Composition for reinforcing keratin fibers

By using specific combinations of hair treatment compositions, the problem of difficult repair of damaged keratin fibers is solved, significantly improving the conditioning properties and appearance of hair, including enhanced combing, shine and anti-curlability.

CN119908965APending Publication Date: 2025-05-02WELLA GERMANY GMBH
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Patent Information

Application Number
CN202510144874.2
Authority / Receiving Office
CN · China
Patent Type
Applications(China)
Current Assignee / Owner
Priority Date
2022-03-25
Filing Date
2023-03-24
Publication Date
2025-05-02

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

The prior art is difficult to effectively repair and improve damaged keratin fibers, resulting in rough, messy hair and lack of smoothness and luster.

Method used

A hair treatment composition is provided that comprises a specific amount of C3-C13 saturated or unsaturated dicarboxylic acid, C10-C30 saturated or unsaturated monocarboxylic acid, C10-C50 saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbons, and a fatty acid ester of C10-C30 saturated or unsaturated monocarboxylic acid and C3-C6 monool, diol or triol.

Benefits of technology

Improves hair conditioning properties, including improved wet and dry combing, wet feel, anti-curlability, hair shine and dryness, while avoiding excessively heavy or greasy appearance of hair.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.

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Abstract

The present invention relates to a hair treatment composition and a method of using the same. Embodiments of hair treatment compositions comprise at least organic acid components (including organic dicarboxylic acids and organic fatty acids), hydrocarbons, and fatty acid esters. Depending on additional suitable additives, the hair treatment composition may be used as a hair conditioner, no-wash composition, or shampoo.
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Description

[0001] This application is a divisional application of an application with a filing date of 2023-03-24, an application number of 202310295596.1, and an invention name of “Composition for Reinforcing Keratin Fibers”. Technical Field

[0002] The present invention relates to a hair treatment composition comprising components which provide repair of damaged keratin fibres, and a method for applying said composition. Background Art

[0003] Keratin fibers and human hair (hair) can be damaged by daily life such as brushing and combing, external influences such as sunlight and pollution, and oxidative and / or reductive treatments such as hair dyeing, bleaching or perming. The damage caused by these activities includes the removal of F-layer fatty acids, the cleavage of keratin disulfide bonds, and the erosion of keratin materials at the surface of the hair fiber cuticle. The damage tends to roughen the surface of the hair fiber, much like a file roughens wood. Roughened hair strands lack smoothness and tend to behave poorly and be unkempt. Hair care goals involve attempts to reverse these trends.

[0004] One such attempt involves hair care and repair agents such as hair cortex repair formulations and related methods. It is believed that damage to the hair cortex can cause the cortical protein bundles to loosen and can cause unkemptness and roughness. One possible answer involves cross-linking using dimaleate-type molecules to rebond broken disulfide bonds in the hair cortex. See International Patent Application WO 2015 / 017768 A1. Another possible answer involves a method of reconstructing the cortex of hair fibers using cysteine ​​and at least one dicarboxylic acid. See WO 2005 / 115314 A1.

[0005] WO 2004 / 047777 A1 discloses a hair cosmetic composition comprising malic acid and lactic acid.

[0006] Frizz control is one of the ultimate goals of hair treatment compositions. There is a need for high performance frizz control products, particularly but not exclusively in the form of consumer acceptable "leave-in" formulations. Such formulations do ideally provide a good application feel (without a heavy, stiff or greasy feel), a good ability to spread and spread smoothly on the hair, and when dry, such formulations do ideally make the hair manageable and feel and look natural. There is a further need to improve the integrity and health of the hair and provide shine, flexibility, smooth hair feel and good detangling properties.

[0007] It is therefore an object of the present invention to provide a hair treatment composition which exhibits improved conditioning properties such as improved wet and dry combability, improved wet feel, improved resistance to frizz, improved hair shine and improved dry feel whilst preventing the hair from feeling greasy and unclean. Summary of the invention

[0008] The object is solved by providing a hair treatment composition comprising at least one C3-C13 saturated or unsaturated dicarboxylic acid, at least one C10-C30 saturated or unsaturated monocarboxylic acid, at least one C10-C40 saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon and at least one fatty acid ester of a C10-C30 saturated or unsaturated monocarboxylic acid with a C3-C6 mono-, di- or tri-ol in specific amounts. It has been found that the use of at least one fatty acid ester of a C10-C30 saturated or unsaturated monocarboxylic acid with a C3-C6 mono-, di- or tri-ol in a hair treatment composition further improves conditioning properties such as wet and dry combability, wet feel, anti-frizz, hair shine and dry feel without imparting excessive weight or an oily or greasy appearance to the hair.

[0009] Thus, in one aspect, the present invention relates to a hair treatment composition comprising:

[0010] a) at least one C3-C13 saturated or unsaturated dicarboxylic acid which is unsubstituted or substituted with 1, 2, 3 or 4 hydroxyl groups in a concentration of 0.05% to 15.0% by weight;

[0011] b) at least one C10-C30 saturated or unsaturated monocarboxylic acid in a weight percent concentration of 0.01% to 10.0% by weight;

[0012] c) at least one C10-C50 saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon in a weight percent concentration of 0.01 wt % to 10.0 wt %;

[0013] d) at least one fatty acid ester of a C10-C30 saturated or unsaturated monocarboxylic acid and a C3-C6 monohydric alcohol, dihydric alcohol or trihydric alcohol in a concentration of 0.1% to 5.0% by weight;

[0014] e) at least one cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium or aqueous organic medium;

[0015] Components a) and b) are present in the form of free acids or cosmetically acceptable salts thereof and all weight percentages are relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0016] The present invention relates to a hair treatment composition and corresponding methods for treating the cuticle of keratin fibers, particularly the cuticle of growing human hair damaged by daily life and chemical treatments. Embodiments of the hair treatment composition provide components to protect and repair the damaged cuticle of keratin fibers, such as human growing hair. The composition components are capable of repairing broken keratin inter-connections, smoothing hair roughness, lubricating hair, and fusing split ends. The composition components provide hair treatment without causing hair weight, oiliness, and avoid the use of animal and fish components. These composition components provide a "green technology" for the treatment and conditioning of growing hair.

[0017] The hair treatment composition may comprise a separate hair conditioner formulation, such as a rinse-off or leave-on conditioner, or may comprise the conditioning features of a sulfate or sulfate-free shampoo. The components of the hair treatment composition are green oriented in that they may be derived from plant materials and / or may be synthetic and / or semi-synthetic derivatives thereof.

[0018] Additional components for incorporation into the hair treatment composition include one or more saturated or unsaturated fatty C20-C30 alcohols; one or more cationic surfactants such as, but not limited to, quaternary ammonium compounds formed from one or more saturated and / or unsaturated fatty C20-C30 amines quaternized with one to three C1-C3 alkyl groups.

[0019] Other additives include liquid silicones, antioxidants, preservatives, antimicrobials, UV protectants, fragrances, viscosity control agents, surfactants, humectants, emollients, hair thickeners for providing body to the hair such as, but not limited to, silicas, diatomaceous earth, clays such as kaolin and montmorillonite layered silicates, and colorants and / or glossing agents.

[0020] Use embodiments of the hair treatment composition according to the present invention include sulfate shampoo, non-sulfate shampoo, nonionic surfactant hair cleansing liquid, stand-alone conditioner, mask, leave on treatment, rinse off conditioner, rinse-off conditioner, hair rinse, hair liquid, hair oil, hair pomade, hair foam, hair spray, hair tonic and / or hair lotion, all utilizing the hair treatment composition as at least part of the use embodiment.

[0021] Another aspect of the present invention relates to a method for applying a hair treatment composition and / or any use embodiment thereof to hair, preferably anagen hair. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0022] The following detailed description is merely exemplary in nature and is not intended to limit the invention or the application and uses of the invention. In addition, it is not intended to be bound by any theory presented in the foregoing technical field, background, summary or the following detailed description.

[0023] As used herein, the terms "comprising / comprises / comprised of" are synonymous with "including / includes" or "containing / contains", and are inclusive or open-ended and do not exclude additional, unrecited members, elements, or method steps. It should be understood that, as used herein, the terms "comprising / comprises / comprised of" include the terms "consisting of / consists / consists of".

[0024] In addition, the terms "(a)", "(b)", "(c)", "(d)", etc. in the specification and claims are used to distinguish similar elements and are not necessarily used to describe a sequential or chronological order. It should be understood that the terms so used are interchangeable where appropriate, and that the embodiments of the subject matter described herein are capable of operating in other sequences than those described or illustrated herein. Where the terms "(A)", "(B)" and "(C)" or "(a)", "(b)", "(c)", "(d)", "(i)", "(ii)", etc. refer to steps of a method or use or assay, there is no temporal or temporal coherence between these steps, that is, the steps may be performed simultaneously, or there may be a time interval of seconds, minutes, hours, days, weeks, months or even years between such steps, unless otherwise indicated in the application as set forth herein in context.

