Application of itaconic acid in preparation of damaged hair repairing product and composition of itaconic acid

By reacting itaconic acid with free thiol in the hair, the disulfide bond is repaired, and the problem of hair structural damage caused by hair dyeing and perming is solved, and effective repair and toughness improvement of damaged hair due to perming and bleaching oxidation is achieved.

CN119606771APending Publication Date: 2025-03-14PROYA COSMETICS CO LTD SHANGHAI BRANCH
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Patent Information

Application Number
CN202510112347.3
Authority / Receiving Office
CN · China
Patent Type
Applications(China)
Current Assignee / Owner
Filing Date
2025-01-24
Publication Date
2025-03-14

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

During hair dyeing and perming, hair structure damage, mechanical strength and toughness decrease, water locking ability and antioxidant ability weaken. It is difficult for the existing technology to effectively repair the hair core and improve the strength and toughness of the hair.

Method used

Itaconic acid is used as the main technical means to react with free thiol groups in the hair through Michael addition reaction, repair the disulfide bond and improve the damaged hair structure. The application concentration of itaconic acid is 1 wt.%-5 wt.%, and the pH value is 2.15-2.49. Combined with the pH adjuster sodium hydroxide or arginine, the composition is formed to enhance the repair effect.

Benefits of technology

Itaconic acid and its compositions can significantly repair the hair core, enhance the strength and breakage of hair, reduce hair breakage, and improve the overall health of the hair. 2wt.% itaconic acid has the best effect on repairing damaged hair due to perming reduction and bleaching oxidation.

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Abstract

The invention discloses application of itaconic acid in preparation of a product for repairing damaged hair and a composition of the itaconic acid, the composition comprises itaconic acid and a pH regulator, and the pH regulator is sodium hydroxide or arginine. The invention proves that the itaconic acid and the composition thereof have the characteristics of repairing hair cores and strengthening and toughening hair.
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Description

Technical Field

[0001] The invention relates to a use of itaconic acid, in particular to a use of itaconic acid in preparing a product for repairing damaged hair and a composition thereof. Background Art

[0002] During the hair dyeing, perming, bleaching and other hair treatments, hair lipid degradation, disulfide bond breakage and oxidation often occur, leading to hair damage. 17% of the amino acids in hair are cysteine. In healthy hair, cysteine ​​is formed by disulfide bonds between cysteines. During the hair dyeing and perming process, the disulfide bonds break and are reduced to free sulfhydryl groups, which are then oxidized to groups such as sulfonates, breaking the chemical bonds between cysteines, resulting in damage to the hair structure, reduced mechanical strength, reduced water-locking ability and reduced antioxidant capacity; during the hair bleaching process, it is easy to cause a decrease in the mechanical properties of the hair, making the hair more frizzy and breakable.

[0003] Therefore, with the increasing popularity of various hairdressing methods such as dyeing, perming, and bleaching, consumers' demand for hair care products is also increasing. It is urgent to develop molecules or technologies that can repair the internal structure of hair, so as to repair the hair damage caused by various chemical treatments, so that the hair can appear healthy while being beautiful.

[0004] The main hair strengthening technologies on the market today can be divided into two categories: one is to use polymers to form a film on the surface of hair to protect the hair scales and cortex and reduce external damage; the other is to use small molecule proteins or peptides to interact with proteins inside the hair to affect the hair performance. However, most of the above substances have a repairing effect on the surface of the hair, and the technology that can penetrate into the hair core and improve the mechanical properties of the hair is extremely limited. Even active substances that can penetrate into the hair core mainly improve the hair performance through hydrogen bonds and salt bonds, and the improvement effect is weak and is greatly affected by external environmental factors.

[0005] Itaconic acid is scientifically known as methylene succinic acid and methylene succinic acid. It is an unsaturated dibasic organic acid with a chemical formula of C5H6O4. It contains unsaturated double bonds and has active chemical properties. It can polymerize itself and other monomers such as acrylonitrile. It is slightly soluble in benzene, chloroform, ether, petroleum ether, carbon disulfide, and soluble in water, ethanol, and acetone. Itaconic acid can undergo various addition reactions, esterification reactions, and polymerization reactions. It is an important raw material for the chemical synthesis industry and an important raw material for chemical production.

