Cosmetic composition based on chitosan and modified clay

Abstract

Cosmetic Composition Based on Chitosan and Modified Clay. The present invention relates to a composition, particularly for makeup and / or skin and / or lip and / or hair care, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium: a) from 0.01 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of native chitosan having a molecular weight strictly greater than 3000 Daltons, and b) at least one modified clay. It also relates to a method for applying makeup and / or skin and / or lip and / or hair care, in which the composition according to the invention is applied to the skin and / or lips and / or hair. Figure for the abstract: None

Description

Title of the invention: Cosmetic composition based on chitosan and modified clay

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition, in particular for makeup and / or care of the skin and / or lips and / or superficial body growths, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium:

[0002] a) from 0.01 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of native chitosan having a molecular weight strictly greater than 3000 Daltons, and

[0003] b) at least one modified clay.

[0004] The present invention also relates to a method for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or the lips and / or the superficial body growths, in which the composition according to the invention is applied to the skin and / or the lips and / or the superficial body growths.

[0005] There are many cosmetic compositions for which properties of holding the film deposited, after application to keratin materials, are desired. Examples include lipsticks, foundations, mascaras or nail polishes. In order to obtain such a result, it is possible to combine particular raw materials, in particular film-forming agents. Furthermore, it is often sought to obtain covering compositions.

[0006] There is therefore a need for systems making it possible to obtain easily formulatable, preferably fluid, compositions based on chitosan, the deposit of which has good optical properties, for example, coverage, mattness and having good hold and whose resistance, for example to dry mechanical wear and / or in the presence of a chemical aggressor such as water, is improved. There is also a need for such compositions, which also have good sensoriality on application, for example good glide and / or good softness.

[0007] In particular, there is a need for systems making it possible to obtain chitosan-based compositions in the form of emulsions, or even an aqueous gel, and having improved resistance, in particular to dry or water wear.

[0008] Furthermore, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, i.e. those whose design and development take environmental issues into account, is becoming a major concern to help meet global challenges.

[0009] It is therefore essential to propose more sustainable compositions and / or preparation processes and / or ingredients, thus making it possible to respond to these environmental challenges.

[0010] In this context, it is important to develop new cos compositions metics with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or with a good index of naturalness and / or of natural origin and more particularly of plant origin while reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin.

[0011] These problems can be solved by the use of cosmetic compositions described below, these compositions having good formulability, good cosmetic properties, in particular good resistance of optical properties such as coverage or mattness, under dry rubbing, or in the presence of a chemical aggressor such as water as well as good sensoriality, in particular good glide and good softness. Compositions having good coverage are also sought. The present invention aims in particular to provide emulsions comprising chitosan and having good resistance when dry, and / or in the presence of a chemical aggressor such as water.

[0012] After application, these compositions leave a film-forming deposit having good optical properties, such as for example coverage or mattness, and which has good wear resistance. The films formed are adhesive and cohesive, and have improved resistance when dry, and / or in the presence of a chemical aggressor such as water and / or oil.

[0013] These compositions also include sustainable ingredients, thus making it possible to respond to environmental issues.

[0014] The present invention therefore relates to a composition, in particular for makeup and / or care of the skin and / or lips and / or superficial body growths, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium:

[0015] a) from 0.01 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of native chitosan having a molecular weight strictly greater than 3000 Daltons, and

[0016] b) at least one modified clay.

[0017] Indeed, the inventors have surprisingly discovered that the addition of a modified clay to a composition, preferably in an emulsion or possibly an aqueous gel, comprising chitosan makes it possible to improve the dry, water and / or oil resistance of said composition.

[0018] By “physiologically acceptable” is meant a medium compatible with keratin materials.

[0019] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition, 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, of silicone.

[0020] By silicone is meant any silicone compound.

[0021] Unexpectedly, the inventors have demonstrated that the reduction, or even the elimination, of silicone makes it possible to improve the coverage of the compositions.

[0022] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is substantially free of silicone other than a film-forming or tackifying silicone polymer, preferably other than a silicone resin or a silicone acrylate copolymer, preferably other than an MQ resin or an acrylates / poly-trimethylsiloxy-methacrylate copolymer.

[0023] By "substantially free of silicone other than a film-forming or tackifying silicone polymer, preferably a silicone resin or a silicone acrylate copolymer, preferably other than an MQ resin or an acrylates / polytrimethylsiloxy-methacrylate copolymer", it is meant that the composition comprises less than 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.3% by weight, preferentially less than 0.1% by weight of silicone other than a film-forming or tackifying silicone polymer, preferably a silicone resin or a silicone acrylate copolymer, preferably other than an MQ resin or an acrylates / polytrimethylsiloxy-methacrylate copolymer.Preferably, the composition is completely free of silicone other than a film-forming or tackifying silicone polymer, preferably a silicone resin or a silicone acrylate copolymer, preferably other than an MQ resin or an acrylates / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer. By silicone other than a film-forming or tackifying silicone polymer, preferably a silicone resin or a silicone acrylate copolymer, preferably other than an MQ resin or an acrylates / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer, is meant any silicone compound which is not a film-forming or tackifying silicone polymer, preferably which is not a silicone resin or a silicone acrylate copolymer, preferably which is not an MQ resin or an acrylates / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer.

[0024] The term "resin" means a compound whose structure is three-dimensional. Thus, for the purposes of the present invention, a polydimethylsiloxane is not a silicone resin.

[0025] The nomenclature of silicone resins is known as "MDTQ", the resin being described according to the different siloxane monomeric units that it comprises, each of the letters "MDTQ" characterizing a type of unit.

[0026] The letter "M" represents the Monofunctional unit of formula RlR2R3SiOi / 2, the silicon atom being linked to a single oxygen atom in the polymer comprising this unit.

[0027] The letter "D" means a Difunctional unit R1 R2SiO2 / 2 in which the silicon atom is linked to two oxygen atoms.

[0028] The letter “T” represents a Trifunctional unit of formula RlSiO3 / 2.

[0029] In the M, D, T units defined above, Ri, namely RI, R2 and R3, identical or different, represent a hydrocarbon radical (in particular alkyl) having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or even a hydroxyl group.

[0030] Finally, the letter "Q" signifies a Tetrafunctional SiO4 / 2 unit in which the silicon atom is linked to four oxygen atoms themselves linked to the rest of the polymer.

[0031] Such resins are described for example in "Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, vol. 15, John and Wiley and Sons, New York, (1989), pp. 265-270, and US 2,676,182, US 3,627,851, US 3,772,247, US 5,248,739 or US 5,082,706, US 5,319,040, US 5,302,685 and US 4,935,484.

[0032] Silicone resins of MQ type are, for example, alkylsiloxysilicates of formula [(Rl)3SiOi / 2]x(SiO4 / 2)y (MQ units) in which x and y are integers ranging from 50 to 80, and such that the RI group represents a radical as defined above, and preferably is an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyl group, preferably a methyl group. In particular, trimethylsiloxysilicate or phenylalkylsiloxysilicate resins such as phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate are distinguished.

[0033] Silicone polymers include siloxanes having an organo-functional group, such as polyalkylsiloxanes, where at least one alkyl radical is other than methyl, for example organopolysiloxanes having the INCI name Stearyl Dimethicone, Cetyl Dimethicone or C26-28 Alkyl Dimethicone, or, for example, polyarylsiloxanes and polyarylalkylsiloxanes, for example organopolysiloxanes having the INCI name Phenyl Trimethicone, Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone or Dimethylphenyl Dimethicone, or, for example, organopolysiloxanes having an organo-functional radical such as an aminopropyl, aminopropyl-aminoethyl, aminopropyl-aminoisobutyl radical, for example organopolysiloxanes having the INCI name Amodi-methicone, or, for example, organopolysiloxanes having a polyethylene glycol or polyalkylene glycol radical, for example organopolysiloxanes having the INCI name PEG-12 Dimethicone, PEG / PPG-25,25-Dimethicone or Cetyl PEG / PPG-15 / 15 Butyl ether Dimethicone.

[0034] Silicone acrylate copolymers are polymers comprising a siloxane group and a hydrocarbon group. For example, suitable polymers include polymers comprising a hydrocarbon backbone such as, for example, a backbone selected from vinyl polymers, methacrylic polymers and / or acrylic polymers and at least one chain selected from pendant siloxane groups and polymers comprising a backbone of siloxane groups and at least one pendant hydrocarbon chain such as, for example, a pendant vinyl, methacrylic and / or acrylic group.

