A mild and non-irritating gouache cream and preparation method thereof

Abstract

The present application relates to the field of cosmetics, and more specifically, it relates to a mild and non-irritating gouache cream and a preparation method thereof. A mild and non-irritating gouache cream, the components of which include 8-30% polymethylsilsesquioxane, 9-30% silicone oil, 1-10% moisturizer, 0-0.5% thickener, 0-0.5% triethanolamine, 0-4% preservative, and the remainder of deionized water. The gouache cream of the present application has a high content of polymethylsilsesquioxane, has a good dispersing and emulsifying effect on the emulsion, and thus does not need to add a surfactant emulsifier, greatly reduces the irritation of the product to the skin, and makes the product milder.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of cosmetics, and more specifically, to a mild and non-irritating water-based powder cream and a preparation method thereof. Background Art

[0002] Cosmetics refer to a kind of fine chemical products that people apply to the human body surface by smearing, spraying, etc. in order to maintain a good condition. There are two main types of cream cosmetics. One is prepared by dispersing the oil phase in the water phase, which is an oil-in-water type cosmetic, and the other is prepared by dispersing the water phase in the oil phase, which is an oil-in-water type cosmetic. Both types of cream cosmetics are prepared by mixing the oil phase and the water phase. However, since the oil phase and the water phase themselves are immiscible, in actual production, it is often necessary to add an emulsifier to the product to ensure the stability of the product.

[0003] When preparing cream cosmetics, factories often use surfactants as emulsifiers. Surfactants can significantly reduce the surface tension of the solution system. They have specific hydrophilic and lipophilic groups. The hydrophilic groups are adsorbed on the surface of the water phase, and the lipophilic groups are adsorbed on the surface of the oil phase. They are oriented on the surface of the solution to form an interfacial film, thereby reducing the surface tension between the two phases, making the water phase and the oil phase dispersed with each other, and thus emulsifying the mixture, which effectively improves the stability of cream cosmetics.

[0004] However, since surfactants have a certain irritation, cream cosmetics prepared by using surfactants as emulsifiers have a certain irritation to human skin. Therefore, it is very necessary to develop and produce a mild and non-irritating cosmetic. Summary of the invention

[0005] In order to reduce the irritation of cosmetics to human skin and improve the skin feel of cosmetics, the present application provides a mild and non-irritating gouache cream and a preparation method thereof.

[0006] In the first aspect, the present application provides a mild and non-irritating water-based powder cream, which adopts the following technical solution:

[0007] A mild and non-irritating water-based powder cream, comprising the following components in percentage by weight:

[0008] Polymethylsilsesquioxane 8-30%;

[0009] Silicone oil 9-30%;

[0010] Moisturizer 1-10%;

[0011] Thickener 0-0.5%;

[0012] Triethanolamine 0-0.5%;

[0013] Preservatives 0-4%;

[0014] The balance is deionized water.

[0015] By adopting the above technical scheme, in the formula components of the gouache cream of the present application, polymethyl silsesquioxane is dispersed in the silicone oil, and then forms a layer of interface particle film in the process of mixing with the water phase, which blocks the spatial aggregation between the emulsion droplets. At the same time, due to the repulsion and spatial steric hindrance between the particles, the stability of the emulsion is improved. The present application uses polymethyl silsesquioxane with a content of 8-30%. The polymethyl silsesquioxane at this content has a good emulsification effect on the emulsion, and no additional surfactant emulsifier is required. Since the raw material of polymethyl silsesquioxane has almost no irritation to human skin, the irritation of the product to human skin is greatly reduced; and by adding the above content of polymethyl silsesquioxane, due to its high optical diffuse reflectance coefficient, the product's soft light wrinkle removal ability is improved, and the smoothness of the gouache cream is improved.

[0016] Preferably, the weight percentage of the polymethylsilsesquioxane is 10-20%.

[0017] By adopting the above technical solution, when the weight percentage of polymethylsilsesquioxane is less than 10%, a dense interface particle film cannot be formed at the oil-water interface, and insufficient emulsification is likely to occur, which weakens the stability of the product. When the weight percentage of polymethylsilsesquioxane is higher than 20%, insufficient dispersion of micropowder may occur, thereby affecting the smoothness of the product. When the weight percentage of polymethylsilsesquioxane is 10-20%, a dense interface particle film can be formed at the oil-water interface, which significantly improves the stability of the product and gives the product a smooth skin feel.

