Photoprotection composition, application and sunscreen cosmetic

Abstract

The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and discloses a photoprotection composition, application and a sunscreen cosmetic. The photoprotection composition comprises soluble collagen and a phyllanthus emblica fruit extract, and the mass ratio of the soluble collagen to the phyllanthus emblica fruit extract is 75: 1-25: 1. The soluble collagen has the characteristic of forming a film when meeting light, can be cross-linked and cured under a light source to form a layer of continuous film, has better defense capability on ultraviolet rays after being cured to form the film, and can provide comprehensive light protection for the skin. Meanwhile, the phyllanthus emblica fruit extract effectively protects keratinocyte apoptosis, oxidation and inflammatory damage caused by UVA / UVB, and has the remarkable capacity of preventing and treating ultraviolet damage. Therefore, the photoprotection composition can achieve synergistic interaction, not only can effectively absorb and utilize light, but also has the capability of resisting ultraviolet rays, can achieve comprehensive photoprotection for skin, and has an excellent photoprotection function when being applied to sunscreen products.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and in particular relates to a light protection composition, application and sunscreen cosmetics. Background Art

[0002] Ultraviolet radiation in sunlight is associated with a variety of diseases, such as actinic keratosis, chronic actinic dermatitis, inflammatory aging, etc. Ultraviolet radiation in sunlight is mainly UVA and UVB. UVA has a wavelength of 320-400nm and can penetrate the epidermis to reach the dermis. Its main targets include fibroblasts and Langerhans cells. It can promote the production and release of matrix metalloproteinases and accelerate the degradation of collagen and elastin. UVB has strong energy and mainly acts on the epidermis, causing the stratum corneum to thicken and the inflammatory response to intensify. UVB can also induce the production of tyrosinase, promote the proliferation and migration of melanocytes, and increase the synthesis of melanin.

[0003] In today's society, the public's awareness of preventing skin aging and photodamage is increasing, and the requirements for sunscreen products are getting higher and higher. Products with a higher SPF can effectively protect the skin from UV damage and delay aging. However, the higher the SPF, the higher the content of sunscreen added to the formula will generally be, which not only affects the skin feel, but may also have a certain impact on the health of consumers. On the basis of not changing the type and content of sunscreen in the formula, it is an economical and effective strategy to increase the SPF through the synergistic effect of other ingredients in the formula to reduce the adverse effects caused by adding too much sunscreen. Summary of the invention

[0004] In view of the above technical problems, the present invention aims to provide a photoprotective composition that can effectively improve the sun protection factor, its application in the field of sun protection, and a sunscreen cosmetic containing the photoprotective composition.

[0005] To achieve this object, the present invention adopts the following technical solutions:

[0006] In a first aspect, the present invention provides a photoprotective composition, soluble collagen and emblica fruit extract, wherein the mass ratio of soluble collagen to emblica fruit extract is 75:1 to 25:1, and the soluble collagen includes photocurable collagen and a photoinitiator.

[0007] Preferably, the photocurable collagen is collagen modified by acylation with 2-methacrylic anhydride.

[0008] More preferably, after being acylated with 2-methacrylic anhydride, the photocurable collagen chain segment still contains active groups such as arginine-glycine-aspartic acid motif and matrix metalloproteinase substrate motif, which not only retains the anti-wrinkle effect of collagen, but more importantly, has the effect of "light film formation" under light source. That is, when there is a light source, the photocurable collagen can be cross-linked and cured under the action of the photoinitiator to form a thin film, so it can be used as a film-forming agent to a certain extent. After curing and forming a film, it has a good defense ability against ultraviolet rays and can provide comprehensive light protection for the skin.

[0009] Preferably, the photoinitiator includes one or more of dimethylaminophenylvinyl heptylmethylthiazolium iodide, isooctyl p-dimethylaminobenzoate, isopentyl p-dimethylaminobenzoate, 2-hydroxy-2-methylpropiophenone, 2-hydroxy-4'-(2-hydroxyethoxy)-2-methylpropiophenone, lithium phenyl-2,4,6-trimethylbenzoylphosphonate, and 2,2'-(1,2-diazolylidene)bis[N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-2-methylpropionamide.