[0006] The prior art discloses the antifungal, anti-inflammatory and anti-dandruff effects of itaconic acid on the scalp, such as an anti-dandruff composition disclosed in publication number CN114096231A, but the prior art does not disclose the effect of itaconic acid on hair repair. Summary of the invention

[0007] The purpose of the present invention is to provide an application of itaconic acid in preparing a product for repairing damaged hair and a composition thereof. The present invention proves that itaconic acid and its composition have the characteristics of repairing hair core and strengthening hair.

[0008] The technical solution of the present invention: application of itaconic acid in preparing products for repairing damaged hair.

[0009] In the aforementioned application, the application concentration of itaconic acid is 1wt.%-5wt.%.

[0010] In the aforementioned application, the application pH of the itaconic acid is 2.15-2.49.

[0011] In the aforementioned application, the damaged hair is hair damaged by perming, hair damaged by bleaching and oxidation, or hair damaged by dyeing.

[0012] In the aforementioned application, the product is a hair cleaning product or a hair care product.

[0013] A composition contains the above-mentioned itaconic acid and also comprises a pH regulator, wherein the pH regulator is sodium hydroxide or arginine.

[0014] In the aforementioned composition, when the pH regulator is sodium hydroxide and the damaged hair is hair damaged by perming, the pH value of the composition is 3.9-8.0.

[0015] In the aforementioned composition, when the pH regulator is sodium hydroxide and the damaged hair is bleached and oxidatively damaged hair, the pH value of the composition is 3.9-4.2.

[0016] In the aforementioned composition, when the pH regulator is arginine and the damaged hair is bleached and oxidatively damaged hair, the pH value of the composition is 3.5-5.6.

[0017] The present invention also protects the use of the above composition in preparing a product for repairing damaged hair. Compared with the prior art, the present invention has the following beneficial effects:

[0018] The present invention uses itaconic acid monomer as the main technical means, and reacts with free thiol groups in the hair through the Michael addition reaction, so as to repair the disulfide bonds of the hair, repair and improve the damaged hair structure, solve the problem of hair damage after dyeing and perming, increase the diameter of the hair, and greatly improve the hair's properties such as hair breaking force and toughness.

[0019] According to the test results, 1wt.%-5wt.% of itaconic acid can repair the hair core, strengthen the hair, and reduce hair breakage for hair damaged by perm and bleaching and oxidation, and can be used in rinse-off hair products and leave-in hair products. And 2wt.% of itaconic acid has the best repair effect on hair damaged by perm and bleaching and oxidation.

[0020] The pH value of the combination of NaOH+itaconic acid is 3.9-8.0, which has a repairing effect on hair damaged by perming and restoration, and the effect is better than the repair effect of single itaconic acid.

[0021] The combination of arginine + itaconic acid has a pH value of 3.5-5.6 and has a repairing effect on hair damaged by bleaching and oxidation. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0022] Figure 1 This is the standard curve of cysteine ​​concentration-absorbance.

[0023] Figure 2 This is a comparison chart of the effects of different hair strengthening substances on repairing damaged hair. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0024] The present invention will be further described below in conjunction with the embodiments, but they are not intended to limit the present invention.

[0025] Embodiment 1:

[0026] Take a 100 ml beaker, add 1 g of itaconic acid and 99 g of deionized water, and dissolve them by ultrasonic stirring to obtain a hair repair and strengthening solution with a pH of 2.49 and a concentration of 1 wt.%.

[0027] Embodiment 2:

[0028] Take a 100 ml beaker, add 2 g of itaconic acid and 98 g of deionized water, and dissolve them by ultrasonic stirring to obtain a hair repair and strengthening solution with a pH of 2.36 and a concentration of 2 wt.%.

[0029] Embodiment 3:

[0030] Take a 100 ml beaker, add 5 g of itaconic acid and 95 g of deionized water, and dissolve by ultrasonic stirring to obtain a hair repair and strengthening solution with a pH of 2.15 and a concentration of 5 wt.%.

