Water-in-oil type anti-wrinkle repair cream and preparation process thereof

Abstract

The invention discloses water-in-oil type anti-wrinkle repair cream. A high-melting-point waxy raw material, namely microcrystalline wax (90-105 DEG C), is adopted, so that the hardness is improved. Meanwhile, in order to overcome the defects that microcrystalline wax is poor in spreadability and large in pushing resistance, firstly, tribehenin with a specific proportion is compounded in a wax component to soften and disperse wax; and secondly, starch aluminum octenylsuccinate and bismuth oxychloride in a specific proportion are adopted as powder, and cyclomethylsiloxane and isohexadecane are used as dispersing agents and hardness regulators, so that the repair cream has the advantages of proper hardness, good spreadability and no stickiness.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The invention relates to the technical field of daily chemical products, in particular to a water-in-oil anti-wrinkle repair cream and a preparation process thereof. Background Art

[0002] Consumers are pursuing product efficacy as well as sensory requirements, and the most important sensory requirement is the skin feel. A product with a good skin feel is more likely to be sought after by consumers. Currently, the emulsification technology used in the preparation of anti-wrinkle repair creams is mostly water-in-oil type, while oil-in-water type is relatively rare.

[0003] However, most of the repair creams on the market that are made of oil-in-water emulsions do not use high-melting-point wax raw materials for the oil phase, so most of them are not firm enough in texture; those that use wax raw materials are either not firm enough or too hard, and they do not spread well during use, with greater resistance to pushing away; they do not feel refreshing enough on the skin, are generally oily and sticky, and have poor absorption properties. Summary of the invention

[0004] The purpose of the present invention is to overcome the above technical defects and provide a water-in-oil anti-wrinkle repair cream with suitable hardness and softness, good spreadability and non-stickiness, and a preparation method thereof.

[0005] The present invention is achieved through the following technical solutions:

[0006] A water-in-oil anti-wrinkle repair cream, comprising the following components by weight:

[0007] A, wax component: 2-4 parts of microcrystalline wax, 3-4 parts of behenyl alcohol;

[0008] B, emulsifier: 3-15 parts of dimethicone PEG-10 / 15 cross-linked polymer and lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone, wherein the weight ratio of dimethicone PEG-10 / 15 cross-linked polymer to lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone is (3-8):1;

[0009] C, powder: 3.8-6 parts of aluminum starch octenylsuccinate and bismuth oxychloride in total, wherein the weight ratio of aluminum starch octenylsuccinate to bismuth oxychloride is (3-7):1;

[0010] D, oily component: 6-10 parts of cyclomethicone;

[0011] E, 4-6 parts of isohexadecane;

[0012] F, other components: 5-30 parts of deionized water, 5-8 parts of glycerol, 0.1-1 parts of ceramide NP, 0.5-1 parts of p-hydroxyacetophenone, 1-30 parts of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, 1-5 parts of soluble collagen, 1-5 parts of acetyl hexapeptide-8, and 0.5-1 parts of 1,2-hexanediol.

[0013] The melting point of the microcrystalline wax is 90-105°C.

[0014] Preferably, the weight ratio of dimethicone PEG-10 / 15 crosspolymer to lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone is (4-6):1.

[0015] Preferably, the weight ratio of aluminum starch octenylsuccinate:bismuth oxychloride is (4-5):1.

[0016] Plant extracts can be added according to actual conditions; by weight, 1-2 parts of Phellodendron bark extract, 0.001-0.005 parts of hybrid rose extract / gardenia fruit extract. Other plant extracts can also be added; including 1-5 parts of lactobacillus / soy milk fermentation product filtrate, and 0.8-1 part of magnesium sulfate.

[0017] The preparation process of the water-in-oil anti-wrinkle repair cream of the present invention comprises the following steps:

[0018] (1) Components A and E are pre-mixed and melted at a temperature of 90-105°C. After the mixture is completely melted, it is naturally cooled to room temperature for use;

[0019] (2) Component F is placed in a water phase pot and heated to 40-60°C until completely dissolved and kept warm for later use;

[0020] (3) Put component D into an emulsifier, add C under stirring to disperse, then add B, start homogenization and dispersion, the homogenization speed is 1000-3000 rpm, and homogenize for 3-5 minutes until the dispersion is complete.

