Three-dimensional granular jeans wear and manufacturing method thereof
By adopting woven warp and weft yarns with high yarn ratios, and performing specific treatments and interwoven structures, the problems of low weaving efficiency and easy fabric cracking in the prior art are solved, and the combination of three-dimensional graininess and traditional denim fabric texture is achieved.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- CN202411779590.2
- Authority / Receiving Office
- CN · China
- Patent Type
- Applications(China)
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2024-12-05
- Publication Date
- 2025-03-21
- Estimated Expiration
- 2044-12-05
AI Technical Summary
It is difficult for the prior art to produce denim clothing with three-dimensional grainy feel and traditional denim fabric texture while maintaining efficient weaving efficiency, and the fabric is prone to cracking and the production cost is high.
The woven warp and weft yarns are all cotton yarns. The yarns of the woven warp are 3 to 10 times that of the woven weft yarns. The twist coefficient and torsion resistance of the first yarn are higher than those of the second yarn. They are interwoven after steaming and steam treatment. The structure opposite to that of traditional denim fabrics is adopted, and they are post-organized and horizontally cut.
It improves weaving efficiency, the fabric is not easy to crack, and has excellent feel. It can make clothing with traditional denim fabric texture and grainy feel, and shows a similar aging effect after washing.
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Figure CN119663510A_ABST
Abstract
Description
Technical Field
[0001] The invention relates to three-dimensional granular denim clothing and a manufacturing method thereof, and belongs to the field of textiles. Background Art
[0002] Denim fabric is made of indigo-dyed warp yarn and white weft yarn. It has always been on the stage of fashion clothing due to its rough and tight characteristics, forming an enduring "denim" culture. With the development of the economy and the progress of society, consumers expect more styles and textures of fabrics, so continuous improvement can meet market demand.
[0003] Traditional denim fabrics are generally made of yarns of the same yarn count or yarns with similar yarn counts. The surface of the fabric is flat and the three-dimensional effect is not strong. If you want to make the fabric have a granular three-dimensional texture effect, you usually use warp and weft yarns with large yarn count differences.
[0004] If thin warp yarns are interwoven with thick weft yarns, it is difficult to make qualified denim fabrics. The warp yarns of denim fabrics need to be sizing and dyed, and the three-up-one-down twill structure is used during weaving to make more warp points on the front of the fabric. After garment making, it must be washed to show the unique distressed effect of denim fabrics on the front of the fabric. If 40S~80S warp yarns are interwoven with 6S~10S weft yarns, the warp points on the front of the fabric cannot cover the weft yarns well, making it difficult to create the texture and distressed effect of denim fabrics, and the fabric is prone to cracking.
[0005] If thick warp yarns are interwoven with thin weft yarns, a granular fabric can be obtained, but the production efficiency is low and there are many defects. For example, if 6S~10S warp yarns are interwoven with 40S~80S weft yarns, due to the large weft yarn count, the weft yarns are easy to break when weaving on a rapier loom. It is necessary to stop the machine to pull out the broken yarns and re-weave the weft yarns, which takes a lot of time. The weaving efficiency is low, only about 60%, and the length of the woven fabric is short. Moreover, a worker in the weaving workshop controls an average of 6 to 8 weaving machines. When weaving granular fabrics with thick warp yarns and thin weft yarns, the serious breakage causes a worker to be unable to control 6 to 8 machines. A worker can control at most 3 weaving machines, which further reduces production efficiency and increases production costs. In addition, the weft yarn breakage causes the machine to stop, which easily causes horizontal defects on the cloth surface, seriously reducing the quality of the fabric. This greatly increases the cost and there will also be fabric quality defects. Summary of the invention
[0006] In order to overcome the deficiencies of the prior art, the present invention provides a three-dimensional grainy denim garment and a manufacturing method thereof, which can not only produce the three-dimensional grainy denim garment with the unique texture of the denim fabric, but also maintain a high weaving efficiency.
