Ceramide dispersion composition as well as preparation method and application thereof

Abstract

The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to a ceramide dispersion composition as well as a preparation method and application thereof. The ceramide dispersion composition provided by the invention takes water as a solvent, and comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 0.25%-10.00% of ceramide and analogues thereof, 0.04%-0.5% of microfilament cellulose and 0.2%-8% of glycolipid. Ceramide has the characteristics of poor water solubility and difficulty in formulation. The microfilament cellulose and the glycolipid are compounded for a ceramide dispersion system for the first time, and under the combined action of the microfilament cellulose and the glycolipid, the obtained finished product is not prone to layering and good in stability.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, and in particular to a ceramide dispersion composition, a preparation method and an application thereof. Background Art

[0002] Ceramide is a type of amide compound formed by dehydration of long-chain fatty acids and the amino group of sphingosine, mainly including ceramide phosphorylcholine and ceramide phosphorylethanolamine. As the main component of intercellular lipids in the stratum corneum of the skin, ceramide not only acts as a second messenger molecule in the sphingomyelin pathway, but also plays an important role in the formation process of the epidermal stratum corneum. It has the functions of maintaining the skin barrier, moisturizing, anti-aging, whitening and disease treatment. Ceramide has the characteristics of poor water solubility and difficulty in formulation. The ceramide system formulated with conventional emulsifiers such as sodium lauroyl lactylate (YGN) has the problems of poor stability and easy crystallization of the finished product, which limits the application of ceramide in the cosmetic field.

[0003] In view of this, the present invention is proposed. Summary of the invention

[0004] The present invention provides a ceramide dispersion composition and a preparation method and application thereof. The ceramide dispersion composition contains microfilamentous cellulose and rhamnolipid components, and under the combined action of microfilamentous cellulose and rhamnolipid, the ceramide system provided by the present invention has good stability.

[0005] Specifically, the technical solution of the present invention is as follows:

[0006] In a first aspect, the present invention provides a ceramide dispersion composition, which uses water as a solvent and comprises, by mass percentage, 0.25%-10.00% of ceramide and its analogs, 0.04%-0.5% of microfilament cellulose and 0.2%-8% of glycolipid.

[0007] Ceramide has the characteristics of poor water solubility and difficulty in formulation. The present invention is the first to use microfilamentous cellulose and glycolipids in a ceramide dispersion system. Within the above-defined ratio range, the obtained finished product is not easy to delaminate and has good stability.

[0008] In the present invention, the glycolipid is preferably rhamnolipid. Glycolipid (especially rhamnolipid) can play an important emulsifying role in the ceramide dispersion composition of the present invention. The present invention preferably uses rhamnolipid alone as an emulsifier for the ceramide dispersion system, and through the synergy with the network structure of microfilament cellulose, the dispersion state of the water-in-oil particle bubble is more stable.

[0009] Preferably, the ceramide dispersion composition uses water as a solvent and comprises, by mass percentage, 0.25%-3.00% of ceramide and its analogs, 0.04%-0.16% of microfilament cellulose and 1.4%-8% of rhamnolipid.

[0010] More preferably, the ceramide dispersion composition uses water as a solvent and comprises, by mass percentage, 1.50%-2.50% of ceramide and its analogs, 0.06%-0.10% of microfilament cellulose and 2.5%-5% of rhamnolipid.

[0011] More preferably, the mass ratio of the microfilamentous cellulose to the rhamnolipid is 0.08:(2.5-5). The microfilamentous cellulose and rhamnolipid at this preferred ratio interact with each other and can exert a better stabilizing effect in the ceramide system.

[0012] The present invention does not particularly limit the sources of the ceramide (and its analogs), microfilament cellulose and rhamnolipid, and any raw material components obtained from conventional commercial channels in the art can be used.

[0013] Preferably, the diameter of the microfilamentous cellulose is 5-200 nm, and the length is 500 nm-100000 nm.

[0014] More preferably, the diameter of the microfilamentous cellulose is 10-100 nm and the length is 1000-50000 nm.

[0015] In the present invention, the microfilamentous cellulose can be selected from bacterial cellulose derived from fermentation or microfilamentous cellulose obtained by mechanical / chemical separation of natural cellulose.

[0016] In the preferred scheme and embodiments provided by the present invention, the microfilament cellulose is bacterial cellulose, and the diameter of the bacterial cellulose is preferably 5-200nm, more preferably 40-80nm, more preferably 40-60nm, more preferably 50nm; the length is preferably 500-100000nm, more preferably 5000-20000nm, 8000-12000nm, more preferably 10000nm.

