Cosmetic composition for the treatment of human perspiration with improved environmental impact and performance

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition that can be used for the treatment of human perspiration and, optionally, body odors resulting from perspiration, having in particular a reduced impact on the environment. Said antiperspirant composition comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium, at least one antiperspirant agent chosen from aluminum salts and complexes; at least one emulsifier chosen from cetearyl alcohol polyethylene glycol ethers; isoamyl laurate; cetearyl alcohol; the isoamyl laurate / cetearyl alcohol weight percentage ratio being less than or equal to 1. The invention also relates to an associated cosmetic device and method.

Description

[0001] COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR THE TREATMENT OF HUMAN PERSPIRATION WITH IMPROVED ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT AND PERFORMANCE

[0002] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition that can be used for the treatment of human perspiration and, optionally, body odors resulting from perspiration, having in particular a reduced impact on the environment as well as an associated cosmetic device and method.

[0003] The armpits as well as certain other parts of the body are generally the place of several discomforts that can stem directly or not from perspiration problems. These phenomena often cause unpleasant and uncomfortable sensations which are primarily due to the presence of sweat resulting from perspiration that can, in certain cases, make the skin moist and wet clothing, in particular at the armpits or the back, thus leaving visible traces. Moreover, the presence of sweat can generate the discharging of body odors that are most of the time unpleasant. Such discomforts are to be taken into account, including in the case of moderate perspiration.

[0004] In the cosmetics field, it is thus well known to use a topical application of antiperspirant and / or deodorant products containing substances that have the effect of masking, absorbing, improving and / or reducing the unpleasant odor resulting from the decomposition of human sweat and remedying the problems mentioned hereinabove. Antiperspirants and / or deodorants are thus, to date, the most marketed cosmetic compositions.

[0005] There are very numerous antiperspirant and / or deodorant compositions on the market and consumers are increasingly demanding more from their cosmetic products, while being mindful of the environment. For example, cosmetic compositions containing polysiloxanes or polysiloxane derivatives, also known as “silicone”, are decreasing in popularity due to environmental issues since they are compounds of petrochemical origin.

[0006] Therefore dosage formulas with a better carbon footprint are currently sought particularly by promoting the use of raw materials that are renewable and / or have a good wilderness quality index and / or are of natural origin while reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin. Indeed, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, i.e., the design and development of which account for environmental concerns, is becoming a major concern to help meet global challenges. It has therefore become essential to propose more sustainable compositions to meet these environmental challenges. These cosmetic compositions must also be tolerated well by the skin.

[0007] Furthermore, there is a need for such a cosmetic composition to be able to comprise a restricted number of compounds or, at the very least, a restricted number of compounds capable of being harmful for the environment, while retaining an excellent texture and being readily applicable on the skin. Finally, such a cosmetic composition intended for the treatment of human perspiration must be easy to formulate, stable over time and exhibit excellent sensory properties. Notably, such a cosmetic composition intended for the treatment of human perspiration must give rise to “soaping” sensory properties (i.e. appearance of white traces and / or whitish film during and / or after application) as low as possible.

[0008] The Applicant surprisingly discovered that this objective could be achieved with an aqueous composition comprising at least one antiperspirant agent, isoamyl laurate, at least one emulsifier chosen from cetearyl alcohol polyethylene glycol ethers, and cetearyl alcohol; the latter two compounds being present in the composition in a particular weight percentage ratio. The composition obtained is easy to formulate and stable, and exhibits excellent antiperspirant effectiveness. It is furthermore formulated with a restricted number of compounds and has a low environmental impact, particularly in that it contains little or no polysiloxanes or polysiloxanes derivatives.

[0009] Thus, the present invention relates more particularly to a cosmetic composition that can be used for the treatment of human perspiration and, optionally, body odors resulting from perspiration, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium,

[0010] - at least one antiperspirant agent chosen from aluminum salts and complexes,

[0011] - at least one emulsifier chosen from cetearyl alcohol polyethylene glycol ethers,

[0012] - isoamyl laurate;

[0013] - cetearyl alcohol; and wherein the isoamyl laurate I cetearyl alcohol weight percentage ratio is less than or equal to 1.

[0014] The term “cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium” denotes an aqueous medium compatible with the skin and / or its appendages or mucosa, having a pleasant color, odor and texture and not giving rise to unacceptable discomfort (such as tightness), liable to dissuade the consumer from using the composition.

[0015] Said cosmetically acceptable medium is aqueous, i.e. it comprises an aqueous phase.

