that of the blank control group (P<0.05), that is, the modeling of the model group was successful.

[0114] Promotion rate (%) = (HBD3 content in the test group - HBD3 content in the model group) / HBD3 content in the model group × 100%; the results are shown in Table 3.

[0115] 2. Test on the effect of whitening composition on promoting zebrafish's resistance to external stimuli

[0116] Zebrafish is a commonly used animal for in vivo studies of human efficacy, and its skin barrier is similar to that of humans. In this experiment, we put the prepared whitening composition into the culture medium of zebrafish, added the irritant lactic acid to establish a zebrafish barrier damage model, and then added red fluorescent dye. The dye will enter the zebrafish through the skin damage site, and observe the penetration of the fluorescent dye in the zebrafish. The less fluorescence, the stronger the test substance's promotion of the resistance and self-healing ability of the zebrafish skin barrier, and vice versa.

[0117] The specific test includes the following steps:

[0118] Healthy zebrafish embryos 2 days after fertilization were selected, and a blank control group (fish embryo culture medium), a model control group (fish embryo culture medium + gentian violet and lactic acid (LA) 1:1 mixed solution) and a test group (fish embryo culture medium + gentian violet and lactic acid (LA) mixed solution + whitening composition prepared in Example / Comparative Example) were set up. The specific operation is as follows: 63 fish embryos were randomly selected and placed in a 3 cm culture dish, and the test solution was prepared by preparing a 20 μg / mL working solution using fish embryo culture medium, and 5 mL of the test solution was added to the test group. After being placed in a constant temperature shaker at 28±1°C for 4 hours, it was washed twice with fish embryo culture medium. 5 mL of a 1:1 mixed solution of gentian violet and lactic acid (LA) was added to each well of the model group and the test group, and then placed in a constant temperature shaker at 28°C±1°C for 20 minutes. The fish embryos were placed sideways. The tail fins of the fish embryos were photographed under a fluorescent stereo microscope according to uniform photographing parameters. The fluorescent area of ​​the photographs was analyzed using Image J software;

[0119] Skin barrier permeability inhibition rate (%) = (fluorescence area of ​​the tail fin of the model group - fluorescence area of ​​the tail fin of the test group) / fluorescence area of ​​the tail fin of the model group × 100%; the obtained data are shown in Table 3;

[0120] Among them, the fluorescence area of ​​the model group was compared with that of the blank control group. The fluorescence area of ​​the model group was significantly increased compared with that of the blank control group (P < 0.05), that is, the modeling of the model group was successful.

[0121] 3. Whitening test of whitening composition

[0122] Studies have shown that zebrafish produce melanin during the embryonic and larval stages, so they can be used to study the inhibitory effect of samples on melanin synthesis and evaluate the whitening effect of the samples.

[0123] Select healthy zebrafish embryos that are 6h to 8h old after fertilization. Set up a blank control group (fish embryo culture medium), a 100% melanin inhibition model group (fish embryo culture medium + phenylthiourea working solution) and a test group (fish embryo culture medium + phenylthiourea working solution + whitening composition prepared in Example / Comparative Example). The specific operation is as follows: Randomly select 63 fish embryos to a 96-well plate, each well containing one fish embryo and 0.2mL fish embryo culture medium. The test substance is prepared with fish embryo culture medium to prepare a 20μg / mL working solution, 0.2mL phenylthiourea working solution is added to each well of the model group, and 0.2mL phenylthiourea working solution is added to the test group while 0.2mL of the test substance working solution is added. Place in a 28℃±1℃ incubator and culture until 48h±1h after fertilization. Cover the fish embryo with 2% to 4% methylcellulose and place it with its back facing up. Then put it under a stereomicroscope to take pictures of the head and yolk area. The melanin content of the photos taken after taking pictures is analyzed using Image J software.

[0124] Melanin inhibition rate (%) = (melanin area of ​​model group - melanin area of ​​test group) / melanin area of ​​model group × 100%, the obtained data are shown in Table 3;

[0125] Among them, the melanin area of ​​the model group was compared with that of the blank control group. The melanin area of ​​the model group was significantly increased compared with that of the blank control group (P < 0.05), that is, the modeling of the model group was successful.

[0126] Table 3

[0127]

[0128] It can be seen from Table 3 that the whitening composition provided by the present invention can improve the reduction of HBD3 secretion caused by UVB, and the promotion rate of HBD3 is above 93.41%; at the same time, the whitening composition provided by the present invention also has an excellent effect of resisting external stimuli. In the zebrafish experiment, the skin barrier permeability inhibition rate is above 39.03%; in addition, the whitening composition provided by the present invention also has a good whitening effect, and the inhibition rate of zebrafish melanin production is above 28.94%;

[0129] It can be seen from Examples 1-6 that the mass fraction of the components in the whitening composition will affect the comprehensive performance of the product. When the mass fraction of the components is further selected within the scope of the present invention and the mass ratio of component A to component B is within the scope of the present invention, the comprehensive effect of the obtained whitening composition is better; specifically, the promotion rate of HBD3 is above 109.63%, the skin barrier permeability inhibition rate in the zebrafish experiment is above 52.04%, and the inhibition rate of zebrafish melanin production in the whitening experiment is above 55.92%; It can be seen from Examples 1 and 7-9 that the preparation method of mulberry root extract will also affect the comprehensive performance of the product;

