Oil-in-water emulsions and their use in cosmetics

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, in particular for caring for keratin materials, comprising:-at least one fat phase,-at least one emulsifier comprising at least one phospholipid,-at least one hydrophilic gelling agent,-at least one glyceride,-at least one fatty phase,-at least one fatty phase,-at least one emulsifying agent comprising at least one phospholipid,-at least one fatty phase,-at least one fatty phase and-at least one fatty phase. And-at least linoleic acid.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention relates to the field of keratin material care, particularly the field of anti-aging care and / or moisturizing of keratin materials (especially skin).

[0002] The present invention aims to provide a composition in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion, particularly a cosmetic composition, which comprises at least one fatty phase, at least one emulsifier (which contains at least one phospholipid), at least one hydrophilic gelling agent, at least one glyceride, and at least linoleic acid in a physiologically acceptable medium.

[0003] This invention particularly relates to the use of the compositions of the invention for caring for and protecting keratin materials (such as the skin of the body or face), especially for anti-aging care and / or moisturizing of said keratin materials.

[0004] Finally, the present invention relates to a cosmetic method for caring for keratin materials, particularly skin, comprising topically applying a composition according to the invention to these keratin materials. Background Technology

[0005] Skin is a barrier that protects us and facilitates our exchange with the environment. It is both strong and fragile; for various reasons, it can lose its flexibility and its ability to retain moisture, leading to dry skin.

[0006] The stratum corneum, or epidermal stratum corneum, as the outermost layer of the epidermis, is known to be particularly involved in skin moisturization. Located at the interface with the external environment, its function is especially to delay excessive loss of moisture originating from deeper layers of the epidermis. The stratum corneum also protects against mechanical aggression. It also forms the first line of defense against UV radiation.

[0007] For obvious reasons, it is important to ensure adequate levels of skin hydration in order to maintain its suppleness, softness, elasticity and / or appearance, and to prevent dryness.

[0008] In addition, it may be necessary to maintain this level of hydration over time, especially when ambient temperature and / or humidity conditions are variable (e.g., cold / hot to hot / cold changes throughout the day).

[0009] Typically, this reduction in hydration levels can be prevented or addressed by using known moisturizing surfactants (such as glycerin) or products in galen form that slow transepidermal water loss (TEWL), such as inverse emulsions (W / O) containing mineral oil and derivatives, acting on the stratum corneum via the deposition of a continuous lipid phase with sufficient occlusivity to maintain the stratum corneum's hydration level. However, some of these surfactants can make the formulation sticky, especially when used in high concentrations. For galen products of the inverse emulsion (W / O) type, they may have an occlusive effect that results in a greasy and sticky finish.

[0010] Furthermore, formulating environmentally friendly cosmetic products—that is, products designed and developed with environmental concerns in mind—is becoming a major focus in contributing to addressing global challenges.

[0011] Therefore, it is necessary to develop more sustainable compositions and / or preparation methods and / or ingredients to address these environmental challenges.

[0012] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, particularly by promoting the use of renewable and / or naturally derived and / or plant-derived starting materials, while reducing the use of petrochemical-derived compounds.

[0013] In this context, there is a continuous search for new emulsification systems that can meet the requirements of this environment while exhibiting appropriate properties in terms of sensory experience and stability.

[0014] Emulsion systems containing at least one phospholipid, particularly at least hydrogenated lecithin, meet environmentally friendly standards. In particular, this naturally derived emulsifier has been reported to enable the formation of layered O / W emulsions that provide perfect skin affinity, offering a smooth, soft, and silky feel.

[0015] However, formulating compositions for anti-aging care and / or moisturizing of the skin using this emulsification system may prove difficult in terms of stability. This is because the release of aqueous exudates has been observed in compositions formulated with this emulsifier in the form of oil-in-water emulsions. It has also been noted that compositions formed with this emulsifier may have a tendency to change color over time and may, for example, exhibit a strong pink discoloration, depending on the active agents and compounds present in these compositions.

[0016] Therefore, there is a need for a cosmetic composition that is stable (especially in terms of structure and color), incorporates improved properties such as ease of application, softness, and good spreadability, does not melt on the face at high temperatures, has a soft and light feel, provides an ideal balance between moisturizing and oil control, and evens out skin tone. Summary of the Invention

[0017] Therefore, in view of the foregoing, there is still a need for novel compositions, especially cosmetic compositions, particularly compositions for the care and / or treatment of keratin materials, which exhibit good microscopic robustness and color that does not change over time, while also exhibiting the characteristics sought by consumers, especially sensory characteristics, namely, comfort during and after application, a soap-free feel, a smooth and non-sticky deposit, a creamy texture, and a soft and lightweight feel on the skin.

[0018] In the context of developing compositions for keratin material care, and especially for anti-aging care and / or moisturizing of the skin, there is a need for eco-designed cosmetic compositions that have a high proportion of naturalness, biodegradability and renewability, without compromising on sensory qualities.

[0019] In particular, it is still necessary to formulate compositions that possess sensory properties suitable for the needs of cosmetic compositions (especially anti-aging and / or moisturizing compositions) and exhibit good stability (especially regarding the color of the composition).

[0020] Finally, in order to particularly meet the current needs of consumers, especially from an environmental perspective, it is advantageous in most cases to use renewable and / or starting materials with a good naturalness index and / or natural origin for such compositions.

[0021] This invention is precisely to meet these needs. Summary of the Invention

[0022] Therefore, according to a first aspect of the invention, the present invention relates to a composition, particularly a cosmetic composition, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, specifically for treating keratin materials, the composition comprising:

[0023] - At least one fatty phase,

[0024] - At least one emulsifier comprising at least one phospholipid.

[0025] - At least one hydrophilic gelling agent,

[0026] - At least one glyceride, and

[0027] - At least linoleic acid.

[0028] In fact, the inventors have unexpectedly discovered that a combination of an emulsion system comprising at least one phospholipid (particularly at least hydrogenated lecithin), at least one hydrophilic gelling agent (particularly selected from polymers and copolymers of optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, such as poly(2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid)), at least one glyceride, and at least linoleic acid, formulated as an oil-in-water emulsion, advantageously allows for the attainment of compositions that balance both excellent stability (particularly with respect to the color of the composition over time) and excellent sensory properties.

[0029] Furthermore, the resulting compositions exhibit good rheological properties (particularly in terms of viscosity and / or texture) and particularly advantageous cosmetic properties (particularly in terms of reduced soaping effect during and after application and very good moisturizing effect).

[0030] In particular, the resulting compositions exhibit a pleasing appearance and soft texture, and are easy to apply and spread. After application, these compositions leave a fresh, moisturizing, nourishing, soft, and comfortable feeling on the skin. Furthermore, no greasy, oily, or sticky effect is achieved after applying these compositions, and there is no irritation or discomfort.

[0031] Finally, the resulting composition exhibits maintenance of the effects obtained from application, particularly the continued feeling of comfort and freshness throughout the day. The skin also remains hydrated and soft, breathing freely without feeling suffocated, oily, sticky, or shiny, and prevents tightness, dryness, flaking, and roughness.

[0032] Advantageously, in the field of moisturizing compositions, the compositions according to the invention are more natural while meeting the user's expected requirements. Finally, the compositions according to the invention exhibit excellent stability over time, and their color does not change over time. Therefore, the compositions according to the invention have the benefit of reassuring consumers and maintaining their long-term confidence in the compositions because they exhibit excellent structural and color stability (e.g., by not changing color over time, such as significant pink discoloration).

[0033] According to a specific embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 2.0% by weight of silicone oil relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 1.0% by weight, more preferably less than 0.5% by weight, and more preferably free of silicone oil.

[0034] The compositions according to the invention are particularly useful for caring for keratin materials, and are preferably used for caring for keratin materials.

[0035] Therefore, according to another aspect of the invention, the invention also relates to a cosmetic method for caring for keratin materials (particularly skin), the method comprising at least one step of applying a composition according to the invention to said keratin material.