[0007] The technical solution adopted by the present invention to solve its technical problem is: In a first aspect, the present application provides a method for producing three-dimensional grainy denim clothing, wherein the raw materials are woven warp yarns and woven weft yarns, both of which are cotton yarns, the yarn count of the woven warp yarns is 3 to 10 times the yarn count of the woven weft yarns, the woven warp yarns include a first yarn and a second yarn, the twist coefficient of the first yarn is 20% to 30% higher than the twist coefficient of the second yarn, and the torsional rigidity of the first yarn is 15% to 20% higher than the torsional rigidity of the second yarn; Before weaving, the first yarn is subjected to a yarn steaming treatment when it is wound on a bobbin, and the weft yarn to be woven is subjected to a steam treatment in a stretched state and then dyed; During weaving, the first yarn and the second yarn are arranged side by side in a ratio of 2:3, and the woven warp yarn and the woven weft yarn are interwoven in a three-under-one-over pattern; After weaving, the cloth blank is post-finished and then cut transversely so that the woven warp yarns are used as applied weft yarns and the woven weft yarns are used as applied warp yarns, and the three-dimensional grainy denim clothing is sewn.
[0008] The method for making three-dimensional grainy denim clothing provided in the present application interweaves thick woven weft yarns with thin woven warp yarns, so that the weft yarns are not easy to break during weaving, which is beneficial to improving weaving efficiency; two types of yarns with twist coefficients are used in the woven warp yarns, the first yarn with a high twist coefficient and high torsional rigidity is responsible for providing strength, and the second yarn with a low twist coefficient and low torsional rigidity is responsible for providing soft touch, toughness and drape, and the mix of the two yarns is beneficial to making the fabric not easy to crack, and has a good hand feel and is not stiff; in the method, the first yarn is also steamed, which is beneficial to relaxing the bending degree of the fibers in the yarn and eliminating the unbalanced internal stress between the fibers in the yarn force, so that the fibers in the yarn reach a relatively stable state, and the strength of the first yarn is further improved; the woven weft yarn is steam treated under a stretched state, which can make the yarn structure relatively stable, and thus optimize the fabric's resistance to slippage; the woven weft yarn is dyed, and the woven warp yarn is not dyed, and the weaving structure is opposite to that of traditional denim fabrics. After finishing, the warp yarns used in weaving are used as the weft yarns used in application, and the weft yarns used in weaving are used as the warp yarns used in application, which can just produce the texture of traditional denim fabrics and have a granular feel. After washing, it can have the same old effect as traditional denim fabrics.
[0009] Further, the yarn steaming process is a secondary cycle yarn steaming process, and the first yarn is covered with cotton cloth; The operation of each cycle includes: vacuumizing the yarn steamer, heating to 90°C, keeping warm for 8 minutes and then releasing the pressure, vacuumizing again, heating to 120°C, keeping warm for 65 minutes and then releasing the pressure, continuing to vacuumize, and finally returning to normal pressure.
[0010] By adopting this yarn steaming process, steam can be fully transferred to the yarn, so that the moisture in the yarn is evenly distributed, achieving a consistent degree of wetness, strength and friction coefficient, which is convenient for subsequent sizing and weaving. The cotton cloth covering the first yarn can prevent steam condensation water from dripping directly on the first yarn and affecting the uniform moisture distribution.
[0011] Furthermore, the woven weft yarn is subjected to a scouring treatment and a plasma treatment before being subjected to the steam treatment.
[0012] Scouring removes wax from the surface of cotton fibers, while plasma treatment slightly damages the yarn structure, making it easier to dye the woven weft yarn evenly.
[0013] Furthermore, the yarn count of the woven warp yarn is 4 to 8 times the yarn count of the woven weft yarn, the yarn count of the woven warp yarn is 40S to 60S, and the yarn count of the woven weft yarn is 6S to 12S.
[0014] Furthermore, the post-finishing process includes singeing treatment, desizing treatment and pre-shrinking treatment in sequence.
[0015] Furthermore, in the singeing treatment, the front and back sides of the fabric are singed once each, the temperature is 300°C to 500°C, and the speed is 70m / min to 85m / min; In the desizing treatment, the desizing enzyme concentration is 6 g / L-10 g / L, the temperature is 55° C.-65° C., and the vehicle speed is 60 m / min-80 m / min.
