Method and device for realizing natural eversion of stand collar and garment with natural eversion of stand collar

Abstract

The invention relates to a method and device for achieving natural stand collar outward turning and a garment with the natural stand collar outward turning. The method comprises the steps that a first garment body, a collar face and a pre-turning position of the standard size are selected; according to the first garment body, the collar surface and the pre-folding position, determining a second garment body with a folding margin and a collar lining with a folding margin; when the top fly zipper collar is closed and the stand collar is closed, the stand collar is in a vertical state, the size of the circumference of the stand collar is proper, the looseness of the stand collar is uniformly distributed around the neck, the two sides of the stand collar have inclined angles, and gaps exist between the left side and the right side of the neckline and the neck; and the wearing comfort is ensured while the stand collar shape is ensured.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The invention belongs to the technical field of stand-up collar design, and relates to a method and a device for realizing natural outward turning of a stand-up collar, and a stand-up collar natural outward turning garment. Background Art

[0002] The stand-up collar is a type of collar that stands upright on the collar line, so it is also called a stand-up collar. It is one of the important types of clothing collars. The stand-up collar is a standing collar state based on the human shoulder and neck. The lower stand-up collar is mainly related to the neck shape and activity, while the higher stand-up collar is related to the head and activity. Not only should its decorative and aesthetic properties be fully reflected, but also the rationality of its structure should be considered: that is, the shape stability and comfort of the stand-up collar.

[0003] The existing stand-up collar clothing has the following problems: 1) When hanging on the hanger, the front collar will hook inwards, which makes the hanging appearance unsightly. 2) The left and right sides of the stand-up collar are asymmetrical, with one side hooking inwards and the other side turning outwards, which makes the wearer look unsightly. 3) The amount of turning outwards is too large or too small, and the turning out effect is unstable. 4) When the collar is higher, the front collar will press against the chin when worn, and the stand-up collar will be close to the sides of the neck, which not only reduces the appearance but also reduces the comfort. Summary of the invention

[0004] One of the purposes of the present invention is to provide a method for realizing the natural eversion of a stand-up collar, so as to realize the natural eversion of the stand-up collar and the eversion is stable and beautiful.

[0005] Meanwhile, another object of the present invention is to provide a device for implementing the above method for achieving natural eversion of a stand-up collar.

[0006] In addition, the third object of the present invention is to provide a stand-up collar natural eversion clothing prepared based on the above-mentioned method for achieving natural eversion of the stand-up collar.

[0007] The purpose of the present invention can be achieved by the following technical solutions:

[0008] The first technical solution of the present invention provides a method for realizing natural eversion of a stand-up collar, comprising the following steps:

[0009] Select the first body, collar and pre-fold position of standard size;

[0010] Determine a second body with a folding allowance and a collar lining with a folding allowance according to the first body, the collar surface and the pre-folding position;

[0011] The collar lining and the collar surface are sewn together, and the sewn collar lining and the collar surface are sewn together with the second garment body, wherein the collar lining is close to a side of the human body, and the collar surface is away from a side of the human body.

[0012] Furthermore, the method of determining the second garment body with a folding allowance and the collar lining with a folding allowance according to the first garment body, the collar surface and the pre-folding position specifically comprises the following steps:

[0013] After the area on the first collar bottom line of the collar surface close to the zipper belt is matched with the first front collar loop of the first garment body for a period of time, a first folding line is determined at the pre-folded position of the collar surface and the first garment body;

[0014] The first garment body and the collar surface are interrupted along the first folding line to obtain a garment body and a collar body part, a collar including a first collar opening, and a garment body part including a first front collar loop, and the interrupted garment body part including the collar including the first collar opening and the first front collar loop is translated in the direction of the front collar opening to the second folding line, and the translated garment body part including the collar including the first collar opening and the first front collar loop is reconnected with the garment body and the collar body part to obtain a second garment body and a collar lining;

[0015] Among them, the second body includes a second collar mouth and a second intersection. The second collar upper line is determined through the second collar mouth. The second collar lower line, the second hanging collar loop and the second placket line are determined through the second intersection. The second intersection is the intersection of the second front collar loop and the collar surface on the second body. The second body can be naturally turned outward along the second fold line including the second collar mouth.

[0016] It should be noted here that “breaking” the first garment body and the collar surface along the first folding line means cutting the first garment body and the collar surface into two parts along the first folding line.