[0010] Preferably, the emblica fruit extract is extracted from the dried pitted fruit of the emblica fruit of Yunnan plant of the genus Phyllanthus in the family Euphorbiaceae.

[0011] In a second aspect, the present invention also provides the use of the above-mentioned light protection composition in ultraviolet protection products.

[0012] In a third aspect, the present invention further provides a sunscreen cosmetic containing the above-mentioned light protection composition, which comprises the following components based on 100 parts by total weight: 5-20 parts of ultraviolet sunscreen; 1-5 parts of emulsifier; 0.5-2 parts of film former; 5-20 parts of emollient; 3-5 parts of light protection composition; 0.2-0.6 parts of thickener; 5-10 parts of moisturizer; the balance of water;

[0013] Preferably, the UV sunscreen is three or more of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, ethylhexyl triazone, octocrylene or titanium dioxide. Among them, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, ethylhexyl triazone, octocrylene are oil-soluble sunscreens.

[0014] Preferably, the emulsifier is one or more of sucrose polystearate and cetyl palmitate, polysorbate-60 or potassium cetyl phosphate.

[0015] Preferably, the emollient is one or more of polydimethylsiloxane, dibutyl adipate, and cetearyl alcohol.

[0016] Preferably, the film former is triacontyl PVP.

[0017] Preferably, the humectant is one or more of glycerol, butylene glycol or pentylene glycol.

[0018] Preferably, the thickener is ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer and xanthan gum. The mass ratio of ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer to xanthan gum is 4:1 to 3:1.

[0019] Compared with the prior art, the present invention has at least the following beneficial effects:

[0020] The photoprotective composition provided by the present invention includes soluble collagen and emblica fruit extract. In addition to its anti-wrinkle effect, the soluble collagen also has the property of forming a film when exposed to light, that is, it can form a continuous thin film under light conditions, and can be used as a film-forming agent to a certain extent. After solidifying into a film, it has a good defense against ultraviolet rays and can provide comprehensive photoprotection for the skin. The emblica fruit extract effectively protects keratinocyte apoptosis, oxidation and inflammatory damage caused by UVA / UVB, and has excellent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects and significant ability to prevent and treat ultraviolet damage. It can be seen from test examples 2 to 3 that the two work synergistically, not only can they effectively absorb and utilize light, but also have the ability to defend against ultraviolet rays, can effectively improve the sun protection factor, and can achieve more comprehensive photoprotection for the skin. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0021] Figure 1 This is a graph showing the sun protection factor test results in Test Example 2 of the present invention.

[0022] Figure 2 This is a diagram showing the anti-wrinkle efficacy measurement results (phenotype) of the zebrafish anti-wrinkle evaluation experiment (UVB-induced model) in Test Example 3 of the present invention.

[0023] Figure 3 This is a graph showing the anti-wrinkle efficacy test results (quantification) of the zebrafish anti-wrinkle evaluation experiment (UVB-induced model) in Test Example 3 of the present invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0024] The technical solution of the present invention is further described below in conjunction with the accompanying drawings and through specific implementation methods. However, the following examples are only simplified examples of the present invention and do not represent or limit the scope of protection of the present invention. The scope of protection of the present invention shall be subject to the claims.

[0025] Unless otherwise specified, the raw materials and materials used in the examples of the present invention are purchased through general commercial channels.