[0017] In the preferred embodiments and embodiments provided by the present invention, the bacterial cellulose is fermented by the strain ATC301 of Bacillus fossa with a deposit number of CGMCC No. 17875. More preferably, the bacterial cellulose is prepared by the method disclosed in patent application No. 201910801923.X (diameter range is 45-55nm, length range is 8000-12000nm). The bacterial cellulose compounded with rhamnolipid of the above preferred specifications and sources is used in the ceramide dispersion system, and the finished product stability performance is better.

[0018] Furthermore, in the present invention: the ceramide and its analogs are selected from at least one of ceramide NP (ceramide 3), ceramide AP (ceramide 6), and phytosphingosine. Among them, phytosphingosine is an antibacterial and anti-inflammatory factor existing in the skin itself, which can be present in the epidermis and the surface layer of the skin as a sphingomyelin long chain (ceramide precursor naturally existing in the skin) of the ceramide main chain, has the function of skin lipid barrier, and can be used for acne care.

[0019] Preferably, the ceramide and the analogs thereof include ceramide NP, ceramide AP and phytosphingosine; the mass ratio of the ceramide NP to the ceramide AP is 0.5-2:0.5; and / or the mass ratio of the ceramide NP to the phytosphingosine is 0.5-2:0.5.

[0020] More preferably, in the present invention:

[0021] The proportion of the ceramide NP in the ceramide dispersion system is 0.50%-2.00%, preferably 0.80%-1.50%, more preferably 1.00%-1.20%; and,

[0022] The proportion of the ceramide AP in the ceramide dispersion system is 0.10%-1.00%, preferably 0.40%-0.60%, more preferably 0.50%; and,

[0023] The proportion of the phytosphingosine in the ceramide dispersion system is 0.15%-1.00%, preferably 0.40%-0.60%, and more preferably 0.50%.

[0024] The ceramide dispersion system obtained in the above preferred embodiment contains ceramide NP, ceramide AP and phytosphingosine at the same time, which can better exert the effects of the product in terms of moisturizing, anti-aging, whitening, disease prevention, etc. At the same time, the ratio of ceramide and its analogues in the above preferred embodiment helps to improve the stability of the product.

[0025] Furthermore, the ceramide dispersion system of the present invention further comprises at least one of a polyol water retaining agent, a preservative, and a skin care agent.

[0026] In the present invention, the polyol water-retaining agent has the function of skin water-retaining, and can be selected from glycerol, 1,3-butylene glycol, propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, propanediol, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diglycerol, sorbitol and other sugars that are liquid at room temperature, and can also be selected from water-soluble alkoxylated nonionic polymers such as polyethylene glycol.

[0027] In the present invention, the preservative may be selected from one or more of sodium benzoate, benzoic acid, 1,2-hexanediol, ethylhexylglycerin, and p-hydroxyacetophenone.

[0028] In the present invention, the skin care agent can further play a care role in the ceramide dispersion system based on the barrier function of skin lipids. Specifically, the skin care agent (skin functional ingredient) includes but is not limited to a viscosity enhancer, a gelling agent, a bactericide, a moisturizer, a wetting agent, a colorant, a touch enhancer, an anti-inflammatory agent, a whitening agent, an antiperspirant, an ultraviolet absorber, a cosmetic oil, etc. Among them, the cosmetic oil can be all kinds of cosmetic oils.For example: mono- or di-esters of linear and / or branched mono- and / or di-carboxylic acids having 2 to 44 carbon atoms and saturated or unsaturated linear and / or branched alcohols having 1 to 22 carbon atoms; esters of difunctional aliphatic alcohols having 2 to 36 carbon atoms and monofunctional aliphatic carboxylic acids having 1 to 22 carbon atoms; esters of long-chain aromatic carboxylic acids, such as benzoic acid esters (especially benzoic acid esters of saturated or unsaturated linear or branched alcohols having 1 to 22 carbon atoms), isostearyl benzoate or octyldodecyl benzoate; monoesters, which can be selected from methyl esters of fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and isopropyl esters, methyl laurate, methyl stearate, methyl oleate, methyl erucate, Isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl stearate or isopropyl oleate; other monoesters, including n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyl-decyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl 2-palmitate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate or erucyl oleate; esters obtained from industrial fatty alcohol fractions and industrial aliphatic carboxylic acid mixtures, such as esters of unsaturated fatty alcohols having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and saturated and unsaturated fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or other esters obtained from animal and vegetable oils; naturally occurring monoesters or wax esters mixtures of these compounds, such as monoesters or wax esters present in jojoba oil or spermaceti oil; dicarboxylic acid esters, such as di-n-butyl adipate, di-n-butyl sebacate, di(2-ethyl-hexyl) adipate, di(2-hexyldecyl) succinate or diisotridecyl azelate; glycol esters, such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di(2-ethylhexanoate), butylene glycol diisostearate and neopentyl glycol dioctanoate; fatty acid esters, such as C12-15-alkylbenzoic acid esters, dicaprylyl carbonate or diethylhexyl carbonate; long-chain triglycerides, i.e. triple esters of glycerol with three acid molecules, at least one of which is a relatively long-chain acid molecule, for example fatty acid triglycerides; natural plant Oils, such as olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm shell oil (liquid); animal oils, such as neatsfoot oil, tallow (liquid); synthetic triglycerides of caprylic / capric acid mixtures, industrial triglycerides of oleic acid, triglycerides of isostearic acid or triglycerides of palmitic / oleic acid mixtures; hydrocarbons, in particular liquid paraffins and isoparaffins, such as paraffin oil, isohexadecane, polydecene, petroleum jelly, light liquid paraffin, squalane; linear or branched fatty alcohols, such as oleyl alcohol or octyldodecanol; fatty alcohol ethers, such as dicaprylyl ether; silicone oils and waxes, such as polydimethylsiloxane, cyclomethicone; aryl-, alkyl- or alkoxy-substituted polymethylsiloxane or cyclomethicone, etc.