[0036] Therefore, this application also relates to the cosmetic use of the compositions according to the invention in the cosmetic field, and particularly to their use for the care and / or protection of the skin of the body or face.

[0037] In particular, this application relates to the cosmetic use of the compositions according to the invention in the cosmetic field, and especially to the prevention and / or treatment of symptoms related to dryness problems on keratin materials, and / or to the repair and strengthening of the skin barrier.

[0038] Therefore, this application relates to the use of compositions according to the invention for combating signs of skin aging, particularly for cosmetic purposes of moisturizing the skin.

[0039] It should be understood that the processes and methods defined according to the present invention are non-therapeutic.

[0040] Other properties, variations, and advantages of the compositions according to the invention will become more apparent upon reading the following description and examples. Detailed Implementation

[0041] Composition

[0042] As described above, the compositions according to the present invention can be cosmetic and / or dermatological, and are preferably cosmetic.

[0043] The compositions according to the invention are generally suitable for topical application to the skin and therefore generally contain a physiologically acceptable medium, that is, a skin-compatible medium.

[0044] It is preferably a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is, a medium that exhibits a pleasant color, smell and feel and does not produce unacceptable discomfort (i.e., stinging, tightness or redness) that would discourage the user from applying the composition.

[0045] The term "cosmetics" refers to compositions compatible with skin, mucous membranes, and skin appendages. The compositions according to the invention are non-therapeutic.

[0046] The term "keratin material" specifically refers to skin, mucous membranes, fibers, eyelashes, and skin appendages.

[0047] The term “skin” means all the skin of the body, and preferably the skin of the face, scalp, collar, neck, arms and forearms, eyelids, around the mouth or behind the ears, elbow crease, back of the knee, hands, wrists and ankles, or even more preferably the skin of the face (especially the forehead, nose, cheeks and chin), collar and neck.

[0048] The cosmetic compositions according to the invention are provided in a direct form or as an oil-in-water emulsion (i.e., an emulsion comprising a continuous aqueous phase and, particularly, a fatty phase dispersed in the aqueous phase at a content of at least 5% by weight, preferably at least 8% by weight).

[0049] The compositions according to the present invention can be prepared using techniques well known to those skilled in the art.

[0050] Phospholipids

[0051] The compositions according to the present invention contain at least one phospholipid.

[0052] Phospholipids are preferably selected from:

[0053] - Natural phospholipids, especially egg lecithin, soybean lecithin, or sphingomyelin.

[0054] - Chemically or enzymatically modified phospholipids, especially hydrogenated lecithin, and

[0055] - Synthetic phospholipids, especially dipalmitoylphosphatidylcholine.

[0056] Phospholipids are preferably hydrogenated lecithin.

[0057] Preferably, the phospholipid is present in a mixture with fatty alcohols (such as alcohols having 12 to 16 carbon atoms) and / or with fatty acids (such as palmitic acid).

[0058] Preferably, the phospholipid is marketed under the INCI name C12-16 alcohol (and) palmitic acid (and) hydrogenated lecithin and is sold, in particular, from Lucas Meyer Cosmetics under the index number Biophilic™ H MB.

[0059] Phospholipids are present in the composition according to the invention in an amount preferably between 0.01% and 3% by weight of the active material relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably between 0.05% and 2% by weight of the active material, and even more preferably between 0.1% and 1% by weight of the active material.

[0060] hydrophilic gelling agent

[0061] As mentioned above, the compositions according to the present invention comprise at least one hydrophilic gelling agent.

[0062] The hydrophilic gelling agent according to the present invention can be synthetic or natural.

[0063] Hydrophilic gelling agents (or thickeners) can be specifically selected from:

[0064] 1) Carboxyvinyl polymers

[0065] Carboxyvinyl polymers may or may not be modified.

[0066] These can be polyacrylates. These are especially cross-linked and neutralized polymers in non-particulate form.

[0067] Advantageously, sodium salts are preferred.

[0068] Polymers containing the INCI name such as sodium polyacrylate can be specifically mentioned, for example:

[0069] - Cosmedia SP® or cross-linked sodium polyacrylate, containing 90% solids and 10% water, and Cosmedia SPL® or sodium polyacrylate, as a reverse emulsion containing approximately 60% dry active material, oil (hydrogenated polydecene), and surfactant (PPG-5, lauryl ether-5), both marketed by BASF.

[0070] - Partially neutralized cross-linked sodium polyacrylate, which is in the form of a reverse emulsion containing at least one polar oil, such as the one sold by BASF under the name Luvigel® EM or the one sold by Ciba (CIBA) under the name Salcare AST (INCI name: Sodium acrylate copolymer (and) PPG-1 tridecyl alcohol polyether-6 (and) wild soybean (soybean) oil).

[0071] Polymers with the INCI name sodium polymethacrylate may also be specifically mentioned, such as Darvan® 7-N from Vanderbilt.

[0072] Among the carboxyvinyl polymers applicable to the present invention, those sold under the following names may also be mentioned:

[0073] - Carbopol® (INCI name: Carbopol) from Goodrich.

[0074] - Pemulen™ (INCI name: acrylate / acrylic C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer) from Goodrich.

[0075] - Akupec MG N40R (INCI name: carbomer sodium) from Sumitomo Seika;

[0076] - Aculyn™ 88 polymer (INCI name: acrylate / stearyl alcohol polyether-20 methacrylate crosspolymer) from Dow Chemical.

[0077] - Aculyn™ 28 polymer from Dow Chemical Company (INCI name: acrylate / betaine-25 methacrylate copolymer);

[0078] - Aristoflex® Velvet (INCI: polyacrylate crosspolymer-11) from Clariant.

[0079] The carboxyvinyl polymer may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount between 0.1% and 3% by weight of solids relative to the total weight of the composition, more particularly between 0.1% and 2% by weight.

[0080] 2) Polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) In particular, homopolymers or copolymers, whether crosslinked or non-crosslinked, contain at least 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) monomers, especially in the form of being partially or completely neutralized by an inorganic base other than ammonia (such as sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide).

[0081] These AMPS polymers can be completely or almost completely neutralized, that is, neutralized to at least 90%.

[0082] These AMPS polymers can be cross-linked or non-cross-linked.

[0083] The AMPS polymers suitable for use in this invention are hydrophilic, that is, water-soluble or water-dispersible. They can be:

[0084] - "Homopolymer", which contains only AMPS monomers and (if they are crosslinked) one or more crosslinking agents as defined below;

[0085] - or copolymers obtained from AMPS and one or more hydrophilic or hydrophobic monomers (e.g., olefinically unsaturated monomers) and (if they are crosslinked) one or more crosslinking agents as defined below. When the copolymer contains hydrophobic olefinically unsaturated monomers, such monomers are preferably present in small amounts.

[0086] The term “water-soluble or water-dispersible” should be understood to mean a polymer that, when introduced into an aqueous phase at a concentration of, for example, 1% by weight at 25°C, yields a macroscopically homogeneous and transparent solution, particularly at a wavelength of 500 nm, having a maximum transmittance of at least 60%, preferably at least 70%, through a sample with a thickness of 1 cm.

[0087] Polymers and copolymers of optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) are selected, for example, from:

[0088] a) Poly(2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid) polymers, especially crosslinked and at least 90% neutralized homopolymers, i.e., polyAMPS.

[0089] Their characteristic is that they typically contain the following randomly distributed units:

[0090] i) Units of the following general formula (1) comprising 90% to 99.9% by weight:

[0091]

[0092] Where X + Represents a cation or mixture of cations, with a maximum of 10 mol% of cation X. + It can be the proton H + ;as well as

[0093] ii) 0.01% to 10% by weight of crosslinking units derived from at least one monomer having at least two olefinic double bonds, the proportion by weight being defined relative to the total weight of the polymer.

[0094] This polymer preferably comprises 98% to 99.5% by weight of units of formula (1) and 0.2% to 2% by weight of crosslinking units.

