Whitening and antioxidant composition as well as application and preparation method thereof

Abstract

The invention discloses a whitening anti-oxidation composition which comprises pterostilbene and phenylethyl resorcinol, and the weight ratio of the pterostilbene to the phenylethyl resorcinol is 1: (0.6-1.5). According to the whitening anti-oxidation composition, the anti-oxidation and whitening effects can be remarkably improved, the anti-oxidation and whitening effects are good, and meanwhile the stability is high. According to the invention, lipidosome is adopted for coating, so that the formed cosmetic raw material has better stability and is not easy to yellow in stability detection, and the content retention effect of pterostilbene and phenylethyl resorcinol is better. The composition is applied to whitening and anti-oxidation products and is small in irritation and high in use stability, the whitening and anti-oxidation effects are further improved, the active oxygen removal rate reaches 68% or above, and the melanin inhibition rate reaches 88% or above.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The invention relates to the field of makeup preparations, and in particular to a whitening and antioxidant composition and an application and preparation method thereof. Background Art

[0002] Pterostilbene and phenolic compounds are commonly used whitening components with excellent antioxidant activity, but the stability of pterostilbene and phenolic compounds is poor, and excessive addition will cause skin irritation. There is no precedent for compounding in traditional processes. The existing whitening and antioxidant products have insignificant effects. Therefore, in order to further improve the whitening and antioxidant effects, it is crucial to develop a non-irritating, stable addition and excellent whitening and antioxidant composition.

[0003] Chinese invention patent CN116763702A discloses a composition for lightening deep spots and its preparation method and application, by adding a melanin-inhibiting component (Pterostilbene, Phenethyl Resorcinol, Glabridin, European Thyme) to inhibit generation, prevent transportation and accelerate metabolism, and design multiple targets for epidermal melanin to achieve the effect of reducing melanin, but the addition amount of Phenethyl Resorcinol is low, and the whitening effect is not significant. Chinese invention patent CN119112686A discloses a composition for delaying the oxidation of phenolic hydroxyl compounds, a hydrogen bond is formed between a stabilizer and a phenolic hydroxyl compound, the probability of phenolic hydroxyl being attacked by free radicals is reduced, a protective agent interrupts the attack of free radicals on phenolic hydroxyl groups, and the oxidation reaction is inhibited. Protective agent, stabilizer and protective agent form a triple protective cover to delay the oxidation of phenolic hydroxyl compounds. However, the increase in the addition amount of phenolic hydroxyl compounds will produce irritation, which is not suitable for application in cosmetics. Summary of the invention

[0004] In order to develop a non-irritating, stable addition and use, and excellent whitening and antioxidant composition, the first aspect of the present invention provides a whitening and antioxidant composition, including pterostilbene and phenethylresorcinol, wherein the weight ratio of pterostilbene to phenethylresorcinol is 1:(0.6-1.5).

[0005] As a preferred embodiment, the weight ratio of pterostilbene to phenethyl resorcinol is 1:

[0006] (0.7-1.4).

[0007] As a preferred embodiment, the weight ratio of pterostilbene to phenethyl resorcinol is 1:

[0008] (0.8-1.2).

[0009] As a preferred embodiment, the weight ratio of pterostilbene to phenethylresorcinol is 1:1.

[0010] The inventor found in the experiment that pterostilbene and polyphenol compounds have poor solubility and are prone to yellowing in extreme environments, which affects the final use of the composition. The inventor found that the compound use of pterostilbene and phenethyl resorcinol can alleviate the storage degradation caused by the poor solubility of pterostilbene and polyphenol compounds to a certain extent. The content of pterostilbene and phenethyl resorcinol does not decrease significantly after storage, and the anti-degradation effect is much better than the combination of pterostilbene and 4-butyl resorcinol. In addition, the combination of pterostilbene and phenethyl resorcinol is relatively less irritating to the skin, which is conducive to the subsequent application of the composition.

[0011] The second aspect of the present invention provides a whitening and antioxidant cosmetic raw material, which at least comprises the above-mentioned whitening and antioxidant composition.

[0012] As a preferred embodiment, in terms of weight percentage, the raw materials for preparation include 15-25% water, 45-76% oil phase, and 8.5-13.5% functional phase including the whitening and antioxidant composition.

[0013] As a preferred embodiment, the oil phase is selected from at least one of hydrogenated lecithin, glycerol, dicaprylyl carbonate, cholesterol, coconut oil, linseed oil, and camellia seed oil.

[0014] As a preferred embodiment, based on the weight percentage of the cosmetic raw materials, the oil phase includes 30-45% glycerol, 15-25% dicaprylyl carbonate, and 4-6% hydrogenated lecithin.