[0035] The silicone acrylate copolymer may be selected from polymers derived from non-polar silicone copolymers comprising repeating units of at least at least one polar (meth)acrylate unit and vinyl graft copolymers with at least one non-polar silicone chain. Non-limiting examples of such copolymers are acrylates / dimethicone copolymers such as those commercially available from Shin-Etsu, e.g., products sold under the trademarks KP-545 (cyclopentasiloxane (and) acrylates / dimethicone copolymer), KP-543 (butyl acetate (and) acrylates / dimethicone copolymer), KP-549 (methyl trimethicone (and) acrylates / dimethicone copolymer), KP-550 (INCI name: isododecane (and) acrylate / dimethicone copolymer), KP-561 (acrylates / stearyl acrylate / dimethicone acrylates copolymer), KP-562 (acrylates / behenyl acrylate / dimethicone acrylates copolymer), and mixtures thereof.Additional examples include acrylate / dimethicone copolymers sold by Dow Corning under the trademarks FA 4001 CM SILICONE ACRYLATE (cyclopentasiloxane (and) acrylates / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer), FA 4002 ID SILICONE ACRYLATE (isododecane (and) acrylates / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate Copolymer), and FA 4004 ID SILICONE ACRYLATE (isododecane (and) acrylates / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate Copolymer), and mixtures thereof.

[0036] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention is substantially free of silicone. By "substantially free of silicone" is meant that the composition comprises less than 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.3% by weight, preferentially less than 0.1% by weight of silicone. Preferably, the composition is completely free of silicone. According to this embodiment, silicone is meant to mean any silicone compound, including film-forming or tackifying silicone polymers.

[0037] The composition is preferably in the form of an emulsion, preferably an oil-in-water emulsion (direct emulsion) or a water-in-oil emulsion (inverse emulsion), advantageously a water-in-oil emulsion (inverse).

[0038] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, having in particular an oily phase / aqueous phase weight ratio of between 5:95 and 80:20, preferably between 8:92 and 65:35, preferably between 10:90 and 60:40, preferably between 12:88 and 50:50, preferably between 15:85 and 40:60.

[0039] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, having in particular an oily phase / aqueous phase weight ratio between 90:10 and 20:80, preferably between 80:20 and 30:70, preferably between 70:30 and 40:60, preferably between 65:35 and 45:55.

[0040] The composition according to the invention can also be presented in the form of a aqueous dispersion or aqueous gel.

[0041] It also relates to a cosmetic process for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or the lips and / or the appendages, in which the composition according to the invention is applied to the skin and / or the lips and / or the appendages. Chitosan

[0042] The composition according to the invention comprises from 0.01 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of at least one native chitosan having a molecular weight strictly greater than 3000 Daltons (3 kDa).

[0043] The quantity of native chitosan is also strictly less than 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0044] Preferably, the native chitosan has a molecular weight greater than or equal to 10 kDa, preferably greater than or equal to 15 kDa, preferably greater than or equal to 20 kDa. Preferably, the native chitosan has a molecular weight of between 10 kDa and 2 MDa, preferably between 15 kDa and 1.5 MDa, preferably between 20 kDa and 300 kDa, preferably between 20 kDa and 200 kDa.

[0045] One Dalton is equivalent to 1 g / mol.

[0046] Chitosan (or chitosan) is very rare in nature. It is only reported in the exoskeletons of certain insects such as termite queens and in the cell walls of a particular class of fungi, the zygomycetes.

[0047] Chitosan is obtained by deacetylation of chitin. Chitin is a polysaccharide composed of several N-acetyl-D-glucosamine units linked together by a [3 (1,4)] type bond.

[0048] The ideal chemical structure of chitosan is a chain of monomers [3-D-glucosamine linked by a glycosidic bond (1—>4).

[0049] By "chitosan" according to the invention is meant any copolymer formed from constituent units N-acetyl-D-glucosamine and D-glucosamine, the degree of acetylation of which is less than 90%. Chitosan is made up of glucosamine sugar units (deacetylated units) and N-acetyl-D-glucosamine units (acetylated units) linked together by bonds of type [3 (1,4) and constitutes a polymer of the type Poly(N-acetyl-D-glucosamine) -poly(D-glucosamine).

[0050] Preferably, the degree of acetylation of the chitosan is less than or equal to 80%, preferably less than or equal to 70%, preferably less than or equal to 60%, preferably less than or equal to 50%, preferably less than or equal to 35%, preferably less than or equal to 25%, preferably less than or equal to 15%.

[0051] The degree of acetylation is the percentage of acetylated units relative to the number of total units, it can be determined by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR) or by titration with a strong base.

[0052] The chitosan of the invention is preferably a polysaccharide prepared from a fungal origin. It is notably extracted and purified from safe and abundant food or biotechnological fungal sources such as Agaricus bisporus or As-pergillus niger.

[0053] The chitosan of the invention is preferably derived from the mycelium of a fungus of the Ascomycete type, and in particular Aspergillus niger and / or a Basi-diomycete fungus, and in particular Lentinula edodes (shiitake) and / or Agaricus bisporus. Preferably the fungus is Aspergillus niger.

[0054] The chitosan may be of GMO origin, but preferably is of non-GMO origin.

[0055] The chitosan according to the invention is native, that is to say that it is not modified. In particular, it does not contain any chemical modification.

[0056] A method for preparing chitosan is that described in application WO03068824.

[0057] Preferably, the chitosan used in the invention is in powder form. It is notably marketed by Kitozyme under the name Kiosmetine or Kionutrime.

[0058] The chitosan is preferably present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 14% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 14% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 12% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 7% by weight, preferably from 0.25% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 3% by weight, or even more preferably from 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Modified clay

[0059] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one modified clay.

[0060] Clays are silicates containing a cation which can be chosen from calcium, magnesium, aluminum, sodium, potassium, lithium cations, and mixtures thereof.

[0061] Examples of clays that may be mentioned include those from the smectite, vermiculite, stevensite and chlorite families. These clays may be of natural or synthetic origin. Preferably, clays that are cosmetically compatible and acceptable with keratin materials are used.

[0062] Clays are silicates generally containing a cation chosen from alkali metal cations of lithium, sodium or potassium; alkaline earth metal cations such as calcium, magnesium and metals such as aluminum and mixtures thereof.

[0063] Among the clays according to the invention, we can cite:

[0064] - Clays I) Amorphous from the Allophane group [12172-71-3] consisting notably silica, alumina and are generally associated with halloysite.

[0065] - Clays II) Crystalline A) with 2 layers composed of a layer of silica trahedral and an octahedral alumina layer:

[0066] 1) with the same dimension of the kaolin group [1332-58-7], we can cite the groups following :

[0067] kaolinite [1318-74-7], of formula Si2O5A12(OH)4;

[0068] dickite [1318-45-2],

[0069] nacrite [12279-65-1], and

[0070] halloysite [12244-16-5] and its minerals, dehydrated, with a chemical formula identical to kaolinite;

[0071] the mineral kaolin comes from hydrated aluminum silicates consisting in particular of aluminum and silicon such as 2H2O • A12O3 • 2 SiO2; Kaolinite is formed from a single layer of tetrahedral silica associated with a single layer of octahedral alumina. It generally has the formula A12Si2O5(OH)4.

[0072] 2) elongates such as halloysite [12244-16-5] with the same formula as kaolinite

[0073] - Clays III) with 3 layers composed of two tetrahedral silica layers and a central octahedron or tri-octahedron layer:

[0074] 1) with expanded network which includes Smectites [12199-37-0] originating in particular from the bentonite:

[0075] a) of the same size: i) montmorillonite [1318-93-0] including alkali or alkaline earth metals such as sodium and / or calcium, particularly those of formula Si4O10A15 / 3Mgl / 3Nal / 3(OH)2, known as Sommières earth; ii) sauconite [12424-32-7] which corresponds to smectite in which zinc has replaced some aluminum atoms, and iii) vermiculite [1318-00-9];

[0076] b) Elongate such as nontronite [12174-06-0], saponite [1319-41-1], hectorite [12173-47-6];

[0077] 2) with non-expanded network such as the group of Illites [12173-60-3] which comprise in particular water and potassium aluminum silicates of formula (OH)4K2(Si6A12)A14O20 or KA12(AlSi3O10)(OH)2;

[0078] - Clays IV) with a mixture of regular layers belonging to the group of Chlorites

[0079] - Type V clays) with a structural chain of silica in tetrahedral form linked to octahedral groups of oxygen atoms and hydroxyl groups also containing aluminum and magnesium such as palygorskite [12174-11-7] or attapulgite [1337-76-4] which generally have a structure of the type (OH2)4(OH)2Mg5Si8O20 -4H2O. We can also mention sepiolite [15501-74-3] which is part of the type V clays).

[0080] - Synthetically obtained type VI clays, Laponite of formula:

[0081] Na+0.7[(Si8Mg5.5Li0.3)020(OH)4]-0.7) which is a family of synthetic smectite, or synthetic or non-synthetic hydrotalcite, of type Mg6A12(CO3)(OH)16*4(H2O),

[0082] As examples of clays which can be used according to the present invention, mention may be made of: family of smectites such as montmorillonite, hectorite, bentonite, beidellite, saponite, stevensite; the family of vermiculites; the family of chlorites; attapulgite; sepiolite; hydroxyapatite; laponite; and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the clay is chosen from hectorites and bentonites, preferentially from hectorites.

