oil-in-water emulsion and its use in cosmetics

Abstract

Oil-in-water emulsion and its use in cosmetics. The present invention relates to a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, particularly for cosmetic use, especially for makeup and / or the care of keratinous materials, comprising: - at least one oil phase, - at least one emulsifier comprising at least one phospholipid, and - at least one hydrophilic gelling agent, characterized in that the composition comprises less than 2.0% by weight of silicone oil, relative to the total weight of the composition. Figure for the abstract: None

Description

Title of the invention: oil-in-water emulsion and its use in cosmetics Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of care and / or makeup of keratin materials, in particular anti-aging care and / or hydration of keratin materials, in particular of the skin.

[0002] The present invention aims to provide a composition for topical application in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion, and to the cosmetic use of said composition for the care, hygiene, protection and / or makeup of keratin materials such as the skin of the body or face, in particular for anti-aging care and / or hydration of said keratin materials.

[0003] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "keratin materials" is intended to denote in particular the skin, the lips and / or the eyelashes, in particular the skin and / or the lips, and preferably the skin of the body and / or the face, and more preferably of the face. Prior art

[0004] The formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, i.e. those whose design and development take environmental issues into account, is becoming a major concern to help meet global challenges.

[0005] It is therefore essential to propose more sustainable compositions and / or preparation processes and / or ingredients, thus making it possible to respond to these environmental challenges.

[0006] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or with a good index of naturalness and / or of natural origin and more particularly of plant origin while reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin.

[0007] Still in this context, new emulsifying systems capable of meeting both this environmental requirement and presenting adequate properties in terms of sensory experiences and stability are constantly sought.

[0008] An emulsifying system comprising at least one phospholipid, in particular at least hydrogenated lecithin, meets the criterion of respect for the environment. In particular, it has been reported that this emulsifier of natural origin allows the formation of O / W lamellar emulsions offering perfect affinity with the skin, with a velvety, soft and slippery feel.

[0009] However, the formulation of compositions for anti-aging care and / or skin hydration, using such an emulsifying system, can prove difficult in terms of stability. Indeed, the release of aqueous exudates has been observed in compositions in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion formulated from such an emulsifier. Statement of the invention

[0010] There therefore remains a need for eco-designed cosmetic compositions improved in terms of naturalness, biodegradability, sustainability and renewability without compromising sensoriality, within the framework of the development of compositions for anti-aging care and / or for skin hydration.

[0011] In particular, there remains a need to formulate such compositions having a sensoriality adapted to the needs of anti-aging and / or moisturizing compositions and having good stability.

[0012] Finally, there also remains a need to have compositions compatible with current consumer requirements, particularly from an environmental point of view.

[0013] The present invention aims precisely to meet all or part of these needs. Summary of the invention

[0014] Thus, according to a first of its aspects, the present invention relates to a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, in particular cosmetic, in particular for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, comprising: - at least one fatty phase, - at least one emulsifier comprising at least one phospholipid, and - at least one hydrophilic gelling agent, characterized in that the composition comprises less than 2.0% by weight of silicone oil, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0015] Indeed, the inventors have found, surprisingly, that the formulation of a combination of an emulsifying system comprising at least one phospholipid, in particular at least hydrogenated lecithin, and at least one hydrophilic gelling agent, in particular chosen from polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized, such as poly(2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid), in a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, having a content of less than 2.0% by weight of silicone oil, relative to the total weight of the composition, advantageously makes it possible to obtain a composition combining both excellent stability and sensory performance, in particular a reduction in whitening on application and a reduction, or even an absence, of whitening after application. on the skin.

[0016] Furthermore, the compositions thus obtained have good rheological properties, in particular in terms of viscosity and / or texture and particularly advantageous cosmetic properties, in particular in terms of reduced soaping effects during application and after application and a very good anti-aging and / or moisturizing effect.

[0017] In particular, the compositions obtained have a satisfactory appearance, a flexible texture and are easy to apply and spread. After application, such compositions leave a feeling of freshness, hydration, nutrition, softness and comfort on the skin. Furthermore, no greasy, oily or sticky effect is obtained upon application of these compositions and no feeling of irritation or discomfort is present.

[0018] Finally, the compositions obtained maintain the effects obtained from the moment of application, in particular throughout the day during which a feeling of comfort and freshness remains present. The skin also remains hydrated and soft, it breathes and is not suffocated, nor greasy, nor sticky, nor shiny, and feelings of tightness, dryness, flaking and roughness are avoided.

[0019] Advantageously, a composition according to the invention is more natural while meeting the requirements expected by users in the field of anti-aging or moisturizing compositions.

[0020] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 1.0% by weight of silicone oil(s), preferably less than 0.5% by weight of silicone oil(s), relative to the total weight of the composition, and more preferably being free of silicone oil(s).

[0021] A composition according to the invention is in particular used for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials, and preferably for the care of keratin materials.

[0022] Thus, the invention also relates, according to another of these aspects, to a cosmetic process for making up and / or caring for, preferably caring for, keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin materials a composition according to the invention.

[0023] In particular, a composition according to the invention can be used for the purpose of combating the signs of skin aging, in particular skin photoaging, or for the purpose of hydrating the skin.

[0024] Thus, the present application also relates to the cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention in order to combat the signs of skin aging, in particular skin photoaging or in order to moisturize the skin.

[0025] It is understood that the methods and processes defined according to the present invention are non-therapeutic.

[0026] Other characteristics, variants and advantages of the compositions according to the invention will become more apparent on reading the description and examples which follow. Detailed description Composition

[0027] As stated previously, a composition according to the invention may be cosmetic and / or dermatological, and preferably is cosmetic.

[0028] A composition according to the invention is generally suitable for topical application to the skin and therefore generally comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e. compatible with the skin.

[0029] It is preferably a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and does not generate unacceptable discomfort, that is to say tingling, tightness, redness, likely to discourage the user from applying this composition.

[0030] A cosmetic composition according to the invention is in the form of a direct or oil-in-water emulsion, namely comprising a continuous aqueous phase and a fatty phase, in particular in a content of at least 8% by weight, dispersed in said aqueous phase.

[0031] A composition according to the invention can be prepared according to techniques well known to those skilled in the art. Phospholipid

[0032] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one phospholipid.

[0033] The phospholipid is preferably chosen from:

[0034] - natural phospholipids, in particular egg or soy lecithin, or sphin- gomyelin,

[0035] - phospholipids modified by chemical or enzymatic means, in particular hydrogenated lecithin, and

[0036] - synthetic phospholipids, in particular dipalmitoylphosphatidylcholine.

[0037] The phospholipid is preferably hydrogenated lecithin.

[0038] Preferably, the phospholipid is present in a mixture with fatty alcohols such as alcohols having from 12 to 16 carbon atoms, and / or with a fatty acid such as palmitic acid. Preferably, the phospholipid is marketed under the INCI name C12-16 ALCOHOLS (and) PALMITIC ACID (and) HYDROGENATED LECITHIN (translated as C12-16 ALCOHOLS (and) PALMITIC ACID (and) HYDROGENATED LECITHIN), and in particular under the reference Biophilic™ H MB from Lucas Meyer Cosmetics.

[0039] The phospholipid is present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of preferably between 0.01% and 3% by weight, more preferably between 0.05% and 2% by weight, and better still between 0.1% and 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Hydrophilic gelling agent

[0040] As already mentioned above, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one hydrophilic gelling agent.

[0041] The hydrophilic gelling agent according to the invention may be synthetic or natural.

[0042] The hydrophilic gelling agent (or thickener) may in particular be chosen from:

[0043] 1) carboxyvinyl polymers

[0044] Carboxyvinyl polymers may or may not be modified.

[0045] These may be polyacrylate salts. These are in particular crosslinked and neutralized polymers, in non-particulate form.

[0046] Sodium salts are advantageously preferred.

[0047] We can cite in particular the polymers bearing the INCI name sodium polyacrylate such as:

[0048] - Cosmedia SP® or crosslinked sodium polyacrylate containing 90% of material dry and 10% water, Cosmedia SPL® or sodium polyacrylate in inverse emulsion containing approximately 60% dry active ingredient, an oil (hydrogenated polydecene) and a surfactant (PPG-5 Laureth-5), both sold by BASF; and

[0049] - partially neutralized crosslinked sodium polyacrylates found under form of an inverse emulsion comprising at least one polar oil, for example that sold under the name Luvigel® EM sold by the company BASF or under the name SALCARE AST from CIBA (BASF) (INCI name: Sodium Acrylates Copolymer (and) PPG-1 Trideceth-6 (and) Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil).

[0050] Mention may also be made, in particular, of polymers bearing the INCI name sodium polymethacrylate, for example DARVAN® 7-N from the company Vanderbilt.

[0051] Among the carboxyvinyl polymers suitable for the invention, mention may also be made of those marketed under the following names:

[0052] - Carbopol® (INCI name: carbomer) from the company Goodrich;

[0053] - Pemulen™ (INCI name: Acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer) of the Goodrich Company;

[0054] - AQUPEC MG N40R (INCI name: Sodium Carbomer) from the company SUMITOMO SEIKA;

[0055] - ACULYN™ 88 POLYMER (INCI name: Acrylates / Steareth-20 Methacrylate Crosspolymer) from Dow Chemical Company;

[0056] - ACULYN™ 28 POLYMER (INCI name: Acrylates / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer) from Dow Chemical Company;

[0057] - ARISTOFLEX® Velvet from Clariant (INCI: Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-11).