[0015] As a preferred embodiment, based on the weight percentage of the cosmetic raw materials, the oil phase includes 44% glycerol, 20% dicaprylyl carbonate, and 5% hydrogenated lecithin.

[0016] The inventor found in the experiment that pterostilbene and phenethyl resorcinol have certain irritation. If the amount of pterostilbene and phenethyl resorcinol added is too large, it will cause skin irritation. The present application uses liposome encapsulation to significantly improve the irritation of pterostilbene and phenethyl resorcinol on the basis of increasing the amount of pterostilbene and phenethyl resorcinol added. Glycerol and dioctyl carbonate are used in liposomes to dissolve pterostilbene and phenethyl resorcinol. Through the sustained release effect of liposomes, pterostilbene and phenethyl resorcinol can be continuously released, achieving skin non-irritation and having a long-lasting antioxidant whitening effect. Lecithin in liposomes is matched with glycerol and dioctyl carbonate to maintain the content stability of phenethyl resorcinol, and the effective content will not drop significantly after long-term storage.

[0017] As a preferred embodiment, based on the weight percentage of the cosmetic raw materials, the functional phase including the whitening and antioxidant composition includes 4-6% pterostilbene, 4-6% phenethylresorcinol, and 0.5-1.5% ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate.

[0018] As a preferred embodiment, based on the weight percentage of the cosmetic raw materials, the functional phase including the whitening and antioxidant composition includes 5% pterostilbene, 5% phenethyl resorcinol, and 1% ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate.

[0019] The third aspect of the present invention provides a method for preparing a whitening and antioxidant cosmetic raw material, comprising the following steps:

[0020] S1: pre-mix the oil phase, heat and stir at 70-90℃ until it is completely dissolved;

[0021] S2: Cool the completely dissolved oil phase to 40-50°C, add the functional phase, and stir until it is completely dissolved to obtain a mixed liquid;

[0022] S3: adding water to the mixed liquid, stirring evenly, and dispersing using a high-speed disperser to obtain colostrum;

[0023] S4 colostrum is passed through a high-pressure microfluidic nanocollider to form a stable liquid, thereby obtaining a whitening and antioxidant cosmetic raw material.

[0024] As a preferred embodiment, the whitening and antioxidant cosmetic raw material is liposomes, and the lipidation parameter of the high-pressure microfluidic nanocollider in step S4 is 25000-35000psi, and the cyclic collision is 1-5 times.

[0025] The inventor found in the experimental process that the use of liposomes to encapsulate pterostilbene and phenethyl resorcinol can improve the stability of the raw material composition, reduce yellowing under extreme environments, and have a better content retention effect on pterostilbene and phenethyl resorcinol. It is speculated that the possible reason is that pterostilbene and phenethyl resorcinol are loaded in the hollow structure of the liposome, which can isolate pterostilbene and phenethyl resorcinol from the external environment, reduce the impact of environmental acidity, temperature, and light on pterostilbene and phenethyl resorcinol, thereby improving the stability of pterostilbene and phenethyl resorcinol. In addition, the liposome encapsulation structure has a directional sustained release effect on pterostilbene and phenethyl resorcinol, which reduces the degradation of pterostilbene and phenethyl resorcinol by the external environment during storage, thereby retaining a higher content of pterostilbene and phenethyl resorcinol.

[0026] As a preferred embodiment, the dispersion frequency of the high-speed disperser in step S3 is 6000-10000 r / min, and the dispersion time is 10-20 min.

[0027] As a preferred implementation manner, the stirring rate of step S1 is 1000-2000 r / min, and the stirring rate of step S2 is 500-1000 r / min.

[0028] Compared with the prior art, the present invention has the following beneficial effects:

[0029] (1) In the whitening and antioxidant composition of the present invention, pterostilbene and phenethyl resorcinol are used in a weight ratio of 1:1, which can significantly improve the antioxidant and whitening effects, and has good antioxidant and whitening effects and high stability.

[0030] (2) The whitening and antioxidant composition of the present invention is coated with liposomes, and the resulting cosmetic raw material has good stability and is not prone to yellowing in stability testing. In addition, the content of pterostilbene and phenethylresorcinol is well retained.

[0031] (3) In the whitening and antioxidant composition of the present invention, glycerol, dioctyl carbonate and hydrogenated lecithin are used as the oil phase in the liposome, which reduces the irritation of pterostilbene and phenethyl resorcinol and increases the usage of pterostilbene and phenethyl resorcinol in the product.

