Cosmetic composition for the TREATMENT OF HUMAN PERSPIRATION with improved environmental impact and performance

Abstract

TITLE: Cosmetic Composition for the TREATMENT OF HUMAN PERSPIRATION with IMPROVED Environmental Impact and Performance. The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition useful for the treatment of human perspiration and, optionally, body odor resulting from perspiration, notably with a reduced environmental impact. Said antiperspirant composition comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium, at least one antiperspirant active ingredient selected from aluminum salts and complexes; at least one emulsifier selected from polyethylene glycol ethers; cetearyl alcohol; isoamyl laurate; and cetearyl alcohol; the ratio of the weight percentages of isoamyl laurate to cetearyl alcohol being less than or equal to 1. The invention also relates to an associated cosmetic device and method. Figure for abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: Cosmetic composition for the TREATMENT OF HUMAN PERSPIRATION with improved environmental impact and performance

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition useful for the treatment of human perspiration and, possibly, body odors resulting from perspiration, having in particular a reduced impact on the environment as well as an associated cosmetic device and process.

[0002] The armpits, as well as certain other parts of the body, are generally the site of various discomforts that may or may not stem directly from perspiration. These discomforts often lead to unpleasant and embarrassing sensations, primarily due to the presence of sweat. This sweat can, in some cases, make the skin feel damp and wet clothing, particularly in the armpits or on the back, leaving visible marks. Furthermore, the presence of sweat can lead to the release of body odors, which are usually unpleasant. Such discomforts should be taken into account, even in cases of moderate perspiration.

[0003] In the cosmetics field, it is well known to use topical antiperspirants and / or deodorants containing substances that mask, absorb, improve, and / or reduce the unpleasant odor resulting from the decomposition of human sweat and remedy the problems mentioned above. Antiperspirants and / or deodorants are thus, to date, the most widely marketed cosmetic compositions.

[0004] There are numerous antiperspirant and / or deodorant compositions on the market, and consumers are demanding ever more from their cosmetic products, while also being mindful of the environment. For example, cosmetic compositions containing polysiloxanes or polysiloxane derivatives, also known as "silicone," are becoming less and less popular due to environmental concerns, as these compounds are of petrochemical origin.

[0005] Galenic formulas with a better carbon footprint are therefore currently being sought, particularly by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or those with a good naturalness index and / or of natural origin, while reducing the use of petrochemical-derived compounds. Indeed, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, that is to say, products whose design and development take environmental issues into account, is becoming a A major concern in addressing global challenges is the need to develop more sustainable formulations. These cosmetic formulations must also be well-tolerated by the skin.

[0006] Furthermore, there is a need for such a cosmetic composition to be able to comprise a limited number of compounds or, at the very least, a limited number of compounds likely to be harmful to the environment, while maintaining an excellent texture and being easily applicable to the skin. Finally, such a cosmetic composition intended for the treatment of human perspiration must be easy to formulate, stable over time, and have excellent sensory qualities.

[0007] The Applicant has discovered, surprisingly, that this objective can be achieved with an aqueous composition comprising at least one antiperspirant active ingredient, isoamyl laurate, at least one emulsifier selected from polyethylene glycol ethers, cetearyl alcohol, and cetearyl alcohol; the latter two compounds being present in the composition in a specific weight percentage ratio. The resulting composition is easy to formulate, stable, and exhibits excellent antiperspirant efficacy. Furthermore, it is formulated with a limited number of compounds and has a low environmental impact, particularly in that it contains little or no polysiloxanes or polysiloxane derivatives.

[0008] The present invention thus relates more particularly to a cosmetic composition useful for the treatment of human perspiration and, possibly, body odors resulting from perspiration, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium,

[0009] - at least one antiperspirant active ingredient selected from salts and complexes aluminum,

[0010] - at least one emulsifier selected from polyethylene glycol ethers of alcohol cetearyl

[0011] - isoamyl laurate;

[0012] - cetearyl alcohol; and

[0013] in which the ratio of the weight percentages of isoamyl laurate / cetearyl alcohol is less than or equal to 1.

[0014] By "cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium", we mean an aqueous medium compatible with the skin and / or its appendages or mucous membranes which has a pleasant colour, odor and feel and which does not generate discomforts (such as tightness) likely to deter the consumer from using this composition.

[0015] Said cosmetically acceptable medium is aqueous, i.e. comprises an aqueous phase.

[0016] The present invention finally relates to a cosmetic process for treating human perspiration and, possibly, body odors resulting from perspiration, comprising the application to the skin of a composition as described above. Composition

[0017] The composition according to the invention comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium,

[0018] - at least one antiperspirant active ingredient selected from salts and complexes aluminum,

[0019] - at least one emulsifier selected from polyethylene glycol ethers of alcohol cetearyl;

[0020] - isoamyl laurate;

[0021] - cetearyl alcohol; and

[0022] in which the ratio of the weight percentages of isoamyl laurate / cetearyl alcohol is less than or equal to 1. Aqueous phase

[0023] The composition comprises an aqueous phase (also called a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium). The aqueous phase can be incorporated into a formulation in the form of a gel or an emulsion.