[0095] Cation X + Represents a cation or mixture of cations, particularly selected from protons, alkali metal cations, cations equivalent to alkaline earth metals, or ammonium ions. Preferred cation X + It is NH4 + Cations. More specifically, 90 mol% to 100 mol% of the cation is NH4+. + Cations, and 0 mol% to 10 mol% are protons (H+). + ).

[0096] The crosslinking monomer having at least two olefinic double bonds is selected from, for example, dipropylene glycol diallyl ether, polyethylene glycol diallyl ether, triethylene glycol divinyl ether, hydroquinone diallyl ether, tetraallyloxyacetyl or other polyfunctional alcohol allyl or vinyl ether, tetraethylene glycol diacrylate, triallylamine, trimethylolpropane diallyl ether, methylenebisacrylamide or divinylbenzene.

[0097] The crosslinking monomers having at least two olefinic double bonds are more specifically selected from those corresponding to the following general formula (2):

[0098]

[0099] As polymers of this type, crosslinked or non-crosslinked polymers of sodium 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate can be specifically mentioned, such as those used in the commercial product Simulgel™ 800 from Seppic (INCI name: sodium polyacrylamide dimethyl taurate (and) polysorbate 80 (and) sorbitan oleate), and crosslinked polymers of ammonium 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate (INCI name: ammonium polyacrylamide dimethyl taurate), such as those sold by Clariant under the name Hostacerin® AMPS. In particular, as AMPS homopolymers suitable for use in this invention, crosslinked and neutralized homopolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (INCI name: ammonium polyacrylamide dimethyl taurate) sold by Clariant under the trade name Hostacerin® AMPS can be mentioned.

[0100] b) AMPS copolymers, which in particular contain water-soluble olefinically unsaturated monomers, hydrophobic monomers or mixtures thereof.

[0101] Water-soluble comonomers can be ionic or nonionic.

[0102] Among ionic water-soluble comonomers, the following compounds and their salts may be mentioned:

[0103] - (meth)acrylic acid,

[0104] - Styrene sulfonic acid,

[0105] - Vinyl sulfonic acid and (methyl)allyl sulfonic acid,

[0106] - Vinylphosphonic acid,

[0107] - Maleic acid,

[0108] - Itaconic acid,

[0109] - Crotonic acid,

[0110] - The water-soluble vinyl monomer of formula (3):

[0111]

[0112] in:

[0113] - R1 is selected from H, -CH3, -C2H5, or -C3H7.

[0114] - X1 is selected from alkyl oxides of the -OR2 type, wherein R2 is a saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched hydrocarbon group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, which is substituted with at least one sulfonic acid group (-SO3-) and / or sulfate ester (-SO4-) and / or phosphate ester (-PO4H2-).

[0115] Among nonionic water-soluble comonomers, examples such as:

[0116] - (meth)acrylamide,

[0117] - N-vinylacetamide and N-methyl-N-vinylacetamide,

[0118] - N-vinylformamide and N-methyl-N-vinylformamide,

[0119] - Maleic anhydride

[0120] - Ethyleneamine,

[0121] - N-vinyl lactams containing cyclic alkyl groups and having 4 to 9 carbon atoms, such as N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-vinylbutyrolactam, and N-vinylcaprolactam.

[0122] - Vinyl alcohols with the formula CH2=CHOH

[0123] - The water-soluble vinyl monomer of formula (4):

[0124]

[0125] in:

[0126] - R3 is selected from H, -CH3, -C2H5, or -C3H7.

[0127] - X2 is selected from alkyl oxides of the -OR4 type, where R4 is a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched hydrocarbon group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with a halogen (iodine, bromine, chlorine, fluorine) atom or a hydroxyl (-OH) or ether group. For example, glycidyl (meth)acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate, and ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, or polyalkylene glycol (meth)acrylate may be mentioned.

[0128] Among hydrophobic comonomers without aliphatic chains, examples such as:

[0129] - Styrene and its derivatives, such as 4-butylstyrene, α-methylstyrene and vinyltoluene;

[0130] - Vinyl acetate of the formula CH2=CH-OCOCH3;

[0131] - A vinyl ether of the formula CH2=CHOR, wherein R is a saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched hydrocarbon group having 1 to 6 carbons;

[0132] - Acrylonitrile;

[0133] - Caprolactone;

[0134] - Vinyl chloride and vinylidene chloride;

[0135] - Silicone derivatives, which produce silicone polymers after polymerization, such as methacryloyloxypropyltris(trimethylsiloxy)silane and silicone methacrylamide;

[0136] - Hydrophobic vinyl monomers of formula (5):

[0137]

[0138] in:

[0139] -R4 is selected from H, -CH3, -C2H5, or -C3H7.

[0140] -X3 is selected from alkyl oxides of the -OR5 type, where R5 is a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched hydrocarbon group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0141] For example, methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, n-butyl methacrylate, tert-butyl methacrylate, cyclohexyl acrylate, isobornyl acrylate, and 2-ethylhexyl acrylate can be mentioned.

[0142] AMPS copolymers can be, in particular:

[0143] i) Copolymers of AMPS and acrylamide, and more particularly crosslinked anionic copolymers of AMPS and acrylamide.

[0144] These copolymers can be crosslinked in particular by polyene unsaturated compounds such as those selected from the group consisting of tetraallyloxyethane, allyl pentaerythritol, methylenebisacrylamide, allyl sucrose, and pentaerythritol. Preferably, methylenebisacrylamide is used that is partially or completely neutralized by a neutralizing agent such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonia, or an amine (such as triethanolamine).

[0145] Preferably, the polyene unsaturated compound is present in the copolymer at a concentration between 0.06 and 1 mmol per mole of monomer mixture.

[0146] The preferred copolymer is obtained by free radical copolymerization of 15-85 mol% acrylamide and 15-85 mol% 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, particularly 30-70 mol% acrylamide and 30-70 mol% 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, and even more preferably 55-70 mol% acrylamide and 30-45 mol% 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid.

[0147] In addition, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid can usually be in the form of a salt, such as by sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, or by a low molecular weight amine (such as triethanolamine), or a mixture thereof, at least partially neutralized.

[0148] The hydrophilic gelling agents that can be used can also be selected from crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid.

[0149] In the context of practicing this invention, particularly preferred crosslinked copolymers are available from Sepigel 305™ (CTFA name: polyacrylamide / C13-14 isoparaffin / lauryl ether 7) sold by Sepigel Corporation or from Tinci Materials under the names Aquagel 65 or Aquagel 35 (INCI name: polyacrylamide (and) C9-11 alkanol ether-6); reference may also be made to Simulgel™ 600 (CTFA name: acrylamide / sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer / isohexadecane / polysorbate 80) sold by Sepigel Corporation.

[0150] ii) Copolymers derived from 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS), which may or may not be crosslinked, and particularly contain at least one hydrophobic group, comprising:

[0151] - 80 to 99 mol% of the following 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) units of formula (6):

[0152]

[0153] Where X is a proton, an alkali metal cation, an alkaline earth metal cation, or an ammonium ion; it can be understood that when X represents an alkaline earth metal cation, it shares two positive charges with the two SO3 groups; and

[0154] - Units of formula (7) of the following type, ranging from 1 mol% to 20 mol%, and preferably from 1 mol% to 15 mol%:

[0155]

[0156] Wherein n and p independently indicate the number of moles and range from 0 to 30, and preferably from 1 to 20, provided that n + p is less than or equal to 30, preferably less than 25 and even more preferably less than 20; R1 represents a hydrogen atom or a straight-chain or branched C1-C6 alkyl group (preferably methyl), and R3 represents a straight-chain or branched alkyl group containing m carbon atoms (m ranges from 6 to 30 and preferably from 10 to 25 carbon atoms).

[0157] These polymers are preferably partially or completely neutralized by inorganic bases (such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, or ammonia), or by organic bases (such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, and triethanolamine, aminomethylpropanediol, and N-methylglucosamine), basic amino acids (such as arginine and lysine), and mixtures thereof.