[0031] Embodiment 4:

[0032] Take a 100 ml beaker, add 2 g of itaconic acid and 98 g of deionized water, stir ultrasonically to dissolve, then add an appropriate amount of NaOH to obtain a hair repair and strengthening solution with a pH of 3.9 and a 2 wt. %.

[0033] Embodiment 5:

[0034] Take a 100 ml beaker, add 2 g of itaconic acid and 98 g of deionized water, stir ultrasonically to dissolve, then add an appropriate amount of NaOH to obtain a hair repair and strengthening solution with a pH of 4.2 and a 2 wt. %.

[0035] Embodiment 6:

[0036] Take a 100 ml beaker, add 2 g of itaconic acid and 98 g of deionized water, stir ultrasonically to dissolve, then add an appropriate amount of NaOH to obtain a hair repair and strengthening solution with a pH of 5.6 and a 2 wt.% solution.

[0037] Embodiment 7:

[0038] Take a 100 ml beaker, add 2 g of itaconic acid and 98 g of deionized water, stir ultrasonically to dissolve, then add an appropriate amount of NaOH to obtain a hair repair and strengthening solution with a pH of 8.0 and a 2 wt.% solution.

[0039] Embodiment 8:

[0040] Take a 100 ml beaker, add 2 g of itaconic acid and 98 g of deionized water, stir ultrasonically to dissolve, then add 1 g of arginine to obtain a hair repair and strengthening solution with a pH of 3.5 and a 2 wt. %.

[0041] Embodiment 9:

[0042] Take a 100 ml beaker, add 2 g of itaconic acid and 98 g of deionized water, stir ultrasonically to dissolve, then add 2 g of arginine to obtain a hair repair and strengthening solution with a pH of 4.2 and a 2 wt. %.

[0043] Embodiment 10:

[0044] Take a 100 ml beaker, add 2 g of itaconic acid and 98 g of deionized water, stir ultrasonically to dissolve, then add 4.2 g of arginine to obtain a hair repair and strengthening solution with a pH of 5.6 and a 2 wt. % solution.

[0045] Embodiment 11:

[0046] Take a 100 ml beaker, add 2 g of itaconic acid and 98 g of deionized water, stir ultrasonically to dissolve, then add 5.7 g of arginine to obtain a hair repair and strengthening solution with a pH of 8.2 and a 2 wt. %.

[0047] Comparative Example 1:

[0048] Take a 100 ml beaker, add 0.01 g of itaconic acid and 99.99 g of deionized water, stir and dissolve by ultrasonic stirring to obtain a hair repair and strengthening solution with a concentration of 0.01 wt.%.

[0049] Comparative Example 2:

[0050] Take a 100 ml beaker, add 0.1 g of itaconic acid and 99.9 g of deionized water, and stir ultrasonically to dissolve to obtain a 0.1 wt.% concentration of hair repair and strengthening solution.

[0051] Comparative Example 3:

[0052] Take a 100 ml beaker, add 10 g of itaconic acid and 90 g of deionized water, and dissolve them by ultrasonic stirring to obtain a hair repair and strengthening solution with a concentration of 10 wt.%.

[0053] The present invention uses itaconic acid under different conditions to treat damaged (permed, bleached) hair, and verifies its hair-strengthening effect through hair tensile performance test. Healthy hair bundles are provided by Shanghai Shengping Testing Company, and itaconic acid is provided by SigmaAldrich Company.

[0054] 1) Hair perm damage reduction treatment: Prepare a perm solution, add 2M urea to a 5% by mass cysteine ​​aqueous solution, and add an appropriate amount of Na2CO3 to adjust the pH to 9.5. Incubate the healthy hair bundle in the perm solution for 20 minutes and rinse it to obtain a perm-reduced damaged hair bundle.

[0055] 0.25 g of perm-restored damaged hair bundles were accurately weighed and immersed in the solutions of Comparative Example 1-2, Example 1-3 and Comparative Example 3 with itaconic acid concentrations from low to high, respectively. The reaction temperature was set to 40° C. and the reaction time was 15 min. The hair bundles were taken out, washed with clean water and dried to obtain treated hair bundles 1-6.