[0024] The aqueous phase of the composition contains water and, optionally, other solvents soluble or miscible in water. The solvents soluble or miscible in water may include short-chain monoalcohols, for example in the Ci-C4 group, such as ethanol, isopropanol; diols or polyols such as ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether and sorbitol, preferably 1,2-propylene glycol.

[0025] According to one embodiment, the composition comprises from 1% to 30% by weight of solvent(s) soluble or miscible in water relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 2% to 25% by weight, and preferably from 4% to 22% by weight. According to an alternative embodiment, the composition comprises less than 10%, preferably less than 5%, and even more preferably less than 2% by weight of solvent(s) soluble or miscible in water relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0026] Preferably, the composition comprises at least 50% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at least 55% by weight, preferably at least 65% by weight. Preferably, the composition comprises from 50% to 95% by weight of water relative to the total weight of composition, preferably 55% to 90% by weight, preferably 65% ​​to 85% by weight. Antiperspirant active ingredient

[0027] The composition includes at least one antiperspirant active ingredient selected from aluminum salts and complexes.

[0028] By "anti-perspirant active ingredient" is meant any substance which, by itself, has the effect of reducing the flow of perspiration, reducing the sensation on the skin of moisture related to human perspiration, and masking human perspiration.

[0029] According to a preferred embodiment, the aluminum salts and complexes are selected from aluminum halohydrates; aluminum halohydrates, aluminum hydroxychloride complexes with or without an amino acid, aluminum chlorohydrex, aluminum chlorohydrex polyethylene glycol complex, aluminum chlorohydrex propylene glycol complex, aluminum dichlorohydrate, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate, aluminum sesquichlorohydrex polyethylene glycol complex, aluminum sesquichlorohydrex propylene glycol complex, aluminum sulfate buffered by sodium aluminum lactate and mixtures thereof.

[0030] Advantageously, the antiperspirant active ingredient is aluminum chlorohydrate.

[0031] According to one embodiment, the percentage by weight of the antiperspirant active, relative to the total weight of the composition, is from 0.1 to 25% by weight, preferably from 3 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 3 to 13% by weight.

[0032] The composition may further include at least one additional antiperspirant active ingredient.

[0033] By way of illustration of additional antiperspirant actives, the following may be cited in particular: zirconium antiperspirant salts or complexes, preferably chosen from aluminum and zirconium halohydrates, zirconium hydroxychloride and aluminum hydroxychloride complexes with or without an amino acid such as those described in US-3792068 patent.

[0034] Among the aluminium and zirconium salts, particular examples include aluminium zirconium octachlorohydrate, aluminium zirconium pentachlorohydrate, aluminium zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminium zirconium trichlorohydrate.

[0035] Zirconium hydroxychloride and aluminum hydroxychloride complexes with an amino acid are generally known as ZAG (when the amino acid is glycine). Examples of these products include aluminum zirconium octachlorohydrex glycine, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrex glycine, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrex glycine, and aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrex glycine.

[0036] Among aluminium and zirconium salts, we can mention zirconium hydroxychloride and aluminium hydroxychloride complexes with an amino acid such as glycine having the INCI name: ALUMINUM ZIRCONIUM TETRACHLOROHYDREX GLY for example that marketed under the name REACH AZP-908-SUF® by the company SUMMITREHEIS. Isoamyl laurate

[0037] The antiperspirant composition according to the invention includes in particular isoamyl laurate.

[0038] Isoamyl laurate is a compound that may be known by other chemical names, including, but not limited to, isopenthyl dodecylate, isopenthyl laurate, isopenthyl dodecanoate, isoamyl dodecanoate, 3-methylbutyl dodecanoate, 3-methylbutyl dodecanoic acid ester, isopenthyl lauric acid ester, isoamyl lauric acid ester, and isoamyl n-dodecanoate. The present invention encompasses compounds bearing these other chemical names.

[0039] According to one embodiment, the percentage by weight of isoamyl laurate, relative to the total weight of the composition, is from 0.1 to 10%, preferably from 0.5 to 2.5%, more preferably from 0.2 to 2.0%.

[0040] Isoamyl laurate is a natural fatty acid ester derived from coconut oil and isoamyl alcohol. This compound acts as an emollient in the composition according to the invention, as well as a texturizing and / or lubricating agent. As a product of natural origin, isoamyl laurate makes it possible to obtain a composition with a low environmental impact, unlike, in particular, compositions containing polysiloxanes or polysiloxane derivatives.