[0018] Preferably, the particle size of the polymethylsilsesquioxane is 4-7 μm.

[0019] By adopting the above technical solution, the 4-7μm polymethylsilsesquioxane is uniformly spherical, and the particles are easy to move relative to each other, making it easier to spread during use, making the product smoother and drier. In addition, during the spreading process, the micropowder fills the fine lines at the same time, bringing a sensory skin-grinding effect and improving the functionality of the product.

[0020] Preferably, the silicone oil comprises octyl polymethylsiloxane and polydimethylsiloxane, and the weight ratio of polydimethylsiloxane to octyl polymethylsiloxane is 1:(1.2-2).

[0021] By adopting the above technical solution, octyl polymethicone and polydimethylsiloxane with similar functional groups are used to disperse polymethylsilsesquioxane, so that the dispersion is more complete, the emulsification effect of the product is guaranteed, and the stability of the product is improved. In addition, polydimethylsiloxane and octyl polymethicone have better spreadability, making the product more refreshing and effectively removing greasy feeling, thereby improving the skin feel.

[0022] Preferably, the thickener is one or more of carbomer, xanthan gum, and acrylic acid (esters) / C10-30 alkyl acrylate cross-linked polymer.

[0023] By adopting the above technical solution, the product can maintain a moderate viscosity, ensure the fluidity and spreadability of the product, and improve the product usage experience.

[0024] Preferably, the thickener is acrylic acid (ester) / C10-30 alkyl acrylate cross-linked polymer.

[0025] By adopting the above technical solution, the acrylic acid (ester) / C10-30 alkyl acrylate cross-linked polymer has a good thickening effect, and forms a synergistic promotion effect with the emulsification of polymethylsilsesquioxane, which helps to further improve the stability of the product.

[0026] Preferably, the preservative comprises caprylyl glycol and 1,2-hexanediol, and the weight ratio of caprylyl glycol to 1,2-hexanediol is 1:(1-3).

[0027] By adopting the above technical solutions, caprylyl glycol has a better antiseptic effect, but it is easy to cause skin tingling and fever during use. The milder 1,2-hexanediol has a poor antiseptic effect, and when used in large quantities, the skin feels sticky. Through the reasonable compounding of caprylyl glycol and 1,2-hexanediol, the product is made milder and more refreshing while ensuring the antibacterial activity of the product.

[0028] Preferably, the moisturizer is one or more of glycerol, hyaluronic acid and water-soluble jojoba oil.

[0029] By adopting the above technical solution, the above moisturizer can effectively reduce the evaporation of water and absorb water from the environment, thereby supplying water to the skin, effectively ensuring the moisture content of the skin, and reducing the dryness caused by transepidermal water loss of the skin.

[0030] Preferably, the moisturizing agent comprises glycerol and water-soluble jojoba oil, and the weight ratio of the water-soluble jojoba oil to the glycerol is 1:(0.8-1).

[0031] By adopting the above technical solution, when used, the water-soluble jojoba oil can form a protective film on the skin surface to prevent moisture loss and improve the moisturizing effect of the product. When used in combination with glycerin, it can exert a better moisturizing effect.

[0032] In a second aspect, the present application also provides a method for preparing a mild and non-irritating gouache cream, using the following technical solution:

[0033] A method for preparing a mild and non-irritating gouache cream comprises the following steps:

[0034] S1, stirring polymethylsilsesquioxane and silicone oil to obtain a mixture A;

[0035] S2, dispersing a moisturizer and a thickener in deionized water to obtain a mixture B;

[0036] S3, adding mixture B to mixture A and stirring to obtain mixture C;

[0037] S4, adding triethanolamine to the mixture C, stirring evenly, to obtain a mixture D;

[0038] S5, adding the preservative into the mixture D and stirring evenly to obtain the gouache cream.

[0039] By adopting the above technical scheme, the process flow of the present application is simple, which is convenient for large-scale production, and through step-by-step mixing, the dispersibility of each raw material in the product system is improved, which makes it easier to give full play to the efficacy of each raw material and ensures product quality.

