Double-sided knitted fabric

Abstract

The invention discloses a double-sided knitted fabric. The fabric comprises A yarn and C yarn, the A yarn only appears on one side of the fabric, and the A yarn forms a looped structural unit; the yarn C is a connecting yarn and forms looping and / or tucking structure units on the two sides of the fabric, and in a complete texture on one side of the fabric, the number of the looping structure units does not exceed 50%; the yarn C is the yarn with the stretching recovery rate being 30% or above; the tightness coefficient A of the fabric is more than 1.0. The double-sided knitted fabric is good in elasticity, thick in texture, good in pilling resistance and suitable for being used for manufacturing fleeces, jackets, casual pants and the like.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention relates to a double-knitted fabric. Background Technology

[0002] Knitted fabrics are made of interlocking loops, which can easily shift and the loose weave makes them prone to pilling. Pilling affects the feel and appearance of garments, severely reducing the consumer's wearing experience. This not only negatively impacts the brand's reputation for quality but also significantly shortens the garment's lifespan, resulting in resource waste.

[0003] To address this, numerous studies have been conducted. For instance, Chinese patent document CN115748069A discloses an anti-snagging, anti-pilling fabric and its preparation method. Specifically, the fabric includes a front layer and a back layer, with twelve rows forming a cycle. Following the arrangement of the upper needle plate to the lower needle cylinder, the first to twelfth rows of the weaving method are disclosed sequentially. The greige fabric woven in this way undergoes pretreatment, pre-setting treatment, dyeing treatment, napping treatment, and re-setting treatment in sequence. Although this improves the anti-pilling performance of the fabric, the outer and inner layers of this fabric use 8-30s cotton staple fiber yarn. Due to the limitation of the loops in the outer and inner cotton yarns, the fabric still suffers from low elasticity and a weak sense of thickness.

[0004] For example, Chinese patent document CN115323592B discloses a fabric with a connecting layer that prevents snagging, pilling, and fuzzing, and its preparation method. Specifically, it discloses a fabric comprising a surface layer, a connecting layer, and a bottom layer, with the surface and bottom layers connected by the connecting layer. The connecting layer is formed of multifilaments, and heat treatment enhances the crimp and elastic recovery of the connecting layer fibers, thereby guiding further shrinkage of the loops in the surface and bottom layers of the fabric, improving the bulkiness and stability of the connecting layer. Furthermore, the yarn length is controlled using a slightly smaller method, solving the pilling and snagging problems that are common in air-layer fabrics. However, this fabric uses 30s Siro compact spun cotton yarn for both the surface and inner layers. Due to the limitation of the loops in the surface and inner yarns, coupled with the slightly smaller yarn length control, the fabric's elasticity decreases, and it suffers from a lack of substantial feel. Summary of the Invention

[0005] The purpose of this invention is to provide a double-sided knitted fabric that is simple to manufacture, has good elasticity, a thick feel, and excellent anti-pilling properties.

[0006] The technical solution of the present invention is as follows:

[0007] The double-knitted fabric of the present invention comprises A yarn and C yarn, wherein the A yarn appears only on one side of the fabric and forms a looped structural unit; the C yarn is a connecting yarn that forms looped and / or tucked structural units on both sides of the fabric, and in a complete weave on one side of the fabric, the proportion of the number of looped structural units does not exceed 50%; the C yarn is a yarn with a stretch recovery rate of 30% or more; and the tightness coefficient A of the fabric is 1.0 or more.

[0008] The knitted fabric of the present invention, through specific structural design and yarn configuration, achieves a double-sided knitted fabric with good elasticity, good thickness and excellent pilling resistance, and is suitable for making sweatshirts, jackets, casual pants, etc. Attached Figure Description

[0009] Figure 1 This is a schematic diagram of tissue 1 in Example 1.

[0010] Figure 2 This is a schematic diagram of tissue 2 in Example 2.

[0011] Figure 3 This is a schematic diagram of tissue 3 in Example 4.

[0012] Figure 4 This is a schematic diagram of tissue 4 in Example 5.