[0041] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition comprises less than 0.3% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.01% or less than 0.001% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of polysiloxanes or polysiloxane derivatives. More preferably, the composition is substantially free of polysiloxanes or polysiloxane derivatives, also known as "silicones," in the sense that it does not contain any added polysiloxanes or polysiloxane derivatives.

[0042] Examples of polysiloxanes, polysiloxane derivatives or silicone compounds include, but are not limited to, cyclomethicone (e.g. cyclopentasiloxane), dimethicone, dimethiconol, phenyltrimethicone, cyclohexasiloxane and mixtures thereof.

[0043] The composition may further include one or more additional emollients. Examples of additional emollients include dodecane, coco-caprylate / caprate, tetradecane, isopropyl palmitate, coconut caprylate / caprate, and mixtures thereof. Cetearyl alcohol

[0044] The antiperspirant composition according to the invention comprises, in particular, cetearyl alcohol. The cetearyl alcohol is added in a specific proportion relative to the isoamyl laurate. In particular, the ratio of the weight percentages of isoamyl laurate to cetearyl alcohol in the composition according to the invention is less than or equal to 1.

[0045] The inventors have discovered that the ratio of the percentages by weight of isoamyl laurate / cetearyl alcohol is particularly important to obtain good stability over time of the composition according to the invention, in particular good stability at a temperature of 45 °C.

[0046] According to a particular embodiment, the ratio of the percentages by weight of isoamyl laurate / cetearyl alcohol of the antiperspirant composition according to the invention is from 0.05 to 1, preferably from 0.05 to 0.85, more preferably still from 0.05 to 0.3.

[0047] According to an embodiment compatible with the preceding embodiment, the percentage by weight of cetearyl alcohol, relative to the total weight of the composition, is from 0.1 to 10%, preferably from 0.5 to 2.5% by weight. Emulsifier

[0048] The antiperspirant composition according to the invention includes in particular at least one emulsifier selected from polyethylene glycol ethers of cetearyl alcohol.

[0049] Cetearyl alcohol polyethylene glycol ethers or cetearyl alcohol PEG ethers are also referred to as "ceteareths-n". The "n" after "ceteareth-" refers to the average number of -CH2-CH2-O- molecular units.

[0050] According to one embodiment, the emulsifier is chosen from ceteareth-12, ceteareth-20, ceteareth-25, ceteareth-33 and mixtures thereof, preferably ceteareth-33.

[0051] According to one embodiment, the percentage by weight of emulsifier, relative to the total weight of the composition, is from 0.01 to 5%, preferably from 0.25 to 1.25%. Deodorant active ingredient

[0052] The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one deodorant active ingredient.

[0053] For the purposes of this invention, "deodorant active" means any active ingredient which has the effect of masking, absorbing, improving and / or reducing the unpleasant odor resulting from the decomposition of human sweat when present in the composition according to the invention.

[0054] By way of illustration of these additional deodorant active ingredients, bacteriostatic agents or bactericidal agents acting on germs may be cited in particular axillary odors, such as 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether (Triclosan), 2,4-dichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether, 3',4',5'-trichlorosalicylanilide, l-(3',4'-dichlorophenyl)-3-(4'-chlorophenyl)urea (Triclocarban) or 3,7,11-trimethyldodeca-2,5,10-trienol (Farnesol); quaternary ammonium salts such as cetyltrimethylammonium salts, cetylpyridinium salts; polyols such as those of the glycerin type, 1,3-propanediol (ZEMEA PROPANEDIOL® marketed by Dupont Tate and Lyle Bioproducts), 1,2-decanediol (Symclariol® from the company Symrise); glycerin derivatives such as Caprylic / Capric Glycerides (CAPMUL MCM® from Abitec), Glycerol Caprylate or Caprate (DERMOSOFT GMCY® and DERMOSOFT GMC® respectively from STRAETMANS), Polyglyceryl-2 Caprate (DERMOSOFT DGMC® from STRAETMANS), biguanide derivatives such as polyhexamethylene biguanide salts; chlorhexidine and its salts; 4-Phenyl-4,4-dimethyl-2-butanol (SYMDEO MPP® from Symrise);cyclodextrins; alum or capryloyl salicylic acid or 2-hydroxy-5-(l-oxooctyl)benzoic acid); zinc neodeconoate; ethylglycerin.

[0055] The deodorant actives may preferably be present in the compositions according to the invention in weight concentrations ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Thickeners

[0056] According to one embodiment, the composition may include at least one hydrophilic thickener, i.e., soluble or dispersible in water. This thickener is compatible with the aqueous phase and allows the formation of a gelled aqueous phase.