[0025] When used in relation to a weight ratio or weight percentage, the term "about" means that a particular value should be understood to represent a range of ±10%. For example, a weight ratio of about 1% of a compound means a weight ratio in the range of 0.9% to 1.1%. For example, a weight ratio of about 2.5% of a compound means a weight ratio in the range of 2.25% to 2.75%.

[0026] In the following paragraphs, different aspects of the subject matter will be defined in more detail. Unless explicitly indicated to the contrary, each aspect so defined can be combined with any other aspect or aspects. In particular, any feature indicated as being preferred or advantageous can be combined with any other feature or features indicated as being preferred or advantageous.

[0027] References to "one embodiment" or "preferred embodiment" throughout this specification mean that a particular feature, structure, or characteristic described in conjunction with the embodiment is included in at least one embodiment of the present invention. Therefore, the phrases "in one embodiment" or "in a preferred embodiment" appearing throughout this specification do not necessarily all refer to the same embodiment, but may refer to different embodiments of the present invention. In addition, in one or more embodiments, the features, structures, or characteristics may be combined in any suitable manner, as will be apparent to those skilled in the art in light of this disclosure. In addition, although some embodiments described herein include some other features that are not included in other embodiments, the combination of features of different embodiments is intended to be within the scope of the subject matter and to form different embodiments, as will be understood by those skilled in the art. For example, in the appended claims, any of the embodiments claimed for protection may be used in any combination.

[0028] In addition, ranges defined throughout the specification also include the endpoints, i.e., a range of 1 to 10 means that both 1 and 10 are included in the range. For the avoidance of doubt, the applicant shall be entitled to any equivalents under applicable law.

[0029] For the purposes of the present invention, "weight %" or "wt. %" as used herein is relative to the total weight of the bleaching powder. Furthermore, the sum of the weight % of all compounds as described herein in the respective components adds up to 100 weight %.

[0030] Unless expressly excluded or otherwise limited, each document cited herein (including any cross-referenced or related patents or applications) is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety. Citation of any document is not an admission that it is prior art with respect to any invention disclosed or claimed herein, nor is it an admission that it alone or in any combination with any other reference or references teaches, suggests, or discloses any such invention. In addition, to the extent that any meaning or definition of a term in this document conflicts with any meaning or definition of the same term in a document incorporated by reference, the meaning or definition assigned to that term in this document shall prevail.

[0031] The measurement techniques described above and herein are well known to those skilled in the art and therefore do not limit the present invention.

[0032] "User" or "customer" means the person who prepares the hair treatment composition. The user is, for example, a professional hair stylist working in a salon and is different from the subject to whom the composition is applied on the hair, or the user is the same as the person to whom the composition is applied on the hair. Mixing can be done in a bowl or in a bottle, or even by a mixer placed between the storage of the separate compositions and the point where they are dispensed for use. Although the most common on the market are two-component bleaching powders, there are other bleaching powders that use three or more components.

[0033] As used herein, the term "anagen hair" means a hair strand that is directly connected to a hair follicle that is in the anagen or telogen state. Anagen hair exists on the scalp of a person (human) in one of these states, and its follicle is attached to a sebaceous gland that substantially continuously secretes sebum and long-chain fatty acids onto the surface of the hair shaft. When hair grows out of the follicle, it carries a coating of secreted sebum and long-chain fatty acids. The fatty acid coating is called the f-layer and is tightly entangled with the keratin at the surface of the hair shaft. Hair cut from a living person is no longer anagen hair.

[0034] Keratin fiber means the hair on the human scalp, preferably the growing hair. Keratin fiber, also known as hair, includes cells forming an inner cortex as a core and an outer skin as an outer covering around the outer skin. Hair chemical components include proteins, polynucleic acids, amino acids, minerals, melanin, lipids (including fatty acids, fatty alcohols, triglycerides, phospholipids, cholesterol and squalene). These components are configured as cells, fibrils, connective tissue, extracellular connections, pigments, keratin and related structures. The outer layer of the outer skin is configured as a sheath of overlapping flat cells, and its structure is similar to the bark of a palm tree or the scales of a fish. Similar to the scales of a fish, the surface of the outer skin is smooth in the direction from the root to the tip, and is rough in the direction from the tip to the root.

[0035] The following materials are used in embodiments of the present invention. The present invention is described using non-limiting embodiments. The listed ingredients are preferred features of the present invention as well as other preferred but non-limiting features.

[0036] The measurement techniques described above and herein are well known to those skilled in the art and therefore do not limit the present invention.

[0037] The present invention relates to a hair treatment composition that delivers components and materials to replenish and add to damaged anagen hair. The hair treatment composition may be incorporated as part of another cosmetic composition such as a shampoo, or may be formulated as a stand-alone composition such as, but not limited to, a conditioner composition.

[0038] Growing hair can be damaged by abrasion and degradation caused by perming, redox treatments, shampooing, brushing, combing and / or friction (such as with towels, hats, bonnets, etc.). These activities performed on growing hair strands cause the hair strands to thin, break, break, split and otherwise become damaged. This damage is believed to be caused by the lifting of cellular scales on the surface of the hair cuticle and the removal of lubricating substances from the scales. The lifting and delubrication causes the inter-scale connections of fatty acids, phospholipids and disulfide bonds to break, displace, break and interrupt. As a result of the lifted individual scales of the cuticle, water, soap, shampoo and similar solubilizing agents are able to penetrate the cuticle. This penetration can dilute, solubilize and disperse the micro-connections between the lifted scales. The result is a weakening of the hair cuticle, causing the hair strands to break, break and split.

[0039] Embodiments of the hair treatment compositions according to the present invention replace and reunite the inter-scale connections of the hair strands, coat the hair strand scale surfaces, and close the inter-scale spaces created by lift-off. The result is believed to strengthen the hair strands and make them less susceptible to lift-off. Strengthening can be measured by the ease of combing of such treated hair strands.

[0040] In one embodiment, component a) is at least one C3-C6 saturated or unsaturated dicarboxylic acid, wherein the saturated dicarboxylic acid is optionally substituted by 1, 2, 3 or 4 hydroxyl groups. Preferably, at least one C3-C6 saturated or unsaturated dicarboxylic acid (wherein the saturated dicarboxylic acid is optionally substituted by 1, 2, 3 or 4 hydroxyl groups) is selected from the group consisting of malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, malic acid, 2-methylmalic acid, hydroxyglutaric acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid, glutaconic acid, tartaric acid, 2-methyltartaric acid, 2-hydroxy-3-methylglutaric acid, hydroxyadipic acid and hydroxyglutaric acid.

[0041] In another embodiment, component a) is at least one C3-C6 saturated dicarboxylic acid substituted by 1, 2, 3 or 4 hydroxyl groups. Preferably, at least one C3-C6 saturated dicarboxylic acid substituted by 1, 2, 3 or 4 hydroxyl groups is selected from the group consisting of malic acid, 2-methylmalic acid, hydroxyglutaric acid, tartaric acid, 2-methyltartaric acid, 2-hydroxy-3-methylglutaric acid, hydroxyadipic acid and hydroxyglutaric acid.

[0042] In one embodiment, component a) is preferably present in a weight percent concentration in the range of 0.1 wt % to 10.0 wt %, more preferably in a weight percent concentration in the range of 0.2 wt % to 5.0 wt %.

[0043] In one embodiment, component b) is preferably at least one C16-C22 saturated or unsaturated monocarboxylic acid. In another embodiment, at least one C16-C22 saturated or unsaturated monocarboxylic acid is selected from the group consisting of the following: palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid, palmitoleic acid, sapienic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, vaccenic acid and linoleic acid. In another embodiment, at least one C16-C22 monocarboxylic acid is monounsaturated. In another embodiment, component b) is palmitoleic acid or oleic acid, and particularly component b) is oleic acid.

[0044] Each of the dicarboxylic acids and monocarboxylic acids of the hair treatment composition may independently be in the form of a free carboxylic acid or may be a cosmetically acceptable salt thereof, wherein the counterion may be an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal cation which does not cause precipitation of the salt form, preferably including sodium, potassium, lithium, magnesium, zinc, copper and aluminium cations, more preferably sodium, potassium and lithium, and even more preferably sodium and potassium.

[0045] In one embodiment, component b) is present in a weight percent concentration in the range of 0.05 wt % to 1.0 wt %, more preferably in the range of 0.05 wt % to 0.5 wt %.

[0046] The concentration ranges of the dicarboxylic acid (i.e., component a)) and the monocarboxylic acid (i.e., component b)) follow a general relationship in which the weight percentage of the dicarboxylic acid relative to the total weight of the composition is greater than that of the monocarboxylic acid. The ratio of the dicarboxylic acid to the monocarboxylic acid is in the range of about 2:1 to about 10:1, preferably about 2:1 to about 5:1.