[0013] Figure 5 This is a schematic diagram of tissue 5 in Comparative Example 1. Detailed Implementation

[0014] The double-sided knitted fabric of the present invention comprises yarn A and yarn C. Yarn A is a yarn that appears only on one side of the fabric, that is, yarn A is not connected to the other side of the fabric. This is because if yarn A is connected to the other side of the fabric, when yarn A is damaged due to pilling on one side of the fabric, the entire yarn of yarn A, including the looped portion on the other side, will also be damaged, resulting in a decrease in the fabric's anti-pilling properties.

[0015] In this invention, the side containing yarn A is called side A, and the other side is called side B. When both sides contain yarns that appear only on one side, side A and side B are not clearly distinguished; one side is marked as side A, and the other side as side B. When the fabric has a napped side, the napped side is side B, and the non-naked side is side A.

[0016] In this invention, yarn A is a yarn that appears only on one side of the fabric, and yarn A forms a structural unit containing loops. That is, yarn A is not connected to the other side of the fabric. This structure preserves an unconnected hollow area between the two sides of the fabric, increasing the bulkiness and enhancing the feeling of fullness in the thickness direction. Here, "fullness" refers to the fabric's smooth, fluffy, and resilient feel, like flesh. Sensory evaluation can be used, or customized test parameters can be used for supplementary evaluation. Fabrics with a thickness of 0.8 mm or more, a compression rate of 10% or more in the thickness direction, and a compression elasticity rate of 70% or more are considered to have good fullness.

[0017] Preferably, all of yarn A forms looped structural units. Because looped structural units offer better stretchability, a higher proportion of looped structural units formed by yarn A results in greater allowance for stretching when the fabric is stretched in the horizontal / vertical directions, leading to better overall fabric elasticity. Since looped structural units provide better support than floats, the fabric is less prone to flattening when compressed in the thickness direction, exhibits better compression resilience, and has a more substantial overall feel.

[0018] C yarn is the connecting yarn, forming looped and / or tucked structural units on both sides of the fabric. In a complete weave on one side of the fabric (side A), the proportion of looped structural units formed by C yarn does not exceed 50%. This is because if the proportion of loops is too large, the exposed area of ​​the yarn at the looped points will be large, increasing the probability of C yarn being worn or even broken during finishing processes (such as napping) or wearing. The looped points on the fabric side (side A) are more likely to be snagged and broken, forming fuzz, and the fabric's anti-pilling properties will decrease.

[0019] In this invention, C-yarn is a yarn with a stretch recovery rate of 30% or higher. Its fiber raw material is not particularly limited and can be one or more of polyurethane fiber, polyamide fiber, or polyester fiber. Its fiber morphology is also not particularly limited. When polyurethane (spandex) fiber is selected, bare spandex yarn, core-spun spandex yarn, or covered spandex yarn can be used. The outer covering material is preferably polyester or polyamide.

[0020] The tightness coefficient A of the double-knitted fabric of the present invention is 1.0 or higher, preferably 1.0 to 2.5. The tightness coefficient characterizes the fabric's tightness and has a significant impact on achieving good pilling resistance and a fuller feel. When the tightness coefficient A is below 1.0, the fabric structure is loose, the gaps between loops are large, fibers easily snag and rub together, and the fuller feel is poor. When the tightness coefficient is above 2.5, although the fabric's pilling resistance improves, the yarns are arranged too tightly, reducing the stretchable space in the fabric, and both the fabric's elasticity and fuller feel tend to decrease.

[0021] Preferably, in this invention, yarn A is a core-spun yarn, and the outer covering yarn is made of one or more of polyamide fiber (NY), polyester fiber (PET), regenerated cellulose fiber, cotton fiber, etc., while the core yarn is polyurethane fiber. As the core yarn, polyurethane fiber has good shrinkage, which helps to further improve the overall tightness of the fabric and tends to improve the fabric's anti-pilling performance. Furthermore, the high elasticity of the core-spun yarn, combined with the good stretchability of the looped structure unit, enhances the overall elasticity and thickness of the fabric. As the outer covering yarn, polyamide fiber has excellent abrasion resistance, improving the fabric's anti-pilling performance, and is therefore preferred.