[0016] Furthermore, the post-finishing also includes a low-shrinkage treatment and an opening-width treatment between the desizing treatment and the pre-shrinkage treatment. In the low-shrinkage treatment, the fabric is subjected to a circulating water wash in a rope-like form, the treatment time is 60 minutes to 80 minutes, and the water temperature is 50°C to 60°C; after the low-shrinkage treatment, the fabric is subjected to the opening-width treatment to restore the fabric from a rope-like form to a surface form.
[0017] During the low shrinkage treatment, the cotton fibers will swell and the fibers inside the yarn will be squeezed, making the fibers in the yarn in a relatively stable state, which is beneficial to improving the strength of the fabric.
[0018] Furthermore, the post-finishing also includes liquid ammonia finishing between the desizing treatment and the low shrinkage treatment. In the liquid ammonia finishing, the liquid ammonia tank rolling pressure is 1 MPa and the vehicle speed is 65 m / min.
[0019] Liquid ammonia finishing is also a way to make the fibers swell. Low shrinkage treatment after liquid ammonia finishing can make the cotton fibers swell further.
[0020] Furthermore, the post-finishing also includes a stretching treatment between the desizing treatment and the liquid ammonia finishing, and the steps of the stretching treatment include: firstly immersing the fabric in an aqueous solution containing hydrophilic silicone oil; and then widening the fabric by 0.5 inch to 1 inch.
[0021] The stentering treatment creates space for relative sliding between the warp yarns and the weft yarns, which is beneficial for the subsequent liquid ammonia finishing and low shrinkage treatment to take full effect; allowing the fabric to absorb part of the hydrophilic silicone oil before stentering is beneficial for reducing fiber damage, especially fiber damage in the subsequent liquid ammonia finishing process.
[0022] In a second aspect, the present application provides a three-dimensional grainy denim garment, which is made by the three-dimensional grainy denim garment manufacturing method described in the first aspect, has a unique texture of denim fabric, a three-dimensional grainy feel, and is not easy to crack.
[0023] The beneficial effects of the present invention are as follows: the present invention interweaves thick woven weft yarns with thin woven warp yarns, the weft yarns are not easy to break during weaving, which is beneficial to improving weaving efficiency, and the mix of specific yarns that have been specifically treated makes the fabric not easy to crack and not stiff, and adopts a weaving structure opposite to that of traditional denim fabrics, the weft weave points can well cover the woven warp yarns, and after finishing and horizontal cutting, the original weft weave points become warp weave points that can well cover the applied weft yarns, so that the texture of traditional denim fabrics can be made and have a granular feel, and after washing, it can have the same distressed effect as traditional denim fabrics.
[0024] Other features and advantages of the present application will be described in the following description, and partly become apparent from the description, or understood by practicing the present application. The purpose and other advantages of the present application can be realized and obtained by the structures particularly pointed out in the written description and the drawings. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
[0025] Figure 1 It is a schematic diagram of the organizational structure of a blank cloth during weaving in a method for producing three-dimensional grainy denim clothing provided in an embodiment of the present application.
[0026] Figure 2 It is a schematic diagram of the fabric structure after horizontal cutting in a method for making three-dimensional grainy denim clothing provided in an embodiment of the present application.
[0027] Figure 3 It is a flow chart of a method for producing three-dimensional grainy denim clothing provided in an embodiment of the present application.
[0028] Reference numerals: 12, woven weft yarn; 3, first yarn; 4, second yarn. DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0029] The embodiments of the present invention are described in detail below, examples of which are shown in the accompanying drawings, wherein the same or similar reference numerals throughout represent the same or similar elements or elements having the same or similar functions. The embodiments described below with reference to the accompanying drawings are exemplary and are only used to explain the present invention, and cannot be understood as limiting the present invention.
[0030] The disclosure below provides many different embodiments or examples to implement different structures of the present invention. In order to simplify the disclosure of the present invention, the parts and settings of specific examples are described below. Of course, they are only examples, and the purpose is not to limit the present invention. In addition, the present invention can repeat reference numbers and / or reference letters in different examples, and this repetition is for the purpose of simplification and clarity, which itself does not indicate the relationship between the various embodiments and / or settings discussed.