[0040] In summary, this application has the following beneficial effects:

[0041] 1. Since the application increases the amount of polymethyl silsesquioxane in the gouache cream, and since polymethyl silsesquioxane has emulsifying properties, it replaces the surfactant emulsifier component in the traditional cream, the resulting product is less irritating and milder to the skin, and since polymethyl silsesquioxane has optical soft-focus properties, the soft light wrinkle removal effect of the product is improved.

[0042] 2. In the present application, it is preferred to use polymethylsilsesquioxane with a particle size of 4-7 μm, a narrow particle size distribution, a uniform spherical shape, and a weight content of 10%-20%. This is because the dispersion and emulsification properties of polymethylsilsesquioxane are relatively good at this weight content, and the polymethylsilsesquioxane is evenly distributed at the above particle size, the particle size in the product is smaller, which makes the product less rubbing against the skin, and improves the product's application feel on the skin, effectively improving the product's optical soft light wrinkle removal effect and smoothness. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0043] The present application is further described in detail below in conjunction with embodiments and comparative examples.

[0044] Example

[0045] Example 1

[0046] A mild and non-irritating water-powder cream, the components and their corresponding weights are shown in Table 1, and the cream is prepared by the following steps:

[0047] S1, mixing polymethylsilsesquioxane and silicone oil, and stirring at 80° C. and 50 r / min for 15 min to obtain a mixture A;

[0048] Among them, the particle size of polymethylsilsesquioxane is 11 μm, purchased from MOMENTIVE, model number is Tospearl 1110A; the silicone oil is octyl polymethylsiloxane, purchased from MOMENTIVE, brand number is Silsoft 034fluid;

[0049] S2, mixing the thickener, the humectant and the deionized water, stirring and mixing at 85° C. and 50 r / min for 15 min to obtain a mixture B;

[0050] Among them, the thickener is carboxymethyl cellulose and the humectant is polyethylene glycol-8;

[0051] S3, adding mixture B into mixture A, stirring and homogenizing at 85°C and 2000 r / min for 5 min to obtain mixture C;

[0052] S4, adding triethanolamine to the mixture C, stirring at 40 r / min for 15 min to obtain a mixture D;

[0053] S5, adding the preservative to the mixture D, stirring at 40 r / min for 20 min, to obtain a gouache cream;

[0054] Among them, the preservative is caprylyl glycol.

[0055] Example 2-3

[0056] A mild and non-irritating water-powder cream, which is different from Example 1 in that the components and their corresponding weights are shown in Table 1.

[0057]

[0058]

[0059] Table 1

[0060] Embodiment 4-7

[0061] A mild and non-irritating water-based powder cream, which is different from Example 2 in that the amounts of polymethylsilsesquioxane and deionized water are as shown in Table 2.

[0062]

[0063] Table 2

[0064] Embodiment 8-9

[0065] A mild and non-irritating gouache cream, which is different from Example 4 in that the particle size of polymethylsilsesquioxane is as shown in Table 3.

[0066]

[0067] Table 3

[0068] The polymethylsilsesquioxane in Example 8 was purchased from MOMENTIVE, and its model number was Tospearl 120A; the polymethylsilsesquioxane in Example 9 was purchased from MOMENTIVE, and its model number was Tospearl 3000A.

[0069] Examples 10-14

[0070] A mild and non-irritating water-based powder cream, which is different from Example 9 in that the silicone oil is used differently, specifically as follows

[0071] As shown in Table 4.

[0072]

[0073]

[0074] Table 4

[0075] Embodiment 15

[0076] A mild and non-irritating gouache cream, which is different from Example 12 in that the thickener is xanthan gum.

[0077] Example 16

[0078] A mild and non-irritating gouache cream, which is different from Example 12 in that the thickener is a mixture of xanthan gum and carbomer, and the weight ratio of xanthan gum to carbomer is 1:1.5.

[0079] Embodiment 17

[0080] A mild and non-irritating gouache cream, which is different from Example 12 in that the thickener is acrylic acid (ester) / C10-30 alkyl acrylate cross-linked polymer.

[0081] Examples 18-22

[0082] A mild and non-irritating water-based powder cream, which is different from Example 17 in that the use of preservatives is different, as shown in Table 5.

[0083]

[0084] Table 5

[0085] Embodiment 23

[0086] A mild and non-irritating water-based powder cream, which is different from Example 20 in that the moisturizing agent is glycerin.