[0022] Preferably, in this invention, yarn A is textured yarn (DTY), and the fiber raw material is polyester fiber or polyamide fiber. Textured yarn has a crimped structure, which, combined with the elasticity of the loop structure units in knitting, gives the fabric good elasticity, and the fluffiness brought by the fiber crimp enhances the fabric's fullness. Textured yarn has better shrinkage performance than fully drawn yarn, which is beneficial for fabric tightening and tends to improve pilling resistance.

[0023] In this invention, other yarns besides A and C yarns, such as B, D, and E yarns, can also be added as needed. The fiber raw materials of these other yarns are not particularly limited; they can be one or more of polyamide fibers, polyester fibers, or polyurethane fibers. Their yarn form is also not particularly limited; they can be core-spun yarn, covered yarn, or textured yarn, etc.

[0024] In this invention, the fiber raw materials used in the yarn can be selected from the same type of raw material or from different types of raw materials. Considering the convenience of dyeing and subsequent processing, it is preferable to select the same type of raw material.

[0025] Preferably, in this invention, the fineness Dc of yarn C is less than or equal to the fineness Da of yarn A. This is because, as a connecting yarn, when the fineness of yarn C is less than or equal to that of yarn A, its non-loop structural units are more easily covered by yarn A, reducing the probability of friction or snagging, and the fabric's anti-pilling properties tend to increase. More preferably, the difference between the fineness Da of yarn A and the fineness Dc of yarn C is 50 to 100D. In this invention, the fineness Da of yarn A is preferably 100D to 150D, and the fineness Dc of yarn C is preferably 50D to 100D.

[0026] The manufacturing method of the double-sided knitted fabric of this invention is not particularly limited. During knitting, a double-sided knitting machine can be used, including ordinary double-sided circular knitting machines, jacquard double-sided circular knitting machines, double-sided warp knitting machines, and double-sided seamless knitting machines. An ordinary double-sided circular knitting machine is preferred, and a double-sided circular knitting machine with a gauge of 22 or higher is more preferred. When using a double-sided circular knitting machine with a gauge of 22G or higher, the length of 100 loops of yarn A can be controlled within 250mm, and the length of 100 loops of yarn C can be controlled within 280mm. Considering the upper limit of the machine gauge and yarn length, yarns with high elasticity and recovery rate are used to achieve fabric shrinkage and further improve tightness. Alternatively, when using a warp knitting machine with a gauge of E22 or higher, a smaller warp feed rate can be used for control.

[0027] In the fabric manufacturing process of this invention, the scouring, dyeing, setting, and napping processes all employ conventional processing conditions. The preferred napping method is napping. The agents used in each process of this invention can be commercially available products or self-prepared products, with a preferred dosage of 0.1–20 g / L.

[0028] To achieve a better sense of thickness, it is preferable to nap the B side of the fabric during post-processing. The napping process includes, but is not limited to, brushing, abrasion, or other processing methods that create fuzz on the napped side of the fabric.

[0029] The double-knitted fabric of this invention is suitable for making sweatshirts, jackets, casual wear, etc.

[0030] The present invention will be further described below with reference to embodiments and comparative examples. The testing methods for each parameter involved in the present invention are as follows:

[0031] (1) Percentage of C-yarn loop structure units (%)

[0032] First, prepare the sample of the fabric to be tested according to the “Sampling and Sample Preparation” specified in JIS L 0105:2020 standard.

[0033] Then, under a KEYENCE VHX-2000 digital microscope, when the fabric being tested has no napped side, the side with yarns appearing only on one side is designated as side A, and the other side as side B. If yarns appearing only on one side are present on both sides, side A and side B are not clearly distinguished; one side is marked as side A, and the other side as side B. When the fabric being tested has a napped side, the napped side is side B, and the non-naveled side is side A. The yarns in the fabric being tested are then disassembled sequentially along the reverse weave direction. Yarns appearing only on side A are designated as yarn A, yarns appearing only on side B are designated as yarn B, and yarns appearing on both sides are designated as yarn C.