[0158] When the polymer is crosslinked, the crosslinking agent can be selected from polyene unsaturated compounds commonly used for crosslinking polymers obtained by free radical polymerization.

[0159] As crosslinking agents, examples include divinylbenzene, diallyl ether, dipropylene glycol diallyl ether, polydiethylene glycol diallyl ether, triethylene glycol divinyl ether, hydroquinone diallyl ether, ethylene glycol or tetraethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate, trimethylolpropane triacrylate, methylenebisacrylamide, methylenebismethylacrylamide, triallylamine, triallyl cyanurate, diallyl maleate, tetraallyl ethylenediamine, tetraallyloxyethane, trimethylolpropane diallyl ether, allyl (meth)acrylate, allyl ethers of sugar series alcohols, or other allyl ethers or vinyl ethers of polyfunctional alcohols, as well as allyl esters of phosphoric acid and / or vinylphosphonic acid derivatives, or mixtures of these compounds.

[0160] According to one embodiment, the crosslinking agent is selected from methylenebisacrylamide, allyl methacrylate, or trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA). The degree of crosslinking typically ranges from 0.01 mol% to 10 mol% relative to the polymer, and more particularly from 0.2 mol% to 2 mol%.

[0161] As a polymer derived from AMPS that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, reference may be made to one of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) or its sodium or ammonium salt, combined with (meth)acrylic acid and an oxyethyleneized C-type polymer containing 6 to 25 oxyethylene groups. 10 To C 20Polymers prepared from esters of alcohols.

[0162] According to one embodiment, the polymer derived from AMPS is AMPS and C-methacrylic acid. 16 -C 18 copolymer of alkyl esters, the methacrylic acid C 16 -C 18 Alkyl esters contain 6 to 25 oxyethylene groups, derived from methacrylic acid or methacrylate and C oxyethyleneized by 6 to 25 mol of ethylene oxide. 16 -C 18 Alcohols are obtained. Amphiphilic polymers can also be AMPS and C-methacrylic acid. 12 -C 14 copolymer of alkyl esters, the methacrylic acid C 12 -C 14 Alkyl esters contain 6 to 25 oxyethylene groups, derived from methacrylic acid or methacrylate and C oxyethyleneized by 6 to 25 mol of ethylene oxide. 12 -C 14 Alcohols were obtained. Of particular note:

[0163] - From 92.65 mol% AMPS and 7.35 mol% C-methacrylic acid containing 8 oxyethylene groups 16 -C 18 Non-crosslinked copolymers obtained from alkyl esters (Genapol T-080), such as those marketed by Clariant under the name Aristoflex® SNC,

[0164] - From 91.5 mol% AMPS and 8.5 mol% C-methacrylic acid containing 7 oxyethylene groups 12 -C 14 Non-crosslinked copolymers obtained from alkyl esters (Genapol LA-070), such as those marketed by Clariant under the name Aristoflex® LNC, and

[0165] - Its mixture.

[0166] As a type of crosslinked AMPS polymer, more specific examples include the one marketed by Clariant under the name Aristoflex® HMS, which is a crosslinked AMPS / ethoxylated (25 EO) stearyl methacrylate copolymer; or the one marketed by Clariant under the name Aristoflex® HMB, which is a crosslinked AMPS / ethoxylated (25 EO) betaine methacrylate copolymer. Mixtures of these polymers may also be used.

[0167] Other polymers derived from AMPS may also be specifically mentioned as those AMPS copolymers that can be used in compositions according to the invention:

[0168] - Copolymers of AMPS and vinylpyrrolidone or vinylformamide, such as those used in commercial products sold by Clariant under the names Aristoflex® AVC (INCI: ammonium acryloyl dimethyl taurate / VP copolymer), Aristoflex® AVS (INCI: sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate / VP crosspolymer), or Aristoflex® AVL (INCI: caprylic / capric triglyceride (and) ammonium acryloyl dimethyl taurate / VP copolymer (and) trilauryl polyether-4 phosphate (and) polyglycerol-2-sesquiisostearate, neutralized, for example with sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide;

[0169] - Copolymers of AMPS and sodium acrylate, such as AMPS / sodium acrylate copolymers, as used in commercial products sold by Sepinov under the name Simulgel™ EG (INCI name: Sodium acrylate / sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer (and) isohexadecane (and) polysorbate 80) or Sepinov under the trade name Sepinov™ EMT 10 (CTFA name: Hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer);

[0170] - Copolymers of AMPS and hydroxyethyl acrylate, such as AMPS / hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymers, as used in commercial products sold by Sepinov under the name Simulgel™ NS (INCI name: Hydroxyethyl acrylate / Sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer and squalane and polysorbate 60), or commercial products sold by Sepinov under the name Sepinov™ EMT 10 (INCI name: Hydroxyethyl acrylate / Sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer); and

[0171] - Copolymers of AMPS and biopolymers, such as copolymers of AMPS and polysaccharides, such as commercial products sold by Clariant under the name Aristoflex® Eco T (INCI name: Caesalpinia spinosa gum / AMPS ammonium crosslinker).

[0172] AMPS polymers and copolymers may be present in the compositions according to the invention in an amount between 0.1% and 10% by weight of solids relative to the total weight of the composition, particularly between 0.1% and 2.5% by weight, and more particularly between 0.5% and 1.5% by weight. The AMPS polymers have molar masses, for example, ranging from 50,000 g / mol to 10,000,000 g / mol, particularly from 80,000 g / mol to 8,000,000 g / mol, and more particularly from 100,000 g / mol to 7,000,000 g / mol.

[0173] 3) Heterogeneous polyholosides

[0174] According to the present invention, the term "heterouniform heteropolysaccharide" should be understood to mean a polymer composed of a combination of different monosaccharides or monosaccharides having the same empirical chemical formula but different geometric configurations (e.g., D and L isomers).

[0175] These polymers are different from polyheterosides (which consist of one or more monosaccharides and non-carbohydrate components) and homogeneous heteropolysaccharides (which are produced by a combination of the same monosaccharides).

[0176] Therefore, the heterogeneous heteropolysaccharide according to the present invention consists only of monosaccharides and is produced by a combination of at least two different monosaccharides.

[0177] The heteropolysaccharides according to the present invention may consist of 2 to 10 monosaccharides (commonly referred to as oligosaccharides), or more than 10 monosaccharides (commonly referred to as heteropolysaccharides).

[0178] The monosaccharides present in the heteropolysaccharides according to the invention can be selected from all conceivable monosaccharides of natural or synthetic origin, and especially such as:

[0179] i. Aldose, such as:

[0180] - Pentoses: such as ribose, arabinose, xylose, or celery sugar.

[0181] - Hexoses: such as glucose, fucose, mannose, or galactose.

[0182] ii. Ketooses, fructoses,

[0183] iii. Deoxymonosaccharides, such as rhamnose, digitalis syrup, canna syrup, or oleander syrup.

[0184] iv. Monosaccharide derivatives, such as uronic acids, like mannitol, guluronic acid, galacturonic acid, or glucuronic acid, or sugar alcohols, like mannitol or sorbitol.

[0185] The heteropolysaccharides according to the invention can be branched or linear. They can also be substituted, for example, by fatty chains (especially those containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms).

[0186] Furthermore, the heteropolysaccharides according to the present invention can be alginates (polymannuronates and guluronates), such as sodium alginate, propylene glycol alginate, calcium alginate, or glycerol alginate.

[0187] However, the heterogeneous heteropolysaccharide preferably contains at least one fucose unit, which may be present in an amount of 10%-90% by weight, preferably 15%-35% by weight, relative to the weight of the heteropolysaccharide solid.

[0188] Specifically, the heteropolysaccharide according to the invention may comprise fucose, galactose, and galacturonic acid units, and may, for example, comprise a linear sequence of α-L-fucose, α-D-galactose, and galacturonic acid. In this case, when dissolved in water at a concentration of about 1% by weight, it preferably exhibits a viscosity of 800-1200 mPa·s (Brookfield LV31 viscosity, 12 rpm, at 30°C). This heteropolysaccharide is particularly available from Solabia in the form of a 1% aqueous solution under the trade name Fucogel 1000 PP® (INCI name: Biogum-1) or in the form of a 1.1% aqueous solution under the trade name Fucocert (INCI name: Biogum-1 (and) sodium levulinate (and) glyceryl caprylate (and) sodium anisinate).