[0056] Accurately weigh 0.25 g of perm-restored damaged hair bundles and immerse them in solutions 4-7 respectively. Set the reaction temperature to 40° C. and the reaction time to 15 min. Take out and wash with clean water and dry them to obtain treated hair bundles 7-10.

[0057] The hair tensile performance test was performed on hair bundles 1-10 respectively, and the specific test method was as follows: the hair diameter was measured using an FDAS770 infrared laser test system, and the average diameter of the selected hair at four average distance positions was taken; 25 hairs from hair bundles 1-10 were taken as samples, and a single fiber tensile test was performed using a DIASTRON MTT690 automatic tensile tester, and the average breaking force of the 25 hairs was taken. The hair diameter results of hair bundles 1-6 are shown in Table 1, the tensile strength test results of hair bundles 1-6 are shown in Table 2, and the tensile strength test results of hair bundles 7-10 are shown in Table 3.

[0058] Table 1. Diameter of hair strands damaged by perm after treatment with different concentrations of itaconic acid

[0059]

[0060]

[0061] Table 2. Tensile strength of hair damaged by perm after treatment with itaconic acid at different concentrations

[0062]

[0063] The above results show that 1wt.%-5wt.% of itaconic acid corresponding to hair bundles 3-5 have a significant effect on improving the toughness of damaged hair after perming, and 2wt.% of itaconic acid has the greatest repair and toughening effect on damaged hair after perming. However, 10wt.% of itaconic acid has too high a concentration and is crystalline, forming a film on the surface of the hair, making the hair more brittle and soft, resulting in a lower breaking force. Although 0.01wt.%-0.1wt.% of itaconic acid can increase the breaking force of hair, there is no significant difference in the data. Therefore, the 1wt.%-5wt.% itaconic acid in the embodiment of the present invention has a good repair effect on damaged hair after perming, and can be used in hair care products.

[0064] Table 3. Tensile strength of hair damaged by perm after itaconic acid treatment at different pH (NaOH adjustment)

[0065]

[0066] The above results show that the 2wt.% itaconic acid composition solution adjusted by NaOH to a pH value between 3.9-8.0 has a repairing effect on hair damaged by perm reduction. As the pH increases, the toughening and repairing effect of 2wt.% itaconic acid on hair damaged by perm reduction increases first and then decreases; the closer the pH is to the pH value of 3.9, the first ionization of itaconic acid, the better the repairing effect. Therefore, the pH range of the composition of NaOH+itaconic acid in perm repair products is 3.9-8.0.

[0067] 2) Treatment of hair bleaching and oxidative damage: a certain amount of commercially available bleaching powder is mixed with hydrogen peroxide in a ratio of 1:2, and evenly applied to healthy hair bundles. The hair bundles are placed in a 40°C oven, and taken out and rinsed after 40 minutes. After repeating three times, bleaching and oxidatively damaged hair bundles are obtained.

[0068] 0.25 g of bleached oxidatively damaged hair was accurately weighed and immersed in the solutions of Comparative Examples 1-2, Examples 1-3 and Comparative Example 3 with itaconic acid concentrations from low to high, respectively. The reaction temperature was set to 40° C. and the reaction time was set to 15 min. The hair was taken out, washed with clean water and air-dried to obtain treated hair bundles (1)-(6).

[0069] 0.25 g of bleached oxidatively damaged hair was accurately weighed and immersed in the solutions of Examples 4-7 respectively. The reaction temperature was set to 40° C. and the reaction time was set to 15 min. The hair was taken out and washed with clean water and then air-dried to obtain treated hair bundles (7)-(10).

[0070] 0.25 g of bleached oxidatively damaged hair was accurately weighed and immersed in the solutions of Examples 8-11 respectively. The reaction temperature was set to 40° C. and the reaction time was set to 15 min. The hair was taken out and washed with clean water and then air-dried to obtain treated hair bundles (11)-(14).