[0057] Examples of hydrophilic thickeners include:

[0058] - modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, such as products marketed under the names Carbopol (CTFA name: carbomer) and Pemulen (CTFA name: Acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer) by the company Goodrich;

[0059] - polyacrylamides;

[0060] - 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane polymers and copolymers sulfonic (AMPS), possibly crosslinked and / or neutralized, such as poly(2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid) marketed by the Hoechst company under the name "Hostacerin AMPS" (CTFA name: Ammonium Polyacryldimethyltauramide);

[0061] - crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and AMPS, presented as the form of an O / W emulsion, such as those marketed under the name SEPIGEL 305 (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide / C13-14 Isoparaffin / Laureth-7) and under the name SIMULGEL 600 (CTFA name: Acrylamide / Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / Isohexadecane / Polysorbate 80) by the company SEPPIC;

[0062] - copolymers of AMPS and vinylpyrrolidone or vinylformamide, such as the ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer, marketed by Clariant under the name Aristoflex AVC;

[0063] - polysaccharide biopolymers such as pectin, locust bean gum, acacia gum, xanthan gum, guar gum and its derivatives such as hydroxypropyl guar, in particular that marketed under the name Jaguar HP105 by the company Rhodia, scleroglucans, chitin and chitosan derivatives, carrageenans, which may be a mixture of iota, lambda and kappa carrageenans, gellans, alginates, modified starches or celluloses such as microcrystalline cellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose and hydroxyethylcellulose, such as the product marketed under the name Natrosol 250HHR by the company Aqualon;

[0064] - and their mixtures.

[0065] Preferably, the total content of hydrophilic thickener(s) varies from 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1 to 9%, preferably from 3 to 6% by weight. Oily phase

[0066] According to one embodiment, the composition is in the form of an emulsion, in particular an oil-in-water emulsion. The composition may then comprise at least one organic liquid phase immiscible in water, called the oil phase. This generally comprises one or more hydrophobic compounds that render said phase immiscible in water. Said phase is liquid (in the absence of a structuring agent) at room temperature (20-25°C).

[0067] In such a case, typically, the oily phase is dispersed in the aqueous phase, and the composition is then in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. Preservatives and other additives

[0068] The composition according to the invention may include at least one preservative and / or at least one additive.

[0069] Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these possible complementary compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the cosmetic composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the envisaged addition(s).

[0070] Among the preservatives, phenoxyethanol, caprylyl glycol, benzyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof may be mentioned in particular. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least phenoxyethanol.

[0071] Preferably, the preservative is present in the composition at a concentration of between 0.05 and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.08 and 3% by weight relative to the total weight of composition, more preferably between 0.1 and 1% by weight relative to the total weight of composition.

[0072] The additive can be any common cosmetic additive, such as, for example, a fragrance or a filler. The additive can also be one or more cosmetic adjuvants chosen from waxes, softeners, antioxidants, opacifiers, stabilizers, moisturizing agents, vitamins, and polymers.

[0073] The perfume may be one of those described in S. Arctander, Perfume and Flavor Chemicals (2003 edition), and in "Flavor and Fragrance Materials - 1991", Allured Publishing Co. Wheaton, III. It may also be natural products (essential oils, absolutes, resinoids, resins, concretes) and / or synthetic products (terpenic or sesquiterpenic hydrocarbons, alcohols, phenols, aldehydes, ketones, ethers, acids, esters, nitriles, peroxides, saturated or unsaturated, aliphatic or cyclic), provided that they are fragrant.

[0074] As a filler, the composition may, according to a highly preferred embodiment, include perlite. Advantageously, the perlite is present in the composition at a rate of 0.001% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at a rate of 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and, even more preferably at a rate of 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0075] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium, as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, - from 0.1 to 25%, preferably 3 to 20%, more preferably from 3 to 13% of at least one antiperspirant active ingredient chosen from aluminum salts and complexes; - from 0.01% to 5%, preferably from 0.25% to 1.25% of at least one emulsifier chosen from polyethylene glycol ethers of cetearyl alcohol; - from 0.1% to 10%, preferably from 0.5% to 2.5%, more preferably from 0.2% to 2% of isoamyl laurate; - from 0.1% to 10%, preferably from 0.5% to 2.5% cetearyl alcohol; and

[0076] wherein the ratio of the weight percentages of isoamyl laurate to cetearyl alcohol is less than or equal to 1, preferably from 0.05 to 1, more preferably from 0.05 to 0.85 and, even more preferably, from 0.05 to 0.3. Pharmaceutical form

[0077] The composition used according to the invention can be presented in all the galenic forms normally used in the cosmetic field.

[0078] It can be more or less fluid and have the appearance of an emulsion, a gel, a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste, a soft solid (or soft solid) or even a solid.

[0079] The composition according to the invention, particularly when in emulsion form, is particularly suitable for packaging and distribution using a roll-on type device.

[0080] The composition according to the invention can be administered using any device, including, but not limited to, roll-on, stick, aerosol, or tube devices. The invention therefore also relates to a roll-on, stick, aerosol, or tube device comprising the composition according to the invention. Application method

[0081] The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating human perspiration and, possibly, body odors resulting from perspiration, comprising the application of a composition according to the invention to the skin, more particularly to the surface of the armpits.