[0031] It should be understood that, under the premise of no conflict, any and all embodiments of the present invention can be combined with the technical features in any other embodiment or multiple other embodiments to obtain another embodiment. The present invention includes such a combination to obtain another embodiment.
[0032] Unless otherwise specified, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the standard meaning in the field to which the claimed subject matter belongs. If there are multiple definitions for a term, the definition herein shall prevail.
[0033] When the denim fabric with grainy texture is produced by the method in the prior art, unqualified products are often produced, which fail to meet the standard requirements and cannot be sold, thus greatly increasing the cost of good products.
[0034] Reference Figures 1 to 3 ( Figure 3 The elliptical frame is the material, and the rectangular frame is the step). The embodiment of the present application provides a method for producing three-dimensional granular denim clothing. The raw materials are a woven warp yarn and a woven weft yarn 12 both of which are cotton yarns. The yarn count of the woven warp yarn is 3 to 10 times the yarn count of the woven weft yarn 12. The raw materials of the woven warp yarn include a first yarn 3 and a second yarn 4. The twist coefficient of the first yarn 3 is 20% to 30% higher than that of the second yarn 4. The torsional stiffness of the first yarn 3 is 15% to 20% higher than that of the second yarn 4.
[0035] Before weaving, the first yarn 3 is steamed when it is wound on the bobbin; the weft yarn 12 is steamed in a stretched state and then dyed. The steam treatment and dyeing of the weft yarn 12 can be completed in a common sizing and dyeing combined machine, which is equivalent to changing the object in the warping to dyeing steps in the prior art to the weft yarn 12, and no sizing is required; the requirements for steam treatment of the weft yarn 12 are the same as the requirements for steam treatment of denim warp yarn in the prior art.
[0036] Reference Figure 1 During weaving, the first yarn 3 and the second yarn 4 are arranged side by side in a ratio of 2:3, and the woven warp yarns and the woven weft yarns 12 are interwoven in a three-down-one-up manner.
[0037] After weaving, the cloth is finished and then cut horizontally, such as Figure 2 As shown, the woven warp yarn is used as the applied weft yarn, and the woven weft yarn 12 is used as the applied warp yarn, and the three-dimensional grainy denim clothing is obtained by continuing to sew.
[0038] This approach has the following advantages: (1) By interweaving thick weft yarns with thin warp yarns, the weft yarns are less likely to break during weaving, which is beneficial to improving weaving efficiency.
[0039] (2) The weft yarns are dyed, while the warp yarns are not. The weft yarns are woven with a structure opposite to that of traditional denim fabrics. The weft yarns are thicker than the warp yarns, and the weft weave points can well cover the warp yarns. After finishing, the weft yarns are cut horizontally, and the weft yarns are used as the weft yarns when applied, and the weft yarns are used as the warp yarns when applied. This can just produce the texture of traditional denim fabrics, and the original weft weave points become the warp weave points that can well cover the applied weft yarns. Therefore, the fabric has a granular feel and a similar texture to ordinary denim fabrics. After washing, it can have the same distressed effect as traditional denim fabrics.
[0040] (3) Two types of yarns with different twist coefficients are used in the woven warp yarn. The first yarn with high twist coefficient and high torsional stiffness is responsible for providing strength, while the second yarn with low twist coefficient and low torsional stiffness is responsible for providing soft touch, toughness and drape. Mixing the two types of yarns is conducive to making the fabric less prone to cracking, and has a good hand feel and is not stiff.
[0041] (4) Based on (3), the first yarn is steamed, which is beneficial to relax the bending degree of the fibers in the yarn, eliminate the unbalanced internal stress between the fibers in the yarn, make the fibers in the yarn reach a relatively stable state, and further enhance the strength of the first yarn. The woven weft yarn is steamed under tension, which can make the yarn structure relatively stable, and thus further optimize the fabric's anti-slippage performance.