[0083] As clay that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of synthetic hectorites (also called laponites) such as the products sold by the company Laporte under the name Laponite XLG, Laponite RD, Laponite RDS (these products are sodium and magnesium silicates and in particular sodium, lithium and magnesium silicates); bentonites such as the product sold under the name Bentone HC by the company RHEOX; magnesium and aluminum silicates, in particular hydrated ones, such as the product sold by the company Vanderbilt Company under the name Veegum ultra, or calcium silicates and in particular that in synthetic form sold by the company under the name Micro-cel C.

[0084] Modified clays are clays that have undergone chemical modifications and are not found naturally in this form. These modifications can be obtained by physical (temperature), chemical (addition of a neutralizing counterion such as mineral or organic acids or bases, by ion exchange, by addition of a polymerizable or non-polymerizable anionic or cationic surfactant or a natural or synthetic polymer.

[0085] Preferably, the modified clay is a hydrophobic clay or a hydrophilic clay, preferably the modified clay is chosen from hydrophobic clays.

[0086] The clays are modified with a chemical compound chosen from quaternary amines, in particular di(Cl-C4)alkyl(C10-C30)alkylbenzylammonium salts, tertiary amines, amine acetates, imidazolines, amine soaps, fatty sulfates, alkyl aryl sulfonates, amine oxides, and mixtures thereof; preferably modified by quaternary amines, in particular modified by di(Cl-C4)alkyl(C10-C30)alkylbenzylammonium salts, such as stearalkonium or distearalkonium halides. They are made hydrophobic in particular by treatment with an alkyl ammonium salt such as a C10-C22 dialkyldimethylammonium halide, for example di-stearyl di-methyl ammonium chloride, or by treatment with a C10-C22 alkylbenzylammonium salt, in particular a C10-C22 alkyldimethylbenzylammonium halide, for example benzyldimethyl ammonium stearate chloride.

[0087] Preferably, modified bentonites or modified hectorites are used as hydrophobic clays, in particular modified hectorites, preferably hectorites modified with a halide, such as a chloride, of dialkyldimethylammonium in C10 to C22, such as hectorite modified with a halide, of preferably chloride, di-stearyl di-methyl ammonium such as, for example, that marketed under the name Bentone 38V®, Bentone 38V® CG, by the company Elementis or the bentone gel in isododecane marketed under the name Bentone Gel ISD V® (Isododecane 87% / Disteardimonium Hectorite 10% / Propylene carbonate 3%) by the company Elementis.

[0088] Preferably, the modified clay is present in a content of between 0.05% and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.1% and 20% by weight, preferentially between 0.2% and 12% by weight, advantageously between 0.5% and 10% by weight.

[0089] According to one embodiment, the weight ratio between the modified clay and the chitosan is greater than or equal to 0.001, preferably greater than or equal to 0.003, preferably greater than 0.005, preferably greater than 0.01, and even more preferably greater than 0.1. According to one embodiment, the weight ratio between the modified clay and the chitosan is preferably between 0.001 and 3000, preferably between 0.003 and 1000, preferably between 0.01 and 100, preferably between 0.1 and 20 and even more preferably between 0.2 and 10. Pigmentary coloring matters

[0090] The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one pigmentary coloring matter. This pigmentary coloring matter is preferably chosen from powdery coloring matters such as mineral pigments, pearlescent agents and organic pigments.

[0091] The term “pigments” means white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous medium, intended to color the composition and / or the resulting deposit.

[0092] Preferably, the pigmentary coloring matter is chosen from mineral pigments, preferably from titanium dioxide, iron oxides, zirconium or cerium oxides, zinc or chromium oxides and mixtures thereof, preferably the pigmentary coloring matter is chosen from titanium dioxide, iron oxides and mixtures thereof.

[0093] Preferably, the pigmentary coloring matter is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.5% to 70% by weight, preferably from 1% to 60% by weight, preferably from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 2% to 40% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, preferably from 4% to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% to 25% by weight, preferably from 6% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 8 to 18% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Mineral pigments

[0094] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments used according to the invention are chosen from mineral pigments.

[0095] By "mineral pigment" is meant any pigment that meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the inorganic pigment chapter. Among the mineral pigments useful in the present invention, mention may be made of zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, metal powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder. The following mineral pigments may also be used: Ta2O5, Ti3O5, Ti2O3, TiO, ZrO2 in mixture with TiO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2, ZnS.

[0096] The size of the pigment useful in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 5 nm, preferably greater than 10 nm, preferably greater than 20 nm, preferably greater than 100 nm and may range up to 10 qm, preferably from 5 nm to 10 pm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 qm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 pm. According to a particular form of the invention, the pigments have a size characterized by a D

[50] greater than 100 nm and may range up to 10 pm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 pm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 pm. The sizes are measured by static light scattering using a commercial granulometer such as the MasterSizer 3000® from Malvem, which allows the particle size distribution of all particles to be measured over a wide range from 0.01 pm to 1000 pm. The data are processed based on the classical Mie scattering theory.This theory is most suitable for size distributions ranging from submicron to multi-micron, it allows to determine an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is notably described in the work of Van de Hulst, HC, "Light Scattering by Small Particles", Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957. D

[50] represents the maximum size that 50% by volume of the particles presents.

[0097] In the context of the present invention, the mineral pigments are more particularly iron oxide and / or titanium dioxide. By way of example, mention may be made more particularly of titanium dioxides and iron oxides, coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate, for example marketed under the reference NAI® by the company MIYOSHI KASEI.

[0098] As mineral pigments which can be used in the invention, mention may also be made of nacres.

[0099] By "mother-of-pearl" is meant colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular, produced by certain molluscs in their shell or synthesized and which present a color effect by optical interference.

[0100] The nacres can be chosen from pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica coated with iron oxide, titanium mica coated with iron oxychloride, or titanium mica coated with iron oxide. bismuth, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic colorant, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic colorants. Examples of pearlescent pigments include natural mica coated with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigment or bismuth oxychloride. Among the mother-of-pearls available on the market, we can cite the TIMICA®, FLAMENCO® and DUOCHROME® mother-of-pearls (mica-based) marketed by the company ENGELHARD, the TIMIRON® mother-of-pearls marketed by the company MERCK, the PRESTIGE® mica-based mother-of-pearls marketed by the company ECKART and the SUNSHINE® synthetic mica-based mother-of-pearls marketed by the company SUN CHEMICAL.

[0101] The mother-of-pearls may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery color or reflection. As an illustration of the mother-of-pearls that can be used in the context of the present invention, mention may be made, in particular, of gold-colored mother-of-pearls, in particular, marketed by the company ENGELHARD, under the name Brillant gold 212G® (Timica), Gold 222C® (Cloisonne), Sparkle Gold® (Timica), Gold 4504® (Chromalite) and Monarch Gold 233X® (Cloisonne); bronze mother-of-pearls, in particular, marketed by the company MERCK under the name Bronze fine® (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze® (17353) (Colorona) and by the company ENGELHARD under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); orange mother-of-pearls, in particular, marketed by the company ENGELHARD under the name Orange 363C® (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101® (Cosmica) and by the company MERCK under the name Passion Orange® (Colorona) and Matte Orange (17449) ® (Microna);brown mother-of-pearl, in particular, marketed by the company ENGELHARD under the name Nu-Antique Copper 340XB® (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509® (Chromalite); copper-reflecting mother-of-pearl, in particular, marketed by the company ENGELHARD under the name Copper 340A® (Timica); red-reflecting mother-of-pearl, in particular, marketed by the company MERCK under the name Sienna Fine® (17386) (Colorona); yellow-reflecting mother-of-pearl, in particular, marketed by the company ENGELHARD under the name Yellow (4502) ® (Chromalite); red-reflecting mother-of-pearl with a gold sheen, in particular, marketed by the company ENGELHARD under the name Sunstone G012® (Gemtone); pink mother-of-pearl, in particular, marketed by the company ENGELHARD under the name Tan Opale G005® (Gemtone);black mother-of-pearl with a gold sheen, in particular, marketed by the company ENGELHARD under the name Nu Antique Bronze 240 AB® (Timica), blue mother-of-pearl, in particular, marketed by the company MERCK under the name Matte Blue® (17433) (Microna), white mother-of-pearl with a sheen; silver, in particular, marketed by the company MERCK under the name Xirona Silver® and the orange-pinkish-green-gold mother-of-pearl, in particular, marketed by the company MERCK under the name Indian Summer® (Xirona) and their mixtures.