[0058] The carboxy vinyl polymers may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of dry matter of between 0.1 and 3% by weight, more particularly between 0.1 and 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0059] 2) polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS). in particular homopolymers or copolymers, crosslinked or non-crosslinked, comprising at least the monomer acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS), in particular in a form partially or totally neutralized by a mineral base other than ammonia such as sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide.

[0060] These AMPS polymers can be completely neutralized or practically completely neutralized, i.e. neutralized to at least 90%.

[0061] These AMPS polymers can be crosslinked or non-crosslinked.

[0062] The AMPS polymers suitable for the invention are hydrophilic, i.e. hydro soluble or water-dispersible. They can be:

[0063] - either “homopolymers” comprising only AMPS monomers and, if they are crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents such as those defined above;

[0064] - either copolymers obtained from AMPS and one or more monomers for example ethylenically unsaturated, hydrophilic or hydrophobic, and, if crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents such as those defined below. When said copolymers comprise hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers, they are preferably present in small amounts.

[0065] By "water-soluble or water-dispersible" is meant polymers which, for example, introduced into an aqueous phase at 25°C, at a mass concentration equal to 1%, make it possible to obtain a macroscopically homogeneous and transparent solution, in particular having a maximum light transmittance value, at a wavelength equal to 500 nm, through a sample 1 cm thick, of at least 60%, preferably at least 70%.

[0066] The polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS) optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized, are for example chosen from:

[0067] a) poly(2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid) polymers, in particular homopolymers, polyAMPS, crosslinked and neutralized to at least 90%.

[0068] They are generally characterized by the fact that they include, randomly distributed:

[0069] i) from 90 to 99.9% by weight of units of general formula (1) below:

[0070] [Chem.l] CK , / / ​​CH 1 CK IQ ----Q--S0s X ' CH,

[0071] in which X+ denotes a cation or a mixture of cations, at most 10 mol% of the cations X+ being able to be protons H+; and

[0072] ii) from 0.01 to 10% by weight of crosslinking units originating from at least one monomer having at least two olefinic double bonds; the proportions by weight being defined relative to the total weight of the polymer.

[0073] This polymer preferably comprises from 98 to 99.5% by weight of units of formula (1) and from 0.2 to 2% by weight of crosslinking units.

[0074] The cation X+ represents a cation or a mixture of cations chosen in particular from a proton, an alkali metal cation, a cation equivalent to that of an alkaline earth metal or the ammonium ion. The preferred cation X+ is the cation NH4+. More particularly, 90 to 100 mol% of the cations are NH4+ cations and 0 to 10 mol% are protons (H+).

[0075] The crosslinking monomers having at least two olefinic double bonds are chosen, for example, from dipropylene glycol diallyl ether, polyglycol diallyl ethers, triethylene glycol divinyl ether, hydroquinone diallyl ether, tetrallyl oxethanoyl or other allyl or vinyl ether polyfunctional alcohols, tetraethylene glycol diacrylate, triallylamine, trimethylolpropane diallyl ether, methylene bis acrylamide or divinylbenzene.

[0076] The crosslinking monomers having at least two olefinic double bonds are more particularly chosen from those corresponding to the following general formula (2):

[0077] [Chem.2]

[0078] in which Ri denotes a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl radical and more particularly the methyl radical (trimethylol propane triacrylate).

[0079] As polymers of this type, mention may be made in particular of crosslinked polymers or non-sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonate such as that used in the commercial product Simulgel™ 800 (INCI name: Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate (and) Polysorbate 80 (and) Sorbitan Oleate) from Seppic, crosslinked polymers of ammonium acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonate (INCI name: Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate) as marketed under the name “Hostacerin® AMPS” by Clariant. In particular, as AMPS homopolymers suitable for the invention, mention may be made of the crosslinked and neutralized homopolymer of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, marketed by Clariant under the trade name “Hostacerin® AMPS” (INCI name: Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate).

[0080] b) AMPS copolymers, containing in particular water-soluble ethylenically unsaturated monomers, hydrophobic monomers or mixtures thereof.

[0081] The water-soluble comonomers can be ionic or non-ionic.

[0082] Among the ionic water-soluble comonomers, the following compounds and their salts may be mentioned for example:

[0083] - (meth)acrylic acid,

[0084] - styrene sulfonic acid,

[0085] - vinylsulfonic acid and (meth)allylsulfonic acid,

[0086] - vinyl phosphonic acid,

[0087] - maleic acid,

[0088] - itaconic acid,

[0089] - crotonic acid,

[0090] - the water-soluble vinyl monomers of the following formula (3):

[0091] [Chem.3] h2c=cr1 CO IX,

[0092] in which:

[0093] - Ri is chosen from H, -CH3, -C2H5 or -C3H7;

[0094] - Xi is chosen from alkyl oxides of type -OR2 where R2 is a hy radical carbon, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, substituted by at least one sulfonic group (-SO3-) and / or sulfate (-SO4-) and / or phosphate (-PO4H2-).

[0095] Among the non-ionic water-soluble comonomers, we can cite for example:

[0096] - (meth)acrylamide,

[0097] - N-vinylacetamide and N-methyl N-vinylacetamide,

[0098] - N-vinylformamide and N-methyl N-vinylformamide,

[0099] - maleic anhydride,

[0100] - vinylamine,

[0101] - N-vinyllactams comprising a cyclic alkyl group having from 4 to 9 atoms of carbon, such as N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-butyrolactam and N-vinylcaprolactam,

[0102] - vinyl alcohol of formula CH2=CHOH,

[0103] - the water-soluble vinyl monomers of the following formula (4):

[0104] [Chem.4] h2c=çr3 CO I *2

[0105] in which:

[0106] - R3 is chosen from H, -CH3, -C2H5 or -C3H7;

[0107] - X2 is chosen from alkyl oxides of type -OR4 where R4 is a hy radical carbon, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 6 carbons, optionally substituted by a halogen atom (iodine, bromine, chlorine, fluorine), a hydroxyl group (-OH) or ether.

[0108] Examples that may be mentioned are glycidyl (meth)acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate, and ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol or polyalkylene glycol (meth)acrylates.

[0109] Among the hydrophobic comonomers without fatty chain, we can cite for example:

[0110] - styrene and its derivatives such as 4-butylstyrene, alpha methylstyrene and vi- nyltoluene;

[0111] - vinyl acetate of formula CH2=CH-OCOCH3;

[0112] - vinyl ethers of formula CH2=CHOR in which R is a hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 6 carbons;

[0113] -acrylonitrile;

[0114] - caprolactone;

[0115] - vinyl chloride and vinylidene chloride;

[0116] - silicone derivatives, leading after polymerization to silicone polymers, such as methacryloxypropyltris(trimethylsiloxy)silane and silicone methacrylamides;

[0117] - the hydrophobic vinyl monomers of the following formula (5):

[0118] [Chem.5] H,C=CR CO I X3

[0119] in which:

[0120] - R4 is chosen from H, -CH3, -C2H5 or -C3H7;

[0121] - X3 is chosen from alkyl oxides of type -OR5 where R5 is a hy radical carbon, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0122] Examples that may be mentioned include methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, n-butyl (meth)acrylate, tert-butyl (meth)acrylate, cyclohexyl acrylate and isobutyl acrylate and 2-ethylhexyl acrylate.

[0123] AMPS copolymers may be, in particular:

[0124] i) copolymers of AMPS and acrylamide, more particularly crosslinked anionic copolymers of AMPS and acrylamide.

[0125] These copolymers may in particular be crosslinked by a compound with olefinic polyunsaturation such as those chosen from the group consisting of tetraallyloxyethane, allypentaerythritol, methylene bis-acrylamide, allyl-sucrose and pentaerythritol. Preferably, methylene bis-acrylamide is used, partially or totally neutralized by a neutralizing agent such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonia or an amine such as triethanolamine.

[0126] Preferably, said olefinically unsaturated compound is present in the copolymer at a concentration of between 0.06 and 1 millimole per mole of the monomer mixture.

[0127] The preferred copolymers are obtained by copolymerization, by radical route, of 15-85 mol% of acrylamide and 15-85 mol% of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, in particular of 30-70 mol% of acrylamide and 30-70 mol% of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, and even better of 55-70 mol% of acrylamide and 30-45 mol% of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid.

[0128] Furthermore, 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid can generally be at least partially neutralized in the form of a salt, for example by sodium hydroxide, by potassium hydroxide, or by a low molecular weight amine such as triethanolamine, or mixtures thereof.

[0129] The hydrophilic gelling agent that can be used can also be chosen from crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid.

[0130] A crosslinked copolymer particularly preferred in the context of the implementation of the present invention is in particular available under the name Sepigel 305™ sold by the company Seppic (CTFA name polyacrylamide / C13-14 isoparaffin / Laureth 7) or AQUAGEL 65 or AQUAGEL 35 (INCI name: Polyacrylamide (and) C9-11 Pareth-6) from the company TINCI MATERIALS; mention may also be made of the product Simulgel™ 600 (CTFA name acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / isohexadecane / polysorbate 80) sold by the company Seppic.