[0029] More preferably, in a more specific embodiment provided by the present invention: the water retaining agent is selected from glycerin; or, the preservative is selected from sodium benzoate; or, the skin care agent is selected from at least one of phytosterols, cholesterol, and palmitic acid.

[0030] The present invention does not particularly limit the specific sources of the polyol water-retaining agent, preservative and skin care agent, and any raw material components obtained from conventional commercial channels in the field can be used.

[0031] In a second aspect, the present invention provides a method for preparing the aforementioned ceramide dispersion composition, comprising the following steps:

[0032] S1, mixing the ceramide and its analogs to obtain an oil phase;

[0033] S2, mixing the glycolipid, the microfilamentous cellulose and water to obtain an aqueous phase;

[0034] S3. Mix the oil phase and the water phase, and homogenize at 70-80° C. and 2000-8000 rpm for 10-30 min to obtain the ceramide dispersion composition.

[0035] Preferably, the mixing temperature in step S1 or step S2 is 70-80°C.

[0036] Preferably, the homogenization speed in step S3 is 5000-7000 rpm, more preferably 6000 rpm.

[0037] Preferably, the homogenization time in step S3 is 15-25 min, more preferably 20 min.

[0038] The preparation method provided by the present invention is simple, can quickly obtain a ceramide dispersion composition, and has relatively more stable properties.

[0039] In a third aspect, the present invention provides a cosmetic.

[0040] In the present invention, the cosmetic contains the ceramide dispersion composition, and corresponding functional ingredients may be further added according to needs.

[0041] The cosmetics of the present invention are stable in nature and not easy to delaminate without adding other stabilizers.

[0042] Beneficial effects:

[0043] The present invention provides a ceramide dispersion composition, a preparation method and an application thereof. The ceramide dispersion composition uses water as a solvent and includes, by mass percentage, 0.25%-10.00% of ceramide and its analogs, 0.04%-0.5% of microfilament cellulose and 0.2%-8% of glycolipid. Ceramide has the characteristics of poor water solubility and difficulty in formulation. The present invention is the first to use microfilament cellulose and glycolipid in a ceramide dispersion system. Under the joint action of microfilament cellulose and glycolipid, the obtained finished product is not easy to delaminate and has good stability. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0044] The following examples are used to illustrate the present invention, but are not intended to limit the scope of the present invention. Without departing from the spirit and essence of the present invention, modifications or substitutions made to the methods, steps or conditions of the present invention all fall within the scope of protection of the present invention.

[0045] Unless otherwise specified, the microfilamentous cellulose used in each embodiment of the present invention is bacterial cellulose prepared by the method disclosed in reference patent application No. 201910801923.X. At the same time, the experimental materials, reagents, instruments, etc. used in the examples of the present invention can be obtained commercially; all technical means in the examples of the present invention are conventional means well known to those skilled in the art.