[0102] Among the pigments which can be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of those with an optical effect different from a simple conventional tint effect, that is to say unified and stabilized as produced by conventional coloring materials, such as, for example, monochromatic pigments. For the purposes of the invention, "stabilized" means devoid of any effect of color variability with the viewing angle or in response to a change in temperature. For example, this material may be chosen from particles with a metallic sheen, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffracting pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brightening agents, as well as fibers, in particular interference fibers. Of course, these different materials may be combined so as to provide the simultaneous manifestation of two effects, or even a new effect in accordance with the invention.

[0103] The particles with a metallic sheen that can be used in the invention are in particular chosen from:

[0104] - particles of at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative,

[0105] - particles comprising an organic or mineral substrate, single-material or multi- materials, covered at least partially by at least one layer with a metallic sheen comprising at least one metal and / or at least one metallic derivative, and

[0106] - mixtures of said particles.

[0107] Among the metals that may be present in said particles, mention may be made, for example, of Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te, Se and their mixtures or alloys. Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo, Cr, and their mixtures or alloys (for example, bronzes and brasses) are preferred metals.

[0108] By metal derivatives, we mean compounds derived from metals, in particular, oxides, fluorides, chlorides and sulfides.

[0109] As an illustration of these particles, mention may be made of aluminum particles, such as those marketed under the names STARBRITE 1200 EAC® by the company SIBERLINE and METALURE® by the company ECKART.

[0110] Mention may also be made of metallic copper powders or mixtures of alloys, such as the references 2844 marketed by the company RADIUM BRONZE, metallic pigments, such as aluminum or bronze, such as those marketed under the names ROTOSAFE 700® from the company ECKART, particles of aluminum coated with silica marketed under the name VI-SIONAIRE BRIGHT SILVER® from the company ECKART and particles of metallic alloy, such as bronze powders (copper and zinc alloy) coated with silica marketed under the name Visionaire Bright Natural Gold® from the Eckart company.

[0111] It may also be particles comprising a glass substrate such as those marketed by the company NIPPON SHEET GLASS under the name ML CROGLASS METASHINE®.

[0112] The goniochromatic coloring agent may be selected, for example, from interference multilayer structures and liquid crystal coloring agents.

[0113] Examples of symmetrical interference multilayer structures that can be used in compositions produced in accordance with the invention are, for example, the following structures: Al / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / Al, pigments having this structure being marketed by the company DUPONT DE NEMOURS; Cr / MgF2 / Al / MgF2 / Cr, pigments having this structure being marketed under the name CHROMAFLAIR® by the company FLEX; MoS2 / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / MoS2; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / Fe2O3, and Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3, pigments having these structures being marketed under the name SICOPEARL® by the company BASF; MoS2 / SiO2 / mica-oxide / SiO2 / MoS 2 ; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / mica-oxide / SiO2 / Fe2O3; TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 and TiO2 / Al2O3 / TiO2; SnO / TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 / SnO; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3; SnO / mica / TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 / mica / SnO, pigments having these structures being marketed under the name XIRONA® by the company MERCK (Darmstadt).For example, these pigments may be the silica / titanium oxide / tin oxide structure pigments marketed under the name XIRONA MAGIC® by MERCK, the silica / brown iron oxide structure pigments marketed under the name XIRONA INDIAN SUMMER® by MERCK and the silica / titanium oxide / mica / tin oxide structure pigments marketed under the name XIRONA CARRIBEAN BLUE® by MERCK. Mention may also be made of the INFINITE COLORS pigments from SHISEIDO. Depending on the thickness and nature of the different layers, different effects are obtained. Thus, with the Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / Fe2O3 structure, the color goes from gold-green to gray-red for SiO2 layers of 320 to 350 nm; from red to gold for SiO2 layers of 380 to 400 nm; from violet to green for SiO2 layers from 410 to 420 nm; from copper to red for SiO2 layers from 430 to 440 nm.

[0114] Examples of pigments with a polymeric multilayer structure include those marketed by the company 3M under the name COLOR GLITTER®.

[0115] As liquid crystal goniochromatic particles, it is possible to use, for example, those sold by the company CHENIX, as well as those marketed under the name HELICONE® HC by the company WACKER. Hydrophobic coated pigments

[0116] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one pigment coated with at least one lipophilic or hy- drophobe and in particular as detailed below.

[0117] This type of pigment is particularly advantageous insofar as it can be considered in significant quantity together with a significant quantity of water. What is more, insofar as they are treated with a hydrophobic compound, they show a preponderant affinity for the oily gelled phase which can then transport them.

[0118] Of course, the compositions according to the invention can at the same time contain uncoated pigments.

[0119] The coating may also comprise at least one additional non-lipophilic compound.

[0120] For the purposes of the invention, the coating of a pigment according to the invention generally designates the total or partial surface treatment of the pigment by a surface agent, absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto said pigment.

[0121] The surface-treated pigments may be prepared according to surface treatment techniques of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical or mechanical nature well known to those skilled in the art. Commercial products may also be used.

[0122] The surfactant can be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the pigments by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction and creation of a covalent bond.

[0123] According to one variant, the surface treatment consists of a coating of the pigments.

[0124] The coating may represent from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and in particular from 0.5% to 5% by weight. % by weight of the total weight of the coated pigment.

[0125] The coating can be carried out for example by adsorption of a liquid surface agent on the surface of the solid particles by simple mixing with stirring of the particles and said surface agent, optionally hot, prior to the incorporation of the particles into the other ingredients of the makeup or care composition.

[0126] The coating can be carried out for example by chemical reaction of a surfactant with the surface of the solid pigment particles and creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the particles. This method is notably described in US patent 4,578,266.

[0127] The chemical surface treatment may consist of diluting the surfactant in a volatile solvent, dispersing the pigments in this mixture, and then slowly evaporating the volatile solvent, so that the surfactant is deposited on the surface of the pigments. Lipophilic or hydrophobic treatment agent

[0128] When the pigment comprises a lipophilic or hydrophobic coating, the latter is preferably present in the fatty phase of the composition according to the invention.

[0129] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments can be coated according to the invention with at least one compound chosen from surface agents silicones; fluorinated surfactants; fluoro-silicone surfactants; metallic soaps; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl triisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof. Silicone surfactant

[0130] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments can be surface-treated totally or partially with a silicone compound.

[0131] The silicone surfactants may be chosen from organopolysiloxanes, silane derivatives, silicone-acrylate copolymers, silicone resins, and mixtures thereof.

[0132] By organopolysiloxane compound is meant a compound having a structure comprising alternating silicone atoms and oxygen atoms and comprising organic radicals linked to the silicon atoms. Non-elastomeric organopolysiloxane

[0133] Non-elastomeric organopolysiloxanes that may be mentioned include polydimethylsiloxanes, polymethylhydrogensiloxanes and polyalkoxydimethylsiloxanes.

[0134] The alkoxy group may be represented by the radical RO- such that R represents methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl, 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl radicals, aryl radicals such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl, or substituted aryl radicals such as phenylethyl.

[0135] One method for surface-treating pigments with polymethylhydrogenosiloxane involves dispersing the pigments in an organic solvent and then adding the silicone compound. By heating the mixture, covalent bonds are created between the silicone compound and the surface of the pigment.

[0136] According to a preferred embodiment, the silicone surfactant may be a non-elastomeric organopolysiloxane, in particular chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes. Alkylsilanes and alkoxysilanes

[0137] Alkoxy-functional silanes are notably described by Witucki in A silane primer, Chemistry and applications of alkoxysilanes, Journal of Coatings Technology, 65, 822, pages 57-60, 1993.

[0138] Alkoxysilanes such as alkyltriethoxysilanes and alkyltrimethoxysilanes marketed under the references Milquet A-137® (OSI Specialities) and Prosil 9202® (PCR) can be used for coating pigments.

[0139] The use of alkylpolysiloxanes having a reactive terminal group such as alkoxy, hydroxy, halogen, amino or imino are described in the application JP H07-196946. They are also suitable for pigment processing. Silicone-acrylate polymers

[0140] Grafted silicone-acrylic polymers having a silicone backbone as described in US patents 5,725,882, US 5,209,924, US 4,972,037, US 4,981,903, US 4,981,902, US 5,468,477, and in patents US 5,219,560 and EP 0 388 582, can be used.

[0141] Other silicone-acrylate polymers may be silicone polymers comprising in their structure the following unit of formula (II): G^ --( —Si—o— (G.)” SG. G. in which the radicals Gi, identical or different, represent hydrogen or a C1-C10 alkyl radical or a phenyl radical; the radicals G2, identical or different, represent a C1-C10 alkylene group; G3 represents a polymeric residue resulting from the (homo)polymerization of at least one anionic monomer with ethylenic unsaturation; G4 represents a polymeric residue resulting from the (homo)polymerization of at least one hydrophobic monomer with ethylenic unsaturation; m and n are equal to 0 or 1; a is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; b is an integer which can be between 10 and 350, it is an integer ranging from 0 to 50, provided that one of the parameters a and c is other than 0.