[0131] ii) copolymers derived from 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS), crosslinked or not crosslinked, comprising at least in particular one hydrophobic group comprising:

[0132] - from 80 to 99 mol% of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid unit (AMPS) of formula (6) as follows:

[0133] [Chem.6] NH —CHgS03x CHS

[0134] in which X is a proton, an alkali metal cation, an alkaline earth cation or the ammonium ion, it being understood that when X represents an alkaline earth metal cation, it shares 2 positive charges with 2 SO3 groups; and

[0135] - from 1 to 20 mol%, and preferably from 1 to 15 mol% of unit of formula (7) next:

[0136] [Chem.7] —CH.,--y--- O^CHXHJ3HCHXH(CH^ ,

[0137] in which n and p, independently of each other, denote a number of moles and vary from 0 to 30, preferably from 1 to 20 provided that n + p is less than or equal to 30, preferably less than 25 and even better less than 20; Ri denotes a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical (preferably methyl) and R3 denotes a linear or branched alkyl group comprising m carbon atoms ranging from 6 to 30, preferably from 10 to 25 carbon atoms.

[0138] These polymers are preferably neutralized partially or totally by a mineral base such as, for example, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonia, or by an organic base such as mono-, di- and triethanolamine, aminomethylpropanediol, N-methylglucamine, basic amino acids such as arginine and lysine, and mixtures thereof.

[0139] When the polymer is crosslinked, the crosslinking agents can be chosen from olefinically polyunsaturated compounds commonly used for crosslinking polymers obtained by radical polymerization.

[0140] Examples of crosslinking agents that may be mentioned are divinylbenzene, diallyl ether, dipropylene glycol diallyl ether, polyglycol diallyl ethers, triethylene glycol divinyl ether, hydroquinone diallyl ether, ethylene glycol or tetraethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate, trimethylol propane triacrylate, methylene bis acrylamide, methylene bis methacrylamide, triallylamine, triallyl cyanurate, diallyl maleate, tetraallylethylenediamine, tetraallyloxy ethane, trimethylol propane diallyl ether, allyl (meth)acrylate, allyl ethers of sugar alcohols, or other allyl or vinyl ethers of polyfunctional alcohols, as well as allyl esters. derivatives of phosphoric and / or vinylphosphonic acid, or mixtures of these compounds.

[0141] According to one embodiment, the crosslinking agent is chosen from methylene-bis-acrylamide, allyl methacrylate or trimethylol propane triacrylate (TMPTA). The crosslinking rate generally ranges from 0.01 to 10 mol% and more particularly from 0.2 to 2 mol% relative to the polymer.

[0142] As polymers derived from AMPS which can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of polymers prepared from 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) or one of its sodium or ammonium salts, with an ester of (meth)acrylic acid and an oxyethylenated C10 to C20 alcohol comprising from 6 to 25 oxyethylenated groups.

[0143] According to one embodiment, the AMPS-derived polymer is a copolymer of AMPS and C16-C18 alcohol methacrylate having from 6 to 25 oxyethylenated groups, obtained from methacrylic acid or a methacrylic acid salt and a C16-C18 alcohol oxyethylenated with 6 to 25 moles of ethylene oxide. The amphiphilic polymer may also be a copolymer of AMPS and C12-C14 alcohol methacrylate having from 6 to 25 oxyethylenated groups, obtained from methacrylic acid or a methacrylic acid salt and a C12-C14 alcohol oxyethylenated with 6 to 25 moles of ethylene oxide.

[0144] We can notably cite:

[0145] - the non-crosslinked copolymer obtained from 92.65 mol% of AMPS and 7.35 mol% of C16-C18 alcohol methacrylate containing 8 oxyethylenated groups (Genapol T-080), such as that marketed by Clariant under the name Aristoflex® SNC,

[0146] - the non-crosslinked copolymer obtained from 91.5 mol% of AMPS and 8.5% in moles of C12-C14 alcohol methacrylate containing 7 oxyethylenated groups (Genapol LA-070), such as that marketed by the company Clariant under the name Aristoflex® LNC mination, and

[0147] - their mixtures.

[0148] As crosslinked AMPS polymers of this type, mention may be made more specifically of that marketed under the name ARISTOFLEX® HMS by the company Clariant, which is a crosslinked AMPS / Ethoxylated stearyl methacrylate (25 EO) copolymer or that marketed under the name ARISTOFLEX® HMB by the company Clariant, which is a crosslinked AMPS / Ethoxylated behenyl methacrylate (25 EO) copolymer. A mixture of these polymers may also be used.

[0149] As other polymers derived from AMPS, in particular AMPS copolymers, which can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may also be made of:

[0150] - copolymers of AMPS and vinylpyrrolidone or vinylformamide such as those used in commercial products sold by Clariant under the name ARISTOFLEX® AVC (INCI: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP Copolymer), ARISTOFLEX® AVS (INCI: Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP Crosspolymer), or ARISTOFLEX® AVL from Clariant (INCI: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (and) Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP Copolymer (and) Trilaureth-4 Phosphate (and) Polyglyceryl-2-Sesquiisostearate), for example neutralized by sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide;

[0151] - copolymers of AMPS and sodium acrylate, such as for example co AMPS / sodium acrylate polymer such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name SIMULGEL™ EG (INCI name: Sodium Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer (and) Isohexadecane (and) Polysorbate 80) by the company SEPPIC or under the trade name SEPINOV™ EMT 10 by the company SEPPIC (CTFA name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer);

[0152] - copolymers of AMPS and hydroxyethyl acrylate, such as for example co AMPS / hydroxyethyl acrylate polymer such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name SIMULGEL™ NS by the company SEPPIC (INCI name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer & Squalane & Polysorbate 60) or as the commercial product sold under the name SEPINOV™ EMT 10 (INCI name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer) by the company SEPPIC; and

[0153] - copolymers of AMPS and biopolymer, such as copolymers of AMPS and polysaccharide, such as the commercial product sold under the name Aristoflex® Eco T by the company Clariant (INCI name: Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum / Ammonium AMPS Crosspolymer).

[0154] The AMPS polymers and copolymers may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of dry matter of between 0.1% and 10% by weight. weight, in particular between 0.1% and 2.5% by weight, more particularly between 0.5% and 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0155] The AMPS polymers have, for example, a molar mass ranging from 50,000 g / mol to 10,000,000 g / mol, in particular from 80,000 g / mol to 8,000,000 g / mol, more particularly from 100,000 g / mol to 7,000,000 g / mol. 3) Heterogeneous polysaccharides

[0156] According to the present invention, the term “heterogeneous polyholoside” means polymers consisting of the association of different oses or oses having the same crude chemical formula but of different geometric configuration (D and L isomers for example).

[0157] These polymers are distinguished both from polyheterosides, which are made up of one or more oses and a non-carbohydrate part, and from homogeneous polyholosides, which result from the association of the same ose.

[0158] Thus, the heterogeneous polyholoside according to the invention is made up solely of oses and results from the association of at least two different oses.

[0159] The polyholosides according to the invention may consist of 2 to 10 oses, compounds commonly called oligoholosides, or of more than 10 oses, compounds commonly called polyholosides.

[0160] The oses present in the polyholoside according to the invention can be chosen from all the oses that can be envisaged, of natural or synthetic origin, and in particular such as:

[0161] i) aldoses such as:

[0162] - pentoses: ribose, arabinose, xylose or apiose, for example,

[0163] - hexoses: glucose, fucose, mannose or galactose, for example,

[0164] ii) ketoses such as fructose,

[0165] iii) deoxyoses, such as rhamnose, digitoxose, cymarose or oleandrose,

[0166] iv) ose derivatives such as uronic acids like mannuronic acids, guluronic, galacturonic or glucuronic, or even itols such as mannitol or sorbitol.

[0167] The polyholoside according to the invention can be branched or linear. It can also be substituted, for example by fatty chains, in particular comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0168] On the other hand, the polyholoside according to the invention may be an alginate (poly man-nuronate and guluronate) such as a sodium alginate, a propylene glycol alginate, a calcium alginate, or a glyceryl alginate.

[0169] However, the heterogeneous polyholoside preferably comprises at least one fucose unit, which may be present in an amount of 10-90% by weight, preferably 15-35% by weight, relative to the weight of dry matter of polyholoside.

[0170] In particular, the polyholoside according to the invention may comprise fucose, galactose and galacturonic acid units, and, for example, may comprise a chain linear polysaccharide of aL-Fucose, a-D-Galactose and galacturonic acid. In this case, it preferably has a viscosity of 800-1200 mPa.s (Brookfield viscosity LV31, 12 rpm, at 30°C) when dissolved in water at a concentration of approximately 1% by weight. Such a polyholoside is available in particular in the form of a 1% solution in water from SOLABIA under the trade name Fucogel 1000 PP® (INCI name: Biosaccharide gum-1) or in the form of a 1.1% solution in water from SOLABIA under the trade name Fucocert (INCI name: Biosaccharide gum-1 (and) Sodium Levulinate (and) Glyceryl Caprylate (and) Sodium Anisate).

[0171] The polyholosides according to the invention are preferably introduced into the composition in the form of an aqueous solution which may comprise 0.1 to 5% by weight of polyholoside.