[0017] Furthermore, one end point of the first fold line is located at a first distance below the first intersection point where the first front collar and the collar face intersect, and the other end point is located at a second distance from the first collar mouth of the first collar top line of the collar face. More specifically, the first distance is less than half of the first placket line, and can be 7-8 cm by way of example, and the second distance is less than half of the first collar top line, and can be 6-7 cm by way of example.

[0018] Furthermore, the distance between the second folding line and the first folding line is a third distance, the third distance is twice the thickness of the body fabric, and the folding margin is the third distance. For example, for a general jacket, the third distance can be 0.2 to 0.35 cm, specifically 0.3 cm, or other values ​​within the range of 0.2 cm, 0.35 cm, etc.

[0019] Furthermore, in order to prevent dislocation and cause unevenness, tilting and twisting of the outer-turned portion of the hanging surface, a knife hole is punched at a fourth distance from the second intersection on the second front collar of the second body. More specifically, the knife hole is 0.1-0.25 cm, and can be 0.2 cm, 0.1 cm, 0.25 cm, etc. Furthermore, in order to have looseness above the hanging surface, the fourth distance is 7-8 cm.

[0020] Furthermore, after determining the second garment body with a folding allowance and the collar lining with a folding allowance according to the first garment body, the collar surface and the pre-folding position, the method further comprises the following steps:

[0021] According to the circumference of the second hanging collar loop, the size of the first loosening position, the second loosening position and the first contraction position of the collar lining are determined, and the loosening or contraction processing is performed respectively to achieve a smooth outer-turned effect of the jacket and solve the problems of no twisting and no excess looseness, wherein the first loosening position and the second loosening position are respectively located at the front collar upper opening on both sides of the collar lining, and the first contraction position is located at the back collar upper opening of the collar lining.

[0022] Furthermore, the first and second release positions have release ranges of 0.2 to 0.4 cm, respectively, and the first retraction position has a retraction range of 0.1 to 0.2 cm, so that after the zipper is opened, there is some looseness in the collar when the stand-up collar is naturally turned outward, thereby achieving natural outward turning, and at the same time, the jacket is turned outward smoothly, solving the problem of no twisting and no excess looseness. Exemplarily, the release range can be selected as 0.2 cm, 0.3 cm, 0.4 cm, etc., and the retraction range can be specifically selected as 0.1 cm, 0.15 cm, 0.2 cm, etc.

[0023] Furthermore, in order to achieve longitudinal looseness when the stand-up collar is naturally turned outward and the collar is turned inside out, the collar is raised by a fifth distance, and the fifth distance ranges from 0.1 to 0.2 cm.

[0024] Furthermore, the length of the collar lining added by the present invention is greater than the length of the collar surface, and the specific length difference also needs to refer to the thickness of the fabric. The thicker the fabric, the greater the length difference. In this way, by reasonably allocating the looseness of the collar surface and the collar lining, the standing collar can achieve a natural outward-turned effect.

[0025] Furthermore, when preparing a stand-up collar, the upper edge of the face collar is ironed with a welt. The welt should be firm and accurately positioned, close to the edge of the drawing mark. The welt is ironed according to the characteristics of the fabric, and is generally ironed on the upper edge of the face collar. Here, it should be noted that for loose yarn woven fabrics, the ends of the collar (vertical) also need to be ironed 0.3cm away from the edge to prevent stretching and deformation; for fabrics with greater elasticity, the collar is ironed around the entire circle to prevent the collar from stretching and deformation. At the same time, during the production of the stand-up collar, the inner and outer collar edges at both ends of the collar should be checked, the edges at both ends of the collar should be aligned, the ends of the face collar should be tight, and the ends of the inner collar should be loose, to ensure that the collar is naturally turned outward after it is made.

[0026] A second technical solution of the present invention provides a device for realizing natural eversion of a stand-up collar, which is used to implement the above method, and the device comprises:

[0027] A standard determination module, used to select a first garment body and collar surface of a standard size and determine a pre-folding position;

[0028] A surplus fabric determining module, used for determining a second garment body with a folding margin and a collar lining with a folding margin according to the first garment body, the collar surface and the pre-folding position;

[0029] The sewing module is used for sewing the collar lining and the collar surface, and for sewing the sewn collar lining and the collar surface with the second garment body, wherein the collar lining is close to the human body and the collar surface is away from the human body.