[0046] Example 1

[0047] This embodiment provides a ceramide dispersion composition, and its formula (in mass percentage) is as follows:

[0048]

[0049] This embodiment also provides a method for preparing the above-mentioned ceramide dispersion composition, and the specific preparation steps are as follows:

[0050] (1) mixing ceramide AP, ceramide NP, phytosphingosine, palmitic acid, and sodium lauroyl lactylate (YGN) at 70-80° C. to obtain an oil phase;

[0051] (2) dissolving rhamnolipid, microfilament cellulose solution, benzoic acid and glycerol in water, stirring well, and heating to 70-80° C. to obtain an aqueous phase;

[0052] (3) Add the obtained aqueous phase to the oil phase and homogenize at 6000 rpm for 20 min at 70-80° C. After high-speed homogenization, stir at a low speed (200 rpm) and drop to room temperature to obtain a ceramide dispersion composition.

[0053] Example 2

[0054] This embodiment provides a ceramide dispersion composition, and its formula (in mass percentage) is as follows:

[0055]

[0056]

[0057] The preparation method of the ceramide dispersion composition described in this example is based on Example 1 (sodium lauroyl lactylate is not added to the oil phase).

[0058] Example 3

[0059] This embodiment provides a ceramide dispersion composition, and its formula (in mass percentage) is as follows:

[0060]

[0061] The preparation method of the ceramide dispersion composition described in this example is based on Example 1 (adding phytosterols to the oil phase).

[0062] Example 4

[0063] This embodiment provides a ceramide dispersion composition, and its formula (in mass percentage) is as follows:

[0064]

[0065] The preparation method of the ceramide dispersion composition described in this example is based on Example 1 (sodium lauroyl lactylate is not added to the oil phase, and phytosterols are added).

[0066] Example 5

[0067] This embodiment provides a ceramide dispersion composition, and its formula (in mass percentage) is as follows:

[0068]

[0069]

[0070] The preparation method of the ceramide dispersion composition described in this example is similar to that of Example 1 (adding cholesterol to the oil phase).

[0071] Example 6

[0072] This embodiment provides a ceramide dispersion composition, and its formula (in mass percentage) is as follows:

[0073]

[0074] The preparation method of the ceramide dispersion composition described in this example is based on Example 1 (sodium lauroyl lactylate is not added to the oil phase, and cholesterol is added at the same time).

[0075] Example 7

[0076] This embodiment provides a ceramide dispersion composition, and its formula (in mass percentage) is as follows:

[0077]

[0078]

[0079] The preparation method of the ceramide dispersion composition described in this example is based on Example 1 (sodium lauroyl lactylate is not added to the oil phase).

[0080] Example 8

[0081] This embodiment provides a ceramide dispersion composition, and its formula (in mass percentage) is as follows:

[0082]

[0083] The preparation method of the ceramide dispersion composition described in this example is based on Example 1 (sodium lauroyl lactylate is not added to the oil phase).

[0084] Example 9

[0085] This embodiment provides a ceramide dispersion composition, and its formula (in mass percentage) is as follows:

[0086]

[0087]

[0088] The preparation method of the ceramide dispersion composition described in this example is based on Example 1 (sodium lauroyl lactylate is not added to the oil phase).

[0089] Example 10

[0090] This embodiment provides a ceramide dispersion composition, which is different from that of embodiment 1 only in that the source of microfilamentous cellulose is different.

[0091] The microfilamentous cellulose used in this example was purchased from Guilin Qihong Technology Co., Ltd., with a diameter of 50-100 nm and a length of >20000 nm.

[0092] The preparation method of the ceramide dispersion composition described in this embodiment is referred to Example 1.

[0093] Comparative Example 1

[0094] This comparative example provides a ceramide dispersion composition, and its formula (in mass percentage) is as follows:

[0095]

[0096] The preparation method of the ceramide dispersion composition in this comparative example refers to Example 1 (sodium lauroyl lactylate is not added to the oil phase; rhamnolipid is not added to the water phase).

[0097] Comparative Example 2

[0098] This comparative example provides a ceramide dispersion composition, and its formula (in mass percentage) is as follows:

[0099]

[0100] The preparation method of the ceramide dispersion composition in this comparative example refers to Example 1 (sodium lauroyl lactylate is not added to the oil phase; microfilamentous cellulose is not added to the water phase).

[0101] Comparative Example 3

[0102] This comparative example provides a ceramide dispersion composition, and its formula (in mass percentage) is as follows:

[0103]

[0104] The preparation method of the ceramide dispersion composition in this comparative example refers to Example 1 (rhamnolipid and microfilament cellulose are not added to the aqueous phase).

[0105] Comparative Example 4

[0106] This comparative example provides a ceramide dispersion composition, and its formula (in mass percentage) is as follows:

[0107]

[0108] The preparation method of the ceramide dispersion composition in this comparative example is based on Example 1 (rhamnolipid is not added to the aqueous phase).