[0087] Embodiment 24

[0088] A mild and non-irritating gouache cream, which is different from Example 20 in that the moisturizer is a mixture of glycerol and hyaluronic acid, and the weight ratio of glycerol to hyaluronic acid is 1:0.02.

[0089] Embodiment 25

[0090] A mild and non-irritating water-based powder cream, which is different from Example 20 in that the moisturizer is a mixture of glycerin and water-soluble jojoba oil, and the weight ratio of glycerin to water-soluble jojoba oil is 1:0.8.

[0091] Embodiment 26

[0092] A mild and non-irritating gouache cream, which is different from Example 20 in that the moisturizer is a mixture of glycerin and water-soluble jojoba oil, and the weight ratio of glycerin to water-soluble jojoba oil is 1:0.9.

[0093] Embodiment 27

[0094] A mild and non-irritating gouache cream, which is different from Example 20 in that the moisturizer is a mixture of glycerin and water-soluble jojoba oil, and the weight ratio of glycerin to water-soluble jojoba oil is 1:1.

[0095] Comparative Example

[0096] Comparative Examples 1-4

[0097] A water-based powder cream, which is different from Example 3 in that the components and their corresponding weights are shown in Table 6;

[0098]

[0099] Table 6

[0100] When the gouache cream was prepared according to the formula recorded in Table 6 above, it was found that the formulas recorded in Comparative Examples 3 and 4 could not successfully prepare gouache cream products. The reasons may be: no surfactant was added in Comparative Example 3, and the content of polymethylsilsesquioxane was relatively low, which could not produce sufficient emulsification and dispersion effect on the gouache cream; while the content of polymethylsilsesquioxane in Comparative Example 4 was too high, which was difficult to fully disperse in the silicone oil, affecting the stability of the formula.

[0101] Performance testing

[0102] (I) Skin irritation test

[0103] 1. Test subjects

[0104] 232 white female rabbits weighing 2.0-3.0 kg were selected for experimental use and randomly divided into 58 groups (29 groups for acute skin irritation test and 29 groups for multiple skin irritation test), with 4 rabbits in each group.

[0105] 2. Test methods and results

[0106] The methods and procedures of the acute skin irritation test and the repeated skin irritation test were carried out in accordance with the methods and procedures of the skin irritation test in the "Cosmetic Hygiene Standards 2007 Edition". The results of the acute skin irritation test and the repeated skin irritation test are detailed in Table 7 below.

[0107] (II) Wrinkle removal performance test

[0108] 1. Test subjects

[0109] A total of 290 female volunteers aged 40-50 years with obvious outer canthus wrinkles were selected and randomly divided into 29 groups, with 10 people in each group.

[0110] 2. Test Method

[0111] Before the test, the volunteers cleaned their faces with water, wiped them dry with a non-dust absorbent paper towel, and sat quietly for 20 minutes. During the sitting period, the volunteers were required to remain relaxed and avoid touching their facial skin. After the sitting period, the water-powder cream prepared in the embodiment and the comparative example (the volunteers in the same group used the water-powder cream prepared in the same embodiment or comparative example) was applied to the wrinkles at the corners of the eyes of the volunteers, and the coating amount was (2.0±0.1) mg / cm 2 The wrinkle concealing effect was measured by Primoslite (GFM) image analysis, and the wrinkle reduction rate was used to represent the wrinkle concealing effect. The results within the same group were averaged.

[0112] 3. Evaluation Criteria

[0113] Wrinkle reduction rate = (number of wrinkles before use - number of wrinkles after use) / number of wrinkles before use * 100%;

[0114] The greater the wrinkle reduction rate, the better the wrinkle hiding effect of the gouache cream is. The test results are shown in Table 7 below.

[0115] (III) Smoothness test

[0116] 1. Test subjects

[0117] 290 smooth plastic sheets of the same material were selected as samples and randomly divided into 29 groups, with 10 sheets in each group.

[0118] 2. Test Method

[0119] The water powder cream obtained in the embodiment and the comparative example was applied to the surfaces of the samples of different groups, respectively, with a coating amount of (2.0±0.1) mg / cm 2 After coating, a friction tester (purchased from Kato-TechCo, model kes-se) was used to test the dynamic friction coefficient of the sample. The average value of the results in the same group was taken and recorded as the average dynamic friction coefficient.