[0026] The source information of some relevant raw materials, materials and instruments involved in the following examples or comparative examples is as follows:

[0027] Water was prepared by Millipore water purifier; potassium cetyl phosphate was provided by DSM Nutritional Products China; butanediol was produced by Shandong Haike Xinyuan Materials Technology Co., Ltd.; ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer was produced by Clariant Chemical (China) Co., Ltd.; xanthan gum was provided by Danisco (China) Co., Ltd.; ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate was produced by Anhui Sannobe Chemical Technology Co., Ltd.; dibutyl adipate, diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, sucrose polystearate and cetyl palmitate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine were provided by BASF; polydimethylsiloxane was provided by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.; triacontyl PVP was produced by Ashland; octocrylene and cetearyl alcohol were provided by Emery oleochemicals; p-hydroxyacetophenone was produced by Symrise (Shanghai) Co., Ltd.; 1,2-pentanediol was produced by Lanxess Chemical (China) Co., Ltd. The above-mentioned sucrose polystearate and cetyl palmitate are a product mixed together.

[0028] Soluble collagen is composed of photocurable collagen and photoinitiator, and is sourced from Chengdu Yizhen Biotechnology Co., Ltd., with the specification model being GM8000.

[0029] The extract of Phyllanthus emblica fruit is prepared in the laboratory by the following method:

[0030] 1) crushing step: crushing the dried and cleaned emblica fruit of the plant Phyllanthus urinaria of the Euphorbiaceae family in Yunnan with a plant crusher, and passing through a 4-6 mesh sieve to obtain the emblica fruit powder raw material;

[0031] 2) Extraction step: accurately weigh 100 g of crushed emblica fruit powder, add 1000 ml of 60% ethanol-water mixture, reflux extract at 60° C. for 3 hours, extract twice, combine the filtrate, extract and filter to obtain an extract;

[0032] 3) Concentration step: Use a rotary evaporator to concentrate the extract until the volume is 1 / 10 of the original volume and there is no alcohol taste, to obtain a concentrated solution;

[0033] 4) Freeze-drying step: using a freeze dryer to dry the concentrated solution into powder at low temperature to obtain the emblica fruit extract.

[0034] The yield of the emblica fruit extract obtained by the method is ≥60.0%, the polyphenol content of the emblica fruit extract is ≥40.0%, and the gallic acid content is ≥2.0%.

[0035] <Examples 1-3> and <Comparative Examples 1-3>

[0036] The following are Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-3. Different sunscreen cosmetics (sunscreen lotions) were prepared according to the following methods. The specific components are shown in Table 1 and the properties are shown in Table 2.

[0037] S1, accurately weigh each component according to the formula in Table 1;

[0038] S2, put purified water into the main preparation tank, premix the A phase components potassium cetyl phosphate, thickener (ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer, xanthan gum) and polyol (butylene glycol) evenly, add them into the main preparation tank, stir and heat to 75°C to 85°C until the material is evenly dispersed;

[0039] S3, put the oil-soluble chemical sunscreen (ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, octocrylene), dibutyl adipate, polydimethylsiloxane, sucrose polystearate and cetyl palmitate, triacontyl PVP, cetearyl alcohol into the oil phase pre-mixing tank in sequence, heat to 80° C. to 85° C., dissolve and mix evenly, and obtain phase B;

[0040] S4, add phase B to phase A in the main preparation tank, maintain homogenization and emulsification at 75°C to 85°C for 5min to 10min until uniform, and start cooling;

[0041] S5, when the temperature of the main preparation tank drops to 75°C, add phase C (parahydroxyacetophenone) into the main preparation tank, mix well, and continue to cool;

[0042] S6, when the temperature drops to 40°C to 45°C, 1,2-pentanediol, soluble collagen, and emblica fruit extract are added to the main preparation tank in sequence, and stirring is continued to cool down;

[0043] S7. When the temperature drops to 38°C or below, filter the material, and can it after passing the inspection to obtain the sunscreen lotion.

[0044] Table 1 Sunscreen lotion formula

[0045]

[0046] <Test Example 1>

[0047] The stability of each sunscreen preparation in Table 1 was tested at -15°C, 25°C, 40°C and 49°C for 30 days, 60 days and 90 days respectively to observe the stability of each sunscreen preparation. All groups of sunscreen preparations passed the stability test. The specific stability test results are shown in Table 2.