[0032] (4) The whitening antioxidant composition of the present invention is encapsulated by liposomes, which improves the activity stability of pterostilbene and phenethyl resorcinol and increases the bioavailability, thereby further improving the whitening effect and achieving the highest efficiency of the biological effect of the raw materials.

[0033] (5) The whitening and antioxidant composition of the present invention is used in whitening and antioxidant products, has low irritation, high stability in use, and further improves the whitening and antioxidant effects. The active oxygen scavenging rate reaches more than 68%, and the melanin inhibition rate reaches more than 88%. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0034] Figure 1 This is a color picture of the stability test, from left to right: colorless, slightly yellow, yellow, and brownish yellow. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0035] Example 1

[0036] A whitening antioxidant composition comprises pterostilbene and phenethylresorcinol in a weight ratio of 1:1.

[0037] A whitening and anti-oxidation cosmetic raw material, wherein the raw materials include 20% water, 69% oil phase and 11% effective phase including a whitening and anti-oxidation composition, calculated by weight percentage.

[0038] The oil phase comprises 44% glycerol, 20% dicaprylyl carbonate and 5% hydrogenated lecithin.

[0039] The efficacy phase including the whitening antioxidant composition includes 5% pterostilbene, 5% phenethylresorcinol and 1% ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate.

[0040] A method for preparing a whitening and anti-oxidation cosmetic raw material comprises the following steps:

[0041] S1: premix the oil phase, heat and stir at 80℃, 1500r / min until it is completely dissolved;

[0042] S2: Cool the completely dissolved oil phase to 45°C, add the functional phase, and stir at 800r / min until the mixture is completely dissolved to obtain a mixed liquid;

[0043] S3: adding water to the mixed liquid, stirring at 800 r / min, and dispersing using a high-speed disperser to obtain colostrum;

[0044] S4 colostrum is passed through a high-pressure microfluidic nanocollider to form a stable liquid, thereby obtaining a whitening and antioxidant cosmetic raw material.

[0045] In step S3, the dispersion frequency of the high-speed disperser is 8000 r / min, and the dispersion time is 15 min.

[0046] In step S4, the lipidation parameter of the high-pressure microfluidic nanocollider is 30,000 psi, and the collision is repeated three times.

[0047] Example 2

[0048] A whitening and antioxidant cosmetic raw material, the specific implementation method is the same as that of Example 1, except that, by weight percentage, the preparation raw materials include 24% water, 69% oil phase, and 7% effective phase including the whitening and antioxidant composition.

[0049] The efficacy phase including the whitening antioxidant composition includes 3% pterostilbene, 3% phenethylresorcinol and 1% ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate.

[0050] Example 3

[0051] A whitening and antioxidant cosmetic raw material, the specific implementation method is the same as that of Example 1, except that, by weight percentage, the preparation raw materials include 26% water, 69% oil phase, and 5% effective phase including the whitening and antioxidant composition.

[0052] The efficacy phase including the whitening antioxidant composition includes 2% pterostilbene, 2% phenethylresorcinol and 1% ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate.

[0053] Example 4

[0054] A whitening and antioxidant cosmetic raw material, the specific implementation method is the same as that of Example 1, except that, by weight percentage, the preparation raw materials include 27% water, 69% oil phase, and 4% effective phase including the whitening and antioxidant composition.

[0055] The efficacy phase including the whitening antioxidant composition includes 1.5% pterostilbene, 1.5% phenethylresorcinol and 1% ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate.

[0056] Example 5

[0057] A whitening and antioxidant cosmetic raw material, the specific implementation method is the same as that of Example 1, except that, by weight percentage, the preparation raw materials include 28% water, 69% oil phase, and 3% effective phase including a whitening and antioxidant composition.

[0058] The efficacy phase including the whitening antioxidant composition includes 1% pterostilbene, 1% phenethylresorcinol and 1% ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate.

[0059] Example 6

[0060] A whitening and antioxidant cosmetic raw material, the specific implementation method is the same as that of Example 1, except that, by weight percentage, the preparation raw materials include 29% water, 69% oil phase, and 2% effective phase including a whitening and antioxidant composition.

[0061] The efficacy phase including the whitening antioxidant composition includes 0.5% pterostilbene, 0.5% phenethylresorcinol and 1% ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate.

[0062] Comparative Example 1

[0063] A whitening antioxidant composition comprises pterostilbene and 4-butylresorcinol in a weight ratio of 1:1.

[0064] A whitening and antioxidant cosmetic raw material, the specific implementation method is the same as that of Example 1, except that phenylethyl resorcinol is replaced by 4-butyl resorcinol.