[0042] In a preferred embodiment, the yarn count of the woven warp yarn is 4 to 8 times the yarn count of the woven weft yarn 12, the yarn count of the woven warp yarn is 40S to 60S, and the yarn count of the woven weft yarn 12 is 6S to 12S, which is beneficial to taking into account the strength, drape and crack resistance of the fabric.
[0043] The yarn steaming process is a secondary cycle yarn steaming. The first yarn is placed in the yarn steamer. Before the yarn is steamed, the rolls of the first yarn are covered with cotton cloth. The yarn steamer is first evacuated to negative pressure (490Pa), heated to 90°C, kept warm for 8 minutes, and released. Then the yarn steamer is evacuated to negative pressure (490Pa), heated to 120°C, and kept warm for 65 minutes. The moisture in the form of low-temperature saturated steam in the yarn steamer is transferred to the first yarn, and then released. Then the yarn is evacuated to negative pressure (490Pa), and finally air is introduced to restore to normal pressure. The pot door is opened and cooled automatically. The above process is repeated twice to complete the cycle yarn steaming.
[0044] Covering the yarn with cotton cloth before steaming can prevent water droplets from affecting the yarn. The low-temperature yarn steaming process can fully transfer steam to the first yarn, and the moisture in the yarn is evenly distributed, achieving consistent strength and friction effect; uniform moisture distribution is conducive to uniform sizing; uniform sizing and consistent strength and friction effect are conducive to smooth weaving and ensure the strength of the cloth.
[0045] At the same time, the yarn steaming treatment can relax the bending degree of the fibers in the yarn, eliminate the unbalanced stress between the fibers in the yarn, make the fibers in the yarn in a relatively stable state, which is beneficial to improve the strength of the yarn, and reduce the shrinkage of the yarn, so that the performance of the yarn is stable.
[0046] Then, the woven warp yarn is sized and dried.
[0047] The woven weft yarn 12 is also subjected to scouring treatment and plasma treatment before being subjected to steam treatment. The scouring treatment of the woven weft yarn can remove wax and other impurities on the surface of most cotton fibers, and the plasma treatment of the scouring yarn destroys the structure of the fiber surface. The high-temperature steam treatment in the sizing and dyeing combined machine is conducive to relative transfer between fibers in the yarn, making the yarn structure relatively stable. The woven weft yarn after the high-temperature steam treatment is dyed, and the process parameters for dyeing warp yarn in the traditional process can be used.
[0048] The conventional finishing of denim fabrics includes singeing, desizing and shrinking.
[0049] Reference Figure 3 In the most preferred embodiment of the present application, post-finishing includes singeing treatment, desizing treatment, stretching treatment, liquid ammonia finishing, low shrinkage treatment, opening treatment and pre-shrinkage treatment in sequence, and the specific requirements are as follows.
[0050] Singeing treatment: The fabric is singed in a singeing machine, once on the front and once on the back, at a treatment temperature of 300℃~500℃, 70m / min~85m / min, to remove fiber hairiness on the surface of the fabric.
[0051] Desizing treatment: The fabric after singeing treatment is desizing. The concentration of desizing enzyme is 6g / L~10g / L, the treatment temperature is 55℃~65℃, and the speed is 60m / min~80m / min. The desizing enzyme is used to remove the sizing on the surface of the fabric, making the fabric relatively soft.
[0052] Tentering treatment: The fabric after desizing treatment is subjected to tentering treatment. In the tentering machine, the fabric is first dipped and treated, and hydrophilic silicone oil is added to the water tank. This can evenly cover the outer layer of the cotton fiber with a protective film, slowing down the embrittlement effect of subsequent liquid ammonia treatment on the cotton fiber and reducing damage to the fiber. After desizing treatment, it is easier to perform tentering treatment. During the tentering treatment, the width of the fabric is widened by 0.5 inches to 1 inch, so that there is space for relative sliding between the warp and weft yarns, reducing the force between the warp and weft yarns, which is beneficial to the subsequent processing steps.