[0048] Table 2 Results of stability study of sunscreen preparations in each group

[0049]

[0050] <Test Example 2>

[0051] This experiment uses the standard in vitro test method of Colipa2011 to measure the sunscreen effect of sunscreen preparations by measuring the ultraviolet absorbance or transmittance of sunscreen preparations. This experiment uses the UV2000s sun protection factor analyzer (produced by Labsphere). The samples were evenly spread on a polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) plate, and after being protected from light for 15 minutes, the sun protection factor of each group of samples was tested using an ultraviolet transmittance analyzer (sun protection factor 1). Then, each group of samples was placed under natural light for 2 hours and the sun protection factor (sun protection factor 2) was tested again to evaluate the sunscreen performance of each group of sunscreen products, as shown in Table 3, Figure 1 shown.

[0052] Table 3 Sun protection factor determination results of each group of sunscreen preparations

[0053]

[0054]

[0055] Figure 1 (A) is the sun protection factor of each group of samples without any treatment. Compared with comparative examples 2 to 3, the sun protection factors of Examples 1 to 3 are increased, indicating that the soluble collagen and the emblica fruit extract can synergistically enhance the sun protection factor of the formula.

[0056] Figure 1 (B) is the sun protection factor of each group of samples after being exposed to natural light for 2 hours. After 2 hours of natural light exposure, the sun protection factor of comparative example 1 is significantly reduced. And compared with comparative examples 2 to 3, the sun protection factors of examples 1 to 3 are increased, indicating that the use of soluble collagen and emblica fruit extract as a light protection composition in the formulation has certain advantages, for example, it can reduce the number of times sunscreen products are used in outdoor activities.

[0057] The samples were evenly spread on the PMMA plate, protected from light for 15 minutes, and then the PMMA plate was immersed in water for 20 minutes and then taken out and dried for 1 hour in a dark place. The sun protection factor (sun protection factor 3) was tested to evaluate the waterproof performance of each group of products. The results are shown in Table 3. Figure 1 (C).

[0058] from Figure 1 (C) It can be seen that after soaking in water for 20 minutes, the sun protection factor is arranged from large to small as follows: Example 2> Example 3> Example 1> Comparative Example 3> Comparative Example 2> Comparative Example 1. SPSS statistical calculations show that the products of Example 1, Example 2, and Example 3 have good waterproof performance, which indirectly reflects that soluble collagen and emblica fruit extract have certain waterproof advantages as light protection compositions.

[0059] <Test Example 3>

[0060] Sunlight ultraviolet radiation can cause photoaging, resulting in reduced collagen synthesis and the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles on the skin. This experiment used a zebrafish anti-wrinkle evaluation experiment (UVB-induced model) to evaluate the anti-photoaging effect of the photoprotective composition.

[0061] AB wild-type zebrafish were selected. Normally developed 2dpf zebrafish fry were selected and placed in a six-well cell culture plate, with 15 fry in each well. The embryo culture medium in the six-well cell culture plate was removed without harming the fry, and 3 mL of each group of samples of the corresponding concentration were quickly added to each well. The six-well cell culture plate was wrapped with aluminum foil and incubated in a biochemical incubator (28.5±1.0℃) in the dark for 2 hours, and irradiated with ultraviolet light using a phototoxic UVB lamp, with a radiation intensity of about 80mJ / cm 2 After that, the cells were incubated in a biochemical incubator at 28.5±1.0℃ in the dark until 3dpf (post-incubation time 22h), and observed and photographed with a stereo microscope. The experimental groups were as follows: control group: containing zebrafish fry and standard dilution water, without modeling; model group: containing zebrafish fry and standard dilution water, with ultraviolet irradiation modeling; experimental group: containing the test substance and zebrafish fry, with ultraviolet irradiation modeling.