[0189] The heteropolysaccharide according to the invention is preferably introduced into the composition in the form of an aqueous solution, which may contain 0.1% to 5% by weight of the heteropolysaccharide.

[0190] Heteropolysaccharides may be present in the compositions according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 10%, preferably from 0.1% to 2%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, on a solid basis.

[0191] 4) Glyceryl acrylate polymers

[0192] These glycerol acrylate polymers are specifically selected from copolymers of glycerol acrylate and acrylic acid. Such copolymers are specifically marketed by Guardian Laboratories or Ashland under the names Lubrajel® MS, Lubrajel® CG, Lubrajel® DV, Lubrajel® NP, Lubrajel® Oil, Lubrajel® Oil BG, Lubrajel® PF, Lubrajel® TW, and Lubrajel® WA. Preferably, Lubrajel® MS is used.

[0193] The glycerol acrylate polymer may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 10%, preferably from 0.1% to 2%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, on a solid basis.

[0194] 5) Polysaccharides, In particular, polysaccharides produced by microorganisms, polysaccharides isolated from algae, and polysaccharides from higher plants.

[0195] The polysaccharides according to the present invention can be selected from:

[0196] - Algal extracts such as alginates, carrageenan, agar, and mixtures thereof. Examples of carrageenan include κ-carrageenan, and particularly compounds marketed by Cargill under the names Satiagum UTC30® and Satiagum UTC10®; as alginates, sodium alginate marketed by ISP under the name Kelcosol®, by Danisco under the name Sobalg PH 460, or by Nisshinbo Chemical under the name Flavikafine™ S;

[0197] - Gum, such as xanthan gum, guar gum and its nonionic derivatives (hydroxypropyl guar gum), gum arabic, konjac gum, mannan gum, tragacanth gum, Indian gum, black privet gum, locust bean gum, and microbial polysaccharide gums (such as stearin or xanthan gum); as examples, guar gum sold by Solvay under the name Jaguar HP 105®; konjac mannan gum® (1% glucomannan) sold by GfN; Kelco-Care™ (INCI name: Sphingomonas fermentation extract) sold by Lubrizol; Solagum™ TARA 38553F (INCI name: Amygdalin) sold by Seppicco; and Kelcogel® CG LA (INCI name: Gellan gum) sold by CP Kelco.

[0198] - Modified or unmodified starches, such as those derived from grains (e.g., wheat, corn, or rice), vegetables (e.g., yellow peas), tubers (e.g., potatoes or cassava), cassava starch; dextrins, such as corn dextrin; as examples, one might specifically mention rice starch Remy DR I® (INCI name: Oryza Sativa (rice) starch) sold by Remy; maize starch B® (INCI name: corn starch) sold by Roquette; modified corn starch Dry-Flo® AF (INCI name: modified corn starch) sold by AkzoNobel (Nouryon); potato starch Stärkina™ Natural (INCI name: Solanum Tuberosum) sold by Agrana Stärke; and starches produced by Nouryon under the name Structure. Solanace® sells potato starch modified with 2-chloroethylaminodipropionic acid and neutralized with sodium hydroxide; natural tapioca starch powder sold by Nourion under the name Tapioca Pure®; StarDesign™ Power starch (INCI name: sodium starch octenyl succinate (and) hydroxypropyl starch phosphate) sold by Cargill; and dextrin extracted from corn under the name Index® from National Starch.

[0199] - Pectic acid and pectin, such as pectin (INCI name: pectin) marketed by CP-Kelco under the name GENU pHresh™.

[0200] - Cellulose and its derivatives, particularly alkyl- or hydroxyalkyl cellulose; methylcellulose, hydroxyalkylcellulose, ethyl hydroxyethylcellulose, or carboxymethylcellulose may be specifically mentioned. Examples include cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose from Ashland under the names Polysurf 67CS® and Natrosol Plus 330®; methyl hydroxyethyl cellulose from Sigma-Aldrich under the names Tylose® MH 300 and Tylose® MH 1000 (INCI: methyl hydroxyethyl cellulose); cellulose and cellulose gum from DKSH under the name Betafib ETD (INCI: cellulose (and) cellulose gum); cellulose gum and microcrystalline cellulose from Sensient under the name Natpure® Cellgum Plus or from DuPont under the name Avicel® PC 611 (INCI: microcrystalline cellulose (and) cellulose gum);

[0201] - Fructan, glucan, amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, pullulan, dextran, mannan, xylan, lignin, arabinogalactan, galactan, polygalacturonic acid, chitin, chitosan, glucuronic acid xylan, arabinoxylan, xyloglucan, glucomannan, arabinogalactan, mucopolysaccharides (glycosaminoglycans), such as chondroitin sulfate;

[0202] - and its mixtures.

[0203] The polysaccharide may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount between 0.01% and 2% by weight of solids relative to the total weight of the composition, particularly between 0.05% and 1% by weight, and even more particularly between 0.05% and 0.8% by weight.

[0204] Polysaccharides selected from gums (such as xanthan gum) and carrageenan are preferred. More preferably, polysaccharides selected from xanthan gum and carrageenan are used.

[0205] For aqueous compositions containing 1% xanthan gum, xanthan gum specifically has a molecular weight between 1,000,000 g / mol and 50,000,000 g / mol and a viscosity between 0.6 and 1.65 Pa·s (measured at 60 rpm on an LVT-type Brookfield viscometer at 25°C).

[0206] Xanthan gum is represented by products sold by Rhodia Chimie under the name Rhodicare, by Cargill Texturizing under the name Satiaxane™, by ADM under the name Novaxan™, and by CP-Kelzan® and Keltrol®.

[0207] The compositions according to the present invention may comprise a mixture of the various hydrophilic gelling agents mentioned above.

[0208] Therefore, according to a specific embodiment, the composition according to the invention may contain a hydrophilic gelling agent selected from the following:

[0209] - Carboxyvinyl polymers;

[0210] - Optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, particularly selected from (a) poly(2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid) polymers, more particularly homopolymers (i.e., polyAMPS, which are crosslinked and at least 90% neutralized), and (b) AMPS copolymers, more particularly selected from (i) copolymers of AMPS and acrylamide, such as crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and AMPS, (ii) copolymers derived from 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, which are or are not crosslinked and contain at least one hydrophobic group, (iii) copolymers of AMPS and vinylpyrrolidone or vinylformamide, (iv) copolymers of AMPS and sodium acrylate; (v) copolymers of AMPS and hydroxyethyl acrylate, and (vi) copolymers of AMPS and biopolymers;

[0211] - Heteropolysaccharides;

[0212] - Glyceryl acrylate polymer;

[0213] - Polysaccharides; and

[0214] - Its mixture.

[0215] According to another specific embodiment, the hydrophilic gelling agent is selected from polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, such as crosslinked and neutralized homopolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, and is specifically marketed by Clariant under the trade name Hostacerin® AMPS (INCI name: ammonium polyacrylamide dimethyl taurate).

[0216] The hydrophilic gelling agent selected from polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid may be present in an amount between 0.1% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, particularly between 0.1% and 2.5% by weight, and more particularly between 0.5% and 1.5% by weight.

[0217] According to yet another specific embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one hydrophilic gelling agent selected from polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, particularly crosslinked and neutralized homopolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, and at least one additional gelling agent particularly selected from polysaccharides, particularly as described above, and more particularly xanthan gum or carrageenan.

[0218] In particular, it has been observed that the compositions according to the invention in the form of oil-in-water emulsions can be refined in the presence of xanthan gum. In other words, the microstructure of the compositions according to the invention in the form of oil-in-water emulsions containing xanthan gum is advantageously finer compared to the compositions according to the invention in the form of oil-in-water emulsions without xanthan gum.