[0172] The polyholosides may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of dry matter ranging more particularly from 0.1 to 10%, preferably from 0.1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 4) Glyceryl acrylate polymers

[0173] These glyceryl acrylate polymers are in particular chosen from copolymers of glyceryl acrylate and acrylic acid. Such copolymers are in particular sold under the names “LUBRAJEL® MS”, “LUBRAJEL® CG”, “LUBRAJEL® DV”, “LUBRAJEL® NP”, “LUBRAJEL®L Oil”, “LUBRAJEL® Oil BG”, “LUBRAJEL® PF”, “LUBRAJEL® TW”, “LUBRAJEL® WA” by the company Guardian Laboratories or Ashland. “LUBRAJEL® MS” is preferably used.

[0174] The glyceryl acrylate polymers may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of dry matter ranging more particularly from 0.1 to 10%, preferably from 0.1 to 2%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0175] 5) Polysaccharides, in particular polysaccharides produced by microor organisms, polysaccharides isolated from algae and polysaccharides from higher plants.

[0176] The polysaccharides according to the invention can be chosen from:

[0177] - seaweed extracts, such as alginates, carrageenans, agar agars, and their mixtures. Examples of carrageenans include kappa-carrageenan, and in particular the compounds marketed under the names Satiagum UTC30® and Satiagum UTC10® from Cargill; as alginates, mention may be made of sodium alginate sold under the name Kelcosol® by ISP, under the name SOBALG PH 460 by DANISCO or under the name Flavikafine™ S by Nisshinbo Chemical;

[0178] - gums, such as xanthan gums, guar gums and their non-ionic derivatives (hydroxypropyl guar), gum arabic, konjac gum, mannan gum, Tragacanth gum, Ghatti gum, Karaya gum, carob gum, biopolysaccharide gums of microbial origin such as scleroglucan or xanthan gum; examples include guar gum marketed under the name Jaguar HP 105® by Solvay; mannan and konjac® gum (1% glucomannan) marketed by GfN; Kelco-Care™ diutan gum marketed by Lubrizol (INCI name: Sphingomonas Ferment Extract); SOLAGUM™ TARA 38553F gum marketed by SEPPIC (INCI name: Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum); KELCOGEL® CG LA gellan gum marketed by the company CP KELCO (INCI name: Gellan Gum);

[0179] - modified or unmodified starches, such as those derived, for example, from cereals such as wheat, corn or rice, vegetables such as golden peas, tubers such as potatoes or cassava, tapioca starches; dextrins, such as corn dextrins; examples include Remy DR I® rice starch (INCI name: Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch) marketed by Remy; B® corn starch marketed by Roquette (INCI name: Zea May s (Corn) Starch); DRY-FLO® AF modified corn starch marketed by AkzoNobel (Nouryon) (INCI name: Corn Starch Modified); STÀRKINA™ NATURAL potato starch marketed by AGRANA Stârke (INCI name: Solanum Tuberosum Starch); potato starch modified with 2-chloroethyl aminodipropionic acid neutralized with soda marketed under the name Structure Solanace® by the company Nouryon; native tapioca starch powder marketed under the name Tapioca pure® by the company Nouryon;StarDesign™ Power starch marketed by Cargill (INCI name: Sodium Starch Octenylsuccinate (and) Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate); dextrin extracted from corn under the name Index® from National Starch;

[0180] - pectic acids and pectins, such as pectin marketed under the name GENU pHresh™ nomination by CP Kelco (INCI name: Pectin);

[0181] - celluloses and their derivatives, in particular alkyl or hydroxyalkyl celluloses; Examples include methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses, carboxymethylcelluloses. Examples include cetyl hydroxyethylcelluloses under the names Polysurf 67CS® and Natrosol Plus 330® from Ashland; methyl hydroxyethylcelluloses under the names Tylose® MH 300 and Tylose® MH 1000 from Sigma-Aldrich (INCI: Methyl Hydroxyethylcellulose); celluloses and cellulose gums under the name mination BETAFIB ETD from the company DKSH (INCI name: Cellulose (and) Cellulose Gum); microcrystalline celluloses and cellulose gums under the names NATPURE® CELLGUM PLUS from the company SENSIENT or Avicel® PC 611 from the company DUPONT (INCI: Microcrystalline Cellulose (and) Cellulose Gum);

[0182] - fructans, glucans, amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, pullulan, dextrans, mannans, xylans, lignins, arabans, galactans, ga-lacturonans, chitin, chitosans, glucuronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, arabinogalactans, mucopolysaccharides (glycosaminoglycans) such as chondroitin sulfate;

[0183] - and mixtures thereof.

[0184] The polysaccharides may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of dry matter of between 0.01% and 2% by weight, in particular between 0.05% and 1% by weight, and even more particularly between 0.05% and 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0185] Preferably, polysaccharides chosen from gums, such as xanthan gum, and a carrageenan are used. Preferably, polysaccharides chosen from xanthan gum and a carrageenan are used.

[0186] Xanthan gums have, in particular, a molecular weight of between 1,000,000 g / mol and 50,000,000 g / mol and a viscosity of between 0.6 and 1.65 Pa.s for an aqueous composition containing 1% xanthan gum (measured at 25°C using a Brookfield viscosimeter, LVT type at 60 revolutions per minute).

[0187] Xanthan gums are represented, for example, by the products sold under the names Rhodicare by the company RHODIA CHIMIE, under the name SATIAXANE™ by the company Cargill Texturizing, under the name NOVAXAN™ by the company ADM, and under the names Kelzan® and Keltrol® by the company CP-Kelco.

[0188] 6) clays, modified or not, which may be present in a matter content active between 0.05% and 10% by weight, and preferably between 0.1% and 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0189] The composition according to the invention may comprise a mixture of the different hydrophilic gelling agents mentioned above.

[0190] Thus, according to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention may comprise a hydrophilic gelling agent chosen from: - carboxyvinyl polymers, - polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized, in particular chosen from (a) poly(2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid) polymers, more particularly homopolymers, polyAMPS, crosslinked and neutralized to at least 90%, and (b) AMPS copolymers, more particularly chosen from (i) copolymers of AMPS and acrylamide, for example crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and AMPS, (ii) copolymers derived from 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, crosslinked or not, comprising at least one hydrophobic group, (iii) copolymers of AMPS and vinylpyrrolidone or vinylformamide, (iv) copolymers of AMPS and sodium acrylate, (v) copolymers of AMPS and hydroxyethyl acrylate, and (vi) copolymers of AMPS and biopolymer; - heterogeneous polysaccharides, - glyceryl acrylate polymers, - polysaccharides, - clays, and - their mixtures.

[0191] According to another particular embodiment, the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, such as the crosslinked and neutralized homopolymer of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, notably marketed by the company Clariant under the trade name “Hostacerin® AMPS” (INCI name: Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate).

[0192] Said hydrophilic gelling agent chosen from polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid may be present in a content of between 0.1% and 10% by weight, in particular between 0.1% and 2.5% by weight, more particularly between 0.5% and 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0193] According to yet another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one hydrophilic gelling agent chosen from polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, in particular a crosslinked and neutralized homopolymer of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, and at least one additional gelling agent, in particular chosen from polysaccharides, in particular as described above, more particularly xanthan gum or a carrageenan.

[0194] It has notably been observed that in the presence of xanthan gum, the composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion according to the invention can be refined as illustrated in example 3. In other words, in this example 3, the microscopic appearance of a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion according to the invention comprising xanthan gum is advantageously finer, in comparison with a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion according to the invention not comprising xanthan gum.

[0195] Said additional gelling agent may be present in a content of between 0.01% and 2% by weight, in particular between 0.05% and 1% by weight, and even more particularly between 0.05% and 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Aqueous phase

[0196] As mentioned previously, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one physiologically acceptable aqueous phase. By "physiologically acceptable" is meant a medium compatible with keratin materials.

[0197] The composition according to the invention is an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion. The aqueous phase is the continuous phase.

[0198] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises an aqueous phase comprising water and optionally one or more polyol(s). This(these) polyol(s) may advantageously be chosen, for example, from polyols having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, diglycerol, propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, pentylene glycol, polyethylene glycols having from 2 to 200 ethylene oxide units and mixtures thereof.

[0199] According to a particular embodiment, the aqueous phase comprises water and at least one polyol having in particular from 2 to 20 carbon atoms.

[0200] According to a particular embodiment, the aqueous phase comprises at least one alkanol. By "alkanol" is meant linear or branched C2-C4 alkanols, such as ethanol (otherwise referred to as denatured alcohol in the examples which follow), isopropanol, propanol or butanol.

[0201] According to one embodiment, the aqueous phase is present in a content of between 65% and 95% by weight, preferably between 70% and 92% by weight, and more preferably between 74% and 82% or 88% and 92% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0202] The quantity of polyols may range, for example, from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1 to 18% by weight, better still from 5% to 16% by weight, better still from 8 to 16% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Fat phase

[0203] As mentioned previously, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one fatty phase. Said fatty phase may contain at least one cosmetic oil. It may also contain at least one other fatty substance.

[0204] By “oil” is meant a non-aqueous compound, liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa), immiscible with water.

[0205] By "immiscible" is meant that the mixture of the same quantity of water and oil, after stirring, does not lead to a stable solution comprising only one phase, under the aforementioned temperature and pressure conditions. The observation is made at the eye or by means of a phase contrast microscope if necessary, on 100g of mixture obtained after sufficient Rayneri agitation to cause a vortex to appear within the mixture (as an indication 200 to 1000 rpm); the resulting mixture being left to stand, in a closed bottle, for 24 hours at room temperature before observation.