[0034] Finally, one sample was photographed using a KEYENCE VHX-2000 digital microscope. The magnification was set to clearly show the weave points on the fabric, such as 30x or 50x. Specifically: the fabric was placed horizontally on the observation table with side A facing up. A complete weave cycle was outlined with a marker. The total number of loops within this cycle was recorded as X, and the number of C yarn loops was recorded as X1. The percentage of C yarn loop units on side A of the sample, Y1, was calculated as follows:

[0035]

[0036] (2) Tightness coefficient

[0037] First, prepare the sample of the fabric to be tested according to the "Sampling and Sample Preparation" specified in JIS L 0105:2020 standard.

[0038] Then, the loop length was tested using the "unraveling method" for knitted fabric loop length testing. A complete knitting cycle of yarn was disassembled sequentially along the reverse knitting direction of the sample, and the disassembled yarns were numbered 1, 2, 3… The length of 100 loops of yarn number 1 was measured with a ruler and recorded as the yarn length L1 (unit: mm). L1 / 100 was recorded as l1, where l1 is the length of one loop of yarn number 1. The yarn lengths of yarns number 2, 3… were measured using the same method, and their loop lengths l2, l3… were calculated. The weight of 100 loops of yarn number 1 was weighed using a Shimadzu AUW220D balance and recorded as g1 (unit: grams). Finally, the linear density T was calculated using the following formula.

[0039]

[0040] For example, the linear density T1 (unit: tex) of yarn No. 1 is calculated as follows:

[0041]

[0042] Calculate the linear densities T2, T3, etc. of yarns 2, 3, etc. using the same method. Calculate the tightness coefficient A1 of yarn 1 based on its loop length l1 and linear density T1, as follows:

[0043]

[0044] Calculate the tightness coefficients A2, A3, etc. of yarns 2, 3, etc. using the same method. Take the average of these tightness coefficients and round the result to two decimal places. Calculate the tightness coefficients of the remaining four complete weave cycles using the same method. Take the average of the tightness coefficients of all yarns in the five weave cycles and use it as the overall tightness coefficient of the fabric, denoted as A.

[0045] (3) Yarn stretch recovery rate (%)

[0046] Tests were conducted according to the twisting method in JIS L 1013:2021.

[0047] (4) Determination of fineness D

[0048] Based on the test results of linear density in the tightness coefficient mentioned above (2), the following conversion is performed.

[0049] D = T × 9

[0050] (5) Raw material identification

[0051] According to the FZ / T 01057 standard, the fiber raw materials of the yarn are identified.

[0052] (6) Anti-pilling properties (grade)

[0053] The test was conducted according to the modified Martindale method of GB / T 4802.2-2008, with the number of friction cycles set to 3000.

[0054] (7) Sensory evaluation of the thickness of the flesh

[0055] Twenty people were randomly invited to give a sensory evaluation of the fabric's thickness. If more than 15 people rated it as excellent, it was rated as outstanding; if 10-14 people rated it as excellent, it was rated as good; if 4-9 people rated it as excellent, it was rated as good; and if fewer than 4 people rated it as excellent, it was rated as poor.

[0056] (8) Fabric elongation (%)

[0057] Tested according to JIS L 1096:2010D.

[0058] (9) Fabric elongation recovery rate (%)

[0059] Tested according to JIS L 1096:2010E.

[0060] (10) Compression rate (%)

[0061] Tested according to JIS L 1096:2010.

[0062] (11) Compressive elasticity (%)

[0063] Tested according to JIS L 1096:2010.

[0064] (12) Thickness (mm)

[0065] Tested according to JIS L 1096:2010.