[0142] Preferably, the unit of formula (I) above has at least one, and even more preferably all, of the following characteristics:

[0143] - the radicals Gi denote an alkyl radical, preferably the methyl radical; -n is non-zero, and the G2 radicals represent a divalent C1-C3 radical, preferably a propylene radical;

[0144] -G3 represents a polymeric radical resulting from the (homo)polymerization of at at least one monomer of the ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid type, preferably acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid;

[0145] - G4 represents a polymeric radical resulting from the (homo)polymerization of at at least one monomer of the (Ci-Cio)alkyl (meth)acrylate type, preferably of the isobutyl or methyl (meth)acrylate type.

[0146] Examples of silicone polymers corresponding to formula (I) are in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) onto which are grafted, via a connecting link of thiopropylene type, mixed polymer units of the poly(meth)acrylic acid type and of the poly(methyl meth)acrylate type.

[0147] Other examples of silicone polymers corresponding to formula (I) are in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) onto which are grafted, via a thiopropylene type connecting link, polymer units of the isobutyl poly(meth)acrylate type. Silicone resins

[0148] The silicone surfactant may be chosen from silicone resins such as those defined above. Fluorinated surfactant

[0149] The pigments can be surface treated totally or partially with a compound of a fluorinated nature.

[0150] The fluorinated surfactants may be chosen from perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoropoly ethers, polytetrafluoropolyethylenes (PTFE), perfluoroalkanes, perfluoroalkyl silazanes, hexafluoropropylene polyoxides, polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropoly ether groups.

[0151] The term perfluoroalkyl radical means an alkyl radical in which all the hydrogen atoms have been replaced by fluorine atoms.

[0152] Perfluoropolyethers are notably described in patent application EP 0 486 135, and sold under the trade names FOMBLIN by the company MONTEFLUOS.

[0153] Perfluoroalkyl phosphates are in particular described in application JP H05-86984. The perfluoroalkyl phosphate-diethanol amine marketed by Asahi Glass under the reference Asahi Guard AG530® can be used.

[0154] Among the linear perfluoroalkanes, mention may be made of perfluorocycloalkanes, perfluoro(alkylcycloalkanes), perfluoropolycycloalkanes, aromatic perfluorohydrocarbons (perfluoroarenes) and organoperfluorinated hydrocarbon compounds comprising at least one heteroatom.

[0155] Among the perfluoroalkanes, mention may be made of the series of linear alkanes such as perfluorooctane, perfluorononane or perfluorodecane.

[0156] Among the perfluorocycloalkanes and perfluoro(alkylcycloalkanes), mention may be made of perfluorodecalin sold under the name FLUTEC PP5 GMP by the company RHODIA, perfluoro(methyldecalin), perfluoro(C3-C5)alkyl-cyclohexanes) such as perfluoro(butylcyclohexane).

[0157] Among the perfluoropolycycloalkanes, mention may be made of bicyclo[3.3.1]nonane derivatives such as perfluorotrimethylbicyclo[3.3.1]nonane, adamantane derivatives such as perfluorodimethyladamantane and perfluorinated derivatives of hydrogenated phenanthrene such as tetracosafluoro-tetradecahydrophenanthrene.

[0158] Among the perfluoroarenes, mention may be made of perfluorinated derivatives of naphthalene such as perfluoronaphthalene and perfluoromethyl-1-naphthalene.

[0159] As examples of commercial references of pigments treated with a fluorinated compound, we can cite:

[0160] - yellow iron oxide / perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold under the reference PF 5 Yellow 601® by the Daito Kasei company;

[0161] - red iron oxide / perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold under the reference PF 5 Red R 516L® by Daito Kasei Company;

[0162] -black iron oxide / perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold under the reference PF 5 Black BL 100® by the company Daito Kasei;

[0163] - titanium dioxide / perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold under the reference PF 5 TiO2 CR 50® by Daito Kasei company;

[0164] -yellow iron oxide / perfluoropolymethylisopropylether sold under the reference Iron Oxide Yellow BF-25-3® by the company Toshiki;

[0165] - DC Red 7 / perfluoropolymethylisopropylether sold under the reference D&C Red 7 FHC® by Cardre Inc.; and

[0166] - DC Red 6 / PTFE sold under the reference T 9506® by the company Wamer- Jenkinson. Fluorosilicone surfactant

[0167] The pigments can be surface treated totally or partially with a compound of a fluoro-silicone nature.

[0168] The fluoro-silicone compound may be chosen from perfluoroalkyl dimethicones, perfluoroalkyl silanes and perfluoroalkyltrialkoxysilanes.

[0169] Examples of perfluoroalkyl silanes that may be mentioned are the products LP-IT® and LP-4T® marketed by Shin-Etsu Silicone.

[0170] As an example of commercial references of pigment treated with a fluoro-silicon compound, mention may be made of titanium dioxide / fluorosilicone sold under the reference Fluorosil Titanium Dioxide 100TA® by the company Advanced Dermaceuticals International Inc. Other lipophilic surfactants

[0171] The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be chosen from

[0172] (i) metallic soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, and aluminum salt hydrogenated tallow glutamate;

[0173] As metallic soaps, mention may in particular be made of metallic soaps of fatty acids having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and in particular those having from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0174] The metal in the metallic soap may in particular be zinc or magnesium.

[0175] As metallic soap, zinc laurate, magnesium stearate, magnesium myristate, zinc stearate, and mixtures thereof can be used.

[0176] The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be chosen from ii) fatty acids such as lauric acid, myristic acid, stearic acid, palmitic acid.

[0177] The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be chosen from iii) N-acylated amino acids or their salts which may comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as for example a 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, cocoyl group.

[0178] The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.

[0179] The salts of these compounds can be the salts of aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium, potassium.

[0180] Thus, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, an N-acylated amino acid derivative may in particular be a glutamic acid derivative and / or one of its salts, and more particularly a stearoyl glutamate, such as for example aluminum stearoyl glutamate.

[0181] The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be chosen from iv) lecithin and its derivatives.

[0182] The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be v) isopropyl triisostearyl titanate.

[0183] Examples of pigments treated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate (ITT) include those sold under the commercial reference BWB0-I2® (Iron oxide CI77499 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate), BWY0-I2® (Iron oxide CI77492 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate), and BWR0-I2® (Iron oxide CI77491 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate) by the company KOBO.

[0184] The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be vi) isostearyl sebacate.

[0185] The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be chosen from vii) na waxes vegetable or animal turelles or polar synthetic waxes;

[0186] The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be chosen from viii) fatty esters, in particular jojoba esters;

[0187] The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be chosen from ix) phospholipids.

[0188] The waxes mentioned in the compounds cited above may be those generally used in the cosmetic field, as defined below.

[0189] They may in particular be hydrocarbon-based, silicone-based and / or fluorinated, possibly comprising ester or hydroxyl functions. They may also be of natural or synthetic origin.

[0190] Polar wax means a wax containing chemical compounds comprising at least one polar group. Polar groups are well known to those skilled in the art; they may be, for example, alcohol, ester or carboxylic acid groups. Polar waxes do not include polyethylene waxes, waxes of paraffin, microcrystalline waxes, ozokerite, Fischer-Tropsch waxes.

[0191] In particular, polar waxes have an average HANSEN solubility parameter ôa at 25°C such that ôa > 0 (J / cm3)1 / 2 and better ôa > 1 (J / cm3)1 / 2:

[0192] [Math.l] where ôp and ôh are respectively the polar and interaction-type contributions specific to the Hansen solubility parameters.

[0193] The definition of solvents in the three-dimensional solubility space according to HANSEN is described in the article by CM HANSEN, The three dimensional solubility parameters J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967):

[0194] - ôh characterizes the specific interaction forces (hydrogen bond type, acid / base, donor / acceptor, etc.);

[0195] - ôp characterizes the DEBYE interaction forces between permanent dipoles as well than the KEESOM interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles.

[0196] The parameters ôp and ôh are expressed in (J / cm3)1 / 2.

[0197] A polar wax is notably made up of molecules comprising, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms in their chemical structure, heteroatoms (such as O, N, P).

[0198] By way of illustration and not limitation of these polar waxes, mention may in particular be made of natural polar waxes, such as beeswax, lanolin wax, orange wax, lemon wax, and Chinese insect waxes, rice bran wax, Carnauba wax, Candellila wax, Ouricury wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax, montan wax.

[0199] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments can be coated with at least one compound chosen from silicone surfactants; fluorinated surfactants; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; natural plant or animal waxes; fatty esters; and mixtures thereof.

[0200] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the pigments may be coated with an N-acylated amino acid and / or one of its salts, in particular with a glutamic acid derivative and / or one of its salts, or with a fatty ester, in particular with a jojoba ester.