[0082] The application time of the composition to the skin surface can vary from 0.5 to 10 seconds, preferably from 1 to 5 seconds. The composition can be applied repeatedly to the skin surface to distribute an effective amount over said skin surface. It can be applied repeatedly, over one day or over several days.

[0083] Throughout the description, including the claims, the expression "comprising one" shall be understood as synonymous with "comprising at least one", unless otherwise specified.

[0084] The expressions "between ... and ..." and "ranging from ... to ..." should be understood inclusive of bounds, unless otherwise specified.

[0085] In the description and examples, unless otherwise stated, percentages are weight percentages. Therefore, percentages are expressed as a percentage of the total weight of the composition (% w / w). Temperature is expressed in degrees Celsius unless otherwise stated, and pressure is atmospheric pressure unless otherwise stated.

[0086] The invention is illustrated in more detail by the non-limiting examples presented below. Examples

[0087] Example 1: Influence of aluminum salt content

[0088] Formulas A1 to A4 according to the invention below were prepared in the form emulsions as indicated below:

[0089] - Prepare the oil phase by melting it in a water bath at a temperature above 75°C the hot emulsifier(s) and cetearyl alcohol in the presence of isoamyllaurate (75°C-80°C);

[0090] - Prepare the aqueous phase by mixing the water and the aluminum salts under slow agitation;

[0091] - Add the melted and homogeneous oily phase to the aqueous phase;

[0092] _ Leave under vigorous stirring (pales + emulsifier) ​​for at least 20 min;

[0093] - Cool under blades to 45°C;

[0094] _ Add the perfume, preservatives and active ingredients at a temperature below 45°C under emulsifier until the formula reaches viscosity;

[0095] _ Cool to 25°C.

[0096] [Tables 1] Ingredients: Al (% w / w) A2 (% w / w) A3 (% w / w) A4 (% w / w) Phenoxyethanol 0.70 0.70 0.70 0.70 Aluminum Chlorohydrate 13.00 10.00 8.00 5.00 Isoamyl Laurate 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 Cetearyl Alcohol 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 Ceteareth-33 1.25 1.25 1.25 1.25 Water 81.05 84.05 86.05 89.05 Perlite 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00

[0097] The stability of these four formulas was tested at 2 months at room temperature and at 45°C by macroscopic observation of appearance, color and odor as well as measurements of viscosity and pH.

[0098] Each of these four formulas shows good stability at 2 months both at room temperature and at 45°C for all the criteria mentioned above.

[0099] The antiperspirant efficacy of these four formulas was then evaluated according to a gravimetric protocol, the results of which are presented in Example 2.

[0100] Example 2: Evaluation of antiperspirant efficacy according to aluminum salt content OBJECTIVE

[0101] Evaluate the level of antiperspirant efficacy of compositions Al to A4 according to the invention of example 1 at 24H, 48H, 72H and / or 96H after the 4th application versus untreated armpit. PROTOCOL Panel

[0102] 35 Caucasian subjects (men / women) aged 18 to 65 years

[0103] 21-day wash-out period without antiperspirant

[0104] Baseline inclusion criterion: - Perspiration of +100 mg / armpit / collection of x min - Ratio of sweat quantity between right and left armpits between 0.5-2

[0105] Experimental design: 1 treated armpit versus 1 untreated armpit Synopsis

[0106] • 4 controlled applications: 1 / day for 4 days • Quantity applied: 0.4 + / - 0.05 g • Evaluation time: 24 hours, 48 ​​hours, 72 hours and / or 96 hours after the 4th application • Evaluation method: gravimetry -

[0107] 2 Sweat collection periods of x min

[0108] Attaching the underarm pads

[0109] Weighing of the pads before and after each sweat collection • Conditions of the measurement:

[0110] Classic condition - Sweating in a warm room: 38°C + / - 2°C and relative humidity of 35% + / - 5% - Sweating time: 1 hour 20 minutes (warm-up period: 40 minutes then 2 periods of 20 minutes of sweat collection).

[0111] Extreme condition (formula Al only at t = Ih) - Sweating in a warm room: 45°C + / - 2°C - Sweating time: Ih (warm-up period: 30 minutes then 2 periods of 15 minutes of sweat collection). RESULTS

[0112] Antiperspirant efficacy after the 4th application

[0113] The Z efficiency is calculated according to the FDA method.

[0114] [Math.l] z=^F^ioo

[0115] With:

[0116] PC = untreated baseline sweat weight in the armpit (NT)

[0117] PT = sweat weight measured at baseline treated armpit (T)

[0118] C = weight of untreated armpit sweat (NT)

[0119] T = sweat weight T x treated armpit (T) Efficiency criterion#:

[0120] The Z score is compared to the efficacy threshold of 100 by the one-tailed Wilcoxon test.