[0016] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for the treatment of human perspiration and, optionally, body odors resulting from perspiration, comprising the application of a composition as described hereinabove on the skin.

[0017] Composition

[0018] The composition according to the invention comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium,

[0019] - at least one antiperspirant agent chosen from aluminum salts and complexes,

[0020] - at least one emulsifier chosen from cetearyl alcohol polyethylene glycol ethers;

[0021] - isoamyl laurate;

[0022] - cetearyl alcohol; and wherein the isoamyl laurate I cetearyl alcohol weight percentage ratio is less than or equal to 1.

[0023] Aqueous phase

[0024] The composition comprises an aqueous phase (also known as cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium). The aqueous phase can be incorporated into a formulation in the form of a gel or an emulsion.

[0025] The aqueous phase of the composition contains water and, optionally, other water- soluble or water-miscible solvents. The water-soluble or water-miscible solvents can comprise short-chain mono-alcohols for example CrC4such as ethanol, isopropanol; diols or polyols such as ethyleneglycol, 1 ,2-propyleneglycol, 1 ,3-butylene glycol, hexyleneglycol, diethyleneglycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethylether, triethylene glycol monomethylether and sorbitol, preferably 1 ,2-propyleneglycol.

[0026] According to one embodiment, the composition comprises from 1 % to 30% by weight of water-soluble or water-miscible solvent(s) relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 2% to 25% by weight, preferably from 4% to 22% by weight. According to an alternative embodiment, the composition comprises less than 10%, preferably less than 5%, and more preferably less than 2% by weight of water-soluble or water-miscible solvent(s) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0027] Preferably, the composition comprises at least 50% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at least 55% by weight, preferably at least 65% by weight. Preferably, the composition comprises from 50% to 95% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 55% to 90% by weight, preferably from 65% to 85% by weight.

[0028] Antiperspirant agent

[0029] The composition comprises at least one antiperspirant agent chosen from aluminum salts and complexes.

[0030] The term “antiperspirant agent” denotes any substance, which, alone, has the effect of reducing sweat flow, reducing the damp sensation on the skin associated with human sweat, masking human sweat.

[0031] According to a preferred embodiment, the aluminum salts and complexes are chosen from aluminum halohydrates; aluminum halohydrates, aluminum hydroxychloride complexes with or without an amino acid, aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum chlorohydrex, aluminum chlorohydrex polyethyleneglycol complex, aluminum chlorohydrex propyleneglycol complex, aluminum dichlorohydrate, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate, aluminum sesquichlorohydrex polyethyleneglycol complex, aluminum sesquichlorohydrex propyleneglycol complex, aluminum sulfate buffered with sodium and aluminum lactate and mixtures thereof.

[0032] Advantageously, the antiperspirant agent is aluminum chlorohydrate.

[0033] According to one embodiment, the percentage by weight of the antiperspirant agent, relative to the total weight of the composition, is from 0.1 to 25% by weight, preferably from 3 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 3 to 13% by weight.

[0034] The composition can further comprise at least one additional antiperspirant agent.

[0035] By way of illustration of additional antiperspirant agents, mention can be made in particular of aluminum and / or zirconium antiperspirant salts or complexes, preferably chosen from aluminum and zirconium halohydrates, zirconium hydroxychloride and aluminum hydroxychloride complexes with or without an amino acid such as those described in patent US-3792068.

[0036] Among the aluminum and zirconium salts, mention can be made in particular of aluminum zirconium octachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate.

[0037] Zirconium hydroxychloride and aluminum hydroxychloride complexes with an amino acid are generally known under the name ZAG (when the amino acid is glycine). Among these products, mention can be made of complexes of aluminum zirconium octachlorohydrex glycine, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrex glycine, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrex glycine and aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrex glycine.

[0038] Among the aluminum and zirconium salts, mention can be made of the complexes of zirconium hydroxychloride and aluminum hydroxychloride with an amino acid such as glycine having for INCI name: ALUMINUM ZIRCONIUM TETRACHLOROHYDREX GLY for example that sold under the trade name REACH AZP-908-SUF® by SUMMITREHEIS.

[0039] Isoamyl laurate

[0040] The antiperspirant composition according to the invention particularly comprises isoamyl laurate.

[0041] Isoamyl laurate is a compound that can be known as other chemical names, including but not limited to isopentyl dodecylate, isopentyl laurate, isopentyl dodecanoate, isoamyl dodecanoate, 3-methylbutyl dodecanoate, dodecanoic acid 3-methylbutyl ester, lauric acid isopentyl ester, lauric acid isoamyl ester, isoamyl n-dodecanoate. The present invention includes compounds bearing these other chemical names.