[0047] In one embodiment, the at least one C10-C50 saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon is selected from the group consisting of alkanes and saturated acyclic terpenes.

[0048] In one embodiment, at least one saturated acyclic terpene is a monoterpene, a sesquiterpene, a diterpene, a sesterterpane, a triterpene or a tetraterpene. In another embodiment, at least one saturated acyclic terpene is selected from the group consisting of 2,6-dimethyloctane, 2,6,10,15,19-pentamethyleicosane, farnesane, phytane, squalane, isosqualane, neosqualane and lycopane. In yet another embodiment, at least one saturated acyclic terpene is selected from the group consisting of squalane, isosqualane and neosqualane, preferably at least one saturated acyclic terpene is squalane. As used herein, "squalane" refers to an oil and is also known as 2,6,10,15,19,23-hexamethyltetracosane. In one embodiment, squalane is a synthetic squalane obtained by chemical synthesis, or a semi-synthetic squalane obtained by reduction from naturally occurring squalene. Squalene is found in deep-sea fish such as sharks, or in olive oil, rice bran oil, wheat germ oil, sesame oil, and cottonseed oil. Squalane can also be obtained from sugar cane.

[0049] In a preferred embodiment, the hair treatment composition comprises squalane derived from bio-based farnesene, or squalane, isosqualane and neosqualane derived from bio-based farnesene, i.e. squalane, isosqualane and neosqualane produced from bio-based farnesene by catalytic reaction, chemical reaction, thermal reaction, hydrogenation or any combination thereof.

[0050] As used herein, the term "biobased farnesene" refers to farnesene biologically produced by microorganisms (particularly genetically modified microorganisms) through fermentation of renewable carbon sources such as sugars. As used herein, "farnesene" refers to α-farnesene, β-farnesene, or a mixture thereof. α-farnesene refers to a compound having the following structure:

[0051]

[0052] Its stereoisomers or stereoisomer mixtures.

[0053] β-Farnesene refers to a compound with the following structure:

[0054]

[0055] Its stereoisomers or mixtures.

[0056] In one embodiment, β-farnesene is a substantially pure stereoisomer of β-farnesene. In another embodiment, β-farnesene includes a mixture of stereoisomers such as cis- and trans-isomers. In another embodiment, the amount of each stereoisomer in the β-farnesene mixture is preferably in the range of ≥ 0.1 wt % to ≤ 99.9 wt %, more preferably in the range of ≥ 1.0 wt % to ≤ 99.0 wt %, even more preferably in the range of ≥ 5.0 wt % to ≤ 95.0 wt %, still more preferably in the range of ≥ 10 wt % to ≤ 90 wt %, most preferably in the range of ≥ 20 wt % to ≤ 80 wt %, based on the total weight of the β-farnesene mixture.

[0057] In one embodiment, the at least one saturated acyclic terpene has a degree of branching of 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 or 8, preferably the at least one saturated acyclic terpene has a degree of branching of 6.

[0058] In yet another embodiment, the at least one saturated acyclic terpene, preferably squalane, is preferably present in an amount in the range of ≥ 0.01 wt.-% to ≤ 1.0 wt.-%, more preferably in the range of ≥ 0.02 wt.-% to ≤ 0.8 wt.-%, even more preferably in the range of ≥ 0.03 wt.-% to ≤ 0.7 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition.

[0059] In yet another embodiment, the paraffin is preferably present in an amount in the range of ≥ 1.0 wt.-% to ≤ 6.0 wt.-%, more preferably in the range of ≥ 1.5 wt.-% to ≤ 5.0 wt.-%, even more preferably in the range of ≥ 2.0 wt.-% to ≤ 4.5 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition.

[0060] In one embodiment, the fatty acid ester is a fatty acid ester of a C16-C18 saturated or unsaturated monocarboxylic acid esterified with a C3-C6 monohydric alcohol (monoalcohol), a dihydric alcohol or a trihydric alcohol (preferably a trihydric alcohol, more preferably a C3 or C4 trihydric alcohol and most preferably glycerol). Preferred fatty acid esters are monopalmitolein, monoolein or a combination thereof, wherein monoolein alone is more preferred.

[0061] In one embodiment, component d) is preferably present in a weight percent concentration in the range of 0.15 wt % to 3.0 wt %, more preferably in a weight percent concentration in the range of 0.15 wt % to 2.5 wt %, even more preferably in a weight percent concentration in the range of 0.15 wt % to 2.0 wt %, in particular in a weight percent concentration in the range of 0.15 wt % to 2.0 wt %.

[0062] Preferably, when the hair treatment composition comprises a component of a sulfate and / or sulfate-free shampoo, the lipid component may optionally comprise two forms of fatty acid esters, including mono-fatty acid esters formed with triols and di-fatty acid esters formed with triols. When the hair treatment composition comprises a component of a sulfate-free shampoo, the lipid component may optionally comprise hydrocarbons as a substitute for di-fatty acid esters in the combination of mono- and di-fatty acid esters. When the hair treatment composition comprises a stand-alone conditioner, a hair mask, a leave-in treatment, a rinse-off conditioner, a rinse-off conditioner, a hair lotion, a hair oil, a hair cream, a hair foam, a hair spray, a hair tonic and / or a hair wash, the lipid component may be both mono-fatty acid esters formed with triols and hydrocarbons.

[0063] Embodiments of the present invention incorporate not only an organic acid component, but also an organic acidulant and alkalizer such as citric acid, acetic acid, tartaric acid, hydrochloric acid, and an alkali metal hydroxide such as sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide. These agents are capable of balancing the pH of the composition of the present invention so that it is not an irritant to humans, such as the human scalp and / or face. Thus, the acidulant and alkalizer may be adjusted so that the pH is in the range of about 5 to about 9, preferably in the range of about 6 to about 8.

[0064] The additional components of embodiments of the hair treatment composition depend at least in part on the purpose and function of the hair treatment composition. For example, if the hair treatment composition is part of a shampoo, anionic and / or nonionic surfactants may be included. If the hair treatment composition is part of a rinse-off or leave-on conditioner, cationic surfactants and / or cationic polymers may be included. Moisturizers, humectants, thickeners, emulsifiers, and other additives for providing beneficial qualities may be included in the hair treatment composition.

[0065] The hair treatment composition of the present invention may comprise a cationic surfactant, an optional silicone component and an aqueous carrier. The surfactant, silicone and aqueous carrier may be in the form of an emulsion.

[0066] The compositions of the present invention may optionally include a cationic surfactant system, especially when the compositions of the present invention are used to provide conditioning properties. The cationic surfactant system may include one cationic surfactant or a mixture of two or more cationic surfactants. When present, the cationic surfactant system may be included in the composition at a weight level of from about 0.1% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 8%, more preferably from about 0.8% to about 5%, still more preferably from about 1.0% to about 4%, relative to the total weight of the composition. Embodiments of cationic surfactants useful in the hair treatment compositions of the present invention include common and conventional quaternary ammonium salts of C14-C30 straight chain alkylamines quaternized with three methyl groups. Examples include behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride and similar trimethylammonium compounds.

[0067] In a preferred embodiment, the hair treatment composition (preferably a conditioner) according to the invention comprises at least one cationic surfactant selected from the group consisting of cetrimonium halide, stearimonium halide, behentrimonium halide, dodecyltrimethylammonium halide, didodecyldimethylammonium halide, tetradecyltrimethylammonium halide, distearyldimethylammonium halide, dicetyldimethylammonium halide, 1,2-dimethyl-1,2-dimethyl-1,2-dimethyl-1,2-dimethyl-1,2-dimethyl-1,2-dimethyl-1,2-dimethyl-1,2-dimethyl-1,2-dimethyl-1,2-dimethyl-1,2-dimethyl-1,2-dimethyl-1,2-dimethyl-1,2-dimethyl-1,2-dimethyl-1,2-dimethyl-1,2-dimethyl-1,2-dimethyl-1,2-dimethyl-1,2-dimethyl-1,2-dimethyl-1 halide), behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethyl-amine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamido-propyidiethylamine, arachidamidoethyidiethylamine, and arachidamidoethyidimethylamine.

[0068] The hair treatment composition of the present invention may also include one or more silicone conditioning agents. Examples of silicones include dimethicone, dimethiconol, cyclic silicones and modified silicones with various functional groups such as amino, quaternary ammonium salt groups and amine silicones such as amino-terminated polydimethylsiloxane (Amodimethicone). Such silicones may be soluble or insoluble in aqueous (or aqueous organic) media. In the case of insoluble liquid silicones, the polymer may be in an emulsified form with a droplet size of about 10 nm to about 30 microns. Other solid or semi-solid conditioning agents may be present in the composition, including high melting temperature fatty alcohols, acids, esters, amides or oligomers from unsaturated esters, alcohols, amides. Oligoesters may be the result of oligomerization of naturally occurring unsaturated glycerides. Such solid or semi-solid conditioning agents may be added or present as a mixture with an organic oil.