[0053] Liquid ammonia finishing: The liquid ammonia tank rolling pressure is 1MPa, and the speed is 65m / min. By reasonably controlling the rolling pressure, reducing the amount of liquid on the fabric, and increasing the speed, the fiber swells into a round shape, while reducing the impact of liquid ammonia on the fiber performance. Then wash the fabric with clean water, and the washing tank temperature is 65℃.
[0054] Low shrinkage treatment: The fabric after stenting is subjected to low shrinkage treatment. The fabric is washed with clean water under low tension in the machine. Specifically, the fabric is washed in a rope-like manner in a circulating water, and the treatment time is 60min~80min, and the water temperature is 50℃~60℃, so that the fabric shrinks effectively, especially in the weft direction; cotton fibers will swell further after absorbing moisture, the length of the fibers will become shorter, and relative transfer will occur between the fibers, and the fibers in the center of the yarn will be further squeezed, so that the fibers in the yarn are in a relatively stable state, eliminating the internal stress that destroys the equilibrium state between the fibers. Since the fabric has been simply stented, it is beneficial for the warp and weft yarns to have enough space for relative movement during low shrinkage treatment, and finally reach a stable state, thereby improving the strength of the fabric.
[0055] Opening: The fabric is opened to restore the fabric from rope state to flat state.
[0056] Pre-shrinkage treatment: The fabric after opening is pre-shrunk, and the process parameters are the same as those of the pre-shrinkage treatment of ordinary denim fabrics.
[0057] Example 1 The raw materials used are both cotton warp yarn and woven weft yarn, the count of the woven weft yarn is 12S, the woven warp yarn includes a first yarn and a second yarn, both of which have a count of 36S, the twist coefficient of the first yarn is 20% higher than that of the second yarn, and the torsional stiffness of the first yarn is 15% higher than that of the second yarn.
[0058] Before weaving, the first yarn is steamed when it is wound on a bobbin, and both the first yarn and the second yarn are sized; the weft yarn to be woven is steamed and dyed in a sizing and dyeing combined machine.
[0059] During weaving, the first yarn and the second yarn are arranged side by side in a ratio of 2:3, and the woven warp yarn and the woven weft yarn are interwoven in a three-down-one-up pattern. The weaving efficiency is 98.8%.
[0060] After weaving, the cloth is post-finished, cut horizontally and sewn to obtain three-dimensional grainy denim clothing.
[0061] The post-finishing includes singeing, desizing and pre-shrinking.
[0062] Fabric stiffness is usually used to evaluate the softness of fabrics, and also determines the drape and touch feel of fabrics. The YG522 electronic stiffness tester was used to test the bending properties of denim fabrics before and after washing. The calculation expression of bending stiffness is as follows:
[0063] (cN.cm) Where C is the bending length, l is the extension length, θ is the inclination angle, B is the bending stiffness, and W is the weight of the fabric per square meter (g / m 2 ). The greater the fabric bending rigidity, the harder the fabric is; conversely, the softer the fabric is and the better the hand feel is.
[0064] The warp bending stiffness of the fabric was tested as above (direction parallel to the woven warp yarn), and the result was 0.3862 cN.cm. According to Section 9.2.1 of GB / T 21294-2014 Test Methods for Physical and Chemical Properties of Clothing, the denim fabric was tested for cracking (direction parallel to the woven warp yarn), and the result was 0.41cm.
[0065] Example 2 The raw materials used are cotton warp yarn and woven weft yarn, the count of the woven weft yarn is 8S, the woven warp yarn includes a first yarn and a second yarn, both of which have a count of 40S, the twist coefficient of the first yarn is 30% higher than that of the second yarn, and the torsional stiffness of the first yarn is 20% higher than that of the second yarn.
[0066] Before weaving, the first yarn is steamed when it is wound on a bobbin, and both the first yarn and the second yarn are sized; the weft yarn to be woven is steamed and dyed in a sizing and dyeing combined machine.
[0067] During weaving, the first yarn and the second yarn are arranged side by side in a ratio of 2:3, and the woven warp yarn and the woven weft yarn are interwoven in a three-down-one-up pattern. The weaving efficiency is 98.1%.