[0042] According to one embodiment, the percentage by weight of isoamyl laurate, relative to the total weight of the composition, is from 0.1 to 10%, preferably from 0.5 to 2.5%, more preferably from 0.2 to 2.0%.

[0043] Isoamyl laurate is a natural fatty acid ester derived from coconut oil and isoamyl alcohol. This compound forms an emollient in the composition according to the invention as well as a texturing agent and / or lubricant. As a product of natural origin, isoamyl laurate makes it possible to obtain a composition with a low environmental impact, particularly unlike compositions comprising polysiloxanes or polysiloxane derivatives.

[0044] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition comprises less than 0.3% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.01 % or less than 0.001% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of polysiloxanes or polysiloxane derivatives. More preferably, the composition is substantially free from polysiloxanes or polysiloxane derivatives, also known as “silicones” in that it comprises no addition of these compounds.

[0045] Examples of polysiloxanes, polysiloxane derivatives or silicone compounds comprise, but are not limited to, cyclomethicone (e.g., cyclopentasiloxane), dimethicone, dimethiconol, phenyltrimethicone, cyclohexasiloxane and mixtures thereof.

[0046] The composition can further comprise one or more additional emollients. As an additional emollient, mention can be made in particular of dodecane, coco- caprylate / caprate, tetradecane, isopropyl palmitate, coco caprylate / caprate and mixtures thereof.

[0047] Cetearyl alcohol

[0048] The antiperspirant composition according to the invention particularly comprises cetearyl alcohol. Cetearyl alcohol is added at a particular content relative to isoamyl laurate. In particular, the isoamyl laurate I cetearyl alcohol weight percentage ratio in the composition according to the invention is less than or equal to 1.

[0049] The inventors discovered that the isoamyl laurate I cetearyl alcohol weight percentage ratio is particularly important for obtaining good stability over time of the composition according to the invention, in particular good stability at a temperature of 45°C.

[0050] According to a particular embodiment, the isoamyl laurate I cetearyl alcohol weight percentage ratio of the antiperspirant composition according to the invention, is from 0.05 to 1 , preferably from 0.05 to 0.85, more preferably from 0.05 to 0.3.

[0051] According to an embodiment compatible with the preceding embodiment, the percentage by weight of cetearyl alcohol, relative to the total weight of the composition, is from 0.1 to 10%, preferably from 0.5 to 2.5% by weight. Emulsifier

[0052] The antiperspirant composition according to the invention particularly comprises at least one emulsifier chosen from cetearyl alcohol polyethylene glycol ethers.

[0053] Cetearyl alcohol polyethylene glycol ethers or cetearyl alcohol PEG ethers are also known as “ceteareths-n”. The number “n” after “ceteareth-” refers to the average number of molecular units -CH2-CH2-O-.

[0054] According to one embodiment, the emulsifier is chosen from ceteareth-12, ceteareth-20, ceteareth-25, ceteareth-33, and mixtures thereof, preferably ceteareth-33.

[0055] According to one embodiment, the percentage by weight of emulsifier, relative to the total weight of the composition, is from 0.01 to 5%, preferably from 0.25 to 1.25%.

[0056] Deodorant agent

[0057] The composition according to the invention can further comprise at least one deodorant agent.

[0058] Within the scope of the present invention, the term “deodorant agent” refers any active agent which has the effect of masking, absorbing, improving and / or reducing the unpleasant odor resulting from the decomposition of human sweat when it is present in the composition according to the invention.

[0059] By way of illustration of these additional deodorant agents, mention can be made in particular of bacteriostatic agents or bactericidal agents acting on microorganisms of armpit odors, such as 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenylether (Triclosan), 2,4-dichloro-2'- hydroxydiphenylether, 3',4',5'-trichlorosalicylanilide,1-(3',4'-dichlorophenyl)-3-(4'- chlorophenyl)urea (Triclocarban) or 3,7,11-trimethyldodeca-2,5,10-trienol (Farnesol); quaternary ammonium salts such as cetyltrimethylammonium salts, cetylpyridinium salts; polyols such as those of the glycerin type, 1 ,3-propanediol (ZEMEA PROPANEDIOL® sold by Dupont Tate and Lyle Bioproducts), 1 ,2-decanediol (Symclariol® from Symrise); glycerin derivatives such as for example Capryl ic / Capric Glycerides (CAPMUL MCM® from Abitec), Caprylate or glyceryl caprylate (DERMOSOFT GMCY® and DERMOSOFT GMC® respectively from STRAETMANS), Polyglyceryl-2 Caprate (DERMOSOFT DGMC® from STRAETMANS), biguanide derivatives such as polyhexamethylene biguanide salts; chlorhexidine and salts thereof; 4-Phenyl-4,4-dimethyl-2-butanol (SYMDEO MPP® from Symrise); cyclodextrins; alum or capryoyl salicylic acid or 2-hydroy-5-(1-oxooctyl)benzoic) acid; zinc neodeconoate; ethylglycerin.