[0062] Ultraviolet radiation can cause changes in collagen and elastin in the skin structure, causing the zebrafish tail fin to shrink and deform. Figure 2 As shown, the area of ​​the zebrafish tail fin was quantified. Figure 3 . Under ultraviolet light irradiation, the tail fin of zebrafish in the model group appeared wrinkled. After administering the emblica fruit extract and soluble collagen respectively, the degree of wrinkling of the tail fin was alleviated, indicating that these two substances have a certain anti-wrinkle effect. After adding the photoprotective composition, the degree of wrinkling of the zebrafish tail fin induced by ultraviolet light was significantly reduced. Therefore, the emblica fruit extract and soluble collagen can synergistically enhance their effectiveness and effectively alleviate the wrinkling of the zebrafish tail fin caused by ultraviolet light, thereby indirectly reflecting that the photoprotective composition can resist photoaging caused by ultraviolet rays to a certain extent.

[0063] Table 4 Zebrafish anti-wrinkle test results

[0064]

[0065] The applicant declares that the above is only a specific implementation mode of the present invention, but the protection scope of the present invention is not limited thereto. Those skilled in the art should understand that any changes or substitutions that can be easily thought of by those skilled in the art within the technical scope disclosed by the present invention are within the protection scope and disclosure scope of the present invention.

Claims

1. A light protection composition, characterized in that The invention comprises soluble collagen and emblica fruit extract, wherein the mass ratio of the soluble collagen to the emblica fruit extract is 75:1-25:1, and the soluble collagen comprises photocurable collagen and a photoinitiator.

2. The photoprotective composition according to claim 1, characterized in that The photocurable collagen is collagen modified by acylation with 2-methacrylic anhydride.

3. The photoprotective composition according to claim 2, characterized in that The photocurable collagen comprises an arginine-glycine-aspartic acid motif and a matrix metalloproteinase substrate motif.

4. The photoprotective composition according to claim 1, characterized in that The photoinitiator includes one or more of dimethylaminophenylvinyl heptylmethylthiazolium iodide, isooctyl p-dimethylaminobenzoate, isopentyl p-dimethylaminobenzoate, 2-hydroxy-2-methylpropiophenone, 2-hydroxy-4'-(2-hydroxyethoxy)-2-methylpropiophenone, lithium phenyl-2,4,6-trimethylbenzoylphosphonate, and 2,2'-(1,2-diazolylidene)bis[N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-2-methylpropionamide.

5. The photoprotective composition according to claim 1, characterized in that The emblica fruit extract is extracted from the dried and pitted fruits of the emblica fruit of Yunnan plant of the genus Phyllanthus in the Euphorbiaceae family.

6. Use of the photoprotective composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5 in ultraviolet protection products.

7. A sunscreen cosmetic, characterized in that: Based on 100 parts of total mass, it includes the following components: UV sunscreen, 5-20 parts; Emulsifier, 1-5 parts; Film former, 0.5-2 parts; Emollient, 5-20 parts; Light protection composition, 3-5 parts; Thickener, 0.2-0.6 parts; Moisturizer, 5-10 parts; water, balance; Wherein, the light protection composition is the light protection composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5.

8. The sunscreen cosmetic according to claim 7, characterized in that: The ultraviolet sunscreen is three or more of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, ethylhexyl triazone, octocrylene or titanium dioxide; The emulsifier is one or more of sucrose polystearate, cetyl palmitate, polysorbate-60 or potassium cetyl phosphate; The emollient is one or more of polydimethylsiloxane, dibutyl adipate, and cetearyl alcohol.

9. The sunscreen cosmetic according to claim 7, characterized in that: The film former is triacontyl PVP, and the moisturizer is one or more of glycerin, butylene glycol or pentylene glycol.

10. The sunscreen cosmetic according to claim 7, characterized in that: The thickener is ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer and xanthan gum in a mass ratio of 4:1 to 3:1.

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