[0068] After weaving, the cloth is post-finished, cut horizontally and sewn to obtain three-dimensional grainy denim clothing.
[0069] The post-finishing process includes singeing, desizing, stentering, liquid ammonia finishing, low shrinkage, opening and pre-shrinkage. In the stentering process, the fabric is first dipped, and the water tank contains 12g / L hydrophilic silicone oil (TF-4881, Chuanhua Zhilian Co., Ltd.). After stentering, the width of the fabric is widened by 0.5 inches. The liquid ammonia tank rolling pressure is 1MPa, and the rolling rate is measured to be 30%. The speed is 65m / min. After liquid ammonia finishing, the fabric is washed with clean water, and the washing tank temperature is 65℃. The low shrinkage treatment time is 60min, and the water temperature is 50℃.
[0070] The warp bending stiffness of the fabric was tested, and the result was 0.4285 cN.cm. According to Section 9.2.1 of GB / T 21294-2014 Test methods for physical and chemical properties of clothing, the denim fabric was tested for cracking (parallel to the woven warp yarn), and the result was 0.36cm.
[0071] Comparative Example 1 The raw materials used are both cotton yarn for warp and weft, the count of the warp yarn is 12S, and the count of the weft yarn is 36S.
[0072] Before weaving, the warp yarns are dyed and sized in a sizing and dyeing machine.
[0073] During weaving, the warp and weft yarns are interwoven three up and one down. The weaving efficiency is 63.8%, and there are many horizontal defects in the cloth.
[0074] After weaving, the cloth is post-finished to obtain three-dimensional grainy denim clothing.
[0075] The post-finishing includes singeing, desizing and pre-shrinking.
[0076] The warp bending stiffness of the fabric was tested, and the result was 0.6851 cN.cm. According to Section 9.2.1 of GB / T 21294-2014 Test methods for physical and chemical properties of clothing, the denim fabric was tested for cracking (parallel to the woven warp yarn), and the result was 0.45cm.
[0077] Comparative Example 2 The raw materials used are both cotton yarns for woven warp yarn and woven weft yarn. The count of the woven weft yarn is 12S, and the count of the woven warp yarn is 36S.
[0078] Before weaving, the weft yarn is steam treated and dyed in a sizing and dyeing machine.
[0079] During weaving, the warp yarns and weft yarns are interwoven in a three-down-one-up pattern. The weaving efficiency is 95.2%.
[0080] After weaving, the cloth is post-finished and cut horizontally to obtain three-dimensional granular denim clothing.
[0081] The post-finishing includes singeing, desizing and pre-shrinking.
[0082] The warp bending stiffness of the fabric was tested, and the result was 0.3258 cN.cm. According to Section 9.2.1 of GB / T 21294-2014 Test methods for physical and chemical properties of clothing, the denim fabric was tested for cracking (parallel to the woven warp yarn), and the result was 0.56cm.
[0083] The present invention uses the warp yarns in weaving as the weft yarns in application, and the weft yarns in weaving as the warp yarns in application, so as to achieve the effect of thick warp yarns and thin weft yarns in fabrics, and solve the quality problem of crossbars caused by weaving breakage. It is beneficial for workshop workers to control multiple looms. The fabrics prepared by this method have a high pass rate, and can effectively solve the quality problems of weft bends and cracks in the fabrics, achieve a three-dimensional granular texture effect of the fabrics, and the softness of the fabrics is relatively improved.
[0084] In the description of this specification, the description with reference to the terms "one embodiment", "certain embodiments", "illustrative embodiments", "examples", "specific examples", or "some examples" means that the specific features, structures, materials, or characteristics described in conjunction with the embodiment or example are included in at least one embodiment or example of the present invention. In this specification, the schematic representation of the above terms does not necessarily refer to the same embodiment or example. Moreover, the specific features, structures, materials, or characteristics described may be combined in any one or more embodiments or examples in a suitable manner.
[0085] The above is a preferred embodiment of the present invention. It should be pointed out that a person skilled in the art can make several improvements and modifications without departing from the principle of the present invention. These improvements and modifications are also considered to be within the scope of protection of the present invention.