[0066] Example 1

[0067] On a 32G double-sided circular knitting machine, an attached... Figure 1 The fabric is woven using structure 1 as shown. In directions 1 and 4, 70D-48f / 40D core-spun yarn (outer sheath material is polyamide, core yarn is spandex) is used as yarn A. In directions 3 and 6, 70D-48f / 40D core-spun yarn (outer sheath material is polyamide, core yarn is spandex) is used as yarn B. In directions 2 and 5, 30D-36f / 20D core-spun yarn (outer sheath material is polyamide, core yarn is spandex) is used as yarn C to connect the two sides. The yarn lengths for directions 1 and 4 are 200mm, for directions 3 and 6 are 140mm, and for directions 2 and 5 are 180mm. This process yields the grey fabric. The fabric is then processed as follows: scouring (90℃×15m / min, scouring agent 2g / L) → intermediate setting (195℃×15m / min) → dyeing (black disperse dye 130℃×30min) → napping (160℃×20m / min, napping oil 20g / L) → finishing (180℃×20m / min) to obtain the double-sided knitted fabric of this invention. Specific parameters are shown in Table 1.

[0068] Example 2

[0069] By changing rows 1 and 4 to full loops, and rows 2 and 5 to knit loops with purl stitches and tufted loops with knit stitches, the rest is the same as in Example 1, thus obtaining the double-sided knitted fabric of the present invention. Specific parameters are shown in Table 1.

[0070] Example 3

[0071] The 28G double-sided circular knitting machine adopts the attached Figure 2 The structure shown in Figure 2 is woven using yarn A in the first row, yarn B in the second row, and 70D-48f / 40D core-spun yarn (outer sheath material is polyamide, core yarn is spandex) as yarn C in the third and fourth rows. The lengths of rows 1 and 2 are 210mm, and the lengths of rows 3 and 4 are 250mm. The rest is the same as in Example 1, thus obtaining the double-sided knitted fabric of the present invention. Specific parameters are shown in Table 1.

[0072] Example 4

[0073] The yarn lengths of lines 1 and 4 are 320 mm, lines 3 and 6 are 300 mm, and lines 2 and 5 are 220 mm. The rest is the same as in Example 2, thus obtaining the double-sided knitted fabric of this invention. Specific parameters are shown in Table 1.

[0074] Example 5

[0075] Adopting attachment Figure 3 The structure shown is 3, with yarn A used in the first row, yarn B used in the second row, and yarn C used in the third and fourth rows. The lengths of rows 1 and 2 are 210 mm, and the lengths of rows 3 and 4 are 150 mm. The rest is the same as in Example 1, thus obtaining the double-sided knitted fabric of the present invention. Specific parameters are shown in Table 1.

[0076] Example 6

[0077] Adopting attachment Figure 4 The structure shown in Figure 4 is woven using A yarn in the first row and C yarn in the second and third rows. The length of the first row is 150 mm, the length of the second row is 190 mm, and the length of the third row is 200 mm. The rest is the same as in Example 1, thus obtaining the double-sided knitted fabric of the present invention. The specific parameters are shown in Table 1.

[0078] Example 7

[0079] In the first and fourth rows, yarn A is used for weaving; in the third and sixth rows, yarn B is used; and in the second and fifth rows, 70D-48f / 40DpuNY core-spun yarn is used as yarn C to connect the two sides, with a yarn length of 255mm. The rest is the same as in Example 2, thus obtaining the double-sided knitted fabric of this invention. Specific parameters are shown in Table 1.

[0080] Example 8

[0081] In the first and fourth rows, yarn A is used for weaving; in the third and sixth rows, yarn B is used; and in the second and fifth rows, 90D-48f / 40DpuNY core-spun yarn is used as yarn C to connect the two sides, with a yarn length of 280mm. The rest is the same as in Example 2, thus obtaining the double-sided knitted fabric of this invention. Specific parameters are shown in Table 1.

[0082] Example 9

[0083] In the first and fourth rows, 100D-72f NY DTY yarn was used as the A yarn for weaving. The rest was the same as in Example 2, resulting in the double-sided knitted fabric of the present invention. Specific parameters are shown in Table 1.