[0030] A third technical solution of the present invention provides a stand-up collar naturally turned inside out garment, which comprises a garment body and a stand-up collar, wherein the garment body and the stand-up collar are prepared by any of the methods described above.

[0031] Compared with the prior art, the present invention has the following advantages:

[0032] (1) On the basis of the original collar surface, a collar lining is added (that is, the collar lining and the collar surface exist at the same time), and the body of the garment is modified, so that when the zipper collar of the placket is closed and the stand-up collar is closed, the stand-up collar is in an upright state, the circumference of the stand-up collar is appropriate, the looseness is evenly distributed around the neck, and there is an inclined angle on both sides. There is a gap between the left and right sides of the collar and the neck, so as to ensure the shape of the stand-up collar while ensuring the comfort of wearing.

[0033] (2) When the zipper of the placket is opened and the stand-up collar is opened, the collar surface remains unchanged while the upper portion of the back collar lining (i.e., the first tightening position) is tightened and the upper portion of the front collar lining on both sides (i.e., the first loosening position and the second loosening position) are loosened. This ensures that when the zipper of the placket is opened, there is some looseness in the stand-up collar, thereby ensuring that the stand-up collar is turned outward smoothly and naturally based on the collar angle.

[0034] (3) Since the amount of movement required for human activities when wearing is particularly important, the collar surface of the collar of the present application is provided with a neck movement amount at the back collar, which greatly increases the comfort of wearing. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0035] Figure 1 It is a schematic diagram of the structure of the collar;

[0036] Figure 2 It is a schematic diagram of the specific structure of the 1 / 2 collar surface;

[0037] Figure 3 is a schematic diagram of the structure of the first garment body;

[0038] Figure 4 A schematic diagram showing that the 1 / 2 collar surface coincides with the first front collar portion of the first body;

[0039] Figure 5 It is a schematic diagram of the first garment body after being interrupted;

[0040] Figure 6 A schematic diagram showing that the upper left corner is interrupted at the first fold line and moves parallel to the first fold line by a first distance to the second fold line;

[0041] Figure 7 This is a schematic diagram of the second body and collar after being re-determined;

[0042] Figure 8 for Figure 7 An enlarged schematic diagram of the collar surface and the collar lining;

[0043] Fig. 9 A schematic diagram for obtaining the collar surface according to the collar surface;

[0044] Fig.10 This is a schematic diagram showing the uniform distribution of the collar surface and the collar lining;

[0045] Description of the markings in the figure:

[0046] 1- collar surface; 11- first collar upper edge line; 12- first collar lower edge line; 13- first collar angle line; 14- first fold line; 15- first collar mouth; 16- collar body; 17- collar including first collar mouth;

[0047] 2-collar lining; 21-second collar upper edge line; 22-second collar lower edge line; 23-second fold line; 24-second collar mouth;

[0048] 31-zipper strap; 32-knife eyelet;

[0049] 4-first body; 41-first collar loop; 42-first placket line; 43-first front collar loop; 44-body; 45-body including first front collar loop

[0050] 5-second body; 51-second hanging collar loop; 52-second placket line; 53-second front collar loop;

[0051] 61- first intersection point; 62- second intersection point;

[0052] 71-first distance; 72-second distance;

[0053] 81-first volume-increasing position; 82-second volume-increasing position; 83-first volume-retracting position;

[0054] 9- Center line of back collar. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0055] The present invention is described in detail below in conjunction with the accompanying drawings and specific embodiments. This embodiment is implemented based on the technical solution of the present invention, and provides a detailed implementation method and specific operation process, but the protection scope of the present invention is not limited to the following embodiments.

[0056] In the following implementation manners or examples, unless otherwise specified, functional components or structures are conventional components or conventional structures used in the art to achieve corresponding functions.

[0057] Take the stand-up collar jacket as an example. The stand-up collar jacket is a classic style of jacket. The collar shape is one of the key factors that reflect the wearer's temperament. The natural outward turn of the stand-up collar is a balanced appearance of the collar and shoulders of the jacket through the pattern design. The pattern processing is delicate, and there are strict requirements for the shape, angle, width, etc. of the outward turn to achieve an overall upright and full shape. To achieve this effect, the design requirements for the stand-up collar are as follows:

[0058] (1) When the zipper of the front is fully closed, the stand-up collar has an inclination angle on both sides, for example, 5°-15°, preferably 8°, while the collar height is appropriate. The gap between the left and right sides of the collar and the neck is 0.2cm-0.8cm, preferably 0.5cm, to ensure the shape of the stand-up collar and the comfort of wearing.