[0071] The hair bundles (1)-(14) were tested for hair tensile properties. The specific test methods are as follows: the hair diameter was measured using an FDAS770 infrared laser test system, and the average diameter of the selected hair strands at four average distances was taken; 25 hair strands from the hair bundles (1)-(14) were taken as samples, and a single fiber tensile test was performed using a DIASTRON MTT690 automatic tensile tester. The hair diameter results of the hair bundles (1)-(6) are shown in Table 4, the tensile strength test results of the hair bundles (1)-(6) are shown in Table 5, and the tensile strength test results of the hair bundles (7)-(10) are shown in Table 6. The tensile strength test results of the hair bundles (11)-(14) are shown in Table 7.

[0072] Table 4. Diameter of hair damaged by bleaching and oxidation after treatment with different concentrations of itaconic acid

[0073]

[0074]

[0075] Table 5. Tensile strength of bleached and oxidatively damaged hair after treatment with different concentrations of itaconic acid

[0076]

[0077] The above results show that 1wt.%-5wt.% itaconic acid has a significant effect on improving the toughness of bleached and oxidatively damaged hair, and 5wt.% itaconic acid has the greatest repair and toughening effect on bleached and oxidatively damaged hair. However, 10wt.% itaconic acid makes the hair too tough due to its high concentration, resulting in excessive rigidity of the hair, causing hair breakage, and the breaking force data cannot be reflected. Although 0.01wt.%-0.1wt.% itaconic acid can increase the breaking force of hair, there is no significant difference in the data. Therefore, the embodiment of the present invention has a good repair effect on bleached and oxidatively damaged hair with a concentration of 1wt.%-5wt.%, and can be used in hair care products.

[0078] Table 6. Tensile strength of bleached and oxidatively damaged hair after itaconic acid treatment at different pH (NaOH adjustment)

[0079]

[0080] The above results show that the 2wt.% itaconic acid composition solution adjusted to pH between 3.9-4.2 by NaOH has a repairing effect on bleached and oxidatively damaged hair, and the closer the pH is to the pH value of 3.9 at which itaconic acid is first ionized, the better the repairing effect. However, as the pH further increases, the strong repairing effect of 2wt.% itaconic acid on bleached and oxidatively damaged hair will weaken, and it will drop sharply at a pH of 5.6.

[0081] Table 7. Tensile strength of bleached and oxidatively damaged hair after itaconic acid treatment at different pH (adjusted by arginine)

[0082]

[0083]

[0084] The above results show that after adjusting the pH value between 3.5-5.6 with arginine, the 2wt.% itaconic acid composition solution has a repair effect on bleached and oxidatively damaged hair. Even at a pH of 5.6, the itaconic acid repair solution compounded with arginine still has a significant strong repair effect on bleached and oxidatively damaged hair, expanding the pH application range of itaconic acid. Therefore, the pH range of the application of the arginine + itaconic acid composition in bleached hair repair products is 3.5-5.6.

[0085] Test on the relationship between itaconic acid and free thiol groups:

[0086] The Ellman method was used to quantify the free thiol groups in hair bundles damaged by different perm reduction. The principle of the Ellman method is that free thiol groups react with excess 5,5'-dithiobis(2-nitrobenzoic acid) (DNTB) at room temperature to generate colored substances that absorb at 412nm ultraviolet light. The actual concentration of thiol groups is obtained based on the drawn cysteine ​​standard curve.

[0087] The specific operations are as follows:

[0088] Preparation of cysteine ​​standard curve:

[0089] Accurately weigh 0.12115 g of cysteine, dissolve it in deionized water, and make up to 100 mL to obtain 10 mmol / L of mother solution. Take the mother solution to prepare 2.0 mmol / L solution, and then use the two-fold dilution method to prepare 0 mmol / L, 0.03125 mmol / L, 0.0625 mmol / L, 0.125 mmol / L, 0.25 mmol / L, 0.5 mmol / L, 1 mmol / L, and 2 mmol / L concentration solutions. Take 100 μl of each of the above solutions and add them to 1 mL of the extract. React for 20 minutes, measure the absorbance at 412 nm, and draw a concentration-absorbance standard curve of cysteine. The prepared cysteine ​​standard curve is shown in the figure below. Figure 1 shown.