[0121] The lower the Z value, the greater the reduction in sweating.

[0122] Z < 100 (S) allows for the claim of antiperspirant efficacy in Europe

[0123] [Tables2] Formula Median Z time Z <100 sig Al (extreme condition) 1H 55.0 S Al 24H 39.0 s A2 - - A3 - - A4 42.9 s Al 48H 30.4 s A2 36.4 s A3 30.5 s A4 30.7 s Al 72 H 45.2 s A2 29.6 s A3 31.7 s A4 - - Al 96 H 40.1 s A2 - - A3 9.7 s A4 - -

[0124] A significant reduction in sweating is observed under classic conditions for up to 48 hours for all formulas Al to A4, up to 72 hours for formulas Al, A2 and A3 and up to 96 hours for formula Al and A3.

[0125] A significant and substantial reduction in sweating is observed under extreme conditions for the Al formula.

[0126] Example 3: Influence of isoamyl laurate content and isoamyl laurate / cetearyl alcohol ratio

[0127] The comparative formulas B1 to B2 below were prepared as emulsions. Formula A1 according to the invention of Example 1 is also shown below, as well as a formula A5 according to the invention in which the isoamyl laurate / cetearyl alcohol ratio is 0.80.

[0128] [Tables3] Ingredient s Al (% w / w) A5 (% w / w) B1 (% w / w) Comparative B2(% w / w) Comparative Phenoxyethanol 0.70 0.70 0.70 0.70 Aluminum chlorohydrate 13.00 13.00 13.00 13.00 Isoamyl laurate 0.50 2.00 - 5.00 Cetearyl alcohol 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 Ceteareth-33 1.25 1.25 1.25 1.25 Water 81.05 76.55 81.55 76.55 Perlite 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 Dimethicone* - - - - Isoamyl 1 aurate ratio / Cetearyl alcohol 0.20 0.80 0 2.00

[0129] *Polydimethylsiloxane —[O-Si(CH3)2]n—, or poly(dimethylsiloxane) according to The systematic nomenclature, commonly called PDMS or dimethicone, is an organomineral polymer of the siloxane family.

[0130] The stability of these formulas was tested at 2 months at room temperature and at 45°C, according to the protocol described in example 1.

[0131] Compositions Al, A5 and B1 exhibit good stability at 2 months both at room temperature and at 45°C. Composition B2 does not exhibit good stability at 2 months at 45°C (inhomogeneous appearance: greater thickening on the surface, more liquid phase underneath with sedimentation of the perlite).

[0132] These results demonstrate that an isoamyllaurate / cetearyl alcohol ratio of less than or equal to 1 is necessary to maintain good stability of the emulsion in the composition according to the invention.

[0133] The comparison of the antiperspirant efficacy of formulas Al and B1 was then carried out according to a microfluidic (vitro) protocol detailed below.

[0134] The objective of this microfluidic protocol is to mimic in vitro what happens in vivo on the armpits. It allows the creation of a vitro system modeling the physics and consequently the specificity of sweat flow as it occurs in vivo. It thus allows for the qualitative observation (formation of flocs, aggregates, and plugs, etc.) of the effects of the active ingredients in solution. The formation of a plug at the point of contact with the channels containing, on the one hand, the sweat and, on the other hand, the formulation comprising the compound to be evaluated indicates that the compound to be evaluated effectively blocks the passage of sweat and, consequently, has anti-perspirant activity.

[0135] Microfluidic test protocol:

[0136] The tested formula is introduced onto a microsystem made of PDMS (polydimethylsiloxane) comprising four microchannels (3 cm high, 1.3 cm wide, and 60 µm in diameter) in a controlled chamber at 25°C / 80% humidity under standard conditions. The microsystem is an SOD4 device supplied by Microfactory. Artificial sweat is injected into these channels at a flow rate of 0.02 pL / min, thus forming the plug / precipitate present in the sweat ducts. Finally, a compressed air pressure gradient is applied to these plugs in the channels, and once the plug bursts at a given pressure, the antiperspirant performance of the formula can be evaluated in comparison with other control formulas. A video is recorded for 60 minutes, and the interactions are observed by optical microscopy.The higher the pressure reached to clear blockages and the higher the success rate (percentage of blocked channels), the more effective the formula can be considered as an antiperspirant.

[0137] A synthetic sweat was prepared as follows (percentages are percentages by weight):

[0138] [Tables4] SWEAT NAME % by weight Sodium chloride 0.5% Lactic acid 0.5% Urea 0.5% Ammonium hydroxide q.s.p. pH 6.5 Bovine Serum Albumin (BSA) 0.5% CaCl2 2 mM Water q.s.p. 100%

[0139] The results of the microfluidic protocol are detailed in the table below.