[0060] The deodorant agents can be present preferably in the compositions according to the invention in weight concentrations ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0061] Thickeners

[0062] According to one embodiment, the composition can comprise at least one hydrophilic, i.e. water-soluble or water-dispersible, thickener. This thickener is compatible with the aqueous phase and makes it possible to obtain a gelled aqueous phase.

[0063] As a hydrophilic thickener, mention can be made, for example, of:

[0064] - optionally modified carboxyvinyl polymers, such as the products marketed under the names Carbopol (CTFA name: carbomer) and Pemulen (CTFA name: Acrylates / C IQ- 30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer) by Goodrich;

[0065] - polyacrylamides;

[0066] - polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS), optionally cross-linked and / or neutralized, such as poly(2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanel sulfonic acid) marketed by Hoechst under the name “Hostacerin AMPS” (CTFA name: Ammonium Polyacryldimethyltauramide);

[0067] - cross-linked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and AMPS, in the form of a W / O emulsion, such as those marketed under the name SEPIGEL 305 (CTFA name Polyacrylamide I C13-14 Isoparaffin I Laureth-7) and under the name SIMULGEL 600 (CTFA name: Acrylamide I Sodium acryloyldi methyltaurate copolymer I Isohexadecane I Polysorbate 80) by SEPPIC;

[0068] - copolymers of AMPS and vinylpyrrolidone or vinylformamide, such as ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer, marketed by Clariant under the name Aristoflex A VC;

[0069] - polysaccharide biopolymers such as pectin, carob gum, gum arabic, xanthan gum, guar gum and its derivatives such as guar hydroxypropyl, in particular that marketed under the name Jaguar HP105 by Rhodia, scleroglucans, chitin and chitosan derivatives, carrageenans, which can be a mixture of iota, lambda, and kappa carrageenans, gellans, alginates, starches or modified celluloses such as microcrystalline cellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, and hydroxyethylcellulose, such as the product marketed under the name Natrosol 250HHR by

[0070] Aquaion;

[0071] - and mixtures thereof.

[0072] Preferably, the total content of hydrophilic surfactant(s) ranges from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1% to 9% by weight, preferably from 3% to 6% by weight.

[0073] Oily phase

[0074] According to one embodiment, the composition is in emulsion form, particularly oil-in- water emulsion. The compositions according to the invention contain at least one organic liquid phase non-miscible in water, known as the oily phase. This generally comprises one or more hydrophobic compounds rendering said phase non-miscible in water. Said phase is liquid (in the absence of a structuring agent) at ambient temperature (20-25°C).

[0075] In such a case, typically, the oily phase is dispersed in the aqueous phase, and the composition is then in oil-in-water emulsion form.

[0076] Preservatives and other additives

[0077] The composition according to the invention can comprise at least one preservative and / or at least one additive.

[0078] Obviously, those skilled in the art will take care to choose any compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the cosmetic composition according to the invention are not altered, or are not substantially altered by the envisaged addition(s).

[0079] As preservatives, mention can particularly be made of phenoxyethanol, caprylyl glycol, benzyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least some phenoxyethanol.

[0080] Preferably, the preservative is present in the composition at a content between 0.05 and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.08 and 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 0.1 to 1 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The additive can be any customary additive in the cosmetics field, such as a perfume or a filler. The additive can also be one or more cosmetic adjuvants chosen from waxes, softeners, antioxidants, opacifiers, stabilizers, moisturizing agents, vitamins, and polymers.

[0081] The perfume can be one of those described in S. Arctander, Perfume and Flavor Chemicals (2003 edition), and in “Flavor and Fragrance Materials - 1991”, Allured Publishing Co. Wheaton, III. It can also be a natural product (essential, absolute oils, resinoids, resins, concretes) and / or synthetic products (terpenic or sesquiterpenic hydrocarbons, alcohols, phenols, aldehydes, ketones, ethers, acids, esters, nitriles, peroxides, saturated or unsaturated, aliphatic or cyclic), provided that they are fragrant.