[0069] In one embodiment, the hair treatment composition is a shampoo comprising:

[0070] a) at least one C3-C13 saturated or unsaturated dicarboxylic acid which is unsubstituted or substituted with 1, 2, 3 or 4 hydroxyl groups in a concentration of 0.2% to 4.0% by weight;

[0071] b) at least one C10-C30 saturated or unsaturated monocarboxylic acid in a concentration of 0.05% to 1.0% by weight;

[0072] c) at least one C10-C50 saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon in a weight percent concentration of 0.01 wt % to 0.5 wt %;

[0073] d) at least one fatty acid ester of a C10-C30 saturated or unsaturated monocarboxylic acid and a C3-C6 monohydric alcohol, dihydric alcohol or trihydric alcohol in a concentration of 0.1% to 1.0% by weight;

[0074] e) at least one cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium or aqueous organic medium;

[0075] Components a) and b) are present in the form of free acids or cosmetically acceptable salts thereof and all weight percentages are relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0076] In a preferred embodiment, the hair treatment composition is a shampoo comprising:

[0077] a) malic acid in a concentration of 0.2 wt % to 4.0 wt %;

[0078] b) oleic acid in a concentration of 0.05 wt % to 1.0 wt %;

[0079] c) squalane in a weight percent concentration of 0.01 wt % to 0.2 wt %;

[0080] d) glyceryl monooleate in a concentration of 0.1 wt % to 0.5 wt %;

[0081] e) at least one cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium or aqueous organic medium;

[0082] Components a) and b) are present in the form of free acids or cosmetically acceptable salts thereof and all weight percentages are relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0083] In one embodiment, the hair treatment composition is a conditioner comprising:

[0084] a) at least one C3-C13 saturated or unsaturated dicarboxylic acid which is unsubstituted or substituted with 1, 2, 3 or 4 hydroxyl groups in a concentration of 0.2% to 5.0% by weight;

[0085] b) at least one C10-C30 saturated or unsaturated monocarboxylic acid in a concentration of 0.05% to 1.0% by weight;

[0086] c) at least one C10-C50 saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon in a weight percent concentration of 0.01 wt % to 10.0 wt %;

[0087] d) at least one fatty acid ester of a C10-C30 saturated or unsaturated monocarboxylic acid and a C3-C6 monohydric alcohol, dihydric alcohol or trihydric alcohol in a concentration of 0.1% to 3.0% by weight;

[0088] e) at least one cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium or aqueous organic medium;

[0089] Components a) and b) are present in the form of free acids or cosmetically acceptable salts thereof and all weight percentages are relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0090] In a preferred embodiment, the hair treatment composition is a conditioner comprising:

[0091] a) malic acid in a concentration of 0.2 wt % to 5.0 wt %;

[0092] b) oleic acid in a concentration of 0.05 wt % to 1.0 wt %;

[0093] c) at least one C10-C50 saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon selected from the group consisting of squalane and paraffins in a weight percent concentration of 0.01 wt % to 10.0 wt %;

[0094] d) glyceryl monooleate in a concentration of 0.2% to 2.0% by weight;

[0095] e) at least one cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium or aqueous organic medium;

[0096] Components a) and b) are present in the form of free acids or cosmetically acceptable salts thereof and all weight percentages are relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0097] In one embodiment, the hair treatment composition is a leave-in treatment comprising:

[0098] a) at least one C3-C13 saturated or unsaturated dicarboxylic acid which is unsubstituted or substituted with 1, 2, 3 or 4 hydroxyl groups in a concentration of 0.1% to 1.0% by weight;

[0099] b) at least one C10-C30 saturated or unsaturated monocarboxylic acid in a concentration of 0.05% to 1.0% by weight;

[0100] c) at least one C10-C50 saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon in a concentration of 0.05 wt % to 1.0 wt %;

[0101] d) at least one fatty acid ester of a C10-C30 saturated or unsaturated monocarboxylic acid and a C3-C6 monohydric alcohol, dihydric alcohol or trihydric alcohol in a concentration of 0.1% to 1.0% by weight;

[0102] e) at least one cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium or aqueous organic medium;

[0103] Components a) and b) are present in the form of free acids or cosmetically acceptable salts thereof and all weight percentages are relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0104] In a preferred embodiment, the hair treatment composition is a leave-in treatment comprising:

[0105] a) malic acid in a concentration of 0.1 wt % to 1.0 wt %;

[0106] b) oleic acid in a concentration of 0.05 wt % to 1.0 wt %;

[0107] c) squalane in a concentration of 0.05 wt % to 1.0 wt %;

[0108] d) glyceryl monooleate in a concentration of 0.1 wt % to 1.0 wt %;

[0109] e) at least one cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium or aqueous organic medium;

[0110] Components a) and b) are present in the form of free acids or cosmetically acceptable salts thereof and all weight percentages are relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0111] When an embodiment of the hair treatment composition is formulated as a shampoo, the shampoo will include a surfactant such as a sulfate or non-sulfate anionic surfactant or a non-ionic surfactant or any combination thereof. According to the present invention, an embodiment of the surfactant component of the shampoo composition may include at least one member of the anionic surfactant class, including sulfate anionic surfactants or non-sulfate anionic surfactants. The anionic surfactant class may also include multiple species of each member and combinations of these class members and any combination of multiple species of two members.

[0112] In addition, the surfactant component can also include the nonionic surfactant combined with any variant of the above-mentioned anionic surfactant category. Preferably, the surfactant component can include a mixture of one or more independent sulfate anionic surfactants, independent one or more non-sulfate anionic surfactants, a small amount of one or more sulfate anionic surfactants and a large amount of one or more non-sulfate anionic surfactants, a mixture of one or more sulfate anionic surfactants and one or more non-ionic surfactants or a mixture of one or more non-sulfate anionic surfactants and one or more non-ionic surfactants. More preferably, the surfactant component can include independent one or more non-sulfate anionic surfactants. In addition preferably, the surfactant component can include one or more non-sulfate anionic surfactants combined with one or more non-ionic surfactants. Especially more preferably, the surfactant component can include a combination of two members of the surfactant category, such as but not limited to a combination of one or more sulfate-free non-sulfate anionic surfactants and one or more non-ionic surfactants.

[0113] Another particularly preferred surfactant class may include any of the embodiments comprising non-sulfate anionic surfactants that may not contain any sulfate anionic surfactants. This surfactant class may be characterized as sulfate-free non-sulfate anionic surfactants. In the absence of the "sulfate-free" feature, the surfactant component comprising non-sulfate anionic surfactants and / or nonionic surfactants may include (but not necessarily include) small concentrations to almost undetectable concentrations of sulfate anionic surfactants, which may be present inadvertently or purposefully.

[0114] The sulfate anionic surfactant class of the surfactant component of the shampoo composition of the present invention may comprise branched and / or linear C8 to C20 alkyl sulfates, linear and / or branched C8 to C20 alkyl benzene sulfates, or linear and / or branched C8 to C20 alkyl benzyl sulfates, or corresponding ethers and / or glyceryl and / or sugar alcohol derivatives obtained from ethylene oxide / ethylene glycol, propylene oxide / 1,2-propylene glycol, glycerol and / or sugar alcohol monomers. The linear and / or branched alkyl group may be of a single chain length or may be a mixture of multiple chain lengths.

[0115] Exemplary sulfate anionic surfactants include one or more of sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate, ammonium lauryl sulfate, ammonium laureth sulfate, triethylamine lauryl sulfate, triethylamine laureth sulfate, triethanolamine lauryl sulfate, triethanolamine laureth sulfate, monoethanolamine lauryl sulfate, monoethanolamine laureth sulfate, diethanolamine lauryl sulfate, diethanolamine laureth sulfate, sodium lauric acid monoglyceride sulfate, potassium lauryl sulfate, potassium laureth sulfate, ammonium cocoyl sulfate, sodium cocoyl sulfate, potassium cocoyl sulfate, monoethanolamine cocoyl sulfate, monoethanolamine lauryl sulfate, sodium tridecylbenzene sulfate, and sodium dodecylbenzene sulfate.

[0116] The non-sulfate anionic surfactant class of the surfactant component of the shampoo composition of the present invention can be selected from the group of the following items: acyl isethionate / methyl isethionate, acyl glycinate, acyl taurate, acyl amino acid, acyl sarcosinate, sulfosuccinate and sulfonate, wherein the acyl group in all these surfactant classes contains 6 to 30 carbon atoms. The non-sulfate anionic surfactant can also include more than one of these surfactants, and can include their mixtures. The non-sulfate anionic surfactant segment can also include alkali metal salts and alkaline earth metal salts of one or more or mixtures of individual compounds of any of these surfactant classes, and mixtures thereof.