[0219] The additional gelling agent may be present in an amount between 0.01% and 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, particularly between 0.05% and 1% by weight, and even more particularly between 0.05% and 0.8% by weight.

[0220] Glycerides

[0221] The compositions according to the invention also contain at least one glyceride.

[0222] In one embodiment, the at least one glyceryl ester (or (poly)glyceryl ester) may be selected from glyceryl behenate, glyceryl decanoate, glyceryl cocoate, glyceryl erucic acid ester, glyceryl hydroxystearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl lanolinate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl linoleate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl palmitate lactate, glyceryl sesquioleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate citrate, glyceryl stearate lactate, or mixtures thereof. In a preferred embodiment, the at least one glyceryl ester is glyceryl stearate citrate.

[0223] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least glyceryl stearate citrate.

[0224] The amount of glycerides, and preferably glyceryl stearate and citrate, can range from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.3% to 3% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.5% to 2% by weight.

[0225] Linoleic acid

[0226] The compositions according to the invention also contain at least linoleic acid.

[0227] The amount of linoleic acid can range from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.3% to 3% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.5% to 2% by weight.

[0228] In certain embodiments, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least linoleic acid and at least one other fatty acid.

[0229] As used herein, the term "fatty acid" refers to a carboxylic acid having a long aliphatic carbon chain. In certain embodiments, the compositions according to the invention comprise, in addition to at least linoleic acid, at least one fatty acid selected from fatty acids having at least 4 carbon atoms, preferably 6 carbon atoms, and more preferably 8 carbon atoms. The at least one fatty acid is preferably selected from fatty acids containing up to 26 carbon atoms, preferably up to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably up to 22 carbon atoms. In a preferred embodiment, the at least one fatty acid may be selected from C4-C6 fatty acids. 26 Fatty acids, preferably selected from C6-C 24 Fatty acids, and more preferably selected from C8-C 22 Fatty acids. Fatty acids can be selected from saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched fatty acids. Therefore, fatty acids can be selected from saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched C4-C fatty acids. 26 C6-C is preferred. 24 And more preferably C8-C 22 fatty acid.

[0230] In certain embodiments, one or more straight-chain or branched monounsaturated fatty acids may be used as straight-chain or branched unsaturated fatty acids. Straight-chain or branched unsaturated fatty acids may be generated by at least one carbon-carbon double bond or one carbon-carbon triple bond.

[0231] Saturated fatty acids used in the compositions according to the invention may include, for example, caprylic acid (C8), nonanoic acid (C9), and decanoic acid (C1). 10 ), Lauric acid (C 12 ), myristic acid (C 14 ), pentadecanoic acid (C 15 Palmitic acid (C) 16 ), heptadecanoic acid (C 17 ), stearic acid (C 18 ), isostearic acid (C 18 ), nonadecanoic acid (C 19 ), arachidic acid (C 20), betaine (C 22 ) and lignosulfonic acid (C 24 ).

[0232] The unsaturated fatty acids used in the compositions according to the invention may include, for example, myristic acid (C... 14 Palmitoleic acid (C) 16 ), oleic acid (C 18 ), linoleic acid (C 18 ), linolenic acid (C 18 ), oleic acid (C 18 ), Arachidonic acid (C 20 ), eicosenoic acid (C 20 ), erucic acid (C 22 ) and nervonic acid (C 24 ).

[0233] In certain embodiments, the compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to at least linoleic acid, at least one fatty acid selected from unsaturated fatty acids, and preferably unsaturated C8-C. 22 Fatty acids, and more preferably unsaturated C8-C fatty acids having one, two, or three carbon-carbon double bonds. 22 Fatty acids. In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, in addition to at least linoleic acid, at least one fatty acid selected from the group consisting of linolenic acid, oleic acid, and mixtures thereof. In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, in addition to at least linoleic acid, at least one fatty acid selected from saturated fatty acids, and preferably saturated C8-C. 22 Fatty acids. In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, in addition to at least linoleic acid, at least one fatty acid selected from the group consisting of palmitic acid, stearic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0234] In certain embodiments, the compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to at least linoleic acid, at least one fatty acid selected from saturated fatty acids, and preferably saturated C8-C fatty acids. 22 Fatty acids, and at least one selected from unsaturated fatty acids, preferably unsaturated C8-C. 22 Fatty acids. In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, in addition to at least linoleic acid, at least one fatty acid selected from the group consisting of palmitic acid, stearic acid, linolenic acid, oleic acid, and mixtures thereof. In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least linoleic acid and at least linolenic acid. In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, in addition to at least linoleic acid, at least a mixture consisting of palmitic acid, stearic acid, linolenic acid, and oleic acid.

[0235] In a particular embodiment, a mixture of fatty acids used in the composition according to the invention and comprising at least linoleic acid and linolenic acid is referred to as “vitamin F”. In a particular embodiment, the term “vitamin F” should be understood to mean a mixture of multiple fatty acids, which includes at least linoleic acid and linolenic acid, and may include other saturated or unsaturated fatty acids as described above, and is preferably selected from oleic acid, palmitic acid and stearic acid.

[0236] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of fatty acids (INCI name: linoleic acid (and) oleic acid (and) palmitic acid (and) linolenic acid) sold by Stéarinerie Dubois under the trade name "DUB Omega 8".

[0237] When the composition according to the invention contains linolenic acid, the amount of linolenic acid may range from 0.001% to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 0.5% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.01% to 0.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0238] Aqueous phase

[0239] As mentioned above, the compositions according to the invention may comprise at least one physiologically acceptable aqueous phase. The term "physiologically acceptable" should be understood to mean a medium compatible with keratin materials.

[0240] The composition according to the invention is an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion. The aqueous phase is the continuous phase.

[0241] The compositions according to the invention preferably comprise an aqueous phase, which contains water and optionally one or more polyols. According to specific embodiments, the aqueous phase contains at least one polyol.

[0242] According to one embodiment, the aqueous phase is present in an amount between 65% and 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 70% and 92% by weight, and more preferably between 74% and 82% by weight.

[0243] polyols

[0244] For the purposes of this invention, the term "polyol" means:

[0245] - A saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched hydrocarbon chain containing at least two hydroxyl functional groups; or

[0246] - A saturated, straight-chain or branched hydrocarbon chain in which one or more carbon atoms are replaced by oxygen atoms and it contains at least two hydroxyl functional groups, such as polyethylene glycol (PEG) containing 4 to 8 ethylene glycol units.

[0247] Preferably, the polyol has a saturated, straight-chain or branched hydrocarbon chain.

[0248] Advantageously, the polyol contains 2 to 20, preferably 2 to 10, carbon atoms and 2 to 12, and even more preferably 2 to 8, hydroxyl functional groups.

[0249] Polyols can be selected from diols, such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, isopentyl glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol, diglycerol, erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabinitol, arabinitol, sorbitol, euonymus alcohol, maltitol, and panthenol.

[0250] Among these polyols, glycerol, caprylyl glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butanediol, 1,3-propanediol, and mixtures thereof are preferred.

[0251] According to one embodiment, the polyol comprises 2 to 12 hydroxyl functional groups, preferably 2 to 8 hydroxyl functional groups, and is particularly selected from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, isopentyl glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol, diglycerol, erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabinitol, arabinitol, sorbitol, euonymus alcohol, maltitol, panthenol, and mixtures thereof, preferably glycerol, caprylyl glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, and mixtures thereof, and even more preferably glycerol, caprylyl glycol, and mixtures thereof.

[0252] According to a specific embodiment, the polyol may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount greater than or equal to 3% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 5% by weight, and even more preferably greater than or equal to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0253] According to another specific embodiment of the invention, the amount of polyol may range from, for example, 0.1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably 1% to 18% by weight, more preferably 5% to 16% by weight, and more preferably 8% to 15% by weight.

[0254] Fat phase

[0255] As mentioned above, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one fatty phase. The fatty phase may contain at least one cosmetic oil. It may also contain at least one other fatty substance.