[0206] As oils which can be used in the composition of the invention, we can cite for example:

[0207] - hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as liquid triglycerides fatty acids containing 4 to 10 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, castor, avocado oils, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, shea butter oil;

[0208] - synthetic esters and ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as oils of formulas R1COOR2 and R1OR2 in which RI represents the residue of a fatty acid containing from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or not, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as for example Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanoate (which is a mixture of C16 and C18 alkyl esters with isononanoic acid), isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearylmalate, triisocetyl citrate, fatty alcohol heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate;and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate or dipentaerythrityl pentaisononanoate; ;

[0209] - linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral, vegetable or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, alkanes containing from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 20 carbon atoms, such as in particular C15-19 alkanes such as those marketed by Seppic under the name Emogreen L19, branched-chain hydrocarbon oils containing from 10 to 30 carbon atoms such as isohexadecane, isododecane, isoparaffins and their mixtures, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, polyisobutenes, squalane, hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as, for example, Parléam® marketed by the company NIPPON OIL FATS, PANALANE H-300 E marketed by the company AMOCO, VISEAL 20000 marketed by the company SYNTEAL, REWOPAL PIB 1000 marketed by WITCO, or PARLEAM LITE marketed by NOF Corporation. Among the preferred linear or branched hydrocarbons of synthetic origin, we can cite squalane, which is an oil resulting from the hydrogenation of squalene; or

[0210] - their mixtures.

[0211] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one oil chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral, vegetable or synthetic origin, preferably chosen from alkanes comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 20 carbon atoms, such as in particular C15-19 alkanes.

[0212] The amount of oil in the composition may range, for example, from 0.1% to 15%, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0213] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is substantially free of silicone. By "silicone" is meant in particular silicone oils such as volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, pendant or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenylated silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxy-diphenyl-siloxanes, diphenyl-dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyl tri-siloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethyl-siloxysilicates, or polymethylphenyl-siloxanes.

[0214] The composition comprises less than 2% by weight of silicone oil(s). According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 1.0% by weight of silicone oil(s), preferably less than 0.5% by weight of silicone oil(s), relative to the total weight of the composition, and more preferably being free of silicone oil(s).

[0215] According to one embodiment, the fatty phase is present in a content of between 5% and 35% by weight, in particular between 8% and 30%, even more particularly between 8% and 12% or between 16% and 28% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Acylamino acid

[0216] The composition according to the invention may also comprise an acylamino acid.

[0217] As acylamino acids, mention may be made, for example, of sodium cocoylglycinate marketed by the company Ajinomoto under the name Amilite® GCS-12, potassium cocoylglycinate marketed by the company Ajinomoto under the names Amilite® GCK-12K (INCI name: Potassium Cocoyl Glycinate) and Amilite® GCK-12H (INCI name: Potassium Cocoyl Glycinate (and) Potassium Cocoate), disodium cocoyl glutamate marketed by Ajinomoto under the name Amisoft® ECS-22SB, sodium lauroyl glutamate marketed by Ajinomoto under the name Amisoft® LS 11, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate marketed by Seppic under the name ORAMIX™ L 30, sodium stearoyl glutamate and disodium stearoyl glutamate marketed by Ajinomoto under the names Amisoft® HS 11 PF and HS-21P, and sodium cocoyl sarcosinate marketed by ZSCHIMMER & SCHWARZ under the name Protelan LS 9011 / C.

[0218] Mention may also be made of the sodium salt of oat lauroyl amino acids such as Proteol™ OAT and Proteol™ OAT PF marketed by the company Seppic or the compound bearing the INCI name Sodium Cocoyl Apple Aminoacids such as Proteol™ APL from the company Seppic.

[0219] The amino acid derivatives may be chosen, for example, from sarcosinates and in particular acylsarcosinates such as sodium lauroyl sarcosinate marketed, for example, under the name SARKOSYL NL 97® by the company Ciba, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate, marketed under the name NIKKOL SARCOSINATE MN® by the company Nikkol, sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, marketed under the name NIKKOL SARCOSINATE PN® by the company Nikkol; alaninates such as sodium N-lauroyl-N-methylaminopropionate, marketed under the name NIKKOL ALANINATE LN 30® by the company Nikkol and N-lauroyl N-methyl alanine triethanolamine, marketed under the name ALANONE ALTA® by the company Kawaken; aspartates such as the mixture of triethanolamine N-lauroylaspartate and triethanolamine N-myristoylaspartate, marketed under the name ASPARACK LM-TS2 ® by the company Mitsubishi; citrates.

[0220] Mention may also be made of alkali metal salts of acyl (C10-C22) glutamic acids, preferably an alkali metal salt of acyl (C12-C20) glutamic acids, and for example an alkali metal salt of acyl (C16-C10) glutamic acids. The alkali metal salts are, for example, sodium salts, potassium salts and lithium salts, and preferably sodium salts. It may in particular be one of the alkali metal salts of stearoyl glutamic acid, lauroyl glutamic acid, acyl C16 glutamic acid, myristoyl glutamic acid, cocoyl glutamic acid or hydrogenated tallow acyl glutamic acid.

[0221] Preferably, the acylamino acid is selected from sodium stearoyl glutamate, disodium (disodium) stearoyl glutamate, potassium stearoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, disodium (disodium) lauroyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, hydrogenated tallow acyl sodium glutamate, and mixtures thereof, and preferably sodium stearoyl glutamate.

[0222] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the acylamino acid is sodium stearoyl glutamate marketed by the company Ajinomoto under the reference AMISOFT® HS 11 PF.

[0223] It has notably been observed that in the presence of an acylamino acid such as sodium stearoyl glutamate, the composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion according to the invention has a finer microscopic appearance, corresponding to a fine emulsion, and maintained over time, as well as a more limited color evolution over time at a temperature above room temperature, as illustrated in Example 4.

[0224] By way of illustration, we can also, for example, cite disodium stearoyl glutamate marketed by the company Ajinomoto under the reference AMISOFT® HS 21 P.

[0225] Preferably, the acylamino acid is present in concentrations of between 0.01% and 15% by weight, preferably between 0.1% and 3% by weight, and more preferably between 0.2% and 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Additives

[0226] A composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one additive, in particular chosen from the additives detailed below.

[0227] Of course, the additive(s) possibly present in a composition according to the invention are chosen so as not to alter the properties of the composition, in particular in terms of stability, but also sensory properties.

[0228] Preferably, the additives suitable for the present invention are natural or of natural origin. Assets

[0229] Advantageously, a composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one cosmetic active ingredient.

[0230] As cosmetic active ingredients, mention may be made, for example, of moisturizing agents, depigmenting agents, desquamating agents, humectants, anti-aging agents, mattifying agents, healing agents, anti-bacterial agents, vitamins and their derivatives, antioxidant compounds, sunscreens, and mixtures thereof.

[0231] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one anti-aging active ingredient.

[0232] In particular, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one cosmetic active agent chosen from hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives having a molecular weight of less than 50,000 Da, in particular sodium hyaluronate having a molecular weight of less than 50,000 Da. Hyaluronic acid

[0233] In the context of the present invention, the term “hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives” covers in particular the basic unit of hyaluronic acid of the following formula (8):

[0234] [Chem. 8]

[0235] This is the smallest fraction of hyaluronic acid comprising a disaccharide dimer, namely D-glucuronic acid and N-acetyl glucosamine.

[0236] The term "hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives having a molecular weight of less than 50,000 daltons" includes, within the scope of the present invention, the linear polymer comprising the polymeric unit described above, in a sequence by alternating glycosidic bonds [3(1,4) and [3(1,3), having a low molecular weight (MW) which can vary between 380 and 50,000 daltons. This molecular weight depends largely on the source of obtaining the hyaluronic acid and / or the preparation methods.

[0237] The term “hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives” also includes, within the scope of the present invention, the salts of hyaluronic acid and in particular the alkaline salts such as the sodium salt and the potassium salt, in particular sodium hyaluronate.

[0238] In its natural state, hyaluronic acid is present in pericellular gels, in the basic substance of connective tissues of vertebrate organs such as the dermis and epithelial tissues and in particular in the epidermis, in joint synovial fluid, in the vitreous humor, in the human umbilical cord and in the cristagalli apophysis.

[0239] Thus, the term “hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives” includes all the fractions or subunits of hyaluronic acid having a molecular weight in particular included in the molecular weight range recalled above.

[0240] As an illustration of the different fractions of hyaluronic acid, reference may be made to the document “Hyaluronan fragments: an information-rich System”, R.Stem et al, European Journal of Cell Biology 58 (2006) 699-715, which reviews the listed biological activities of hyaluronic acid as a function of its molecular weight.

[0241] Finally, the term “hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives” also includes esters of hyaluronic acid, in particular those in which all or part of the carboxylic groups of the acid functions are esterified with alcohols or oxyethylene alkyls, comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular with a level of sub substitution at the level of D-glucuronic acid of hyaluronic acid varying from 0.5 to 50%.

[0242] Mention may in particular be made of methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, n-pentyl, benzyl and dodecyl esters of hyaluronic acid. Such esters have in particular been described in D. Campoccia et al. “Semisynthetic resorbable materials from hyaluronan esterification”, Biomaterials 19 (1998) 2101-2127.

[0243] The molecular weights indicated above are also valid for hyaluronic acid esters.