[0021] (4) After the dispersion in step (3) is completed, add the mixed components A and E, turn on the heat, stir while heating, heat to 75-85°C to dissolve, and homogenize for 3-5 minutes until the solution is completely dispersed;

[0022] (5) After step (4) is completed, start homogenization at 1000-2000 rpm while stirring, and slowly add component F. After component F is completely added, adjust the homogenization speed to 1000-3000 rpm, control the temperature at 45-65° C., and stop homogenization and stirring after the paste becomes thick and takes shape; cool the discharged material to room temperature to obtain a water-in-oil anti-wrinkle repair cream.

[0023] The present invention has the following beneficial effects:

[0024] The present invention uses a high melting point wax raw material - microcrystalline wax (90-105°C) to improve the hardness. At the same time, in order to improve the defects of poor spreadability and large resistance to push of microcrystalline wax, first, the present invention compounded a specific proportion of tribehenin softening and microcrystalline wax in the wax component to achieve uniform dispersion of the wax; second, a specific proportion of aluminum starch octenyl succinate and bismuth oxychloride were used as powders, and isohexadecane was used as a dispersant (isohexadecane was added together with the wax component in the preferred process) and a hardness adjuster, which can make the repair cream have the advantages of suitable hardness and softness, good spreadability, and non-stickiness. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0025] The present invention is described in detail below in conjunction with specific embodiments. The following embodiments will help those skilled in the art to further understand the present invention, but are not intended to limit the present invention in any form. It should be noted that, for those of ordinary skill in the art, several variations and improvements may be made without departing from the concept of the present invention. These all belong to the protection scope of the present invention.

[0026] The sources of raw materials used in the present invention are as follows:

[0027] A wax component:

[0028] Microcrystalline wax: melting point 90-105°C, Shanghai Rongzhi Material Technology Co., Ltd.;

[0029] Sanshanyujing: Croda Europe Limited;

[0030] Other wax 1: synthetic wax, melting point 61-67°C;

[0031] Other wax 2: synthetic wax, melting point 80-85°C;

[0032] B Emulsifier:

[0033] Emulsifier 1: dimethicone PEG-10 / 15 crosspolymer, Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd;

[0034] Emulsifier 2: Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd;

[0035] Other emulsifiers 1: PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate;

[0036] Other emulsifier 2: polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate;

[0037] C powder:

[0038] Aluminum starch octenylsuccinate: Nouryon Chemicals (Boxing) Co., Ltd.

[0039] Bismuth oxychloride: Merck Photonic Materials (Shanghai) Co., Ltd.;

[0040] Other powders 1: silica;

[0041] Other powders 2: rice starch;

[0042] D Oily component:

[0043] Cyclomethicone: Dow (Zhangjiagang) Investment Co., Ltd.

[0044] Other oily components 1: caprylic / capric / succinic triglyceride;

[0045] Other oily components 2: cetyl ethylhexanoate;

[0046] E: Dispersed components:

[0047] Isohexadecane: LANXESS Chemical (China) Co., Ltd.;

[0048] F: Other components:

[0049] Deionized water: homemade;

[0050] Glycerol: PALMEDIA(M)SDN.BHD;

[0051] Ceramide NP: Solus Biotech Co., Ltd.;

[0052] p-Hydroxyacetophenone: Dezhixin Flavors & Fragrances (Nantong) Co., Ltd.

[0053] Hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol: Shandong Juntai Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd.;

[0054] Soluble collagen: Jiangsu Jiangshan Juyuan Biotechnology Co., Ltd.;

[0055] Acetyl hexapeptide-8: Shenzhen Jianyuan Pharmaceutical Technology Co., Ltd.;

[0056] 1,2-Hexanediol: Dezhixin Flavors & Fragrances (Nantong) Co., Ltd.