[0256] The term "oil" should be understood to mean oil produced at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013 × 10⁻⁶). 5 Pa) is a liquid, non-aqueous compound that is immiscible with water.

[0257] The term "immiscible" should be understood to mean that, under the temperature and pressure conditions mentioned above, the mixing of equal amounts of water and oil after stirring does not produce a stable solution containing only one phase. If necessary, observe, by eye or by phase contrast microscopy, 100 g of the mixture obtained after thorough stirring in a Rayneri mixer to create eddies within the mixture (as indicated, 200 to 1000 rpm), wherein the resulting mixture has been allowed to stand in a closed flask at ambient temperature for 24 hours prior to observation.

[0258] As an oil that can be used in the compositions of the present invention, examples may be mentioned, such as:

[0259] - Hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing 4 to 10 carbon atoms, such as triglycerides of heptanoic acid or caprylic acid, or others, such as corn oil, soybean oil, pumpkin seed oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, almond oil, macadamia nut oil, aurora oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric triglycerides (such as those sold by Diebold or by Dynamit Nobel under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818) or shea butter;

[0260] - Synthetic esters and ethers, particularly fatty acid esters and ethers, such as oils of formula R1COOR2 and R1OR2, where R1 represents a fatty acid residue containing 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a branched or unbranched hydrocarbon chain containing 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanoate (which is C1COOR2), etc. 16 and C 18 Mixtures of alkyl esters and isononanoic acid esters; isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucic acid, or isostearate; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearate lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearate malate, or triisoceryl citrate; fatty alcohol heptanoates, octanoates, or decanoates; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, and diethylene glycol diisonononate; and pentaerythritol esters, such as pentaerythritol tetraisostearate or dipentaerythritol pentaisonononate;

[0261] - Straight-chain or branched hydrocarbons of mineral, plant, or synthetic origin, such as volatile or non-volatile paraffin oils and their derivatives; alkanes containing 10 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 20 carbon atoms, such as, in particular, C... 15-19Alkanes, such as those marketed by Seppic Co. under the name Emogreen L19; branched hydrocarbon oils having 10 to 30 carbon atoms, such as isohexadecane, isododecane, isoalkanes, and mixtures thereof; liquid petrolatum; polydecene; polyisobutylene; squalane; hydrogenated polyisobutylene, such as Parleam® products marketed by Nippon Oil Fats, Panalane H-300 E marketed by Amoco, Viseal 20000 marketed by Synteal, Rewopal PIB 1000 marketed by Witco, or Parleam Lite marketed by NOF Corporation. Among the preferred synthetic sources of straight-chain or branched hydrocarbons, squalane, an oil produced by the hydrogenation of squalene, may be mentioned; or

[0262] - Its mixture.

[0263] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one oil selected from straight-chain or branched hydrocarbons of mineral, plant, or synthetic origin, preferably selected from alkanes containing 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 20 carbon atoms, such as, in particular, C44 hydrocarbons. 15-19 Alkanes.

[0264] The amount of oil in the composition can range from, for example, 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 10% relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0265] Preferably, the compositions according to the invention are substantially silicone-free. The term "silicone" should be specifically understood to mean silicone oil, such as volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) having linear or cyclic silicone chains, which are liquid or paste at ambient temperature, particularly cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (cyclic polymethylsiloxanes) such as cyclohexylsiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes containing alkyl, alkoxy, or phenyl groups at the side chains or ends of the silicone chains, these groups having 2 to 24 carbon atoms; or phenylenedilicates, such as phenyl polytrimethylsiloxane, phenyl polydimethylsiloxane, phenyl(trimethylsiloxy)diphenylsiloxane, diphenyl polydimethylsiloxane, diphenyl(methyldiphenyl)trisiloxane, (2-phenylethyl)trimethylsiloxysilicate, or polymethylphenylsiloxane.

[0266] According to a specific embodiment, the composition contains less than 2% silicone oil by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 1.0% silicone oil by weight, more preferably less than 0.5% silicone oil by weight, and more preferably does not contain silicone oil.

[0267] According to one embodiment, the fatty phase is present in an amount between 5% and 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, particularly between 8% and 30% by weight, and even more particularly between 10% and 25% by weight.

[0268] additive

[0269] The compositions according to the invention may additionally contain at least one additive, which is particularly selected from the additives detailed below.

[0270] Of course, additives may be selected to be present in the compositions according to the invention so as not to adversely affect the properties of the composition (especially in terms of stability and sensory properties).

[0271] Preferably, the additives suitable for use in this invention are natural or of natural origin.

[0272] Surfactant

[0273] Advantageously, the compositions according to the invention may additionally contain at least one cosmetic active agent.

[0274] As cosmetic active agents, examples that can be mentioned include moisturizers, bleaching agents, desquamating agents, humectants, anti-aging agents, oil-controlling agents, healing agents, antibacterial agents, vitamins and their derivatives, antioxidant compounds, sunscreens and mixtures thereof.

[0275] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one moisturizing active agent.

[0276] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one moisturizing active agent.

[0277] Cosmetic Composition

[0278] The compositions used according to the present invention can be any presentation commonly used in the cosmetics field.

[0279] It can be more or less fluid and can have the appearance of a white or colored cream, ointment, or lotion.

[0280] More specifically, the compositions according to the invention are intended for application to the skin. The skin may be the skin of the face and / or body, particularly the skin of the face and / or neck and / or hands.

[0281] The compositions according to the invention may contain any of the ingredients commonly used in the contemplated topical applications and administrations.

[0282] Preferably, such a composition is not intended to be rinsed off after application.

[0283] Uses and methods

[0284] According to one aspect of the invention, the present invention relates to a cosmetic method for caring for or treating keratin materials, particularly skin, the method comprising at least one step of applying a composition as defined in the present invention to said keratin material.

[0285] According to yet another aspect of the invention, the invention relates to the use of compositions as defined above in the cosmetic field, and particularly to the use for caring for and / or protecting the skin of the body or face.

[0286] According to another aspect thereof, the present invention relates to the use of compositions as defined above in the cosmetic field, and particularly to the prevention and / or treatment of symptoms associated with dryness problems on keratin materials, and / or to the repair and strengthening of the skin barrier.

[0287] The cosmetic uses and methods considered according to the present invention are non-therapeutic.

[0288] The cosmetic uses or methods of the present invention are carried out by topical application of the composition according to the present invention.

[0289] Topical application includes applying a cosmetic composition externally to the skin using techniques commonly used with these compositions.

[0290] According to a variant of the embodiment, the composition according to the invention is applied to a skin area that has been previously cleaned with a washing solution.

[0291] Throughout this specification (including the claims), unless otherwise specified, the terms "between... and..." and "ranging from... to..." shall be understood to mean including the limit.

[0292] The following examples illustrate the invention but do not limit its scope.

[0293] In this example, the amount of a component of the composition is expressed as a percentage of the starting material, or more specifically as the weight of the starting material relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0294] In this example, unless otherwise specified, the temperature is ambient temperature (20°C) and expressed in degrees Celsius, and the pressure is atmospheric pressure unless otherwise specified. Example

[0295] Materials and methods

[0296] Stability measurement

[0297] The stability of the composition was evaluated according to the following method:

[0298] 1) Perform the following preliminary checks on the test composition at least 16 hours after production:

[0299] - Sensory inspection (appearance, color, odor);

[0300] - pH measurement (at 25°C): Measurement performed using a pH meter;

[0301] - Viscosity measurement (at 25°C): Measurements were taken using a viscometer, such as the Rheomat RM 100 Plus from Lamy Rheology (equipped with a thermostatic bath), with values ​​recorded at 30 seconds and 10 minutes.

[0302] - Centrifuged at 900 g for 1 hour, followed by verification that no signs of instability (such as salting out, sedimentation, emulsification, etc.) were observed; and

[0303] - The crushed composition between the slide and coverslip was sampled under unpolarized and polarized light at a magnification of ×100 (100x) and observed under a microscope. The characterization of the observation was particularly carried out by evaluating the fineness of the emulsion, the network structure in the center, the homogeneity of the emulsion, the edges, and the anisotropy or isotropy.