[0059] (2) When the zipper of the placket is opened, the two collar corners are naturally turned outward. In one embodiment, two points 6CM in the horizontal direction and 11CM in the vertical direction away from the collar corner are used as the folding lines for turning outward. The collar corner is turned outward smoothly by 90°-110°, preferably 100°, and forms an angle of 70°-90° with the front chest plane, preferably 80°. The collar corner is naturally turned outward and cannot be hooked inward.

[0060] (3) Shoulder requirements: The shoulders should have smooth lines, a smooth and natural connection between the shoulder and sleeves, and a close-fitting upper body. At the back of the collar, leave 0.3cm-0.7cm of movement behind the neck, preferably 0.5cm, to increase wearing comfort.

[0061] Therefore, in order to facilitate the realization of the above design requirements, the present invention provides a method for realizing the natural eversion of a stand-up collar, comprising the following steps:

[0062] Select a first body 4, a collar 1 and a pre-folding position of a standard size;

[0063] Determine a second body 5 with a folding allowance and a collar lining 2 with a folding allowance according to the first body 4, the collar surface 1 and the pre-folding position;

[0064] The collar lining 2 and the collar surface 1 are sewn together, and the sewn collar lining 2 and the collar surface 1 are sewn together with the second garment body 5, wherein the collar lining 2 is close to the human body and the collar surface 1 is away from the human body.

[0065] In some specific implementations, please refer to Figures 3 to 5 As shown, the method of determining the second body 5 with folding allowance and the collar lining 2 with folding allowance according to the first body 4, the collar surface 1 and the pre-folding position specifically includes the following steps:

[0066] After the area near the zipper on the first collar bottom line 12 of the collar surface 1 is matched with the first front collar ring 43 of the first garment body 4 for a period of time, a first folding line 14 is determined at the pre-folded position of the collar surface 1 and the first garment body 4;

[0067] The first garment body 4 and the collar surface 1 are interrupted along the first folding line 14 to obtain a garment body 44 and a collar body 16, a collar 17 containing a first collar opening, and a garment body 45 containing a first front collar loop; the interrupted collar 17 containing a first collar opening and a garment body 45 containing a first front collar loop are translated in the direction of the front collar opening to the second folding line 23; the translated collar 17 containing a first collar opening and a garment body 45 containing a first front collar loop are then reconnected with the garment body 44 and the collar body 16 to obtain a second garment body 5 and a collar lining 2;

[0068] The second garment body 5 includes a second collar mouth 24 and a second intersection 62. The second collar upper edge line 21 is determined through the second collar mouth 24. The second collar lower edge line 22, the second hanging collar loop 51, and the second placket line 52 are determined through the second intersection 62. The second intersection 62 is the intersection of the second front collar loop 53 on the second garment body 5 and the collar surface 1. The second garment body 5 can be naturally turned outward along the second folding line 23 including the second collar mouth 24. Figure 1 As shown in FIG. 1 , the area on the first collar bottom line 12 of the collar surface 1 close to the zipper is the first collar angle line 13. Figure 3 As shown, the first body 4 includes a first hanging collar loop 41 , a first placket line 42 , and a first front collar loop 43 .

[0069] It should be noted that “breaking” the first garment body 4 and the collar surface 1 along the first fold line 14 means breaking the first garment body 4 and the collar surface 1 into two parts along the first fold line 14. Figure 5 .

[0070] In some specific implementations, please refer to Figure 6 As shown, one end point of the first fold line 14 is located at a first distance 71 below the first intersection 61 where the first front collar 43 intersects with the collar surface 1, and the other end point is located at a second distance 72 from the first collar mouth 15 of the first collar upper edge line 11 of the collar surface 1. More specifically, the first distance 71 is less than half of the first placket line 42, and can be 7-8 cm by way of example, and the second distance 72 is less than half of the first collar upper edge line 11, and can be 6-7 cm by way of example.

[0071] In some specific implementations, please refer to Figure 6 As shown, the spacing between the second folding line 23 and the first folding line 14 is the third distance, the third distance is twice the thickness of the body fabric, and the folding margin is the third distance. For example, for a general jacket, the third distance can be 0.2 to 0.35 cm, specifically 0.3 cm, or other values ​​within the range of 0.2 cm, 0.35 cm, etc.