[0201] According to a more particularly preferred embodiment, the pigments may be coated with an N-acylated amino acid and / or one of its salts, in particular with a glutamic acid derivative and / or one of its salts, in particular a stearoyl glutamate, such as for example aluminum stearoyl glutamate.

[0202] As examples of coated pigments according to the invention, mention may be made more particularly of titanium dioxides and iron oxides, coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate, for example marketed under the reference NAI by MIYOSHI KASEI. Pigments not coated with a hydrophobic compound

[0203] As stated previously, a composition may further contain pigments not coated with a lipophilic or hydrophobic compound.

[0204] These other pigments may be coated with a hydrophilic compound or uncoated.

[0205] These pigments may be mineral pigments, in particular as defined above.

[0206] These pigments can also be organic pigments.

[0207] By organic pigment is meant any pigment which meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the organic pigment chapter. The organic pigment may in particular be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complex type compounds, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone.

[0208] The organic pigment(s) may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370, 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, and the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole derivatives,phenolics as described in patent FR 2 679 771.,

[0209] These pigments can also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EPI 184426. These composite pigments can be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core covered at least partially with an organic pigment and at least one binder ensuring the fixing of the organic pigments on the core.

[0210] The pigment may also be a lake. By lake is meant insolubilized dyes adsorbed on insoluble particles, the whole thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.

[0211] The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium and sodium borosilicate or calcium and aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum.

[0212] Among the organic dyes, we can cite cochineal carmine. Other products known under the following names include: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 1 O (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).

[0213] Examples of lacquers include the product known under the name D&C Red 7 (CI 15 850:1). Nature of the hydrophilic coating

[0214] As stated previously, these other pigments can be coated with a hydrophilic compound.

[0215] Said hydrophilic compound for treating a pigment on the surface to optimize its dispersion in the gelled aqueous phase is more particularly chosen from biological polymers, carbohydrates, polysaccharides, polyacrylates or polyethylene glycol derivatives.

[0216] Examples of biological polymers include polymers based on carbohydrate-type monomers.

[0217] More particularly, mention may be made of biosaccharide gum; chitosans and their derivatives, such as butoxychitosan, carboxymethyl chitosan, carboxybutyl chitosan, chitosan gluconate, chitosan adipate, chitosan glycolate, chitosan lactate, etc.; chitins and their derivatives, such as carboxymethyl chitin, chitin glycolate; cellulose and its derivatives such as cellulose acetate; microcrystalline cellulose; distarch phosphate; sodium hyaluronate; soluble proteoglycans; galacto-arabinans; glycosaminoglycans; glycogen; Sclerotium gum; dextran; starch and its derivatives; and mixtures thereof.

[0218] Examples of carbohydrates that may be mentioned include polyhydroxyaldehydes or polyhydroxyketones, of general formula: Cx(H2O)y

[0219] in which x and y can range from 1 to 1,000,000.

[0220] Carbohydrates can be monosaccharides, disaccharides or polysaccharides.

[0221] Examples of carbohydrates that may be mentioned include amylodextrins, betaglucans, cyclodextrins, modified corn starch, glycogen, hyaluronic acid, luronic acid, hydroxypropylcyclodextrin, lactose, maltitol, guanosine, glyceryl starch, Triticum Vulgare starch, trehalose, sucrose and its derivatives, raffinose, sodium chondridine sulfate.

[0222] Also suitable as surface treatment agents are C1-C2o alkylene glycols or C1-C20 alkylene glycol ethers, alone or used in combination with tri-C1-C2o-alkylsilanes.

[0223] Examples that may be mentioned are pigments surface-treated with PEG alkyl ether alkoxy silane, such as, for example, pigments treated with PEG-8-methyl ether triethoxysilane marketed by the company KOBO under the name SW pigments.

[0224] Also suitable for the invention as surface treatment agent are silicones such as dimethicones having hydrophilic groups, also known as dimethicone copolyols or alkyl dimethicone copolyols. In particular, such dimethicones may comprise, as repeating units, C1-C20 alkylene oxides, such as ethylenic or propylenic.

[0225] As an example, mention may be made of the pigment treated with PEG-12-Dimethicone, marketed by the company SENSIENT CORPORATION, under the name LCW AQ® Pigment.

[0226] The quantity of pigments coated with at least one hydrophilic compound and / or uncoated pigments is in particular conditioned by the destination of the cosmetic composition considered and its adjustment is of course within the competence of the formulator of the composition.

[0227] According to a particular embodiment, the composition additionally comprises at least one pigment chosen from titanium dioxides and / or iron oxides, in particular coated with a hydrophobic surface treatment agent, in particular with an N-acylated amino acid and / or one of its salts, in particular with a glutamic acid derivative and / or one of its salts, in particular a stearoyl glutamate, such as for example aluminum stearoyl glutamate.

[0228] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one uncoated or coated pigment, preferably at least one coated pigment. Alpha hydroxy acid (AHA)

[0229] The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one alpha hydroxy acid.

[0230] By alpha hydroxy acid is meant according to the present invention a carboxylic acid having at least one hydroxy function occupying an alpha position on said acid (carbon adjacent to a carboxylic acid function). This acid can be present in the final composition in the form of free acid and / or in the form of one of its associated salts (salts with an organic base or an alkali in particular), in particular according to the final pH imposed on the composition.

[0231] The α-hydroxy acids (alpha hydroxy acids or AHAs) are, for example, chosen from lactic acid, citric acid, methyllactic acid, glucuronic acid, glycolic acid, pyruvic acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxynonanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyundecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetracosanoic acid, 2-hydroxyeicosanoic acid; mandelic acid; phenyllactic acid; gluconic acid; galacturonic acid; aleuritic acid; ribonic acid; tartronic acid; tartaric acid; malic acid; fumaric acid; their salts and mixtures thereof.

[0232] According to a preferred embodiment, the alpha hydroxy acid is chosen from lactic acid, citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid and their salts. More particularly, the alpha hydroxy acid is chosen from lactic acid, citric acid, their salts and their mixtures. Advantageously, the alpha hydroxy acid is lactic acid or one of its salts.

[0233] The alpha hydroxy acid(s) may be present in an amount ranging from 0.001 to 10% by weight, from 0.005 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Surfactant

[0234] The composition may also comprise at least one surfactant, preferably non-ionic, cationic or anionic, preferentially a non-ionic surfactant.

[0235] Preferably, the non-ionic surfactant may be chosen from non-ionic surfactants known from the prior art, in particular from fatty acid and polyglycerol esters, sugar esters, poloxamers, polysorbates and mixtures thereof.

[0236] Preferably, the non-ionic surfactant is chosen from fatty acid and polyglycerol esters and sugar esters, preferentially from fatty acid and polyglycerol esters.

[0237] When present, the non-ionic surfactant(s) is (are) present in a content of between 0.01% and 15% by weight, preferably in a content of between 0.05% and 10% by weight, preferably between 0.1% and 5% by weight, preferentially between 0.1% and 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Physiologically acceptable aqueous medium

[0238] The composition according to the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium.

[0239] Said medium comprises in particular water.

[0240] The water used may be sterile demineralized water and / or a floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or linden water, and / or a natural thermal or mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water.

[0241] The composition preferably comprises at least 5% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at least 10% by weight, preferably at least 20% by weight, preferably at least 25%, preferably at least 30% by weight, preferably at least 35%, preferably at least 40% by weight, preferably at least 50% by weight, more preferably at least 60% by weight, even more preferably at least 70% by weight, advantageously at least 80% by weight.

[0242] The composition preferably comprises from 5% to 95% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 10% to 85%, even more preferably from 20% to 80%, even more preferably from 25% to 75%, even more preferably from 28% to 70%, even more preferably from 30% to 65%, even more preferably from 35% to 60%.

[0243] The aqueous phase may also comprise at least one organic solvent miscible in water at 25°C.

[0244] Preferably, the water-miscible organic solvent is chosen from alcohols, polyols and their mixtures.

[0245] Among the alcohols, mention may be made of C1-C10 alcohols, more preferably C1-C5, such as ethanol, isopropanol, propanol and butanol.

[0246] The polyol is preferably chosen from polyols having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, more preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, diglycerol, propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, pentylene glycol, polyethylene glycols having from 2 to 200 ethylene oxide units and mixtures thereof.

[0247] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises ethanol.

[0248] The composition may comprise from 0.1% to 25% by weight of water-miscible organic solvent, relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight, even more preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, even more preferably from 1.5% to 10% by weight, advantageously from 2% to 5% by weight.