[0304] 2) The test composition was then stored for 2 months at different temperatures, particularly at 4°C, at ambient temperature (denoted as AT), at 45°C, and at 55°C. The temperature can be adjusted, for example by using an oven, especially when the temperature is equal to 45°C or 55°C, such as using Firlabo's Bio brand concept, or by using a refrigerator, especially when the temperature is equal to 4°C.

[0305] 3) After storing under the above conditions for 1 month and 2 months, conduct inspections. Specifically, the inspections performed are as follows:

[0306] - Macroscopic appearance: Inspect the visual appearance and texture (including consistency) and confirm that there are no signs of instability, such as clumping or softening, particle appearance, salting out, emulsification, phase merging, film formation, mottled appearance, or exudation.

[0307] - Color: Evaluate the potential changes in sample color compared to the 4°C sample (referred to as the "control" sample);

[0308] - Odor: Evaluate the potential changes in the odor of the sample compared to the 4°C sample (referred to as the "control" sample);

[0309] - Microscopic appearance: Evaluate the potential changes in the microscopic appearance of unpolarized and polarized light (magnification × 100).

[0310] - pH, only for the pH of the sample after 2 months at AT and 2 months at 45°C; and

[0311] - Viscosity, only for the sample after 2 months at AT and 2 months at 45°C.

[0312] The more closely the composition is examined after 1 month and / or 2 months of storage compared to an examination performed more than 16 hours after manufacturing, the more stable the composition can be considered. In particular, a composition is considered stable if it remains smooth and homogeneous, without salting out or phase separation, and if changes in color, odor, viscosity, pH, and microstructure are acceptable.

[0313] Scheme for preparing the composition

[0314] The compositions F1 and C1 according to the present invention, as shown in Table 1 below, were prepared by the following methods:

[0315] The components of phase A are mixed under gentle stirring, and the mixture is heated to 65°C-70°C;

[0316] Add the components of phase B (at approximately 20°C–30°C) to phase A and emulsify phase B in phase A for 5 minutes; then dilute with water (at approximately 20°C–30°C) while continuing emulsification for 5 minutes.

[0317] Cool the mixture with moderate stirring;

[0318] Phase C was then added at a temperature of < 30°C, and the components were mixed with vigorous stirring. The resulting mixture was then allowed to cool with gentle stirring.

[0319] Example 1

[0320] Compositions F1 and C1 (outside of this invention) according to the above preparation method are obtained.

[0321] [Table 1]

[0322]

[0323] result:

[0324] During the evaluation of the stability and color of compositions F1 and C1, more significant differences in color change were observed between the two compositions after 2 months at 45°C or even 7 days at 55°C. Specifically, after 2 months at 45°C, composition F1, containing glyceryl stearate citrate, did not undergo any color change compared to composition C1, which does not contain glyceryl stearate citrate. Composition C1 exhibited a strong rose-colored appearance and therefore cannot be considered stable over time.

[0325] Conclusion: Compared with compositions that do not contain this compound, compositions that additionally contain glyceryl stearate citrate exhibit limited or no color change after 2 months at 45°C and correspond to stable emulsions.

[0326] Example 2 - Consumer Testing

[0327] Composition F1 was tested on different consumer groups (e.g., women aged 25 to 40 and 41 to 75). The results obtained show that the composition according to the invention exhibits the following advantages:

[0328] - Satisfying appearance, fluid texture, easy to apply and spread;

[0329] - After application, the composition leaves a fresh, moisturizing, nourishing, soft, and comfortable feeling; and

[0330] - The comfortable and refreshing feeling persists after application and throughout the day, keeping the skin hydrated and soft, allowing it to breathe freely without feeling stuffy, oily, or sticky, and avoiding tightness, dryness, flaking, and roughness.

Claims

1. A composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, particularly a cosmetic composition, especially for caring for keratin materials, characterized in that... It includes: - At least one fatty phase, - At least one emulsifier, said emulsifier comprising at least one phospholipid. - At least one hydrophilic gelling agent, - At least one glyceride, and - At least linoleic acid.

2. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that, The phospholipids are selected from: - Natural phospholipids, especially egg lecithin, soybean lecithin, or sphingomyelin. - Chemically or enzymatically modified phospholipids, especially hydrogenated lecithin, and - Synthetic phospholipids, especially dipalmitoylphosphatidylcholine, Especially hydrogenated lecithin.

3. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that, The phosphorus is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 2% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that, The phospholipids are present in mixtures with fatty alcohols, such as alcohols having 12 to 16 carbon atoms, and / or with fatty acids, such as palmitic acid.

5. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that, The hydrophilic gelling agent is selected from: - Carboxyvinyl polymers; - Optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, particularly selected from (a) poly(2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid) polymers, more particularly homopolymers, i.e., polyAMPS, which are crosslinked and at least 90% neutralized, and (b) AMPS copolymers, more particularly selected from (i) copolymers of AMPS and acrylamide, such as crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and AMPS, (ii) copolymers derived from 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, which are or are not crosslinked and contain at least one hydrophobic group, (iii) copolymers of AMPS and vinylpyrrolidone or vinylformamide, (iv) copolymers of AMPS and sodium acrylate; (v) copolymers of AMPS and hydroxyethyl acrylate, and (vi) copolymers of AMPS and biopolymers; - Heteropolysaccharides; - Glyceryl acrylate polymer; - Polysaccharides; and - Its mixture.

6. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that, The hydrophilic gelling agent is selected from polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, such as crosslinked and neutralized homopolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, which may be present in an amount between 0.1% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, particularly between 0.1% and 2.5% by weight, and more particularly between 0.5% and 1.5% by weight.

7. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that, The composition comprises at least one hydrophilic gelling agent and at least one additional gelling agent, the hydrophilic gelling agent being selected from polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, particularly crosslinked and neutralized homopolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid; the gelling agent being selected from polysaccharides, particularly xanthan gum or carrageenan; the additional gelling agent is also more particularly present in an amount between 0.01% and 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, particularly between 0.05% and 1% by weight, and even more particularly between 0.05% and 0.8% by weight.

8. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that, The fatty phase is present in an amount between 5% and 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 8% and 30% by weight, and even more particularly between 10% and 25% by weight.

9. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising less than 2.0% silicone oil by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 1.0% silicone oil by weight, preferably less than 0.5% silicone oil by weight, and more preferably free of silicone oil.

10. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims further comprises at least one fatty acid selected from saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched C4-C fatty acids. 26 C6-C is preferred. 24 And more preferably C8-C 22 fatty acid.

11. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The amount of linoleic acid ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.3% to 3% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.5% to 2% by weight.

12. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that, The glycerol ester (or (poly)glycerol ester) may be selected from glycerol behenate, glycerol decanoate, glycerol cocoate, glycerol erucic acid ester, glycerol hydroxystearate, glycerol isostearate, glycerol lanolinate, glycerol laurate, glycerol linoleate, glycerol myristate, glycerol oleate, glycerol palmitate lactate, glycerol sesquioleate, glycerol stearate, glycerol stearate citrate, glycerol stearate lactate, or mixtures thereof, and preferably glycerol stearate citrate.

13. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that, The amount of glycerides ranges from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.3% to 3% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.5% to 2% by weight.

14. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising an aqueous phase of 65% to 95% by weight, preferably 70% to 92% by weight, and more preferably 72% to 82% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

15. A non-therapeutic cosmetic method for treating keratin materials, particularly skin, the cosmetic method comprising at least one step of applying a composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims to the keratin material.

16. Use of the composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 14 in the field of non-therapeutic cosmetic procedures, and particularly for the care of the skin of the body or face.

17. Use of the composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 14 in the non-therapeutic cosmetic field, and particularly for the prevention and / or treatment of symptoms associated with dryness problems on keratin materials, and / or for the repair and strengthening of the skin barrier.

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