[0117] In a preferred embodiment, the hair treatment composition (preferably a shampoo) according to the invention comprises at least one alkanolamide surfactant selected from the group consisting of acetamide MEA, cocamide MEA, cocamide DEA, cocamide methyl MEA, cocamide MIPA, hydroxystearamide MEA, PEG-5 cocamide MEA, lactamide MEA, lauramide MEA and lauramide DEA.

[0118] Fatty alcohols may be optionally included in embodiments of shampoos and conditioning hair treatment compositions of the present invention. Fatty alcohols provide emulsifying, occlusive, moisturizing, thickening and wetting properties to hair treatment compositions. Included are fatty alcohols having a linear or branched carbon chain of about 12 to about 30 carbons and mixtures thereof. Fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated. Preferred fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, such as cetearyl alcohol (a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol).

[0119] In a preferred embodiment, the hair treatment composition (preferably a shampoo) according to the invention comprises at least one betaine selected from the group consisting of alkyl betaines, alkylamidopropyl betaines and alkyl sultaines.

[0120] In a preferred embodiment, the hair treatment composition (preferably a shampoo) according to the invention comprises at least one alkyl betaine of the general formula (V),

[0121] (V),

[0122] Where R f is a substituted or unsubstituted alkyl or alkenyl group having 7 to 22 carbon atoms, and R g and R h are each identically or differently selected from the group consisting of a C1-C6 alkyl group, a C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl group, and a C1-C6 carboxyalkyl group. f Preferably it is a mixture of C12 and C14 alkyl groups derived from coconut, such that R f At least half, preferably at least three quarters, of the radicals have 10 to 14 carbon atoms. g and R h Preferred is methyl.

[0123] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one betaine is selected from the group consisting of coco betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, lauryl betaine, lauryl hydroxysultaine, lauryl dimethyl betaine, cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, behenyl betaine, caprylyl betaine, caprylamidopropyl betaine and stearyl betaine, more preferably the at least one betaine (D) is cocamidopropyl betaine.

[0124] In a preferred embodiment, at least one betaine is present in the cleaning composition of the present invention in an amount in the range of ≥ 2.0 to ≤ 10.0 wt.-%, more preferably in the range of ≥ 3.0 to ≤ 9.0 wt.-%, even more preferably in the range of ≥ 4.0 to ≤ 8.0 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition.

[0125] In a preferred embodiment, the hair treatment composition (preferably a shampoo) according to the invention comprises at least one conditioning agent. The conditioning agent is preferably a cationic or amphoteric conditioning agent.

[0126] In a preferred embodiment, at least one conditioning agent is a cationic cellulose. Cationic cellulose includes salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with trimethyl ammonium substituted epoxides (known in the industry as polyquaternium-10). Another type of cationic cellulose includes polymeric quaternary ammonium salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with lauryl dimethyl ammonium substituted epoxides (known in the industry as polyquaternium-24).

[0127] In another preferred embodiment, at least one conditioning agent is a cationic polysaccharide polymer, especially a cationic guar gum derivative, such as guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride commercially available from Solvay in its JAGUAR trademark series.

[0128] In a preferred embodiment, at least one conditioning agent is selected from the group consisting of Polyquaternium-1, Polyquaternium-2, Polyquaternium-4, Polyquaternium-5, Polyquaternium-6, Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium-8, Polyquaternium-9, Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-11, Polyquaternium-12, Polyquaternium-13, Polyquaternium-14, Polyquaternium-15, Polyquaternium-16, Polyquaternium-17, Polyquaternium-18, Polyquaternium-19, Polyquaternium-20, Polyquaternium-22, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-27, Polyquaternium-28, Polyquaternium-29, Polyquaternium-30, Polyquaternium-31, Polyquaternium-32, Polyquaternium-33, Polyquaternium-34, Polyquaternium-35, Polyquaternium-36, Polyquaternium-37, Polyquaternium-38, Polyquaternium-39, Polyquaternium-43, Polyquaternium-44, Polyquaternium-45, Polyquaternium-46, Polyquaternium-4 7. Polyquaternium-48, Polyquaternium-49, Polyquaternium-50, Polyquaternium-52, Polyquaternium-53, Polyquaternium-54, Polyquaternium-55, Polyquaternium-56, Polyquaternium-57, Polyquaternium-58, Polyquaternium-59, Polyquaternium-60, Polyquaternium-63, Polyquaternium-64, Polyquaternium-65, Polyquaternium-66, Polyquaternium-67, Polyquaternium-70, Polyquaternium-73, Polyquaternium-74, Polyquaternium -75, polyquaternium-76, polyquaternium-85, polyquaternium-86, poly-β-alanine, poly-ε-lysine, polylysine, PEG-8 / SMDI copolymer, PPG-12 / SMDI copolymer, PPG-51 / SMDI copolymer, PPG-7 / succinic acid copolymer, IPDI / PEG-15 cocamine copolymer, IPDI / PEG-15 cocamine copolymer dimer dilinoleate, IPDI / PEG-15 soyamine copolymer, IPDI / PEG-15 soyamine oxide copolymer, IPDI / PEG-15 soyethonium ethosulfate copolymercopolymer), polyquaternium-4 / hydroxypropyl starch copolymer, cinnamon hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, chitosan hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, dextran hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, galactoarabinan hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, ginseng hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, locust bean hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, starch hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hydroxypropyltrimethyl hydrolyzed corn starch, hydroxypropyl oxidized starch PG-trimonium chloride, tamarindus indica hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, polyacrylamide propyltrimonium chloride, polymethacrylamide propyltrimonium chloride, polyacrylamide propyltrimonium methosulfate, propyltrimonium chloride methacrylamide / dimethylacrylamide copolymer, acrylamide / dimethylbenzyl ammonium chloride (ethalkonium chloride) acrylate copolymer, acrylamide / ethyltrimethylammonium chloride acrylate / dimethylbenzyl ammonium chloride acrylate copolymer, acrylate / urethane copolymer, adipic acid / methyl DEA crosspolymer, diethylene glycol / DMAP acrylamide / PEG-180 / HDI copolymer, dihydroxyethyl tallowamine / IPDI copolymer, dimethylamine / ethylenediamine / epichlorohydrin copolymer, HEMA glucoside / ethyl trimethylammonium chloride copolymer, hydrolyzed wheat protein / PEG-20 acetate copolymer, hydrolyzed wheat protein / PVP crosspolymer, ethyltrimethylammonium chloride methacrylate / hydroxyethyl acrylamide copolymer; more preferably, at least one component (E) is selected from the group consisting of polyquaternium-10 and guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.

[0129] In a preferred embodiment, at least one conditioning agent is present in the hair treatment composition (preferably shampoo) of the present invention in an amount in the range of ≥ 0.1 to ≤ 1.0 wt.-%, more preferably in the range of ≥ 0.1 to ≤ 0.9 wt.-%, even more preferably in the range of ≥ 0.1 to ≤ 0.8, 0.7, 0.6 or 0.5 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition (preferably shampoo).

[0130] The hair treatment compositions of the present invention may comprise an aqueous carrier as a cosmetically acceptable medium. Thus, embodiments of the compositions of the present invention may be in the form of pourable liquids (under ambient conditions). Thus, such compositions will typically comprise an aqueous carrier, which may be present at a level of from about 20% to about 95% by weight or from about 60% to about 85-90% by weight. The aqueous carrier may comprise water, or a miscible mixture of water and an organic solvent, and in one aspect may comprise water with little or no significant concentration of an organic solvent, except otherwise inadvertently incorporated into the composition as a minor ingredient of other components.

[0131] The aqueous carrier useful in the present invention may alternatively include aqueous solutions of lower alkyl alcohols and polyols. The lower alkyl alcohol useful herein is a monohydric alcohol having 1 to 6 carbons, in one aspect, ethanol and isopropanol. The polyhydric alcohol useful herein includes propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol and propanediol. The aqueous organic carrier useful in the hair treatment composition of the present invention may contain about 50 wt % to about 99 wt % of water, preferably about 75 wt % to about 95 wt % of water, more preferably about 85 wt % to about 95 wt % of water, the remainder being any one of a monohydric alcohol or a polyhydric alcohol, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol and glycerol, or a mixture of any two or more thereof.

[0132] The composition of the present invention may further comprise any other suitable optional ingredients as desired. For example, the composition may optionally include other active or inactive ingredients known to be beneficial to scalp health.