[0109] Comparative Example 5

[0110] This comparative example provides a ceramide dispersion composition, and its formula (in mass percentage) is as follows:

[0111]

[0112] The preparation method of the ceramide dispersion composition in this comparative example is based on Example 1 (no microfilamentous cellulose is added to the aqueous phase).

[0113] Comparative Example 6

[0114] This comparative example provides a ceramide dispersion composition, and its formula (in mass percentage) is as follows:

[0115]

[0116] The preparation method of the ceramide dispersion composition in this comparative example is based on Example 1 (sodium lauroyl lactylate is not added to the oil phase).

[0117] Comparative Example 7

[0118] This comparative example provides a ceramide dispersion composition, and its formula (in mass percentage) is as follows:

[0119]

[0120] The preparation method of the ceramide dispersion composition described in this comparative example is referred to Example 1.

[0121] Experimental Example 1

[0122] This experimental example uses the products prepared in Examples 1-10 and Comparative Examples 1-7 to conduct stability tests. The specific method is as follows:

[0123] The prepared product was placed in a 50°C constant temperature box, sealed and protected from light, and observed for stratification.

[0124] If delamination occurs within 30 days, it is considered that the stability test has not been passed and the positioning is Fail;

[0125] If it can be stable for 30 days without delamination, it is considered to have passed the stability test and is considered qualified;

[0126] If it can be stable without stratification for 30 days, and the time without stratification is extended by 10 days, a plus sign will be added on the basis of the qualified Pass positioning.

[0127] The specific judgment criteria are shown in Table 1.

[0128] Table 1 Stability test judgment criteria

[0129] Delamination within 30 days Fail Unstratified for more than 30 days Pass Unstratified for more than 40 days P+ Unstratified for more than 50 days P++ Unstratified for more than 60 days P+++

[0130] The experimental results are shown in Table 2.

[0131] Table 2 Stability test results

[0132]

[0133]

[0134] Although the present invention has been described in detail above with general descriptions and specific embodiments, it is obvious to those skilled in the art that some modifications or improvements may be made thereto based on the present invention. Therefore, these modifications or improvements made without departing from the spirit of the present invention all fall within the scope of protection claimed by the present invention.

Claims

1. A ceramide dispersion composition, characterized in that: The ceramide dispersion composition uses water as a solvent and comprises, by mass percentage, 0.25%-10.00% of ceramide and its analogs, 0.04%-0.5% of microfilament cellulose and 0.2%-8% of glycolipid.

2. The ceramide dispersion composition according to claim 1, characterized in that The diameter of the microfilamentous cellulose is 5-200nm, and the length is 500nm-100000nm; Preferably, the microfilamentous cellulose has a diameter of 10-100 nm and a length of 1000-50000 nm.

3. The ceramide dispersion composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that The ceramide dispersion composition uses water as a solvent and includes, by mass percentage, 0.25%-3.00% of ceramide and its analogs, 0.04%-0.16% of microfilament cellulose and 1.4%-8% of rhamnolipid; Preferably, the ceramide dispersion composition uses water as a solvent and comprises, by mass percentage, 1.50%-2.50% of ceramide and its analogs, 0.06%-0.10% of microfilament cellulose and 2.5%-5% of rhamnolipid.

4. The ceramide dispersion composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that The mass ratio of the microfilament cellulose to the rhamnolipid is 0.08:(2.5-5).

5. The ceramide dispersion composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that The ceramide and its analogs are selected from at least one of ceramide NP, ceramide AP and phytosphingosine.

6. The ceramide dispersion composition according to claim 5, characterized in that The ceramide and its analogs include ceramide NP, ceramide AP and phytosphingosine; the mass ratio of the ceramide NP to the ceramide AP is 0.5-2:0.5; and / or the mass ratio of the ceramide NP to the phytosphingosine is 0.5-2:0.

5.

7. The ceramide dispersion composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that It also includes at least one of a polyol water retaining agent, a preservative, and a skin care agent.

8. The ceramide dispersion composition according to claim 7, characterized in that: The polyol water retaining agent is selected from glycerol; Alternatively, the preservative is selected from sodium benzoate; Alternatively, the skin care agent is selected from at least one of phytosterols, cholesterol and palmitic acid.

9. The method for preparing the ceramide dispersion composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that: The steps include: S1, mixing the ceramide and its analogs to obtain an oil phase; S2, mixing the glycolipid, the microfilamentous cellulose and water to obtain an aqueous phase; S3. Mix the oil phase and the water phase, and homogenize at 70-80° C. and 2000-8000 rpm for 10-30 min to obtain the ceramide dispersion composition.

10. A cosmetic, characterized in that The cosmetic contains the ceramide dispersion composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9.

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