[0082] As a filler, the composition can comprise, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, perlite. Advantageously, perlite is present in the composition at a rate of 0.001% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.01 % to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and, more preferably at a rate of 0.1 % to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0083] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium, as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0084] - from 0.1 to 25%, preferably from 3 to 20%, more preferably from 3 to 13% of at least one antiperspirant ingredient chosen from aluminum salts and complexes;

[0085] - from 0.01 % to 5%, preferably from 0.25% to 1.25% of at least one emulsifier chosen from cetearyl alcohol polyethylene glycol ethers;

[0086] - from 0.1 % to 10%, preferably from 0.5 to 2.5%, more preferably from 0.2% to 2% of isoamyl laurate;

[0087] - from 0.1 % to 10%, preferably from 0.5% to 2.5% of cetearyl alcohol; and wherein the isoamyl laurate I cetearyl alcohol weight percentage ratio is less than or equal to 1 , preferably from 0.05 to 1 , more preferably from 0.05 to 0.85 and, even more preferably from 0.05 to 0.3.

[0088] DOSAGE FORM

[0089] The composition used according to the invention can be in any dosage forms normally used in the cosmetic field. It can be more or less fluid and have the appearance of an emulsion, a gel, a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste, a soft solid or a solid.

[0090] The composition according to the invention, particularly when it is in emulsion form, is particularly suitable for packaging and dispensing using a roll-on type device.

[0091] The composition according to the invention can be administered using any device, particularly and, non-exhaustively, devices such as roll-on, stick, aerosol or tube type devices. The invention therefore also relates to a roll-on, stick, aerosol or tube type device such that it comprises the composition according to the invention.

[0092] APPLICATION METHOD

[0093] Finally, the present invention relates to a cosmetic method for the treatment of human perspiration and, optionally, body odors resulting from perspiration, comprising the application of a composition according to the invention on the skin, more particularly on the surface of the armpits.

[0094] The application time of the composition on the surface of the skin can vary from 0.5 to 10 seconds, preferably from 1 to 5 seconds. The composition can be applied repeatedly on the surface of the skin in order to dispense an effective quantity on said surface of the skin. It can be applied several times, over one day or over several days.

[0095] Throughout the description, including the claims, the expression “including a” is to be understood as being synonymous with “including at least one”, unless specified otherwise.

[0096] The expressions “between ... and ...” and “ranging from ... to ... ” are to be understood to be inclusive of the limits, unless specified otherwise.

[0097] In the description and the examples, unless mentioned otherwise, the percentages are weight percentages. The percentages are therefore expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (% w / w). The temperature is expressed in degrees Celsius unless mentioned otherwise, and the pressure is the atmospheric pressure, unless mentioned otherwise.

[0098] The invention is illustrated in more detail by the non-limiting examples presented hereinafter. Examples

[0099] Example 1 : Effect of aluminum salt content

[0100] Formulas A1 to A4 according to the invention below were prepared in emulsion form as indicated hereinafter:

[0101] - Prepare the oily phase by melting the hot emulsifier(s) and cetearyl alcohol in the presence of isoamyllaurate (75°C-80°C) in a water bath at a temperature greater than 75°C;

[0102] - Prepare the aqueous phase by mixing the water and the aluminum salts under slow stirring;

[0103] - Add the molten and homogeneous oily phase to the aqueous phase;

[0104] - Leave under vigorous stirring (blades + emulsifier) for at least 20 min;

[0105] - Cooling under blades to 45°C;

[0106] - Add the perfume, preservatives and active agents at a temperature less than 45°C under emulsifier until the formula becomes viscous;

[0107] - Cool to 25°C.

[0108] [Table 1]

[0109] The stabilities of these four formulas were tested at 2 months at ambient temperature and at 45°C by macroscopic observation of the appearance, color and odor as well as viscosity and pH measurements.

[0110] Each of these four formulas exhibits a good stability at 2 months both at ambient temperature and at 45°C for all the criteria mentioned hereinabove.

[0111] The antiperspirant effectiveness of these four formulas was then evaluated according to a gravimetric protocol, the results of which are presented in Example 2. Example 2: Evaluation of antiperspirant effectiveness according to aluminum salt content

[0112] OBJECTIVE

[0113] To evaluate the degree of antiperspirant effectiveness of compositions A1 to A4 according to the invention of Example 1 at 24H, 48H, 72H and / or 96H after the 4th application versus untreated armpit.