[0249] Preferably, the weight ratio between the polyol(s), if present, and the chitosan (i.e. polyol(s): chitosan weight ratio) is between 0.1 and 6. Preferably, it is between 0.1 and 5, preferably between 0.2 and 5, preferably between 0.2 and 4.5, preferably between 0.5 and 2. Oily phase

[0250] The composition according to the invention preferably also comprises at least one oily phase. When the composition used according to the invention comprises an oily phase, the latter preferably contains at least one oil, in particular a cosmetic oil. It may also contain other fatty substances.

[0251] By “oil” is meant a non-aqueous compound, liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa), immiscible with water.

[0252] By "immiscible" is meant that the mixture of the same quantity of water and oil, after stirring, does not lead to a stable solution comprising only one phase, under the aforementioned temperature and pressure conditions. The observation is made by eye or by means of a phase contrast microscope if necessary, on 100g of mixture obtained after Rayneri stirring sufficient to cause a vortex to appear within the mixture (for information 200 to 1000 rpm); the resulting mixture being left to stand, in a closed bottle, for 24 hours at room temperature before observation.

[0253] As oils which can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example: - hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene

[0254] - hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as liquid triglycerides fatty acids containing 4 to 10 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor, avocado oils, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil;

[0255] - synthetic esters and ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as oils of formulas R1COOR2 and R1OR2 in which RI represents the residue of a fatty acid containing from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or not, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as for example Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearylmalate, triisocetyl citrate, fatty alcohol heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate or dipentaerythritol pentaisononanoate thrityl;

[0256] - linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, branched-chain hydrocarbon oils containing 10 to 20 carbon atoms such as isohexadecane, isododecane, isoparaffins and their mixtures, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, polyisobutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as, for example, Parléam® marketed by the company NIPPON OIL FATS, PANALANE H-300 E marketed by the company AMOCO, VISEAL 20000 marketed by the company SYNTEAL, REWOPAL PIB 1000 marketed by the company WITCO, or PARLEAM LITE marketed by NOF Corporation, branched alkanes alone or in mixtures, such as the mixture of undecane and tridecane marketed under the name Cetiol UT by BASF, or alkanes of plant origin, in particular coconut, such as those marketed under the name VEGELIGHT SILK by BIOSYNTHIS, or the mixture of C13-15 alkanes marketed under the name NEOSSANCE HEMISQUALANE CN by AMYRIS;;

[0257] - partially hydrocarbon and / or silicone fluorinated oils such as those described in document JP-A-2-295912; or

[0258] - their mixtures.

[0259] The composition may comprise from 5% to 90% by weight of oily phase, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 7% to 80% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 60% by weight, advantageously from 15% to 40% by weight.

[0260] According to a preferred embodiment, the oily phase contains at least one non-volatile oil, the weight content of which is less than or equal to 50%, preferably less than or equal to 40%, preferably less than or equal to 30%, preferably less than or equal to 20%, preferably less than or equal to 15%, preferably less than or equal to 10% and preferably less than or equal to 5%. Advantageously, the weight ratio between the non-volatile oil and the modified clay is between 0.01 and 100, preferably between 0.05 and 50, preferably between 0.1 and 20, preferably between 0.2 and 10, preferably between 0.5 and 5, preferably between 1 and 3.

[0261] By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on keratin materials at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and in particular having a vapor pressure of less than 10-3 mm Hg (0.13 Pa).

[0262] The oils can be chosen from the oils mentioned above.

[0263] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention further comprises a volatile oil and / or a volatile alcohol.

[0264] For the purposes of the invention, the term “volatile oil” means any oil capable of evaporate on contact with the skin, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oils of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils, liquid at room temperature, having a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (0.001 to 300 mm Hg) and preferably ranging from 1.3 to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg).

[0265] The volatile oil may be chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils, volatile silicone oils, volatile fluorinated oils, and mixtures thereof, preferably from volatile hydrocarbon oils.

[0266] The volatile hydrocarbon oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular branched C8-C16 alkanes such as C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopars® or Permethyls®.

[0267] In particular, the composition according to the invention may comprise isododecane, cyclopentasiloxane; isohexadecane or their mixture.

[0268] The composition according to the invention may comprise a volatile oil in a content ranging from 1 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 5 to 50% by weight, more preferably ranging from 10 to 40% by weight, and even more preferably from 15 to 25% by weight.

[0269] By volatile alcohol is meant a C1-C4 alcohol, such as for example ethanol, isopropanol, butanol, n-propanol.

[0270] The composition according to the invention may comprise a volatile alcohol in a content ranging from 0.1% to 25% by weight of water-miscible organic solvent, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, even more preferably from 1.5% to 10% by weight, advantageously from 2% to 5% by weight. pH of the composition

[0271] The composition according to the invention has a pH less than or equal to 7, preferably less than or equal to 6.5, preferably less than or equal to 6.3. Advantageously, the pH of the composition is between 3 and 6.3, preferably between 4 and 6.3.

[0272] Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one base and / or at least one acid. The base and the acid according to the invention are known and conventionally used in the cosmetic field.

[0273] The base and / or acid are notably used to adjust the final pH of the composition between 3 and 6.3.

[0274] The acid can for example be citric acid.

[0275] The base can be chosen from mineral bases such as, for example, hy- alkali metal oxides, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide.

[0276] Preferably, the base of the composition is an alkali metal hydroxide, preferably sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide.

[0277] The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one base with an active material content ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 1% to 5% by weight, preferably ranging from 1% to 4% by weight.

[0278] The composition in accordance with the invention can be obtained in a conventional manner by a person skilled in the art.

[0279] The expressions “between ... and ...”, “ranging from ... to ...” and “varies from ... to ...” must be understood inclusively, unless otherwise specified.

[0280] Concrete, but in no way limiting, examples illustrating the invention will now be given.

[0281] EXAMPLES

[0282] Example 1: Preparation of the compositions according to the invention C2 and C3 and of the comparative compositions Cl* and C4*

[0283] The compositions according to the invention C2 and C3 and the comparative compositions Cl* and C4* (inverse emulsions) are prepared with the ingredients mentioned in the table below, according to the following protocol:

[0284] Under a deflocculating rayneri, add the Chitosan by raining it onto the water. Add the lactic acid and leave for 5 min at 300 rpm.

[0285] Meanwhile, in the final beaker, mix the isododecane and polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate under a Rayneri deflocculator at 250 rpm.

[0286] Add disteardimonium hectorite and stir vigorously at 1000 rpm for 5 min.

[0287] Slowly add the aqueous phase to the final beaker while increasing the rotation speed to 500 rpm.

[0288] Add the dry pigment pastes then the alcohol.

[0289] The quantities of each ingredient are expressed in mass ratio relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0290] [Tables 1] Phase Ingredient Cl* (% w / w) (comparative) C2 (% w / w) (invention) C3 (% w / w) (invention) C4* (% w / w) (comparative) A Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Chitosan 4 2 2 - Lactic acid [90% by mass in ma] 2 1 1 - Ethanol 3 3 3 3 B Dimethicone - - 10 - Isododecane 14.10 14.10 4.10 14.10 Polyglycerol-6 polyricinoleate 6 6 6 6 disteardimonium hectorite - 2 2 4 Pigments* 12.23 12.23 12.23 12.23 Clay / chitosan ratio - 1 1 -

[0291] *The pigments used in the compositions are a mixture of TiO2 pigments surface-treated with stearoyl glutamate and iron oxides treated with the disodium stearoyl glutamate / aluminum hydroxide couple (NAI-White A and NAL BHP-10, NAI-YHP-10 and NAI-R-800HP-10 from Miyoshi Kasei

[0292] Example 2: Evaluation of the compositions according to the invention C2 and C3 and of the comparative compositions Cl* and C4*

[0293] The dry, water and oil resistance of C1*, C2, C3 and C4* of Example 1 were evaluated in vitro according to the following protocols:

[0294] Protocol for spreading compositions into a film

[0295] The spreading of each composition is done on a spreading bench (Elcometer 4340 Applicator) allowing its speed and the distance over which it is done to be adjusted. The bench is equipped with a suction system connected to a pump so that the support where the spreading is done does not move. Contrast cards with a black background and an unvarnished white background are used (1 byko-chart, uncoated N2A, code 2831). The spreading thickness is adjustable thanks to the square spreader placed on the support of way to spread by leveling when the platform is turned on. Each slice of the spreader allows spreading with a different thickness ranging from 25qm to 200qm. The chosen thickness is 25 pm in order to approach an in vivo film thickness. A weight of 960 g is added on top of the spreader during spreading. The spreading speed is set to lin / sec, or 2.54cm / s. The films are dried for 24 hours at room temperature and humidity (RH) (50% RH).

[0296] Contrast ratio measurement protocol for objectification of coverage

[0297] Color measurement is performed using a Konica Minolta CM-700d spectrophotometer. Contact measurement ensures the absence of light pollution.

[0298] Selected settings: Aperture 8 mm; Uncertainty: 0.04; SCI / SCE measurement; Geometry d / 8°.