[0140] [Tables5] MICROFLUIDICS standard conditions 80%RH-25°C - synthetic sweat Al (% p / p) B1 (% p / p) Comparative Pressure (mbar) 864 + / - 41 1464 + / - 797 % success 94% 25% Cork height 275+ / -13 212 Number of batches 4 3 Cork formation time 1755 929 Performance (% success x Pressure) 81216 36660

[0141] The raw results show that the Al formula according to the invention is the most effective in terms of antiperspirant potential.

[0142] Indeed, the maximum pressure measured to clear the blockage present in the channels is the highest of the two formulas tested, with a standard deviation much smaller than for formula Bl. Similarly, the success rates and overall performance are better for formula Al. Thus, it has been shown that the addition of isoamyl laurate, in an isoamyl laurate / cetearyl alcohol ratio of less than or equal to 1, improves the antiperspirant performance of the formula.

[0143] Example 4: Improvement in antiperspirant efficacy compared to compositions containing silicones

[0144] The comparative formula B3 below was prepared as an emulsion according to the protocol described above. It comprises silicone in the form of dimethicone. Its antiperspirant efficacy was evaluated in comparison to that of formula Al according to the invention of Example 1.

[0145] [Tableauxô] Ingredients Al (% w / w) B3 (% w / w) Comparative Phenoxyethanol 0.70 0.70 Aluminum Chlorohydrate 13.00 13.00 Isoamyl Laurate 0.50 Cetearyl Alcohol 2.50 2.50 Ceteareth-33 1.25 1.25 Water 81.05 81.05 Perlite 1.00 1.00 Dimethicone 0.5 Fragrance

[0146] Both formulas were tested according to the microfluidic protocol detailed in Example 3.

[0147] The results of the microfluidic protocol are detailed in the table below.

[0148] [Tables?] MICROFLUIDIC standard conditions 80% RH -25 °C - synthetic sweat Al (% w / w) B3 (% w / w) Comparative Pressure (mbar) 864 + / - 41 948 + / - 48 % success 94% 67% plug height 275 + / -13 168 + / -39 number of batches 4 3 plug formation time 1755 1720 Performance (% success x Pressure) 81216 63516

[0149] Under identical test conditions and equivalent pressure, formula Al exhibits higher performance and a higher percentage of success than formula B3.

[0150] These results show that there are more pores actually blocked when formula Al is deposited compared to formula B3 being deposited, which may result from better spreading or better availability of aluminium chlorohydrate in contact with sweat proteins.

[0151] Example 5: Influence of silicones vs isoamylaurate under extreme conditions

[0152] The comparative formulas B3 and B4 below were prepared as an emulsion according to the protocol described above. They comprise silicone in the form of dimethicone. Their antiperspirant efficacy under extreme conditions was evaluated in comparison to that of formula Al according to the invention of Example 1.

[0153] [Tables8] Ingredients Al (% w / w) B3 (% w / w) Comparative B4 (% w / w) Comparative Phenoxyethanol 0.70 0.70 0.50 Aluminum Chlorohydrate 13.00 13.00 15.00 Isoamyl Laurate 0.50 - - Cetearyl Alcohol 2.50 2.50 2.50 Ceteareth-33 1.25 1.25 1.25 Water 81.05 81.05 62.45 Perlite 1.00 1.00 1.00 Dimethicone - 0.5 0.5 Pentylene glycol - - 0.5 Perfume - - 1.3

[0154] The formulas were tested according to the microfluidic protocol as described in example 3 but under extreme conditions, i.e. at a temperature of 45°C and under 30% humidity.

[0155] The results of the microfluidic protocol are detailed in the table below.

[0156] [Tables9] MICROFLUIDIC extreme conditions 30% RH-45°C - synthetic sweat Al (% w / w) B3 (% w / w) Comparative B4 (% w / w) Comparative Pressure (mbar) 966+ / -91 1136+ / -63 993 + / - 17% success rate 100% 75% 88% plug height 537+ / -46 288+ / -67 221+ / -64 number of runs 4 4 4 plug formation time 1522 1615 732 Performance (% success x Pressure) 96600 85200 87384

[0157] Comparison of the results obtained for formulas B4 and B3 shows that the antiperspirant performance of these formulas decreases when the amount of aluminium is reduced (B4 vs B3).

[0158] With the same quantity of aluminum salt, the Al formula containing isoamyl laurate provides superior performance (Al vs. B3). The performance of the Al formula is also superior to that of the B4 formula containing more aluminum salt (Al vs. B4).

[0159] Example 6: Influence of polyethylene glycol ethers on cetearyl alcohol

[0160] The A6 formulas according to the invention and comparative Cl below were prepared in the form of emulsions.