[0057] Test method:

[0058] Texture analyzer evaluation (quantitative and objective evaluation):

[0059] Test principle: Texture analyzer is used to detect stress changes or deformation changes when a sample is subjected to force. The texture analyzer uses a force arm that moves up and down to measure the deformation change of the sample under test with a set fixed force. The texture analyzer mainly analyzes the relationship between force, displacement, and speed, and establishes the correlation between quantitative analysis and subjective feelings.

[0060] (1) Brookfield CT3 texture analyzer with 4.5 kg load cell, fixture base (TA-BT-KIT), TA3 / 100 cylindrical probe, flat knife.

[0061] (2) Test substance: constant temperature 25℃.

[0062] (3) Preparation before operation:

[0063] 1. Place the base table on the base of the machine.

[0064] 2. Loosen and tighten the screws of the base table to allow a certain degree of flexibility.

[0065] 3. Place the base bracket on the base and lock in place with the screws.

[0066] 4. Insert the mother cone into the mother cone sample holder.

[0067] 5. Connect the male cone to the load cell.

[0068] 6. Accurately align the male and female cones by lowering the male cone and repositioning it so that the male cone fits into the female cone.

[0069] 7. The screws of the base can now be tightened.

[0070] 8. Before testing, the male probe must always be placed a few millimeters above the sample.

[0071] 9. Start testing.

[0072] (4) Operation test:

[0073] 1. First, set the test requirements.

[0074] (1) Test type: compression;

[0075] (2) Test speed: 2.0 mm / s;

[0076] (3) Post-measurement speed: 2.0 mm / s;

[0077] (4) Target type: distance target value: 20mm;

[0078] (5) Trigger force: 10g.

[0079] 2. Fix the test object on the measuring bracket, flatten the surface of the test object with a flat knife, and place it directly under the probe, and start the test.

[0080] (5) Evaluation criteria:

[0081] Hardness value (g) range: less than 60g is thin, 60-80g is soft, 80-90 is solid, 90-100g is relatively hard, and above 100g is relatively hard;

[0082] Spreadability (mJ) range: less than 3mJ is thin and easy to spread, 3-5mJ is soft and easy to spread, 5-7mJ is soft and easy to spread, 7-9mJ is hard and slightly less ductile, and above 9mJ is hard and strong with poor ductility;

[0083] Adhesion stress (g) range: less than 50g is not sticky, 50-60 is slightly sticky, 60-70g is slightly sticky, 70-80 is sticky, and above 80g is strongly sticky.

[0084] The test values ​​of the tested samples are as follows:

[0085] Hardness value: 81-90g, Spreadability: 6.0-6.5mJ, Adhesive Greasy (adhesive stress): 48-50g.

[0086] 1. Self-assessment by the subjects (qualitative subjective evaluation).

[0087] (1) Test substances: the water-in-oil anti-wrinkle repair creams of the Examples and Comparative Examples;

[0088] (2) Number of subjects: 33.

[0089] (3) Usage:

[0090] Take an appropriate amount of the test substance and apply it evenly on the face, and evaluate the physical properties of the test substance: including pickup, ductility, freshness, stickiness, etc.

[0091] (4) Rating standard: The rating is based on a 5-point scale, with 1 point indicating very poor usability, 2 points indicating poor usability, 3 points indicating fair usability, 4 points indicating good usability, and 5 points indicating excellent usability.

[0092] Table 1: Weight parts of each component of water-in-oil anti-wrinkle repair cream of Examples and Comparative Examples 1-6

[0093]

[0094]

[0095] Table 1 continued:

[0096]

[0097]

[0098] Table 2: Weight parts of each component of water-in-oil anti-wrinkle repair cream of comparative examples 7-11

[0099]

[0100]

[0101] Table 3 Example Texture Analyzer Test Evaluation Table

[0102]

[0103] Table 4 Comparative Example Texture Analyzer Test Evaluation Table

[0104]

[0105] Table 5 Comparative Example Texture Analyzer Test Evaluation Table

[0106]

[0107]

[0108] Table 6 Subjects' ratings

[0109]

[0110] It can be seen from Examples 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 that the use experience is better when the emulsifier is preferably mixed. It can be seen from Examples 2 / 6 / 7 / 8 that the use experience is better when the powder is preferably mixed.