[0114] PROTOCOL

[0115] Panel

[0116] 35 Caucasian subjects (male / female) aged 18 to 65 years

[0117] Wash-out period of 21 days without antiperspirant

[0118] Baseline inclusion criterion:

[0119] Perspiration of more than 100 mg / armpit / x-min collection

[0120] Right armpit / left armpit sweat quantity ratio between 0.5-2

[0121] Experimental design: 1 treated armpit versus 1 untreated armpit

[0122] Synopsis

[0123] • 4 controlled applications: 1 / day for 4 days

[0124] • Quantity applied: 0.4+ / -0.05 g

[0125] • Evaluation time 24H, 48H, 72H and / or 96H after the 4th application

[0126] • Evaluation method: gravimetry -

[0127] 2 x-min sweat collection periods Attachment of pads under armpit Weighing of pads before and after each sweat collection

[0128] • Measurement conditions:

[0129] Standard condition

[0130] Sweating in hot room: 38°+ / - 2°C and relative humidity 35+ / - 5% Sweating time: 1 h20 (warm-up period: 40 minutes followed by 2 x 20-min sweat collection periods).

[0131] Extreme condition (formula A1 only at t = 1h)

[0132] Sweating in hot room: 45°+ / - 2°C

[0133] Sweating time: 1 h (warm-up period: 30 minutes followed by 2 x 15-min sweat collection periods). RESULTS

[0134] Antiperspirant effectiveness after 4th application

[0135] The effectiveness Z is calculated according to the FDA method.

[0136] [Math 1] 100

[0137] Where:

[0138] PC = weight of sweat at baseline for untreated armpit (NT)

[0139] PT = weight of sweat at baseline for treated armpit (T)

[0140] C = weight of sweat Txfor untreated armpit (NT)

[0141] T = weight of sweat Txfor untreated armpit (T)

[0142] Effectiveness criterion:

[0143] The Z score is compared to the effectiveness threshold 100 with the one-sided Wilcoxon test.

[0144] The lower the Z score, the greater the sweat reduction

[0145] Z < 100 (S) makes it possible to claim antiperspirant effectiveness in Europe

[0146] [Table 2]

[0147] A substantial and significant reduction in sweating under standard conditions was observed up to 48 hours for all formulas A1 to A4, up to 72 hours for formulas A1 , A2 and A3 and up to 96 hours for formulas A1 and A3. A substantial and significant reduction in sweating under extreme conditions is observed for formula A1.

[0148] Example 3: Effect of isoamyl laurate content and isomyl laurate / cetearyl alcohol ratio

[0149] Comparative formulas B1 to B2 below were prepared in emulsion form. Formula A1 according to the invention of example 1 has also been reported below, as well as a formula A5 according to the invention wherein the Isoamyl laurate I Cetearyl alcohol ratio is 0.80.

[0150] [Table 3]

[0151] *Polydimethylsiloxane — [O-Si(CH3)2]n — , or poly(dimethylsiloxane) according to the systematic nomenclature, commonly known as PDMS or dimethicone, is an organomineral polymer of the siloxane family.

[0152] The stabilities of these formulas were tested at 2 months at ambient temperature and at 45°C according to the protocol described in Example 1.

[0153] Compositions A1 , A5 and B1 exhibit a good stability at 2 months both at ambient temperature and at 45°C. Composition B2 does not exhibit a good stability at 2 months at the temperature of 45°C (inhomogeneous appearance: greater thickening on the surface, more liquid phase underneath with perlite sedimentation).

[0154] These results demonstrate that an isoamyl laurate I cetearyl alcohol ratio less than or equal to 1 is necessary to maintain the good stability of the emulsion in the composition according to the invention.

[0155] The comparison of the antiperspirant effectiveness of formulas A1 and B1 was then performed according to a microfluidic (in vitro) protocol detailed below.

[0156] The purpose of this microfluidic protocol is to imitate, in vitro, what is happening in vivo on the armpits. It makes it possible to create an in vitro system modeling the physical model and consequently the specificity of the flows of sweat as they are produced in vivo. It thus allows qualitative observation (formation of flocks, clusters and plugs, etc.) of the effects of the active agents in solution. The formation of a plug in contact with the ducts containing sweat, on one hand, and the compound to be evaluated, on the other, indicates that the compound to be evaluated effectively blocks the passage of sweat and hence has an antiperspirant activity.