[0244] Hyaluronic acid can in particular be supplied by the company Contipro under the trade name HyActive (PM: 10 to 150 kDa), by the company Soliance (Givaudan) under the name RENOVHYAL LO (50 kDa), by the company Bloomage BioTechnology under the name Hybloom™ Low Molecular Weight Sodium Hyaluronate (HA-TLM), by the company Bioland under the name Oligo HA (PM: 6100 Da) or by the company Vam Farmacos Metica under the name D Factor (PM: 380 Da).

[0245] In one embodiment, sodium hyaluronate having a molecular weight of less than 50,000 Da is used.

[0246] In particular, hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives is present in the composition according to the present invention in a content of between 0.05% and 10% by weight, preferably between 0.5% and 3.0% by weight, more preferably between 0.01% and 0.5%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0247] In a particular embodiment, the composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, in particular cosmetic, in particular for makeup and / or care of keratin materials, comprises:

[0248] - at least one fatty phase,

[0249] - at least one emulsifier comprising at least one phospholipid,

[0250] - at least one hydrophilic gelling agent comprising at least one polymer or co 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS) polymer, optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized, and

[0251] - at least one acylamino acid,

[0252] characterized in that the composition comprises less than 2.0% by weight of silicone oil, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0253] In another particular embodiment, the composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, in particular cosmetic, in particular for makeup and / or care of keratin materials, comprises:

[0254] - at least one fatty phase,

[0255] - at least one emulsifier comprising at least one phospholipid,

[0256] - at least two hydrophilic gelling agents,

[0257] characterized in that the composition comprises less than 2.0% by weight of oil silicone, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0258] In another particular embodiment, the composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, in particular cosmetic, in particular for makeup and / or care of keratin materials, comprises:

[0259] - at least one fatty phase,

[0260] - at least one emulsifier comprising at least one phospholipid, preferably comprising at least hydrogenated lecithin,

[0261] - at least one hydrophilic gelling agent comprising at least one polymer or co 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS) polymer, optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized, preferably comprising at least one crosslinked and neutralized homopolymer of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid and

[0262] - at least one additional hydrophilic gelling agent, preferably comprising at least at least one polysaccharide, even more preferably comprising at least xanthan gum,

[0263] characterized in that the composition comprises less than 2.0% by weight of silicone oil, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0264] In another particular embodiment, the composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, in particular cosmetic, in particular for makeup and / or care of keratin materials, comprises:

[0265] - at least one fatty phase,

[0266] - at least one emulsifier comprising at least one phospholipid,

[0267] - at least one hydrophilic gelling agent comprising at least one polymer or co 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS) polymer, optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized, and

[0268] - at least one additional hydrophilic gelling agent,

[0269] characterized in that the composition comprises less than 2.0% by weight of silicone oil, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0270] In another particular embodiment, the composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, in particular cosmetic, in particular for makeup and / or care of keratin materials, comprises:

[0271] - at least one fatty phase,

[0272] - at least one emulsifier comprising at least one phospholipid,

[0273] - at least one hydrophilic gelling agent comprising at least one polymer or co 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS) polymer, optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized, and

[0274] - at least one additional hydrophilic gelling agent comprising at least one poly saccharide,

[0275] characterized in that the composition comprises less than 2.0% by weight of oil silicone, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0276] In another particular embodiment, the composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, in particular cosmetic, in particular for makeup and / or care of keratin materials, comprises:

[0277] - at least one fatty phase,

[0278] - at least one emulsifier comprising at least one phospholipid,

[0279] - at least one hydrophilic gelling agent comprising at least one polymer or co 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS) polymer, optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized,

[0280] - at least one additional hydrophilic gelling agent,

[0281] - at least one acylamino acid, and

[0282] characterized in that the composition comprises less than 2.0% by weight of silicone oil, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0283] In another particular embodiment, the composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, in particular cosmetic, in particular for makeup and / or care of keratin materials, comprises:

[0284] - at least one fatty phase,

[0285] - at least one emulsifier comprising at least one phospholipid,

[0286] - at least one hydrophilic gelling agent comprising at least one polymer or co 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS) polymer, optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized,

[0287] - at least one additional hydrophilic gelling agent comprising at least one poly saccharide,

[0288] - at least one acylamino acid, and

[0289] characterized in that the composition comprises less than 2.0% by weight of silicone oil, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0290] In another particular embodiment, the composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, in particular cosmetic, in particular for makeup and / or care of keratin materials, comprises:

[0291] - at least one fatty phase,

[0292] - at least one emulsifier comprising at least one phospholipid,

[0293] - at least one hydrophilic gelling agent comprising at least one homopolymer crosslinked and neutralized 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, and

[0294] - at least one acylamino acid comprising at least sodium stearoyl glutamate,

[0295] characterized in that the composition comprises less than 2.0% by weight of silicone oil, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0296] In another particular embodiment, the composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, in particular cosmetic, in particular makeup and / or care of keratin materials, includes:

[0297] - at least one fatty phase,

[0298] - at least one emulsifier comprising at least one phospholipid,

[0299] - at least one hydrophilic gelling agent comprising at least one homopolymer crosslinked and neutralized 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, and

[0300] - at least one additional hydrophilic gelling agent,

[0301] characterized in that the composition comprises less than 2.0% by weight of silicone oil, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0302] In another particular embodiment, the composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, in particular cosmetic, in particular for makeup and / or care of keratin materials, comprises:

[0303] - at least one fatty phase,

[0304] - at least one emulsifier comprising at least one phospholipid,

[0305] - at least one hydrophilic gelling agent comprising at least one homopolymer crosslinked and neutralized 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, and

[0306] - at least one additional hydrophilic gelling agent comprising at least gum of xanthan,

[0307] characterized in that the composition comprises less than 2.0% by weight of silicone oil, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0308] In another particular embodiment, the composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, in particular cosmetic, in particular for makeup and / or care of keratin materials, comprises:

[0309] - at least one fatty phase,

[0310] - at least one emulsifier comprising at least one phospholipid,

[0311] - at least one hydrophilic gelling agent comprising at least one homopolymer crosslinked and neutralized 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid,

[0312] - at least one additional hydrophilic gelling agent,

[0313] - at least one acylamino acid comprising at least sodium stearoyl glutamate, And

[0314] characterized in that the composition comprises less than 2.0% by weight of silicone oil, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0315] In another particular embodiment, the composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, in particular cosmetic, in particular for makeup and / or care of keratin materials, comprises:

[0316] - at least one fatty phase,

[0317] - at least one emulsifier comprising at least one phospholipid,

[0318] - at least one hydrophilic gelling agent comprising at least one homopolymer crosslinked and neutralized 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid,

[0319] - at least one additional hydrophilic gelling agent comprising at least gum of xanthan,

[0320] - at least one acylamino acid comprising at least sodium stearoyl glutamate, And

[0321] characterized in that the composition comprises less than 2.0% by weight of silicone oil, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0322] In another particular embodiment, the composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, in particular cosmetic, in particular for makeup and / or care of keratin materials, comprises:

[0323] - at least one fatty phase,

[0324] - at least one emulsifier comprising at least hydrogenated lecithin,

[0325] - at least one hydrophilic gelling agent comprising at least one homopolymer crosslinked and neutralized 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, and

[0326] - at least one acylamino acid comprising at least sodium stearoyl glutamate,

[0327] characterized in that the composition comprises less than 2.0% by weight of silicone oil, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0328] In another particular embodiment, the composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, in particular cosmetic, in particular for makeup and / or care of keratin materials, comprises:

[0329] - at least one fatty phase,

[0330] - at least one emulsifier comprising at least hydrogenated lecithin,

[0331] - at least one hydrophilic gelling agent comprising at least one homopolymer crosslinked and neutralized 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, and

[0332] - at least one additional hydrophilic gelling agent,

[0333] characterized in that the composition comprises less than 2.0% by weight of silicone oil, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0334] In another particular embodiment, the composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, in particular cosmetic, in particular for makeup and / or care of keratin materials, comprises:

[0335] - at least one fatty phase,

[0336] - at least one emulsifier comprising at least hydrogenated lecithin,

[0337] - at least one hydrophilic gelling agent comprising at least one homopolymer crosslinked and neutralized 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, and

[0338] - at least one additional hydrophilic gelling agent, preferably comprising at least at least one polysaccharide, more preferably comprising at least xanthan gum,

[0339] characterized in that the composition comprises less than 2.0% by weight of silicone oil, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0340] In another particular embodiment, the composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, in particular cosmetic, in particular for makeup and / or care of keratin materials, comprises:

[0341] - at least one fatty phase,

[0342] - at least one emulsifier comprising at least hydrogenated lecithin,

[0343] - at least one hydrophilic gelling agent comprising at least one homopolymer crosslinked and neutralized 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, and

[0344] - at least one additional hydrophilic gelling agent comprising at least gum of xanthan,

[0345] characterized in that the composition comprises less than 2.0% by weight of silicone oil, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0346] In another particular embodiment, the composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, in particular cosmetic, in particular for makeup and / or care of keratin materials, comprises:

[0347] - at least one fatty phase,

[0348] - at least one emulsifier comprising at least hydrogenated lecithin,

[0349] - at least one hydrophilic gelling agent comprising at least one homopolymer crosslinked and neutralized 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid,

[0350] - at least one additional hydrophilic gelling agent, and

[0351] - at least one acylamino acid comprising at least sodium stearoyl glutamate,

[0352] characterized in that the composition comprises less than 2.0% by weight of silicone oil, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0353] In another particular embodiment, the composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, in particular cosmetic, in particular for makeup and / or care of keratin materials, comprises:

[0354] - at least one fatty phase,

[0355] - at least one emulsifier comprising at least hydrogenated lecithin,

[0356] - at least one hydrophilic gelling agent comprising at least one homopolymer crosslinked and neutralized 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid,

[0357] - at least one additional hydrophilic gelling agent comprising at least gum of xanthan, and

[0358] - at least one acylamino acid comprising at least sodium stearoyl glutamate,

[0359] characterized in that the composition comprises less than 2.0% by weight of silicone oil, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0360] Concrete, but in no way limiting, examples illustrating the invention will now be given.