[0111] Table 7 Subjects' Ratings

[0112] Test items Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Comparative Example 3 Comparative Example 4 Comparative Example 5 Comparative Example 6 Pickup 4.5 4.1 4.3 4.5 4.6 4.7 Ductility 4.0 3.7 3.9 4.1 4.1 3.8 Freshness 3.5 3.1 3.5 4.0 3.8 3.7 Stickiness 3.2 3.4 3.6 3.9 4.0 3.8

[0113] Table 8 Subjects' Ratings

[0114] Test items Comparative Example 7 Comparative Example 8 Comparative Example 9 Comparative Example 10 Comparative Example 11 Pickup 3.5 3.8 2.5 4.1 4.5 Ductility 4.6 4.4 2.7 4.0 4.6 Freshness 2.6 3.1 2.9 3.5 3.4 Stickiness 2.5 3.3 3.0 3.2 3.6

Claims

1. A water-in-oil anti-wrinkle repair cream, characterized in that: By weight, it includes the following components: A, wax component: 2-4 parts of microcrystalline wax, 3-4 parts of behenyl alcohol; B, emulsifier: 3-15 parts of dimethicone PEG-10 / 15 cross-linked polymer and lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone, wherein the weight ratio of dimethicone PEG-10 / 15 cross-linked polymer to lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone is (3-8):1; C, powder: 3.8-6 parts of aluminum starch octenyl succinate and bismuth oxychloride in total, wherein the weight ratio of aluminum starch octenyl succinate to bismuth oxychloride is (3-7):1; D, oily component: 6-10 parts of cyclomethicone; E, 4-6 parts of isohexadecane; F, other components: 5-30 parts of deionized water, 5-8 parts of glycerol, 0.1-1 parts of ceramide NP, 0.5-1 parts of p-hydroxyacetophenone, 1-30 parts of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, 1-5 parts of soluble collagen, 1-5 parts of acetyl hexapeptide-8, and 0.5-1 parts of 1,2-hexanediol.

2. The water-in-oil anti-wrinkle repair cream according to claim 1, characterized in that: The melting point of the microcrystalline wax is 90-105°C.

3. The water-in-oil anti-wrinkle repair cream according to claim 1, characterized in that: The weight ratio of dimethicone PEG-10 / 15 crosspolymer to lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone is (4-6):

1.

4. The water-in-oil anti-wrinkle repair cream according to claim 1, characterized in that: The weight ratio of aluminum starch octenylsuccinate: bismuth oxychloride is (4-5):

1.

5. The water-in-oil anti-wrinkle repair cream according to claim 1, characterized in that: It also includes plant extracts; by weight, 1-2 parts of Phellodendron amurense bark extract, 0.001-0.005 parts of hybrid rose extract / gardenia fruit extract; and 1-5 parts of lactobacillus / soymilk fermentation product filtrate and 0.8-1 part of magnesium sulfate.

6. The process for preparing the water-in-oil anti-wrinkle repairing cream according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that: The following steps are involved: (1) Components A and E are pre-mixed and melted at a temperature of 90-105°C. After the melting is complete, they are naturally cooled to room temperature for later use; (2) Add component F into the water phase pot, heat to 40-60°C, dissolve completely and keep warm for later use; (3) Put component D into the emulsifier, add C under stirring to disperse, then add B and start homogenization. The homogenization speed is 1000-3000 rpm and homogenization is carried out for 3-5 minutes until the dispersion is complete.

7. (4) After the dispersion in step (3) is completed, add the mixed components A and E, turn on the heat, stir while heating, heat to 75-85°C to dissolve, and homogenize for 3-5 minutes until the solution is completely dispersed; (5) After step (4) is completed, start homogenization at 1000-2000 rpm while stirring, and slowly add component F. After component F is completely added, adjust the homogenization speed to 1000-3000 rpm and control the temperature at 45-65°C. Stop homogenization and stirring after the paste becomes thick and takes shape; cool the discharged material to room temperature to obtain a water-in-oil anti-wrinkle repair cream.

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