[0157] Microfluidic test protocol:

[0158] The formula tested is introduced on a microsystem made of PDMS (polydimethylsiloxane) including 4 micro-ducts (3 cm high, 1.3 cm wide and 60pm in diameter) in a controlled chamber at 25°C / 80% humidity for a standard condition. The microsystem is an SOD4 device supplied by Microfactory. Artificial sweat will be injected into these ducts at a flow rate of 0.02 pL / min and thus form the plug / precipitate present in the sweat ducts. Finally, a compressed air pressure gradient is exerted on these plugs in the ducts and once the plug has exploded at a given pressure, the antiperspirant performance of the formula may be evaluated in comparison with other control formulas. A video is recorded for 60 minutes and the interactions are observed by optical microscopy. The higher the pressure achieved to remove the plugs and the higher the success rate (percentage of blocked ducts), the more the formula can be said to have an antiperspirant performance.

[0159] Artificial sweat was prepared as follows (percentages are percentages by weight):

[0160] [Table 4]

[0161] The results of the microfluidic protocol are detailed in the table below.

[0162] [Table 5] The raw results show that formula A1 according to the invention is the most effective in terms of antiperspirant potential. Indeed, the maximum pressure measured to remove the plug present in the ducts is the highest of the 2 formulas tested with a much smaller standard deviation than for formula B1. Similarly, the success rates and overall performance are better for formula A1. Thus, it was demonstrated that adding isoamyllaurate, in an Isoamyl laurate I Cetearyl alcohol ratio less than or equal to 1 , improves the antiperspirant performance of the formula.

[0163] Example 4: Improved antiperspirant effectiveness compared to compositions comprising silicones

[0164] Comparative formula B3 below was prepared in emulsion form according to the protocol described hereinabove. It comprises silicone in dimethicone form. Its antiperspirant effectiveness was evaluated relative to that of formula A1 according to the invention from Example 1.

[0165] [Table 6]

[0166] Both formulas were tested according to the microfluidic protocol detailed in Example 3. The results of the microfluidic protocol are detailed in the table below.

[0167] [Table 7]

[0168] Under identical test conditions and at equivalent pressure, formula A1 has a higher performance and success rate than formula B3.

[0169] These results demonstrate that more pores are actually plugged following the deposition of formula A1 relative to the deposition of formula B3, which may stem from better spreading or better availability of aluminum chlorohydrate in contact with sweat proteins.

[0170] Example 5: Effect of silicones vs. isoamylaurate under extreme conditions

[0171] Comparative formulas B3 and B4 below were prepared in emulsion form according to the protocol described above. They comprise silicone in dimethicone form. Their antiperspirant effectiveness under extreme conditions was evaluated relative to that of formula A1 according to the invention from Example 1.

[0172] [Table 8] The formulas were tested according to the microfluidic protocol as described in Example 3 but under extreme conditions, i.e. at a temperature of 45°C and at 30% humidity.

[0173] The results of the microfluidic protocol are detailed in the table below.

[0174] [Table 9]

[0175] The comparison of the results obtained for formulas B4 and B3 shows that the antiperspirant performance of these formulas decreases when the quantity of aluminum is reduced (B4 vs. B3).

[0176] With the same quantity of aluminum salt, formula A1 comprising isoamyl laurate makes it possible to obtain superior performance (A1 vs B3). The performance of formula A1 is also superior to formula B4 comprising more aluminum salt (A1 vs B4).

[0177] Example 6: Effect of cetearyl alcohol polyethylene glycol ethers

[0178] Formula A6 according to the invention and comparative formula C1 below were prepared in emulsion form.

[0179] [Table 10]

[0180] Composition A6 according to the invention exhibits a good stability at 2 months both at temperature and at 45°C according to the protocol described in Example 1. Comparative formula C1 does not form an emulsion but is in the form of a transparent liquid without becoming viscous.

[0181] Example 7: Evaluation of antiperspirant effectiveness at 7 days

[0182] The objective of this study is to evaluate the performance of an emulsion roll-on with a formula AO comprising 13% by weight of aluminum chlorohydrate over a period of 7 days, in a standard gravimetric protocol.

[0183] [Table 11]

[0184] The protocol for the evaluation of antiperspirant effectiveness is identical to that from Example 4 hereinabove, the gravimetric evaluation of the quantity of sweat being evaluated at Baseline and then 7 days after the 4th application. Results

[0185] [Table 12]

[0186] The Z score is significantly different from the threshold z< 100%, conveying a reduction in the quantities of sweat, and therefore antiperspirant effectiveness in Europe. Example 8: Evaluation of sensory properties by "soaping effect"

[0187] Formula A7 according to the invention and comparative formula C2 below were prepared in emulsion form using the protocol described in example 1.