[0361] In the examples, the temperature is ambient (20°C) and expressed in degrees Celsius unless otherwise indicated, and the pressure is atmospheric pressure, unless otherwise indicated. contrary indication.

[0362] In the examples, the quantities of the ingredients of the compositions are “expressed as % of raw material”, more precisely as % by weight of raw material relative to the total weight of the composition. Examples MATERIALS AND METHODS Stability measurement

[0363] The stability of the compositions was evaluated according to the following protocol:

[0364] 1) The following first checks are carried out on a composition to be tested minimum 16 hours after manufacturing:

[0365] - organoleptic controls (appearance, color, odor);

[0366] - a pH measurement (at 25°C): measurement taken using a pH meter;

[0367] - a viscosity measurement (at 25°C): measurement taken using a viscometer, by example Rheomat RM 100 PLUS from Lamy Rheology (equipped with a thermostatic bath), notation of values ​​at 30 seconds and 10 minutes;

[0368] - centrifugation carried out for 1 hour at 900g followed by a check of the absence of signs of destabilization (such as release, sedimentation, creaming, etc.); and

[0369] - a microscopic observation of a sample of the crushed composition between a slide and a coverslip in unpolarized light and in polarized light, with a magnification of xlOO (times 100), the characterization of the observation being carried out in particular by the evaluation of the fineness of the emulsion, the mesh of the center, the regularity of the emulsion, the edges, the anisotropy or isotropy.

[0370] 2) The composition to be tested is then stored for 2 months at different temperatures. temperatures, in particular at 4°C, at room temperature noted TA, at 37°C and at 45°C. The temperature can be regulated, for example, using an oven, in particular for a temperature equal to 37°C or 45°C, for example of the Bio concept brand from Firlabo, or a refrigerator, in particular for a temperature equal to 4°C.

[0371] 3) Checks are carried out after 1 month and 2 months of storage under the conditions described above. In particular, the checks carried out are as follows:

[0372] - macroscopic appearance: control of the visual appearance and texture, in particular the consistency; and verification of the absence of signs of instability, for example, caking or softening, appearance of grains, release, creaming, coalescence, formation of a film, visualization of marbling, exudate;

[0373] - color: evaluation of the potential color evolution of the samples by compared to the 4°C sample called the “control” sample;

[0374] - odor: evaluation of the potential evolution of odor of the samples compared to the 4°C sample called the “control” sample;

[0375] - the microscopic aspect: evaluation of the potential evolution of the micro aspect scopic in unpolarized light and polarized light (magnification xlOO);

[0376] - pH, only for samples at 2 months at RT and at 2 months at 45°C; and

[0377] - viscosity, only for samples only at 2 months at RT and at 2 months at 45°C.

[0378] The closer the controls of the composition after 1 month and / or 2 months of storage are to the controls carried out at a time greater than 16 hours from manufacture, the more the composition can be considered to remain stable. In particular, if the composition remains smooth and homogeneous, without release or phase separation, with an acceptable evolution of color, odor, viscosity, pH and microscopic appearance, then it is the composition considered to be stable. Protocol for preparing the compositions

[0379] The compositions of Examples 1 to 4 are prepared according to the following protocol:

[0380] The ingredients of phase A are mixed and heated to 70°C;

[0381] The ingredients of phase C are mixed and heated to 75°C;

[0382] Ingredient B is added to phase A and the pellets are left to melt for 5 min under moderate agitation with paddles;

[0383] Meanwhile, ingredient D is added to phase C and the temperature of mixture C+D is maintained at 70°C;

[0384] Then, the mixture C+D is added to the mixture A+B, the temperatures of the phases being identical and equal to 70°C, and it is left for 5 min under moderate stirring with paddles;

[0385] The emulsion is then formed under rotor stator for 10 min then cooled under moderate stirring with blades;

[0386] At a temperature < 30°C, ingredients E are added, then, if necessary, F then G under rotor stator, with 5 min of stirring after each addition. Example 1

[0387] The compositions F1 and F2 according to the invention are obtained according to the preparation protocol described previously and are detailed in Table 1 below. Phase Ingredient (expanded in % of raw material) Commercial reference FI F2 A WATER QS QS GLYCERIN GLICENATGCKMB (OXITENO) 10JQ 10.00 A HYDROPHILIC ACTIVES 1.33 - A SOLVENT (pcar active) 0.25 - A COLORS 0.001 - A CHELATING 0.15 0.13 PRESERVATIVE. 0.20 - ADJUSTERS pK Qsp pH 5.3 Qsp pH 53 B C12-16 ALCOHOLS (and) PALMITIC ACID (and) HYDROGENATED LEOTHIN' MOPmiC^HMB (LUCAS MEYER ' COSMETICS) 3^0 2,,50 C BEHENYL ALCOHOL* LANETTE 22 (BASF) 2.00 1.5Ü ANIONIC TENSKMCTÏF* - i,oo tœ EMOLLIENTS* - 14.00 PRESERVATIVES 0:3C w AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE HOSTACERIN AMPS® (CLARIANT) MO 1.00 XANTHAN GUM RELIROL CG (CPKELCÜ) aie 0.10 SODIUM HYALURONATE RENOVHYALLO (SOLIANCE) 0.10 - D SHEA BUTTER (BUTYROSPERMUM PARKEéSHEA) BUW LIPEX W2 (AARHŒKARLSHAMN) 5.00 4.00 0 AÿHTQXYDÀNT 0.23 0.10 E. LIPOPHILIC ACTIVE ACTIVE ACTIVE - 1.00 E perfume 0^0 - F ALCOHOL DENAT. EIHYL ALCOHOL 99D (AROMAHQLLY LIMITED) 4.80 - * Ingredients constituting the fatty phase

[0389] The technical effects relating to sensoriality and the effect on the skin were demonstrated via consumer tests for these compositions F1 and F2 according to the invention as set out in example 5 below. Example 2

[0390] Composition F3 according to the invention is obtained according to the preparation protocol described previously and is detailed in Table 2 below. Phase Ingredient (expressed as % of raw material) Commercial reference FS A WATER QS GLYCERIN. GALICENAT GC K MB (OXITENO) 15.00 HYDROPHILIC ACTIVE AGENTS 4.40 CHELATING AGENT 0.15 PRESERVATIVE 0.20 pH ADJUSTERS pH 5.3 B CI2-1« ALCOHOLS (and) PALMITIC ACID (and) HYDROGENATED LECITHIN* BIOPHILIC™ H MB (LUCAS MEYER COSMETICS) 3.50 c BEHENYL ALCOHOL* LAVETTE 22 (BASF) 2.00 ANIONIC SURFACTANT* - 1.00 EMOLLIENT* 10.50 PRESERVATIVE 0.30 AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE HOSTACERIN AMPS^ (CLARIANT) 1.09 XANTHAN GUM KELTROL CG (CPKELCO) 0.10 SODIUM HYALURONATE RENO VH Y AL LO (SOLIÀNCE) 0.10 D BUTTER. SHEA (BUTYROSPERMUM P ARKIIf SHE A) BUTTER}* LIPEX 102 (AARHUSKARLSHAMN) 8.00 ANTIOXIDANT 0.10 E ALCOHOL DENAT. ETHYL ALCOHOL 99D (AROMA HOLLY LIMITED) 4.80 * Mgrêdiests cosstituaat the fatty phase

[0392] Results: After measuring the stability according to the protocol described previously, the control of the macroscopic appearance of composition F3 is compliant, in particular no signs of instability are perceptible whatever the storage conditions at 4°C, RT, 37°C and 45°C.