[0072] In some specific implementations, please refer to Figure 6 and Figure 7 As shown in the figure, in order to prevent misalignment, unevenness, tilting and twisting of the outer-turned portion of the hanging surface, a knife hole 32 is punched at a fourth distance from the second intersection 62 on the second front collar 53 of the second body 5. More specifically, the knife hole 32 is 0.1-0.25 cm, and can be 0.2 cm, 0.1 cm, 0.25 cm, etc. Furthermore, in order to have looseness above the hanging surface, the fourth distance is 7-8 cm.

[0073] In some specific implementations, please refer to Fig. 9 As shown, after determining the second body 5 with folding allowance and the collar lining 2 with folding allowance according to the first body 4, the collar surface 1 and the pre-folding position, the following steps are also included:

[0074] According to the circumference of the second hanging collar loop 51, the first loosening position 81, the second loosening position 82 and the first contraction position 83 of the collar lining 2 are determined, and the loosening or contraction processing is performed respectively to achieve a smooth outer-turned effect of the jacket and solve the problems of no twisting and no excess looseness, wherein the first loosening position 81 and the second loosening position 82 are respectively located at the front collar upper opening on both sides of the collar lining 2, and the first contraction position 83 is located at the back collar upper opening of the collar lining 2.

[0075] In a more specific embodiment, the first release position 81 and the second release position 82 have release ranges of 0.2 to 0.4 cm, respectively, and the first retracted position 83 has a retracted range of 0.1 to 0.2 cm, so that after the zipper is opened, the collar 2 has some looseness when the stand-up collar is naturally turned outward, thereby achieving natural outward turning, and at the same time, achieving a smooth outward turning effect of the jacket, solving the problem of no twisting and no excess looseness. Exemplarily, the release range can be selected as 0.2 cm, 0.3 cm, 0.4 cm, etc., and the retracted range can be specifically selected as 0.1 cm, 0.15 cm, 0.2 cm, etc.

[0076] In some specific implementations, please refer to Fig. 9 As shown, in order to achieve longitudinal looseness when the collar lining 2 is turned outside when the standing collar is naturally turned outside, the collar lining 2 is lifted up to a fifth distance, and the fifth distance range is 0.1 to 0.2 cm.

[0077] In some specific embodiments, the length of the collar lining 2 added by the present invention is greater than the length of the collar surface 1. The specific length difference also needs to refer to the thickness of the fabric. The thicker the fabric, the greater the length difference. In this way, by reasonably allocating the looseness of the collar surface 1 and the collar lining 2, the standing collar can achieve a natural turned-out effect. Fig.10 As shown, the length difference distribution formula between the collar lining 2 and the collar surface 1 can be: A`=A+(0.2~0.4), B`=B+(0.2~0.3), C`=C+(0~0.2) in the inner circle of the back collar, D`=D+(0.1~0.3), wherein A, B, C, D and A`, B`, C`, D` respectively represent the local length data of the collar surface 1 and the collar lining 2, that is, after selecting the collar surface 1 of standard size, the collar lining 2 is directly obtained according to the length difference distribution formula between the collar lining 2 and the collar surface 1.

[0078] In some specific implementations, when preparing a stand-up collar, a hot-stitched strip is applied to the upper edge of the face collar. The hot-stitched strip should be firm and accurately positioned, close to the edge of the drawing mark. The hot-stitched strip is applied according to the fabric characteristics, and generally the upper edge of the face collar is hot-stitched. Here, it should be noted that for loose yarn woven fabrics, the two ends of the collar (vertical) should also be hot-stitched 0.3 cm away from the edge to prevent stretching and deformation; for fabrics with greater elasticity, the whole circle of the collar should be hot-stitched to prevent the collar from stretching and deformation. At the same time, during the production of the stand-up collar, the inner and outer collar edges at both ends of the collar should be checked, the edges at both ends of the collar should be aligned, the two ends of the face collar should be tight, and the two ends of the inner collar should be loose, to ensure that the collar is naturally turned outward after it is made.

[0079] The above embodiments may be implemented individually or in any combination of two or more.

[0080] The above implementation is described in more detail below in conjunction with specific examples.