[0133] In one embodiment of the present invention, scalp health actives may be added to provide scalp benefits. Such scalp health materials are numerous and provide a wide range of benefits, including anti-dandruff, anti-fungal, anti-microbial, moisturizing, barrier improvement, and antioxidant, anti-itching, and sensate. Such health actives include, but are not limited to: zinc pyrithione, climbazole, octopirox, vitamins E and F, salicylic acid, phenoxyethanol, ethylhexylglycerin, glycols, glycolic acid, PCA, PEG, erythritol, glycerin, lactates, hyaluronates, allantoin and other ureas, betaines, sorbitol, glutamate, xylitol, menthol, menthyl lactate, isocyclomone, benzyl alcohol, and natural extracts / oils (including peppermint, spearmint, argan, jojoba, and aloe). The composition may contain other common hair ingredients. The CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, 10th Edition (published by the Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, Inc., Washington, DC) (2004) (hereinafter referred to as "CTFA") describes a wide variety of non-limiting materials that can be added to the compositions herein. Examples of these ingredient categories include, but are not limited to, aesthetic components such as fragrances, pigments, colorants / colorants, essential oils, sensates, defoamers, antimicrobial agents, biological additives, buffers, bulking agents, chelating agents, chemical additives, astringents, biocides, film formers or materials, pH adjusters, reducing agents, sequestrants, and surfactants.

[0134] In a preferred embodiment, hair treatment compositions (preferably conditioners) according to the invention comprise at least one liquid oil.

[0135] For example, the liquid oil can be selected from the group consisting of avocado oil, tsubaki oil, turtle oil, macadamia nuts oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, egg yolk oil, sesame oil, parsic oil, wheat germ oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, linseed oil, safflower oil, cottonseed oil, perilla oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, tea seed oil, kaya oil, rice bran oil, Chinese tung oil, Japanese tung oil, jojoba oil, germ oil, triglycerol, tricaprylin, triisopalmitin, liquid lanolin, hexyl laurate, liquid hydrocarbon esters such as fluid paraffin, mineral oil, isododecane, fatty acid oils, ester oils such as cetyl octanoate, isopropyl myristate, and mixtures thereof.

[0136] The hair treatment composition can be applied directly to the growing hair (the hair on the human head) or can be diluted with water or a combination of water and a water-miscible alcohol and applied to the growing hair. After application, the hair treatment composition on the hair can be massaged and acted on the hair to distribute the composition throughout the hair. After sufficient time has passed to complete the cleaning, conditioning and / or other functions of the hair treatment composition on the hair, the hair can be rinsed with water, or if the hair treatment composition is a leave-in type, the hair can be briefly smoothed to remove excess composition (if any).

[0137] Implementation

[0138] Hereinafter, a list of embodiments is provided to illustrate the present disclosure while not intending to limit the present disclosure to the specific embodiments listed below.

[0139] While the invention has been described with respect to specific embodiments thereof, certain modifications and equivalents will be apparent to those skilled in the art and are intended to be included within the scope of the invention.

[0140] 1. A hair treatment composition comprising:

[0141] a) at least one C3-C13 saturated or unsaturated dicarboxylic acid which is unsubstituted or substituted with 1, 2, 3 or 4 hydroxyl groups in a concentration of 0.05% to 15.0% by weight;

[0142] b) at least one C10-C30 saturated or unsaturated monocarboxylic acid in a weight percent concentration of 0.01% to 10.0% by weight;

[0143] c) at least one C10-C50 saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon in a weight percent concentration of 0.01 wt % to 10.0 wt %;

[0144] d) at least one fatty acid ester of a C10-C30 saturated or unsaturated monocarboxylic acid and a C3-C6 monohydric alcohol, dihydric alcohol or trihydric alcohol in a concentration of 0.1% to 5.0% by weight;

[0145] e) at least one cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium or aqueous organic medium;

[0146] wherein components a) and b) are present in the form of free acids or cosmetically acceptable salts thereof, and

[0147] All weight percentages are relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0148] 2. A hair treatment composition according to embodiment 1, wherein component a) is at least one C3-C6 saturated or unsaturated dicarboxylic acid which is unsubstituted or substituted by 1, 2, 3 or 4 hydroxyl groups.

[0149] 3. A hair treatment composition according to embodiment 2, wherein the at least one C3-C6 saturated or unsaturated dicarboxylic acid which is unsubstituted or substituted by 1, 2, 3 or 4 hydroxyl groups is selected from the group consisting of malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, malic acid, 2-methylmalic acid, hydroxyglutaric acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid, glutaconic acid, tartaric acid, 2-methyltartaric acid, 2-hydroxy-3-methylglutaric acid, hydroxyadipic acid and hydroxyglutaric acid.

[0150] 4. A hair treatment composition according to embodiment 2, wherein component a) is at least one C3-C6 saturated dicarboxylic acid substituted by 1, 2, 3 or 4 hydroxyl groups.

[0151] 5. A hair treatment composition according to embodiment 4, wherein the at least one C3-C6 saturated dicarboxylic acid substituted by 1, 2, 3 or 4 hydroxyl groups is selected from the group consisting of malic acid, 2-methylmalic acid, hydroxyglutaric acid, tartaric acid, 2-methyltartaric acid, 2-hydroxy-3-methylglutaric acid, hydroxyadipic acid and hydroxyglutaric acid.

[0152] 6. A hair treatment composition according to any one of the preceding embodiments, wherein component b) is at least one C16-C22 saturated or unsaturated monocarboxylic acid.

[0153] 7. A hair treatment composition according to embodiment 6, wherein component b) is selected from the group consisting of oleic acid and palmitoleic acid.

[0154] 8. A hair treatment composition according to any one of the preceding embodiments, wherein component c) is selected from the group consisting of alkanes and saturated acyclic terpenes.

[0155] 9. A hair treatment composition according to embodiment 8, wherein the saturated acyclic terpene is selected from the group consisting of squalane, isosqualane and neosqualane.

[0156] 10. A hair treatment composition according to any one of the preceding embodiments, wherein component d) is at least one fatty acid ester of a C16-C22 saturated or unsaturated monocarboxylic acid and a C3-C6 trihydric alcohol.

[0157] 11. A hair treatment composition according to any preceding Embodiment wherein component a) is malic acid and component b) is oleic acid.

[0158] 12. A hair treatment composition according to any one of the preceding embodiments, wherein

[0159] Component a) is selected from the group consisting of: malic acid and glutaric acid,

[0160] Component b) is selected from the group consisting of oleic acid and palmitoleic acid,

[0161] Component c) is selected from the group consisting of squalane and paraffins, and

[0162] Component d) is selected from the group consisting of glyceryl monooleate and glyceryl monopalmitoleate.

[0163] 13. A hair treatment composition according to embodiment 12, wherein

[0164] Component a) is malic acid,

[0165] Component b) is oleic acid,

[0166] Component c) is squalane,

[0167] Component d) is glyceryl monooleate.

[0168] 14. A hair treatment composition according to any one of the preceding embodiments, wherein the hair treatment composition comprises at least one additive selected from the group consisting of cationic surfactants, silicone conditioning agents, anionic surfactants, bleaching agents, colorants and permanent waving agents.

[0169] 15. A hair treatment composition according to any preceding embodiment wherein component a) is present in a weight percent concentration in the range of 0.1 wt.-% to 10.0 wt.-%.

[0170] 16. A hair treatment composition according to any preceding embodiment wherein component b) is present in a weight percent concentration in the range of 0.05 wt.-% to 1.0 wt.-%.

[0171] 17. A hair treatment composition according to any preceding embodiment wherein component c) is present in a weight percent concentration in the range of 0.02 wt.-% to 4.0 wt.-%.

[0172] 18. A hair treatment composition according to any preceding embodiment wherein component d) is present in a weight percent concentration in the range of 0.15 wt.-% to 3.0 wt.-%.

[0173] 19. A hair treatment composition according to any preceding embodiment, wherein the ratio of the weight percent concentration of component a) to the weight percent concentration of component b) is in the range of 10.0:1.0 to 1.0:1.0, preferably in the range of 5.0:1.0 to 2.0:1.0.

[0174] 20. A hair treatment composition according to any one of the preceding embodiments wherein component e) is selected from the group consisting of water and C2-C6 monohydric alcohols.

[0175] 21. A hair treatment composition according to any preceding embodiment, wherein the pH of the hair treatment composition is in the range of 4.0 to 6.0.

[0176] 22. A hair treatment composition according to any one of the preceding embodiments, wherein the hair treatment composition is selected from the group consisting of hair conditioners, hair creams, shampoos, dry shampoos, rinse-off conditioners, hair lotions, hair oils, hair pastes, hair foams, hair sprays, hair tonics and hair washes.

[0177] 23. A method for treating hair, the method comprising at least the following steps:

[0178] A) Applying a hair treatment composition according to any one of embodiments 1 to 22 to the hair.

[0179] 24. The method according to embodiment 23, further comprising the following steps:

[0180] B) diluting a hair treatment composition according to any one of embodiments 1 to 22 with water before or simultaneously with application to the hair.

[0181] 25. Use of a hair treatment composition according to any one of embodiments 1 to 22 for repairing damaged hair.