[0161] [Tables 10] Ingredient s A6 (% w / w) Cl (% w / w) Comparative Phenoxyethanol 0.70 - Aluminum chlorohydrate 13.00 15.00 Isoamyl laurate 0.50 0.50 Cetearyl alcohol 2.50 2.50 Ceteareth-33 1.25 - Water 80.00 79.29 Perlite 1.00 1.00 Pentylene glycol - 0.71 Perfume 1.05 1.00

[0162] Composition A6 according to the invention exhibits good stability at 2 months both at temperature and at 45°C according to the protocol described in Example 1. The comparative formula Cl does not form an emulsion but is presented as a transparent liquid without gaining viscosity.

[0163] Example 7: Evaluation of antiperspirant efficacy at 7°C

[0164] The objective of this study is to evaluate the performance of a roll-on emulsion with an AO formula comprising 13% by weight of aluminium chlorohydrate over a period of 7 days, in a classic gravimetric protocol.

[0165] [Tableauxll] Ingredients A0 (% w / w) Phenoxyethanol 0.70 Aluminum Chlorohydrate 13.00 Isoamyl Laurate 0.50 Cetearyl Alcohol 2.50 Ceteareth-33 1.25 Water 80.65 Fragrance 1.40

[0166] The protocol for evaluating antiperspirant efficacy is identical to that of the previous example 4, with the gravimetric evaluation of the amount of sweat being assessed at the baseline and then 7 days after the 4th application. Results

[0167] [Tables 12] Formula Z median Z <100% sig A0 82.79 S

[0168] The Z score is significantly different from the threshold z< 100% reflecting a reduction in the amount of sweat and therefore antiperspirant efficacy in Europe.

Claims

Demands

1. Antiperspirant composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium, - at least one antiperspirant active selected from aluminium salts and complexes, - at least one emulsifier selected from polyethylene glycol ethers of cetearyl alcohol; - isoamyl laurate; - cetearyl alcohol; and wherein the ratio of the weight percentages of isoamyl laurate / cetearyl alcohol is less than or equal to 1.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the aluminum salts and complexes are selected from aluminum halohydrates; aluminum halohydrates, aluminum hydroxychloride complexes with or without an amino acid, aluminum chlorohydrex, aluminum chlorohydrex polyethylene glycol complex, aluminum chlorohydrex propylene glycol complex, aluminum dichlorohydrate, aluminum dichlorohydrex polyethylene glycol complex, aluminum dichlorohydrex propylene glycol complex, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate, aluminum sesquichlorohydrex polyethylene glycol complex, aluminum sesquichlorohydrex propylene glycol complex, aluminum sulfate buffered by sodium aluminum lactate and mixtures thereof.

3. Composition according to any one of claims 1 or 2, wherein the antiperspirant active is aluminium chlorohydrate.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the percentage by weight of the antiperspirant active, relative to the total weight of the composition, is from 0.1 to 25% by weight, preferably from 3 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 3 to 13% by weight.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the ratio of the weight percentages of isoamyl laurate / cetearyl alcohol is 0.05 to 1, preferably 0.05 to 0.85, more preferably 0.05 to 0.

3.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the emulsifier is selected from ceteareth-12, ceteareth-20, ceteareth-25, ceteareth-33 and mixtures thereof.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the percentage by weight of emulsifier, relative to the total weight of the composition, is from 0.01 to 5%, preferably from 0.25 to 1.25%.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the weight percentage of isoamyl laurate, relative to the total weight of the composition, is from 0.1 to 10%, preferably from 0.5 to 2.5%, more preferably from 0.5 to 2.0%

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the percentage by weight of cetearyl alcohol, relative to the total weight of the composition, is from 0.1 to 10%, preferably from 0.5 to 2.5%.

10. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium, as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition: - from 0.1 to 25%, preferably from 3 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 3 to 13% of at least one antiperspirant active ingredient selected from aluminum salts and complexes; - from 0.01% to 5%, preferably from 0.25% to 1.25% of at least one emulsifier selected from polyethylene glycol ethers of cetearyl alcohol; - from 0.1% to 10%, preferably from 0.5% to 2.5% of isoamyl laurate; - from 0.1% to 10%, preferably from 0.5% to 2.5% of cetearyl alcohol; and in which the ratio of the percentages by weight of isoamyl laurate / cetearyl alcohol is less than or equal to 1, preferably 0.05 and 1, more preferably 0.05 to 0.85, and even more preferably 0.05 to 0.

3.

11. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises one or more cosmetic adjuvants selected from waxes, softeners, antioxidants, opacifiers, stabilizers, moisturizing agents, vitamins, perfumes, preservatives, polymers, fillers and hydrophilic thickeners.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises less than 0.3% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight and, more preferably still less than 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition, of polysiloxanes or polysiloxane derivatives.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of an emulsion, a gel, a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste, a soft solid or a solid.

14. Roll-on, stick, aerosol or tube type device comprising the composition according to any one of the preceding claims.

15. Cosmetic method for treating human perspiration and optionally body odors resulting from perspiration, comprising applying a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13 to the skin.