[0081] Embodiment 1:

[0082] This embodiment provides a method for achieving natural outward turning of a jacket stand-up collar, comprising the following steps:

[0083] A method for achieving natural eversion of a stand-up collar comprises the following steps:

[0084] Select a first garment body 4, a collar surface 1 and a pre-folding position of a standard size;

[0085] Determine a second body 5 with a folding allowance and a collar lining 2 with a folding allowance according to the first body 4, the collar surface 1 and the pre-folding position;

[0086] The collar lining 2 and the collar surface 1 are sewn together, and the sewn collar lining 2 and the collar surface 1 are sewn together with the second garment body 5, wherein the collar lining 2 is close to the human body and the collar surface 1 is away from the human body.

[0087] Please see again Figures 3 to 6 As shown, the method of determining the second body 5 with folding allowance and the collar lining 2 with folding allowance according to the first body 4, the collar surface 1 and the pre-folding position specifically includes the following steps:

[0088] After the area near the zipper on the first collar bottom line 12 of the collar surface 1 is matched with the first front collar ring 43 of the first garment body 4 for a period of time, a first folding line 14 is determined at the pre-folded position of the collar surface 1 and the first garment body 4;

[0089] The first garment body 4 and the collar surface 1 are interrupted along the first folding line 14 to obtain a garment body 44 and a collar body 16, a collar 17 containing a first collar opening, and a garment body 45 containing a first front collar loop; the interrupted collar 17 containing a first collar opening and a garment body 45 containing a first front collar loop are translated in the direction of the front collar opening to the second folding line 23; the translated collar 17 containing a first collar opening and a garment body 45 containing a first front collar loop are then reconnected with the garment body 44 and the collar body 16 to obtain a second garment body 5 and a collar lining 2;

[0090] The second garment body 5 includes a second collar mouth 24 and a second intersection 62. The second collar upper edge line 21 is determined through the second collar mouth 24. The second collar lower edge line 22, the second hanging collar loop 51, and the second placket line 52 are determined through the second intersection 62. The second intersection 62 is the intersection of the second front collar loop 53 on the second garment body 5 and the collar surface 1. The second garment body 5 can be naturally turned outward along the second folding line 23 including the second collar mouth 24. Figure 1 As shown in FIG. 1 , the area on the first collar bottom line 12 of the collar surface 1 close to the zipper is the first collar angle line 13. Figure 3 As shown, the first garment body 4 includes a first hanging collar loop 41, a first placket line 42, and a first front collar loop 43. Figure 6 and Figure 7 As shown, the zipper tape 31 is provided at the second placket line 52 and the collar corner line.

[0091] It should be noted that “breaking” the first garment body 4 and the collar surface 1 along the first fold line 14 means breaking the first garment body 4 and the collar surface 1 into two parts along the first fold line 14. Figure 5 .

[0092] Please see again Figure 6 As shown, one end point of the first fold line 14 is located at a first distance 71 below the first intersection 61 where the first front collar 43 intersects with the collar surface 1, and the other end point is located at a second distance 72 from the first collar mouth 15 of the first collar upper edge line 11 of the collar surface 1. More specifically, the first distance 71 is less than half of the first placket line 42, and can be 7-8 cm by way of example, and the jacket of this embodiment is designed to be 7 cm, and the second distance 72 is less than half of the first collar upper edge line 11, and can be 6 cm by way of example, and the jacket of this embodiment is designed to be 6 cm.

[0093] Please see again Figure 6As shown, the spacing between the second folding line 23 and the first folding line 14 is a third distance, the third distance is twice the thickness of the body fabric, and the folding margin is the third distance. For example, for a general jacket, the third distance may be 0.2 to 0.35 cm, and the jacket of this embodiment is designed to be 0.3 cm.

[0094] Please see again Figure 6 and Figure 7 As shown in the figure, in order to prevent misalignment and cause unevenness, tilt and twisting of the outer surface, a knife hole 32 is punched at the fourth distance from the second intersection 62 on the second front collar 53 of the second body 5. More specifically, the knife hole 32 is 0.1-0.25 cm, and the jacket of this embodiment is designed to be 0.2 cm. In order to allow looseness above the outer surface, the fourth distance is 7-8 cm, and the jacket of this embodiment is designed to be about 7 cm.