[0182] statement

[0183] X1. A hair treatment composition comprising:

[0184] a) at least one C3-C13 saturated or unsaturated dicarboxylic acid which is unsubstituted or substituted with one hydroxyl group in a concentration of 0.05% to 15.0% by weight;

[0185] b) at least one C10-C30 saturated or unsaturated monocarboxylic acid in a weight percent concentration of 0.01% to 10.0% by weight;

[0186] c) at least one C10-C40 saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon in a concentration of 0.01 wt % to 1.0 wt %;

[0187] d) at least one fatty acid ester of a C10-C30 saturated or unsaturated monocarboxylic acid and a C3-C6 monohydric alcohol, dihydric alcohol or trihydric alcohol in a concentration of 0.1% to 10.0% by weight;

[0188] e) at least one cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium or aqueous organic medium;

[0189] wherein components a) and b) are present in the form of free acids or cosmetically acceptable salts thereof, and

[0190] All weight percentages are relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0191] X2. A hair treatment composition according to statement X1, wherein component a) is at least one C3-C6 saturated or unsaturated dicarboxylic acid, said saturated dicarboxylic acid being optionally substituted by 1, 2, 3 or 4 hydroxyl groups.

[0192] X3. A hair treatment composition according to statement X1 or X2, wherein component a) is selected from the group consisting of malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, malic acid, hydroxysuccinic acid, glutaric acid, hydroxyglutaric acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid, glutaconic acid, their cosmetically acceptable salts and any combination thereof.

[0193] X4. A hair treatment composition according to any of the preceding statements, wherein component b) is at least one C16-C22 saturated or unsaturated monocarboxylic acid.

[0194] X5. A hair treatment composition according to any of the preceding statements, wherein component c) is at least one fatty acid ester of a C16-C22 saturated or unsaturated monocarboxylic acid and a C3-C6 trihydric alcohol.

[0195] X6. A hair treatment composition according to any of the preceding statements, wherein component c) is at least one C26-C40 saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon.

[0196] X7. A hair treatment composition according to any of the preceding statements, wherein component a) is malic acid and component b) is oleic acid.

[0197] X8. A hair treatment composition according to any one of statements X1 to X6, wherein

[0198] Component a) is selected from the group consisting of: malic acid and glutaric acid,

[0199] Component b) is selected from the group consisting of oleic acid and palmitoleic acid,

[0200] Component c) is selected from the group consisting of: squalane and squalene,

[0201] Component d) is selected from the group consisting of glyceryl monooleate and glyceryl monopalmitoleate.

[0202] X9. A hair treatment composition according to statement X8, wherein

[0203] Component a) is malic acid,

[0204] Component b) is oleic acid,

[0205] Component c) is squalane,

[0206] Component d) is glyceryl monooleate.

[0207] X10. A hair treatment composition according to any of the preceding statements, further comprising at least one additive selected from the group consisting of cationic surfactants, silicone conditioning agents, anionic surfactants, bleaching agents, coloring agents and permanent waving agents.

[0208] X11. A hair treatment composition according to any of the preceding statements, wherein component a) is present in a weight percent concentration in the range of 0.1 wt% to 10.0 wt%, and component b) is present in a weight percent concentration in the range of 0.015 wt% to 1.0 wt%.

[0209] X12. A hair treatment composition according to any of the preceding statements, wherein components c) and d) are present in a weight percent concentration in the range of 0.01 wt.-% to 10.0 wt.-%.

[0210] X13. A hair treatment composition according to any of the preceding statements, wherein the ratio of the weight percent concentration of component a) to the weight percent concentration of component b) is in the range of 10.0:1.0 to 1.0:1.0, preferably in the range of 5.0:1.0 to 2.0:1.0.

[0211] X14. A hair treatment composition according to any of the preceding statements, wherein component e) is selected from the group consisting of water and C2-C6 monohydric alcohols.

[0212] X15. A hair treatment composition according to any of the preceding statements, wherein the pH of the hair treatment composition is in the range of 4.0 to 6.0.

[0213] X16. A hair treatment composition according to any of the preceding statements, wherein the hair treatment composition is selected from the group consisting of hair conditioners, hair creams, shampoos, dry shampoos, rinse-off conditioners, hair lotions, hair oils, hair pastes, hair foams, hair sprays, hair tonics and hair washes.

[0214] X17. A method for treating hair, the method comprising at least the following steps:

[0215] A) Applying to the hair a hair treatment composition according to any of statements X1 to X16.

[0216] X18. The method according to statement 15, further comprising the steps of:

[0217] B) diluting a hair treatment composition according to any of statements X1 to X16 with water before or while applying to the hair.

[0218] X19. Use of a hair treatment composition according to any one of statements X1 to X16 for repairing damaged hair.

[0219] Example

[0220] The following examples illustrate the present invention. The compositions illustrated can be prepared by conventional formulation and mixing techniques. It should be understood that other modifications may be made to the present invention within the skill of those skilled in the art of hair care formulations without departing from the spirit and scope of the present invention. Unless otherwise indicated, all parts, percentages and ratios herein are by weight. Some components may be obtained from suppliers as dilute solutions.

[0221] It has surprisingly been found that hair conditioning compositions containing a combination of at least dicarboxylic acids, fatty monocarboxylic acids, fatty hydrocarbons and fatty acid esters improve the combability of damaged hair and improve the quality of the hair cuticle.

[0222] Combing force measurement

[0223] Various external influences, such as certain cosmetic treatments (bleaching, dyeing, permanent waves), exposure to weather, frequent combing and brushing, affect the ease of combing due to degradation of the hair cuticle. The ease of combing of the hair is therefore the main parameter used to describe the quality / degree of damage of the hair on the one hand and / or the conditioning effectiveness of a hair repair treatment, respectively, on the other hand.

[0224] The principle of most methods for determining combability is to measure the force of pulling a comb through a hair strand under certain conditions (reference: CR Robbins, Chemical and Physical Behavior of Human Hair, 5th edition, p. 646 ff., Springer-Verlag, Berlin Heidelberg 2012. ISBN 978-3-642-25610-3).

[0225] For this test, an automated device is used in which the tresses to be tested are taken out of a storage chamber and fixed on a dynamometer. The tresses are combed automatically at a constant speed. For each combing stroke, the combing force is recorded as a function of the distance (tress length) traveled by the combing. For comparison purposes, 20 combing strokes per tress of at least 3 tresses per product sample are averaged.

[0226] The wet combing force is the average force along the hair strand. The lower the combing force, the better the ease of combing.

[0227] Hair tress preparation for combing force measurement

[0228] A hair tress (Caucasian human hair) (weight 2 g, length 17 cm, medium blonde) was bleached twice to simulate hair damage and then soaked in tap water for 10 minutes (35°C ± 2°C). Afterwards, the tress was adjusted to 50% relative humidity by weight and then combed twice (coarse and fine side of the comb). 0.25 ml / g hair of the hair care composition to be tested was applied to the tress and massaged for 1 minute. The tress was rinsed with tap water (6 L / min; 35°C ± 2°C) for 1 minute. Afterwards, the tress was adjusted to 50% relative humidity by weight. The tress was combed twice (coarse and fine side of the comb) and placed in a wet box in the storage chamber of the combing device for actual wet combing force measurement.

[0229] Check the results

[0230] The following table shows the measured wet combing force (in Newtons (N)) of hair samples subjected to damage and then treated with a hair treatment composition according to the invention and a treatment composition lacking one or more of the four components of the hair treatment composition of the invention. The treated hair samples subjected to the above mechanical combing measurement are damaged hair (twice bleached) treated with a liquid composition containing the ingredients of Example 3.

[0231]

[0232] The results clearly show that hair treated with the composition containing lipid plus fatty acid and dicarboxylic acid (Example 3) exhibits excellent combing properties (low combing force).

[0233] Example 1 (Shampoo)

[0234]

[0235] Example 2 (Rinse-off Conditioner / Hair Mask)

[0236]

[0237] Example 3 (No-clean treatment agent)

[0238]

[0239] Example 4 (Composition for mixing with bleach, colorant or permanent wave agent)

[0240]

[0241] Example 5 (No-clean treatment agent)

[0242]

[0243] *Not within the scope of this invention

[0244] Test Method – Half Head Test

[0245] The ability of the aforementioned leave-in treatment examples to condition hair was examined by half-head comparisons on people / panelists. The panelists' hair was divided into two parts in the middle from forehead to neck. One part was treated with reference sample 5-0 and the other part was treated with one of the four test samples 5-1 to 5-4, so a total of four half-head test comparisons were performed per panelist.

[0246] This examination is called half-head test and half-head comparison, respectively, because the test sample and reference sample are applied to half of the panelist's head, respectively, allowing a direct comparison under exactly the same testing conditions (same hair structure, degree of hair damage, hair color, etc.).

[0247] The following hair conditioning criteria were judged by experienced professional stylists: wet and dry combability, wet feel, frizz resistance, hair shine and dry feel.