[0120] 3. Evaluation criteria and test results

[0121] The smaller the average dynamic friction coefficient is, the smoother the product is when used. The test results are shown in Table 7 below.

[0122]

[0123]

[0124]

[0125] Table 7

[0126] (IV) Sensory experiment

[0127] 1. Test subjects

[0128] A total of 290 female volunteers aged 30-40 were selected and randomly divided into 29 groups, with 10 people in each group.

[0129] 2. Test Method

[0130] The volunteers applied the gouache creams of Examples 1-27 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 on the skin surface in turn, and scored the irritation, refreshing feeling and soft light wrinkle removal effect of the gouache creams 20 minutes later, and the average value of the results within the same group was taken.

[0131] 3. Evaluation criteria and test results

[0132] ①Irritation rating:

[0133] Strong irritation, severe erythema (purple red) to slight eschar formation, severe edema (skin bulge of about 1 mm, enlarged range), scored as 1 point;

[0134] Strong irritation, moderate to severe erythema, moderate edema (skin bulge of about 1 mm), scored as 2 points;

[0135] Weak irritation, obvious erythema, and slight edema (clear outline of skin bulges) were scored as 3 points;

[0136] Weak irritation, slight erythema (barely visible), and slight edema (barely visible) were scored as 4 points;

[0137] No irritation, no erythema, no edema, scored as 5 points;

[0138] ② Smoothness score:

[0139] Very bad, with obvious graininess, rough feel, and difficult to push, scored as 1 point;

[0140] Poor, slightly grainy, not easy to push, scored 2 points;

[0141] Normal, slightly grainy, easy to spread, scored 3 points;

[0142] Good, relatively refreshing, no graininess, easy to spread, scored 4 points;

[0143] Very good, refreshing, no graininess, easy to spread, scored 5 points;

[0144] ③Soft light wrinkle removal rating:

[0145] Poor wrinkle concealment effect, failure to effectively conceal wrinkles, scored as 1 point; poor wrinkle concealment effect, a small number of wrinkles were concealed, scored as 2 points;

[0146] The wrinkle concealment effect is average, and some wrinkles are concealed, which is scored as 3 points;

[0147] The wrinkle hiding effect is good, and wrinkles are barely visible after application, which is scored as 4 points; the wrinkle hiding effect is good, and there are no obvious wrinkles after application, which is scored as 5 points; the results of the irritation, smoothness and soft light wrinkle removal are detailed in Table 8 below.

[0148]

[0149]

[0150] Table 8

[0151] Compared with Comparative Examples 1 and 2, Examples 1-27 do not contain surfactant emulsifiers, and by increasing the amount of polymethylsilsesquioxane as an emulsifying component, not only the stability of the product is ensured, but also the irritation of the product to human skin is greatly reduced. It can be seen from the data in Tables 7 and 8 above that the skin irritation intensity of Examples 1-27 is significantly reduced, and in the sensory test, the volunteers scored the product irritation higher, that is, most volunteers believed that the product was non-irritating.

[0152] Examples 1-3 investigated the effects of components and contents on product performance. Combined with the data in Tables 7 and 8 above, it can be seen that compared with Example 2, the polymethylsilsesquioxane content in Example 1 is reduced, resulting in a reduced wrinkle reduction rate, an increased average dynamic friction coefficient, and a decreased smoothness; the polymethylsilsesquioxane content in Example 3 is increased, the average dynamic friction coefficient is increased, and the wrinkle reduction rate is reduced. In summary, the performance of the gouache cream prepared in Example 2 is relatively superior.

[0153] The difference between Example 2 and Examples 4-7 is the different content of polymethylsilsesquioxane. Combining the data in Table 7 and Table 8 above, it can be seen that compared with Example 4, the polysilsesquioxane content in Examples 5 and 6 is reduced, resulting in a decreased sense of smoothness, a decreased wrinkle reduction rate, and an increased dynamic friction coefficient. The polysilsesquioxane content in Examples 2 and 7 is increased, resulting in a larger dynamic friction coefficient and a decreased wrinkle reduction rate. In addition, the wrinkle reduction rate of Examples 2, 4, and 5 is improved compared to that of Examples 6 and 7, and the soft light wrinkle removal performance is better.