[0065] Comparative Example 2

[0066] A whitening antioxidant composition comprises pterostilbene and phenethylresorcinol in a weight ratio of 1:1.

[0067] A whitening and anti-oxidation cosmetic raw material comprises, by weight percentage, 89.6% water, 10% ethanol, 0.3% PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, 0.05% pterostilbene and 0.05% phenylethylresorcinol.

[0068] A method for preparing a whitening and anti-oxidation cosmetic raw material comprises the following steps:

[0069] Stir and mix water, ethanol, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, pterostilbene and phenethyl resorcinol until they are uniformly dissolved.

[0070] Comparative Example 3

[0071] A whitening antioxidant composition comprises pterostilbene and 4-butylresorcinol in a weight ratio of 1:1.

[0072] A whitening and antioxidant cosmetic raw material, the specific implementation method is the same as that of comparative example 2, except that phenylethyl resorcinol is replaced by 4-butyl resorcinol.

[0073] Comparative Example 4

[0074] A whitening antioxidant composition comprises pterostilbene and phenethylresorcinol in a weight ratio of 1:1.

[0075] The whitening antioxidant composition is dissolved in water, wherein the mass fraction of pterostilbene is 0.05%, and the mass fraction of phenethylresorcinol is 0.05%.

[0076] Comparative Example 5

[0077] A whitening antioxidant composition comprises pterostilbene and phenethylresorcinol in a weight ratio of 1:1.

[0078] The whitening antioxidant composition is dissolved in water, wherein the mass fraction of pterostilbene is 0.1%, and the mass fraction of phenethylresorcinol is 0.1%.

[0079] Comparative Example 6

[0080] A whitening antioxidant composition comprises pterostilbene and phenethylresorcinol in a weight ratio of 1:1.

[0081] A whitening and antioxidant cosmetic raw material, the specific implementation method is the same as that of Example 1, except that, by weight percentage, the preparation raw materials include 40% water, 49% oil phase, and 11% functional phase including a whitening and antioxidant composition.

[0082] The oil phase comprises 24% glycerol, 20% dicaprylyl carbonate and 5% hydrogenated lecithin.

[0083] The efficacy phase including the whitening antioxidant composition includes 5% pterostilbene, 5% phenethylresorcinol and 1% ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate.

[0084] Comparative Example 7

[0085] A whitening antioxidant composition comprises pterostilbene and phenethylresorcinol in a weight ratio of 1:1.

[0086] A whitening and antioxidant cosmetic raw material, the specific implementation method is the same as that of Example 1, except that, by weight percentage, the preparation raw materials include 10% water, 79% oil phase, and 11% effective phase including a whitening and antioxidant composition.

[0087] The oil phase comprises 44% glycerol, 30% dicaprylyl carbonate and 5% hydrogenated lecithin.

[0088] The efficacy phase including the whitening antioxidant composition includes 5% pterostilbene, 5% phenethylresorcinol and 1% ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate.

[0089] Comparative Example 8

[0090] A whitening antioxidant composition comprises pterostilbene and phenethylresorcinol in a weight ratio of 1:1.

[0091] A whitening and antioxidant cosmetic raw material, the specific implementation method is the same as that of Example 1, except that, by weight percentage, the preparation raw material includes 20% water, 69% oil phase, and 11% functional phase including a whitening and antioxidant composition.

[0092] The oil phase comprises 46% glycerol, 20% dicaprylyl carbonate and 3% hydrogenated lecithin.

[0093] The efficacy phase including the whitening antioxidant composition includes 5% pterostilbene, 5% phenethylresorcinol and 1% ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate.

[0094] Performance Testing

[0095] 1. Stability test: The whitening and antioxidant cosmetic raw materials prepared in Example 1, Comparative Example 1, Comparative Example 2, and Comparative Example 3 were diluted to 1 wt% aqueous solution and then placed in an environment of pH = 5 and pH = 9, respectively, and then set to 5°C, 25°C, and 40°C, respectively, and observe the color changes of the samples after storage for 0-12 weeks. The test results are shown in Table 1.

[0096] Table 1

[0097]

[0098]

[0099] 2. Content of active ingredient: Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-3 were diluted to 1 wt % aqueous solution and then tested. The content changes of pterostilbene and phenethylresorcinol in Example 1 and Comparative Example 2 during storage were measured by HPLC. The test results are shown in Table 2. The content changes of pterostilbene and phenethylresorcinol in Comparative Example 1 and Comparative Example 3 during storage were measured by HPLC. The test results are shown in Table 3.