[0299] The color measurements on the two backgrounds (black background FN and white background FB) make it possible to characterize the coverage of a foundation by calculating the “contrast ratio”, (CR%), i.e. YFN / YFB x 100, where YFN and YFB are respectively the luminance values ​​measured on a black background and the white background, the latter being higher the more covering the foundation is.

[0300] Dry, water and oil resistance test protocol

[0301] The water friction resistance test is carried out by colorimetric measurements. on dry film before and after abrasion. Abrasion is performed by attaching a strip of tissue (Chicopee Veraclean Polish Plus) wetted if necessary (400 μL of water or oil in the tissue) to the spreader edge at 25 μm. The 960 g weight is added over the spreader during abrasion. The bench speed is set at 2.54 cm / s.

[0302] The measurement of the color before and after abrasion is done with the spectrophotometric method described above.

[0303] In order to evaluate the resistance to friction, the "Contrast Ratio" respectively before friction (CR Dry Deposition, %) and after abrasion (CR Rub Dry Deposition, %) are measured. The loss [(CR Rub Dry Deposition - CR Dry Deposition] / CR Dry Deposition] *100, in percentage, quantifies the loss of coverage and indicates the resistance of the film to friction: the lower this loss, the more resistant the film is to friction.

[0304] Each CR value represents an average of 3 to 6 measurements.

[0305] The sensoriality of these compositions was also evaluated according to the protocol following :

[0306] The sensoriality of the film is evaluated on dry deposits of 25pm thickness (see “protocol for spreading compositions in a film”). 7 people positioned the compositions in relation to each other on 2 sensory criteria expected by consumers: slipperiness and softness. The evaluation of these criteria is done from non-slippery (i.e. braking) or not soft (i.e. rough), to “++” for very slippery or very soft respectively.

[0307] The results obtained are summarized in the table below.

[0308] [Tables2] Cl* (% w / w) (comparative) C2 (% w / w) (invention) C3 (% w / w) (invention) C4* (% w / w) (comparative) Dry strength % (±%) 89 (4) 88 (11) 93 (7) Not relevant Water resistance % (±%) 107 (5) 96 (9) 89 (8) Not relevant Appearance of the emulsion Homogeneous and removable Homogeneous and removable Homogeneous and removable Non-homogeneous and difficult to remove Appearance “Chewing Gum” Coverage / Homogeneity 55 (4) 64 (8) 39 (6) Not relevant Sensoriality of the deposit Softness - Slippery - Softness++ Slippery ++ - -

[0309] These results, with total mass iso-content between clay and / or chitosan, demonstrate that: - Composition Cl* containing only clay cannot be sampled compared to the other compositions in the example, - The C2 composition containing both clay and chitosan is both softer and more slippery than the formula containing only chitosan while presenting excellent performance in terms of water and dry resistance (close to 100%), - Formula C3 containing both clay and chitosan and 10% silicone (Dimethicone) has excellent wet and dry hold performance, but lower coverage than silicone-free formulas.

Claims

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition, in particular for makeup and / or care of the skin and / or lips and / or appendages, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium: a) from 0.01 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of native chitosan having a molecular weight strictly greater than 3000 Daltons, and b) at least one modified clay.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the native chitosan has a molecular weight greater than or equal to 10 kDa, preferably greater than or equal to 15 kDa, preferably greater than or equal to 20 kDa, preferably the native chitosan has a molecular weight between 10 kDa and 2 MDa, preferably between 15 kDa and 1.5 MDa, preferably between 20 kDa and 300 kDa, preferably between 20 kDa and 200 kDa.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the native chitosan has a degree of acetylation of the chitosan less than or equal to 80%, preferably less than or equal to 70%, preferably less than or equal to 60%, preferably less than or equal to 50%, preferably less than or equal to 35%, preferably less than or equal to 25%, preferably less than or equal to 15%.

4. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the native chitosan is a polysaccharide prepared from a fungal origin, preferably from the mycelium of a fungus of the As-comycete type, and in particular from Aspergillus niger and / or from a Basidiomycete fungus, and in particular Lentinula edodes and / or Agaricus bisporus, preferably the fungus is Aspergillus niger.

5. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the native chitosan is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 14% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 14% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 12% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 7% by weight, preferably from 0.25% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 3% by weight, or even more preferably from 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the modified clay is chosen from hydrophobic clays, preferably modified by an alkyl ammonium salt, of preferably by a C10-C22 dialkyldimethylammonium halide or a C10-C22 alkyldimethylbenzyl ammonium halide.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the modified clay is chosen from modified bentonites or modified hectorites, preferably from hectorites modified with a C10-C22 dialkyldimethylammonium chloride, advantageously is hectorite modified with distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride.

8. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the modified clay is present in a content of between 0.05% and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.1% and 20% by weight, preferentially between 0.2% and 12% by weight, advantageously between 0.5% and 10% by weight.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the weight ratio between the modified clay and the chitosan is greater than or equal to 0.001, preferably greater than or equal to 0.003, preferably greater than 0.005, preferably greater than 0.01, and even more preferably greater than 0.

1. According to one embodiment, the weight ratio between the modified clay and the chitosan is preferably between 0.001 and 3000, preferably between 0.003 and 1000, preferably between 0.01 and 100, preferably between 0.1 and 20 and even more preferably between 0.2 and 10.

10. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one pigmentary coloring matter, preferably chosen from mineral pigments, preferentially chosen from titanium dioxide, iron oxides, zirconium or cerium oxides, zinc or chromium oxides and mixtures thereof, advantageously the pigmentary coloring matter is chosen from titanium dioxide, iron oxides and mixtures thereof.

11. Composition according to claim 10, in which the pigmentary coloring matter is present in a content ranging from 0.5% to 70% by weight, preferably from 1% to 60% by weight, preferably from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 2% to 40% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, preferably from 4% to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% to 25% by weight, preferably from 6% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 8 to 18% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. A composition according to any preceding claim, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition, 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, of silicone.

13. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, being substantially free of silicone other than a film-forming or tackifying silicone polymer; preferably the composition comprises less than 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.3% by weight, preferentially 0.1% by weight of silicone other than a film-forming or tackifying silicone polymer, preferably the composition is completely free of silicone other than a film-forming or tackifying silicone polymer, preferentially the composition according to the invention is substantially free of silicone, advantageously the composition is completely free of silicone.

14. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one alpha hydroxy acid, preferably chosen from lactic acid, citric acid, methyllactic acid, glucuronic acid, glycolic acid, pyruvic acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxynonanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyundecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetracosanoic acid, 2-hydroxyeicosanoic acid; mandelic acid; phenyllactic acid; gluconic acid; galacturonic acid; aleuritic acid; ribonic acid; tartronic acid; tartaric acid; malic acid; fumaric acid; their salts and mixtures thereof.

15. A composition according to any preceding claim, in the form of an emulsion, preferably an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion.

16. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the physiologically acceptable aqueous medium comprises at least 5% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at least 10% by weight, preferably at least 20% by weight, preferably at least 25%, preferably at least 30% by weight, preferably at least 35%, preferably at least 40% by weight. weight; preferably from 5% to 95% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 10% to 85%, even more preferably from 20% to 80%, even more preferably from 25% to 75%, even more preferably from 28% to 70%, even more preferably from 30% to 65%, even more preferably from 35% to 60%; and optionally at least one organic solvent miscible in water at 25°C chosen from alcohols, polyols and their mixtures, preferably the weight ratio between the polyol(s), if present, and the chitosan is between 0.1 and 6, preferably between 0.1 and 5, preferably between 0.2 and 5, preferably between 0.2 and 4.5, preferably between 0.5 and 2.

17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one surfactant, preferably a non-ionic surfactant, preferably in a content by weight of between 0.01% and 15% by weight, preferably in a content of between 0.05% and 10% by weight, preferably between 0.1% and 5% by weight, preferentially between 0.1% and 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one non-volatile oil, preferably in a weight content of less than or equal to 50%, preferably less than or equal to 40%, preferably less than or equal to 30%, preferably less than or equal to 20%, preferably less than or equal to 15%, preferably less than or equal to 10%, and preferably less than or equal to 5% and / or the weight ratio of the non-volatile oil to the modified clay is between 0.01 and 100, preferably between 0.05 and 50, preferably between 0.1 and 20, preferably between 0.2 and 10, preferably between 0.5 and 5, preferably between 1 and 3.

19. A composition according to any preceding claim, further comprising a volatile oil and / or a volatile alcohol.

20. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, which has a pH less than or equal to 7, preferably less than or equal to 6.5, preferably less than or equal to 6.3, preferably between 3 and 6.3, preferably between 4 and 6.

3.

21. Cosmetic process for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or the lips and / or the appendages, in which the composition according to one of the preceding claims is applied to the skin and / or the lips and / or the appendages.