Claims
1. A method for producing three-dimensional granular denim clothing, wherein the raw materials are woven warp yarns and woven weft yarns, both of which are cotton yarns, and the method is characterized in that: The yarn count of the woven warp yarn is 3 to 10 times the yarn count of the woven weft yarn, the woven warp yarn includes a first yarn and a second yarn, the twist coefficient of the first yarn is 20% to 30% higher than the twist coefficient of the second yarn, and the torsional rigidity of the first yarn is 15% to 20% higher than the torsional rigidity of the second yarn; Before weaving, the first yarn is subjected to a yarn steaming treatment when it is wound on a bobbin, and the weft yarn to be woven is subjected to a steam treatment in a stretched state and then dyed; During weaving, the first yarn and the second yarn are arranged side by side in a ratio of 2:3, and the woven warp yarn and the woven weft yarn are interwoven in a three-under-one-over pattern; After weaving, the cloth blank is post-finished and then cut transversely so that the woven warp yarns are used as applied weft yarns and the woven weft yarns are used as applied warp yarns, and the three-dimensional grainy denim clothing is sewn.
2. The method for producing three-dimensional grainy denim clothing according to claim 1, characterized in that: The yarn steaming process is a secondary cycle yarn steaming process, and the first yarn is covered with cotton cloth; The operation of each cycle includes: vacuumizing the yarn steamer, heating to 90°C, keeping warm for 8 minutes and then releasing the pressure, vacuumizing again, heating to 120°C, keeping warm for 65 minutes and then releasing the pressure, continuing to vacuumize, and finally returning to normal pressure.
3. The method for producing three-dimensional grainy denim clothing according to claim 1, characterized in that: The woven weft yarn is also subjected to a scouring treatment and a plasma treatment before being subjected to the steam treatment.
4. The method for producing three-dimensional grainy denim clothing according to claim 1, characterized in that: The yarn count of the woven warp yarn is 4 to 8 times the yarn count of the woven weft yarn, the yarn count of the woven warp yarn is 40S to 60S, and the yarn count of the woven weft yarn is 6S to 12S.
5. The method for producing three-dimensional grainy denim clothing according to claim 1, characterized in that: The post-finishing process includes singeing treatment, desizing treatment and pre-shrinking treatment in sequence.
6. The method for producing three-dimensional grainy denim clothing according to claim 5, characterized in that: In the singeing treatment, the front and back sides of the fabric are singed once each, the temperature is 300°C to 500°C, and the speed is 70m / min to 85m / min; In the desizing treatment, the desizing enzyme concentration is 6 g / L-10 g / L, the temperature is 55° C.-65° C., and the vehicle speed is 60 m / min-80 m / min.
7. The method for producing three-dimensional grainy denim clothing according to claim 5, characterized in that: The post-finishing also includes a low-shrinkage treatment and an opening-width treatment between the desizing treatment and the pre-shrinkage treatment. In the low-shrinkage treatment, the fabric is subjected to a circulating water wash in a rope-like form, the treatment time is 60 minutes to 80 minutes, and the water temperature is 50°C to 60°C; after the low-shrinkage treatment, the fabric is subjected to the opening-width treatment to restore the fabric from a rope-like form to a surface form.
8. The method for producing three-dimensional grainy denim clothing according to claim 7, characterized in that: The post-finishing also includes liquid ammonia finishing between the desizing treatment and the low shrinkage treatment. In the liquid ammonia finishing, the liquid ammonia tank rolling pressure is 1 MPa and the vehicle speed is 65 m / min.
9. The method for producing three-dimensional grainy denim clothing according to claim 8, characterized in that: The post-finishing also includes a tentering treatment between the desizing treatment and the liquid ammonia treatment, and the steps of the tentering treatment include: firstly immersing the fabric in an aqueous solution containing hydrophilic silicone oil; and then widening the fabric by 0.5 inch to 1 inch.
10. A three-dimensional grainy denim garment, characterized in that: The three-dimensional grainy denim clothing is made by the method for making the three-dimensional grainy denim clothing according to any one of claims 1 to 9.
Citation Information
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