[0100] Table 2

[0101]

[0102]

[0103] Table 3

[0104]

[0105] 3. Melanin inhibition rate experiment: Refer to T / SHRH 036-2021 "Cosmetic Melanin Inhibition Test-Zebrafish Embryo Test Method" to test the melanin inhibition effect of the samples prepared in Examples 3-6 and Comparative Examples 4-5. The negative control is clean water, and the positive control is a 2.5g / L kojic acid aqueous solution. 20 8h old zebrafish embryos are exposed to the above samples respectively. After 48h of exposure, the fish embryos are photographed under a microscope to measure the melanin signal intensity and perform statistical analysis. The test results are shown in Table 4.

[0106] 4. Antioxidant test: Refer to T / HPCIA 001-2023 "Cosmetic Anti-wrinkle and Firming Efficacy-Zebrafish Embryo Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) Scavenging Test Method" to test the antioxidant effects of samples prepared in Examples 2-6 and Comparative Examples 4-5. The negative control is water and the positive control is 0.1g / L glutathione solution. 24 48h old zebrafish embryos were exposed to the above samples respectively. After 24h of exposure, the fish embryos were stained with H2DCFDA, and the ROS signal intensity was measured by fluorescence photography and statistical analysis was performed. The test results are shown in Table 4.

[0107] Table 4

[0108] Melanin inhibition rate / % ROS clearance rate / % Negative control 0 0 Positive Control 30 15 Example 2 / 79 Example 3 99 68 Example 4 99 77 Example 5 98 69 Example 6 88 68 Comparative Example 4 74 68 Comparative Example 5 82 71

[0109] Examples 3-6 and Comparative Examples 4-5 can significantly inhibit melanin production in zebrafish embryos and have a whitening effect, but 100% of the zebrafish embryos in the samples of Examples 3-5 develop abnormally. Examples 2-6 and Comparative Examples 4-5 can significantly remove ROS in zebrafish embryos and have an antioxidant effect.

Claims

1. A whitening and antioxidant composition, characterized in that: The invention comprises pterostilbene and phenethyl resorcinol, wherein the weight ratio of the pterostilbene to the phenethyl resorcinol is 1:(0.6-1.5).

2. A whitening and anti-oxidation cosmetic raw material, characterized in that: At least comprising the whitening and antioxidant composition according to claim 1.

3. The whitening and antioxidant cosmetic raw material according to claim 2, characterized in that: In terms of weight percentage, the raw materials for the preparation include 15-25% water, 49-76% oil phase, and 8.5-13.5% functional phase including the whitening and antioxidant composition.

4. The whitening and antioxidant cosmetic raw material according to claim 3, characterized in that: The oil phase is selected from at least one of hydrogenated lecithin, glycerol, dicaprylyl carbonate, cholesterol, coconut oil, linseed oil and camellia seed oil.

5. The whitening and antioxidant cosmetic raw material according to claim 3, characterized in that: Calculated by weight percentage of the cosmetic raw materials, the oil phase comprises 30-45% glycerol, 15-25% dicaprylyl carbonate and 4-6% hydrogenated lecithin.

6. The whitening and antioxidant cosmetic raw material according to claim 3, characterized in that: Calculated by weight percentage of the cosmetic raw materials, the functional phase comprising the whitening and antioxidant composition comprises 4-6% pterostilbene, 4-6% phenethylresorcinol and 0.5-1.5% ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate.

7. A method for preparing the whitening and antioxidant cosmetic raw material according to any one of claims 3 to 6, characterized in that: The following steps are involved: S1: pre-mix the oil phase, heat and stir at 70-90℃ until it is completely dissolved; S2: Cool the completely dissolved oil phase to 40-50°C, add the functional phase, and stir until it is completely dissolved to obtain a mixed liquid; S3: adding water to the mixed liquid, stirring evenly, and dispersing using a high-speed disperser to obtain colostrum; S4 colostrum is passed through a high-pressure microfluidic nanocollider to form a stable liquid, thereby obtaining a whitening and antioxidant cosmetic raw material.

8. The method for preparing the whitening and antioxidant cosmetic raw material according to claim 7, characterized in that: The whitening and antioxidant cosmetic raw material is liposomes, and the lipidation parameter of the high-pressure microfluidic nanocollider in step S4 is 25000-35000psi, and the cyclic collision is 1-5 times.

9. The method for preparing the whitening and antioxidant cosmetic raw material according to claim 7, characterized in that: In step S3, the dispersion frequency of the high-speed disperser is 6000-10000 r / min, and the dispersion time is 10-20 min.

10. The method for preparing the whitening and antioxidant cosmetic raw material according to claim 7, characterized in that: The stirring rate of step S1 is 1000-2000 r / min, and the stirring rate of step S2 is 500-1000 r / min.

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