[0090] Hair bundle treatment: 0.25 g of perm-restored damaged hair bundles were accurately weighed and immersed in the solutions of Examples 1-3, 5 and 9 respectively. The reaction temperature was set to 40° C. and the reaction time was 15 min. The hair bundles were taken out, washed with clean water and air-dried to obtain treated hair bundles 11-15.

[0091] Free thiol content test:

[0092] Hair bundles 11-15 were cut into pieces of 1 mm, and 20 mg of the broken hair was weighed from each hair bundle and soaked in 1 mL of a reaction solution consisting of 4 M urea, 10 mM DNB, 3 mM ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and 0.2 M Tris-HCL. The samples were incubated under nitrogen for 20 min, then centrifuged at 9000 rpm for 10 min to obtain the supernatant, and its absorbance was read at 412 nm using an ELISA reader. Three parallel experiments were performed for each data point, and the average value was taken. The sulfhydryl content and repair rate were calculated based on the cysteine ​​standard curve, and the results are shown in Table 8.

[0093] Table 8. Thiol content and repair rate of hair bundles

[0094]

[0095] The above experimental results show that 1wt.%-5wt.% of itaconic acid has a high reaction rate with free thiol groups in hair bundles damaged by perm reduction, so itaconic acid has the function of protecting and repairing hair structure, and 2% of itaconic acid has the highest repair rate of thiol groups in hair bundles damaged by perm reduction; the thiol content of the hair bundles after treatment in Example 5 and Example 9 shows that the compounding of itaconic acid and NaOH improves the repair rate of hair bundles damaged by perm reduction.

[0096] Comparative test of different substances on restoring damaged hair after perming:

[0097] Weigh 0.25g of perm-restored damaged hair bundles accurately and soak them in pure water solution, itaconic acid solution of Example 2, 2% active C60, 2% creatine and 10% Everbond solution, respectively. The pure water solution is used as the blank group, and the itaconic acid solution of Example 2, 2% active C60, 2% creatine and 10% Everbond solution are used as the experimental group. Set the reaction temperature to 40°C and the reaction time to 15min. Take out the treated hair bundles, wash them with clean water and dry them. The treated hair bundles are subjected to tensile performance test. The experimental results of the breaking force improvement rate of each experimental group compared with the blank group are shown in Figure 2 shown.

[0098] Figure 2 The test results show that itaconic acid is stronger than other hair-strengthening substances on the market and has a better effect on repairing hair.

[0099] It should be understood that the above embodiments are only used to illustrate the technical solutions of the present invention rather than to limit it. For those skilled in the art, the technical solutions described in the above embodiments can be modified, or some of the technical features therein can be replaced by equivalents; and all these modifications and replacements should fall within the scope of protection of the claims attached to the present invention.

Claims

1. Application of itaconic acid in the preparation of products for repairing damaged hair.

2. The use according to claim 1, characterized in that: The application concentration of itaconic acid is 1wt.%-5wt.%.

3. The use according to claim 1, characterized in that: The application pH of the itaconic acid is 2.15-2.

49.

4. The use according to claim 1, characterized in that: The damaged hair is hair damaged by perming, hair damaged by bleaching and oxidation, or hair damaged by dyeing.

5. The use according to claim 1, characterized in that: The product is a hair cleaning product or a hair care product.

6. A composition, characterized in that: The method comprises the itaconic acid according to any one of claims 1 to 5, and further comprises a pH adjuster, wherein the pH adjuster is sodium hydroxide or arginine.

7. The composition according to claim 6, characterized in that: When the pH adjuster is sodium hydroxide and the damaged hair is hair damaged by perming, the pH value of the composition is 3.9-8.

0.

8. The composition according to claim 6, characterized in that: When the pH adjuster is sodium hydroxide and the damaged hair is bleached oxidatively damaged hair, the pH value of the composition is 3.9-4.

2.

9. The composition according to claim 6, characterized in that: When the pH adjuster is arginine and the damaged hair is bleached and oxidatively damaged hair, the pH value of the composition is 3.5-5.

6.

10. Use of the composition according to any one of claims 6 to 9 in preparing a product for repairing damaged hair.

Citation Information

Patent Citations

  • Anti-dandruff composition

    CN114096231A