[0130] It can be seen from Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-5 that the components in the whitening composition provided by the present invention are indispensable. When any one of them is missing, the comprehensive performance of the obtained product is significantly reduced; it can be seen from Example 1 and Comparative Examples 6-10 that when other similar ingredients are used to replace the components in the whitening composition, the corresponding effects of the present invention cannot be achieved;

[0131] In addition, the test results of zebrafish in the model group, Example 1, Comparative Example 1 and Comparative Example 6 in the zebrafish permeability test are shown in the figure below: Figure 1 As shown, from Figure 1 It can be seen intuitively that when the technical solution provided by the present invention is adopted, the tail fin fluorescence area can be significantly reduced compared with the model group, that is, it has an excellent skin barrier permeability inhibition effect. The test results of zebrafish in the model group, Example 1, Comparative Example 1 and Comparative Example 6 in the zebrafish melanin synthesis inhibition test are shown in the figure below: Figure 2 As shown, from Figure 2 It can be seen that, compared with the model group, the product of Example 1 obtained by adopting the technical solution provided by the present invention can significantly reduce the melanin of zebrafish and achieve a good whitening effect.

[0132] Effect Example 2

[0133] The effect examples of the present invention explore the performance of the emulsions prepared by application examples 1-14, comparative application examples 1-10 and blank application examples, specifically: recruited patients with skin barrier damage problems (TEWL ≥ 20g / hm 2 ) were recruited. No products could be applied to the test area (face) on the day of the visit. After washing their faces, they sat quietly in an air-conditioned room with a temperature of 21±1℃ and a humidity of 50±10% for 20 minutes. Then they were randomly divided into 25 groups, with 3 people in each group. TM Hex (Courage+Khazaka) and color probe Colorimeter CL400 measured the initial TEWL value and ITA° value of the left and right faces of each volunteer, and took the average value. Each group of volunteers used the same amount of lotion on their faces once in the morning and evening. The first group of subjects used the blank application example (lotion without whitening composition), and the second group of subjects used application example 1, and so on. Then, on the 14th day and the 28th day, the post-use TEWL value and post-use ITA° value of the facial skin were measured again, and the average value was taken. Then, the corresponding average value was used to calculate the respective improvement rates (%) according to the following formula:

[0134] TEWL value improvement rate (%) = (initial TEWL value - TEWL value after use) / initial TEWL value × 100%;

[0135] ITA° value improvement rate (%) = (ITA° value after use - initial ITA° value) / initial ITA° value × 100%;

[0136] Among them, the greater the improvement rate of TEWL value, the stronger the skin barrier damage repair ability of the lotion; the greater the improvement rate of ITA° value, the stronger the ability of the lotion to improve skin whitening and brighten skin tone; the results are shown in Table 4.

[0137] Table 4

[0138]

[0139] As can be seen from Table 4, the emulsion provided by the present invention has excellent effects of repairing the skin barrier and whitening the skin. Specifically, on the 28th day, the improvement rate of the TEWL value was above 27.98%, and the improvement rate of the ITA° value was above 17.84%;

[0140] It can be seen from Application Examples 1-6 that the mass fraction of the components in the whitening composition added to the emulsion will affect the comprehensive performance of the product. When the mass fraction of the components is further selected within the scope of the present invention and the mass ratio of component A to component B is within the scope of the present invention, the comprehensive effect of the obtained emulsion is better; specifically, on the 28th day, the obtained TEWL value improvement rate is above 33.94%, and the ITA° value improvement rate is above 22.94%; it can be seen from Application Examples 1 and Application Examples 7-9 that the preparation method of mulberry root extract will also affect the comprehensive performance of the product;

[0141] It can be seen from Application Example 1 and Comparative Application Examples 1-5 that the components in the whitening composition provided by the present invention are indispensable. When any one of them is missing, the comprehensive performance of the obtained emulsion is significantly reduced; it can be seen from Application Example 1 and Comparative Application Examples 6-10 that when other similar ingredients are used to replace the components in the whitening composition, the corresponding effects of the present invention cannot be achieved;

[0142] Among them, the photographs of volunteers in the blank application example, application example 1 and comparative application example 1 emulsion before and after use are as follows: Figure 3 As shown, from Figure 3 It can be intuitively seen that the emulsion provided by the present invention can effectively repair skin damage and whiten the skin.

[0143] Effect Example 3

[0144] The effect example of the present invention explores the stability of the emulsions prepared in Application Examples 1-2 and Application Examples 10-13, wherein the emulsions used are a batch of emulsions prepared in parallel, specifically comprising the following steps:

[0145] 1. Place the samples in a constant temperature device at 50℃ and -8℃ for extreme environmental stability test, and take them out on the 0th, 1st, 7th, 14th, 21st and 30th day to observe whether the product has obvious color change, stratification, precipitation, precipitation and other abnormal changes in appearance;

[0146] 2. Place the sample in a UV light aging box at 0.50w / m 2 The product was irradiated with a dose of UVA light (340 nm) for 24 hours, and then taken out to observe whether there were any abnormal changes in appearance such as obvious discoloration, stratification, precipitation, and precipitation.