[0188] [Table 13]

[0189] EVALUATION PROTOCOL

[0190] White traces and / or whitish film presences during the application of the formula are evaluated by a panel of experts. In order to evaluate the presence of white traces, 50 L of the formula are collected using a micropipette and then applied on half the back of one hand. The formula is then spread out with the fingers in a continuous, vigorous massage for 5 seconds, using index and middle fingers.

[0191] Before each evaluation, the skin surfaces where the test is to be conducted, and the fingers, are washed with soap.

[0192] The presence of “soaping” sensory properties, evidenced by the presence of white traces and / or whitish film during the application, is evaluated on a continuous scale ranging from "low" to "high."

[0193] RESULTS

[0194] The results obtained with formula A7 according to the invention and comparative formula C2 are in the table below:

[0195] [Table 14]

[0196] Formula A7 according to the invention exhibits good sensory properties, as its “soaping effect” is low. To the contrary, comparative formula C2 does not meet these sensory criteria.

Claims

CLAIMS1. Antiperspirant composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium,- at least one antiperspirant agent chosen from aluminum salts and complexes,- at least one emulsifier chosen from cetearyl alcohol polyethylene glycol ethers;- isoamyl laurate;- cetearyl alcohol; and wherein the isoamyl laurate I cetearyl alcohol weight percentage ratio is less than or equal to 1.

2. Composition according to claim 1 , wherein the aluminum salts and complexes are chosen from aluminum halohydrates; aluminum halohydrates, aluminum hydroxychloride complexes with or without an amino acid, aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum chlorohydrex, aluminum chlorohydrex polyethyleneglycol complex, aluminum chlorohydrex propyleneglycol complex, aluminum dichlorohydrate, aluminum dichlorohydrex polyethyleneglycol complex, aluminum dichloroydrex propyleneglycol complex, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate, aluminum sesquichlorohydrex polyethyleneglycol complex, aluminum sesquichlorohydrex propyleneglycol complex, aluminum sulfate buffered with sodium and aluminum lactate and mixtures thereof.

3. Composition of any one of claims 1 or 2, wherein the antiperspirant agent is aluminum ch loro hydrate.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the percentage by weight of the antiperspirant agent, relative to the total weight of the composition, is from 0.1 to 25% by weight, preferably from 3 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 3 to 13% by weight.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the isoamyl laurate I cetearyl alcohol weight percentage ratio is from 0.05 to 1 , preferably from 0.05 to 0.85, more preferably from 0.05 to 0.3.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the emulsifier is chosen from ceteareth-12, ceteareth-20, ceteareth-25, cetearet-33, and mixtures thereof.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the percentage by weight of emulsifier, relative to the total weight of the composition, is from 0.01 to 5%, preferably from 0.25 to 1.25%.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the percentage by weight of isoamyl laurate, relative to the total weight of the composition, is from 0.1 to 10%, preferably from 0.5 to 2.5%, more preferably from 0.5 to 2.0%9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the percentage by weight of cetearyl alcohol, relative to the total weight of the composition, is from 0.1 to 10%, preferably from 0.5 to 2.5%.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium, as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,- from 0.1 to 25%, preferably from 3 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 3 to 13% of at least one antiperspirant agent chosen from aluminum salts and complexes;- from 0.01 % to 5%, preferably from 0.25% to 1.25% of at least one emulsifier chosen from cetearyl alcohol polyethylene glycol ethers;- from 0.1 % to 10%, preferably from 0.5% to 2.5% of isoamyl laurate;- from 0.1 % to 10%, preferably from 0.5% to 2.5% of cetearyl alcohol; and wherein the isoamyl laurate I cetearyl alcohol weight percentage ratio is less than or equal to 1 , preferably from 0.05 to 1 , more preferably from 0.05 to 0.85, and more preferably from 0.05 to 0.3.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises one or more cosmetic adjuvants chosen from waxes, softeners, antioxidants, opacifiers, stabilizers, moisturizing agents, vitamins, perfumes, preservatives, polymers, fillers and hydrophilic thickeners.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises less than 0.3% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and morepreferably less than 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of polysiloxanes or polysiloxane derivatives.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of an emulsion, a gel, a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste, a soft solid or a solid.

14. Roll-on, stick, aerosol or tube type device such that it comprises the composition according to any one of the preceding claims.

15. Cosmetic method for the treatment of human perspiration and optionally body odors resulting from perspiration, comprising the application of a composition according to one of claims 1 to 13 on the skin.

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