[0095] Please see again Fig. 9 As shown, after determining the second body 5 with folding allowance and the collar lining 2 with folding allowance according to the first body 4, the collar surface 1 and the pre-folding position, the following steps are also included:

[0096] According to the encirclement of the second hanging collar loop 51, the first expanding position 81, the second expanding position 82 and the first shrinking position 83 of the collar lining 2 are determined, and the expanding or shrinking processing is performed respectively to achieve a smooth outer turning effect of the jacket and solve the problem of no twisting and no excess looseness. Among them, the first expanding position 81 and the second expanding position 82 are respectively located at the front collar upper opening on both sides of the collar lining 2, and the first shrinking position 83 is located at the back collar upper opening of the collar lining 2. After the expansion and shrinking processing, combined with Fig. 9 It can be seen that the angle positions between the contour lines such as the back collar center line 9 are significantly adjusted.

[0097] The release ranges of the first release position 81 and the second release position 82 are respectively 0.2 to 0.4 cm. The jacket of this embodiment is designed to release 0.2 cm. The release range of the first contraction position 83 is 0.1 to 0.2 cm. The jacket of this embodiment is designed to contract 0.1 cm. This is to achieve that when the zipper is opened, the stand-up collar naturally turns outward, and there is looseness in the collar 2, thereby achieving natural turning outward. At the same time, the jacket can be turned outward smoothly, solving the problems of no twisting and no excess looseness.

[0098] Please see again Fig. 9 As shown, in order to achieve longitudinal looseness when the collar 2 is turned outside when the stand-up collar is naturally turned outward, the collar 2 is lifted up to a fifth distance, and the fifth distance ranges from 0.1 to 0.2 cm. The jacket of this embodiment uses 0.15 cm.

[0099] The jacket stand-up collar designed in this embodiment is opened when the zipper of the front placket is opened. When the stand-up collar is opened, the collar lining 2 is tightened at the upper part of the back collar (i.e., the first tightening position 83) while the collar surface 1 remains unchanged. The upper parts of the front collar on both sides of the collar lining 2 (i.e., the first loosening position 81 and the second loosening position 82) are loosened. When the zipper of the front placket is opened, the stand-up collar lining 2 is loose, so that the stand-up collar is smoothly and naturally turned outward based on the collar angle. Since the amount of movement required for human activities when wearing is particularly important, the collar lining 2 and the collar surface 1 of this application are provided with a neck movement amount at the back collar, which greatly increases the comfort of wearing.

[0100] In addition, the length of the collar lining 2 added in this embodiment is greater than the length of the collar surface 1. The specific length difference also needs to refer to the thickness of the fabric. The thicker the fabric, the greater the length difference. In this way, by reasonably allocating the looseness of the collar surface 1 and the collar lining 2, the standing collar can achieve a natural turned-out effect. Fig.10 As shown, the length difference distribution between the collar lining 2 and the collar surface 1 can be: A`=A+(0.2~0.4), B`=B+(0.2~0.3), C`=C+(0~0.2) in the inner circle of the back collar, D`=D+(0.1~0.3), wherein A, B, C, D and A`, B`, C`, D` respectively represent the local length data of the collar surface 1 and the collar lining 2, that is, after selecting the collar surface 1 of standard size, the collar lining 2 is directly obtained according to the length difference distribution formula between the collar lining 2 and the collar surface 1.

[0101] When making a stand-up collar, the upper edge of the face collar is ironed with a strip. The strip should be firm and accurately positioned, close to the edge of the drawing mark. The strip is ironed according to the characteristics of the fabric, and generally the upper edge of the face collar is ironed. Here, it should be noted that for loose yarn woven fabrics, the ends of the collar (vertical) also need to be ironed 0.3cm away from the edge to prevent stretching and deformation; for fabrics with greater elasticity, the entire collar is ironed around to prevent the collar from stretching and deformation. At the same time, during the production of the stand-up collar, the inner and outer collar edges at both ends of the collar should be checked, the edges at both ends of the collar should be aligned, the ends of the face collar should be tight, and the ends of the inner collar should be loose, to ensure that the collar is naturally turned outward after it is made.

[0102] The above description of the embodiments is to facilitate the understanding and use of the invention by those skilled in the art. It is obvious that those skilled in the art can easily make various modifications to these embodiments and apply the general principles described herein to other embodiments without creative work. Therefore, the present invention is not limited to the above embodiments, and improvements and modifications made by those skilled in the art based on the disclosure of the present invention without departing from the scope of the present invention should be within the scope of protection of the present invention.