[0147] The results obtained are shown in Table 5;

[0148] Table 5

[0149]

[0150]

[0151] As can be seen from Table 5, the types of thickeners and antioxidants affect the stability of the emulsion. When the thickener is polyacrylate cross-linked polymer 6 and the antioxidants are sodium pyrosulfite and glucosyl rutin, the stability of the obtained emulsion is more excellent; specifically, when polyacrylate cross-linked polymer 6 is not added, the formula does not have enough pulling force on the whitening composition, which will cause the unstable components in the whitening component to precipitate under extreme conditions, and the oil phase and the water phase will separate. Sodium pyrosulfite and glucosyl rutin can keep the color of the active ingredient stable, especially when the mass ratio of sodium pyrosulfite and glucosyl rutin in the antioxidant is further selected to be 1:1, the stability of the obtained emulsion is optimal.

[0152] Finally, it should be noted that the above embodiments are intended to illustrate the technical solution of the present invention rather than to limit the scope of protection of the present invention. Although the present invention has been described in detail with reference to the preferred embodiments, those skilled in the art should understand that the technical solution of the present invention may be modified or replaced by equivalents without departing from the essence and scope of the technical solution of the present invention.

Claims

1. A whitening composition suitable for sensitive skin for improving skin resistance and self-healing ability, characterized in that: The whitening composition comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0.1-3 parts of mulberry root extract, 0.1-3 parts of camellia chrysantha extract, 0.01-1 parts of wood apple extract, 0.1-3 parts of andrographis paniculata extract, and 0.01-1 parts of epigallocatechin gallate.

2. The whitening composition according to claim 1, characterized in that The whitening composition comprises the following components in parts by weight: 1-2 parts of mulberry root extract, 1-2 parts of camellia chrysantha extract, 0.5-0.8 parts of jasmine extract, 1-1.8 parts of andrographolide extract, and 0.5-0.8 parts of epigallocatechin gallate.

3. The whitening composition according to claim 1, characterized in that The ratio of the sum of the masses of the mulberry root extract and the camellia chrysantha extract to the sum of the masses of the pyrus chinensis extract, the andrographis paniculata extract and epigallocatechin gallate is 1:(0.75-1.05).

4. The whitening composition according to claim 1, characterized in that In the whitening composition, the mass percentage of the Andrographis paniculata extract is 18-30%.

5. The whitening composition according to claim 1, characterized in that The preparation method of the mulberry root extract comprises the following steps: (1) drying and crushing the mulberry root, adding it to an ethanol aqueous solution for reflux extraction, then filtering and collecting the filtrate and concentrating it to obtain a mulberry root extract; (2) adding water to dissolve the mulberry root extract and then adding β-glucosidase to carry out enzymatic hydrolysis reaction. After the reaction is completed, filtering is performed, and the enzymatic hydrolyzate is collected, concentrated, and dried to obtain the mulberry root extract.

6. The whitening composition according to claim 5, characterized in that Satisfy at least one of the following: a. In the step (1), the mass percentage of ethanol in the ethanol aqueous solution is 60-80%; b. In the step (1), the solid-liquid ratio of the reflux extraction is 1g: (5-20) mL, the reflux extraction temperature is 70-90 ° C, the single reflux extraction time is 1-3h, and the number of reflux extractions is 1-3 times; c. In the step (2), the mass ratio of mulberry root extract to water is 1: (2-5); d. In the step (2), the mass ratio of β-glucosidase to mulberry root extract is (0.5-2): 1; e. In the step (2), the enzymolysis temperature is 30-50°C and the enzymolysis time is 8-12h.

7. Use of the whitening composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6 in the preparation of cosmetics.

8. An emulsion, characterized in that The emulsion comprises the following components in percentage by weight: 0.5-5% of the whitening composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, 0.1-0.5% of a thickener, 3-10% of a moisturizer, 0.1-10% of an emulsifier, 0.5-5% of a preservative, 0.01-0.1% of an antioxidant, 0.05-0.5% of a pH regulator, and the balance of water.

9. The emulsion according to claim 8, characterized in that The thickener includes polyacrylate cross-linked polymer 6; And / or, the antioxidant comprises sodium pyrosulfite and glucosylrutin.

10. The emulsion according to claim 8, characterized in that The moisturizing agent includes at least one of glycerin, D-panthenol, vitamin B5, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,3-propylene glycol, sodium hyaluronate, tremella polysaccharide, trehalose, betaine, and squalane; and / or, the emulsifier comprises at least one of ethylhexylglycerin, dimethicone, steareth-2, steareth-2, caprylic capric triglyceride, polymethylsilsesquioxane, cetearyl glucoside, and C14-22 alcohol / C12-20 alkyl glucoside; and / or, the preservative comprises p-hydroxyacetophenone and / or a polyol; And / or, the pH adjuster includes disodium ethylenediaminetetraacetate and / or arginine.

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