[0393] Conclusion: Composition F3 comprising the combination of ammonium polyacryldimethyltaurate, xanthan gum and hydrogenated lecithin exhibits good stability. Example 3

[0394] A comparison is made between two compositions (F5 and F6) according to the invention, one comprising xanthan gum as an additional gelling agent (composition F5) and the other not comprising it (composition F6). These two compositions are obtained according to the preparation protocol described previously and are detailed in Table 3 below. Phase Ingredient (expressed as a % of raw material) Reference comitierdak E5 Fë A si Au QS QS GLYCERIN GLICENAT GC K MB (GXHENO) 15.09 15.00 HYDROPHILIC ACTIVE INGREDIENTS 4.40 4.4û CHELATING AGENT 0.45 0.35 PRESERVATIVE 0.2:J 0 2C ADJUSTERS pH Qsp pH5.3 Q^p pH 5.3 B. C12-16 ALCOHOLS (and) PALMITIC ACID (and) HYDROGENATED LECITHIN* BIOPHILIC™HMB (LUCAS MEYER COSMETICS) 3.5S 3.50 C BEHENYL ALCOHOL* LANETTE 22. (BASF) 2.00 2.00 ANIONIC SURFACTANT* 1,®) 1.00 EMOLLIENT* 16.50 16.50 PRESERVATIVE* 0.30 0.30 AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAERATE HO STACERIN AMPS ® (CLARIANT) 1.00 XANTHAN GUM KELTROL CG (CP KELCO) 0.18 - SODIUM HYALURONATE RENOVHYALLO (SOLIANCE) 0.50 0.50 D SHEA BUTTER (BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII(SHEA) BUTTER)* LIPEX 102 (AARHUSKARLSHAMN) 8.® 8.00 ANTIOXIDANT 0.10 0.10 E ALCOHOL DENAT. ETHYL ALÇOHOL 99D (ARÔMA HOLLY LIMITED) 4.80 4.S0 * Ingredients omsütuast the fatty phase Results :

[0396] Observation under a microscope, particularly at 100 magnification and in unpolarized light, shows that composition F5 appears finer and more regular than composition F6. In particular, the size of the globules observed under the microscope is less than 5 mm for composition F5 while the size of the globules observed under the microscope is greater than 5 mm for composition F6.

[0397] Conclusion: A composition further comprising an additional gelling agent, such as xanthan gum, has a finer and more regular microscopic appearance than a composition devoid of this additional gelling agent, which may present an interesting additional advantage, for example in terms of stability. In particular, a finer and more regular microscopic appearance of a composition may be associated with more interesting long-term stability, in particular more robust stability over time. Example 4

[0398] A comparison is made between two compositions (F7 and F8) according to the invention, one comprising sodium stearoyl glutamate as acylamino acid (composition F7) and the other being devoid of sodium stearoyl glutamate (composition F8). These two compositions are obtained according to the preparation protocol described previously and are detailed in Table 4 below. Phase Ingredient (expressed as % of the first product) Reference eammerdale F7 FS A EAU QS QS GLYCÉRINE GL1CENATGCKMB (OXITENO) WQ 1W: ACTIFS HYDROPHILES 4,40 4,40 CHELATANT & 15 M5 CONSERVATEUR a2o 0,20 .AJUSTEURS pH Qsp pH 5,3 Qsp pH 5,3 B C12-M ALCOHOLS (et) ACIDE PALMITIQUE (et) LÉCITHINE HYDROGÉNÉE* BIOPHHJC™HMB (LUCAS MEYER COSMETICS) 3-3» 3,50 c ALCOHOL BÉHÊNYLIQUE* LANETTE.22{BASF) 3.&Û W TENSIOACTTF ANIONIQUE* L5Û LÛÜ STÉAROYL GLUTAMATE DE SODIUM AWSOFI HS 11 PF (AUNOMOTO) - EMOLLIENT* 16,50 15,50 CONSERVATEUR 3,30 OJÜ AMMONIUM POLYAŒY'LOYLDIMErHYL TAURATE HOSTACERIN AMES® (CLARLANT) LOS 1.00 GOMME DEXANTHANE KELTROLCG (CPKELCQ) or 0.10 HYALURONÀTE DE SODIUM RENOVHYALLO (SOLIANCE) 9.10 i VD BEURRE DE KARITÉ (BÙTYROSP'ERâ.'IUM PARKIKSHEA BUTTER)* LIPEX I.S2 (AARHUSKARLSHAMN) SsG6 8.00 ANTIOXYDANT AiO 0.10 £ CHARGE w 1.00 p PARFUM $3$ - G ALCOHOL DENAT. ETHYL ALCOHOL 99D (AROMAHOLLV LIMITED) 4.80 4.80 * Bgrêdaests cco&itBatâla phase gjasae Results:

[0400] When measuring the stability of compositions F7 and F8, a difference in color evolution between the two compositions is observed, which is more marked after 2 months at 45°C. In particular, after 2 months at 45°C, composition F8 comprising sodium stearoyl glutamate undergoes a less marked color evolution, compared to composition F7 without sodium stearoyl glutamate.

[0401] Furthermore, with respect to the microscopic appearance, composition F8 comprising sodium stearoyl glutamate is a finer oil-in-water emulsion compared to composition F7 devoid of sodium stearoyl glutamate. Furthermore, the microscopic appearance of composition F8 comprising sodium stearoyl glutamate does not change after 2 months at 45°C.

[0402] Conclusion: a composition further comprising an acylamino acid, such as sodium stearoyl glutamate, exhibits limited color change after 2 months at 45°C and corresponds to a finer emulsion, in comparison with a composition devoid of this acylamino acid, which may present an interesting additional advantage, in particular with regard to stability. Example 5 - Consumer tests

[0403] The technical effects relating to sensoriality and the effect on the skin have been highlighted via consumer tests.

[0404] For example, composition Fl of example 1 was evaluated in the anti-aging axis by 120 targeted consumers after 4 weeks of use, replacing their usual product. The consumers are women aged 50 to 70 and regular users of an anti-aging day cream.

[0405] The results obtained show that the composition Fl according to the invention has the following advantages:

[0406] - it has a pleasant texture;

[0407] - it leaves an instant feeling of freshness on the skin;

[0408] - it immediately nourishes the skin and gives it a feeling of comfort and hydration that lasts all day long, without a greasy effect;

[0409] - it lets the skin breathe; and

[0410] - is gentle and beneficial to the skin.

[0411] In addition, composition F2 of Example 1 was evaluated in the hydration axis by 180 targeted consumers after 2 weeks of use, replacing their usual product. The consumers are women aged 25 to 75 years old with normal to very dry skin, with signs of dryness, in particular rough, scaly, tight, itchy, irritated or reactive skin, and are users Regular use of a moisturizing day cream.

[0412] The results obtained show that composition F2 according to the invention has the following advantages:

[0413] - it has a pleasant texture, which spreads well on the skin, with a good speed of penetration;

[0414] - it lets the skin breathe, makes it more supple, softer and smoother to the touch;

[0415] - it immediately gives the skin a feeling of comfort and hydration, which lasts all day long;

[0416] - it prevents signs of dryness throughout the day; and

[0417] - it improves the quality of the skin and gives it radiance.

Claims

Claims

1. Composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, in particular cosmetic, in particular for makeup and / or care of keratin materials, comprising: - at least one fatty phase, - at least one emulsifier comprising at least one phospholipid, and - at least one hydrophilic gelling agent, characterized in that the composition comprises less than 2.0% by weight of silicone oil, relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the phospholipid is chosen from: - natural phospholipids, in particular egg or soy lecithin, or sphingomyelin, - chemically or enzymatically modified phospholipids, in particular hydrogenated lecithin, and - synthetic phospholipids, in particular dipalmitoylphosphati-dylcholine, in particular hydrogenated lecithin.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the phospholipid is present in an amount of between 0.01% and 3% by weight, more preferably between 0.05% and 2% by weight, and better still between 0.1% and 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the phospholipid is present in a mixture with fatty alcohols such as alcohols having from 12 to 16 carbon atoms, and / or with a fatty acid such as palmitic acid.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from: - carboxyvinyl polymers; - polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized, in particular chosen from (a) poly(2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid) polymers, more particularly homopolymers, polyAMPS, crosslinked and neutralized to at least 90%, and (b) copolymers of AMPS, more particularly chosen from (i) copolymers of AMPS and acrylamide, for example crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and AMPS, (ii) copolymers crosslinked or non-crosslinked 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid derivatives comprising at least one hydrophobic group, (iii) copolymers of AMPS and vinylpyrrolidone or vinylformamide, (iv) copolymers of AMPS and sodium acrylate, (v) copolymers of AMPS and hydroxyethyl acrylate, and (vi) copolymers of AMPS and biopolymer; - heterogeneous polysaccharides; - glyceryl acrylate polymers; - polysaccharides; - clays; and - mixtures thereof.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, such as the crosslinked and neutralized homopolymer of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, which may be present in a content of between 0.1% and 10% by weight, in particular between 0.1% and 2.5% by weight, more particularly between 0.5% and 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one hydrophilic gelling agent chosen from polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, in particular a crosslinked and neutralized homopolymer of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, and at least one additional gelling agent chosen from polysaccharides, in particular xanthan gum or a carrageenan, said additional gelling agent being even more particularly present in a content of between 0.01% and 2% by weight, in particular between 0.05% and 1% by weight, and even more particularly between 0.05% and 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty phase is present in a content of between 5% and 35% by weight, in particular between 8% and 30%, even more particularly between 8% and 12% or between 16% and 28% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. A composition according to any preceding claim, comprising less than 1.0% by weight of silicone oil(s), preferably less than 0.5% by weight of silicone oil(s), relative to the total weight of the composition, and more preferably being free of silicone oil(s).

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises an anti-aging active ingredient.

11. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the anti-aging active ingredient is chosen from hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives having a molecular weight of less than 50,000 Da, in particular sodium hyaluronate having a molecular weight of less than 50,000 Da.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises an acylamino acid, in particular sodium stearoyl glutamate, more particularly in a content of between 0.01% and 15% by weight, preferably between 0.1% and 3% by weight, and more preferably between 0.2% and 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the aqueous phase is present in a content of between 65% and 95% by weight, preferably between 70% and 92% by weight, and more preferably between 74% and 82% or 88% and 92% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

14. Cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin materials a composition as defined according to any one of the preceding claims.