Claims

1. A method for achieving natural eversion of a stand-up collar, characterized in that The following steps are involved: Select the first body, collar and pre-fold position of standard size; Determine a second body with a folding allowance and a collar lining with a folding allowance according to the first body, the collar surface and the pre-folding position; The collar lining and the collar surface are sewn together, and the sewn collar lining and the collar surface are sewn together with the second garment body, wherein the collar lining is close to a side of the human body, and the collar surface is away from a side of the human body.

2. A method for achieving natural eversion of a stand-up collar according to claim 1, characterized in that: The method of determining the second garment body with a folding allowance and the collar lining with a folding allowance according to the first garment body, the collar surface and the pre-folding position specifically comprises the following steps: After the area on the first collar bottom line of the collar surface close to the zipper belt is matched with the first front collar loop of the first garment body for a period of time, a first folding line is determined at the pre-folded position of the collar surface and the first garment body; The first garment body and the collar surface are interrupted along the first folding line to obtain a garment body and a collar body part, a collar including a first collar opening, and a garment body part including a first front collar loop, and the interrupted garment body part including the collar including the first collar opening and the first front collar loop is translated in the direction of the front collar opening to the second folding line, and the translated garment body part including the collar including the first collar opening and the first front collar loop is reconnected with the garment body and the collar body part to obtain a second garment body and a collar lining; Among them, the second body includes a second collar mouth and a second intersection. The second collar upper line is determined through the second collar mouth. The second collar lower line, the second hanging collar loop and the second placket line are determined through the second intersection. The second intersection is the intersection of the second front collar loop and the collar surface on the second body. The second body can be naturally turned outward along the second fold line including the second collar mouth.

3. A method for achieving natural eversion of a stand-up collar according to claim 2, characterized in that: One end point of the first fold line is located at a first distance below a first intersection point where the first front collar loop intersects the collar surface, and the other end point is located at a second distance from a first collar mouth of a first collar upper edge line of the collar surface.

4. The method for achieving natural eversion of a stand-up collar according to claim 2, characterized in that: The distance between the second folding line and the first folding line is a third distance, the third distance is twice the thickness of the body fabric, and the folding margin is the third distance.

5. The method for achieving natural eversion of a stand-up collar according to claim 1, characterized in that: A hole is punched at a fourth distance from the second intersection on the second front collar of the second body, wherein the fourth distance is 7-8 cm, and the width of the hole is 0.1-0.25 cm.

6. The method for achieving natural eversion of a stand-up collar according to claim 2, characterized in that: After determining the second garment body with a folding allowance and the collar lining with a folding allowance according to the first garment body, the collar surface and the pre-folding position, the following steps are also included: According to the circumference of the second hanging collar loop, the size of the first loosening position, the second loosening position and the first contraction position of the collar lining are determined, and the loosening or contraction processing is performed respectively to achieve a smooth outer-turned effect of the jacket and solve the problems of no twisting and no excess looseness, wherein the first loosening position and the second loosening position are respectively located at the front collar upper opening on both sides of the collar lining, and the first contraction position is located at the back collar upper opening of the collar lining.

7. A method for achieving natural eversion of a stand-up collar according to claim 6, characterized in that: The volume release ranges of the first volume release position and the second volume release position are 0.2 to 0.4 cm respectively, and the volume reduction range of the first volume reduction position is 0.1 to 0.2 cm.

8. The method for achieving natural eversion of a stand-up collar according to claim 1, characterized in that: The collar lining is raised for a fifth distance, and the fifth distance ranges from 0.1 to 0.2 cm.

9. A device for realizing natural eversion of a standing collar, used for implementing the method according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that: The device includes: A standard determination module, used to select a first garment body and collar surface of a standard size and determine a pre-folding position; A surplus fabric determining module, used for determining a second garment body with a folding margin and a collar lining with a folding margin according to the first garment body, the collar surface and the pre-folding position; The sewing module is used for sewing the collar lining and the collar surface, and for sewing the sewn collar lining and the collar surface with the second garment body, wherein the collar lining is close to the human body and the collar surface is away from the human body.

10. A garment with a naturally turned-out stand-up collar, comprising a garment body and a stand-up collar, wherein the garment body and the stand-up collar are prepared by the method according to any one of claims 1 to 8.

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