[0248] Evaluation criteria for half-head examination:

[0249] Wet and dry combing:

[0250] The combability of the hair is assessed by placing an aluminum comb parallel to the center parting and passing it through the hair to the shoulders. The comb must be kept at a 90° angle throughout the process and remain in contact with the scalp during the entire combing process to avoid changing the comb angle. The resistance during combing / the amount of force required is the basis for evaluating the product as easier to comb / harder to comb. This test can be performed on both wet and dry hair. The evaluation is performed manually and is compared to the combability of the hair using a reference conditioner.

[0251] Wet feeling:

[0252] The wet feel of the hair is evaluated by holding the hair under slight pressure between the thumb and the first two fingers, moving from the root to the tip, or by spreading the fingers and sliding them through the hair from the root to the tip. If it slides through the fingers without any problem, we call it smooth feel; if the hair does not slide through the fingers smoothly, we call it rough feel.

[0253] Anti-curling:

[0254] Hair curl is assessed optically - on straight hair styles, by assessing whether short hair strands stand up both in the "sticking out from the body of the hair" and throughout the length of the hair, and on curly hair, by assessing how many wavy or curly hair strands do not align with the other hair strands to form a defined wave or curl. The fewer hairs that stand up on straight hair and the more defined / less frizzy the curl or wave is observed, the less curly the hair is.

[0255] Dry feeling:

[0256] When the hair was completely dry, the evaluator assessed the dry feel of the hair. This was assessed by running the hair from root to tip between the thumb, middle and index fingers while applying slight pressure; or alternatively, by running gently open fingers through the hair from root to tip. If the hair passed through the fingers easily, this was referred to as a smooth feel; if the hair was blocked and did not pass through the fingers easily, this was referred to as a rough feel.

[0257] Hair shine:

[0258] Hair shine is evaluated by observing the reflection of light on the hair under standard conditions (natural daylight or fluorescent lamps). Starting from a distance of 0.5 m and with slight head movements through the model, the light reflection or shine is evaluated as more / less.

[0259] The half-head examination was conducted by 5 testers, and the numbers indicate how many testers / panelists were judged for each criterion.

[0260] Comparison of test sample 5-1 (0.25% GMO) relative to reference sample (0% GMO):

[0261]

[0262] *Dry Combability Half Head Test conducted with four testers / panelists.

[0263] Comparison of test sample 5-2 (1% GMO) relative to the reference sample (0% GMO):

[0264]

[0265] *Dry Combability Half Head Test conducted with four testers / panelists.

[0266] Comparison of test sample 5-3 (5% GMO) relative to the reference sample (0% GMO):

[0267]

[0268] **Dry Combability Half Head Test conducted with three testers / panelists.

[0269] Comparison of test sample 5-4 (10% GMO) relative to the reference sample (0% GMO):

[0270]

[0271] ***Half head test was only performed with three testers / panelists as the product caused excessive weight / load and two of the five panelists needed to stop.

[0272] The results of the half head examination clearly show that glyceryl monooleate contributes to an excellent hair conditioning composition. GMO does improve conditioning performance up to a maximum concentration of 5 wt%, at which point GMO does result in excessive weighting / loading of the hair which is unacceptable to most consumers.

[0273] Other statements

[0274] The present invention has been described broadly and generally herein. Each of the narrower categories and subgeneric groupings that fall within the general disclosure also forms a part of the present invention. This includes a general description of the present invention, with premises or negative limitations removing any content from the genus, regardless of whether the deleted material is specifically mentioned herein. The inventions, examples, results, and embodiments described, stated, and claimed herein may have attributes, and embodiments include, but are not limited to, those set forth or described or mentioned in the application.

[0275] The terms and expressions employed are used as terms of description rather than limitation, and in the use of such terms and expressions, there is no intention to exclude any equivalents of the features shown and described or portions thereof, but it is to be recognized that various modifications are possible within the scope of the invention claimed and provided by the statement of embodiments. Therefore, it should be understood that although the present invention has been specifically disclosed by various non-limiting embodiments and / or preferred non-limiting embodiments and optional features, any and all modifications and variations of the concepts disclosed herein that may be adopted by those skilled in the art are deemed to be within the scope of the invention as defined by the appended claims and the statement of embodiments.

[0276] All patents, publications, scientific articles, websites, and other literature and administrative references mentioned herein are indicative of the skill level of those skilled in the art to which the invention pertains, and each such reference and material is incorporated herein by reference to the same extent as if it had been verbatim incorporated and fully set forth herein. The right to physically incorporate into this specification any and all materials and information from any such patent, publication, scientific article, website, electronically available information, textbook, or other reference material or document is reserved.

[0277] The written record of this patent application includes all claims, examples, and embodiment statements. All claims and embodiment statements, including all original claims, are incorporated by reference in their entirety into the written record of the specification, and the right to physically incorporate any and all such claims and embodiment statements into the written record or any other part of the application is reserved. Thus, for example, in no case can a patent be interpreted as allegedly not providing a written record for a claim, claiming that the exact wording of the claim is not set forth in the written record of the patent in the following words (haec verba).

[0278] Although the present invention has been described in conjunction with its detailed description, the foregoing description is intended to illustrate rather than limit the scope of the present invention, which is limited by the scope of the appended claims and the embodiment statements. Therefore, it will be understood from the foregoing that although specific non-limiting embodiments of the present invention have been described herein for illustrative purposes, various modifications may be made without departing from the scope of the present invention. Other aspects, advantages and modifications are within the scope of the appended claims, and the present invention is not limited except as stated in the appended claims and the embodiment statements.

[0279] The specific methods and compositions described herein are representatives of preferred non-limiting embodiments, and are exemplary and not intended to limit the scope of the invention. Other purposes, aspects and embodiments will come to mind after considering this specification by those skilled in the art, and are encompassed in the spirit of the invention as defined by the scope of the claims. It is obvious to those skilled in the art that various replacements and modifications may be made to the invention disclosed herein without departing from the scope and spirit of the invention. The invention appropriately illustratively described herein may be implemented in the absence of any one or more elements or one or more restrictions that are not specifically disclosed as necessary herein. Therefore, for example, in each case herein, in the non-limiting embodiments or examples of the present invention, the terms "include", "comprise", "contain", "provide", etc. should be understood broadly and without limitation.

[0280] The methods and processes illustratively described herein where appropriate may be implemented in different orders of steps and are not necessarily limited to the order of steps indicated herein or in the claims.

Claims

1. A hair treatment composition, comprising: a) at least one C3-C6 saturated dicarboxylic acid substituted with 1, 2, 3 or 4 hydroxyl groups in a concentration of 0.05% to 15.0% by weight; b) at least one C16-C22 saturated or unsaturated monocarboxylic acid in a concentration of 0.05% to 1.0% by weight; c) at least one C10-C50 saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon in a concentration of 0.02 wt % to 4.0 wt %; d) at least one fatty acid ester of a C10-C30 saturated or unsaturated monocarboxylic acid and a C3-C6 monohydric alcohol, dihydric alcohol or trihydric alcohol in a weight percent concentration of 0.1 wt % to 5.0 wt %; and e) at least one cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium or aqueous organic medium; wherein components a) and b) are present in the form of free acids or cosmetically acceptable salts thereof, and All weight percentages are relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. A hair treatment composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one C3-C6 saturated dicarboxylic acid substituted by 1, 2, 3 or 4 hydroxyl groups is selected from the group consisting of malic acid, 2-methylmalic acid, tartaric acid, 2-methyltartaric acid, 2-hydroxy-3-methylglutaric acid, hydroxyadipic acid and hydroxyglutaric acid.

3. A hair treatment composition according to claim 1, wherein component c) is selected from the group consisting of alkanes and saturated acyclic terpenes.

4. A hair treatment composition according to claim 3, wherein the saturated acyclic terpene is selected from the group consisting of squalane, isosqualane and neosqualane.

5. A hair treatment composition according to claim 1, wherein component d) is at least one fatty acid ester of a C16-C22 saturated or unsaturated monocarboxylic acid and a C3-C6 trihydric alcohol.

6. A hair treatment composition according to claim 1 wherein component a) is present in a weight percent concentration in the range of 0.1 wt% to 10.0 wt%.

7. A hair treatment composition according to claim 1 wherein component d) is present in a weight percent concentration in the range of 0.15 wt% to 3.0 wt%.

8. A hair treatment composition according to claim 1, wherein the ratio of the weight percent concentration of component a) to the weight percent concentration of component b) is in the range of 10.0:1.0 to 1.0:1.

0.

9. A hair treatment composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the hair treatment composition is selected from the group consisting of hair conditioners, hair creams, shampoos, dry shampoos, rinse-off conditioners, hair lotions, hair oils, hair pastes, hair foams, hair sprays, hair tonics and hair washes.

10. A method for treating hair, the method comprising at least the following steps: A) Applying a hair treatment composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 to the hair.

11. Use of a hair treatment composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 for repairing damaged hair.