[0154] Taking Example 4 as a control, the particle sizes of polymethylsilsesquioxane in Examples 8 and 9 are different. Combining the data in Table 7 and Table 8 above, it can be seen that compared with Examples 4 and 8, Example 9 has better wrinkle removal effect and better smoothness performance.

[0155] Taking Example 9 as a control, the proportions of octyl polymethylsiloxane and polydimethylsiloxane in Examples 10-14 are different. Combining the data in Table 7 and Table 8 above, it can be seen that the products made in Examples 11-13 have improved wrinkle reduction rates, better product smoothness, and better skin feel. Among them, Example 12 has the best performance.

[0156] Compared with Example 12, Examples 15-17 use different substances as thickeners. Combined with the data in Tables 7 and 8 above, it can be seen that after using the product made from Example 17, the wrinkle reduction rate is higher, the dynamic friction coefficient is smaller, and the gouache cream is smoother and more supple.

[0157] By comparing Examples 17-22, it can be seen that the ratios of 1,2-hexanediol and octyl glycol are different in the six groups of experiments. Combining the data in Tables 7 and 8 above, it can be seen that compared with Example 17, the irritation of Examples 18-22 is reduced. Compared with Example 20, the content of 1,2-ethylene glycol in the products made in Examples 21 and 22 increases, the dynamic friction coefficient increases, and the smoothness of the product is affected; the content of octyl glycol in the products made in Examples 18 and 19 increases, and the irritation of the product to the skin increases. Taking the above into consideration, the comprehensive performance of the products made in Examples 19-21 is better, among which the comprehensive performance of the product made in Example 20 is the best.

[0158] By comparing Example 20 with Examples 23-27, it can be seen that the moisturizers used are different. Combining the data in Table 7 and Table 8 above, it can be seen that Examples 23-27 have better moisturizing effects, have a certain mitigating effect on irritation, and further reduce product irritation.

[0159] This specific embodiment is merely an explanation of the present application and is not a limitation of the present application. After reading this specification, those skilled in the art may make modifications to the present embodiment without any creative contribution as needed, but such modifications are protected by the patent law as long as they are within the scope of the claims of the present application.

Claims

1. A mild and non-irritating gouache cream, characterized in that: It is composed of the following components in weight percentage: Polymethylsilsesquioxane 10-20%; Silicone oil 9-30%; Moisturizer 1-10%; Thickener 0-0.5%; Triethanolamine 0-0.5%; Preservatives 0-4%; The balance is deionized water; The particle size of the polymethylsilsesquioxane is 4-7 μm; The thickener is one or more of carbomer, xanthan gum, and acrylic acid (esters) / C10-30 alkyl acrylate cross-linked polymer; The moisturizing agent is one or more of glycerin, hyaluronic acid and water-soluble jojoba oil.

2. The mild and non-irritating gouache cream according to claim 1, characterized in that: The organic silicone oil comprises octyl polymethylsiloxane and polydimethylsiloxane, and the weight ratio of polydimethylsiloxane to octyl polymethylsiloxane is 1:(1.2-2).

3. The mild and non-irritating gouache cream according to claim 1, characterized in that: The thickener is acrylic acid (ester) / C10-30 alkyl acrylate cross-linked polymer.

4. The mild and non-irritating gouache cream according to claim 1, characterized in that: The preservative includes caprylyl glycol and 1,2-hexanediol, and the weight ratio of caprylyl glycol to 1,2-hexanediol is 1:(1-3).

5. The mild and non-irritating gouache cream according to claim 1, characterized in that: The moisturizing agent comprises glycerin and water-soluble jojoba oil, and the weight ratio of the water-soluble jojoba oil to the glycerin is 1:(0.8-1).

6. The method for preparing a mild and non-irritating gouache cream according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that: The method comprises the following preparation steps: S1, stirring polymethylsilsesquioxane and silicone oil to obtain a mixture A; S2, dispersing a moisturizer and a thickener in deionized water to obtain a mixture B; S3, adding mixture B to mixture A and stirring to obtain mixture C; S4, adding triethanolamine to the mixture C, stirring evenly, to obtain a mixture D; S5, adding the preservative into the mixture D and stirring evenly to obtain the gouache cream.

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