[0084] Example 10

[0085] In the third and fourth sections, 50D spandex bare yarn was used as the C yarn for weaving, and the rest was the same as in Example 4, to obtain the double-sided knitted fabric of the present invention. Specific parameters are shown in Table 1.

[0086] Example 11

[0087] In the first and fourth rows, 90D-72f / 30D core-spun yarn (outer wrapping material is polyamide, core yarn is spandex) is used as yarn A for weaving; in the third and sixth rows, 100D-72f / 30D core-spun yarn (outer wrapping material is polyamide, core yarn is spandex) is used as yarn B for weaving. The rest is the same as in Example 2, thus obtaining the double-sided knitted fabric of the present invention. Specific parameters are shown in Table 1.

[0088] Garments made from the double-knitted fabrics of Examples 1 to 11.

[0089] Comparative Example 1

[0090] Adopting attachment Figure 5The structure shown in Example 5 is woven using A yarn with a length of 180mm in sections 1, 4, 7, 10, and 13. The remaining sections use C yarn, with sections 2, 5, 8, 11, and 14 having a yarn length of 190mm, and sections 3, 6, 9, 12, and 15 having a yarn length of 150mm. The rest is the same as in Example 5, resulting in a double-sided knitted fabric. Specific parameters are shown in Table 1.

[0091] Comparative Example 2

[0092] Routes 1 and 4 are 380 mm long, routes 3 and 6 are 280 mm long, and routes 2 and 5 are 350 mm long. The rest is the same as in Example 2, resulting in a double-sided knitted fabric. Specific parameters are shown in Table 1.

[0093] Comparative Example 3

[0094] In sections 2 and 5, 50D-36f NY DTY yarn is used as the C yarn to connect the two sides. The rest is the same as in Example 2, resulting in a double-sided knitted fabric. Specific parameters are shown in Table 1.

[0095]

[0096] According to Table 1,

[0097] (1) As can be seen from Comparative Example 1 and Example 5, under the same conditions, compared with the double-knitted fabric in which the C yarn loops account for 55% of the A yarn surface, the double-knitted fabric in which the C yarn loops account for 50% of the A yarn surface has poorer pilling resistance and a less substantial feel, while the elasticity of the two is comparable. (2) As can be seen from Comparative Example 2 and Example 3, under the same conditions, compared with the double-knitted fabric in which the tightness coefficient is 1.0, the double-knitted fabric in which the tightness coefficient is 0.9 has poorer pilling resistance, elasticity, and a less substantial feel.

[0098] (3) As can be seen from Comparative Example 3 and Example 2, under the same conditions, the double-sided knitted fabric using C yarn with a stretch recovery rate of 27% is inferior to the double-sided knitted fabric using C yarn with a stretch recovery rate of 42% in terms of pilling resistance, elasticity and thickness.

[0099] (4) As can be seen from Examples 7 and 2, under the same conditions, compared with double-sided knitted fabrics with C yarn fineness greater than A yarn fineness, the former has poorer anti-pilling properties than the latter, while the elasticity and thickness of the two are comparable.

Claims

1. A double-knitted fabric comprising A yarn and C yarn, characterized in that: The A yarn appears only on one side of the fabric and forms a looped structural unit; the C yarn is a connecting yarn that forms looped and / or tucked structural units on both sides of the fabric, and in a complete weave on one side of the fabric, the proportion of the number of looped structural units does not exceed 50%; the C yarn is a yarn with a stretch recovery rate of 30% or more; the tightness coefficient A of the fabric is 1.0 or more.

2. The double-sided knitted fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: The fineness Dc of yarn C is less than or equal to the fineness Da of yarn A.

3. The double-sided knitted fabric according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that: The A yarn is a core-spun yarn, with the outer yarn made of polyamide fiber or polyester fiber and the core yarn made of polyurethane fiber.

4. The double-knitted fabric according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that: The A yarn is a stretch textured yarn, and its fiber raw material is polyester fiber or polyamide fiber.

5. A garment made from the double-knitted fabric described in any one of claims 1 to 4.

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